Seheyl Island is one of many islets (some of which are game preserves) in the cataract, or rapids, where the Nile narrows in the midst of dramatic outcroppings of pink-and-black granite—the trip here by felucca (£E60) through the cataract is half the reason to come. Seheyl was sacred to the goddess Anukis, who was entrusted with channeling the floodwaters upriver. A mountain of crumbling rock on Seheyl's southeast corner is covered with 250 inscriptions, the graffiti of several thousand years' worth of travelers. The archaeological area is gated, but the ticket kiosk is seldom manned. If the guardian isn't in, go to one of the nearby houses and someone will serve you tea (offer baksheesh in return for the courtesy) while you wait for him to return.