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Cairo has always been a great place to shop for traditional items because of its spectacular medieval marketplace, the Khan al-Khalili, where browsing and bargaining are half the fun. There is no tried-and-true bargaining strategy; just shop around, decide how much something is worth to you, and start bargaining lower than that in order to end up at that point. In the Khan, the opening price is never the final price.
In the last decade Cairo has embraced the shopping mall. These enclosed, air-conditioned spaces stacked with international brands have revolutionized shopping for residents. Most malls also have shops selling a range of the same kinds of souvenirs that you'd find in the Khan al-Khalili, though at higher, nonnegotiable prices.
Wealthy and upwardly mobile Cairenes not only have the wherewithal to fund their lifestyles, but they also have great taste, so you'll find a wide selection of art galleries, designer shops, and fashion boutiques to indulge your need for retail therapy.
Although most of what you see in tourist shops are reproductions of varying quality, there is a long local tradition in Egypt of connoisseurship in collectibles, which means that there is always the possibility of finding a real gem. Be prepared, however, for local tastes that favor ornate French-style furniture and antiques, not the Middle Eastern pieces you might be longing for. There are several nameless antiques shops in Downtown Cairo along Shar'a Hoda Sharaawi that are worth looking into. Lots are shown for several days in advance of a two-day auction, which usually operates on a cash-only basis. Check the Egyptian Gazette for the latest auction schedules.
Stop by Cairo's last remaining bookbinding company, in business since 1936, for beautiful, leather-bound and gilt-decorated diaries, sketchbooks, and photo albums. All the items here are hand-crafted using skills that are rare in the 21st century.
At this great medieval souk, surrounded by a maze of winding streets and alleys, the air is perfumed with incense, and shopping is a chaotic but thoroughly authentic experience. Everyone, visitors and Cairenes alike, comes here to hunt for traditional items: carpets, gold, silver, clothing, spices, perfumes, waterpipes, jewelry, handicrafts, books, pottery, blown glass, leather, papyrus, pharaonic replicas—you name it. And no one ever buys anything at first price; bargaining is the modus operandi here.
The Khan and its surrounding streets also have lots of places to eat. Look for grilled-meat restaurants on the corner of Maydan al-Husayn and Shar'a Muski and places that specialize in fiteer, Egyptian pancakes filled with everything from feta cheese to raisins, between Shar'a Muski and Shar'a al-Azhar.
It's always best to pay using cash, as credit-card purchases can incur a 3% to 6% service charge (ask before handing over your plastic). And if you run out of Egyptian pounds, the Khan has plenty of ATMs. Note that most shops are closed on Sunday and before and/or during Friday prayers (the hour around noon or 1 pm).
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