The name—a Hebrew literary phrase that translates roughly as "yesteryear"—is a clue to the character of the place. A tiny passageway leads to a rear courtyard and an iron stairway up to this funky restaurant and bookstore in two separate rooms on the top floor of a 19th-century house. Hosting Hebrew (and occasionally English) poetry readings and modest book parties, T'mol Shilshom has long been a popular spot with intellectuals and folks who just enjoy lingering over
a novel. No meat is served, but choose from a tempting selection of salads, pastas, and fish dishes like salmon in a white wine and fig sauce. Desserts are luscious, and the array of hot drinks is always welcome on a cold, rainy day.