Calèches are green, canopied, horse-drawn carriages that hold four to five people. Even if they do scream "tourist," they're a great way to reach your evening meal, and children love riding up front beside the driver. They're also picture-perfect for trips out to enjoy the Majorelle, Menara, and Agdal gardens. You should always agree on a price beforehand, but keep in mind that rides generally cost a minimum of 60 DH; trips to the Palmery might cost 300 DH, and round-trip excursions (circling the ramparts, say) might cost 200 DH. There are two main pick-up stops: one is in the medina, along the left side of the street stretching from the Djemâa el Fna to the Koutoubia Mosque; the other is in Guéliz, just south of the Place de la Liberté and west of Bab Nkob. You can also always try flagging one down.
No, you're not in London. There really are red double-decker buses zooming round the city. Marrakech Tour (024/33-96-37. www.marrakech-tour.com. 130 DH. ) offers sightseeing galore (including English audio headphones). A 24-hour ticket on these open-top numbers allows you to hop on, off, and back on again whenever you like (they run daily between 9:20 AM and 7 PM). One circuit, "Marrakech Monumental," stops at the main sights, including the two palaces and the Koutoubia mosque, and is particularly useful for the Menara Gardens, a little way out of town. The other circuit, "Marrakech Romantique," takes you to the Palmery -- a good bet for the Majorelle Gardens or the Palmery Golf Palace. You can pick up a bus at any of the many stopping-off points, but both stop at Place de la Liberté by Bab Nkob.
Cycling around Marrakesh is physically easy, as the city is flat and open. The drawbacks are hectic roads, the "shut-your-eyes-and-go" approach to crossing streets, and constantly having to dodge pedestrians, donkey carts, and cars. But if you're feeling tough, a bike is perfect for a ride out to the Menara or Agdal gardens or north on the Casablanca road to the Palmery oasis circuit and back, 25 km (16 mi) in all. You can rent bikes opposite the Hotel Imperial Borj, in Hivernage; outside the Hotel Safir Siaha, on the Casablanca road; or inquire at your hotel's front desk.
[By]-James Knight & Katrina Manson
