Lake Victoria

Kenya shares Africa's biggest freshwater lake with its neighbors, Uganda and Tanzania. Tanzania has the lion's share: 49%; Uganda has 45%; Kenya only 6%. The lake is so huge (68,000 square km) that it has its own weather system with unpredictable storms, squalls, and high waters just like the ocean. The dhow was first introduced to Lake Victoria by Arab slave traders, and the local Luo shipbuilders quickly adopted the shape and lateen sail. You'll see fishing fleets of white-sailed dhows all over the lake, fishing mainly for the delicious Nile perch. These fish, which can reach the size of a fully grown shark, now account for about 80% of the fish in the lake. Their presence still arouses controversy. On the one hand, they are the basis for a multimillion dollar processing and export industry; on the other, scientists say they are destroying the lake's ecosystem. Kisumu, on Lake Victoria's shore, is the main town of Western Kenya, and Kenya's third largest, although it lacks the postindependence prosperity and development of Mombasa and Nairobi. It's got a bit of a run-down feel reminiscent of some of the small towns on the Indian Ocean coast. If you're a birder, head for Ndere Island National Park (Daily 6-6 US$5) or the Kisumu Bird Sanctuary (Dawn-dusk No fee), both breeding grounds for hundreds of water birds. April to May is the best season. Mfangano Island Camp (www.governorscamp.com) and Rusinga Island lodge (www.rusinga.com) are top-of-the-range luxury lodges.