A gate through an old wall leads you into the stone hall of the Artists' House. The atmosphere envelops you at the door—flagstone floors, an open fire in winter, yesteryear artifacts, and a great bar. Start your exploration of modern Israeli fare with the calamari with scorched onions or the tasty beef carpaccio. Meat eaters have plenty to choose from; vegetarians have a variety of large salads (perfect to share) and a couple of pasta dishes (try the ravioli). Wonderful
mains include the richly flavored butcher's cut with bone marrow and herb butter, and the well-blended spiciness of the calamari and shrimp in ginger, chili, and sesame oil. Desserts change but are always dependably good. Wait until later in the evening if you just want to order drinks at the see-and-be-seen bar.