Climbing Table Mountain

Climbing Table Mountain

Along with Victoria Falls on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia, Table Mountain is one of southern Africa's most beautiful and impressive natural wonders. The views from its summit are awe-inspiring. The mountain rises more than 3,500 feet above the city, and its distinctive flat top is visible to sailors 65 km (40 mi) out to sea. In summer, when the southeaster blows, moist air from False Bay funnels over the tabletop, condensing in the colder, higher air to form a tablecloth of cloud. Legend attributes this low-lying cloud to a pipe-smoking contest between the devil and Jan van Hunks, a pirate who settled on Devil's Peak. The devil lost, and the cloud serves to remind him of his defeat.

Climbing will take two to three hours, depending on your fitness level. There is no water along the route; you must take at least 2 liters ( 1/2 gallon) of water per person. Table Mountain can be dangerous if you're not familiar with the terrain. Many paths that look like good routes down the mountain end at treacherous cliffs. Do not underestimate this mountain. It may be in the middle of a city, but it is not a genteel town park. Wear sturdy shoes or hiking boots; always take warm clothes, such as a windbreaker, and a mobile phone; and let someone know of your plans. The mountain is safe if you stick to known paths, but, although the paths are marked, it is easy to become disoriented, especially when there is heavy cloud cover. Look for the Table Mountain map by Peter Slingsby at most major outdoor stores or the shop at the Lower Cable Station. If you are on the mountain and the weather changes dramatically (heavy rain, mist) and you can't tell where you are, just sit tight and call Wilderness Search and Rescue to let them know you're in trouble. You will be rescued as soon as the weather permits. Walking around in the mist is very dangerous. Also be aware that in light of occasional muggings here, it's unwise to walk alone on the mountain. It's recommended that you travel in a group or, better yet, with a guide.

Atop the mountain, well-marked trails offering 10- to 40-minute jaunts crisscross the western Table near the Upper Cable Station. Many other trails lead to the other side of Platteklip Gorge and into the mountain's catchment area, where you'll find reservoirs, hidden streams, and incredible views. Feeling adventurous? Try a rappel from the top -- it's only about 350 feet, but you're hanging out over 3,300 feet of air. A shop at the top of the mountain, appropriately called the Shop at the Top, sells gifts and curios.

Flora and Fauna

Despite being virtually surrounded by the city, Table Mountain is a remarkably unspoiled wilderness. Most of the Cape Peninsula's 2,200 species of flora -- about as many plant species as there are in all of North America and Europe combined -- are found on the mountain. This includes magnificent examples of Cape Town's wild indigenous flowers known as fynbos, Afrikaans for "fine bush," a reference to the tiny leaves characteristic of these heathlike plants. The best time to see the mountain in bloom is between September and March, although you're sure to find some flowers throughout the year.

Long gone are the days when Cape lions, zebras, and hyenas roamed the mountain, but you can still glimpse grysboks (small antelopes), baboons, and rabbitlike dassies (rhymes with "fussy"). Although these creatures, also called rock hyraxes, look like oversize guinea pigs, this is where the similarities end; the dassie's closest relative is the elephant. They congregate in large numbers near the Upper Cable Station, where they've learned to beg for food. Over the years a diet of junk food has seriously compromised their health. Visitors are encouraged not to feed them tidbits -- no matter how endearing they look.

Taking a Break

During the warm summer months Capetonians are fond of taking picnic baskets up the mountain. The best time to picnic is after 5, as some say sipping a glass of chilled Cape wine while watching the sun set from Table Mountain is one of life's great joys. The large self-service restaurant called, quite simply, The Restaurant (021/424-8181) serves great hot breakfasts, light meals, sandwiches, and local wine, and has a good salad bar. The Cocktail Bar (021/424-8181) dishes up a spectacular view along with cocktails and bar snacks from 2 until the last cable car. As you might expect, the place has a good wine list, with local labels predominating.