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Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite, and Italian flavors. On the Palestinian side, most restaura
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite,
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary tradition
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite, and Italian flavors. On the Palestinian side, most restaurants rely on a rich heritage of family cooking. On both sides, an elite class of chefs has begun combining the best of local ingredients with advanced cooking techniques and imaginative serving styles.
All this is to say that when you’re in Jerusalem you can enjoy the best of both worlds: hole-in-the-wall eateries brimming with aromatic stews and garlicky hummus or high-end dining rooms serving inspired and elegant riffs on the city’s flavors and produce.
Some cuisine designations are self-explanatory, but other terms may be confusing. A restaurant billing itself as "dairy" will serve meals without meat; many such places do serve fish, in addition to pasta, soup, and salads. "Oriental" usually means Middle Eastern (in contrast to Western), often meaning hummus, kebabs, and stews.
The term kosher doesn’t imply a particular style of cooking, only that the cooks followed Jewish dietary law in selecting and preparing the food. In Jerusalem, where there are many kosher standards from which to choose, the selection can be dizzying. But unless specific kosher standards govern your eating habits, don't worry. Jerusalem is home to dozens of kosher restaurants preparing excellent food. Remember that most kosher restaurants are closed for Friday dinner and Saturday lunch in observation of the Jewish Sabbath. A generous handful of nonkosher cafés, bars, and restaurants remain open all weekend.
Dress codes are pretty much nonexistent in Jerusalem's restaurants (as in the rest of Israel). People tend to dress casually—jeans are perfectly appropriate almost everywhere anytime. A modicum of neatness and modesty (trousers instead of jeans, a button-down shirt instead of a T-shirt) might be expected in the more exclusive establishments. In conservative neighborhoods, women will feel more comfortable covered up. If you brought the kids, you're in luck: nearly every Israeli restaurant is kid-friendly, and many have special menus and high chairs.
In an old stone house with a delightful back garden, 1868 is Jerusalem's most innovative, exacting kosher restaurant, on par with the city's best. Chef Yankele Turjeman combines the flavors of the city with high-quality ingredients and exquisite cooking techniques to create an unforgettable dining experience. Most of the fruits and vegetables are organic, and the menu changes monthly to incorporate the best of the season. If it's on the menu, don't miss the charcoal-grilled veal sweetbreads, served with steamed slices of baguette and pickled onion. The duck is spectacular, served with fruits of the season. The whiskey selection is endless, as is the list of local Israeli wines. Cocktails are beautifully balanced and are also served alongside tapas versions of the menu at Zuta, a jewel box of a cocktail bar at the back of the restaurant.
Despite being one of the city's best-known restaurants, Chakra still feigns anonymity: its name is nowhere in sight. It draws a lively thirtysomething crowd of hip Jerusalemites who appreciate the tasty fare from the open kitchen. The tables are arranged around the striking semicircular bar, and the patio enjoys a park view. Daily specials enhance the expansive menu, which changes every three months. Some good starters include focaccia, calamari with labane, or black tiger shrimp with chili. Try the sea bream, grilled to perfection on a mound of mashed cauliflower and wild mushrooms. The well-stocked bar includes Israeli boutique beers and bitters, along with a list of expertly balanced cocktails.
Chef Moshe Basson, repeated winner of international couscous contests, has mined the kitchens of older Jewish and Arab women to revive nearly forgotten recipes and ingredients. Grab a seat on the outside patio, adjacent to the Old City walls on one side and overlooking the picturesque Hutzot Hayotzer artists colony on the other. The appetizers are all tasty, but try the crepelike pastilla filled with duck confit and pumpkin jam, or the extraordinary stuffed mallow leaves (instead of the more conventional grape leaves). Two exquisite mains include traditional makloubeh with chicken and rice, and the clay-baked lamb with okra. Vegetarians will find plenty of options, and there are a few tasting menus if you want to try it all. Finish with unusual desserts and herbal tea. If you're in the mood, ask Basson to share some of his culinary lore.
On the edge of its namesake market, this restaurant is considered one of the best in Jerusalem, possibly the country. Celebrity chef Assaf Granit grew up in Jerusalem and pays homage to the city's colors and cacophony in his elegant dishes. You can wait for your reservation across the street at Yudaleh, a lively cocktail bar by the same owners. Once in, grab a seat at the bar to watch the exuberant chefs slice, dice, and sauté while banging on the pots and pans to the beat of zippy music. The menu changes twice daily, but nearly always includes chamshuka, a fusion of chopped meat and hummus; a creamy polenta topped with crisp asparagus, mushroom ragout, and shaved Parmesan; and a raucous dessert ceremony of ice cream flung on tables covered in aluminum foil. To enjoy the full range of flavors, order the tasting menu. Reserve at least one month in advance.
Nestled into a stone-walled garden, Mona has a working fireplace and a tree growing through the indoor section, creating a rustic setting for eminently modern Israeli cooking. Start your night with the light red tuna sashimi with chili or the award-winning crab bisque. Do not miss the beautifully prepared beef fillet with sweetbreads and purple cabbage. Vegetarians will seek refuge in various thoughtfully prepared salads. For dessert, try the sour cream and Szechuan sorbet over nectarine compote. Wait until later in the evening if you just want to order cocktails based on homemade liquor at the excellent bar. Brunch on Saturday is particularly decadent. Reservations are essential on weekends.
On the top of the Mamilla Hotel, this open-air restaurant lays claim to one of the best views of Jerusalem, and you can enjoy it from a cushioned chair as you sip spiked iced tea and dine on seared sea bass or grilled lamb chops with Swiss chard. The extensive wine list features more than 20 local boutique labels. During the Sabbath, the Rooftop serves a cold menu of salads and fish. The atmosphere is lovely and the view is unbeatable, so advance reservations are a must in summer.
Just under the Jerusalem Theatre, Talbiye is a cozy neighborhood restaurant and wine bar specializing in French--Israeli cuisine. The soundtrack of classical music during the day and jazz at night, as well as the rustic-chic decor, provide a sophisticated atmosphere for a solid clientele of politicians, judges, and Jerusalemite intelligentsia. Don't miss the moules frites (mussels served with french fries) or the sea bream cooked in white wine, and finish off the rich meal with a baba au rhum, a small bundt cake doused in sweet rum.
On a hillside opposite Jerusalem's Old City, this is one of the best spots to dine when the stone walls reflect the golden sunset. The menu is heavy on meat and draws from Mediterranean influences. For starters, try the leek patties or the earthy bean soup with truffle oil. Ceviche is served with grated tomatoes, a nod to Yemenite kitchens. The standout dish is shpondra, or thin rib, cooked for seven hours. Vegetarians will find grilled artichokes or black risotto with mushrooms. Desserts are tasty, and the extensive wine list features local and foreign bottles. Look around while you dine; Touro is underneath the Jerusalem Press Club and is frequented by prominent local and foreign journalists.
The name means "red" in Hebrew, referring to the 150 kinds of wine that decorate every wall in this large yet cozy restaurant. The menu has roots in Mediterranean kitchens, and includes loads of meat and seafood options. Try the fantastic Jerusalem mixed grill—it's a gussied-up version of the city's famed street food. Desserts include tahini ice cream and a dark chocolate, gluten-free "Nemesis cake." If you're seated at the bar, look up: when Adom moved to the First Station complex, the old restaurant's plates were converted into intricate light fixtures. Don't arrive Friday evening without reservations.
This popular eatery with a geometric mirrored ceiling is steps from the King David Street hotel district. The steaks are among the city's finest, as are the desserts, including dark-chocolate mousse and fresh fruit over tapioca pudding. The staff is helpful and friendly, and the knowledgeable sommelier will guide you to unusual Israeli vintages.
Run by Canadian immigrant Harvey Sandler, this hot spot (once called Gabriel's) has become a landmark in the city for American smokehouse barbecue. It serves smoked meats; home-style sides like yam fries, hand-crafted onion rings, and lamb bacon in bourbon sauce; plus a smattering of southern-inspired cocktails and refreshing craft beers.
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