Desert FAQ

Desert FAQ

When it comes to the Sahara, there's a first time for everyone, and no question is too silly. Here are some classics:

Will I fry?: Quite possibly. Temperatures can reach 55°C (131°F) in June, July, and August. The easy answer? If you must go in summer, don't go out in the day (even the camels won't); rather, take sunset camel rides into the dunes, spend the night, and head back at dawn. The best (and busiest) time is between March and the beginning of May. October to February is nice, too, although it can be chilly at night December through February.

What should I wear?: Cover up. People who've been living in the desert for years know that one light cotton or silk layer is better than a tank top and shorts.

What about my head?: Donning the sheish (head scarf), beloved of Saharaouia and Berbers, is really fun. Knot the end of a lightweight dyed fabric (most often blue, hence the desert moniker "the blue men") and put it on your head. Wrap the rest around your head and take the end across your nose and tuck it in. Didn't get it? No worries. Ask the experts and prepare to laugh.

What if I prefer skiing?: Believe it or not, you're in the right place. If camels, four-wheel drives, and long walks don't interest you, think of the sands as a miraculous cross between snow and sea. There are opportunities to ski, sand-board, and body-board. You can rent equipment from the auberges that surround Erg Chebbi near Merzouga. Make sure you ask an expert if the sand is suitable -- as with snow, you need it heavy and compact to get a good chance of going like the wind. And yes, it sounds weird, but that's why it's so cool.

What's all this talk of faux guides?: Guiding visitors around the desert has kept hard-up locals in cash for years. Now that the road to Merzouga is entirely paved, it's proving harder to capture customers early on, in Rissani, Erfoud, and even Er-Rachidia. Watch out for people on buses who claim not to be interested in selling you anything, but whose "uncle" has a place you can stay in for cheap. Most of these touts get a commission when they bring visitors to an auberge. Likewise, some may try to convince you that the auberge you think you're staying at has shut down, or is poorly run, and offer you a "better" alternative. Strangers may sometimes follow you by moped and urge you into the auberge of their choice. By far the best way to play this is to book an auberge in advance and arrange pickup if you don't have your own transport, or a roadside meeting even if you do.

Which dune should I visit?: The impressive Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga are more amenable to a quick "in-out" overnight, but then again, they're far away from Ouarzazate. The small dunes near Zagora, at Amezrou and Tinfou, aren't worth writing home about, although some hurried tourists only ever make it that far. There might be some lovely places to stay nearby, but it just isn't the desert proper. Southwest of Mhamid, however, you have eye-popping dunes that stretch for miles, including the Erg Chagaga. Allow for at least two days (by camel) to get there from Mhamid.

Where should I stay?: In the desert is the short answer. Most operators and auberges have permanent tented camps hidden among the oases and dunes, so there's no hassle once you arrive. They even have tents for two, so there's no need to start thinking this is Woodstock. If you want to keep the stars within eyeshot all night, you can also just sleep on a rug over the sands. There are also some traditionally styled guesthouses of varying quality around the dunes at Merzouga and Mhamid; these generally offer private bathrooms, more luxury, and the chance to organize a trip through local guides.

Tips

If you're driving and have a GPS, consider bringing it, especially if you're headed for Merzouga: not so much to find the dunes as to locate your auberge! They are scattered throughout the area, and can be hard to find on the scrubby pistes. Most auberges know their GPS fixing, so call ahead and ask.

Bring water-purifying tablets. The more hard-core excursions through the desert stretching from Foum Zguid to Mhamid can go on for days, requiring too much water to carry yourself.

Pick a place to stay before you get to the town, call them up and confirm. You'll avoid so much hassle with persuasive local touts if you know where you're going and can say so confidently. Better yet, get your hosts to pick you up or meet you at an appointed place.

Bear in mind that riding a camel for a number of days can be painful. The second day, with soreness from the preceding day, is thought to be the worst. So either keep your camel trips short or do the intrepid thing and ride through the pain barrier and out the other side, at which point you might well never want to dismount from your trusty but bad-tempered steed.

-Katrina Manson & James Knight