Tzfat

It doesn't take long to walk all of Tzfat's Old City. Visitors can poke around the little cobbled passages that seem to lead nowhere, or linger over some minute architectural detail on a building from another time. And it's almost impossible to get lost; Yerushalayim (Jerusalem) Street is a good orientation point—it runs through the heart of the Old City, encircles the Citadel, and from there, steps lead down to the two main areas of interest, the Old Jewish Quarter and the adjacent Artists' Colony. There is no way to avoid the hilly topography, though, so do wear comfortable walking shoes. As the town is largely Orthodox, modest dress is recommended when visiting synagogues. For women, this means a longish skirt or long pants and at least a half-sleeve top; for men, long pants are appropriate.

Tzfat hibernates from October through June, when the city's artists move to their galleries in warmer parts of the country. This does not mean you should leave Tzfat out of your itinerary during those months; there is enough to occupy the curious wanderer for at least a few hours, and much of it is free. In the summer, especially during July and August, Tzfat is abuzz with activity: galleries and shops stay open late, klezmer music (Eastern European Jewish "soul music") dances around corners, and the city extends a warm welcome to everyone.