Sidewalk Grills

Marrakshis have perfected the art of cooked street food, traditionally the province of the working class. There are hundreds of sidewalk grills scattered throughout both the medina and Guéliz. Step up for a tasty, satisfying meal at one of these institutions; it's a priceless experience that costs next to nothing. From midday to midnight, choose from grilled minced beef, sausage, lamb chops, brochettes, Moroccan salads, and french fries, supplemented by bread, olives, and hot sauce. No credit cards, clearly.

Other Medina Grills

Restaurant Tiznit. Climb the narrow tiled stairway into this tiny little restaurant right at the edge of the Djemâa el Fna square and you can find simple, delicious food - most notably the rabbit tagine cooked with raisins. Squeeze yourself into the table at the back by the window and you get one of the best sunset views across the buzzing square below and to the Koutoubia beyond. 28, Souk el Kessabine, just past Café France, Medina, Marrakesh. 0524/42-72-04. No credit cards. Closed during Ramadan.

Haj Brik. In a row of grill cafés on a narrow side street running south off Djemâa el Fna, Haj Brik is one of the best. Everything is prepared so well that it has been in business longer than most. The menu focuses on grilled lamb chops, merguez sausages, kefta, and kidneys, each served with bread, olives, tomato salad, and hot sauce. Everything cooks on an indoor grill at the front of the shop, sending billowing smoke and smells over the diners. 39, rue Bani Marine, through arch just left of post office in Djemâa el Fna, Medina, Marrakesh. No phone. No credit cards.

Restaurant el Bahja. This small, tiled medina café next door to Marrakesh institution Haj Brik is just as popular and has almost the same food at the same prices. You can also get beef and chicken tagines and, in winter, loubia (bean stew) or spicy lentils in addition to standard grill fare. 41, rue Bani Marine, Marrakesh. 0524/44-03-43. No credit cards.