You know you're in a special place when a steady stream of Egyptians—a breed who believe mightily in home cooking—breeze in here to place the orders they'll later carry home to their families. Just nine small tables, usually filled, sit among the nautical blues and yellows of decorative tiles inside; a couple of outside tables by the front door give onto the pedestrian souk. This is a fish place, where the subject at hand sits in small cases under ice. Take your pick
of mullet, sole, or sea bream, for instance, and they'll tell you the price, cook it however you like, and serve it with rice and mezze. If you opt for tagine-style preparation—who knew a fish casserole could taste so rich?—just watch out for the bones.
Shar‘a Saad Zaghloul, next door to the Paradise Hotel, Aswan, Egypt