Laikipia Plateau

Amid spectacular scenery, traditional ways of pastoral life continue side by side with an abundance of free-roaming game. Comprising a series of privately owned farms and ranches in an area roughly half the size of Wales, it's rapidly becoming a major tourist destination. In 1992 the Laikipia Wildlife Forum (www.laikipia.com) was formed to combine the interests and efforts of both the privately owned ranches and the communal landowning local communities. Local communities banded together to form their own big ranches and have managed to keep up a traditional way of life as well as embracing tourism. A rewarding by-product of this development has been to foster both cultural identity and community solidarity. This is high country, with altitudes from 1,700 meters (5,577 feet) to 2,600 meters (8,530 feet), so bring those sweaters and jackets. Habitats range from arid semi-desert, scrubland, and sprawling open plains in the north and south, to the thick forests of cedar and olive trees in the east. Two rivers, the Ewaso Ng'iro and Ewasa Narok, dominate the area, which also includes the Laikipia National Reserve and the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. The area around the Laikipia National Reserve has one of the biggest and most diverse mammal populations in Kenya—only the Masai Mara can boast more game. The Big Five, including black and white rhino, are all present, plus the wide-ranging wild dogs; there's even a chance of seeing the rare aquatic sitatunga antelope. Also keep an eye out for Grevy's zebra, which is more narrowly striped than its southern cousin. It was once hunted almost to extinction for its fine desirable skin, but is reestablishing itself well in the area with a growing population. If you can, a visit to one of Kenya's last great true wilderness areas is a must before it becomes as crowded as some of the better-known reserves and parks farther south.

Samburu National Reserve

In the far north of the Plateau, north of Mount Kenya, is the remote Samburu National Reserve. It's highly regarded by experienced travelers and old Africa hands alike as perhaps the best reserve in Kenya. The drive from the foothills of Mount Kenya into the semi-desert is awesome, and where the road follows the river, you'll be treated to the unusual spectacle of riverine bush and forest on the one side, and desert on the other. Again, there's game galore, if you don't spot at least one lion, cheetah, or leopard, or even all three—in addition to giraffe, hippo, antelope, elephant, baboons, vervet monkeys, oryx, and zebra—you might want to get your eyes tested because this whole area hasn't yet become as commercialized as those along the Kenya/Tanzanian border. You'll be privy to a genuine traditional way of life as you watch the red-robed Samburu tribesmen, former kin to the Masai, bringing their cattle down to the river to drink. The lives of the Samburu, like their kinsmen, are centered round their livestock, their traditional source of wealth. After initiation, boys become morans (warriors) whose role it is to protect both humans and livestock from drought, famine, and predators. In Samburu don't be surprised to come across the native camels padding along through the arid savanna.

Unless you've lots and lots of time, however, it's not a good idea to attempt these far northern areas on your own. Choose one of the many superb private lodges instead, which will look after your transport arrangements from Nairobi. All this exclusivity and abundance of game doesn't come cheap, but it's worth spending more to experience more—your game viewing will be personal, intimate, and extremely rewarding.