Moremi Wildlife Reserve

Prolific wildlife and an astonishing variety of birdlife characterize this reserve, which has become well-known because it's the first in southern Africa to be proclaimed by the local people (the Batawana) themselves. As there are no fences, the big game—and there's lots of it—can migrate to and from the Chobe Park in the north.

Sometimes it seems as if a large proportion of Botswana's 70,000 elephants have made their way here, particularly in the dry winter season. Be prepared to check off on your game list lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas, wild dogs, buffalo, hippos, dozens of different antelopes, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, and more than 400 kinds of birds. If you're a birder, choose the hot summer months (November-April) because dozens of returning migrants flock here in their thousands. The return of the Carmine bee-eaters and Woodland kingfishers is a dazzling sight, as are the hosts of wading water birds, from storks of all kinds, to elegant little sandpipers. Although during the South African school vacations (July and December) there are more vehicles than normal, traffic is mostly light, and in the Moremi, unlike many of Africa's other great reserves, you'll often be the only ones watching the game. Winter (May-October) is the best game viewing time as the vegetation is sparse and it's easier to spot game. Also, because there's little or no surface water, animals are forced to drink at the rivers or permanent waterholes. However, during the other months—known as the "Green Season"—you'll often get fantastic offers by individual lodges, with greatly reduced rates. But be warned, summer temperatures can soar to the mid-30s centigrade and over, so make sure your lodge of choice has a pool and a/c, or at least a fan. Self-driving is possible in the Moremi, but a 4x4 is essential because road conditions are poor (sometimes impassable in the rainy season), distances from cities are long, and national park lodging consists of very rustic nonserviced camping sites with no electricity. If you're an overseas visitor, we suggest you stick to the private lodges. They might be pricey, but they're worth every penny.