Restaurants Overview

Until recently Cairo did not have what might be called a restaurant scene: five-star hotels catered to the wealthy, modest sidewalk kitchens in popular districts served the poor, and there was relatively little in between. That has changed -- and continues to change so rapidly that entrepreneurs seem to be opening new restaurants every month or two. Another change has been the dramatic expansion of cuisine options to include Lebanese and Turkish, Indian, Thai, French, Italian, Japanese, and others. Naturally, Egyptian food remains the local favorite, and Cairo is the place to find the best of the country's specialties.

Egyptians eat late: lunch from 1 to 3 and dinner often starting at 9 or 10. In summer, this all shifts an hour or two later, and during Ramadan it goes absolutely haywire. Most restaurants are open daily for both lunch and dinner.

Unless noted, all restaurants below serve alcohol. One of the best things to happen in Cairo in recent years has been the appearance of local beers (including Stella Premium, Meister, and Sakara) and -- finally -- a drinkable if unspectacular local wine (red Omar Khayyam and white Gianiclis) to replace the old state-produced dross. Top-end restaurants also have imported wines.

Tipping is tricky, even for Cairenes. Although fancier places levy a 12% service charge, it is customary to leave a tip in inverse relation to the size of the bill, ranging from, say, 8% at expensive places to 12%-14% at cheaper places. That said, if service is good, reward it handsomely -- it is a rare thing in Cairo.

Note that the restaurant scene is highly vulnerable to the state of the economy. If you plan to eat at a restaurant that is not in a hotel, call ahead to check that it's still open.