The name—a Hebrew literary phrase that translates roughly as "yesteryear"—is a clue to the character of the place. A tiny passageway leads to a rear courtyard and an iron stairway, which takes you up to this funky restaurant and bookstore in two separate rooms on the top floor of a 19th-century house. Hosting Hebrew (and occasionally English) poetry readings, lectures, and modest book parties, T'mol Shilshom has long been a popular spot for folks who enjoy lingering
over a novel. No meat is served, but choose from a tempting selection of salads, pastas, and fish dishes like salmon in an orange sauce. Desserts are luscious, and the array of hot drinks served in chunky ceramic mugs is always welcome on a rainy day.