Drink in the Views

Drink in the Views

Nowhere is café culture busier than on Djemâa el Fna, where several terraces compete for the award for best view of the square.

Our favorite is the first-floor terrace (the middle level, not the upper) of Café Argana (1, 2, pl. Djemâa el Fna. 024/44-53-50), where the only drawback is that you have to eat (rather than drink) for the privilege of the best square-side table. On your way out you can also pick up a scoop of ice cream for 6 DH, choosing from among more than 20 ice-cream flavors (including such exotics as fig, avocado, and cinnamon).

Les Terrasses de l'Alhambra (Pl. Djemâa el Fna, opposite Café de France. 065/04-74-11) in the square's northeastern corner is the classiest option, with decent pizza and pasta and warm wood panels. It's tucked away at the edge of the square, but still has lovely views. Bag a seat on the top terrace.

Just opposite Les Terrasses, Café de France (Pl. Djemâa el Fna, in northeastern corner. 024/44-23-19) is much past its prime, but as long as you're only interested in a late-night hot chocolate with a good view (it stays open until midnight -- later than most), it does the trick; go right up to the top terrace corner.

To catch the sunset and the beginnings of the alluring smoke and sizzle of the grills, the rightly named Grand Balcon du Café Glacier, to the south of the square, is a top choice. It shuts relatively early, though, and you'll have to compete for elbow room with all the amateur photographers who throng the best spot.