The grande dame of Israeli luxury hotels opened in 1931 and has successfully (and self-importantly) defended its title ever since. The ceilings, columns, and walls of the bustling lobby-lounge are decorated in "ancient Mesopotamian" geometrics. Airy guest rooms are elegantly orchestrated in cream and gold, with old-fashioned writing tables a gracious addition. Pricier rooms have views of the Old City, and suites have balconies facing the same direction. The landscaped pool area is a winner. An in-house French-style restaurant, La Régence, completes the picture. Pros: great pool and garden; terrific location; historic building. Cons: lingering reputation for snobbish staff; limited guest parking.
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