14 Best Sights in Around Jerusalem and the Dead Sea, Israel

Beit Guvrin–Maresha National Park

Fodor's choice

This national park encompasses some 1,250 acres of rolling hills in the Judean lowlands, where, for thousands of years, people dug quarries, burial caves, storerooms, hideouts, and dovecotes in a subterranean labyrinth of unparalleled complexity. In the Second Temple period, millions of pilgrims ascended to Jerusalem to offer animal sacrifices. At Beit Guvrin, doves were raised on a vast scale to supply the pilgrims' need. Unlike many ruins, this national park allows you to readily envision life 2,000 years ago, both above- and underground.

The antiquities sprawl around the kibbutz of Beit Guvrin, just beyond the junction of Routes 38 and 35. These are bits and pieces of the 2nd- to 3rd-century AD Beit Guvrin, renamed (around the year 200) Eleuthropolis, "the city of free men." The amphitheater—an arena for Roman blood sports and mock sea battles—is one of only a few discovered in Israel.

After entering the park, drive south toward the flattop mound of ancient Maresha, known today as Tel Maresha. King Rehoboam of Judah fortified it, but it was during the Hellenistic period (4th to 2nd centuries BC) that the city reached its height and the endless complexes of chalk caves were dug. Maresha was finally destroyed by the Parthians in 40 BC and replaced by the nearby Roman city of Beit Guvrin. The view from the tell is worth the short climb.

Ancient Mareshans excavated thousands of underground chambers to extract soft chalk bricks, with which they built their homes aboveground. Residents then turned their "basement" quarries into industrial complexes, with water cisterns, olive-oil presses, and columbaria (derived from the Latin word columba, meaning dove or pigeon). The birds were used in ritual sacrifice and as food, producers of fertilizer, and message carriers.

The most interesting and extensive cave system is just off the road on the opposite side of the tell (the trail begins at a parking lot). It includes water cisterns, storerooms, and a restored ancient olive press. Kids will love exploring (with close parental supervision, though the safety features are good), but the many steps are physically demanding.

The great "bell caves" of Beit Guvrin date from the late Roman, Byzantine, and early Arab periods (2nd to 7th century AD), when the locals created a quarry to extract lime for cement. At the top of each bell-shape space is a hole through the 4-foot-thick stone crust of the ground. When the ancient diggers reached the soft chalk below, they began reaming out their quarry in the structurally secure bell shape, each bell eventually cutting into the one adjacent to it. Although not built to be inhabited, the caves may have been used as refuges by early Christians. In the North Cave, a cross high on the wall, at the same level as an Arabic inscription, suggests a degree of coexistence even after the Arab conquest of the area in AD 636. More recently, Beit Guvrin was an Arab village, depopulated in 1948.

After leaving this system, continue walking down the hill to visit the Sidonian Burial Caves. These magnificent 3rd- to 2nd-century BC tombs—adorned with colorful, restored frescoes and inscriptions—have important archaeological evidence as to the nature of the town's ancient Phoenician colonists.

The undeveloped complexes of caves near the tell are off-limits to visitors. Keep to the marked sites only. The brochure at the entrance has a good map of the site.

Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

Fodor's choice

This beautiful nature reserve has a number of well-marked trails, all of which are off the main entrance. It is home to Nahal David (David's Stream), and the cave at Nahal David is believed to be the place where David hid while Saul hunted him down 3,000 years ago (I Samuel 24:1–22). Walkers can also visit the canyon of Nahal Arugot and the remains of an ancient synagogue and village. Get a map from the admission booth, and plan to spend anywhere from an hour to a day here, depending on your interest in nature and hiking. Reaching Ein Gedi from the north, the first turnoff to the right is the parking lot at the entrance to the reserve.

The clearly marked trail to Nahal David rises past several pools and small waterfalls to the upper waterfall. There are many steps, but it's not too daunting. Allow at least 1¼ hours to include a dip under one of the lower waterfalls. Look out for ibex (wild goats), especially in the afternoon, and for the small, furry hyrax, often seen on tree branches. Leopards here face extinction because of breeding problems and are seldom seen nowadays.

If you're a serious hiker, don't miss the trail that breaks off to the right 50 yards down the return path from the top waterfall. It passes the remains of Byzantine irrigation systems and has breathtaking views of the Dead Sea. The trail doubles back on itself toward the source of Nahal David. Near the top, a short side path climbs to the remains of a 4th century BC Chalcolithic temple, the treasures of which can be seen in Jerusalem's Israel Museum. The main path leads on to the streambed, again turns east, and reaches Dudim Cave, formed by boulders and filled with crystal clear spring water. Swimming in "Lover's Cave" is one of the most refreshing and romantic experiences in Israel. Since this trail involves a considerable climb (and hikers invariably take time to bathe in the "cave"), access to the trail is permitted only up to 3½ hours before closing time.

Although not as lush as Nahal David, the deep canyon of Nahal Arugot is perhaps more spectacular. Enormous boulders and slabs of stone on the opposite cliff face seem poised in midcataclysm. The hour-long hike to the Hidden Waterfall (not too difficult) passes spots where the stream bubbles over rock shelves and shallow pools give relief from the heat. If you're adventurous and have water shoes, you can return through the greenery of the streambed. Experienced hikers can ascend the Tsafit Trail to Mapal Hachalon (translated as "window waterfall"), where there are stunning views over the Dead Sea.

A Jewish community lived in Ein Gedi for more than 1,200 years, beginning in the 7th century BC. In the 3rd century AD, they built a synagogue between Nahal David and Nahal Arugot. Its beautiful mosaic floor includes an inscription in Hebrew and Aramaic invoking the wrath of heaven on troublemakers including "whoever reveals the secret of the town." The secret is believed to refer to a method of cultivating balsam plants, which were used to make the prized perfume for which Ein Gedi was once famous. These famous plants, brought back to the area in the last decade after disappearing hundreds of years ago, can be seen in the botanical garden of the nearby Kibbutz Ein Gedi.

Reservations can be made in advance online or by phone, though you may need a Hebrew speaker to help you.

Latrun Armored Corps Museum

Fodor's choice

The name Latrun is thought to derive from "La Toron de Chevaliers" (The Tower of the Knights), the French name of the Crusader castle that occupied the crest of the hill in the 12th century. Eight centuries later, in 1940, the British erected the concrete fortress that, in the 1948 War of Independence, Israeli forces attempted five times to capture from Jordanian soldiers. Today, the structure houses a museum, called Yad Lashiryon in Hebrew, that honors Israeli armored corps soldiers who have died in battle from 1948 until the present. Items on display include a collection of more than 160 tanks, and children can explore sturdy vehicles outfitted with steps for them to climb. 

Recommended Fodor's Video

Adullam-France Park

This lush green park has paths and lookouts over the Ella Valley as well as archaeological sites, including an ancient synagogue and village and numerous caves that historians say Jewish rebels used for hiding, storing goods, and burials during the second century Bar Kokhba revolt against the ruling Roman empire. In addition to walking trails, there are also off-road-vehicle and bicycle trails.

Biankini Beach

This large beach offers paying guests access to parking, private bathing, abundant Dead Sea mud, and shaded seating beside a half-Olympic freshwater pool as well as a wading pool. A mini market offers light groceries and beach accessories. There is also a kosher Moroccan restaurant on the premises along with fast food like fried chicken and hamburgers. You can spend the night in cabins, a villa, or at campsites. Upon request, a shuttle takes you down the long trek to the Dead Sea shore for 10 shekels. Amenities: food and drink; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: walking; swimming; sunset.

Off Rte. 90, 90665, Israel
02-940–0266
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Fri. and Sat.: NIS 200. Sun.–Thurs.: NIS 100

Einot Tzukim Nature Reserve

Known for its freshwater springs, Einot Tzukim (also called Ein Fashkha) is a nature reserve with many species of trees and reeds not often found in the arid Judean Desert. You can swim in three shallow spring-fed pools, peek at the receding Dead Sea water, and visit an archaeological site that contains ruins of a perfume factory and a Roman-style manor house from the Second Temple period. A fourth deeper pool is open on weekends during spring and all week in July and August. There are free tours on Friday and Saturday at 11 am and 1 pm, but it's worth checking a day or two in advance whether English will be spoken. The tours are not offered during July and August, when the heat is extreme. A small stand sells ice cream, snacks, and cold drinks. Last entry is an hour before closure. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: walking; swimming.

Genesis Land

At this parched patch of the West Bank, beside the settlement of Alon, families can imagine Biblical life through the eyes of Jewish actors. Visitors ride camels, bake pita, and drink coffee in a tent that mimics the Bedouin style. Travelers have said this site is fun if campy.

Good Samaritan Museum

About 2,000 years ago, thieves ambushed a man traveling the Jerusalem–Jericho road, and only one passing Samaritan bothered to help him, dragging him to a nearby inn (Luke 10). Today, on what may be the same spot, this museum is housed in a restored Ottoman inn in the West Bank, about 22 km (14 miles) west of Jerusalem. It's run by the Israel Nature and Parks Authority and has an extensive collection of intricate mosaics scraped off the floors of churches, synagogues, and Samaritan houses of worship in Gaza and the West Bank. When you visit, ask to see the silent film about the parable; it dates from the 1920s and was shot amid the very same arid hills that stretch for miles from the museum. Audio guides for the museum are available in English, and the staff has plenty of information and maps about nearby sites and trails as well.

Mini Israel

This 13-acre theme park contains nearly 400 models of the most important historical, national, religious, and natural sites in the country, all scaled down to 1:25. Although some visitors have complained that the models are showing signs of wear, the site is worth at least an hour's visit, especially if you're traveling with children.

Mosaic Centre Jericho

This center works to restore ancient mosaics at some of the most well-known sites of the Holy Land, including the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It also produces new works for sacred and secular sites in the region and overseas. Founded by local conservator Osama Hamdan and the late Franciscan archaeologist Michele Piccirillo, the center offers courses for aficionados. Visitors can see the charming decorated garden and watch mosaic artists at work. Intricate (if heavy) mementos are for sale, and the center can also connect you with a guesthouse it runs near Nablus and a satellite branch in Bethlehem.

Neot Kedumim

The name means "Oases of Antiquity," and, at Israel's only biblical landscape reserve, you can follow paved paths that wind around ancient olive terraces, bushes of sage and hyssop, and millennia-old winepresses. Show yourself around with the help of a map that's available in English. Guided tours (available only to groups of 20 or more) offer insight on the threshing floors, the Dale of the Song of Songs, and the Valley of Milk and Honey and focus on Jewish, Christian, or interfaith themes. Ask about Biblical meals as well. Allow two hours minimum for the visit.

Neve Midbar Beach

Just south of Biankini Beach, this well-kept stretch offers a large swimming pool, a wading pool, and several food venues. A modern air-conditioned restaurant serves Middle Eastern fare, and a bar offers a large drink menu along with snacks and ice cream. Access the beach by a set of winding stairs or with the free shuttle. There's ample black mud and plenty of shade from beach umbrellas. The beach stays open all night for camping and sometimes weddings, although swimming is allowed during daylight hours only. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (free); showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming.

Stalactite Cave Nature Reserve

In 1968, a routine blast in the Har-Tuv quarry tore away rock face and revealed this 300,000-year-old, subterranean wonderland on the western slopes of the Judean Hills. The Stalactite Cave, also called Soreq Cave, contains a wondrous variety of stalactites and stalagmites. Lights are used to highlight the natural whites and honey browns of the stones, and local guides have given the formations nicknames like "macaroni," "curtains," and "sombreros." Despite the high humidity, the temperature in the cave is comfortable year-round.

There are 150 steps down to the cave, but arrangements can be made for those with mobility concerns to enter by a nearby road, avoiding the steps. Reservations are required and can be made online. An English-language video explains how the cave was formed.

Rte. 3866, 99775, Israel
02-991–1117
Sights Details
Rate Includes: NIS 28, Book online at en.parks.org.il/reserve-park/stalactite-cave-nature-reserve

Tel Arad National Park

The 250-acre site of the biblical city of Arad (to the northwest of the modern city) contains the remains of a major metropolis from the Bronze Age and the Israelite period. The lower city, with its meticulously planned streets and plazas, was inhabited in the Early Bronze Age (3150–2200 BC), when it was one of the largest cities in this region. Here you can walk around a walled urban community and enter the carefully reconstructed dwellings, whose style became known as the "Arad house."

After the Early Bronze Age, Arad was abandoned. The book of Numbers (21:1–3) relates that the Canaanite king of Arad battled the Israelites during the exodus from Egypt but that his cities were "utterly destroyed." The upper city was first settled in the Israelite period (1200 BC). It's worth the trek up the somewhat steep path to see the Israelite temple, a miniature version of Solomon's Temple in Jerusalem.

At the entrance, pick up a free pamphlet explaining the ongoing excavations and purchase a map of the Canaanite city of Arad, with its recommended walking route and diagrams of a typical Arad house. Tel Arad is 8 km (5 miles) west of Arad. At the Tel Arad Junction on Route 31, turn north on Route 80 for 3 km (2 miles).