Big Anniversary Savings at SF's Argent Hotel

Still trying to figure out what to do for that upcoming wedding anniversary? San Francisco's luxurious Argent Hotel has just the thing. Guests celebrating an anniversary determine their room rates by adding the number one in front of the year they were married. So, if you were married in '89, your room rate for one night would be $189, and couples married in '79 would pay $179. The longer you've been married, the lower the rate. Couples who've enjoyed five decades (or longer) of marital bliss pay a flat nightly fee of $50 per night (alas, newlyweds married between 2000 and 2005 must pay a flat nightly rate of $200). The Argent Hotel is in the heart of San Francisco, near Union Square, Market Street, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Yerba Buena Gardens and the Moscone Convention Center. To book the Wedding Anniversary Celebration package, call 877-222-6699 or visit www.argenthotel.com. Package is based on availability, exclusive of tax, and must be booked 72 hours prior to arrival. Marriage certificates must be presented at time of check in. Deal is valid through December 31, 2005.

Off-Season Nantucket Deals

Getting older isn't much fun, as anyone over 40 will tell you. Travelers of a certain age, however, will be pleased by the savings offered this fall at the Jared Coffin House, Nantucket's most historic inn. From September 5 to October 9, 2005, the hotel's 50/50 program offers rates starting at just $112 per night, for guests age 50 and older. From October 10 to November 24, 50/50 rates start at just $60 per room, per night. All rates apply to stays from Sunday to Thursday nights, and are subject to availability.

The Jared Coffin House is located in the heart of Nantucket Town's Old Historic District. The location is ideal for an afternoon stroll past the town's historic sights, which include lovely gardens, Greek Revival-style buildings, stately churches, and cobblestone streets.

Rates are per room, per night, subject to availability and represent a 50% savings off regular rates. Guests must present photo identification with birth date upon check-in; only one room occupant must be 50 to qualify. Some blackout dates and restrictions apply. Reservations can be made only by phone on 800/248-2405.

Late Summer Escape to San Diego

Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa, ideally located in the seaside town of La Jolla, along the San Diego coast, heads into the dog days of August with a Hot Summer Nights package, available Sunday through Thursday now through September 30, 2005. The resort is offering a mid-week 4 days/3 nights package for two priced at $795 that includes free parking, daily breakfast buffet, complimentary use of the spa and exercise center, a massage at The Spa at Estancia, and more. For more information, call 877/437-8262.

Low Autumn Fares on American

It's not too early to be thinking about an autumn escape. Whether you're in search of fall foliage or a sunny stroll on the beach, American Airlines and Sheraton Hotels have something in store for you. Here's the scoop:

Chicago to Miami
Prices starting from $74* each way

Dallas/Fort Worth to Los Angeles
Prices starting from $79* each way

New York City to San Francisco
Prices starting from $119* each way

Chicago to San Juan, Puerto Rico
Prices starting from $89* each way

Miami to Providenciales, Turks & Caicos
Prices starting at $99*

Miami to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
Prices starting at $118*

* Book by 8/12/2005

In addition, Sheraton Hotel & Resorts is offering a 20 percent discount in conjunction with bookings on an American Airlines flight for travel during the fall sale period (restrictions apply). Travelers can review and book travel at www.AA.com. For an additional $5 per ticket, travel arrangements can also be made by calling American's reservations number at 1-800-433-7300 within the U.S. and Canada. The Sheraton Hotel & Resorts promotion is available at participating hotels in North America and Latin America. Book by August 12, 2005 and complete stay by December 15, 2005. For complete rules and restrictions, see the terms and conditions on www.sheraton.com/20sale.

World's 50 Best Restaurants

If fine dining is high on your list of travel priorities, the results of Restaurant magazine's annual World's 50 Best Restaurants poll should interest you. The annual list is based on the magazine's canvassing of more than 600 influential restaurateurs, critics, chefs, and industry experts. This year's consensus will have foodies everywhere heading to London, where over a quarter of the winners are located. We've included the winner's list below and links to Fodorites' reviews of these acclaimed spots.

1. The Fat Duck - Bray, Berkshire
2. El Bulli Montjoi - Girona, Spain
3. The French Laundry - Yountville, California
4. Tetsuya's - Sydney
5. Gordon Ramsay - London
6. Pierre Gagnaire - Paris
7. Per Se - New York
8. Tom Aikens - London
9. Jean Georges - New York
10. St John - London
11. Michel Bras - Laguiole, France
12. Le Louis XV - Monte Carlo, Monaco
13. Chez Panisse - Berkeley, California
14. Charlie Trotter's - Chicago
15. Gramercy Tavern - New York photo right
16. Guy Savoy - Paris
17. Restaurant Alain Ducasse - Paris
18. The Gallery at Sketch - London
19. The Waterside Inn - Bray, Berkshire
20. Nobu - London
21. Restaurante Arzak - San Sebastian, Spain
22. El Raco de Can Fabes - San Celoni, Spain
23. Checchino dal 1887 - Rome
24. Le Meurice - Paris
25. L'Hotel de Ville - Crissier, Switzerland
26. L'Arpege - Paris
27. Angela Hartnett at the Connaught - London
28. Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons - Oxford, England
29. Le Cinq - Paris
30. Hakkasan - London
31. Cal Pep - Barcelona
32. Masa - New York
33. Flower Drum - Melbourne, Australia
34. WD50 - New York
35. Le Quartier Francais - Franschhoek, South Africa

36. Spice Market - New York
37. Auberge de l'Ill - Illhaeusern, Alsace
38. Manresa - Los Gatos, California
39. Restaurant Dieter Muller - Begisch Gladbach, Germany
40. La Maison Troisgros - Roanne, France
41. The Wolseley - London
42. Rockpool - Sydney
43. Yauatcha - London
44. The Ivy - London
45. Gambero Rosso - San Vincenzo, Italy
46. The Cliff - St James, Barbados photo right
47. Le Gavroche - London
48. Enoteca Pinchiorri - Florence, Italy
49. Felix - Hong Kong
50. La Tupina - Bordeaux, France

Join the talk forum's discussion of the merits of the winners.

Photo Credits: (1) courtesy of Gramercy Tavern (2) courtesy of The Cliff

Overlooked and Underrated: Newgrange, Ireland

Where: Newgrange, the world's oldest building and the star of Ireland's history-haunted Boyne Valley, about an hour's drive from Dublin.

Why: Built at least 5,200 years ago---1,000 years before Stonehenge---Newgrange and its mysterious neighbors, the megalithic passage tombs of Knowth and Dowth, were built by a lost, technologically advanced civilization. Working before the invention of the wheel, 300 workers took 20 years to shift 200,000 tons of stone from as far as 50 miles away to build it. Nobody is quite sure why.

In 1969, archaeologists working deep inside, about 15 feet underground, made a startling discovery. At sunrise on the winter solstice---the shortest day of the year---a thin beam of sunlight, channeled through a precisely aligned opening, penetrates the inner chamber and floods it with blinding light.

Don't miss: The waiting list for the winter solstice experience is years long. But the phenomenon is dramatically simulated during excellent guided visits from the Bru na Boinne Visitors Center, west of Donore (+353 41 988 0300 ) every day of the year. When light fills the darkened chamber, you'll understand why ancient people worshipped the sun.

Also worth seeing: The Boyne Battlefield where, in 1690, William of Orange defeated his father-in-law and Catholic rival James III in one of the most contentious battles of Irish history. As a pre-Millennial act of cross-border co-operation, the Irish government joined forces with Ulster's Orange Order to purchase and develop the battlefield, now open to the public year round.

Tasty treat: Tea, with homemade cakes, is arguably the best meal in Ireland.

Best restaurant: The Signal Restaurant, in the Station House Hotel, specializes in traditional Irish food---rack of Kilmessan lamb, Boyne Salmon. The setting is an abandoned railway station morphed into a luxury hotel. Kilmessan, Co. Meath +353 46 25239.

How to get there: From Dublin, take the N2 north towards Slane in Co. Meath. Turn right on Donore Road, 1.2 miles south of Slane. The Bru na Boinne Visitors Center is 4.5 miles further on the River Boyne. Bus Eireann operates day tours of Newgrange and the Boyne Valley from Dublin's Central bus station.

---Ferne Arfin

Just Back From New Orleans

Fodor's writer Michelle Delio recently paid a visit (one of many) to New Orleans, which is quite possibly her favorite city in the world. Here's her report.

Why New Orleans?

The city totally seduced me during my first visit 15 years ago. Since then I've been back 13 times. The architecture, the food, the music, the magic---there is no place in the world quite like New Orleans. As soon as I get home, I start planning a return trip.

What were your favorite finds this time?
St. Roch's (1725 St. Roch Ave.) is a classic New Orleans-style cemetery with a tiny gothic chapel dedicated to the patron saint of plague victims. There's a small room to the right of the altar crammed with offerings commemorating cures attributed to the saint. Most are plaster replicas of body parts or medical supplies, including two artificial eyeballs proudly displayed on a platter. Far more intriguing than the legendary local cemeteries. The chapel isn't always open, so call first (504-945-5961).

Barrister's Gallery (1724 O. C. Haley Blvd.) features an outstanding collection of strange southern folk and outsider art, a must see for connoisseurs of the weird. Sallie Ann Glassman's voodoo shop, Island of Salvation Botanica (835 Piety St, FeyVodou.com), is an oasis amidst all the tourist tripe, a warm, welcoming place to ask questions about voodoo, buy authentic curios, and get an eerily accurate crystal ball reading.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

There's no one best thing to eat in New Orleans! Acme Oyster House (923 Decatur Street) makes a great shrimp po' boy sandwich (we skipped the oysters since its summer, but know from previous slurping that the gooey mollusks are terrific here, ditto the boiled crawfish). Mother's (401 Poydras Street) po' boys are overall the best in the city.

Central Grocery's muffulettas (a sandwich of meats, cheeses and olive salad) are wonderful, as is the alligator sauce piquant (a spicy 'gator stew) and the crawfish pasta at the Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter's Street). The new-to-me Voodoo BBQ, (1501 St. Charles Ave.) serves up terrific barbecue. Eating a plate of beignets while sipping chicory coffee at Café du Monde (800 Decatur Street) is essential, but don't exhale as you lift a beignet to your mouth or everything in the vicinity will be covered in powdered sugar.

What was overrated?
This is going to get me bammed, but I think Emeril's New Orleans' restaurants have taken a slide since the chef became so popular. Back when Emeril was a chef rather than a celebrity, eating at his Warehouse District restaurant (Emeril's at 800 Tchoupitoulas St.) was a real treat. Now the food and service are just okay, though the desserts are still terrific.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
Thinking Bourbon Street would be fun to see again. Yuck. It still stinks of the unholy brew of body fluids that other tourists have left behind. Go there once for 15 minutes and then never ever go back. That's my advice.

What advice do you have for someone going to New Orleans?

Summertime brings very hot temperatures to New Orleans---100 degrees with close to 100% humidity. But most buildings are air-conditioned and there are plenty of river breezes and relaxed attitudes. In fact, New Orleans is actually more comfortable in the summer than many other cities. Plus, if you go in summer you'll find the city isn't crammed with tourists, so hotel rooms are amazingly cheap. Another good time to visit is during the weeks leading up to Christmas---the city is almost as uncrowded as it is during the summer, and the weather is usually nice. If you go in December, ask about "Papa Noel" rates, discounts for the holiday season offered by many New Orleans hotels.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Québec City
  
• Prague
  
• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

25% Savings on Los Cabos Luxury

Los Cabos has become one of Mexico's most popular coastal getaways. It's also one of the most expensive. A room with an ocean view here can easily set you back $600 or $700 per night, the highest room rates in Mexico.

What's the fuss? Situated at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, the land ends in a rocky point called "The Arch," a place of surreal beauty, especially on balmy moonlit nights when the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez beckon.

Thanks to the kind folks at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, everyone can taste Los Cabos this summer. From now until October 15, 2005, the resort is offering 25 percent off on summer rates. Usual summer room rates run from $650 to $4,500 per night, but summer promotion prices run $450 to $3,800.

Las Ventanas is located at the tip of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, nestled on fine white sands along the sparkling-blue Sea of Cortez. The 61 suites are spacious, exquisitely furnished, and most have magnificent panoramic views. The avant-garde spa is heralded for its treatments derived from the biological bounty of the Baja desert, and the signature Baja-Mediterranean cuisine is inspired by the region's abundant natural resources. Guests can arrange yacht excursions, world-class golf, and tennis programs.

For information and reservations, call 888-767-3966. Outside the United States and Canada, call the resort directly at 52-624-144-2800.

Edinburgh Festival Fever

You can hardly fault denizens of Edinburgh for claiming the Culture-Capital-of-Europe title, at least in summer. Indeed, there are so many arts festivals here in August that performances sometimes spill out of festival houses and onto the city's crowded Royal Mile.

Seven festivals in all will vie for audiences this month, but the Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe feature the big-ticket items.

The Edinburgh International Festival lineup includes several politically charged performances, including Shan Kahn's The Prayer Room and John Adams' opera The Death of Klinghoffer.

The Fringe's offerings are enormous---in 2004 alone there were 25,326 performances---so if you're confused about what to see, advance word says you can't lose with dance troupe CoisCiém's Chamber Made, performed in a Hilton hotel room.

Although both festivals are packed with shows, the short duration of most performances means that festival-goers can fit in several shows in a single day. Overwhelmed? Stay flexible and be ready to wander. We've compiled a preview of performances at both festivals that have earned early buzz:

58th Annual Edinburgh International Festival

58th Annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Photo Credit: A Fringe Festival performance on the Royal Mile, courtesy of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival

---Katie Hamlin

5 Days/4 Nights in Oahu for $799

Hilton Hotels' Grand Vacations Club is in the middle of a terrific Hawaii promotion. From now through December 25, you and a guest can languish in the sun and sand at Oahu's Hilton Hawaiian Village for five days/4 nights for $799. The package also includes gift certificates for shopping and dining at participating retailers and restaurants.

Located on Waikiki Beach, Hilton Hawaiian Village is the ultimate luxury resort, with comfortable, condo-style units, lush tropical gardens, waterfalls, exotic wildlife, a trendy spa and wellness center, 20 restaurants and lounges, 90 boutiques, cultural activities, and close proximity to all that Oahu has to offer.

Talk to a vacation guide at 1-866-843-4482 (refer to web code WEBPHNHHV)

Vacation at Home with the Kids?

by Lisa Oppenheimer

It's hot, it's humid and it's raining. The air-conditioning is broken, and the kids are activity-less for a whole week between camps and the start of school. That's five days: 120 hours; 7,200 minutes; 432-thousand seconds (not including weekends). An eternity.

For those not lucky enough to be in possession of plane tickets to points elsewhere, it's time to get creative. Let's face it: Play dates, board games, and the great outdoors will only get you so far. Sooner or later, someone is going to let loose with that all-too-familiar call of the child, "Mommy, I'm bo-r-r-r-r-ed."

Despite the overload of free time and togetherness, I have managed to enjoy a school vacation or two. And that's without a lounge chair and a margarita. One of my favorites in recent memory was spent as a tourist in my own backyard.

Think Like a Tourist

I've lived near Boston since long before I had children and began answering to the title, "ma'am." But until desperation sent me screaming for the trolley tours, I hadn't so much as visited the Freedom Trail, let alone Fenway Park. Other families actually use their coveted vacation time to visit here. What were we missing? Being a tourist in your hometown means more than just acquiring local tchotchkes. You have to think like a tourist. Plan ahead, make reservations, research as if you were from out of town. Most important: Don't turn your nose up at an activity just because it's considered -- egad -- touristy.

Here are some other things to consider:

Convention and Visitors Bureaus: Most people don't readily think of their local CVB as a resource. That's not surprising, since such organizations spend their money advertising to out-of-towners. As a local, you probably don't need info on local currency and time zones (let's hope you're not that out of touch), but you will want up-to-date information on attractions. Many CVBs have phone lines staffed with vacation planners. Tourist booklets, available for free, will detail the most popular places of interest, as well as some you might not have heard of. They may even have money-saving coupons. Use an eagle eye to scan for the unusual. I would never have known about the local canoe rental (or in winter, the cross-country ski resort) had I not called the CVB. You'll also hear about discounts offered by individual institutions, as well as citywide offers such as the City Pass, currently available in many U.S. metropolises.

Guidebooks:You probably skip the travel portion of the bookstore that pertains to your home city. But you shouldn't. Guidebook authors spend months pounding the pavement in search of little-known facts and points of interest. Why should out-of-towners be the only beneficiaries?

City Park Rangers: As a group, these people are exceptionally knowledgeable about local lore. In addition to detailing interesting (and perhaps little-known) facts about local sites, they can direct you to walking tours (often free) that can make an educational trip more fun. In Boston, the local park service has a handout that turns the Freedom Trail into a treasure hunt and quiz: Return the completed packet and get an official ranger's badge. Like Convention and Visitors Bureaus, most park services have maps and brochures you can either pick up in person or have sent to your home.

Museums: Obvious city choices are going to be children's museums and other such institutions. Call ahead for a schedule of activities -- many facilities plan special events for out-of-school kids, some of which require pre-registration. Occasionally, you'll find a drop-off program that provides parent and child with a break from each other. Fine-arts museums might be less crowded (not to mentioned air conditioned), so don't rule them out. I'm often surprised by the number of so-called "grown-up" museums (Boston's Museum of Fine Arts and L.A.'s Getty Center to name two) that welcome -- even cater to -- children of all ages.

Tours: Bus and walking tours can help you get to know your city in a whole new way. Until last year, I had dismissed the local trolley tour as hokey. That it was -- but it was also a ton of fun. For 90 minutes, we rode around in a bus dressed up as a cute trolley, listening to our driver dispense the city's legend, lore, and a few corny jokes. With on-off privileges, we also had a ball stopping to walk around different sites. In nice weather, check around for local walking tours (again, the CVB and park rangers can help you here) that can take in anything from famous battle sites to local hauntings.

Public Transportation: If you're lucky enough to live near a city with good public transportation, ditch the car at the nearest train station and enjoy. The bedroom community we live in has nary a bus or train, so my kids think Boston's "T" is the city's equivalent of a Disney ride. We spent one entire vacation day gleefully riding the rails between junk-food stops. We had a ball.

Hotels: While it's a pricey addition to your sojourn at home, a hotel is the thing that makes a retreat a vacation. Not only can you revel in room service, but you can enjoy the benefits of being in the heart of the action. To make it a real treat, look for a hostelry with a pool (we once made an overnight vacation out of a stay in a pool-equipped hotel that was practically in our neighborhood). Check local travel-section ads (in your own city and others) for overnight deals that sometimes include shows and attractions.

Finally, act like a tourist, but remember you're a local. Extensive walking tours (like the Freedom Trail) don't have to be tackled all at once. And refrain from trying to do all of the city's attractions in a couple of days. After all, you live just around the corner.

London for 20£ a Night

For the price some backpackers pay to share a bunk with a snoring stranger, thrifty visitors to London can check-in at easyHotel, a slimmed down alternative to a full-service hotel. The rooms, which range in size from 60-80 square feet, don't offer much in the way of charm, but you can't complain about the rates, which start at 20£.

The rooms sleep two and have only a double bed and a bathroom. Daily housekeeping service, television, and even windows are available at an additional cost. Located in South Kensington, the hotel puts guests within close proximity to London's most famous sights.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of easyHotel

Cabo Luxe for Less

The two-month-old Pacifica Holistic Retreat & Spa in Cabo San Lucas is luring travelers to Mexico's Baja Peninsula with a low introductory offer of just $195 per night from now through the end of the year. Regular rates, effective January 1, 2006, start at $355 per night.

Sprawled along the Pacific Ocean, the new 140-room retreat has 14 luxurious seaside suites that draw inspiration from Zen-inspired, minimalist designs.

Health and well-being are the main emphasis here, and amenities include a full-service spa that boasts a half-dozen treatment rooms, a "therapeutic chamber," and a Watsu pool. A beachside Temazcal---a sweat-lodge ritual inspired by the ancient Aztecs---emphasizes spiritual, mental, and emotional well-being.

The resort's restaurant, Siempre, uses market-fresh ingredients and serves them up in a serene setting around the infinity pool. Guests enjoy 24-hour room service, a poolside restaurant-bar, Aire, and two additional cafes and bars, including a juice lounge.

For more information, call 800-990-8250 or visit www.pueblobonita.com

Visit the Castle Where Love Died

When people think of castles, they usually think of Europe, and with good reason. The greatest number of castles on earth are in Germany, Great Britain, and France. But there are castles in the U.S., and some of them even look like the real thing, with grand stone walls and tall spires, dramatic parapets, and gothic embellishments.

New York state has a perfectly wonderful citadel, Boldt Castle (right), in the Thousand Islands region of the state. Combining Medieval and Victorian architectural elements, Boldt Castle has six towers and 120 rooms and sits on a dramatic spread of forested land. Best of all is the manse's brooding story, which is even more evocative than the structure itself.

Boldt Castle was the creation of hotel tycoon George C. Boldt, who owned the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City. Around 1900 Boldt decided to build a castle for his wife, Louise. He spent more than $2.5 million on the structure, but on January 4, 1904 Louise Boldt died. Heartbroken, Boldt immediately stopped the ongoing construction and he never returned to the castle or the island.

For almost 75 years, the castle sat abandoned, falling into disrepair. In 1977 the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and began a long restoration. Today, visitors can take self-guided tours of the stronghold and wander many of its 120 rooms. Recent restoration has brought to light many fine features of the original design, including the Great Hall's grand staircase, a stained-glass dome in the upper ceiling, and marble flooring in most of the rooms. The first level has been turned into a museum, with exhibits on George and Louise, and other attractions include the Power House and Clock Tower, and the Boldt's playhouse, where the family resided while the castle was being built.

Getting to Boldt Castle
Visitors can take scenic boat cruises or take a shuttle boat from Alexandria Bay to get to the castle. Shuttles run every 30 minutes, from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m., and cost $7 per person. Boldt Castle facilities operate daily through October 16, 2005, as well as the weekend of October 22 and 23. The Boldt Castle Yacht House operates daily until October 2, 2005. Tickets to the castle are $5.25 for adults and $3 for children. For more information about Boldt Castle, visit www.boldtcastle.com.

MuseumWatch: London, Rome, Washington, DC

Frida Kahlo, Tate Modern, London, through October 9
If images of voluptuous actress Salma Hayek come to mind when you hear the name Frida Kahlo, the actual painted image of the bisexual Mexican artist may come as a shock. Her own favorite subject in dozens of self-portraits, the diminutive, mono-browed Kahlo found little success in her lifetime, which was lived in the shadow of the great rotund muralist Diego Rivera, whom she married twice. But her following has reached a cult-like status, and this retrospective, the first ever in the U.K., elevates her to the stratosphere of important 20th-century artists. Kahlo's unique view of her life and times---a left-wing whirl of famous communists in both the Old and New Worlds---was documented with oils and watercolors that reflect both the political upheaval of the time and her own personal demons. ---Will Shank

Fernando Botero, The Last Fifteen Years, Palazzo Venezia, Rome, through September 25
Is this more than a man with a gimmick? The Columbian painter and sculptor, born in Medillin in 1932, would have us think so. Fifty of the 170 works on display address the atrocities of the American military in the prison of Abu Ghraib in Iraq, but it is still hard not to snicker. Botero's signature style depicts everyone, hero and villain alike, as a spherical doughboy, creating an uneasy tension between the subject and the artist’s depiction of it. Easier to swallow are his cartoonlike parodies of traditional subjects: Jesus on the cross is so bloated that he appears helium-filled and likely to ascend to heaven like a balloon. Still, Botero's palette is so light and his style so naïve that one envisions his works as illustrations for a novel by his compatriot Gabriel Garcia Marquez.---Will Shank

Irving Penn: Platinum Prints, National Gallery of Art, Washington, through October 5
A rare opportunity to get inside the head of a creative artist, this exhibition, focusing on a 2002 gift of the photographer to the National Gallery, includes 17 photographic collages entitled "Platinum Test Materials." Each features six to ten randomly arranged test strips of some of Penn's most famous prints, including portraits of Pablo Picasso (right) and Marcel Duchamp, as well as his celebrated Vogue fashion studies, still lives, and studies of indigenous people in New Guinea. When juxtaposed, these serve to illustrate the technical choices that resulted in the luxurious textures of his sumptuous black-and-white photographs. The final platinum prints complete the picture. ---Will Shank

Photo credits: (top) Frida Kahlo, Tate Modern; (bottom) Irving Penn Picasso at La Californie, Cannes, France, 1957 National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gift of Irving Penn 1960 by Irving Penn, Courtesy of Vogue

Plush Bus--A Fine Alternative to Amtrak's Acela

Bostonians and New Yorkers alike will tell you there is no perfect way to get from one city to the other. In recent months, plane-, train-, and auto-fatigued travelers have been hopping on LimoLiner, a jazzy bus service that has been linking Beantown to the Big Apple since late 2003. According to LimoLiner spokesperson Kathy Wilson, business is up 15 percent since April, when Amtrak yanked the Acela. Free food gives busses an edge over flying. There are also cushy leather seats, free wireless internet, first-run movies, not to mention a butler---well, an "attendant" who will make dinner reservations for you en route. The tradeoff: what time you save bypassing airport security you may spend in rush-hour traffic. Busses run seven days between the Back Bay and New York Hiltons, with an intermediate stop at the Sheraton Framingham upon request. Cost is $76 each way. Plan ahead for popular Sunday and Monday trips. Call 888-546-5469. ---Lisa Oppenheimer

Montreal Highlife for Less

Looking for a reason to visit Montréal Here's one. From now through October 31, the Montréal Tourism Board's Sweet Deal packages shave 50% off the third night of your stay in Canada's most vibrant city. Packages also include discount coupon booklets for area attractions, room upgrades, and more. Check out the tourism board's site for full details. We've listed a few of the featured hotels below along with their nightly rates and our users' reviews:

Delta Montréal---$179 CAN, $145 US
Buffet breakfast, Starwood Preferred Guest Points

Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth---$209 CAN, $170 US
Full breakfast buffet or room service for two

Hilton Montréal Bonaventure---$230 CAN, $190 US
Upgrade to executive floor

Holiday Inn Select Montréal Centre-Ville---$169 CAN, $137 US
American breakfast

Hyatt Regency Montréal---$189 CAN, $154 US
Buffet Breakfast for two

Le Centre Sheraton---$199 CAN, $162
Continental breakfast for two, 12p.m. check-in, 3 p.m. check out

Montréal Marriott Château Champlain---$229 CAN, $186 US
Buffet breakfast for 2
Milk and cookies for kids on arrival

Ritz-Carlton Montréal---$229 CAN, $186 US
Pay with your VISA card and receive a free Cirque du Soleil CD.
Upgrade in Deluxe room.

Montréal bound? Check out tips from fellow Fodorites in our talk forums:

Montréal Restaurants-- Girl's Weekend

Recent Montréal features from the TravelWire:

15 Top Shops in Montréal Romantic Retreats

Photo credits: Photo courtesy of the Ritz-Carlton Montréal

What to Know If You Get Sick While On Vacation

by Lisa Oppenheimer

No one ever plans to get sick on vacation. I certainly didn't. But alas, one day into a vacation aboard a cruise ship, there I was dialing the shipboard emergency number for medical assistance, and being carted off to the infirmary in the middle of the night for what turned out to be a kidney stone.

As a child of the 1970s, I expected to find Bernie Kopell of The Love Boat in his "office," brandishing a stethoscope and a lascivious smile. A picture flashed in my head of the good doctor asking guest star Dick Gautier to cough, and then diagnosing Lou Gehrig's disease.

"Just let me die," I told my husband. As it happens, I was pleasantly surprised. The floating metropolis I'd boarded included an entire hospital, with several capable doctors and some sophisticated equipment, not to mention an IV line attached to a pain-numbing cocktail. I would have preferred to be in the mainland hospital of my choice. But given our location---the middle of the Atlantic Ocean---my kidney stone and I were quite happy to settle for the nearest medical facility, a few decks below my family's cabin.

Although the experience had a happy ending, it made me think carefully about medical options for future excursions. I had never considered what I'd do if a family member became seriously ill on the road. Lots of broods have tales of fevers, ear infections, injury-inducing "bonks," and other things that have sent them in search of a doctor. So, where exactly do you go?

If you're sailing aboard a cruise ship, as I was, you're probably in luck. Most ships are pretty well stocked to counter an array of emergencies. There's currently no standard for onboard health care, so you'll want to ask up front. Even so, for serious injuries you may need to go to a hospital at the next port.

On land, avoid the emergency room unless it's a true emergency. As at home, urgent-care wards take patients on a need-to-be-treated basis, so a minor ailment could be a full-day in a waiting room.

A better bet might be a walk-in clinic. Find one by asking a local, as I did the day my daughter came down with what I suspected was strep throat during a visit to the San Diego Zoo. Many resorts and hotels contract with medical services that provide house calls in a pinch. If you have no luck at your own hotel or if you're staying in a private rental without a front desk, call a nearby resort or hotel (a child-friendly one if you're looking to treat a sick child) and ask where they refer patients.

If you're out of the country, a U.S. consular office can help you find medical care in an emergency. You can find information ahead of time at www.travel.state.gov/. That said, you'll do even better if you've done a little advance planning. Some good ideas:

Bring your own meds. This includes over-the-counter stuff, especially if you're going overseas where familiar brands might be unavailable, and simple things, such as painkillers, particularly for children, might have entirely different formulas. Ask your doctor about suitable alternatives in case you find yourself in a pinch.

Safeguard Prescriptions. Essential meds should always be packed in your carry-on. Save yourself a phone call back home by bringing a spare doctor's prescription, just in case. I like to stash a couple of essential pills, such as antibiotics, in a separate bottle so as to avoid immediate calamity if something should get lost.

Bring a medical report. Complicated conditions can be helped along in an emergency with a written description from your doctor, especially if you're going out of the country.

Check out government advisories. Prepare yourself for what might happen in a foreign destination by checking out the travel advisories of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Research the Web. Several Web sites, including MedicineNet.com, provide information for travelers.

Consider joining a medical club. Organizations such as International SOS charge a membership fee to help you find medical help wherever you are.

Read Your Insurance Policy. Some plans will pay for out-of-area coverage only if it's a bona-fide emergency. Others put a cap on medical expenses while you're traveling, and many require you to call for approval before seeking help. My cruise ship care required payment up front, and was quite pricey. My insurance company was kind and reimbursed me, but I needn’t have been so lucky. Knowing the rules in advance could save you some unexpected expenses later.

If medical coverage is spotty, consider supplemental insurance. Trip-cancellation or interruption insurance covers costs if you have to cancel or cut your trip short for medical or other reasons. If you're traveling to a truly remote spot, you might consider evacuation insurance, which covers the exorbitant cost (often in the tens of thousands) if a family member needs to be airlifted to a hospital.

Overlooked and Underrated: Beaucaire, France

by Ferne Arfin

Where: Beaucaire, in the heart of Van Gogh country, mid-way between St. Remy de Provence and Nimes.

Why: For hundreds of years this pretty little pleasure port, at the intersection of the Rhone and the Canal du Rhone a Sete, hosted the richest commercial fair in Europe. Fabulous 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century town mansions crowd narrow lanes and shady squares as evidence of the fortunes made.

The surrounding open countryside segues from fragrant garrique---rock- strewn hills covered with wild thyme, rosemary, rock roses and pine---to the wide salt meadows of the Camargue, where wild ponies and small native bulls graze alongside huge flocks of pink flamingos.

Tasty treat: Pichoulines---small, green, local olives redolent of herbs and garlic. And if you see taureau (French for bull) on a menu, don't pass it up. The richly flavored beef of the semi-wild cattle is a Beaucaire specialty.

Top outing: Take a boat along the Petit Rhone into the Camargue. Because this stretch of the Rhone is quiet, no license is required and boats can be rented for a few hours or by the day. It's a great way to see wildlife and the thousands of species of resident and migrating birds.

Also Worth Seeing: The Troglodyte Abbey, just outside town, is a 5th-century Romanesque monastery carved into the native rock. From the abbey, the views of the surrounding countryside are lovely.

Best restaurant: L'Ail...Heure occupies a vaulted stone cave and a terrace under the town's castle. The chef, Luc Andreu, is beginning to build a national reputation in France for his unusual dishes (sea bass with truffles, bull steak, wheat risotto). The French magazine Le Point says the prix-fixe lunch is "like a gift." (48 rue du Chateau, 33/046659-6775)

Where to stay: Hotel Robinson is a rambling white house set in acres of pine woods beside a wide stream. The Blanc family has run the hotel for four generations, which explains the relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. The indoor/outdoor restaurant is very popular with locals for cuisine du terroir (regional cooking).

Don't miss: Seeing a Course Camarguaise in the Beaucaire arena. In this game, athletic young men, dressed completely in white, compete to grab various tokens from the horns of small native bulls. Both the human and taurine competitors become local stars.

How to get here: Beaucaire is 45 minutes west of Marseille Airport over good, modern roads.

Super Summer Savings at ALL Omni Hotels

Still trying to figure out what to do for your summer vacation? It's a little late for that Himalayan adventure you've been talking about, but there's still time to take advantage of an Omni Hotels Ideal Escape package. From now through September 5, 2005, Omni Hotels is offering a 25% discount (per night) on weekend stays at all Omni Hotels. Packages include free breakfast for two each morning, and a personal call prior to the trip from an Omni Concierge who can help customize your weekend stay. Here's a sampling of the discounts at some of Omni's most popular hotels:

$109 at the Omni Houston Hotel at Westside
$169 at the Omni San Francisco Hotel
$179 at the Omni Orlando Resort at ChampionsGate
$199 at the Omni Shoreham in Washington, D.C.
$209 at the Omni Mont-Royal in Montreal

Photo: Lobby of the Omni San Francisco Hotel (Omni Hotels)

Why Hotel When You Can Villa?

Want to go to Italy and wake up in a villa? Heading to the Caribbean but dread the thought of staying at an all-inclusive resort? You're not alone. Thousands of travelers seek the comforts of apartments, houses, condos, and villas while traveling.

A common misconception about renting condos and houses is that the perks of privacy carry a hefty price tag. Actually, renting a three-bedroom house that sleeps six is often cheaper than trying to accommodate the same number at a pricey resort. Plus, renting a house or condo with a kitchen means you can prepare your own food, which saves on costs.

There are dozens of rental websites out there. Here are a few sites that can help you realize holiday bliss:

www.blueescapes.com
This Austin-based outfit features profiles of affordable luxury Caribbean villa rentals on the islands of Anegada, Anguilla, Grenada, St. Barth, St. Croix, St. John, St. Martin, St. Thomas, and Grand Cayman.The site offers personalized services, making it a valuable resource if you are planning a Caribbean wedding or family reunion.

www.summerinitaly.com
This company represents 200 properties along the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Capri, Cliento National Park, and Tuscany.

www.vacationspot.com
Vacationspot.com lists more than 2000 properties, many of them in the United States. The site is easy to navigate and you can register for its "100 Days, 100 Stays" sweepstakes, which will award 100 lucky winners with a free one-week stay at an undisclosed rental property.

www.cyberrentals.com
Cyberrentrals.com has thousands of properties, many of them in the northeastern United States. Some property descriptions include photos and online guest books where visitors can read testimonials of a specific property.

www.viviun.com
This site has a decent selection of rentals in Thailand, New Zealand, and South Africa. For your amusement, we suggest browsing through the site's "castles for sale" listings.
(Katie Hamlin)

Photo Credit: Villa Arundel, Don Hebert

On the Fringe with FringeNYC

Don't fear the Fringe. Yes, much of what you see at the FringeNYC Festival, a two-week performance art showcase, is off-off Broadway stuff, but you'll also find traditional plays and musicals and a lot of generally frothy summer fare.

The festival, running August 12-28, promises 1,300 performances by more than 180 emerging theatre and dance companies from around the world. In addition to theater and performance art, expect dance, children's theater, puppetry, and multimedia programming. Performances take place at 20 venues in Lower Manhattan, but there are also free outdoor performances as well.

A fair amount of the action happens in Washington Square Park, where you can see free productions of Shakespeare's Much Ado About Nothing, performed by the Alaska Theatre Alliance, and where theater and dance companies will offer preview performances of their shows. On weekends, kids can meet actors here at "Fort FringeJr" and learn about the art of performance. There's also "FringeU" for aspiring thespians, offering classes in everything from shameless self-promotion to walking on stilts.

Tickets to all shows are $15 each; multi-show discount passes are available. For more information, call 212-279-4488 (inside NY) or 1-888-FringeNYC (outside NY).

Photo: The cast of Animal Farm Project, a wondrously witty update of Orwell's Animal Farm, to be performed August 12, 13, 14, 16, and 17 as part of the FringeNYC Festival. (photo by Mr. Yoon)

Three Nights for Price of Two in Tahiti

Ever dreamed of plopping yourself down on a white-sand beach under the cooling shade of an undulating palm tree? Robert Louis Stevenson did, and so did Paul Gauguin. Marlon Brando liked Tahiti so much he bought an island in a neighboring archipelago. But why should dead guys have all the fun? Now through June 30, and again October 1 through December 1, Te Tiare Beach, an Outrigger Resort on Tahiti's "garden island" of Huahine, is offering guests three nights for the price of two.

Te Tiare Beach is on the island of Huahine, between Tahiti and Bora Bora. The island is serviced by Air Tahiti, with frequent commuter air service from both Papeete and Bora Bora.

Accommodations include 41 air-conditioned overwater beach and garden bungalows in a spectacular South Pacific setting of quiet lagoons and soul-stirring serenity. The bungalows are spacious, air-conditioned, and come with comfortable rattan furniture, a TV, refrigerator, wet bar, phone, and other amenities.

Island activities include scuba-diving, kayaking, snorkeling, shark-feeding, jet-skiing, deep-sea fishing, sunset boat cruises, water skiing, sailing, bicycling, scooter rentals, and horseback riding. Tours of the island's various historical sites can be arranged, including trips to sacred sites of ancient Polynesian nomadic tribes and the engraved monoliths of the native Ma'ohi people.

Rates range from $320 to $700 per night and are per room for double occupancy. For reservations and information, call 1-800-688-7444 or log on to www.outrigger.com.

The Art of Fine Dining with Kids

by Lisa Oppenheimer

My husband and I are not terribly discriminating when it comes to food. This we learned during a trip to Paris a decade ago when, despite being in the land of coq au vin (chicken in wine), we chose jambon et fromage (ham and cheese) as our preferred local delicacy.

Still, even we of the unsophisticated palate were a little disappointed when we found ourselves with children in Chateau Country, downing burgers at the entirely un-Continental Buffalo Grill (for the record: the French don't actually have a word for "ketchup").

Like other parents of young children, Steve and I discovered that the road to family dining isn't paved with foie gras. But adventures in family dining are looking brighter. Upscale eateries that once shunned children seem to be taking note of families. Need proof? The ultra-swank Aujourd'hui at the Four Seasons Boston actually has a kids' menu that includes hot dogs and French fries. There's no children's menu at Spago Beverly Hills, but the famed Chef Puck stocks some highchairs (no booster seats, though) and can prepare special selections such as plain pasta in a pinch.

That's not to say you should doll the little ones up and take them to the nearest five-star trattoria. But it is an invitation to be a bit more daring---a particularly good idea during vacations when sticking to the food chain (Applebees, Ruby's, Etc.) might shortchange the experience. I mean, the inherent charm of, say, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, is going to be lost if you're dining at Hooters.

Treading unfamiliar culinary territory, including the heady stuff, isn't impossible---it just requires a bit of advance preparation. At the very least you'll want a crayon or pen (two if you have two children) to play hangman. A few other morsels:

Never arrive hungry: Famished children are notoriously miserable children. and Murphy's Law dictates that the hungriest customers will be served last. While you'd ordinarily save their appetites for the main course, avert disaster with bread, crackers, or your ever-present stash of Cheerios or graham crackers---served from your knockoff Chanel clutch, natch.

Be creative: Many restaurants will be happy to adjust grown-up meals---Linguini without the clam sauce, Chicken Parmesan without the parmesan (but maybe with ketchup). Ask before you sit down to see how flexible they are, and be prepared to perhaps pay grown-up prices.

Dine early: A reservation after about 7:30, particularly at a fashionable dining spot, is going to produce tired children---and perhaps unhappy looks from the fashionable crowd around you. Who needs that kind of pressure? The early-bird hour is a much better bet all around.

Be realistic: My own children are well-mannered diners, but not the type for Spago Beverly Hills. Specialty dining such as that requires a special kind of kid, one who enjoys dressing up, can sit relatively still and is entertained by conversation. Save yourself the stress of trying to mold your child into something he or she is not. On the other hand, you may have the most well-behaved cherubs on the planet, but that will be irrelevant if the restaurant doesn't want them. "We don't prohibit children, but we don't recommend bringing them," is a hint. Take it and move on.

Let them eat cake: Small children (and even big ones like me) know chocolate and sugar as their two favorite foods. To try dining in peace, feed the kids their main dish before your dinner reservation (perhaps via room service) and let them eat dessert while you enjoy dinner. It may raise a few eyebrows among your fellow diners, but as long as they're well behaved, who cares?

Keep your sense of humor: The gourmet macaroni and cheese made with real cheddar and parmesan might be unappealing---it probably pales next to the freeze-dried cheese-food product they get at home. Whatever the cause of a meltdown, take heed of the hapless diners around you, pay your bill and leave. You can slowly relish the boxed-up food back in your hotel room after the kids have gone to bed.

If all else fails, try takeout: On our French escape, we bought some fixings at a local boulangerie and enjoyed the fare al fresco, albeit at the playground. Without the stress of the full-service meal, the girls became adventurous enough to sample a new flavor or two---and actually enjoyed them. Bon Apetit!

Where to Find the Weird and Wacky

If you've ever wanted to see Elvis's childhood home, or stand at the exact spot where James Dean died in a car accident, you might want to check out DriveAbouts, the latest addition to Hampton Inn & Suites' nifty Landmarks guide. DriveAbouts allows you to search all 50 states for famous and infamous locales. All the conventional stuff you'd expect to find is here, like how to find the theatre where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated, but there are also unusual things related to sports, art, literature, and popular culture in America. Granted, knowing the location of the house used in The Brady Bunch isn't as important as knowing where to find Frank Lloyd Wright's home in Chicago, but you have to admire the guide's all-inclusiveness. Here are some sample links:

Arizona Meteor Crater

Black Dahlia Murder Case

Led Zeppelin Album Cover

Birthplace of the Egg McMuffin

Patty Hearst Abduction Site

Eurofly: Non-Charter Service to Naples, Palermo from NYC

Italophiles can rejoice: travelers to three of Italy's most popular regions---Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, and Emilia-Romagna---will be spending a lot less time in airports this summer. Last month, Italian carrier Eurofly began direct, regularly scheduled service from New York City to Naples, Bologna, and Palermo. Eurofly is the first non-charter airline in decades to serve these cities nonstop from the US.

For the remainder of the summer, Eurofly will offer three flights per week on wide body Airbus jets to Naples (that route is quickly selling out) and Bologna, and one New York-Palermo flight per week. At last check, Eurofly's prices were a few hundred dollars less than the high-season fares on competing airlines. September and October trips look like even more of a bargain, beginning at $399 for a New York-Bologna round-trip in Economy.

You'll have to book directly through Eurofly (www.euroflyusa.com, or call 800-459-0581 from 9-5) to get on these flights; the airline has yet to sign up with Expedia or other online travel agencies. ---Robin Goldstein

New York Restaurant Week Extended

If you're heading to New York City in the next few weeks and eating well is high on your to-do list, you're in luck. The city's Summer Restaurant Week, which started back on June 20, has been extended through September 5. Eighty-five restaurants will continue to offer special three-course, prix fixe menus, Monday through Friday. Lunch lavishly for $20.12; dinners run $35.

The Restaurant Week menu is not available for lunch and dinner at all participating restaurants, and it is strongly recommended that you call the restaurant ahead of time to check availability. Beverage, tax and gratuity are additional. Check the program's website for more details.

Click on the featured restaurants below to see the ratings of our users:

Aquavit Cafe Artisanal Barbetta Bolo Cafe Boulud Cafe des Artistes Dumonet

Estiatoro Milos Lenox Room The Mercer Kitchen Montrachet Palm Restaurant West Side Payard Patisserie & Bistro

Petrossian Restaurant RainTamarind Tribeca Grill Victor's Cafe Vong Water's Edge Restaurant

Photo Credits: (top) Courtesy of Cafe des Artistes

Other related stories:

World's 50 Greatest Restaurants
A Foodie Tour of New York City

Mona Lisa's New (Old) Home

If you're planning a Da Vinci Code tour of Paris, you'll be interested to know that Leonardo's Mona Lisa has a new home. As of last month the world's most famous painting no longer hangs in the Grand Gallery of the Denon Wing, as reported in Dan Brown's bestselling novel. Following years of preparation and planning, museum officials have finally moved the painting down the hall to the Salle des Etats, where Mona hung from 1966 to 2001.

According to a story in ARTnews, the painting now rests in a sealed enclosure with "temperature and humidity control behind 1.52-inch-thick nonreflective glass," and the space around the enclosure is behind a wood railing. The move was made for several reasons, not the least of which is that the Salle des Etats is larger than the Grand Gallery and can more easily accommodate the 6 million-plus visitors who traipse through the museum annually to see the painting.

Travel to Antarctica---No, Really!

It's going to be a while before any of us can easily travel to Mars, but if you'd like to experience Mars-like conditions on earth, you might consider Antarctica, that frigid, ice-bound clime due south of Argentina.

Mars-like, you say? Well, consider this: Temperatures in some parts of the White Continent have been known to dip below minus 60 degrees, while in other parts the thermometer never climbs above minus 30. In fact, icy conditions here are so similar to those on Mars that NASA used Antarctica to test equipment for its Viking Mars missions.

If dodging icebergs in sub-zero weather is your cup of tea, you'll be happy to know that Norwegian Coastal Voyage Expeditions is hosting Antarctica cruises from Buenos Aires beginning in November aboard the MS Nordkapp and MS Nordnorge. The boats, each built within the last 10 years, are limited to 350 persons and have Jacuzzis, saunas, suites, lounges, Internet cafes, and more. The 15-day adventure cruises take voyagers to the world's southernmost city, Ushuaia, Argentina; through dramatic Drake's Passage; the Antarctic Peninsula's polar landscapes; desolate Cape Horn; the Strait of Magellan; and the rugged, fjord-filled Chilean coast. Depending on weather, landings in Antarctica include Paradise Harbor, Half Moon, and the Cuverville Islands. There'll also be plenty of opportunities to sail past ice bergs and glaciers and to get a close up look at penguins, elephant seals, and seabirds. Prices start at $4,980 (per person double occupancy) and include Lan flights from New York to Buenos Aires plus five-star hotel stay in Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, and Santiago. For more information, call 800/323-7436 or 212/319-1300.

Just Back From Québec City

Editorial director Linda Cabasin spent five music-filled days in Québec City earlier this month. She explored the cobblestone streets of Vieux-Québec during the day and at night attended the Festival d'Été de Québec (Québec City Summer Festival), an exuberant outdoor celebration of French and world music.

Why Québec City?

The combination of music and setting was unbeatable. The Summer Festival offered a mind-expanding lineup (I knew only a few performers), from Montréal pop-punk group Simple Plan to Algerian-French rock and rai singer Rachid Taha, who had everyone dancing at the Parc de la Francophonie. As for the setting, the concerts were just outside the romantic, walled old town, which overlooks the St. Laurent River.

What surprised you?

It was easy to walk from concert to concert each night, sampling the three outdoor stages and street performances on rue St-Jean. The Summer Festival is large---45,000 people watched Simple Plan on the Plains of Abraham---but the venues were a 10- or 15-minute walk apart. My festival button (a bargain at US $16.50 for 11 days) admitted me at any time. The mostly local crowd was all ages and totally mellow. And since music really is a universal language, I didn't need to understand French (or the Spanish of Lila Downs or Ojos de Brujo) to appreciate the performers.

What was essential during your trip?

Comfortable shoes. Not just for the performances, but because I couldn't stop walking around Québec City. Inside the walls, each turn revealed tidy parks, local crafts shops or boutiques, quiet churches---and sometimes busloads of tourists! Dufferin Terrace in the Upper Town had awesome river and mountain views, and I walked down the Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Steps) to the Lower Town and historic Place Royale. The distances aren't great, but they add up. The funicular took me back to the Upper Town if I wore down.

What were your favorite finds?

At a Lower Town wine bar on a narrow street called Cul de Sac, I sat outside and cooled off with Québec beer and tangy local cheeses. It was a perfect break. And at the Musée de la Civilisation (Museum of Civilization), the exhibit "People of Québec, Now and Then" put everything I saw in the city into better perspective. Displays and videos with news clips and interviews gave a quick, provocative history of Québec Province from its French colonial days to its separatist fervor in the late 20th century.

What advice do you have for someone going to Québec City?

My instinct is to avoid cities when big festivals are going on, but I'd recommend a trip during the Summer Festival or another event here. It doesn't matter if you don't know the musicians. Check the festival Web site in advance, then go and have fun. Or try the Winter Carnival to see how Canadians play in the cold. It's easy to fit in other activities around the events. Just make room reservations two or three months in advance or you'll have to stay farther from the city center.

Photo 1: Linda is in front of the Hotel Château Frontenac in Lower Town.

Photo 2: Shops along the Rue du Petit-Champlain.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Prague
  
• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Flying with Kids? Read This First

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Anyone who has ever flown with a small child can attest to the challenges. Take one toddler, put him in an enclosed space, make him sit still for three or more hours, and voila: unhappy camper.

Still, it is possible to navigate the friendly skies with child and your sanity. It's mostly a matter of thinking ahead.

For starters, reserve early. Not only will you get a better seat---preferably together (unless you were secretly hoping to seat the kids elsewhere)---but you'll also reduce your odds of getting bumped since unassigned passengers are usually the first to go.

Think about getting everyone a seat, too. Though children under age two can sit on a parent's lap, it's ill advised, if not for safety, than for convenience. "My kids were so used to sitting in their seats in the car," says my friend Tammy, "that it never dawned on them to ask to get out." Some airlines, such as American, offer discounts for the under-2 set, so ask when making reservations.

As for where to sit: some parents swear by the infamous bulkhead seats with that smidgen of extra legroom. The downside is that there's no under-seat storage, which means you'll have to jump up every time you want to retrieve something from your bag. Some airlines only dole them out at the gate, others pre-assign bulkheads for frequent fliers, but it never hurts to ask.

Some other tricks of air travel:

Be prepared: Bring an extra set of clothes for parent and child, and a plastic bag for the dirty ones. Pack more diapers and wipes than you think you'll need. I once used my entire supply waiting through a lengthy flight delay.

Feed 'em: Snacks and drinks and a few treats will keep your novice flier happy with minimal reliance on flight attendants. Bring something to suck or chew on (bottles and pacifiers for little ones) for pressure changes during takeoff and landing. Keep a tight lid on beverage-service drinks by packing sippy cups from home. Food service has been diminished drastically since the old days. You can always ask in advance about the rare on-board kids' meal (although expect to be laughed at).

Keep 'em busy: On board entertainment options have improved with satellite TV on many carriers (check the entertainment schedule on your home computer before flying), but the fare is not always appropriate for kids. Better yet, be crafty. Bring crayons, markers, coloring books, paper, pens, and pencils. Want to make your pre-schooler really happy? Bring Scotch Tape. My kids spent an entire three-hour flight creating tape-sculptures. Decks of cards and favorite books are great time passers, as are personal music players and books on tape. Travel games are a bonus, but beware of those "Pop-o-Matic" gizmos that rattle the passenger in front of you every time you press down. Wrap a few inexpensive trinkets to hand out as gifts at desperate moments.

Make pit stops: Hit the bathroom before the "Fasten Seatbelt Sign" is lit for the last time. The time between initial descent and arrival at the gate can be an eternity---especially if your potty-training toddler has to go to the bathroom.

Arrive early: You definitely don't want to try and sprint through the airport with bags and kids. In the same vein: ensure when making reservations that you have ample time between connections.

Avoid spills: Don't order anything red or purple unless it's in a sippy cup. This includes tomato juice, Bloody Marys, red wine, and even colas.

Keep a tight rein: It's one thing to take your child for a walk down the aisle, another to let him run loose. Air travelers generally frown on children staring at them while they're trying to sleep---or torturing them with endless unsolicited games of peek-a-boo. And please . . . no kicking the seat back.

Finally, if you've done everything and still can't tame your savage beast, take heart. True, you may get some withering stares as your little one tests his lung capacity, but you're doing your best. And even if your fellow passengers don't have children of their own, those passengers were kids themselves once---probably.

Now it's time for that glass of wine---just remember to get white.

Fuss-Free Family Reunions

by Lisa Oppenheimer

On paper, it was a brilliant idea. My brother and I, residents of opposite coasts, planned a family reunion several years ago that would allow spouses and children to get to know each other. A theme park would be perfect. We'd ride the rides by day, enjoy quiet time with wine and cheese by night. What is it they say about the best-laid plans?

On our first day at California's Legoland, we waited 45 minutes together for our inaugural ride. That was the last time we saw each other. Four children with multiple interests kept our families apart virtually the rest of the trip. And we made a crucial error: We didn't share accommodations, which kept us from even catching up at bedtime. Meaningful conversations? They took place late at night---via telephone. For that, I could have stayed home and forked over a nickel a minute to Verizon.

It's not that our little rendezvous was bad, it just wasn't the warm, fuzzy gathering we'd hoped for. While it would seem that reunions require no more than finding the place and assembling the family in it, there is really more of a science to it than that. The following are some things to keep in mind if you're planning a reunion:

Ponder the Age Spread

"You want to go somewhere that has activities for all ages," says Pam Brown, a specialist in family reunions at Gatherings Plus (reunionpro.com) in Branson, Missouri.

Our first mistake, she says, was failing to take into account the age spread of our charges. Two school-aged girls (mine) and two preschool boys (theirs) meant widely divergent theme-park interests---not to mention height restrictions. Rides that were suitable for the younger ones were deemed "boring" by the others. And who could begrudge any of them skipping long lines that held no reward at the other end?

A better idea would have been a more placid environment---a beach, perhaps---that we could have enjoyed as a group. However, as Brown concurs, you don't want to overdo the group dynamic, either. If you have everyone in the same place all the time, you're going to get sick of each other.

A more successful gathering would have built-in options for different ages, with set meeting times for the group. A theme park might work as a day trip for teens who can go off on their own. You might take young children to the zoo, older children to a water park, and then meet up later for dinner.

Consider a Villa

You'll see each other most if you share the same accommodations. But such closed quarters can be tricky. Sharing one roof, depending on the size of your group, might be best accomplished at some sort of a villa. Sure, it's a splurge. But in Jamaica, for example, many multi-bedroom villas come with pool and staff (food, laundry, etc.), satisfying myriad requirements. That you'll likely be removed from the cloistered resort atmosphere (as most villas are) might make some visitors uncomfortable.

Closer to home, many a reunion has been staged in and around Walt Disney World. Mickey himself rents out villas for up to 12 travelers in two on-site timeshare properties (just be sure to take into account the above tips for theme-park visiting). You'll get a kitchen and laundry plus resort perks.

Many such setups exist in lake districts around the country. Woodloch Pines, in the Poconos, rents two- to five-bedroom houses as well as more traditional hotel rooms (homes are about two miles away from the resort; call 800/572—6658 for information). You also will find limitless online listings for villas and other domiciles. Some companies will weed through this information for you. At Cyberrentals.com, for example, you can search for available properties worldwide.

If you do go villa, decide in advance who gets the master suite. If you cannot reach a decision, donate it to some of the older kids; among other things, you'll love the fact that their war-torn bathroom will be blissfully out of sight.

Reunion Rules

No matter what you do, consider the following advice.

Integrate down time. Swimming holes---pool, ocean, puddle---are perfect spots for grownups to catch up while kids entertain themselves (with supervision, of course). For especially large groups, Brown likes to book a hospitality room as neutral territory where the gang can retreat to eat, gab, and relax.

The latter, of course, will require a caterer---and a hotel. True, the hotel route might detract from the homey feel of family-style meals around the table, but it also eliminates arguments over who does the cooking, grocery shopping, and cleaning. "Doing all the work," says Brown, "is a great way to ruin a vacation."

Strive for equidistance. It might not always be possible. But it will be worth it to keep Uncle George from seething because he flew seven connections from Maine while Aunt Martha drove only six miles from Dubuque.

Arrange child care. You want to keep kids entertained, or they're going to drive everybody nuts. Enough said.

Plan ahead. If you want to see a show and you're planning to sit with your relatives (rather than alongside the beer-scented man with the postnasal drip), you need to book the seats well in advance. Brown books hotels, flights, and other arrangements months, even years, ahead; she and other service providers can keep you posted about tickets for activities and attractions as they become available.

Bring mementos and photos to create a family tree. Assemble the tree in a common area, such as a hospitality room. It will be a blast to create and look at throughout the reunion. Before you all scatter to the four winds, you can make a family activity out of turning the tree into a souvenir book and then photocopying it for everyone. If you have the opportunity to develop photos shot during the reunion before you all disperse, all the better to add these to the scrapbook.

Shoot a good group photo. Amateur shutterbugs are fine, but chipping in for the hiring of a professional photographer is money well spent.

15 Top Shops in Montreal

There's never a bad time to shop in Montreal. During the typically harsh Canadian winter, Montrealers escape to the Cite Souterrain, a 7-square block "underground city" in downtown. Come spring and summer, avid shoppers head aboveground to scour the boutiques for all that the city's youthful creative scene has to offer---avant-garde fashions, hand-crafted jewelry, antiques, leather goods, and sleek home furnishings.

Garments & Fancy Footwear

The cutting-edge fashions sold at Scandale are all originals created on-site by Quebecois designer Georges Levesque. In keeping with the name, the window displays are always lurid. 3639 blvd. St-Laurent. 514/842-4707.

The three expert kiltmakers on hand at Chas. Johnson & Sons can cut any tartan to any size. The shop also rents Highland formal gear for all occasions and sells sporrans, skean-dhus, doublets, and day jackets, as well as a full line of classic British menswear. 1184 Phillips Pl. 514/878-1931.

Jean Airoldi, the shop that bears the name of one of Quebec's most talented clothing designers, specializes in classic yet chic women's fashions. Made-to-measure is available. 4455 rue St-Denis. 514/287-6524.

As its name suggests, Deuxieme Peau (Second Skin) sells lingerie so fine you don't notice you're wearing it. While you're feeling brave and beautiful, kill two birds with one stone and try on a bathing suit. 4457 rue St-Denis. 514/842-0811.

In business for about 50 years, Boutique Encore has retained its popularity by maintaining a good selection of designer labels. Although best known for its nearly new women's fashions, it also includes the big names for men. 2165 rue Crescent. 514/849-0092.

Browns is a local institution that stocks fashion footwear, handbags, and accessories for men and women. As well as the store's own label, it stocks such well-known brands as Manolo Blahnik, Prada, Chanel, DKNY, Costume National, Dolce Gabana, Christian Dior, and Tods. 1191 rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. 514/987-1206.

Smelly Stuff

The soaps, shampoos, and body lotions on offer at Bella Pella are all handmade by area artisans, using organic ingredients such as olive oil, goats' milk, and cranberries. 3933 rue St-Denis. 514/845-7328.

Child's Play

Cutesy Oink Oink carries fashions as well as toys and books for infants and children. It's fun to hear the staff answer the phone. 1343 av. Greene. 514/939-2634.

At Cerf Volanterie, you can pick up a sturdy, gloriously colored kite built by craftsman Claude Thibaudeau. He signs the kites and guarantees them for three years. Visits are by appointment only. 2019 Moreau. 514/845-7613.

Home Interiors

In business since 1983, Antiquities Phyllis Friedman specializes in 17th- to 19th-century English and European antiques. Offerings include English hunt tables, Empire-style nightstands, Anglo-Irish glass, ceramics, and crystal. 1476 rue Sherbrooke Ouest. 514/935-1991.

Nostalgic for the 1950s? Cite Deco is just the place to pick up a chrome-and-Arborite dining-room set and an RCA tube radio. It also has art deco furnishings and accessories from the '30s and '40s. 1761 rue Amherst. 514/528-0659.

Ruth Stalker made her reputation finding and salvaging fine pieces of early-Canadian pine furniture, but she has also developed a good instinct for such folk art as exquisitely carved hunting decoys, weather vanes, and pottery. 4447 rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. 514/931-0822.

The Written Word

With its selection of imported and handmade papers, L'Essence du Papier is a reminder that letter-writing can be an art form. Here, scribblers can finds pens, as well as waxes and stamps with which to seal their romantic prose. 4160 rue St-Denis. 514/288-9691.

Stubbornly independent until 2003 when it was bought out by Archambault, a Montréal chain of music stores, Paragraphe carries the usual selection of best sellers and thrillers, but also stocks Canadian works and histories. 2220 av. McGill College. 514/845-5811.

Deep in the McGill University neighborhood, The Word is a timeless shop with sagging shelves that specializes in used books on art, philosophy, and literature. The owner here tallies his bills by hand. 469 rue Milton. 514/845-5640.

Offbeat New England Getaways

Innkeepers these days are resorting to increasingly dotty measures to lure customers. In fact, the New England Inns and Resorts Association recently bestowed honors upon some of the more creative "packages" that B&B owners in their region have devised to drum up business. Here are a few of the more memorable ones:

At Dunes on the Waterfront, in Ogunquit, Maine, travelers can sign up for the Lights, Camera, Action package, wherein a "cameraman" with a videocam follows guests around and "unobtrusively" records their vacation. The resulting DVD is sent to guests two weeks later. The three-night package is available in September and starts at $399 per person (including DVD), double occupancy.

Guests at Avon Old Farms Hotel, in Avon, Connecticut, can go on a treasure hunt in the surrounding countryside in search of various objects that, when found, result in 5% discounts per object on the nightly room rate. The items in question aren't too exotic, though we admit we'd be hardpressed to identify such things as "rubbings from an 18th-century gravestone" and a "signature from the town auctioneer." The Farmington Valley Treasure Adventure Package starts at $199 per night.

Our personal favorite is the Tax & Relax Package at the Dutch Iris Inn in Granby, Connecticut (pictured). For a mere $249 per night you can stay in this handsome Colonial-style mansion and have your taxes done by a CPA while you nosh on canapes and sip sherry. What could possibly be more civilized? If the news is good and a hefty refund is on the way, treat yourself to a massage and sauna. If the news is bad, you can draw the black-out curtains in your room and immerse yourself in hours of mindless digital cable.

Guests of The Colonnade Hotel in Boston may wish for a sudden cold snap when they sign up for Summer Meltdown Package. Guests pay $225 for the second night, and the equivalent dollar value of the outside temperature on their first night (so, if it's 90 degrees outside, the cost is $90). The package is available through September 4, 2005.

Travelers can entertain their inner chef when they sign up for the Chef for a Day Package at the Woodstock Inn & Resort in Woodstock, Vermont. The idea here is that guests get to hover alongside the resort's chefs as they prepare the dining room's nightly dinners (we wonder if the proprietor's insurance carrier knows about this). The package is available year-round and starts at $693 per person. Bon appetit!

Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Underground medieval grottos, an elevator, a department store, and Room 206 of the Caledonian Hilton Hotel are just a few of the unorthodox venues of the 58th Annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Performing in non-traditional spaces blurs distinctions between performers and audiences, resulting in a powerful intimacy for both.

The Fringe website features comprehensive listings of all of the festival's offerings plus information on purchasing tickets. Here are a few things you won't want to miss:

Carey Marx swears that his one-man show Marry Me is more sophisticated than the sordid world of reality television's shotgun weddings. Marx's chaotic dating life is the show's fodder, and according to his website, the show is "a tasteful endeavor being carried out by someone who can be quite tasteless." August 4-28, 7 p.m., The Underbelly.

Jim Crace's novel, The Devil's Larder, serves up 64 short fictions intent on showcasing culinary indulgences and the many constructions of the human appetite. The sensual storytelling will be brought to life for the stage promenade-style at Debenham's department store by Edinburgh-based Grid Iron Company. August 9-28, 8:15 p.m., Debenham's at 109 Prince Street.

In dance troupe CoisCéim's Chamber Made the audience should enjoy "peeking in" on the lives of six guests in Room 206. The close-quartered venue is as voyeuristic as it gets. Buy tickets early. August 20-27 (times vary), Room 206 of the Caledonian Hilton Hotel.

Making use of her inherited funny gene, Rain Pryor, daughter of comedian Richard Pryor, takes to the stage in her one-woman comedy show, Fried Chicken and Latkes. August 4-28, 8 p.m., Smirnoff Baby Belly.---Katie Hamlin

Photo Credit: Courtesy of the Fringe Festival

Edinburgh International Festival

Though some shows have already sold out, seats are still available for most performances (tickets can be purchased on the festival website). Fifty seats will be held for 5£ each hour before the start of every festival event. Tickets for selected events can also be purchased in advance at a reduced price of 5£ for youths aged 16-26.

Here's a sampling of the festival offerings:

Theatre

Shan Kahn's Prayer Room, performed by the Birmingham Repertory Theatre Company, has been the focus of media attention because of its subject matter. Attempting to share a multi-faith prayer room of a British college, a group of Jews, Muslims, and Christians struggle over issues of power, space, and voice. August 22-28, 7:30 p.m.; August 27, 2:30 p.m. Royal Lyceum Theatre.

Fifteen years after the end of an affair, an adulterous couple must reunite in David Harrower's Blackbird, an Edinburgh International Festival Production. The influential German director Peter Stein, who headed the 2003 festival production of The Seagull, leads this "darkly intense" production. August 15-24, 7:30 p.m.; August 20, 2:30; King's Theatre.

Chiew Siah Tei's Three Thousand Troubled Threads depicts the world of a young second-generation Chinese girl struggling against the conflicting influences of her cultural heritage and Glasgow society. Performed by the Stellar Quines Theatre Company, the play explores these issues through her relationships with her Slovakian boyfriend, her mother, and her Italian boss. August 31-September 3, 7:30 p.m., Royal Lyceum Theatre.

When John Millington Synge's The Playboy of the Western World was first performed in 1907, audience members responded with hissing and rioting. Synge infuriated Irish patriots with his crude portrayal of the Irish peasantry. Over time, the works of the Irish dramatist have earned him more admirers than enemies. This year the festival will feature a marathon retrospective of all six of Synge's plays. On three occasions, the whole lot can be seen in one day. All shows at King's Theatre. The complete series: August 27, 31, September 3.

Emerald Isle Getaways Starting at $179

It's never too late to start dreaming about the perfect Emerald Isle getaway. Aer Lingus is making it easier than ever to visit Ireland with terrific one-way fares starting at $179 from Boston and $189 from New York to Shannon or Dublin.

These one-way fares are available exclusively through Aerlingus, must be booked by August 1, 2005 and are for travel in September and October only.

$199/Boston Sept. 6 - Sept. 30
$179/Boston Oct. 1 - Oct. 15

$229/NYC Sept. 5 - Sept. 30
$189/NYC Oct. 1 - Oct. 15

Palm Beach: Splurge and Save at The Breakers

It seems like every town in America near a beach has a hotel called The Breakers. There's really only one The Breakers worth mentioning, however, and it's the spectacle of gilt and ormolu that Standard Oil magnate Henry Flagler built in Palm Beach in 1896.

On the National Register of Historic Places, this opulent 560-room, Italian Renaissance-style resort, sitting on 140 ocean-front acres, has cupids frolicking in Florentine fountains, majestic frescoes, soothing gardens, and glitteringchandeliers. It's Jay Gatsby's image of luxe Europa, only in Palm Beach.

You can sample the good life, too, with the resort's summer promotion, running now through September 30, 2005. For a three- or four-night stay in a standard superior room you pay $209 per night (a 27% savings). Stay five nights or more and the room rate drops to $189 (a 34% savings). A premium full oceanfront room (pictured right), priced for summer at $390 per night on stays of one to two nights is discounted to $356 per night for a three- or four-night stay, and then drops to $322 for stays of five nights or more.

The Breakers's promotion also includes complimentary spa fitness classes and tennis court fees as well as reduced golf rates at two courses. Guests can also enjoy 20% off dinner checks at The Breakers's exceptional restaurants L'Escalier, The Flagler Steakhouse, and Echo, as well as a 20% discount on Sunday brunch at The Circle (pictured right).

An Italian Renaissance treasure like The Breakers hardly seems like a family destination, but the resort's Family Entertainment Center upends expectations with a games arcade, toddler's playroom, a children's movie room, and a computer X-box room featuring desktop PCs and child-friendly games.

For reservations and additional information, call 1-888-273-2537 or visit www.thebreakers.com.

On the Go with the Go Card

If you're traveling to Boston, Chicago, Orlando, San Francisco, San Diego, or Seattle this summer, don't go without the Go Card. Think of it as the Whitman Sampler of attraction passes. One price lets you taste dozens of major sights in each city, from the most popular to the most obscure. The card is available for 1, 2, 3, 5, or 7 days, depending on the length of your stay (lack of interest in 4- and 6-day cards resulted in their demise), and there are discount cards for children. Sample sights for the Go San Francisco Card include the SF Museum of Modern Art, a Golden Gate Bay Cruise, the Asian Art Museum, and Six Flags Marine World, among many others. With the Go Boston Card you gain access to all major museums, historic sites like the Freedom Trail, and attractions such as Six Flags New England and Zoo New England. Prices for each card vary by city and each card is good for 20% discounts at select restaurants and stores. Go Cards are available on-line (you pay for shipping) or at city tourist offices or visitor bureaus.

One day sample prices for the Go Card
Boston $45
Chicago $39
Orlando $79
San Francisco $44
San Diego $39 (available June 10)
Seattle $39

Ireland Souvenir Shopping Made Easy

There's nothing like a souvenir to capture the essence of a great trip, but a trinket you picked up randomly on a three-hour tour might not cut it. If you're headed to the Emerald Isle soon, pass over the cheesy gifts of the four-leaf clover and leprechaun variety. Here are some souvenir ideas unique to Ireland that will leave you with fond memories of your trip:

1. Wooly Wear

Have your heart set on a traditional Aran Island sweater? Most of the Aran Sweaters in Ireland are made in County Donegal, the area most associated with high-quality, hand-woven tweeds and hand-knit items. A visit to any of the Aran Islands, however, will yield plenty of opportunities for the genuine article. If you're pressed for time, you can pick one up at Blarney Woolen Mills, a massive shop convenient to the Blarney Castle, which sells everything from Irish-made high fashion to Aran hand-knit items to leprechaun key rings. (Blarney, Co. Cork, 021/438 5280)

2. Your "Special Occasion" Crystal

Waterford Crystal is readily available in both Europe and the U.S., but for lovers of the high-grade glass a stop at the Waterford Glass Factory is a must. There, you can see master craftspeople at work, fashioning the molten glass, blowing it into bulbous shapes, and then cutting and carving the light-catching facets that make the crystal so unique. The showroom displays an extensive selection of Waterford crystal and Wedgwood china. (Cork Rd., Kilbarry, 353 51/332500)

3. Heraldic Crests

If you have Irish roots, you can learn all about your name and buy an item with its heraldic crest---from key rings to crystal to sweaters---at Killarney's House of Names (Kenmare Pl., Killarney, Co. Kerry, 064/36320).

With a little research you might be able to track more detailed info about your family history. The National Library in Dublin is the best source of information on family names and family crests, and the consultancy service is free. Similarly, the Office of the Registrar General in Dublin's Custom House has details of many births, deaths, and marriages after 1864, and some marriages dating back to 1845. Of course, if your great-grandfather's name was Blarney Killakalarney you should have an easy time sleuthing your family roots. But if your name is one of the more prominent surnames in Ireland, it may take you longer to track down your ancestors among all of the Ahernes and O'Briens.

4. Something Crafty and Creative

The area around the Southeast's Kilkenny is well-stocked with small and large shops featuring various forms of ceramics and hand-blown glass.

Nicholas Mosse Pottery is the best name in Irish ceramics. Nicholas first set up his potter's wheel in an old flour mill in this quiet village (set 10 miles south of Kilkenny) in 1975. Since then, the business has boomed and the rustic floral-pattern pottery created here is instantly recognizable for its "spongeware" designs. A visit here allows you to see the pottery being made, and the adjoining factory shop often has good bargains. (Bennettsbridge, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-7505)

You can see glass being blown at the Jerpoint Glass Studio, where the glass is heavy, modern, uncut, and hand-finished. The studio's factory shop is a good place to pick up a bargain. (Stoneyford, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-4350)

The town's leading outlet, the Kilkenny Design Centre, in the old stable yard opposite the castle, sells ceramics, jewelry, sweaters, and hand-woven textiles. (Kilkenny Castle, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-2118)

5. Irish Lit

Ireland produced four Nobel literature laureates in under 75 years. If you're at all interested in modern and contemporary literature, you'll be spoiled by the many independent bookshops that dot the country. Kenny's Bookshop, featuring five floors of books is one of the best. A Galway institution, Kenny's is presided over by octogenarian Maureen Kenny, who has a smile for everyone. She and her late husband started the business in 1940. (High St., Galway City, 091/562-739)

6. A Souvenir to Hang

When giving visitors "the tour" of your home, wouldn't it be nice to say, "We were fortunate to find this piece on our trip to Ireland."

Kenmare Art Gallery has a good selection of works by contemporary artists. (Bridge St., Kenmare, Co. Kerry, 064/4299)

Original Print Gallery, in an ultramodern building by the same prominent Dublin architect who designed Temple Bar Gallery, specializes in handmade limited editions of prints by Irish artists. (4 Temple Bar, Dublin, 677/3657)

The Lavit Gallery in Cork sells work by members of the Cork Arts Society and other Irish artists. (5 Father Mathew St., off South Mall, City Center South, 021/427-7749)

7. Dublin: Ireland's Milan

There are a great many sophisticated boutiques in Dublin, most of them in the city's central shopping area.

Costume is a classy boutique where Dubliners with fashion sense and money like to shop for colorful, stylish clothes. Local designers include Leigh, Helen James, and Antonia Campbell-Hughes are among the international designers featured. (10 Castel Market, 01/679-4188)

Jenny Vander is the most famous name in Irish vintage and retro clothing. Just browsing through her collection is a pleasure. (Georges Street Arcade, 01/677-0406)

8. An Irish Pinocchio

While touring Belfast, stop by Open Window Productions to buy 12-inch-high puppets of Northern Ireland politicians. For £175, you can have a puppet made to order of a favorite celebrity, or even of yourself. (1-3 Exchange Pl., 028/9032-9669)

9. All Things Guinness

Ireland's all-dominating brewery---founded by Arthur Guinness in 1759---spans a 60-acre spread west of Christ Church Cathedral. Not surprisingly, the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse is the most popular tourist destination in town. The brewery itself is closed to the public, but the Guinness Storehouse is a spectacular attraction, designed to woo you with the wonders of the "dark stuff." (St. James' Gate, Dublin, 01/408-4800)

10. Gifts for Golfers

A set of golf balls imprinted with the crest of any of Ireland's "Big Four" golf courses (Ballybunion, Royal County Down, Royal Portrush, and Portmarnock Golf Clubs) is a thoughtful gift for the golf enthusiast.

Cheap Sleeps in an Irish Castle

Today's travelers are increasingly hungry for new and unusual places to rest their heads while on the road. In Montreal, for instance, you can stay overnight in a one-time prison, and apparently tree houses are all the rage in Zambia. We're all for exotic lodgings, but only if the place has a few creature comforts. American Airlines Vacations is aware of the trend for novelty lodgings. This summer and fall, AAVAcations wants to send you to Ireland to stay in one of four renovated Irish castles, and for less than you'd expect to pay at most three-star hotels. Here's the skinny:

Kilkea Castle, Kildare: Built in 1180, the Kilkea is the oldest inhabited castle in Ireland. But don't let all the history scare you off---you can expect to find all the amenities and comforts of home while here, from fine dining to a complete leisure center with swimming pool, sauna, gym, steam room, golf, tennis, and more.
3 days/2 nights from $278*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 9/30/05

Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Club, Ballinakill: The antiques, period decor, and delicate details of this magnificent castle will captivate the imagination. The Great Hall and the drawing room have fine oak paneling, ornate antique furniture, and tapestries. Guest rooms are luxuriously decorated and have four-poster beds. Enjoy country-style cuisine at the Munster Room restaurant, adorned with oak furniture and deep-burgundy Donegal carpet.
3 days/2 nights from $557*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 10/31/05

Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus: Dromoland Castle Estate is one of the world's finest castle hotels, a secluded property majestically set on more than 410 acres of breathtaking scenery. Guests enjoy deluxe accommodations, sample fine food and wine, unwind in superb health and leisure facilities, or play golf on a championship golf course.
3 days/2 nights from $585*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 9/30/05

Cahernane House Hotel, Killarney: Cahernane House sits on the edge of Killarney National Park, an area of outstanding beauty. This graceful and stately home is brimming with historic character. Recent restorations have successfully combined elegant luxury with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Rooms are tastefully designed with antique furniture, private balconies, and Jacuzzis.
3 days/2 nights from $317*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid 7/1/05-9/30/05

* Pricing provided by AA Vacations (www.AAVacations.com). Price is per person, double occupancy; land only, not including airfare.

Travelers can contact their travel agent or American Airlines Vacations directly at 1-800-321-2121 or visit www.AAVacations.com to search for and book the best bargains and promotions.

Hoist Big Brews on Original Ireland Pub Tour

What are you doing in November? Dodging rain drops and noshing on parched turkey in Aunt Ethel's overheated living room? How about something different, like a pub tour of Galway and Dublin?

Don't laugh. Hundreds do it every year. The tour, sponsored by Aer Lingus, starts in historic Galway and wends its way through watering holes and fishing villages in Connemara and the Burren region before ending in Ireland's capital city, Dublin, where you can hoist pints in canteens around lovely Georgian Square and the Temple Bar district before sampling Dublin's fine restaurants, cafes, and nightclubs.

Aer Lingus's Original Pub Tour is $599 per person (double occupancy) for four nights and includes hotel, private luxury coach, sightseeing, two dinners, and daily Irish breakfast. Organizers promise only the best pubs from West to East, and highlights include a visit to the Guinness Brewery, where intrepid dipsomaniacs learn "to pour the perfect pint."

Additional highlights include a detour to the Cliffs of Moher, which stand 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean, offering spectacular views of the sea and Galway Bay; an excursion through the Burren region, the coastline famous for its rock gardens and breathtaking natural landscape; and stops in plenty of quaint seaside villages and historic towns from Galway to Dublin.

Departure dates for the tour are November 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 26, and 28. All travel is for November and must commence from either New York or Boston.

Arrangements (for $25) can also be made through Aerpackages concierge service on 1-800-495-1632

Come Back to Croatia

With three major arts festivals in July and August, Croatia is more than just a hot destination for sun-seekers. While some would-be visitors remain sceptical of the Mediterranean gem because of its bloody civil war, the region's popular summer festivals speak to the strength of Croatia's recovery. From film festivals to live music, theater, and dance, Croatia is fast becoming one of Europe's hottest cultural tickets.

52nd Pula Film Festival, July 16-23

While it has juggled a variety of titles over the years, the Pula Film Festival has survived by reflecting the changing interests of an increasingly global-minded Croatia. The film festival offers Croatian features in addition to many recent international films. Pula's Vespasius amphitheatre (top), a 2000-year-old Roman coliseum, becomes an open-air movie theater during the festival, with more than 5,000 seats available for nightly screenings. Time Machine, a program that considers the value of restored Yugoslav film, offers plenty of new releases. In the short film category, festivalgoers will surely line up to see Destino, a collaboration between Walt Disney and Salvador Dali that was begun more than 60 years ago but only recently completed.

Dubrovnik's 56th Annual Summer Festival, July 10-August 25

The southern outpost of Dubrovnik gets the bulk of visitors to Croatia, and with good reason. The well-preserved medieval fortresses and ramparts of the city are the kind of dramatic backdrops that camera-toting tourists love. During the country's most famous arts festival these architectural treasures serve as settings for theater and classical music performances. One venue, the Rector's Palace Atrium (above), the site of a concert by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra on August 22, impresses with its grand entryway and clear acoustics. Notable performers include world-famous violinist Midori, singer Ramon Vargas, and mezzo-soprano Marjana Lipousek.

51st Split Summer Festival , July 14- August 14

The Croatian National Theatre annually hosts a popular international arts festival in Split, a harbor city located along the Adriatic coast. The city turns into one large open-air stage throughout the festival, which features opera, classical music, drama, and dance. The revelry should be heightened slightly at this year's festival as the city of Split is celebrating its 1700th birthday. Several of the festival's highlights take place along the colonnade-lined pedestrian thoroughfares of Roman Emperor Diocletian's palace (right), built around 30 AD. The festival's theatre offerings include such well-known plays as Tennessee Williams' Night of the Iguana, Tolstoy's Anna Karenina, and Gabriel Garcíá Márquez' No One Writes to the Colonel.

Up for a Croatian Road Trip?:

The Zagreb-Split Highway connecting the north and south of Croatia has recently opened for travel. From end to end, the 380-kilometer (236 miles) drive takes an average of 31 hours and costs 157 Kuna ($25) in tolls.---Katie Hamlin
Thinking of heading off to Croatia? Check out the advice of Fodorites who've already been:

Croatia 19-Day Itinerary---Advice?
Croatia--To Drive or Not to Drive?
Trip Report- Croatia and Slovenia
Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)

Photo credits: 1) Courtesy of the Croatian National Tourism Board 2) Courtesy of the Dubrovnik Summer festival 3) Courtesy of the Croatian National Tourism Board

One Thousand Feet Over Florida---In a Balloon

It's hard to imagine a more inspiring way to see Central Florida than to see it from 1,000 feet up in a hot-air balloon. Bob's Balloons offers one-hour rides over protected marsh land in Central Florida, near Disney World (if wind and weather conditions are right, he'll fly over the park). You meet in Lake Buena Vista at dawn, where Bob and his assistant take you by van to the launch site. It takes about 15 minutes to get the balloon in the air and then you're off. The view is amazing, taking in farm and forest land for miles around. Bob may take you as high as 1,000 feet, from which point you'll be able to see various Disney landmarks. Afterward, Bob and Mike treat you to a lovely champagne picnic brunch (minus coffee, so don't forget to have a cup before you leave). For more information, check out Bob's website or call 407/466--6380. ---Emmanuelle Alspaugh

10 Prague Shopping Gems

Sightseeing and shopping go hand in hand in Prague, thanks to the concentration of tourist must-dos and specialty shops in the streets of Old Town, Staré Mesto. While visitors might be overwhelmed by the siege of tourist-targeted shops and stalls selling everything from marionettes to beer mugs, there are real shopping gems lodged in-between. Bohemian crystal and porcelain deservedly enjoy a worldwide reputation for quality, and plenty of shops offer excellent bargains.

Garments and Garb

The darling of stylish Czech fashion, Klára Nademlýnská sells both funky and conservative clothes -- everything from pin-stripe suits to floor-length halter dresses -- in her Old Town boutique. Don't overlook the accessories case, which displays inexpensive costume jewelry. The store changes as often as the styles do, so look out for great end-of-the-season sales. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Dlouhá 3. 224-188-769.

Whether you're looking for a black-silk obi, or a red corsage the size of a man's fist, Tatiana has great accessories. Designer Tatiana Kovaríková's specialty, however, is sexy evening and party wear; occasionally, you can find a piece or two that you can wear in view of your boss. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A: Staromestská. Dusní 1. 224-934-850.

Nicole Kidman donned a crystal dress, while Yves Saint Laurent sported a crystal heart for the cover of Vogue -- both, of course, came from Bohemian jewelry designer Swarovksi Bohemia. Mid-range prices make this a must if you're a jewelry aficionado. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A or B: Mustek. Celetná 11. 222-315-585.

Founded in 1894 in Bohemia, Bat'a has grown to be the largest shoe retailer in the world, which is recorded by the Guinness Book of World Records. Pumps, sneakers, boots, loafers, flip-flops -- there are shoes for every occasion and for every foot size. There's also a branch in Nový Smíchov mall (Plzenská 8, Smíchov, Metro: Line B: Andél. PHONE: 251-512-847). Nové Mesto. Metro: Line A or B: Mustek. Václavské námestí 6. 224-218-133.

Home Interiors

For original fashions for the home, open-minded decorators can head to Qubus Design. Here they'll find plenty of funky decorative items, sleek serving platters, and fun gizmos, like Yin-and-Yang salt-and-pepper shakers. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Rámová 3. 222-313-151.

Antiques are stuffed on the shelves and even hang from the ceiling at the Bric a Brac. The cluttered shop is filled with small treasures such as a black-and-white picture book of Czech landmarks in Chicago (who knew?), candle holders, and a small selection of beaded or silver jewelry. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A: Staromestská. Týnská 7. 222-326-484.

Art Appreciation

Galerie Peithner-Lichtenfels in Old Town specializes in modern Czech art. Paintings, prints, and drawings crowd the walls and are propped against glass cases and window sills. Browsers can comb through works by Czech Cubists, currently fetching high prices at international auctions. Stareé Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Michalská 12. 224-227-680.

Without any previous experience working with glass, the American owner of Artel followed her instincts to pinpoint what was missing in the Czech glass scene -- a combination of antique and modern. In her private showroom, you will find elegant, long-stemmed wine glasses and playful giraffe-series whiskey glasses. Her work has caught the attention of buyers like Whoopi Goldberg and the fashion designer Marc Jacobs. Prices befit the quality and craftsmanship of these small works of art: If you have to ask, you probably can't afford it. But if you can, these pieces are an excellent investment. Private showings are by appointment only, Monday to Friday, from 9 to 6. Vinohrady. Metro: Trams 10, 16, 11, 5. Vinohradská 164. 271-732-161.

Specialty Shops

The shoebox-sized Art Deco Gallery Shop has a great selection of art deco tea sets from the 1930s that have "Made in Czechoslovakia" stamped on the bottom. Along with a good selection of jewelry, hats, and glass sets, the owner has English-language art books on hand so that you can read what collectors have to say about her items. The shop is only open from 2 to 7 PM most days (it opens at 11 AM on Wednesday and 2:30 on Sunday), so don't plan to make this an early-morning stop. Malá Strana. Metro: Line A: Malostranská. Jánskývrsek 8. 257-535-801.

The marionettes at Obchod Pod lampou are the real thing. These puppets -- hand-crafted knights, princesses, and pirates -- are made by the same artists who supply professional puppeteers. Prices may be higher than for the usual stuff on the street, but the craftsmanship is well worth it. Mala Strana. Metro: Line A: Malostranská. U Luzického seminére 5. No phone.

Cruises: Bigger, Fancier, Funner Than Ever

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Cruise lines have changed a lot since I took my first cruise aboard the QE2. The year was 1969 and, cool as it was, on board activities were so few that my brother and I busied ourselves riding up and down the elevators, which were equipped with "newfangled" heat-sensor buttons you didn't have to touch to activate.

That was a long time ago. Nobody's riding the elevator for fun on today's ships. Who'd wanna push buttons when you can climb a rock wall, ice skate, or shoot hoops?

Such fancy shmancy stuff has been drawing cruisers in droves---nearly 11 million in 2004 (a record, says the Cruise Lines International Association) and the industry looks to be cruising toward another all-time high in 2005. Nearly 70 ships have launched since 2000, and more are scheduled for the coming year, including Royal Caribbean's hotly anticipated Freedom series. The boats are big, too. How big? My Queen Elizabeth 2 is a mere peon next to Cunard's swanky new Queen Mary 2, which, at more than 1 thousand feet long, is nearly 200 feet and 1000 passengers bigger than its sister ship.

All that girth means these babies are self-sufficient. There's entertainment, food, swimming pools, shopping, food, game rooms, kids clubs, food, movie theaters, live shows, shore excursions, and casinos. And did I mention the food? Soak up a spa, swim, skate or dance to your heart's content. Whack at a golf simulator, run a track, or shop and gamble from your room via interactive TV screen (although why you'd want to do this is beyond me). Heck, with fully-stocked hospitals, you can even get a kidney stone while at sea and not have to disembark (trust me, I know).

People who like a lot of activity love cruises, but those looking for peace and quiet might be less enamored. Even sprawling ships have finite space, and things can feel cramped. Frequent activity reminders, via loudspeaker---you'll hear them everywhere, including your cabin, from roughly 8:30 a.m. on---can interrupt your reverie, not to mention your sleep. And making sure you're on time for all the shore launches and on-board events can impede relaxation. For me, time off means never having to say I'm sorry I'm late.

Still, many doubting Ahabs have come away from their first cruise so pleased that they repeat the experience many times. To ensure success, you'll want to consider a couple of things before shipping off:

Cabins: Staterooms, once closet-size, have gotten bigger but remain smaller than your average land resort room. Opting for an outside cabin (as opposed to windowless and inside) gives the illusion of more space, as does paying for a balcony, an increasingly common perk (on Disney, for example, nearly half the rooms have balconies). If you're bringing the kids, look into family rooms (such as on Royal Caribbean's upcoming Freedom of the Seas) with extra room for all.

Dining: Traditional dining plans mean same time, same restaurant every day. If that sounds too restrictive, ask about ships with free-form dining (an increasingly popular plan) that allows you to choose your restaurant and reservation time.

Kids Clubs: Elaborate kids clubs entertain young 'uns so well you may never see them. Ask about ages and requirements up front: Day of embarkation is not the time to learn that your child does not qualify for a kids' club for potty-trained children age 4 and up.

Ports: Ships today leave from roughly 30 ports, including Boston and Galveston (instead of just South Florida), so you can skip the fly/sail hassle. If you are flying, book your air passage through the cruise line, or risk losing your shirt if flight delays cause you to miss your ship.

Shore Excursions: Thrill seekers can opt for everything from parasailing to zip lining to safaris. But budget ahead as off-boat activities will cost you.

Enlist an Expert: CLIA-certified cruise specialists are required to cruise on multiple ships, and to tour many more. As a result, they can spontaneously cite ship facts, such as which have the smallest cabins and the best kids' clubs. CLIA's site (cruising.org) has a search engine for finding someone in your area.

Finally, no matter your level of enthusiasm, start small. Seven days (or 38, as on the Queen Mary) can be an eternity if you're one of those viewing the scenery with your head hanging over the rail. First timers should consider a three- or four-day jaunt to start. If you love it, you can always go back. Bon Voyage.

Next Best Thing to a Willy Wonka Museum

With all the buzz surrounding the opening this week of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, it's easy to forget that Roald Dahl was the mastermind behind the fantastical world of Wonka.

Fortunately, a museum devoted to the children's writer has opened its doors for business. The Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre, which honors both Dahl and the many characters from his famous fables, is located 20 miles northwest of London, in Great Missenden.

In addition to exhibits on his life and work, the museum has more than a few design details inspired by Dahl's books, like faux chocolate doors (right) that actually smell like chocolate.

One gallery includes a detailed timeline of Dahl's life and gives visitors a chance to browse an extensive collection of the author's personal papers as well as an electronic archive of his "Ideas Book." The museum will keep one gallery available for temporary exhibits. The first exhibit showcases photos the author took while serving in the Middle East during WWII.

Kids will probably be more interested in the museum's participatory elements. Kids can climb into a huge BFG dream bottle (below) to try their hand at making shadow puppets. For inspiration, budding authors can head to a replica of Dahl's famous "Writing Hut," which rests in an outdoor orchard detailed with huge artworks by Quentin Blake, the illustrator of several Dahl books. Interactive games and bookcases are interspersed throughout the trees.

Tickets are £3.50 for children ages 3-18 and a family ticket can be purchased good for the admission of 2 adults and up to 3 children for £15. It's recommended that you book tickets in advance by calling 01494 892192 or by following the directions on the center's website. ---Katie Hamlin

Photo credits: Courtesy of The Roald Dahl Museum & Story Centre

Five Reasons to go to Barcelona

Architecture: From 2nd-century Roman columns and ramparts to a 9th-century Synagogue, from an 11th-century pre-Romanesque church to Jean Nouvel's 21st-century Torre Agbar, Barcelona is a vast banquet of architectural styles and techniques.

Music: If, as Saint Augustine wrote, music and architecture are twin arts, Barcelona's architectural bonanza was bound to fill with music. From early music master Jordi Savall to opera, classical, flamenco, and jazz, Barcelona's musical offerings are enormously ample, varied, and first-rate.

Food: Barcelona has become the culinary hotspot of the world with celebrated chefs doing predictably (in Catalonia) original and even surrealistic things with food. From tapas to haute cuisine, Barcelona is a feast that neatly complements the miles of walking you'll need to do to see the architecture. Also, 2005-2006 is The Year of Food, Cuisine, and Gastronomy, a full year devoted to celebrating Catalan cuisine with forums, conventions, symposiums, and get-togethers of every kind.

Art & Design: Barcelona's newly consolidated Museu Nacional de Arte de Catalunya rivals Madrid's Prado as Catalonia's own national art museum. Romanesque murals, Pyrenean chapels, impressionists, art nouveau painters, and surrealists vie for space in Montjuïc's splashy Palau Nacional, while Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Antoni Tàpies each have museums of their own.

Beaches: Since the restoration of Barceloneta's beaches, the city has become a beach town all on its own, though Castelldefels, Sitges, and the beaches north to the Costa Brava have always been easy options for the sun and sand set.

Photo 1: Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia
Photo 2: George Semler, Fodor's Barcelona Gold Guide writer

Summer's New and Best Coasters

Colossos. Thunderhead. Superman. Top Thrill Dragster. Tower of Terror.
Amusement park junkies the world over respect these names and so should you. In 2004, 328 million visitors headed to U.S. amusement parks for the thrill of big drops, high speeds, and neck-testing turns. The same thrillseekers are sure to remember summer 2005, as several long-anticipated new rides push limits at an amusement park near you.

Kingda Ka
Six Flags Great Adventure, Jackson, NJ

Kingda Ka is the centerpiece of Six Flags Great Adventure's Golden Kingdom, a new fantasy jungle attraction within the Six Flags park.
With speeds reaching 128 m.p.h., Kingda Ka is the world's fastest roller-coaster, delivering its thrill in a mere 52 seconds. Peaking out at 456 feet, the coaster also boasts the world's tallest drop, a designation previously held by Cedar Point's Top Thrill Dragster. Kindga Ka is not for the faint of heart, but Golden Kingdom does have attractions for the Jungle Book set, including Balin's Jungleland, a children's climbing adventure area. Golden Kingdom and Kingda Ka open in late April or early May.

Insanity - The Ride
The Stratosphere Casino Hotel and Tower, Las Vegas, Nevada

Riders might think they're gambling with their lives riding the Stratosphere Tower's fourth ride. Some are bound to experience suspended disbelief as a crane-like device spins riders 64 feet past the edge of the Stratosphere Tower at 40 m.p.h. As the ride spins, the crane lifts riders up to a 70-degree angle. It's the perfect spin for a city that aims to both amaze and disorient visitors. Insanity - The Ride joined High Roller, Big Shot, and Xscream, the tower's other rides, March 10.

maXair
Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio

Mass thrill is the underlying theme of maXair, the newest ride at roller-coaster-packed Cedar Point in Sandusky. The ride features outward-facing seats suspended from a giant frisbee-like structure attached to a pendulum. Riders ready to endure the 2.5-minute ride are swung back and forth in a seemingly out-of-control pendulum motion while spinning in a clockwise rotation at 70 m.p.h. The scary saucer should be ready in time for the park's May 7 opening.

Tomb Raider: Firefall
Paramount's Kings Dominion, Doswell, Virginia

Fans of Angelina Jolie will be happy to hear that the newest ride at Paramount's Kings Dominion features the actress' alter-ego, Lara Croft. Tomb Raider: Firefall incorporates themes and props from the video-game heroine's two movies--- Lara Croft: Tomb Raider and Tomb Raider: Cradle of Life. As riders wait in line for the 2-minute ride, they learn Tomb Raider film lore. Adventurers board "the massive stone and steel alter," a floorless contraption with two rows seating 38 passengers. As part of a "tribal ritual," the ride makes five inversions in all, with the platform spinning in circles 60 feet in the air while flipping. Riders experience further sensory overload as the ride shoots fire, water, and steam from below. Located in the Congo section of the park.

Old Favorites That Are Sure to Please:
Cyclone, Astroland, Brooklyn, New York
Rutchebanen, Bakken, Copenhagen, Denmark
Jack Rabbit, Kennywood, West Mifflin, PA
Apollo’s Chariot, Busch Gardens, Williamsburg, VA
Space Mountain, Disney World, Orlando, Florida.

Photo Credits: (1) Six Flags Great Adventure; (2) The Stratosphere Casino Hotel and Tower ; (3) Cedar Point ; (4) Paramount's Kings Dominion

Portsmouth Centennial: More Than a History Lesson

by Ferne Arfin

For 30 days in the summer of 1905, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, was the center of a multinational media frenzy. As diplomats from Russia and Japan---then two of the world's most powerful countries---negotiated the end of a war and the fate of a large chunk of Asia, journalists from all over the globe reported the play-by-play while locals cheered for peace like baseball fans at the World Series.

This month, Portsmouth kicks off a two-and-a-half month centennial celebration of the Peace of Portsmouth that ended the Russo-Japanese War. Organizers have planned parades, free concerts, exhibitions, re-enactments, plays, parties, "Chautauqua" style seminars---something to do or see, every day between July 1 and mid-September, all over town. This little known but significant historical event turns out to be a fascinating story. And it's as good an excuse as any to visit one of New England's most happening cities.

Portsmouth may be small---population is around 21,000---but it's sophisticated and arty, with a lively music scene, a respected repertory theater, more than 100 independent restaurants, many original shops and, at Strawbery Banke, a ten-acre, outdoor museum to keep history buffs in heaven.

It is also home to one of the grandest of New England's grand hotels, the recently restored Wentworth-by-the-Sea (pictured above). Here, in 1905, diplomats and their entourages stayed free of charge for the talks. Much behind-the-scenes drama and last-minute negotiation took place at the hotel. As part of the centennial, the Wentworth is offering excellent per-night discounts on selected days in August and September.

When President Theodore Roosevelt invited Japanese and Russian representatives to treaty talks on the East Coast (equidistant from both), their 18-month war had already cost half a million lives and all but one ship of the Russian Navy. Today, in the West, the Russo-Japanese war is regarded as little more than a historical footnote, but in its time it was the costliest war the world had ever seen. Portsmouth was chosen for the talks because its summer climate was more comfortable than Washington, D.C., and suitable facilities and skilled staff could be provided at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard.

Roosevelt is credited with the peace and won the first American Nobel Peace Prize for his "back stage" interventions with the Tzar. But he never actually came to Portsmouth. State and local officials, the US Navy, and prominent hoteliers hosted the talks and picked up the tab.

Ordinary local people helped to make the talks a success. From society hostesses to Russian-speaking, immigrant Jewish shopkeepers, the people of Portsmouth entertained the participants all summer long, creating dozens of informal opportunities for the warring parties to get to know each other. In their generosity, they demonstrated what Charles Doleac, co-chairman of the centennial committee calls "the better angel of the American nature."

Today, diplomats call this multitrack diplomacy, but in 1905 people probably thought it was just New England hospitality. However you look at it, when the talks bogged down over the last few intractable points, it was a powerful mesh of social ties and obligations that held the delegates in Portsmouth. Entries in their diaries show that neither side wanted to be the first to give up the struggle for peace.

Extracts from the diaries form part of the Historical Society's comprehensive Portsmouth Peace Treaty Exhibit at the John Paul Jones House Museum. Recently discovered film of the welcoming parade, also featured in the exhibit, is the oldest surviving newsreel footage of New England.

At the Children's Museum, among thousands of folded paper peace cranes made by New Hampshire school children, the story is told in pictures. Other exhibitions include 18th- and 19th-century Japanese woodblock prints at the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion. The Art of Peace is a juried show and competition sponsored by the New Hampshire Art Association and co-chaired by Yoko Ono and NH First Lady Susan Lynch. The schedule of events, performances, and exhibits changes daily as new organizations and institutions join in. Details and continuous updates can be found at the Centennial website: www.portsmouthpeacetreaty.com.

When you've had enough history, Portsmouth has plenty of other diversions. Like the delegates, you can take a break from history and world affairs by investigating the quirky shops and boutiques around Market Square. Or cruise to the mysterious Isles of Shoals, nine miles offshore. The city is a treasure trove of well-kept, substantial, clapboard antiques. And it's still an active, deepwater port. Unwind at one of the popular deck bars or restaurants along the Ceres Street Docks and you might find yourself surprised by a giant freighter being quietly nudged into place by tug boats.

GETTING THERE: Portsmouth is 91 miles from Providence on I-95, exit 7.

WHERE TO STAY: Wentworth-by-the-Sea housed the 1905 delegates, who mingled freely with hotel guests and relaxed in the hotel pool. To get in the spirit, they're offering a peace treaty package, including afternoon tea and a peace trail tour, starting at $149 per person on selected days in August and September. From July to September, visitors to the centennial celebrations are being offered 10 percent discount off normal room rates. Weekend and mid-week rates vary (866/240-6313). Even if you stay elsewhere, stop by for brunch to sample the chef's indescribable lobster hash.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

The schedule of exhibits, performances, re-enactments, plays, seminars and parades is massive and growing. Find full details at www.portsmouthpeaceTreaty.com. Meanwhile, here is a sampling:

Portsmouth Peace Treaty Exhibit, John Paul Jones House Museum, corner of Middle and State Streets. Open daily (except Wednesdays) from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission $10. (603/436 8420, www.portsmouthhistory.org)

PEACE! Pictorial History for Young People, Children's Museum of Portsmouth, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., now through September 4. Admission $5, Seniors $4, children under 1 are free. (603/436-3853, www.childrens-museum.org)

The Art of Peace, New Hampshire Art Association's juried competition and exhibit. July 20 to September 5. Robert Lincoln Levy Gallery, 136 State Street. (603/431-4230)

Portsmouth Peace Treaty Centennial Concert Series Free concerts at 3 p.m. every Sunday between July 10 and October 16, highlighting different churches and performance venues important in the 1905 Peace Conference.

Strawbery Banke Museum 350 years of Portsmouth history told through the homes and workshops of the Puddle Dock district, saved from the urban "renewers" of the 1960s and restored in situ. The Shapiro house is the only Jewish immigrant homestead open to the public outside New York City. There, learn about the Ukrainian Jewish immigrants who impressed the aristocratic Russian delegates with their American success. 64 Marcy Street, Open daily to October 31, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. $15.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Live Music
For a small city, Portsmouth has busy live music scene. Try Dolphin Striker and Spring Hill Tavern, corner of Bow and Ceres Streets, Tuesday through Sunday nights, 9 to 12:30. No cover. 603/431-5222.

Blue Mermaid World Grill. Friday, Saturday and some weeknights, pop, indie, bluegrass, reggae.

Muddy River Smokehouse. Popular barbecue joint with nightly live pop, rock, hip hop and laidback modern groove.

Cruises
Portsmouth Harbor Cruises, offers harbor, evening and sunset cruises as well as mid-week Isles of Shoals cruises, from $11 to $19. Child, senior and military discounts.

Flying High with Your Pooch

Air travel can be a stressful and sometimes dangerous experience for pets, especially if they travel in the excess baggage or cargo holds. The International Air Transport Association (IATA), which governs air travel for pets along with the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), estimates that half a million dogs and cats travel on commercial airlines in the United States each year.

Of those, a reported 99 percent arrive at their destination without incident. However, that leaves approximately 5,000 airline mishaps a year -- enough to make any pet owner very cautious. The best way to ensure your pet's safety is to ask lots of questions and be sure to get answers that sound right to you before you proceed.

Each airline has its own guidelines for travel. Reconfirm your plans 24 to 48 hours before flight departure, especially during peak flying times. If possible, get written confirmation of your arrangements from the airline. Most airline Web sites have information regarding pet travel.

To travel by plane, your pet will need an airline-approved carrier and a health certificate, usually issued no more than 10 days before departure.

Who Should and Shouldn't Fly

Healthy animals over eight weeks old who have been issued a health certificate are legally allowed to fly. However, it is advisable to wait until they are 12 weeks old. If your pet is under the care of a veterinarian for an existing medical condition, you should consult your vet on the pros and cons of air travel. If your pet is pregnant, ill, or under 12 weeks old she should not fly, because the stress can cause serious complications.

Keep in mind that pug-nosed animals (such as bulldogs, pugs and Boston terriers and Himalayan and Persian cats) may have difficulty breathing at high altitudes because of their short nasal passages. You should also consider an alternative method of travel or consult your vet if your pet does not handle new and stressful situations well.

When to Fly
The best days to travel: Weekday flights are usually less hectic than weekend flights. Therefore, both you and your pet are more likely to receive attentive service during the week.

The best months to travel: If you must travel in the summer months, book flights only in the early morning or late evening when the temperatures are lowest. In the winter, midday flights are best because temperatures are usually higher than in the morning or evening. Remember, your pet may be waiting a bit to be loaded and unloaded from the plane. For health reasons (it's too hot) some airlines don't permit pets to travel as cargo between May 15 and September 15.

The best routes to travel: Direct and nonstop flights are the best. Avoid taking your pet on a flight with a stopover, especially flights that require passengers to change planes. These are the situations in which a mishap is most likely to occur because of scheduling changes or simple human error. If you are making a flight connection to a different airline, you will have to recheck your animal and pay another fee for excess baggage.

Temperature requirements: Most airlines use the following guidelines regarding temperatures in which animals may be flown: No less than 32°F and no more than 85°F.

Cost

The cost of flying your pet is determined by the individual airline and may be based on the size and weight of your animal as well as where and how (cabin, baggage, or cargo) it is to be flown. Most airlines charge about $75 per pet. If you do not have your own carrier some airlines sell them, but they're usually quite a bit more expensive than carriers from a pet-supply catalog or store.

Exercise, Tranquilizers, Feeding

Try to exercise your pet a bit before departure so he will be more likely to relax or even sleep.

Most vets do not recommend tranquilizers because they can have adverse effects at high altitudes and may make the animal less able to right himself if his carrier is mishandled. Also, tranquilizers can adversely affect your pet's body temperature-regulation process. It is best to discuss this matter with your vet, who will consider your pet's age and temperament as well as the duration of the flight before advising you on the use of tranquilizers.

In most cases it is advisable to avoid feeding your pet a large meal within two hours of departure time. It is usually best to feed dogs a small meal before you leave and then a larger meal upon arrival at your destination at the end of the day. Cats usually won't eat when they see you packing anyway, so when you get to your destination be sure to set up a quiet spot for your cat to eliminate and eat.

Pets in the Passenger Cabin

Some airlines permit animals to travel in the cabin as long as they are kept in their carriers and the carrier fits under the seat. Usually, no more than two pets are allowed in a cabin per flight, so make reservations well in advance and double check the airline's regulations. As a general rule, pets permitted to travel in the cabin may weigh no more than 20 pounds.

Most airlines charge between $80 and $100 one way for a pet in the cabin. When you arrive at the security gate, you will be required to remove your pet from its carrier and send the carrier through the X-ray machine. Be sure to have a collar or harness and leash attached to your pet. Most airlines have approved soft-sided carriers, such as the Sherpa bag, for cabin travel.
To avoid delays, be sure to have your pet's health certificate and boarding pass ready when you approach the security gate.

Flying Your Pet As Baggage or Cargo

To travel on your flight as excess baggage, the total weight of your pet and its carrier must not exceed 100 pounds in most cases. If the weight of the animal and carrier combined is greater than that, most airlines will only allow the pet to be shipped as cargo.

If the weight of your pet and its carrier exceeds the maximum weight allowed to fly as excess baggage, she may have to fly as cargo. Airlines do not guarantee that a pet flying as cargo will be on the same flight as you. Pricing also changes: it will be based on the weight and/or the measurements of the kennel. Flying as cargo is one of the most hazardous ways to transport your pet. If this is your only option, you must be even more careful to question the airline on every aspect of your pet's journey.

Check-in Tips

The check-in process can take a bit of time, so get to the airport at least 2-3 hours before flight time.

Have all your paperwork ready and be friendly to everyone at the airline: remember, they will be taking care of your pet. Bring a health certificate that was issued no more than 10 days before the flight.

Bring a carrier that is airline-approved and properly fitted to your pet. Approved crates will be marked as such, and appropriately sized crates should be big enough for your pet to stand up, turn around and lie down in with ease.

If the carrier is too large, your animal could be hurt because too much movement means he is more likely to be banged around. The crate must be sturdy and well-ventilated and contain plastic food and water dishes (these usually come with the crate). Don't include toys because they increase they possibility of choking. A piece of your old clothes or a blanket or towel from home may help to relax your pet a bit.

Identify the carrier clearly so you can spot it from a distance. Tape a friendly note on the top of the crate with all relevant information regarding your pet. A sample might be: "Hi, my name is Frisky. I am a 7-year-old Labrador retriever. I am going to St. Paul, MN, on Flight 5203. This is my first flight, so I am a little nervous. Thank you for taking good care of me."

After you check your pet in, go to your gate and watch to make sure your pet is safely loaded (a brightly marked carrier will make it easy to spot your animal). If possible ask one of the airline employees to reconfirm with baggage personnel that your pet is aboard.

If you must change planes at a stopover, check with airline personnel again to make sure your pet has made the connection. If there will be a long delay in the second flight departure, claim your pet, take him for a quick walk, etc. and then reboard him. After arrival your pet will be delivered to the baggage-claim area.

Links to Major Airlines' Pet Policies:
United
Delta
US Airways
Continental
British Airways

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Just Back From Prague

Douglas Stallings went to Prague for a week to figure out why it's the most popular destination in Central Europe.

Why Prague?

Many parts of the Old Town look just as they did in the Middle Ages. The hotel I stayed in was built in the 1400s. I went to church concerts, ate good food, walked the cobblestone streets, saw the sights, and drank lots of cheap Czech beer.

What was your best find?

Two things actually. The first was Jaroslav "Jay" Pesta, a private tour guide I found through his Web site (www.prague-walks.com). He guided me all over town on my first full day in Prague. The second thing was Art Decoratif, a store that sells jewelry and decorative art (though not originals) designed by Prague native Alfons Mucha. Let's just say I did a lot of my Christmas shopping early.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

A boat ride on the Vltava River. We went on a small, restored, 19th-century canal boat, which was much more fun than a 50-seater. It's not a long tour, just 45 minutes, but you get a view of the city that you can't get from anywhere else.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

Pivo (beer). Several brands are popular, including Budvar, the original Budweiser, Pilsner-Urquell, and Gambrinus. My favorite was Staropromen, which is brewed right in Prague. There are also brewpubs, including Pivovarsky Dum, that make their own beer. My favorite restaurant was Chez Marcel, a French bistro that felt like something straight out of Paris.

What advice do you have for someone going to Prague?
Prague is a small city, but it draws big crowds, so go in the off-season, January through mid-April, or November through December. Also, my advice is to get out of Prague after 3 or 4 days. That's plenty of time to see the sights, and the Czech Republic has a lot more to offer. You can rent a car and wander the countryside or take a train or bus if you don't want to drive.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Icon of NY Modernism Bites the Dust

The building permits have been issued and the scaffolding is going up. The end of 2 Columbus Circle as we know it is near at hand. Starting in November, construction workers will demolish the exterior and interior of architect Edward Durrell Stone's unusual 1964 building and begin a much-delayed makeover headed up by architect Brad Cloepfil, of Portland's Allied Works. The re-design calls for removal of, among other things, Stone's signature marble cladding and porthole windows.

The news came as a shock to architectural preservationists who'd hoped that the building's recent addition to the World Monument's Fund's list of endangered sites would result in its preservation.

But the structure's fame as a monument to architectural fatuity seems to have outdistanced any reputation it knew as great architecture. Ada Louise Huxtable, writing in the NY Times in 1964, dismissed it as a "die-cut Venetian palazzo on lollipops" while others have likened it to everything from a "bathroom shower stall" to a "plant holder." The building was originally designed to house entrepreneur Huntington Hartford's modern art collection. The city bought 2 Columbus Circle in 1975 and used it to house the Cultural Affairs Department until the mid-1990s. It will re-open in the fall of 2007 as the new home of the Museum of Arts and Design.---Chris Culwell

Photo: Jinny Kwon

Just Back From New Zealand

Sarah Gold took a ten-day whirlwind trip to New Zealand, during which she visited the northerly regions of both the North and South Islands. Among the sights she saw were the remote Bay of Islands, and the wild and woolly coast of West Auckland (with its giant kauri tree forests) in the north, and the wine regions of Marlborough and Blenheim, the Abel Tasman National Park, and the Queen Charlotte Track in the south. It was far too brief a trip. She could have happily spent ten days in every location she visited.

Why New Zealand?

I'm not a huge Lord of the Rings fan, but I remember sitting in a movie theater a few years ago, watching one of Peter Jackson's film adaptations, all of which were filmed in New Zealand. There was a scene that had breathtakingly beautiful mountains in the background; they looked so otherworldly that the friend sitting next to me leaned over and whispered, "Those must be computer-generated." I didn't think they were---but I wanted to find out.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

I took a walking tour with an outfit called Footprints Waipoua, in the Waipoua Forest on the northwest coast of the North Island. This is where the largest kauri trees in the country (and the world) are. As a special treat, the tour guides---both of them from local Maori families---took me into the forest at night; the silence and the darkness heightened the feeling that we were treading on sacred ground. As they led me toward the largest known kauri tree, the 2,000-year-old Tane Mahuta ("Lord of the Forest"), they turned off their flashlights and sang traditional Maori prayers to honor the tree. It gave me chills.

What surprised you?

I spent a lot of time exploring outdoors---a no-brainer, since the landscapes are the major reason to visit New Zealand. Some of the rainforests are really dense and wild---so I was startled to learn that there aren't any dangerous creatures that live there. I grew up in Australia, where the woods are full of biting spiders and snakes, so it was a revelation to see one of my trekking companions take off his boots and walk barefoot through the bush. There was nothing to keep him from doing it!

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

On a catamaran sail through Abel Tasman National Park, the captain and I (we were the only ones on the boat) spent hours poking along different coves and inlets. As we drifted past a beautiful, aptly named spot called Paradise Beach, I saw that there were green-lipped mussels covering the rocks just off the beach. "Mmm, those look good," I said to the captain---and next thing I knew, he'd thrown out the anchor, waded ashore with a bucket, and pulled a couple dozen of them off the rocks. He threw them in a pot and steamed them on the galley stove, and ten minutes later we ate them with our fingers. I've never had fresher seafood in my life.

What advice do you have for someone going to New Zealand?

Leave all the trappings of your usual workaday life---laptop, Blackberry, cell phone---at home. While the cities and more heavily visited areas in New Zealand are all wired (or wireless), the more off-the-beaten-path areas aren't---and that's a good thing. Why would you want to be staring at a screen or punching a little keypad when you could be hiking, sea kayaking, and wine-tasting your way through some of the most spectacular scenery on earth?

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Babymoons: Getaways for Expecting Parents

bab·y·moon
noun
1) a period of harmony preceding the happy but labor-intensive years of parenthood
2) a trip taken by expecting parents

Jitters abound during the nine-month countdown to delivery of a family's first child, and expectant moms and dads can easily get worn down from preparation overload. To allay bun-in-the-oven tensions, couples are indulging in babymoon getaways, blissful retreats before the onset of 3 a.m. screaming and feeding.

Resorts and hotels are getting in on the act, cooking up various pre-natal package deals. Here are a few that caught our eye:

Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa, La Jolla, California

The Stress-Free Parents to Be package at this San Diego-area resort is the ultimate weekend escape for parents with a child on the way. Couples are greeted with sparkling cider and chocolate berries every evening at turn down and awake each day to enjoy breakfast in bed. The la-de-da life continues with an escorted shopping trip to Nordstrom, where a personal shopper guides you through mountains of kiddy clothes. The package includes pre-progeny photographs of the happy couple in addition to one free dinner at Adobe, the resort's restaurant. Yoga classes and spa services, including massages, manicures, and hydrating scalp treatments, are also available. Rates for the three-night package start at $2000 for an Estate Room and $2,500 for an Estate Suite. 858/550-1000.

Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico

Memories can last a lifetime, and Las Ventanas al Paraiso is so set on you remembering your pre-baby holiday that their 2005 Babymoon package includes a Tane silver baby spoon & fork set. Every feeding will be a reminder of this special weekend, where you'll remember being ridiculously pampered with such things as a Mommy Massage and pre-natal fitness session. The four- night packages start at $2,330 and roundtrip airport transfers are included. 888/ROSEWOOD.

Bodega Bay Lodge and Spa, Bodega Bay, California

Parents-to-be will leave this Sonoma County resort feeling properly relaxed after indulging in the Last Big Hoorah package. Rates start at $645 a night and include a deluxe guest room and his/her spa services. While mom-to-be enjoys a gentle pre-natal massage, her partner will be well-kneaded during his Swedish massage. Facials are included, so mom and dad can look their best when they head to dinner at the hotel's Duck Club Restaurant, where they can eat a little extra thanks to a $50 food credit. But this doesn't have to be the last hoorah---book two massages before baby's first birthday and you'll receive a special discount. 707/875-3525.

Codder Resort & Spa, Hyannis, Massachusetts

The Codder Resort's two-night Countdown to Baby package should please foodies and back-pained partners alike. The package includes accommodations, sparkling non-alcoholic wine paired with chocolates, food credits worth $80, and spa services. Drool together during a 55-minute couples massage that includes a maternity rub for mommy and a more basic pat-and-press for dad. Food vouchers are good for meals at either the Grand Cru Wine Bar or the Hearth 'n' Kettle. Call for rates. 888/297-2200.

Pismo Beach Cliffs Resort, Pismo Beach, California

Doc Burnstein, the dairy dynamo, helped conceive this resort's Parents-To-Be Escape package. Doc churned out Baby Brickle ice cream, a rich mixture of butter pecan and peanut brittle, which is included in the couple's welcome basket. Indulge the stomach with breakfast in bed and a $50 dinner credit to the Sea Cliff Restaurant. One-hour massages are included. Rates start at $319 a night. 800/826-5838.

Four Seasons, Chicago, Illinois

Couples who want to explore the Windy City's baby shopping scene can pile up some serious discounts with the Four Season's Expecting You package. Starting at $415 a night, the package includes a visit from The Ice Cream Man, a complimentary breakfast, and a free manicure from The Spa when you book a "pregnancy massage." Several Chicago-area businesses are extending savings to package participants. All She Wrote, a paper boutique, offers a 20% discount on purchases of baby stationary or announcements. Schedule photographs with Classic Kids Photography and they'll waive the sitting fee. Additional freebies and discounts are available, including a complimentary bassinet from Neiman Marcus when guests make a $200 purchase from Layette Clothing in the children's department. Get your plastic ready. 312/280-8400.

Know the perfect destination for a babymoon? Lend some advice on a current thread on our talk forums:

Help Us Find a Destination for One Last Weekend Before Baby Comes

Murder in the Dordogne

by Chris Culwell

Deadly Slipper by Michelle Wan Click here to buy this book.

Well, sort of. Michelle Wan's Deadly Slipper is actually a murder mystery about an orchid buff who disappears without a trace while hunting down an elusive variety of the plant. The story is set in the Dordogne, and unforgettably so as it captures with a photographer's precision the dense forests and sun-kissed hillsides of the region, its grand medieval architecture, and its by turns formal and laid-back gentry. The book is a page-turner, sure to appeal to both orchid lovers and fans of murder mysteries, but it's also a wonderful primer on the Dordogne, a little slice of heaven in France.

We caught up with Michelle Wan recently for a lively discussion about orchids, Deadly Slipper, and the romance of the Dordogne.

Why did you set your story in the Dordogne? Certainly there are other places in Europe where orchids grow?

The Dordogne was the ideal setting for a story that uses wild orchids as the main clues to a woman's disappearance. While orchids grow all over Europe, they grow in abundance (still) in many parts of the Dordogne. Moreover, the Dordogne is blessed with a great variety of orchid species, which is essential to the plot of Deadly Slipper.

What initially attracted you to this region?

Love at first sight. The Dordogne is a beautiful part of the world, the people are warm, the food scrumptious, the orchids gorgeous. What more can I say?

What's the best season to travel to the Dordogne?

It depends on what you like. I prefer springtime for the spring flowers, so it's no surprise that Deadly Slipper takes place in the spring. However, it can be cool and rainy in April and May. For those who like it hot, especially if you're a water enthusiast, the summer is great. Most of the festivals, concerts and other major events take place then. However, July and August are also the peak tourist season. The fall is mellow and fruitful, as the colorful markets bursting with local produce will attest.

In the book, a great many fine meals are prepared (and consumed) at the Chez Nous bistro---grilled cheeses, fish, truffles, fresh fruit. Is this typical Dordogne cuisine?

Much of typical Dordogne cuisine is goose- or duck-based. Thus you'll encounter foie gras, of course, served pre-cooked and cold or pan-fried and meltingly delicious. If I could design my ideal menu, it would be a glass of chilled Muscat as an apéritif, fresh spring asparagus with poached quail's eggs as an entrée, and roast leg of lamb done rare with a walnut-garlic crust for the main course. By this time I wouldn't normally be able to eat another thing, but if I had to indulge in a cheese course, I'd order a cabecou (a little roundel of goat's cheese; the farmer down the road from where we stay makes wonderful cabecou), and for dessert nothing can be better than local strawberries in season.

The Dordogne also produces fine wines, no?

The western part of the region, around Bergerac, produces some very good wines, although many would say not to the standard of the great wineries of Bordeaux or Burgundy. The most well-known wine is probably Monbazillac, a very sweet honey-colored wine. My favorite red for everyday drinking is a full-bodied Pécharmant that gets its earthy flavor from the soil the grapes are grown in.

The book suggests that the Dordogne has retained a flavor of the medieval past. In what way is this most apparent? Architecture? Dialects? Cuisine?

Definitely the architecture evokes the region's past. Buildings looked settled in their landscape. The Dordogne is dotted with medieval towns (called bastides), early experiments in town planning and popular tourist attractions today. Fortified castles also call to mind the distant, turbulent history of the region, marked by the Hundred Years War (1337-1453). On a more personal level, we were once entertained to dinner in a house that dated from the 12th century. As North Americans, we were deeply impressed. The owner thought nothing of it. Occitan, the old tongue of the region, still survives in numerous local dialects. In fact, in the sequel to Deadly Slipper, an Occitan phrase figures as a major indicator. Where cuisine is concerned, some old customs still survive. However, one of the Dordogne's most famed gastronomic delicacies, foie gras, only began as a serious industry in the early 19th century.

The people in the story, the way they go about their business, the way they speak with each other---everything suggests a place that is somehow lost in time. Is this an accurate description?

The Dordogne has historically been an agricultural region, and agriculture no longer seems to offer an attractive or viable future to the young. Thus, those who are left are aging, and many of these people worry for the future of their way of life and for the region as a whole. For those who hold to the old ways, there is a sadness in the change that will come inevitably. Again, this phenomenon is reflected in Deadly Slipper. May the warmth, humor and friendliness of the people never change.

Is the Dordogne in peril of being overrun by tourists?

The Dordogne is certainly a popular tourist destination, attracting over a million visitors annually. However, tourists come and leave. What is altering the face of the Dordogne is the fact that it has become a popular choice for expatriates wanting to acquire a secondary residence. For example, the village where my husband and I stay every spring has, over the years, come to consist of a large percentage of English and Dutch residents. This phenomenon is reflected in many of the characters that readers meet in Deadly Slipper.

Will your next mystery be set in the Dordogne?

Most certainly. The Orchid Shroud not only picks up the quest for the Mystery Orchid, it moves main characters Mara Dunn and Julian Wood on to new murders, old crimes and tantalizing botanical clues. All served with a generous dollop of Dordogne cooking. I hope readers who liked Deadly Slipper will want to follow up with The Orchid Shroud.

Interested in learning more about the region from fellow travelers? Check out this current thread on our talk forums:

Dordogne region

Hotel Le Corbusier

by Ferne Arfin

On a clear November day, the wind scoured the Marseille sky a pure blue. The city, the mountains, and the Mediterranean were edged with bold and dazzling clarity, like an Impressionist composition laid on with a palette knife.

So what was I doing four storeys up in a concrete tower block, discussing double glazing with a pair of French intellectuals in earth shoes?

To begin with, this was no ordinary concrete tower block. Le Corbusier's Unité d'Habitation de Marseille is the granddaddy of them all, a 17-storey, vertical village surrounded by acres of landscaped park. Known to the Marseillaise as la cité radieuse (the radiant city), the Unité d'Habitation was erected between 1947 and 1952 to house the families of construction workers who were there to rebuild Marseille's war-damaged port. Its design was so radical for its day that the intended inhabitants refused to move in. Instead, the city's educated elite, its doctors, architects, social workers and teachers, flocked to the building, in what was then an eastern suburb, to snap up the owner-occupied flats, capable of housing 1,600 people.

Skip forward half a century and the structure remains a highly desirable residence for Marseille's chattering classes. It is also a French National Landmark with a hotel on the third level (actually about the 7th floor, but more on that later), where you can sample mid-20th-century architectural utopianism for yourself.

When I told the cab driver my destination, he let me know with a series of Gallic exclamations and gestures that he was impressed, and possibly expecting a big tip. So I was surprised to pull up to what looked to me like a London council estate, complete with windblown grit and graffiti. Brutalism, the style inspired by the Unité d'Habitation, became the vernacular of European public architecture throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The grim familiarity of these masses of rough cast concrete makes it hard to imagine they ever could have been considered avant garde.

In his plan for the building, Le Corbusier included a 21-room hotel. It has been maintained with most of the 1950s features and furnishings (some furniture was replaced by a previous owner but much of the original Charlotte Perriand decor remains). Intended as guest quarters for residents' visitors, the hotel has always been more of a pilgrimage stop on the Le Corbusier Trail. Bevies of architecture and design students, worshippers of minimalism, the above-mentioned earnest French intellectuals, and reverent Japanese students descend upon the place regularly to experience what has become a minor shrine to functional design and minimalism.

Shabby but Authentic

What you make of the Hotel Le Corbusier depends upon whether you are a fan of early 1950s design and materials. The Swiss-born Le Corbusier (1887-1965), whose real name was Charles-Edouard Jeanneret, was one of the most influential and controversial architects of the 20th century. He had definite ideas about how people should live and considered houses "machines for living." Right about now I should lay my cards on the table and tell you that I remain uncharmed by Le Corbusier's design and materials. Nevertheless, a weekend here offers a fascinating glimpse into a resonant, imagined future that never quite happened.

Alban Gerardin, who recently took over the hotel with his wife Dominique, acknowledges that Hotel Le Corbusier is more of a destination for enthusiasts than it is a hotel. "Our visitors are interested in architecture, artists, designers, people looking for unusual places. Ninety-five percent of the people who come know why they are here. They accept that they are in a special place and we can encourage them to stay as if this was their own home."

And like most homes, the Hotel Le Corbusier could do with some sprucing up. Until purchased by the Gerardins in early 2003, the same owner had run the hotel for more than 50 years. The place had been neglected, and at the moment much of it remains tired and shabby. Oddly, this contributes to its appeal.

The current owners are enthusiastic restorers. Having previously spent nine years bringing the locally renowned Art Deco house of architect Gaston Castel back to life, they are now refurbishing the hotel, aiming for a UNESCO World Heritage classification. The day we left, experts from the Le Corbusier Foundation arrived to consult about appropriate materials and furnishings. In keeping with the functional philosophy of the design, they've already approved one departure from period authenticity---the creation of a WiFi hotpsot. Corbusier no doubt would have appreciated the functionality.

No Irony Here

A hotel stay offers access to the rest of the landmark building. For a small fee you can visit a residential apartment to admire the Jean Prouvé staircase, the Charlotte Periand-designed kitchen and classic chaise longue, and the two storey-tall, floor-to-ceiling, thermopane windows. A jigsaw-puzzle arrangement of the 337 units means that access is only available on every third floor. This in turn frees space for the wide, gloomy corridors that are meant to resemble streets in a vertical city.

After our apartment tour, our guide led us to the roof to admire the gymnasium, running track, wading pool, infants school, and mini-amphitheatre. With no irony whatsoever, he sang the praises of the roof's abstract "beach," complete with concrete sand dunes (pictured above). Behind him, the Mediterranean sparkled as it danced along the many real beaches of Marseille's deeply indented coast.

Staying There
Studios with Perriand kitchens, large terraces, shower cabines and magnificent sea views cost 90 euros for up to 4 people. The 50-year-old decor is tired at the moment but the experience is authentic. Large rooms, at 80 euros, lack terraces but are much more comfortable, with polished hardwood floors, sofas, marble and mosaic bathrooms. Continental breakfast costs 8 euros. For more information, consult the hotel's website.

Getting There
Marseille is served by frequent flights from Paris and London. Daily flights from Paris arrive at the smaller airport at Nimes. There are direct flights in summer from the United States to Nice, roughly 100 miles from Marseille. Alternatively, the high-speed TGV Mediterranean line runs from Paris to Marseille. The trip takes about three hours.

Photos by Ferne Arfin

Just Back From the Berkshires

In the Berkshires, thickly-forested hills and valleys provide a stunning background for world-class arts festivals, top-notch museums, and the perfectly manicured lawns of tiny New England villages. Fodor's associate editor Amanda Theunissen reports on a weekend getaway to the famed hill towns of western Massachusetts.

Why the Berkshires?
My husband and I wanted an easy weekend trip from New York City. I'd heard the Berkshires were beautiful and less than 3 hours away, but had never been, so we decided to give it a shot.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
I'd have to call it a tie between seeing Savion Glover (the tap dancer) perform at the Jacob's Pillow Dance Festival and visiting the Norman Rockwell Museum. Both the festival site and the museum have beautiful grounds to explore so you can experience the arts and be completely surrounded by nature.

What surprised you?
Everything is so close together. We stayed in the town of Lee and were only a short drive from all the places we wanted to visit.

What was essential during your trip?
Fodor's guide to the Berkshires. I didn't have time to plan anything for this trip so I just grabbed a copy of the guide before we left. It had everything we needed---maps, recommendations on where to eat, and tons of listings of things to do.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?
The gazpacho at the Union Bar & Grill in Great Barrington. It was made with fresh cilantro and had just the right amount of kick---exactly what I wanted on a hot summer day.

What advice do you have for someone going to the Berkshires?
If you're coming from New York City, the Taconic Parkway is a very pretty drive. Taking the I-87 to the I-90, however, is a lot faster and may be a better choice if you're starting your drive after work on a Friday.

Photo credit: The Inside/Out Stage at Jacob's Pillow, photo by Skip Brown

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Get Hooked on a Gone Fishin' Escapes

Did you know that 500 million people worldwide enjoy fishing? In the U.S. alone an estimated 44 million people sink a line now and then. If you're an angler in the Northeast in search of a good place to throw out your net, you might want to check out the Gone Fishin' Getaways on offer this summer through the New England Inns and Resorts Association.

From a cozy retreat overlooking Gloucester's Annisquam River to a handsome retreat in lake-rich southern Vermont, Gone Fishin' Getaways has something in store for every fisherman and woman. At Cape Ann's Marina Resort, you can charter your own boat, complete with captain, and take a customized fishing tour. At Plymouth's Hawk Inn & Mountain Resort, amateur anglers cast lines in a stocked pond while old hands try their luck in a nearby lake. Landlubbers get in on the act at Meredith, New Hampshire's Inn & Spa at Mill Falls, where guests luxuriate in fish-themed body wraps complete with seaweed treatments and mineral salts.

Here's a full list of the participating properties and deals:

Cape Ann's Marina Resort, Gloucester, MA

Golden Eagle Resort, Stowe, VT

Hawk Inn & Mountain Resort, Plymouth, VT

Indian Head Resort, Lincoln, NH

Inn at Jackson, Jackson, NH

Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth, ME

Sebasco Harbor Resort, Sebasco Estates, ME

Stage Neck Inn, York Harbor, ME

The Arlington Inn, Arlington, VT

The Equinox Resort and Spa, Manchester Village, VT

The Inns & Spa at Mill Falls, Meredith, NH

The Stowe Inn, Stowe, VT

The Tamworth Inn, Tamworth, NH

The Wolfeboro Inn, Wolfeboro, NH

For additional information, log on to www.newenglandinnsandresorts.com, or call 1-888-705-5353

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame puts a personal twist on rock history with its head-turning collection of objects, clothing, and memorabilia once belonging to rock celebrities. Fashion plates can ogle Al Green's white-leather stage jacket, Tina Turner costumes, and a psychedelic brocade jacket worn by John Lennon in 1967.

Handwritten lyrics by Jimi Hendrix will appeal to history buffs, and Janis Joplin's Porsche and a fragment of the crashed plane in which Otis Redding died in 1967 will have completists agog. Objects like John Lennon's report card from primary school and Jim Morrison's cub scout uniform shed an intimate light on people whose real lives have been obscured by glamour. The museum's permanent collection has thousands of items, and there are temporary exhibitions, public talks and films as well.

One Key Plaza, 751 Erieside Ave., Cleveland, OH, Phone: 216/781-7625. www.rockhall.com

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

When Junior Brings a Pal

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Nothing entertains a child like another child. This I know from experience.

On our last vacation, despite being surrounded by all the spoils of Disney World, my daughter still managed to find a way to be bored, pining for the one thing she didn't have with her, her BFF---"best friend forever."

Families who've brought a child's pal on vacation say he or she was the best vacation accessory ever---such a boon, in fact, that my friend Debbie refers to such arrangements as "borrowing" a child for the trip.

Still, bringing a non-family member requires more than just buying an extra ticket. Said child is your responsibility, not to mention another mouth to feed. Having a guest probably also necessitates a change in accommodations since it would be impractical to pack a stranger in the same room with mom, dad, and the siblings.

So what to think about? For starters, there's the little matter of chemistry. Bringing an extra changes the balance of your brood, and how well you all get along will make or break the whole trip. A kid who grates on your nerves at home is going to be equally---if not more---irritating on vacation, especially when you're paying big bucks to get away from it all, and staying in a hotel where there's little room to take refuge. It's your vacation, too, so don't feel compelled to bring along Eddie Haskell, even if he is junior's best bud.

And, make sure he fits well with other siblings. The two pals may be in heaven, but the arrangement may make a third wheel out of little sis. Not that they need to spend all of their time as a trio. But, an exclusive twosome might actually add to your travel woes by leaving one child who is now without even a sibling to play with.

How you vacation is important, too. Are you beachcombers? Night owls? A late-sleeping kid is going to be miserable with a group that needs to be on line for Space Mountain the moment the park opens. A family that likes to go-go-go should bring someone who is similarly inclined, so be clear about your itinerary from the outset.

A few other things to remember:

Homesickness: One friend of mine found her trip infinitely more complicated after her daughter's friend came down with an acute case of homesickness. Ask if the child has been away before. Even then, there's no guarantee that she won't miss mom, but it's less likely to be calamitous for a veteran traveler.

Parenting Styles: To some parents, keeping an eye on the kids means "know where they are." To others, it's a "stay together 24/7" proposition. I'd once planned to set my kids free at the mall to do some errands, but had to change gears when I learned the teen with us was not yet allowed to shop alone. Be specific about your expectations regarding supervision, and ask the other mom to do the same.

Destination: Supervision is easier when there are some well-organized teen activities in place. The Hawk's Cay resort in the Florida Keys, for example, has a nightly club for teens 13 to 17, with air hockey, karaoke, video games, internet access and more ($5 cover). Parents aren't allowed, which of course makes it all the more appealing (the club is open from 4 to 7 for preteens ages 9 to 12 who will need to be signed in and out). Kids are going to want some freedom, too. Destinations with distinct boundaries, such as an all-inclusive resort or a theme park, will be easier to manage than, say, a busy tourist area in Mexico.

Financing: If you're planning on treating, great. If not, lay out finances beforehand. Our plans for Disney World always include a few special and pricey perks like the spiffy new Segway tours at EPCOT. Be prepared to drop some experiences if they're not in the other family's budget.

House Rules: A traveling teen needs to respect your rules of the house. Lay them down at the outset. In my family, I expect my children to help out, even on vacation. So, a teen who expects me to do absolutely everything is not going to be a welcome addition.

Medical Issues: Be sure to bring insurance cards, and ask upfront how to handle the unlikely event of a medical emergency.

One final note: Do yourself a favor and make the invitation to the parents before the child. There's no quicker way to make an enemy than to dangle a lure to somebody else's child before you've gotten parental approval. How popular will you be when the answer comes back, "No, I'm sorry, you can't go to Grand Cayman because we'll be going to Aunt Mildred's 87th birthday party in Pawtucket."

Walkless Walking Tours

"A three-hour tour, a three-hour tour…"

If the mere thought of a lengthy walking tour of a big city makes your feet and head ache, you might consider the latest trend in sightseeing---Segway tours. The tours are named after those odd-looking, two-wheeled "personal transporters" introduced in 2001. Riding around Florence or Paris on a scooter-like transporter might seem tacky, or perhaps just plain silly, but to others it's the perfect alternative to the walk-and-gasp method of traditional guided tours.

Segway tours are now offered in a number of cities worldwide, and while they vary largely by location and company, the average tour costs between $60-80 and includes a 30-minute orientation class. Many tours offer their participants earpieces to listen to their guide's musings. While the "human transporters" relieve the stress of walking, they're not advisable for those who have trouble standing for long periods of time.---Katie Hamlin

Segway guided-tour companies operate in the following cities:

Amsterdam Austin Atlanta Bangkok Chicago Florence Los Angeles

Minneapolis New Orleans Paris Prague San Francisco Sarasota, Florida

St. George, Utah St. Louis St. Petersburg, Florida Vienna Walt Disney World Washington, D.C.

Photo courtesy of City Segway Tours Chicago

Caribbean-Bound?

Hurricane Season in the Caribbean lasts from June 1 through November 30, but it's rare to see a large storm in either June or November. Most major hurricanes occur between August and October, with the peak season usually being September.

Avoiding the Storms: When planning a trip to the Caribbean during Hurricane Season, keep in mind that hurricanes are less likely the further south you go. The ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao) as well as Trinidad and Tobago are rarely hit by hurricanes, though all have been hit by them in the past. Similarly, the islands of Barbados and St. Vincent---as well as the islands below them---are statistically less likely to experience a major hurricane; however, as Grenada discovered in 2004 with Hurricane Ivan, never say never where hurricanes are concerned.

Airlines: If you are scheduled to fly into an area where a hurricane is expected, get travel updates from your airline. If flights are disrupted, airlines will usually allow you to rebook at a later date, but you will not get a refund if you have booked a non-refundable ticket, nor in most cases will you be allowed to change your ticket to a different destination; rather, you will be expected to reschedule your trip for a later date---most often without any kind of change penalty. Some airlines will waive change penalties when a hurricane is a possibility (though not a certainty) so you can rebook your trip in a limited period of time; this gives you an "out" to avoid a rain-soaked vacation you no longer want to take (airlines do this so they won't be bringing a lot of travelers into an area that they might have to evacuate later). If you find yourself stuck on an island during a hurricane, just be aware that your departure may be delayed while aircraft are flown in to deal with the backlog of tourists trying to get off the island, and since the delay is weather-related, the airline will not be reimbursing you for any additional costs, including extra hotel nights, restaurant meals, or telephone calls back home.

Hotels & Resorts: Caribbean resorts do everything in their power to protect guests during a hurricane, but don't be surprised if you are asked to stay in your room or to sleep in a public room during a storm. Food service may be limited, but most resorts go out of their way to keep guests fed and reasonably happy. A particularly destructive storm can make that a challenging proposition, however. If a hurricane warning is issued and flights are disrupted to your destination, virtually every Caribbean resort will waive cancellation and change penalties and will allow you to rebook your trip for a later date; some will allow you to cancel even if a hurricane threatens to strike, even if flights aren't scheduled. Some will give you a refund if you have prepaid for your stay, others will expect you to rebook your trip for a later date. Some large resort companies---including Sandals and SuperClubs---have "Hurricane Guarantees," but these kick in only when flights have been cancelled or when a hurricane is sure to strike; just remember that the guarantees give you a credit only for the days that were directly disrupted by the storm. If there was rain for two days before the hurricane actually struck, you won't be getting any credit for those. On the positive side, if you must stay a couple of extra days before a flight is available, most of the hurricane guarantees will cover your lodging costs for this time. If the resort is not an all-inclusive, you may still be expected to pay for meals and drinks.

Pre-Paid Packages: There's nothing more disappointing than pre-paying for a package deal you can't take because a hurricane is bearing down on the island. Travel companies have different philosophies about this. A few will refund your money if a hurricane is about to hit the island where you've booked your vacation, but you should expect the refund to take at least 30 to 60 days. Most will force you to reschedule your trip. Even if the resort you've booked has a hurricane-guarantee policy, you may have to fight for your 2 or 3 days' refund from the travel company, though most will make good on guarantees, though they might not do so efficiently or happily. This is where a good travel agent comes in handy; your agent can work on your behalf directly with the travel packager. If you've booked your package online, you'll be fending for yourself. If your travel company has its own policy for weather-related cancellations, that policy might also allow you to rebook for a different date, but you'll still rarely get a refund.

Travel Insurance: Doesn't travel insurance protect you during hurricane season? Yes and no. Most travel insurance policies will cover a trip disrupted because of a hurricane (when you are forced to arrive late or leave early for your trip), but you'll be reimbursed only for the affected days until the airport or resort reopens. You will usually be reimbursed for the days you are forced to stay at a resort during a hurricane, but be sure to read the fine print on your policy to make sure you are actually covered. And remember that you'll usually only be covered if you buy your insurance at the same time you book the trip or before any kind of hurricane watch or warning is issued; otherwise, the hurricane might be deemed a pre-existing condition, which means no compensation for you. But if the airlines are operating and allowing passengers to fly to the destination, you'll usually be expected to leave for your vacation, even if a hurricane threatens. Also, most insurers won't pay as long as the airline is flying, even if the resort you booked and paid for is totally destroyed by the storm. In a case like this, it's usually better to take advantage of the airline's more flexible change policy and rebook your trip for a different time and a different resort.

Cruises: The good thing about cruises is that they can usually sail around the worst of a storm. And today's ships are extraordinarily safe. The bad thing is that the cruise you get may not be the cruise you signed on for. A cruise line always reserves the right to reschedule port calls and change itineraries for weather-related reasons; the line might even shift a cruise from the Eastern to Western Caribbean if a hurricane threatens its route. There is almost no chance you'll get a refund just because the port you've longed to see is no longer on your itinerary. You might get a discount on a future cruise or a shipboard credit, but that's about the best you can hope for. If you aren't able to get to your port of embarkation because of weather, be happy that you bought a travel insurance policy. You did that, right?

Track Those Hurricanes: Several web sites track hurricanes during the season, including weather.com, hurricanetrack.com, and accuweather.com.

Carnival Discounts at Antigua's Jolly Beach Resort

The best time of year to visit Antigua is late July and early August, when everyone here celebrates Carnival. Eye-catching costumes, parades, parties, festivals, and cook-outs become the main reason for getting out of bed, or at least off the beach.

Most resorts on Antigua haul out their biggest discounts and bargains during Carnival, including the Jolly Beach Resort, located on the beautiful west coast in Jolly Harbor. The all-inclusive rate for the resort's Carnival Special is $109 per person (per night) and is based on double occupancy for a standard room; $135 per night for single occupancy.

The package is valid for stays beginning July 23 and ending August 7, 2005. Travel must be booked by July 9. Rates include accommodations, all meals, snacks, afternoon tea, house-brand beverages, non-motorized water sports, service charge and all taxes.

If Carnival isn't really your thing, you can loll the hours away on a mile-long white sand beach, dive into a deep blue "fantasy" pool, dine at one of five restaurants, play a game of tennis, or work out in the fitness center.

Photos: (top) Jolly Beach Resort beach (bottom) Exterior Jolly Beach Resort

Toronto Shopping: The Big and the Small of It

The city that created Club Monaco and M.A.C. cosmetics has everything from haute couture to ethnic markets. While Toronto shoppers have some serious mall options, like Eaton Centre and Holt Renfrew, the numerous specialty shops dotting the city encourage day-long treasure hunts. Unique areas to explore include funky Queen Street West, with its street-smart shops; Queen Street East, featuring vintage and antique stores; and boutique-jammed Bloor Street West and Yorkville.

Garments and Garb

Toronto's best bargain outlet, Winners, features designer lines at rock-bottom prices. There are several locations, but the Yonge Street branch, below the elegant Carlu event center, is enormous. 444 Yonge St. 416/598-8800.

Tom's Place is well-stocked with bargains on brand-name suits from Calvin Klein, Armani, and DKNY. Tom Mihalik, the store's owner, keeps his prices low. He carries some women's clothes as well. 190 Baldwin St. 416/596-0297.

For the best in vintage, head to Kensington Markets' Courage My Love, a shop that pulls off a fusion of retro and bohemian treasures, from sunglasses to tuxedos. The in-house cat adds a nice touch. 14 Kensington Ave. 416/979-1992.

Pick out a loud Betsey Johnson evening dress or punky BCBG suit among the trendy pieces at Kitsch Boutique, a shop full of imports from Miami, New York, Los Angeles, and France. Swing through the basement at the Lonsdale branch, where slow sellers are relegated until they're scooped up at half-price. Two locations: 347 Bay St., Downtown, 416/861-9572. 325 Lonsdale Rd. 416/481-6712.

Patriotic Torontonians head to Roots for their favorite leather jackets, bags, and basics, including apparel similar to the Olympic uniforms the company designs for Canada, the U.S., Barbados, and Great Britain. Several locations: 1485 Yonge St., 416/967-4499; 2670 Yonge St. 416/482-6773; 356 Queen St. W, 416/977-0409; Eaton Centre, 220 Yonge St., 416/593-9640; 100 Bloor St. W, 416/323-3289.

Foot Fetish

What Zola lacks in size it makes up for in selection. The little shop sells women's shoes including designs by Sigerson Morrison and Emma Hope. 1726 Avenue Rd. 416/783-8688.

The Mephisto Boutique is a must stop for those with finicky feet. Around since the 1960s, the company only uses natural materials to make its signature shoes. Passionate walkers swear by these shoes and claim they never, ever wear out---even on cross-Europe treks. 1177 Yonge St., 416/968-7026.

Home Interiors

After browsing the Art Gallery of Ontario, a stop off at the AGO Gallery Shop will overwhelm with a wide selection of curiosities, from books on maximal architecture to colorful dollhouses to prints of celebrated paintings. Adults and kids can shop side by side among the books and fun educational toys. 317 Dundas St. W. 416/979-6610.

Club Monaco's flagship home-concept store, Caban, is bright and big, with themed departments, a listening booth, a kitchen, and a fireplace. You can also buy clothing, books, and music. 262-264 Queen St. W. 416/596-0386.

Gems of the Literary and Musical Sort

Well-known and well-frequented, Vintage Sound and Kops Records occupy the same building making it an ideal stop for any music lover. Vintage Sound sells vinyl, 45s, LPs, and CDs from the '50s to '80s, while downstairs Kops offers more contemporary finds, with reggae, hip hop, jazz, and soul. The stores are independently owned, but you must walk through Kops to get to Vintage. 229 Queen St. W. Vintage: 416/598-4039. Kops: 416/593-8523.

At Pages Books and Magazines shelves brim with international and small-press literature, fashion and design books, literary criticism, fiction, and books on film and art. 256 Queen St. W. 416/598-1447.

The Great Outdoors

A much-beloved Toronto spot for anyone remotely interested in camping, Mountain Equipment Co-op sells wares for minor and major expeditions. A baffling assortment of backpacks allows you to choose anything from a schoolbag to a globe-trotting sack, and a rock-climbing wall allows you to try out the rappelling goods. 400 King St. W. 416/340-2667.

Just Back From Alaska

Felice Aarons took a nine-day Inside Passage Cruise on a Cruise West small ship (it holds 104 people, but there were only about 60 on board). She boarded in Juneau, sailed through Glacier Bay National Park, Frederick Sound, Tracy Arm, and Misty Fjords National Monument, made port calls at Skagway, Haines, Sitka, Petersburg and Metlakatla, and finally disembarked in Ketichikan.

What was your best find?
I fell in love with a small town called Haines. I went on a great bird-watching shore excursion where we saw lots of bald eagles and other amazing birds, as well as seals playing in a river. The town is very charming, too, with a long boardwalk, a great local coffee shop, a good bakery, and strangely enough, a brand new indoor skateboarding facility. Apparently it's a great place to come back to and rent a cabin for a few days.

What was overrated?
Perfectly preserved Skagway is one of the most popular ports of call, but it is really commercial (it even has a Starbucks!), and everything from the scantily clad women sitting in the windows of the historic brothel to the Red Onion saloon to the diamond stores is very touristy. Thankfully, there is a great train shore excursion that tells you all about gold rush history and takes you on a beautiful trip through snow-covered mountains.

What was essential during your trip?
A waterproof parka with a hood and zip-out fleece lining. It can start to rain at any moment, and go from T-shirt and shorts weather to frigid within an hour. So, having adjustable, waterproof outerwear was indispensable. Also, I was glad I brought a lot of books, because there is a lot of downtime on cruises, especially on days without port calls.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?
All of the hype about the fish in Alaska is rightly deserved. Even though we sailed before the salmon start running, every meal's menu featured some kind of seafood as an option. Every time we stopped in a port, the chef procured a supply of something amazing, like Dungeness crab or fresh red snapper.

What advice do you have for someone going to Alaska?
If you're thinking of cruising in Alaska, try to book on a small ship. It's the best way to visit Alaska, because you'll see much more wildlife and get to visit smaller and more beautiful ports of call that large ships can't reach.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

All Inclusives: Read the Fine Print

by Lisa Oppenheimer

The average all-inclusive vacation resort touts some pretty big promises.
Everything is included, to quote from one brochure: luxurious accommodations, fabulous food, drinks, world-class entertainment, exciting activities---the whole enchilada.

But "mostly inclusive" might better describe the genre.

True, in most cases, your day-to-day necessities and entertainment needs are amply met, and food is dished out til your bathroom scale begs for mercy. But it's a miscalculation to think you won't be digging into your pockets at all during your stay. Like that all-too-familiar toy disclaimer, additional parts are sold separately. And it's those very things that your kids will want most.

One Price Fits All?

All-inclusives came of age in the 1970s, when Club Med popularized the concept for singles. Couples resorts followed. Today, family all-inclusives are making their mark from St. Lucia to Turks and Caicos, and from Jamaica to the floating hotels known as cruise ships.

Many travel agents recommend them for families with many kids and fussy eaters; enormous buffets suit the "little of this, little of that" appetite (anyone who's ever tried to satisfy a picky little gourmand via pricey room service knows what I'm talking about) while teenage boys can be fed without mortgaging the house.

Land Excursions

Seasoned travelers know enough to budget extra cash for some excursions not included in the deal. Most seven-day vacations will include at least a couple off-property excursions. A swim with dolphins, for example, runs about $100 per person---more than small change if you're traveling with a family of four.

The sting of these excursion fees is especially sharp on cruise ships. On one Bahamian cruise, my family and I were greeted with a list of land excursions---from snorkeling expeditions to bus tours---with costs ranging from $12 to $75 per person (prices for children were slightly less). By the end of a seven-day cruise, you could easily have a $700 tab.

Ask your travel agent about alluring trips that will attract your kids. A favorite escape during our all-inclusive stay in the Bahamas was a day trip aboard an old-time sea vessel (vividly advertised at check-in). Grand total: $400. We wouldn't have missed it, but we also certainly wouldn't have gone had we not budgeted for it in advance.

Sports

Sports is the mama of all extras. "In most places, you're going to pay extra for those kinds of things," says Edward McCourt, a Certified Travel Consultant from Quinnwell Travel in Wellesley, Massachusetts. McCourt suggests vigorously sussing out the recreation options in your package. What's included may vary significantly from property to property. Spa facility fees are mostly---but not always---complimentary, but you'll absolutely pay extra if you're planning on any treatments. Tennis and squash courts may be free, but bring your rackets, as you'll probably have to pay to rent them. Most packages do not include golfing fees.

Sailing craft are free as often as not. Snorkels, masks and fins are usually free, but may have a time limit (note: bring masks from home if you can, keeping in mind that the one-size-fits-all variety is often useless on little faces, leaving kids to snorkel miserably with a face-full of salt water). On-property snorkeling is free, but the most interesting underwater sights are usually somewhere else. The latter will cost you, if not for the snorkeling itself, then for the transportation to get there and back.

With motorized sports, think second mortgage. Your teenagers will zero in on the jet-ski ads the moment they arrive at the resort. Costs can climb to $60 an hour and up. Parasailing is another costly venture. Set up your budget and stick to your guns.

Not-So-Incidentals

Before shutting off your calculator, consider how these other "little" extras might affect your bottom line.

Shopping: While this seems like an obvious extra for any trip, you may be caught off-guard by the big-ticket price of what should be small-ticket items. Those who linger on resort grounds will want to budget cash for those absurdly expensive trinkets you'll be wangled into buying. Twenty-five-dollar T-shirts anyone?

Beverages: In resorts that do not include them, beverages are notoriously expensive (and we're not just talking alcohol). Even "virgin" drinks can cost more than $5, while sodas hover around $1 to $2. And it adds up, especially when balmy weather has you drinking in large quantities. Some cruise-ship passengers resort to buying their drinks at port and keeping them in an ice bucket. Another option: ask about pre-paid cards (available on some ships) to keep a lid on kids' soft-drink tabs.

Tipping: Some all-inclusive resorts on land include tipping, but McCourt advices travelers to bring additional cash for extras. Most cruise ships (save the most exclusive) have made tipping all but obligatory (cruise staff make a good portion of their wages via tips). Between wait staff and cabin staff, a seven-night trip for a family of four could tack a couple of hundred dollars onto your final bill. Most cruises and resorts will offer tip suggestions, but remember: ultimately, the reward should reflect the quality of service.

Upscale Dining: More and more all-inclusives (like Iberostar) are taking the boredom out of dining by building in a la cart restaurants. Not all are included in the up-front tab, but the fee may well be worth it. As one weary traveler put it, "Seven days of buffets can get tired."

Departure taxes: Departure taxes are fees paid to an island government when you leave---approximately $10-$20 per person depending on the island. This is one expense you'll absolutely have to budget for (and cash only)---that is, assuming you're planning on leaving.

Child Care: Most all-inclusives on land or sea include supervised kids clubs by day. But many begin charging upwards of $10 per child per hour for evenings. Make sure to put a stash aside if you plan on a romantic soiree or two.

Insurance: Many travelers turn up their noses at insurance, even policies offered as standard add-ons to a package. Big mistake, says McCourt. "People tend to think of travel insurance as some giant scam," he says, "until something happens." Policies start around $100, but McCourt advises consumers to shop around. "Look very carefully at what you're buying to make sure you're completely covered," he says.

Venice: City of the Dammed?

Two news stories about Venice this week impressed upon us the difficulties this magical city faces at the beginning of the 21st century.
The first one described efforts behind the extravagantly titled Moses Project, a multibillion-dollar proposal to build 78 underwater movable dams around the lagoon to mitigate damaging tidal surges.

Another project on Venice's horizon is a proposed five-mile subway that will run from the airport underneath the Venetian lagoon to the city's historic center. According to The New York Times, Venice Mayor Paolo Costa believes the train will "breathe life back into Venice," a city whose population is half of what it was a century ago and continues to shrink owing to loss of jobs because of the city's remove from the mainland.

The subway hasn't yet been approved, and if it does get the green light no one will see it until 2009. Still, it's clear that La Serenissima is about to undergo dramatic changes. Personally, we're hoping for a lot of collaboration among the engineers on these projects. If not, all the dire predictions of long-term ecological disaster to the lagoon will only make a bad situation worse. ---Chris Culwell

Photo Credit: Corbis

Overlooked and Underrated: Ouro Preto, Brazil

Where? Ouro Preto, about 210 miles north of Rio de Janeiro and 97 miles southeast of Belo Horizonte.

Why? This is where you'll see some of the best examples of baroque architecture in Brazil. It's also the best place to see the work of legendary Brazilian artist Aleijadinho.

The surrounding mountains, the geometric rows of whitewashed buildings, the cobblestone streets and red-tile roofs that climb the hillsides, and the morning mist and evening fog give the town an evocative, pastoral air.

Tasty treat: Queijo do minas, a mild, soft, white cheese often served with fruit or fruit jam.

Top outing: Brazil's oldest gold mine, where you can ride an old mining car through the tunnels and see exposed quartz, graphite, and black tourmaline.

Best restaurant: Le Coq d'Or. The finest restaurant in the region and one of the best in Brazil. The executive chef trained in Paris at the Cordon Bleu culinary institute. The ever-changing menu reflects his Gallic flights of fancy, but with many unusual Brazilian touches. It's in the Solar Nossa Senhora do Rosario hotel.

Where to stay: Luxor Ouro Preto, a 19th-century lodge-style hotel. Guest rooms have views of the city, and you shouldn't miss a meal at the small romantic restaurant, where you can indulge in mineria cuisine.

Don't leave without: Shopping for gemstones. An excellent source for authentic gems---topazes, emeralds, tourmalines---is Luiza Figueiredo Joias (Rua Conde de Bobadela 48).

Don't miss: Igreja de Sao Francisco de Assis, the most impressive of the town's many baroque churches. In addition to designing the structure, Aleijadinho was responsible for the wood and soapstone sculptures on the portal, high altars, pulpits, and crossing arch.

How to get here: Belo Horizonte, the gateway to the region, has two airports. A flight from Rio or Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte is less than an hour. By bus or car the trip takes roughly six hours, mostly because of the bad roads.

10 Tips for Smarter Packing

Lighten your load with this crash course in wardrobe planning.

Savvy globetrotters seem to know instinctively how to travel with less. If you're seriously disciplined, you could conceivably go for months at a time with a small shoulder-strap cabin bag. Of course, not all travelers want to live out of a carry-on bag. There are times when you want to have more with you. Still, efficient packing will save you time and allow room for your purchases.

For our favorite packing strategies, read on:

1. Think it through

Is this a business trip on which you'll dress to impress? Or a cruise or resort vacation where casual clothing is the order of the day? As your itinerary comes together, make a schedule of your days and evenings, and next to each activity note possible outfits, including shoes and accessories. This will help you determine your clothing needs for the trip.

2. Make a list

In a recent Fodor's survey, 29 percent of respondents said they make lists at least one week before a trip. Lists can be used at least twice -- once to pack and once to repack at the end of your trip. This way you'll be sure to remember everything you've brought with you.

3. Know local customs

Local dress codes should be key to your wardrobe. In some resort areas, an anything-goes attitude applies, whereas in others many restaurants frown on diners with bare feet or those wearing shorts, bathing suits, or even T-shirts. Going abroad? In many places, traditions of dress differ from ours; check with your destination's tourist office and consult a good guidebook. A dignified look goes a long way: think skirts below the knee or trousers, and shirts that cover shoulders and elbows.

4. Heed the comfort factor

It goes without saying that you should never leave on a trip without well-broken-in shoes. Similarly, don't run out and buy a new wardrobe. You will probably want to wear each item you bring several times during your trip, so you're better off with clothing you know and love -- clothes that are comfortable and make you feel good.

5. Keep transit plans in mind

Remember, you have to get there from here. If there's one thing that can turn a pack rat into a minimalist, it's a vacation spent lugging everything you've packed over long distances. Consider how you're getting to your destination and how you'll be getting around once you arrive. Packing light is less critical on trips when you're driving with your family and staying in one place than when you're flying on an airplane and moving around once you land.

6. Do the wash-and-wear math

You can pack fewer items if you don't mind doing laundry in a hotel sink or if you will be staying in one place long enough to have laundry and dry cleaning done during your trip. You'll have to pack more if you'll be moving at a dead run for most of your journey, changing hotels every day, or if you don't trust the quality of the local laundries and dry cleaners to handle the clothes you want to take.

7. Make your clothes work hard

Stick to one basic wardrobe look -- urban chic, for instance, or sporty casual -- and choose clothes that you can wear at least twice in a week (three times is better). When all your tops go with all your bottoms and all your bottoms work with all your shoes, mixing and matching can yield plenty of fresh looks; just add scarves and jewelry. (For a week's trip, you should look smashing with three bottoms, four or five tops, a sweater, and a jacket that can be worn alone or over the sweater.)

8. Watch your colors

Similarly, try to build your wardrobe around just two or three complementary colors, preferably two neutrals and one accent, such as black, white, and olive green. If everything goes together, you'll get more mileage out of fewer pieces. And remember that prints and dark colors don't show spots and soil as quickly -- think black T-shirts rather than white ones.

9.Practicality rules

As much as is possible, pack items that are lightweight, wrinkle resistant, compact, and washable. Slimmer silhouettes, for instance, will generally pack tighter than flared or ruffled looks. Clothes made of fabric with built-in wrinkles tend to travel beautifully, while lightweight linen creases like crazy. Try this simple wrinkling test: Intentionally fold a piece of fabric between your fingers for a couple of minutes. If it refuses to crease, it will probably come out of your suitcase looking fresh as well.

10. Follow the weather

Start checking the temperatures for your destination a week before your trip. Having up-to-date weather information allows you to revise your packing list appropriately and to consider buying sunscreen, insect repellent, long johns, or whatever else you may need for the weather. If rain is in the offing, waterproof your shoes with a good silicone spray. And be sure to consider the humidity level.

Package Deals to See D.C.'s New Sluggers

This summer, one city's loss is another city's gain. The Montreal Expos are now the Washington Nationals, and the baseball team's inaugural season is well underway at RFK Stadium. While little was expected from the Nationals in their first season, the team now stands at the top of the National League East Division. Game tickets, costing from $7-$45, are still available.

In response to the success of the hometown favorites, several D.C. area hotels are offering packages to lure fans of America's favorite pastime to the nation's capitol to catch the Nationals in action:

Photo courtesy of the Washington Nationals

New York: 22 Hot Shopping Destinations

It's been said that you can find just about anything in New York, whether it be used jodhpurs or $10,000 andirons. Here's a shopping itinerary to fit general needs, but if you're really jonesing for jodhpurs and andirons you're sure to find them at one of these places. Fodor's New York shopping pages have exact addresses to these and other great stores, shops, and boutiques.

Antiques
Spend two hours at the Manhattan Art & Antiques Center on 2nd Avenue at East 55th Street, probably your best bet for andirons; then swing over to East 57th Street for a posh array of European, American, and Asian treasures. Stroll westward across East 57th Street, stopping at Israel Sack Inc., nearby on 5th Avenue, for its superb American antique furniture. Then head up Madison Avenue to Didier Aaron, Barry Friedman Ltd., and Leigh Keno in the East 60s, and DeLorenzo, Leo Kaplan, and Florian Papp in the East 70s.

Bargains
Begin by checking for any sample sales---you're bound to find some---and hit them first. Then head down to the lower tip of Manhattan to discount emporium Century 21, which has amazing bargains, not to mention a lot of junk. You have to spend time looking through the dross for the good stuff, but you're sure to find something if patient. Then take a cab to Hester and Orchard streets and shop north along Orchard Street to East Houston Street; be sure to stop in at Klein's of Monticello. Go a bit further north into NoLita to check out Find Outlet for boutique fashions, then hustle west to tackle Loehmann's for a range of men's and women's clothing, from inexpensive basics to designer items. A reminder: many Lower East Side shops are closed Saturday. If you're in midtown, trek east to Lexington and 59th Street and the new H&M. This bargain wonder is awfully close to Bloomie's, but not the prices.

Home Furnishings
Start with a bang at ABC Carpet & Home on Broadway; this phenomenal emporium could eat up hours on end, so keep an eye on the time and move on to Greenwich Village to William--Wayne & Co. for elegant decorative items (or try to stop by the uptown branches, which are larger). If your bags aren't too heavy yet, head down to SoHo, making sure not to miss Moss and Design Within Reach, then walk east and poke around De Vera and the pocket-size boutiques on Elizabeth Street between East Houston and Spring streets.

Get back into a big frame of mind at the new Crate & Barrel at the corner of Houston and Broadway, then cab it back uptown to the Terence Conran Shop for something modish. Finally, if you're looking for basics, head over to Bloomingdale's, open late on Thursday, or to Macy's, open late Monday, Thursday, and Friday.

Overlooked and Underrated: Girona, Spain

Why? A colorful medieval town perched on a hillside and steeped in history. The city's charm and historical depth come from its narrow medieval streets and architecturally alluring cathedral and castle.

Location: In Catalonia, 60 miles northeast of Barcelona.

Top Outing: The walk along the Passeig Arquaeologic, outside the city walls, where you'll get an astounding view of the cathedral's 11th-century Charlemagne Tower (pictured right).

Don't Miss: The Banys Arabs, or Arab Baths. These compelling examples of Moorish and Romanesque design were built by Morisco craftsmen in the late 12th century and are evocative of an important historical period in Spanish history.

Also worth seeing is the haunting Jewish Quarter. Before the Jews were expelled in 1492, they were forbidden to have doors or windows facing the street. The entire population lived in a maze of small, steeply sloping streets completely cut off from the rest of the city. The enclave, both atmospheric and haunting, is rich with history. The Museum of Jewish History (Carrer de la Forca 8) has one of the finest collections of medieval Jewish funerary slabs in the world.

Taste Sensation: The menu at Girona's finest restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, is international, but with a Catalonian twist. Expect everything from steak tartare with mustard ice cream to trotters with sea slugs. Carretara de Taiala 40. 972/222157.

Where to Stay: At Ultonia, the spacious and comfortable rooms are traditionally furnished with antique corner cabinets and sturdy tables. The staff is friendly and exceptionally accommodating. Gran Via Jaume 1 22. 972/203850.

Just Back From Austria

This May, Robert I.C. Fisher, editor of Fodor's Vienna to Salzburg, traveled to Austria and found nearly everyone in a tizzy getting ready for January 27, 2006---the kick-off for a yearlong, razzle-dazzle party to honor the 250th birthday of its most famous homeboy, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Why Austria?

Raindrops on roses. And whiskers on kittens. Bright copper kettles, and...need we say more? Yes, lots more: glittering Baroque churches, breathtaking Alpine mountains, sugar-coma desserts in Vienna coffeehouses, and Mozart, Mozart, Mozart! Salzburg's hills are alive not just with the Sound of Music sites but the sounds of bulldozers: new Mozart concert halls are nearing completion while the city's hilltop Museum der Moderne---a contemporary art museum---opened last year. But if the country is hopping to a hip new beat, the white-gloved, champagne gemütlichkeit of once-imperial Austria is still there to enjoy. In fact, I was tempted to get my very own waltzing certificate at Vienna's Tanzschule Elmayer.

What was the highlight of your trip?

A native New Yorker, I'm one of those people who thinks the Matterhorn is a tuba. Never having seen real mountains (yawn) before, I almost literally walked on air during my Sound of Music tour through the Salzkammergut lake district, where the majestic peaks surrounding St. Gilgen---the town with the candle-snuffer cupola'ed church glimpsed in the first minute of the film---create an overwhelming view of Alpine splendor. Paging Julie Andrews's big-screen entrance!

What was the best thing you ate?

Vienna's sausage stands are famous so I had to enjoy the best of the würsts---a Käsekrainer at the Opera stand, located behind the state opera house. This bratwurst---studded with melted cheese bits, grilled to perfection, and served with a mountain of mustard and a mug of beer---was so delicious I "went native" the next morning and had it for breakfast.

What surprised you?

Graz, Austria's third-biggest city, actually hides a storybook, once-upon-a-timefied Altstadt (old town) that seems built of gingerbread and barley sugar---you feel like you're in an 18th-century painting. And even a short excursion into the neighboring hills (head for Piber's spectacular Lipizzaner horse estate) takes forever, as nearly every inch of the countryside is worth a look, especially along the Schilcher Wine Road.

What advice do you have for anyone traveling to Salzburg?

Take in a performance at one of the city's modern concert halls (three of which host the famed Salzburg Music Festival every August), but be sure to time-warp back to Wolfie's day at the Mozart Dinner Concert, offered in the candlelit Baroque Hall of St. Peter's Abbey. The room's decor looked as if it had been squeezed out of a whipped-cream tube, the musicians were in brocade and velvet, the food was deli-schloss, and---the cherry on top---the melodies magnificent. Mozart rocks!

Robert I.C. Fisher is the editor of Fodor's Vienna to Salzburg guide.

Photo Credit: (1) Gunda Bleckmann (2) R. Fisher

Photo 1: Robert atop Salzburg's Mönchsberg hill---now the site of the Museum der Moderne, this terrace is famous as the setting for Julie Andrews's "Do-re-mi" in The Sound of Music movie.

Photo 2: A view of Mozart's Salzburg birthplace (the yellow house in the background).

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Not all Kids Club are Equal

by Lisa Oppenheimer

No two kids clubs are the same. Just ask my daughters.

Veterans of kids clubs worldwide, both have experienced the ups and downs of supervised resort programs, from a stellar club in St. Lucia (endless scavenger hunts and seashell forays) to a less than stellar one in Antigua (stale children's videos and cookies to match).

Finding the right kids club---and knowing what you're getting---is a challenge. Though many hotels tout shiny new kids clubs, differences in quality can be vast. A brochure's boast of "Lots of things for your kids to see and do" may translate into "We have coloring books and a VCR." So it's a good idea to check around.

The first question to ask yourself is how much you plan to use hotel child care. The most basic child care (a safe, well-supervised play room with some toys) will do for a single evening. A TV-deprived child might even be grateful for a couple of hours of coloring and watching videos while mom and dad dine on foie gras.

At Disney World, a handful of supervised clubs scattered throughout the resorts are open from roughly late afternoon to midnight, catering to parents longing for a meal devoid of chicken nuggets. They're all roughly souped-up play places, but there are qualitative differences. Some are cleaner, others jazzier. The Neverland Club, with its entrance through the Darling children's bedroom window, has a food buffet that my oldest daughter, now a teen, still talks about today.

A trip that hinges on the kids being happily entertained is a whole other matter. Hyatt's Camp Hyatt has a great reputation for elaborate programs that keep kids busy indoors and out. Other "camps" can be found at some Loews, Four Seasons, and Ritz Carlton properties as well as at many all-inclusive resorts and on cruise ships. Some are so good that kids actually beg to go back. Just like enrolling your kids in school, you'll want to ask some basic questions:

Ratio: Care-giver-to-child ratios can vary vastly from hotel to hotel, and from age group to age group. At Club Med, three-year-olds have a maximum ratio of 4.5 to 1; similarly aged children on the Disney Cruise line will find a ratio of 15-to-1. Even if you're not bothered by high ratios, make sure your child won't feel lost in the crowd.

Care Givers: What are the qualifications of child-care providers? Are they first-aid trained? Is there a trained water-safety and rescue expert? If there are no enrollment limitations, how are they handling the overflow?

Facility: How old is the facility? What's in it? Do children have the option of leaving the premises or will they spend all supervised time within four walls?

Program: Elaborate facilities don't always guarantee the best program. One resort we visited spent so much time focused on its state-of-the-art educational software and science gizmos that my children said it felt like school.

Ages: Don’t assume a resort with a kid club will automatically accommodate your child. Club Med's clubs entertain kids from age 4 months to 17 years, but not every age group is accommodated at every resort.

Rates: Some resorts include the kids club in the room rate, others charge by the hour or by the day.

Hours of Operation: Some programs don't operate on weekends; others scale back hours off-season. On the other hand, ultra-low ratios of off-season travel can net excitingly individualized experiences. My kids still remember the trip when being the only two in the club netted them special privileges, like making desert in the kitchen with the chef.

Size Limitations: In order to maintain ratios, many programs limit the number of children enrolled in the club. Some cruises and resorts (such as Club Med) allow you to sign the kids up ahead of time. Others only do registration on site. Be sure to ask, as programs can fill up quickly. On cruises, programs can get booked before the ship leaves port, so if you haven't signed them up, run (don’t walk!) to the kids's club desk on the day of embarkation. Most of the information can be culled from reservationists, but you’ll have to ask specifically as it's not usually volunteered.

Photo: Club Med, Ixtapa

The Return of 'Tut'

Tutankhamen and the Golden Age of Pharaohs was the first museum show to wear the moniker "blockbuster." When it first toured the U.S. in the late 1970s, the exhibit of artifacts from graves of Egypt's 18th dynasty drew millions of unexpected visitors on both the east and west coasts, creating a sensation among museumgoers. Museum curators are hoping for a similar reception this fall when "King Tut" returns to the United States for a national tour. The first stop on the tour is the Los Angeles County Museum, where the 100-plus objects from Tut's tomb will be on view from June 16 through November 15. The exhibit then moves to Florida's Fort Lauderdale Museum of Art and then to Chicago's Field Museum. Philadelphia's Franklin Institute is the show's final stop in the U.S.

Tickets for the LA County Museum's "Tut" show are on sale now, contact the museum box office (323) 857-6000.

15 Sizzling Hot Miami Shops

People fly to Miami from all over the world just to shop. With 13 shopping centers, Miami's Design District, and boutique-crammed Lincoln Road, this is a tough town to leave empty-handed.

Garments and Garb

For women's fashions by Barbara Bui, Catherine Malandrino, and other up-and-coming designer clothing and accessories, Chroma is where local fashionistas go. 920 Lincoln Rd. 305/695-8808.

Silvia Tcherassi, the Colombian designer's signature boutique in the Village of Merrick Park, has feminine and frilly dresses and separates accented with chiffon, tulle, and sequins. 358 San Lorenzo Ave. 305/461-0009.

Little Havana's La Casa de las Guayaberas sells custom-made guayaberas, the natty four-pocket dress shirts favored by Latin men. Hundreds are also available off the rack. 5840 S.W. 8th St. 305/266-9683.

South Beach hipsters flock to Fly Boutique for the latest in used clothing. At this resale boutique, 1980s designer pieces fly out at a premium price, but vintage camisoles and Levi's are still a resale deal. Be sure to look up at the ceiling---the eclectic lanterns are also for sale. 650 Lincoln Rd. 305/604-8508.

You can indulge your favorite little person at designer children's boutique Alexa & Jack. The store carries pint-size fashions by D&G Junior, Moschino, and Sonia Rykiel, bathing suits by Vilebrequin, and baby clothes by Juicy Couture. There are also accessories and gift items. 635 Lincoln Rd. 305/534-9300.

Flashy Footwear

Koko & Palenki has a selection of men's and women's shoes and accessories by Casadei, Charles David, Stuart Weitzman, and Donald Pliner in its Coconut Grove, South Miami, and Aventura locations. CocoWalk, 3015 Grand Ave. 305/444-1772.

Proper Pampering

Brownes & Co. provides luxurious products to those who appreciate them most. Cosmetics include Molton Brown, Body & Soul, Le Clerc, and others. It also sells herbal remedies and upscale hair and body products from Bumble and Bumble. Try to resist something from the immense collection of scented European soaps in all sizes and colors. A popular in-house salon, Some Like It Hot (305/538-7544), offers some of the best waxing in town. 841 Lincoln Rd. 305/538-7544.

Unrivaled in the area for its immense offerings, The Fragrance Shop carries more than 800 perfume oils in a setting that resembles an 18th-century apothecary. The staff will customize a unique blend for you or sell you a hand-blown perfume bottle made by one of many international artisans. 612 Lincoln Rd. 305/535-0037.

Home Interiors

Holly Hunt is a spectacular 40,000-square-foot showroom of custom indoor and outdoor furniture, lighting, and fabrics by Holly Hunt and other revered designers, such as Christian Liaigre, John Hutton, Rose Tarlow, and Mattaliano. If you're going to buy, bring a designer, but browsing to see how the best of the best do home decor is free and inspiring. 3833 N.E. 2nd Ave. 305/571-2012.

Serious Miami-style furnishings and home accessories can be bought at Arango Design Store, which has been designing and selling cutting-edge home fashions since 1959. 7519 N Kendall Dr. 305/661-4229.

Eclectic Elements carries a playful collection of very Miami modern and retro furniture, mirrors, and clocks that would have pleased the Jetsons. 2227 Coral Way. 305/285-0899.

Architectural Antiques carries large and eclectic items---railroad crossing signs, statues, English roadsters---in a store so cluttered that shopping here becomes an adventure promising hidden treasures for the determined. 2520 S.W. 28th La. 305/285-1330.

Specialty Shops

9th Chakra offers inspirational books (in English and Spanish), crystals, jewelry, feng shui products, candles, essential oils, and music to meditate by. In a new location, the store offers even more gifts for the soul. Tarot card readings are performed in English and Spanish on alternating days. 530 Lincoln Rd. 305/538-0671.

Le Chocolatier tempts with hand-dipped and molded chocolate creations, many made into gift baskets and other gift items or eaten on the spot. You can linger to watch chocolate being made through a glass partition. 1840 N.E. 164th St. 305/944-3020

At El Credito Cigars, workers at wooden benches rip through giant tobacco leaves, cut them with rounded blades, wrap them tightly, and press them in vises. Dedicated smokers find their way here to pick up a $90 bundle or peruse the gigantes, supremos, panatelas, and Churchills available in natural or maduro wrappers. 1100 S.W. 8th St. 305/858-4162.

Cities by the Sea

Photo credit: Lisbon Tourism Association

Growing up, watching my parents struggle to choose our family's annual vacation destination was like watching a game of ping-pong. My Type A mom wanted to expose us to the great culture capitals of the world, but dad was keen on packing some folding chairs and a leaky red cooler into the car and heading to the beach. If only they'd known that picking a vacation spot doesn't have to be so black and white---sun and culture do mix, at least in some cities. Here are a few:

In Barcelona, your beloved can tour Gaudí's Sagrada Familia while you lounge in new swim trunks on Sant Pol de Mar, a beach just north of the city.

You can serenade your honey in a gondola in Venice, and then head for the city's Lido beaches for a walk hand-in-hand along its eight-mile shore.

Experience the vitality of Lisbon's Bairro Alto and then head to the Caparica Coast for sun and sardines.

Stateside, Los Angeles has some of the country's best museums---the Getty Center, the Los Angeles County Museum, the Norton Simon---as well as California's best beaches, including Santa Monica State Beach. ---Katie Hamlin

Other Urban Destinations With Beaches Nearby:

15 Funky and Fab Shops in San Francisco

With its swank boutiques, funky thrift stores, and the famous Union Square shopping district, which includes the San Francisco Shopping Centre and the Crocker Galleria, San Francisco is one of the best shopping destinations in the United States. From couture to counterculture, much of the city's appeal stems from the distinct personalities of its unique neighborhoods.

The Written Word

As the city's most famous and historically interesting bookstore, City Lights Bookstore is where the Beat movement of the 1950s was born, grew up, flourished, and then faltered. Best known for poetry, contemporary literature, and translations of Third World literature, City Lights also carries books on nature, the outdoors, and travel. 261 Columbus Ave. 415/362-8193.

Travel guides at Get Lost Travel Books range from standard to obscure. The store also carries language-instruction materials, luggage, and other travel accessories. 1825 Market St. 415/437-0529.

Garments and Garb

Expect big-time men's fashion at Billy Blue, where the goods include luxurious camel-hair coats, cashmere sweaters, and impeccably tailored Italian suits. 54 Geary Blvd. 415/781-2111.

Jeremy's, located in trendy South Park, offers steep discounts (up to 50%) on top-notch men's and women's apparel by designers such as Prada and Jil Sander. A collection of stunning evening wear is in the back. 2 South Park Rd. 415/882-4929.

For higher end fashion priced to please, the hipster set heads to Mingle for the handmade work of emerging designers as well as more established labels like Deity Aton, Marco Marco, and Quennie Forever. The men's section, featuring designs from Caffeine, is smaller but just as trendy. 1815 Union Street. 415/674-8811.

Flashy Footwear

From the chunky to the sleek, the European designs carried at Gimme Shoes are top-notch. And if $400 seems steep for a pair of sandals, perhaps you haven't seen the classic styles by designer Robert Clergerie. 2358 Fillmore St. 415/441-3040; 50 Grant Ave. 415/434-9242; 416 Hayes St. 415/864-0691.

Art Appreciation

Thousands of new and used CDs, records, and cassettes, including titles from punk and hip-hop to jazz and classical, are bargain-priced at Amoeba Music. Occasional in-store performances attract large crowds. 1855 Haight St. 415/831-1200.

The spectacular collection of international art and antiquities at Xanadu Gallery includes Latin American folk art, Oaxacan wood carvings, and tribal art from Africa, Oceania, and Indonesia. Masks, sculptures, woven baskets, tapestries and textiles, and books on art and culture are also displayed. If nothing else, the shop is worth a visit to see its Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home, where a spiral ramp recalls New York City's Guggenheim Museum. 140 Maiden Lane. 415/392-9999.

A spirit of fun imbues Hang, an industrial-chic space showcasing the work of up-and-coming artists. The range of prices rises from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand. A rental program lets you take a piece home before buying it. 556 Sutter St. 415/434-4264.

Foodie Fun

Billing itself as the oldest delicatessen west of the Rockies, Molinari Delicatessen has been making its own salami, sausages, and cold cuts since 1896. Other homemade specialties include meat and cheese ravioli, tomato sauces, and fresh pastas. In-the-know locals grab a made-to-order sandwich for lunch and eat it at one of the sidewalk tables. 373 Columbus Ave. 415/421-2337.

The egg-shape truffles, which come in 30-plus flavors, are best-sellers at the city's classiest chocolate purveyor, Joseph Schmidt Confections. However, the store's real eye-poppers are its edible chocolate sculptures, which vary from windmills to life-size turkeys. Cream-filled chocolate disks, called Slicks, are also a treat. 3489 16th St. 415/861-8682.

The upscale Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market places baked goods and fancy pots of jam alongside organic basil and heirloom tomatoes. The Saturday market is the grandest, with about 100 vendors packed both in front of and behind the building. Ferry Plaza, Embarcadero at north end of Market St. 415/291-3276.

The jumble of used cookware stacked to the ceiling at Cookin': Recycled Gourmet Appurtenances can be a little overwhelming. Luckily, the owner will point you in the right direction after quizzing you on your cooking plans. The merchandise runs the gamut from hand-hammered French copper pots to a bewildering selection of garlic presses. 339 Divisadero St. 415/861-1854.

Specialty Shops

A beloved Seattle-based co-op, REI was founded by a group of mountain climbers in 1938, but it didn't open a San Francisco outlet until 2003. In addition to a vast selection of clothing and outdoor gear, the store rents camping equipment and repairs snowboards and bikes. 840 Brannan St. 415/934-1938.

The furniture and objets d'art on display at Antonio's Antiques might include an 18th-century French harp or delicate tortoiseshell miniatures. If you like the shop's pieces, which lean toward French and Italian items from the 17th and 18th centuries, you may also want to visit its warehouse store. 701 Sansome St. Warehouse: 701 Bryant St. 415/781-1737.

Photo credit: Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, photographer Aaron Kohr

Go to Mongolia---No, Really!

If you're searching for some place truly exotic to go on your next trip, consider Mongolia. This small, landlocked country, ensconced between Russia and China, has long been a paradise for mountain climbers, camel trekkers, and fans of nomadic cultures. Is it easy to travel here? Not really. Airfares are in the thousands of dollars, flights are long, and comfortable accommodations are lacking. Paying a visit to Mongolia just got a little easier, however, with the opening of Mongolian Resorts, the country's first full-service resort. Located just 35 kilometers from the capital city, Ulaanbaatar, the resort offers all the usual amenities of home and then some. Expect roomy suites and villas, a restaurant serving international cuisine, a terrace bar, a spa and gym, swimming pool, tennis courts, a driving range, ATV park, library, and a movie theater. Mongolia Resorts rests on a vast acreage of pristine land (photo, above) and serves as an ideal expedition base for camel-treks through the somewhat forbidding countryside. The resort can arrange tours throughout the year for every level of thrill seeker.

MuseumWatch: New York, Bern

Friedlander, A Retrospective, Museum of Modern Art, New York, June 5 through August 29

Strange things happen in Lee Freidlander's photography. Sometimes the frame cuts off a figure mid-stride. In others, a pole surmounted by a shadow bisects an otherwise perfect composition, and in one image a fire hydrant and telephone poles form an entrancing geometric pattern over a desolate landscape. There's a wildly improvisational flair to these images, a readiness to use anything and everything in the environment for the purpose of art. His work is the visual equivalent of jazz, the music that inspired the photographer's earliest work in the 1950s and '60s. Half a century later the photographer is still churning out visual razzmatazz, as the Friedlander retrospective at MOMA well attests. The show, up through August 29, is the largest survey of Friedlander's work to date and includes 477 black-and-white images in addition to six early color portraits of jazz artists. Highlights include the famously droll series of TV sets tuned to soap opera stars and his hilarious and ironic look at American monuments. The strongest work in the show, however, are the photographer's 1960s images of America's urban landscape---busy city streets, abandoned shop fronts, billboards, trashed cars, and tacky architecture. ---Chris Culwell

Zentrum Paul Klee, Bern Switzerland

Swiss painter Paul Klee was an enormously prolific artist. At the time of his death in 1940 he left behind more than 5,000 paintings, drawings, and sketches. For years, the best place to see Klee's creations was Bern's Kunstmuseum, but the work was doled out piecemeal, making it hard to grasp the sweep of the artist's prodigious output. That problem has been solved with the opening this month of Zentrum Paul Klee, a multidisciplinary arts center in Bern, Switzerland. Designed by architect Renzo Piano, the center is designed to mimic the subtle undulations of the hills on which it rests, a clear reference to the delicate and lazy shapes conjured in Klee's singular work. The center is home to almost 4,000 of the artist's images, and will show them in rotating exhibits with traveling shows from other arts institutions. In addition to the exhibition space, Zentrum Paul Klee houses an activity center for children, a theater, and a concert hall. ---Chris Culwell

Photos: (top) New Mexico, 2001, Gelatin silver print, Collection of the photographer, 2005 Lee Freidlander; (bottom) Zentrum Paul Klee

Hotels for the Whole Family?

by Lisa Oppenheimer

The best accessory I ever got for my family's vacation was a door. Not just any door, but the one separating my children's hotel room from my own.

Don't get me wrong---I love my children. I just love them a lot more if I don't have to sleep with them. The last time we vacationed in one hotel room there were traffic jams to the bathroom, nightly games of musical beds, and an Olympic-caliber obstacle course made up of two double beds, two children, a half-dozen suitcases, and approximately five stuffed animals per child.

While some families may have mastered the art of communal living, my brood is not among them. We need a buffer zone, if not for sleep then at least to get a little peace during our downtime.

For most families, the one-room squeeze is born of economics. Let's face it: two rooms at your average Ritz are going to be pricey. Happily, more and more hotels are offering multi-room setups that won't completely empty your wallet.

"That seems to be the thing families want most," says Brian Shanle, general manager of Orlando's new Nickelodeon Family Suites Holiday Inn, an all-suite hotel that, as the name suggests, specializes in family accommodations.

Two-and three-bedroom suites (see photo) have Nickelodeon themes and bunk beds in the kids' room (divided from the rest by a curtain), a master bedroom for mom and dad, plus a living room with a sofa bed. Add that to that in-room video games, a nightly show, and even a kids' spa, and you've got a theme-park vacation where you might actually get some shuteye, and for less than you might pay for just one room at a loftier chain. Rates for a two-bedroom are $169 to $250 depending on season, although deals are available on-line.

Other all-suite hotels shouldn't be overlooked just because they don't have Nickelodeon's bells and whistles. Sure, decor at such chains as Embassy Suites may be less playful than the Holiday Inn's, but the rooms are perfectly nice---and you still get that all-important door.

Wyndham's line of Summerfield Suites offers spacious one- and two-bedroom accommodations at reasonable rates. The Los Angeles area's Summerfield isn't at Disneyland, but as it's near many of the area's famous landmarks, it makes a nice home base.

Before you book your family into that hotel---either suite or cramped room---consider these points:

Know what you're asking for: In hotelspeak, "adjoining rooms" and "connecting rooms" are not the same thing. The former refers to rooms next to each other; the latter has an actual door joining them. Also, if booking connecting rooms, make sure the arrangement can be guaranteed; many hotels (such as Disney) only concede to put in a "request," an inconvenience if you discover only upon check in that the request cannot be met. Even if they guarantee it, call the front desk the morning of your arrival to confirm.

Ask About Deals: At low season, some hotels offer unadvertised deals such as "buy one room, get the second half off," so ask when making reservations.

Be Time Wise: Corporate hotels (such as Summerfield) are often discounted on weekends, making Fridays and Saturdays a good time to visit.

Think Economy: Two rooms in a budget property often cost less than one in an ultra-deluxe haunt. True, you won't get all the luxury; but those shiny perks will lose their luster if you’re looking at them through sleep-deprived eyes.

Ask Questions: A number of chains have begun incorporating family suites into their hotels. Such accommodations are often significantly cheaper than traditional luxury suites. But specify your requirements: some so-called suites have only a partition (versus a full wall) between sleeping areas; others may be no more than an L-shaped room.

Shoot for the Stars: The price difference between a one-bedroom (where mom and dad share the sofa bed in the living room while the kids lavish in the master bedroom) and a two-bedroom (where everyone gets a real bed) is often less than you might think. One weekend at a Summerfield, the difference was a mere $20. But you won't know unless you ask.

Just Back From Colorado

Mary Beth spent six days in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, following the San Juan Skyway. She started in Ouray, crossed the white-knuckle Million Dollar Highway over Red Mountain Pass into Durango, made a quick detour west into the Four Corners area, then headed east to Pagosa Springs. She crossed the Wolf Creek Pass on her way up to Colorado Springs, where she ended her trip atop Pike's Peak.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

Horseback riding at the Wilderness Trails Ranch. One morning we rode up into a peaceful mountain meadow with amazing views. Other highlights: crossing the gorgeous Wolf Creek Pass; talking archaeology with a park ranger at Mesa Verde; standing at the foot of the tallest sand dunes in North America and looking up at the snow-covered peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains; and soaking in the hot springs at Pagosa and watching the river visibly rise with the snowmelt.

What were your best finds?

The Colorado Kolsch at the Steamworks Brewing Company in Durango (their beer bread is also excellent). I loved hanging out in Durango, a laid-back college town where every car has either a dog in the backseat or a mountain bike strapped to its bumper, or both. There are a ton of restaurants, a couple of microbreweries, and some beautifully restored buildings.

What surprised you?

Mesa Verde is phenomenal. Somehow I had an image in my mind of a single cliff dwelling--that iconic picture of Cliff Palace that you see everywhere. I was stunned when I looked down into the canyon and saw that there are actually dwellings lining both of its sheer sides. It's incredible to think of those cities looking across the canyon at each other over the centuries.

What was essential during your trip?

I drank more water than I thought possible for a human being to drink. I was thirsty all the time. Bring a big water bottle or buy a case of the bottled stuff. At this altitude, you'll need it. I also used a ton of sunblock and escaped without a burn (and maybe a little tan).

What advice do you have for someone going to Southwest Colorado?

Plan your time carefully. It will take longer than you think to travel the mountain roads--you just can't go 70 miles an hour up there. Plus you'll be pulling over and jumping out for pictures constantly. The San Juans are ready-for-their-closeup beautiful. Also, do at least one of the "-ing" sports: hiking, biking, rafting, riding. It will be the highlight of your trip. Plus, when you're exhausted, you can go out for a really good beer.

Photo credit for photo #2: San Juan Mountain Range in southwest Colorado, Durango Area Chamber Resort Association, c/o Colorado Tourism Office

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Just Back From Walt Disney World

Emmanuelle Alspaugh, Fodor's Editor

In one week, Emmanuelle, her husband, and 14-year-old sister completed a whirlwind tour of the major Orlando theme parks, including Walt Disney World, Universal Orlando, and SeaWorld. Their method? A theme park per day, plus two on Day 7.

Why Walt Disney World?
When I was 14, a friend from school invited me to travel to Walt Disney World with her family. It was a generous gift and a trip that I never forgot. This year my sister Sophie turned 14, and I had the opportunity to arrange a similar experience for her.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
The coasters! Our favorites were the Hulk and Dueling Dragons at Universal's Islands of Adventure; Rock 'n' Roller Coaster at Disney MGM---Studios; and Space Mountain at the Magic Kingdom. Also, I loved the sense of fantasy conveyed by the colors, architecture, and landscaping of the theme parks. Another highlight: the hot-air balloon ride we took on our last morning.

What was essential?
Sneakers. The first time I went to Walt Disney World, I wore sandals, and after two days of pounding the pavement on quarter-inch soles, my feet were miserable. You definitely want comfortable sneakers when you're walking 12 hours a day. Also, sunglasses and a hat. And a cell phone, because it was easy to get separated. Lastly, a guidebook and a sense of humor---the crowds, the heat, the lines, the prices can all combine to drive you insane. (We saw at least two families per day having a total meltdown.) But with good planning and a sense of humor, that is definitely avoidable.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
One morning I advised Sophie to change her white pants for jeans because we planned to ride Kali River Rapids, a water ride at the Animal Kingdom. Sophie happened to get soaked through on the ride, and I remembered too late that jeans are just about the worst thing to wear when they're wet.

What advice do you have for someone going to Walt Disney World?
Avoid waiting in line by getting to the theme parks early and taking advantage of the free FASTPASS system, Disney's method of crowd management. Each morning we arrived at park opening (usually 9 a.m.) and rode the most popular rides first with little or no waiting. Then we would leave around 4 p.m., the hottest and most crowded part of the day. In the evening we often went back to the park for a few more rides or a show. Also, try to eat at off times, like lunch at 11 and dinner at 5:30, or breakfast at 10:30 and lunch at 2:30.

Photo credit: Second photo Splash Mountain by Walt Disney World©

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

"Fodorites" Rate the Best Romantic Getaways

Looking for a romantic spot to celebrate or rejuvenate your love? "Fodorites" have found bliss around the world, in isolated Caribbean sanctuaries, a four-star Gotham hotel, an old-world Parisian jewel---even a chintz-laden bed-and-breakfast in the countryside. Click on the links below to read the idiosyncratic Rants & Raves of travelers like you, followed by a Fodor's review. We've divided our sampling into four general categories: Island Idylls, Escapes to Nature, Big-City Pleasures, and Hideaways and Small Inns.


Island Idylls

Aruba: Bucuti Beach Resort

"Romance at its best." -- Jenni, Texas

"Blast at Bucuti." -- Kim, Connecticut

The Big Island, Hawai'i: The Fairmont Orchid

"Orchid blossoms." -- Carol, New York City

"Magical and elegant." -- Greg, Los Angeles

Jamaica: Sans Souci Resort & Spa

"We'll keep coming every 6 months until the money runs out." -- Dennis, New York

"Fun and upscale with out being pretentious.." -- Miss Lynn, Atlanta

Lanai, Hawai'i: Lodge at Ko'ele

"A truly beautiful hotel." -- Paul, Los Angeles

"Beautiful dreamland." -- Tim, London

St. Barth's: Hôtel Isle de France

"I cannot say enough about this romantic treasure." -- Kim, Minneapolis

"Classy, understated elegance." -- Pam, Dallas

St. Maarten: Hotel L'Esplanade Caraibes

"Just booked my third stay." -- Ben, New Jersey

"Reserve the loft studios which are fabulous and very romantic." -- Mary, Minneapolis

Escapes to Nature

Costa Rica: Makanda by the Sea

"The perfect honeymoon retreat" -- Victoria, Florida

" Jungle fun, Romantic Sunsets." -- Andrew, Georgia

Great Barrier Reef, Australia: Lizard Island Lodge

"Escape to your dreams." -- Nobel, Boston

"Romantic week." -- Clive, Hong Kong

Mexico: Maroma

"Paradise." -- Katherine, Atlanta

"Paradise found!" -- Shelly, New York City

Rocky Mountains: Riversong Bed and Breakfast Inn

"Beautiful setting." -- Heather, Denver

"Perfect romantic getaway. -- Lisa, Milwaukee

Big-City Pleasures


London: The Lanesborough

"A honeymoon made for royalty!" -- Cheryl, New York City

"Never have we been so satisfied and content." -- V, Richmond


New Orleans: House on Bayou Road

" A fantastic B&B" -- JoAnn, Germantown

"Hate to reveal this secret." -- Jayne, Chicago


New York: Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park South

"This IS the best hotel!" -- Lucy, Oklahoma City

"The service is impeccable and the decor is gorgeous." -- Kevin, Canada


Paris: Hôtel Lancaster

" A Fabulous Stay" -- Dr B, Baton Rouge

" A Special Place" -- Art, CT


Rome: Mecenate Palace Hotel

"Molto bene." -- M.H., Indianapolis

"Beautiful and elegant." -- J.C., New York City


San Francisco: The Archbishop's Mansion

" Heavenly!" -- Scott, Austin

"Absolutely gorgeous." -- Wendy, Los Angeles

Hideaways and Small Inns


Dominican Republic: Natura Cadanas

"A very magical place" -- Suzanne, New Jersey

"Its luxury is in its privacy." -- Nicole, New York City

Maui, Hawai'i: Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow

"A private, comfy and relaxing home base while exploring the beauty of Hana.." -- Stacey, New York

"Both the artfully designed interior and meticulously maintained garden are a balm for the soul." -- Bill, LA

Key West: Mermaid & The Alligator

"Truly lovely house." -- Cathy, Indiana

"Breath of fresh travel air." -- Rob, Elkhart

Santa Fe: Inn of the Anasazi

"Perfect for couples." -- Pat, Atlanta

"Romance at the inn." -- Michelle, Montana

For more advice from our "Fodorites," here are some forum's threads to honeymoon-related posts on the US Board, the Carribean Board, Europe Board and Latin America Board.

Looking for more assistance to that perfect honeymoon or romantic getaway? Go to our forums and ask.

Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels & Resorts

A Bookworm's Tour of London

London. You'd might as well call it Bookville. There are thousands of bookstores here, and dozens of them are located on or around Charing Cross Road. When the Borders chain burst on the scene a few years back it was a wake-up call for the British Waterstone's chain. Books are big business, and that has been reflected in a welcome number of new bookstores. Foyles, with its enormous range, is the market leader.

GENERAL INTEREST BOOKS

History buffs, computer nerds, and thespians make regular pilgrimages to Blackwell's. Spacious and well organized, the retailer also stocks foreign-language books as well as academic texts. 100 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

A quirky, labyrinthine, family-run business, Foyles has undergone a massive modernization program. You'll find popular titles here in addition to new and unusual ones. Although it's had a makeover, Foyles retains certain musty, Victorian charms, right down to the sometimes strange shelving organization. 113--119 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Hatchards remains a bibliophile's dream. You can revel in its old-fashion charm while perusing the well-stocked shelves lining the winding stairs. The place has been in business for more than 200 years. Interesting book signings. 187 Piccadilly, St. James.

Browsing for books is a hedonistic leisure activity at Waterstone's, the monster-size, six-story store by Piccadilly Circus. A sweeping staircase takes you up to the fifth-floor Studio Lounge, where until 10 p.m. you can sip a gin-and-tonic while browsing through stacks of books. There's a gift shop, art gallery, coffee and juice bars, and the chairs are quite comfortable. 203--206 Piccadilly, St. James.

SPECIALTY BOOKS

Audio Books
For books on tape, Talking Bookshop has a large selection of fiction, autobiography, and famous memoirs in a selection to suit both adults and children. It's just behind Oxford Street. 11 Wigmore Street, Maryleborne.

Books for Children
In addition to kiddie books, the Children's Book Centre carries cards and a mass of multimedia products. When you're done with the books, head to the basement, where the toys are kept. 237 High St., Kensington.

Film Books
The Cinema Bookshop has every angle of the industry covered. A comprehensive selection of old and new books can be found here, covering everything from the industry's earliest efforts to its latest trends. 13 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury.

Cookbooks
Wanna learn how to make Bulgarian rice, a Cornish pasty, or the perfect vindaloo? Books for Cooks is the place to go. The store has cookbooks from around the globe as well as a complete line up of celebrity chef editions. Occasional cooking demonstrations offer tempting samples. 4 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill.

Gay and Lesbian
In the heart of London's gay community is Gay's the Word, a hot spot for literary and leisure interests, with a good selection of new and old books, magazines, and videos. 66 Marchmont Street, Bloomsbury.

Mysteries
English readers love mysteries and crime stories, and Murder One has them in abundance. This establishment is a must for fans of traditional Agatha Christie novels and sci-fi stories. It has everything from crimes of passion to fiendish horror. 71--73 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Secondhand Books
Patience is rewarded with real finds at Fisher & Sperr, which has fine secondhand books as well as new titles. The bay shop front displays prints of old London views, and inside is a section devoted to the history of the capital. 46 High Street, Highgate.

Travel Books
Stanfords, spread over several floors, specializes in travel books and maps. If you've been looking for multi-language travel books, this is the best place to go. 12 Long Acre, Covent Garden.

Expect the world at The Travel Bookshop, which is great for globetrotters and armchair travelers alike. Fans of Hugh Grant will recognize this cozy space from the actor's movie, Notting Hill. 13 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill.

Women's Books
When the shop couldn't pay the rent, the management of Foyles gave it room on the third floor of their building. Silver Moon stocks the largest choice of literature---from politics to romance---for women, by women. 113--119 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Check Out America's Halls of Fame

"There's no place like home." Dorothy's mantra from The Wizard of Oz has taken on new meaning as Americans forgo expensive trips abroad for adventures close to home. If you've already gambled at a Las Vegas casino, posed with Mickey at Disney World, and sampled the splendors of Yosemite, consider something a little different, like a pilgrimage to one of America's many halls of fame.

The choices are even more diverse than you might think. Strippers, inventors, bowlers, and gospel singers all have halls of fame, and the famous and unknown featured in these pages are equally exceptional. The halls they grace are guaranteed to yield a highly entertaining and educational experience.

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Overlooked and Underrated: Dominica

Why: It's a nature lover's paradise and the Caribbean's best-kept secret.

Tasty treat: The Caribbean's special mountain chicken---a spicy fried frog's leg.

Top outing: Hiking to Boiling Lake's bubbling cauldron of blue water to watch the gases escape from the molten lava below.

Where to stay: In a rain forest at the Papillote Wilderness Retreat, where you can take a dip in a hot spring mineral pool and admire vibrant, flowered terraces filled with exotic birds and butterflies.

Don't leave without: Diving into a submerged volcanic crater where rare fish and coral reef surround you.

Don't miss: Mixing it up at the Amateur Bartenders' Soca Rum Night at Cellars Bar.

Where it is: Dominica is wedged between the two French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique.

How to get here: American Eagle flies into Melville Hall Airport every afternoon from San Juan---during peak seasons twice a day.

Just Back From LAS VEGAS

Sarah Sper, Associate Editor, Fodor's

With just 48 hours in Sin City, Sarah crammed as much Vegas in as she could: gambling, buffets, poolside lounging, a Cirque show, the Flying Elvi, and a tour of the new Wynn Las Vegas.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
Playing Pai Gow Poker at Hard Rock. I'm really addicted to this game, even though I'm sure I could make more money (or lose it) playing something more risky. And the dealers at Hard Rock are my favorite---a little bit edgy, but super friendly and helpful. I played for about an hour and walked away with $50---now that's what Vegas is all about!

What was your best find?
The lone $5 roulette table at Mandalay Bay on a Saturday night. Most of the big-name casinos, like Hard Rock, The Palms, Bellagio, and The Venetian, have really high minimums on weekends. At Wynn Las Vegas, the minimum blackjack buy-in on busy weekend nights can get up to $100!

What was overrated?
Rehab, the pool party at Hard Rock on Sunday afternoons. If you're staying here, you can skip the line; otherwise, it's a $30 cover and the line doesn't move. Besides that, you have to wait inside (wasting valuable sun time!). After standing in line for an hour, we headed back to Mandalay Bay where we were staying, nabbed a couple of lounge chairs and margaritas, and basked in the sun.

What surprised you?
Wynn Las Vegas. There are little areas all over the hotel where you can escape the hectic feeling of the Strip. I grabbed a coffee at this café called Sugar & Ice and headed out to the patio. It's small---maybe 10 or 15 tables---and flanked by a tall, rocky waterfall that completely obscures the Strip. All you see and hear is water---no honking horns, no ringing slot machines.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
Not telling the cab driver not to take the airport tunnel when I got in the cab at the airport. Cabs in Vegas charge by distance, and apparently the airport tunnel route to the Strip is the longest (although usually the fastest). Though I'd learned about this illegal practice from one of my Las Vegas writers, I was busy organizing my luggage and didn't notice the route my driver was taking until it was too late.

2nd Photo: Wynn Hotel

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

Traveling with Your Pet

Health problems and emergencies when traveling with your pet are not much different from problems at home. If anything goes wrong, take your pet to the vet. If you have any questions or concerns about your pet's health, contact a vet. Following are some general tips on things to do before you leave.

Know Your Pet's "Normals"

You should know all your animal's normal vital signs, including temperature, heart rate, respiration rate and the frequency of eating, drinking, urinating, and defecating. Consult your vet to help compile this list.

Any variation in your pet's normal heart rate, pulse, temperature, or urination or defecation may be an indication that something isn't right. Furthermore, you should take your pet to the vet in the case of persistent loose stool, vomit, blood in the stool or vomit, shortness of breath, excessive slobbering, abnormal body posture, loss of appetite, runny nose or eyes, or shaking.

Breeds of animals with pug noses such as Boston terriers, pugs and bulldogs, and Himalayan and Persian cats often have difficulty breathing at high altitudes, and some airlines advise against these animals being transported by air.

Medicine and First-Aid to Have on Hand

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Many public areas and lodgings use poisons to get rid of insects and rodents. These are also poisonous to pets. When you register ask if any poisons are used, and always keep your pet leashed when in public areas.

Pet Packing|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Seven Wondrous Hotels of the World

Where you end up staying while traveling sometimes turns out to be the most adventurous part of a trip. Herewith are a couple of interesting places you might want to rest your head.

Commune Boutique Hotel
These 11 villas, nestled between the mountainous landscape of China's Yanging County, near the Great Wall, were designed by 12 of China's most important architects. The interior spaces, each with 4 bedrooms and spectacular views, were created by a team of international interior designers. Prices range from $888 to $1,088 a night.

Earth Lodge
If getting back to nature is more your thing, the Earth Lodge at the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, 500 km east of Johannesburg, in South Africa, is the place to go. All suites are underground, and interiors are designed to create an environment similar to the outdoors, with rooms sculpted out of the rock and furniture items made of tree bark and clay.

Icehotel
Chill out at the Icehotel, a hotel made entirely of snow and ice in Jukkasjarvi, Sweden. Temperatures range from 16-25 F (-4 to -9 C), so the ice never melts. Guests stay toasty-warm slumbering in thermal sleeping bags spread over reindeer skins that pad the beds of snow and ice. Hot lingonberry juice and a visit to the hotel sauna are morning musts. Guests can head to the hotel's Absolut Icebar for something "on the rocks" before perusing ice sculptures in the Ice Shop. The frosty fun starts at $397 a night.

Renaissance Toronto Downtown at the Skydome
The phrase seventh-inning stretch takes on a whole new meaning if you're a lucky guest at the hotel housed in the Skydome, the home of the Toronto Blue Jays. Of the hotel's 348 rooms, 70 are field side and have sweeping views of the massive stadium. Guests should beware---a few years ago an unsuspecting couple was caught on the stadium's Sony Jumbotron, the world's largest, indulging in a little private time during a game. Rates start at $215 per night, but can get pretty pricey during the baseball season.

Hotell Hackspett
Guests---well, there's only room for one---can fulfill childhood dreams of living in a tree house at the Hotell Hackspett (Woodpecker Hotel) in Vasteras, Sweden. Located 60 miles from Stockholm, the small loft sits 43 feet up in a 300-year-old oak tree in Vasaparken, the city's central park. Guests climb a ladder to their hideaway, which has a bedroom, kitchen, and a toilet. No one is an island, and that's certainly the case here as tourists are forever gawking at the tree-dwelling guests. Tree bliss can be yours for $94 a night.

Kokopelli's Cave Bed & Breakfast
If you've ever been overcome by the desire to live in a cave, head to Kokopelli's Cave Bed & Breakfast, a luxury hollow carved into the side of a mountain in Farmington, New Mexico. The 1,650-square foot cave comes with hot and cold running water, fully equipped kitchen, plush carpeting, a hot tub, and Southwestern-style furniture. The entrance to the grotto is 280 feet above the La Plata River, affording visitors with majestic views of the Chuska Mountains. Don't bring a lot with you. The cave is 70 feet below the surface, and there's no elevator.

Propeller Island City Lodge
Lastly, one of the strangest places of all is the Propeller Island City Lodge in Berlin.
The hotel offers 30 rooms, each with its own unique design, from mildly unusual to completely wacky. Wanna sleep in a coffin or a padded cell? How about a jailhouse or a psych ward? There's always the Upside Down Room, in which the furniture is suspended from the ceiling. Take your pick, there are plenty to choose from. Gute Nacht.

100 Years of Sin

Although civic-minded types have tried their best over the years to turn Las Vegas into a family destination, 35 million people come here each year to do one thing---gamble. There are roller coasters and kiddy attractions, it's true, supermarkets and libraries, yes, but the real draw in Vegas is seductive Lady Luck.

If you've been waiting for the right time to take a spin on the dance floor with Lady Luck, this is the year to do it as Las Vegas celebrates its 100th birthday throughout 2005. Celebrations have been planned all year long, and the calendar includes parades, mass parties, fireworks, and plenty of cultural activities.

Although the parties have been going fast and furious since January 1, things really get going in May. The granddaddy of the centennial celebration is the Helldorado Days, a revival of the party that began during the Depression and continues today at venues throughout Sin City. Here's the lowdown on everything else you need to know about Sin City's Big 100.

Great Deal to Vegas
Wynn Las Vegas, hotelier Steve Wynn's latest venture, wants to bring you to Sin City between July 4 and August 27, 2005. Fly from New York and spend three-nights at Wynn Las Vegas starting at $539 (double occupancy). Three nights from Miami start at $599, and three nights from Houston are $645. Three nights from Chicago (O'Hare) start at $565. Price includes midweek air, accommodations, ground transfers and hotel taxes. Call 888-271-1584 to book.

Photo Credits: Las Vegas News Bureau

The Ultimate Source for Dirt-Cheap Airfares

To nab the absolute lowest fares available, you might want to check out National Report, a blogspot listing the web's lowest airfare deals. Updated daily, the site can alert you to some incredible savings. Here are sample fares (roundtrip) from the blog's May 11 entry:

Dallas/Toronto $148 (United)
Charlotte/San Diego $243 (United)
Atlanta/Boston $163 (Northwest)
New Orleans/Cincinnati $158 (Northwest)
New York/Kansas City $147 (Delta)
Indianapolis/Ft Lauderdale $118 (Northwest)
Phoenix/Norfolk, VA $138 (Northwest Tue/Wed thru Sep12)
Tampa/Providence $110 (American, Northwest, US Air)

Bargains for Midwestern Beach Lovers

With roundtrip fares to Cancun, Montego Bay, and Cozumel starting at $99.99, Funjet Vacations' pre-summer sale is a bargain if you live in the Midwest. Most travel dates are at the end of May or early June. There is no booking deadline, but at these prices fares are sure to go quickly. Here are sample fares:

Roundtrip to Cancun from:

Kansas City - $99.99
Detroit - $149.99
Cleveland - $149.99
San Antonio - $199.99
Chicago Midway - $249.99

Roundtrip to Montego Bay from:

St. Louis - $99.99
Dallas - $149.99

Roundtrip to Cozumel from:

St. Louis - $99.99
Dallas - $199.99

MuseumWatch: Chicago

Spirit into Matter: The Life and Work of Photographer Edmund Teske, Chicago Art Institute, May 21-July 31, 2005

When innovations in photography made cameras and darkroom equipment available to the masses in the 1920s, photography entered a magical phase of experimentation. Suddenly artists came out of the woodwork bearing weird double-exposure images and otherworldly duotones. Dramatic lighting, color filters, and irregular lenses became de rigueur. The range of possibilities fired the imagination, and in Europe photographers like Alexander Rodchencko, Hans Bellmer, and Laszlo Moholy-Nagy used these and other techniques to launch a European avant garde.
America had its own photo-experimenters in the 1930s, among them Edmund Teske (1911-1996). Largely unheralded in his own time, Teske now has something of a cult following. A good portion of his unusual work is on display in Spirit into Matter, running May 21-July 31 at the Art Institute of Chicago. Featuring more than 130 prints, the show, organized by the J. Paul Getty Museum, focuses largely on Teske's attempts to stretch the limits of the medium. Close to half of the prints in "Spirit into Matter" reveal the photographer's deft manipulation of duotone solarization techniques and composite printing, while others underscore the artist's nervy and up-to-the-minute mastery of abstract composition. Teske was a Chicago native, and many prints in the show serve as a documentary record of the city in the 1930s. Elegant studies of Frank Lloyd Wright's Chicago architecture as well as portraits of Hollywood celebrities from Teske's Los Angeles years are also included.---Chris Culwell

Photo credits: (top) Dinh Q. Lee, "We Promised," 2004. Courtesy of the artist and Shoshana Wayne Gallery, Los Angeles; (bottom) Edmund Teske, "Gertrude Teske, Composite with Olive Hill, Hollywood," 1932 and 1945; printed 1945. J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

16 Stops on a San Diego Shopping Safari

A shopping safari in San Diego means casting a wide net, so give yourself plenty of time to navigate the city's many unique districts. Hillcrest and the Gaslamp Quarter are known for hip stores, and La Jolla's Prospect Street and Girard Avenue for its world-class boutiques. Coronado is famous for gift shops.

Bustling Marketplaces

Ferry Landing Marketplace has 30 boutiques, and a Tuesday afternoon Farmers' Market is a great place to shop while waiting for a ferry. The views of San Diego's downtown skyline from the ferry landing are breathtaking. 1201 1st St., at B Ave. 619/435-8895

San Diego's premier flea market, Kobey's Swap Meet, is an open-air weekend event that seems to expand in size every week, with sellers displaying everything from futons to fresh strawberries. The back section, with secondhand goods, is a bargain-hunter's delight. The swap meet is open Friday-Sunday 7-3; admission is 50 cents on Friday and $1 on weekends; parking is free. San Diego Sports Arena parking lot, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd. 619/226-0650.

Garments and Garb

If you're shopping for something to hit the water in, head to Pilar's Beach Wear to browse through California's largest selection of major-label swimsuits. 3745 Mission Blvd. 858/488-3056.

At Jacques Lelong, located in the 1882 Yuma Building, you'll find unique women's fashions with reasonable prices for the high-end look. From formal dresses to T-shirts and jeans, there are also the shoes, jewelry, scarves and accessories to go with them. 635 5th Ave. 619/234-2583.

The classic Ivy League look is king at the Ascot Shop. This traditional menswear shop offers fashions by Kenneth Gordon and Talbott, but you can also nab Hawaiian shirts. Gene Williams, a La Jolla fixture, offers professional shoeshines in the back of the shop most afternoons. 7750 Girard Ave. 858/454-4222.

Home Interiors

Antique-lovers head to San Diego Hardware, a local favorite since 1892, to find Victorian treasures. 840 5th Ave. 619/232-7123.

Cooks drool over Great News Discount Cookware's kitchen tools, gadgets, mandolines, and chinois. There's a cooking school in the back, an extensive selection of cookbooks, and excellent customer service. 1789 Garnet Ave. 858/270-1582.

The Written Word

Old-fashioned Bay Books is the ideal place to sit, read, and sip coffee on an overcast day by the sea. International travelers will love the large selection of foreign-language magazines and newspapers, and a section in the back is devoted to children's books and games. There are plenty of secluded reading nooks and a sidewalk reading area with coffee bar. 1029 Orange Ave. 619/435-0070.

You can introduce old friends to your kids at Prince & the Pauper Collectible Children's Books. Snaking bookcases in the 4,000-square-foot store reveal 75,000 books as well as little corners perfect for tucking into a book. Most titles are gently used hardbacks, some rare, many collectible, and there are out-of-print, first edition, and signed volumes. 3201 Adams Ave. 619/283-4380.

Specialty Shops

Master Cuban cigarmakers hand-roll all the goods on sale at Cuban Cigar Factory. The walk-in humidor is well-stocked with stogies from Nicaragua, the Dominican Republic, and many other countries. They'll ship domestically and internationally. Retail outlets are at the Horton Plaza and Fashion Valley malls. 551 5th Ave. 619/238-2496.

Products rarely seen in the United States are available at Alexander Perfumes and Cosmetics, which claims to have the largest selection of fragrances in California. Its unusual French cosmetic lines include Lancaster, Darphin, and Orlane. 7914 Girard Ave. 858/454-2292.

You can save yourself a trip to La Serenissima by exploring Lamano Gifts, which carries a wide selection of papier and ceramic Venetian Carnival masks. You'll also find the traditional costumes worn during Venice's Carnival, including black hooded capes. 1298 Prospect St. 858/454-7732.

Encinitas' Lou's Records has thousands upon thousands of records, spanning the history of rock, from the 1950s to the latest releases in new indie-rock. Staffers direct you to the good stuff. Potential visitors should check out the shop's website for info on scheduled in-store performances. 434 N. Coast Highway 101. 760/753-1382.

Art Appreciation

Gallery Old Town sits on one of San Diego's oldest streets and features a rare collection of photojournalism by Alfred Eisenstaedt, Margaret Bourke-White, and Gordon Parks. 2513 San Diego Ave. 619/296-7877.

Often crowded at night with after-dinner strollers, the Chuck Jones Studio Gallery of Old Town is devoted to the animation art of Chuck Jones, the famous Warner Bros. cartoon director. 2501 San Diego Ave. 619/294-9880.

Presents for Your "Other" Children

At Original Paw Pleasers, a bakery for Fido and Kitty, you'll find oatmeal "dogolate" chip cookies, carob brownies, and "itty bitty kitty treats." 1220 Cleveland Ave. 619/293-7297.

15 Sensational Seattle Shops

Seattle, the birthplace of Starbucks, Grunge, and Bill Gates, is rivaled only by New York and LA when it comes to crystal-balling the Next Big Thing. Rewarding ingenuity is this Northwest gem's forte, so shopping here can be a kicky experience as stores are generously stocked with one-of-a-kind, artsy products, many of them made by local manufacturers and artisans. From Pioneer Square to Capitol Hill, Seattle is a shopper's delight.

Home Decor

Great Jones Home takes inspiration from current fashion trends, filling this spacious store with an eclectic mix of antiques, linens, and ornaments for your home. One wall is devoted to delectable imported textiles. 206/448-9405.

Twist (photo, right) carries theatrical and whimsical jewelry, crafts, and furnishings---all handmade in America. Twist celebrates its 25th anniversary throughout 2005 with trunk shows by various prominent jewelry artists. 206/315-8080.

Elliott Bay Antiques is a premier source for top-quality Chinese antique furniture and Buddhist sculptures. 206/340-0770.

Bookstores

Elliott Bay Book Company, an enormous independent bookstore, stocks 150,000 titles arranged on rustic wooden shelves in a labyrinth of rooms. The store hosts lectures and readings. A side room contains used books on all subjects; some are signed first editions. 206/624-6600.

University Book Store, on the UW campus, is the nation's second-largest independent college bookstore. There's a well-stocked general book department, lots of university souvenirs, and author events all year long. 206/634-3400.

Shoe Stores

Lola Pop indulges feminine cravings for high fashion footwear, handbags, and accessories from Italy and France. Look for Cynthia Rowley, Nancy Nancy, and L'autre Chose. 206/547-2071.

J. Gilbert Footwear wraps your feet in fashion and comfort with Taryn Rose designs. The shop also sells sportswear, accessories, and the Terra Plana line of men's shoes with styles named after famous architects. 206/441-1182.

Clothing

Les Amis is all about luscious fabrics. Look for ultra-feminine dresses, gorgeous knits, and frothy lingerie from the best up-and-coming lines. 206/632-2877.

Opus 204 is a must-shop destination for locally designed women's clothes in luxurious fabrics and artistic silhouettes. The shop also has great raincoats. 206/728-7707.

Vintage Chick carries men's and women's clothing and jewelry from the 1920s to the '70s---most of it funky and cute. Vintage bridal and evening wear is especially popular; expert alterations are available. 206/625-9800.

Girly Shops

Bellefleur is a sensuous little shop that flutters with sexy European undies. It also has lotions and potions. 206/545-0222.

Burnt Sugar, the store on the corner with the rocket on the roof, carries whimsical vintage furniture, hand-crafted photo albums, soaps, candles, jewelry, and other delights. Spend some quality time at the cosmetic bar sampling products by Susan Posnick, Body & Soul, and Somme Institute. 206/545-0699.

Olivine Atelier dubs itself a "Paris Apartment" boutique and proves it by being well-stocked in Europe's recent trends in clothing, accessories, and lingerie. 206/706-4188.

Markets

Pike Place Fish Market is the place to go for the region's specialty, salmon. The friendly, fish-flinging experts here will wrap up your purchases and even ship them cross country for you. (Don't forget to ask them if they work for scale.) 206/682-7181.

Uwajimaya is one of the West Coast's largest Japanese grocery and gift markets. A busy food court carries everything from Japanese bento-box meals to Hawaiian dishes. There's also a well-stocked housewares section, a huge bookstore, a bank, and Yuriko's cosmetics, where you can find Shiseido products that are usually available only in Japan. 206/624-6248.

Just Back From BRAZIL

Shannon Kelly, Fodor's Associate Editor

On a 15-day vacation in Brazil, Shannon studied Portuguese for five days in Salvador, then hopped down the Bahia coast for a few days by ferry and bus before flying south to spend her last five days in Rio.

Why Brazil?
I studied in the Amazon for a semester in college, and I've wanted to go back ever since. I love the country for its slow pace, friendly and open people, beautiful beaches and countryside, and because it's not overrun with tourists.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
Walking to school in Salvador, stopping to buy pão de quiejo (cheese bread) along the way, and feeling like a local---then heading straight to the beach after class. Other highlights: watching capoeira on the beach in Salvador; lazing on practically deserted white-sand beaches in Morro de São Paulo; getting our van stuck in the mud near Porto Seguro; shopping at the Hippie Fair in Ipanema; drinking coconut water on the boardwalk in Copacabana.

What surprised you?
I was with a friend who doesn't speak Portuguese, and it was really hard for her to communicate. I didn't realize that so few people speak English in tourist hotspots like Rio. Also, the theft problem in Salvador. Locals bring nothing to the beach---just a blanket and a small amount of money, tucked into their swimsuits. On the other hand, in Rio I felt just as safe or unsafe as in any big city. Another surprise: the long-distance buses were so much nicer than Greyhounds (fully reclining seats)!

What was essential?
Sunblock. And after I realized that too late: aloe. Sunblock is outrageously expensive, and it's hard to find more than SPF 8. Aloe gel was impossible to find. I ended up breaking off a leaf from an aloe plant in front of a hotel. Other essentials: umbrella; Portuguese dictionary; nice shoes or sandals in Rio; beach bag; sarong; water with me at all times.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?
Moqueca (seafood stew made with coconut milk and dende, or palm, oil) in Salvador. My favorite was from a street stand on a corner in Barra. It was recommended by a local, and I'm glad I braved it! In Rio I loved the ice cream at Mil Frutas in Ipanema: ginger-cinnamon, tapioca, chocolate with passion fruit ... so good.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

Disney's Having a Party

©2005 Disney

©2005 Disney

Return visitors to Walt Disney World should take note that the pricing system has changed completely. The new Magic Your Way system offers more flexible ticketing options and more affordable packages. It works like this: You buy a base ticket for the number of days you'll be visiting Walt Disney World. The more days you buy, the cheaper the per-day price. For example, a three-day ticket costs $171 ($57 per day), while a five-day ticket costs $193 ($38.60 per day). Clearly, Disney wants you to spend your whole trip on property and not go off to, say, Universal Orlando. From there, you can add on the Park Hopper option, which lets you move from park to park within the day for $35 extra per ticket. And for $45 extra, you can enjoy a few visits to the water parks and minor attractions. The Premium Ticket combines all the options for a better price. You can create your ticket based on your preferences at WDW Reservations.
---Emmanuelle Alspaugh

Photo credits: ©2005 Disney

Hotel Fox: Where You Can Sleep With Art

Imagine if a crew of distinguished graphic artists, illustrators, architects, and various other designer-artist types were given free rein to design a hotel from the ground up. That's pretty much what happened in Copenhagen earlier this year when automaker Volkswagen took over the Park Hotel and turned it into Hotel Fox.

No, Volkswagen isn't entering the hotel industry. The automaker simply wanted snappier digs in which to house the mass movement of auto-industry journalists who descended upon the city in Spring 2005 for the unveiling of the automaker's revamped Volkswagen Fox.

The hotel makeover has been a godsend for the neighborhood, the Jarmers Plads. The area has been thronged with tourists since the doors opened, and guests who've been lucky enough to get reservations can't stop talking about its transformation from run-of-the-mill hostel to an art gallery where you can live with the art.

We don't know if the great buzz about Hotel Fox has carried over to the Volkswagen Fox, but if the car is as cool as the hotel, sales should be brisk.

Eating Out with Your Kids- Washington, D.C.

At Old Ebitt Grill (675 15th St. NW), a Washington tradtion since 1856, parents like the homeamde pasta, and kids like the goodies accompanying their meals.

Georgia Brown's (950 15th St. NW) offers down-home, yet upscale Southern-style cooking on tables covered with white butcher paper, perfect for crayon creations.

At the Corner Bakery (5333 Wisconsin Ave. NW) your children can look through the glass to see what they want to eat before they order. Each children's meal comes with a drink and a choice of cookie.

Gettysburger Address (cheeseburger), federal (chicken) fingers, and presidential pasta are on the kids' menu at the Capitol City Brewing Company (2 Massachusetts Ave. NE) in the same building as the National Postal Museum.

For those adventurous eaters, Haad Thai (1100 New York Ave. NW) offers kids crispy rolls and chicken on a skewer.

Watch salmon being cooked over a fire pit built into the floor of the National Museum of the American Indian's Mitsitam Café (4th St. and Independence Ave.) Mitisitam means "Let's Eat" in the language of the Deleware and Piscataway. Try to get a seat at the window where it looks as if the water outside disappears under your feet.

The specialities at the Firehook Bakery (3411 Connecticut Ave.) are sandwiches on fresh breads and cookies the size of a kindergartner's hands. Outdoor seating is in a beautiful garden with a fountain and an overhead trellis with hanging grape vines.

The formal Roof Terrace Restaurant (2700 F St., NW) of the Kennedy Center isn't appropriate for many kids, but for older children with tickets to a play, it could be a great way to start the evening.

It's no secret that the International Spy Museum's Spy City Cafe (800 F St. NW) serves killer sandwiches, wraps, salads, and a large selection of cookies from molasses ginger to white chocolate macadamia nut.

If you're visiting the Goddard Space Center, the New Deal Café (113 Center Way) in nearby Greenbelt offers a novel idea. While waiting for your soups, sandwiches, or vegetarian---even vegan---entrees, your kids can read books, play Scrabble, or work on puzzles.

For a taste of colonial life, try Colonial Turkey Pye or peanut and chesnut soup at the Mount Vernon Inn (Mount Vernon). The inn also offers modern meals, such as chicken fingers and hamburgers for kids.

For live tunes at lunchtime and lots of hot sandwiches, check out Potbelly (555 12th St.) The "wreck" is loaded with a variety of meat. The "Big Jack" named for the owner's son, is a classic PB&J.

The Corcoran Gallery's Cafe des Artistes looks too elegant for little children, but high chairs let you know that even the littlest child is welcome. The Corcoran's Jazz Gospel Brunch on Sunday is festive for families.

At Rocco's Italian Restaurant (1357 Chain Bridge Rd., Mclean), child-size pizzas are best-sellers, but those with more sophisticated palates can order manicotti, rigatoni, and ravioli.

At the Village Restaurant (4 E. Patrick St., Frederick, Maryland), you can sit at stools in front of a 65-year-old marble counter and order milkshakes and sodas fresh from the fountain.

Friendly, quick service and red chili pepper lights swooping across the ceiling make California Tortilla (4862 Cordell Ave., Chevy Chase) a favorite for families.

Best Day To Buy Cheap Tix

by Peter Greenberg

Believe it or not, there really IS a best day of the week to make your best deal on an airline ticket, and it's neither Monday nor Friday. It's Wednesday! And there's even a best time on Wednesday to buy that ticket.

Why Wednesday? Thank the small upstart airlines. In the airline business, fare wars are started by the weakest competitors, and the big guys tend to be the ones to raise fares. And all of that tends to happen on Fridays.

So how did Wednesday become the ideal day to strike a deal?

Let's say Airline A decides to raise fares. It usually does so at a late hour on a Friday night.

By Saturday, Airline A's major competitors will probably match that fare increase. Warning: Book your tickets over a weekend, and you might spend a whole lot more than you should.

But what if the major competitors DON'T match the higher fares? Then the instigator of the fare increase drops back down late on Sunday night or on Monday morning. If you already paid a higher fare, you still may be out of luck. Why? Because although you might still qualify for a lower fare and a ticket exchange, that terrible $75 change fee might wipe out your savings!

Here's another example. Let's say upstart Airline B decides to begin a fare war. Again, it happens late on a Friday night. Usually, some (but not all) of the majors will match that fare on routes where they compete with Airline B. Does that mean you should still book tickets over the weekend? Absolutely not. Remember, I said some, but NOT ALL of the majors will match that fare. By late Monday, depending on how that new fare is doing in the marketplace, Airline C might jump into the battle and offer an even LOWER fare, so look for all the other airlines to rush to match THAT one -- usually, by Tuesday -- and the war is on. Prices might go even lower on Wednesday. And that's when you strike. Wait any longer than Wednesday, and you may be in trouble. The wars usually end by Thursday morning.

Why? Friday is just around the corner! And the cycle starts all over again.

What's the best time to buy your ticket on Wednesday? One hour after Tuesday midnight (1:00 AM Wednesday morning). Why? At about midnight, the airlines usually reload their computers with the latest low-cost fares that were announced the previous day but will be canceled if they are not purchased within twenty-four hours.

Excerpted from The Travel Detective by Peter Greenberg Copyright 2001 by Peter Greenberg. Excerpted by permission of Villard, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

Wynn's Latest Gamble

It's official. Wynn Las Vegas opens its doors today, just months after owner Steve Wynn piqued interest in the new resort by appearing in a skillfully shot commercial that aired during the Super Bowl. The visionary behind Las Vegas's The Mirage, Treasure Island, and Bellagio, Wynn seemed larger than life in the ad that featured him standing on the roof of his new hotel.

Located near the Venetian and Harrah's, Wynn Las Vegas boasts amenities that will impress even the fussiest high roller---floor-to-ceiling windows, flat-screen TVs, and the finest European linens (rooms start around $250 per night). The views aren't bad either, taking in the Strip as well as the surrounding property's mini-metropolis, which includes a golf course designed by Tom Fazio and a faux ecosystem consisting of a lake and a mountain.

Wynn Las Vegas has two theaters, there's a casino, and you can splurge at the tres flashy shopping center, which has all the latest fashions from Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Cartier.

If all that shopping leaves you famished, there are 18 restaurants, including a brasserie run by master chef Daniel Boulud. Finally, head to the hotel's full-service spa and salon for a little R&R. One wonders if you are ever meant to leave the resort. The answer is no, but you can stop by the ground floor Maserati and Ferrari dealership if you really must be on your way.

Besting the mega-resort might seem like an insurmountable task, but not to Wynn, who is already working on his next Vegasproject, the 1.4 billion dollar Encore, slated to open in 2008. The 2000-room gargantuan property will be connected to the Wynn, and will feature even more deluxe digs than its sister resort. Wynn is not investing in the North end of the Strip alone ---the construction for Donald Trump's 64-story Trump International Hotel & Tower starts in May. Two towers, the first opening in 2007, will feature condominium residences priced from $600,000 to $6 million.

www.wynnlasvegas.com

Read all the buzz about Wynn and other Vegas Resorts in our talk forums:

Anyone booked at Wynn (Las Vegas) this weekend?
Wynn Las Vegas
Help Me Choose- Bellagio or Wynn?
Vegas Bound
1st Time to Vegas

MuseumWatch: LA, London, San Francisco

Getty Center, Los Angeles, Oil Sketches by Tiepolo, May 3 - September 4
Giovanni Battista Tiepolo was an artist of enormous industry, completing close to 800 paintings and thousands of drawings and sketches in a long and unusually successful career. His output underscores the most dramatic and fluid aspects of painting in the late Baroque. Indeed, critic Robert Hughes wrote that Tiepolo's colorist's imperative was "full of soaring and twisting space, transparency and delicious shot-silk color---a place dedicated to the imagination." In the middle part of the last century, however, Tiepolo fell out of favor as art historians raised their noses and delivered such withering assessments as "shallow" and "artificial." More recent scholarship, however, offers compelling evidence that the Venetian master was a forward-looking visionary who taught the generation after him how to paint. This exhibition showcases 10 oil sketches and an altarpiece fragment on loan from London's Courtauld Institute as well as Tiepolo sketches from the Getty collection. ---Chris Culwell

National Gallery of Art, London, Caravaggio: The Final Years, April 20 - May 22
Caravaggio was an early proponent of realism in painting, and there's little wonder why. Temperamental, brilliant, sensual, and highly successful, he had little reason to recede from reality. At least until he killed a man in a duel in 1606 and was forced to flee Rome under Papal decree. To avoid the long arm of the Vatican police, Caravaggio took up a peripatetic lifestyle, his journeys taking him first to Sicily and then to Malta. His art underwent a transformation in these years, as the mood of his pictures darkened. This exhibition brings together works from the late years, and from far-flung corners of the globe, for a closer look at the painter's final output. Paintings include The Flagellation, Head of St. John the Baptist, Crucifixion of St. Andrew, and the much-adored The Adoration of the Shepherds, among many others.---Chris Culwell

SFMOMA, San Francisco, Robert Bechtle: A Retrospective, March 20 - June 5
In recent years, movies and TV have finally discovered a depth of reality that the novel and other arts plumbed decades ago---the peculiar emptiness of American suburban life. Think American Beauty, Todd Solondz's Welcome to the Dollhouse or Happiness, TVs That 70s Show, and on and on. Well, long before Todd Solondz's perorations, painter Robert Bechtle was mining suburban anxiety for its otherworldly potential. His paintings of goofy gas-guzzling cars and cookie-cutter houses, so realistic and detailed they look like photographs, amuse and chill simultaneously. SFMOMA's retrospective traces the artist's career from his early photo-based pieces from the 1960s to his most recent works. ---Chris Culwell

Photo captions:
(top) St. Luigi Gonzaga in Glory; oil on canvas; Courtauld Institute of Art
(bottom): Alameda Gran Torino, 1974, oil on canvas; 48 x 69 in. Collection SFMOMA; T.B. Walker Foundation Fund purchase in honor of John Humphrey; Robert Bechtle

Hotel Fit For The King

Every other year someone in Memphis floats the idea of renaming the town Elvistown, or Elvisville, or some permutation on the name of that city's favorite native son. It's not a bad idea considering the vast number of Elvis attractions one encounters here, from his beloved Graceland to Poplar Tunes record store to the Arcade Restaurant, where a teenage Elvis sipped malts in a back booth and exuded effortless sensuality beyond his years.

Memphis's burgeoning Elvis attractions now includes #328 Lauderdale Court, the home Elvis lived in with his parents from 1949 to 1953. The 689-square-foot, two-bedroom apartment, part of a WPA apartment complex built in the 1930s, was scheduled for demolition a few year's back, but Memphis's Elvis contingent---a fearless and mighty constituency---managed to save the domicile from the wrecking ball.

But that's not all. Elvis's Lauderdale digs are now a hotel, where the ultimate sleep-where-the-king-slept experience can be yours for $249 per night. The apartment, restored to look like the 1950s, has period furniture and bathroom fixtures, a kitchen with working 1951 refrigerator, and reproductions of Presley family photos and memorabilia. Modern touches include a microwave, plasma TV, DVD/CD player, and free wireless internet.

At press time we were unable to confirm rumors that Mama Presley's original cookbooks, complete with recipes for fried banana-and-peanut butter sandwiches, still reside in the kitchen.

Photo: Elvis's Bedroom, Courtesy of Uptown Memphis/Morgan Mukarram

AirlineMeals.com: A Chronicle of Airborne Disgust

Microwaved apple crepes swimming in strawberry syrup and congealed butter. Steak tartare that tastes like a wood fence. Yikes! If putrid airline cuisine amuses you, or even if you take it seriously, you owe it to yourself to check out AirlineMeals.net, the globe's leading website devoted to the weird world of airline food. The main feature of the site are its photographs of airline haute-cuisine horrors taken by stomach-challenged travelers. At this writing, AirlineMeals.net has 11, 560 images of weird food, everything from a warmed over Vegetable Terrine Stuffed with Goose Liver to a Grilled Corvina with Stewed Prunes that looks like a car accident. We could go on at great length, but Sunday's New York Times write-up hit all the right notes.

And here's what our chatty "Fodorites" have to say about crusty comestibles:

Never know when you are going to sit on the ground or be delayed, and there have been times I'm sure I could have sold a smooshed PB&J for big bucks.

Even if I don't bring a full meal, I always carry meal bars or some sort of snack.

Photo credits: Photos courtesy of AirlineMeals.net

Grand Canyon of the East

If you've ever wanted to see the Grand Canyon but don't want to deal with crowds of backpack-wielding tourists, you do have an option.

The sheer cliff walls of the 17-mile gorge in New York's Letchworth State Park soar nearly 600 feet in some spots, creating what many geologists have called the Grand Canyon of the East. The long and narrow park encompasses awesome rock formations and a lush forest that includes many species of eastern North American trees. But the big kahuna here is the Genesee River, which spills over three waterfalls---one of them 107 feet high---creating a magical, idyllic atmosphere.

Things To Do at Letchworth:
Hikers can go wild with more than 70 miles of hiking trails. Take in the view from the overlook at the Mount Morris Dam, and make sure to cross the stone footbridge near Lower Falls for a bracing walk in the mist of a waterfall. There are trails for horseback riding and biking, and fascinating rock formations line every trail, allowing scientific types to commune with geological history. You can also swim or fish, go hot air ballooning, whitewater rafting, or canoeing (by permit).

Where to Stay:
The Victorian-era Glen Iris Inn overlooks the Genesee River. Interiors are suitably cozy, and though standard rooms are on the small side, suites are spacious. The Cherry Suite has a whirlpool tub, a private porch with great views of the gorge, and striking chevron-patterned hardwood floors. The restaurant serves up American and Continental dishes like baked salmon fillet in port sauce, roast duckling with cherry-brandy glaze, and slow-roasted prime rib with fresh horseradish.

Camping:
Letchworth offers tent and trailer sites, campsites, and winterized cabins. Campgrounds are open from mid-May to mid-October and cabins can be rented year round. To reserve a site or cabin, visit: www.nysparks.state.ny.us.

Getting There:
Letchworth State Park is 35 miles southwest of Rochester, off I-390 Exit 7. For more information, call 716-493-3600.

Fat Lady Not Yet Singing for The Plaza

Although New York City's illustrious Plaza Hotel will close April 30 to begin its $350 million conversion to luxury condos, all is not lost for world travelers of distinction.

New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg has brokered a deal with the hotel's owners, Elad Properties, to retain 350 rooms of the building for hotel use. In addition, the deal calls for the preservation and enhancement of the hotel's Grand Ballroom, Palm Court, and Oak Room.

As part of the deal, 350 hotel employees will be kept on to maintain public spaces, and the restored ballroom will continue to function as a public space for weddings, bar mitzvahs and other events. High tea, fine food, and famously powerful cocktails will still be served in The Palm Court, Oak Room, and Oak Bar.

Whether or not the 350 hotel rooms will retain those fabulous 14-foot ceilings and glittering chandeliers after the Big Renovation is complete is not known. Stay tuned. ---Chris Culwell

Earthy and Sensational in San Francisco

Chef Christopher Hille seamlessly blends traditional Neapolitan cuisine with the casual cool of San Francisco at A16, the city's hottest new restaurant. Prepare to be wowed by creative interpretations of traditional Campania cuisine---salads and side dishes that balance flavor, texture, and healthful ingredients, hand-rolled pastas, succulent fish and meat dishes, and pizza prepared by master pizzaiolo Hille. Starters like tripe Napoletana with onions, tomato, and white wine set the stage for big kahunas like a roasted hangar steak with rosemary oil, black pepper and mosto, or Alaskan halibut with fennel and almond puree. A16 gives new meaning to the word hot spot---the restaurant's main attraction is a massive, wood-burning brick oven in the center of the room. The low ceilings and simple beige decor put you at ease while the open kitchen crackles and sizzles with life. For dessert, try the mouthwatering semifreddo with chocolate, pine nuts, and Seville orange slices. The wine list is extensive, offering reasonably priced whites and reds from southern Italy, Australia, and California. Prices range from $6 appetizers to $22 entrees. A16 is packed every night, so reservations are essential.---Benny Bleiman

Star-Studded Eateries

Like most Hollywood marriages, celeb-owned restaurants come and go. The most successful spots enjoy immediate appeal due to their star connections, but it's the food that earns repeat customers. The country is dotted with several such eateries that buzz all on their own.

Teany
New York City
While known more for singing and mixing up a storm, electronic musician Moby has another project brewing. He co-owns this tea house located on the Lower East side, tucked in alongside an assortment of slick salons and eateries. The cafe's vegan and vegetarian sandwiches and salads should impress even diehard carnivores. Two tea robots serve as mascots for the cafe (photo, right), which offers 98 different types of brew. The Teany Tea Special ($15) consists of a pot of tea, two types of tea sandwiches, and a scone. Delectable desserts include vegan-friendly treats and a marshmallow smore cake.

Nobu
New York City Unless you're Robert De Niro (he's a partner and eats here regularly), you need to make reservations a month in advance at New York's most famous Japanese restaurant. Reservations are required at the trendy Tribeca franchise, headed by Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Billy Joel, Howard Stern, and Leonardo DiCaprio are all rumored to be regulars, but you might be too distracted by the food's exquisite presentation to care. It's easiest to put yourself in the hands of the chef by ordering the omakase omikase --- specify how much you want to spend (the minimum is $80 per person) and the kitchen does the rest. If you are unable to snag a reservation, try your luck at Next Door Nobu, where diners can enjoy a slightly less expensive menu on a first-come, first-served basis.

The Cutting Room
New York
An odd mix of gawking tourists, hip socialites, and the occasional celebrity mingle at The Cutting Room, an all-in-one bar, club, and burlesque in Chelsea co-owned by Chris Noth (Sex in the City). The intimate club features local and regional acts nightly, but it's infamous for its Saturday night cabaret, Le Scandal, a showcase of striptease dancers and vaudeville-style performances. It's not a bad place to grab a bite to eat between sets either—the bar serves "eclectic American cuisine." $20 cover, $10 minimum food and drink purchase.

The Conga Room
Los Angeles
The Conga Room, which is co-owned by local celebs, including Jimmy Smits and Jennifer Lopez, presents Latin music (primarily salsa) and the odd rock or soul show. The tropical interiors and hot music may not soften the blow to your wallet. The club's regular admission is $10-$20, but VIP treatment costs $30-$40. There are salsa lessons on Saturday from 8-9 PM for $10. Downstairs from the music hall is the club’s restaurant, La Boca, which serves up spicy Latin American dishes.

Rubicon
San Francisco
Rubicon (photo, right), located in the Financial District, draws a loyal clientele that appreciates a sophisticated after-work bar atmosphere, good food, and a big, smart wine list. Co-owned by Francis Ford Coppola, Robert De Niro, and Robin Williams, this sleek, cherrywood-lined restaurant is best known for its distinguished sommelier, Larry Stone, and the creativity of head chef Stuart Brioza. The downstairs dining room has the air of a men's club; the upstairs is plainer. The menu, which stresses local, seasonal ingredients and European techniques, suits Rubicon's understated glamour.

Mission Ranch Resort Restaurant
Carmel, California
In 1986, Carmel residents breathed a sigh of relief when Clint Eastwood purchased Mission Ranch, a local treasure slated for condo development. Luckily for longtime diners of the Ranch's restaurant, Eastwood only tinkered a little with the menu, infusing a bit of modern California to the otherwise down-home offerings. Locals and tourists alike gather to sample the spot's signature baby back ribs, famous for their sweet sauce and tender fall-off-the-bone meat. The restaurant's bar turns into a lively piano bar at night and the Sunday Jazz brunch has been a hit for years.

The Tree Room at Sundance Resort
Sundance, Utah
With its rustic decor, Native American art, and servers who look ready for Hollywood stardom, the setting at The Tree Room (photo, right) is so intimate it's easy to imagine you're a personal guest of Robert Redford. Diners enjoy seasonal mountain delicacies like Grilled Elk Short Loin and Smoked Niman Ranch Pork. Authors present their works as part of the Sundance Tree Room Author Series in spring and summer.

Man Ray
Paris, France
Man Ray is high profile, no surprise given that it's owned by Johnny Depp, Sean Penn, and Simply Red's Mick Hucknall. Man Ray becomes Woman Ray on Monday, an exclusive networking club for women. The ravishing Asian-art deco style is reminiscent of a slightly Disneyesque 1930s supper club in Chinatown. The bar is open until 2 AM and serves cocktails, tapas, and sushi.

Google-it for Bird's-Eye View

Have you ever traveled to a "vacation beach paradise" only to find upon arrival that "the beach" was five blocks away?

The wizards at Google feel your pain. The search-engine geniuses have developed a nifty satellite-mapping technology that allows users to call up aerial views of destinations, so you can see just how far your resort is from the water.

The mapping tool currently covers only certain portions of the United States, and the images are at least 6 to 12 months old, but it's already turning out be a useful device. It's also quite an amusing toy. Places you'd think are familiar look quite different---nay, downright strange---when seen from the earth's upper atmosphere.

Caveat emptor: web browsers Safari and Firefox provide better zooming than other web browsers.

Below are a few links to some of the country's most recognizable addresses.

The White House, Washington, D.C.
1600 Pennsylvania Ave., Washington, DC 20006

Central Park, Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10028-0198

Wynn Resort on the Las Vegas Strip
3131 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, NV 89109

The Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon, AZ 86023

Follow the Path of the Mighty Mississippi
Alton, IL 62002

Classical Highlights of Italy

Itinerary: Rome, Naples, Siracusa, Agrigento, Sicily
Timing: 8-12 days

Italy was once colonized by the ancient Greeks, a legacy that can be seen today in gloriously well-preserved classical structures in Rome, Naples, Sicily, and elsewhere in southern Italy. Travelers who have the time to journey all the way to Sicily will be well rewarded. Settled by the Greeks, Sicily was an important center of trade and culture in the Hellenic world, and the remarkable structures there speak to its rich endowment. There are myriad ways to tour Classical sites in Italy, but the itinerary below is the most straightforward route.

Rome
2 or 3 days. In Rome, spend at least a day exploring Ancient Rome. The imposing architectural mastery of the Colosseum and Pantheon should be your first priority, followed by the Capitoline Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Circus Maximus. On subsequent days, venture out to the Via Appia and the Catacombs, or study classical sculptures in the Vatican Museums and antiquities in the Museo Nazionale Romano in Palazzo Altemps. It is quite an experience to turn a corner and see a famous building, such as the Colosseum, with traffic whizzing blithely past its crumbling arches.

Naples and Campania
2 or 3 days. After arriving in Naples from Rome, spend the afternoon at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Piazza Museo 19 Spaccanapoli). The museum has a fascinating collection of objects---vividly colored mosaics and household utensils---from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Herculaneum and Pompeii can be visited in one day from Naples, but it's more relaxing to break the trip into two separate excursions. The relics being unearthed from the lava at Herculaneum are even better preserved than the once-buried ruins at Pompeii, which are spectacular in their own right. At Pompeii, you can wander through ancient dwellings of the poor and the noble, and ogle indelible images of erotic art and political slogans scrawled across the stone.

On the last day, take an excursion down the Amalfi Coast, or take the A3 to Paestum, with its still-intact Greek temples. A day tour to the area just west of Naples will bring you to the Roman amphitheater at Pozzuoli, spooky Lake Avernus, the Roman resort town at Baia, with its excavated baths, and the Sibyl's Cave at Cumae, perhaps the oldest Greek colony in Italy.

If you're continuing south to Sicily overland, stop in Reggio di Calabria to see the excellent Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia (Piazza de Nava, Corso Garibaldi, 0965/812255) and see the two well-toned 5th-century BC statues, the Bronzi di Riace, found in the sea off Calabria's coast. Coins and votive tablets are among the numerous other treasures in the museum. Next, cross over to Sicily on the ferry and head down the coast past Messina to Taormina.

Taormina
The natural beauty of the medieval mountaintop town of Taormina is so great that even its considerable overdevelopment has not spoiled its grandeur. Indeed, the view of the sea and Mt. Etna is as close to perfection as you can get, especially on clear days when the snowcapped volcano’s white puffs of smoke rise against the blue sky.

1 day. A visit to Taormina isn't complete without a visit to the town's Greek theater (Via Teatro Greco, 0942/232220). It was built during the third century BC and rebuilt by the Romans during the second century AD. Its acoustics are exceptional, and in fact a stage whisper can be heard in the last rows. In summer, Taormina hosts an arts festival of music and dance events and a film festival.

Taormina's many 14th- and 15th-century palaces have been carefully preserved. Especially beautiful is the Palazzo Corvaja (Largo Santa Caterina, 0942/23243), with characteristic black-lava and white-limestone inlays. Today it houses the tourist office and the Museo de Arte e Storia Popolare, which has a stellar collection of folk art.

Siracusa
2 days. Siracusa's Duomo (Piazza del Duomo, Ortygia) is one of the most unforgettable architectural images on the island, fusing Italy's Catholic present with its classical past. The Baroque cathedral is actually built directly upon the frame of a 6th-century Greek temple---the Temple to Athena---whose columns form its walls.

On a hillside just outside of the centro storico lies the Parco Archeologico (Viale Teocrito, 0931/66206), which boasts the most complete Greek amphitheater in the world, a venue that once staged Aeschylus’s premieres. Nearby is an equally impressive Roman arena, and the juxtaposition of these two structures is like an experiential lesson in Classics.

To fully grasp how antiquity commingles with this region, pay a visit to the splendid Museo Archeologico (Viale Teocrito, Archeological Zone, 0931/464022), which holds well-preserved examples of Neolithic pottery, Greek statues, vases, and much else of interest. Don't miss the marvelous fanged Gorgon, its tongue sticking out, that once adorned the cornice of the Temple of Athena to ward off evildoers.

If there's time, take an excursion to see the mosaics at the Imperial Roman Villa at Casale, just south of Piazza Armerina.

Agrigento
1 or 2 days. In Agrigento, you will be treated to what many experts consider the world's best-preserved remains of classical Greece---the Valley of the Temples, an extensive site that includes the Temple of Hercules, Temple of Concord, and the Temple of Jupiter (the latter was at one time considered the eighth wonder of the world). Whether you first come upon the Valley of the Temples in the early morning light, or at night when they are bathed by golden floodlights, it's easy to see why Agrigento was celebrated by Pindar as "the most beautiful city built by mortal men." All of the temples can be found in Zona Archeologico, Via dei Templi, 0922/497221.

Palermo, Sicily
1 day. A trip to the Museo Archeologico Regionale (Piazza Olivella 24 Via Roma, Olivella, 091/6116805) is well worth your time. Especially interesting pieces in this small but excellent collection are the examples of prehistoric cave drawings and a marvelously reconstructed Doric frieze from the Greek temple at Selinunte. The frieze reveals the high level of artistic culture attained by the Greek colonists in Sicily some 2,500 years ago. The city is also full of fascinating architectural masterpieces, including San Giovanni degli Eremiti, a 12th-century Norman church (Via dei Benedettini, Albergheria).

Getting Around
Train service between Rome and Naples is fast and frequent, taking less than two hours on express trains. The Circumvesuviana train line can take you conveniently from Naples to Pompeii (a 35-minute trip) and Herculaneum (about 20 minutes' travel time). If you’re continuing to Sicily, getting a one-way car rental is the best way to proceed: drive down the A3 through Salerno and most of Calabria before making the easy half-hour car-ferry crossing at Villa San Giovanni or Reggio di Calabria (choose the latter only if you want to stop at its museum first).

Alternatively, a ferry operates from Naples to Palermo, Sicily (it's a four- to nine-hour trip). If you're going that way, you would want to reverse the itinerary in Sicily, starting from Palermo and renting a car or continuing by train to Agrigento, Siracusa, and then Taormina, and finally flying out of Catania. Note, however, that a taxi or car transfer to Catania's airport from Taormina runs about 80--90 [eur].

Passport Fees Go Up

If you're applying for a passport or renewing your old one, beware. As of March 8 the Department of State instituted a $12 surcharge on new applications and renewals. The surcharge will finance the department's high-tech upgrade of passports to include computer chips containing a scannable copy of the data page, including the bearer's photograph. The new passports will go into use later this year or in early 2006, according to the Department of State. The increase will also offset the cost of quicker, more secure shipping (from first class to priority), which will aid the department in monitoring passport delivery. If you are applying for a passport or renewing your current one, be sure to use the most current forms, available on the department's website.

Getaways for Desperate Housewives

The travel industry is tapping into the success of ABC's Desperate Housewives, the guilty pleasure of 22 million weekly viewers. Several hotels have created "desperate" mini-escapes intended for stressed out gals and their pals. While the show's leading ladies won't be leaving Wisteria Lane anytime soon, the rest of us might find that spring is the perfect time for a girl getaway. Below is a run down of four "desperate" packages and our picks for the housewife they best suit.

Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside Resort
Whistler, British Columbia

The Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside Resort, an alpine lodge located in the center of Whistler Village, would be a good choice for Lynette, a maxed-out mom, to get away from it all. The resort's "Desperate Housewives Getaway" package includes a stay in a Deluxe Studio Valley View Suite, with a complimentary Mountain View upgrade when available.

Guests needn't lift a finger, except to receive their 45-minute traditional Milk Manicure at the resort's Vital Spirit Spa. A welcome basket, breakfast, movie passes for two, and a guaranteed 1 p.m. late checkout are the other perks of this package, which starts at $254 a night.

The Muse
New York City, New York

Former runway model Gabrielle would enjoy the steamy side of the Big Apple with The Muse's "Don't Be Desperate Package," which includes accommodation in a deluxe king or double room with the option to reserve an entire floor.

After a chauffeured trip to high-end lingerie stores Myla and La Perla, guests might get dolled up for a night that includes complimentary martinis at the hotel's District Mini-Bar and a trip to the All-American Male Strip Club. Starting at $345 per person, guests can recover from their naughty night by lounging in a keepsake bathrobe and enjoying their in-room breakfast.

The Commonwealth Hotel
Boston, Massachusetts

As a woman who values tradition, Bree would relish the fine details of the Commonwealth Hotel in Boston. Their "Almost Desperate" package includes a stay in a deluxe Commonwealth room that features a king-size bed and vaulted ceilings. On arrival, guests receive a bottle of champagne and various chocolates.

Guests are treated to a private one-hour in-room massage, a yours-to-keep therapeutic head wrap and sleep balm, and turndown service. The package, starting at $649, also includes round trip limo service to any destination in the Boston area.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North
Scottsdale, Arizona

Single-mom Susan could bake her dating woes away at the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North, located in the Sonoran desert. The hotel's "Divas Detox" package includes casita guestroom accommodations, breakfast daily, and a trio of spa treatments. The spa pampering includes a 50-minute Aromatherapy Massage, a 50-minute Green Tea Mud Masque, and an 80-minute Oxygenating Facial. Rates for the spoiling spa getaway start at $695.
(Katie Hamlin)

Here are some posts on the forums to inspire you to pull off a Thelma & Louise of your own:

Girl Weekend in Seattle
Girls Looking for Nightlife in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
5 Gals in Rome- Where to Stay?
Playa Del Carmen for a "girls" only vacation????
2 young ladies and 2 weeks in Costa Rica...What to do?

American Police Hall of Fame

"Life is a beautiful word except when used in a sentence" this Miami museum quotes one prison inmate as saying, and after viewing some of the crowd-pleasing exhibits here you'll see why: scary attractions include replicas of jail cells (both current and vintage), an electric chair, gas chamber, and "tramp chair," a 19th-century iron device used to hold prisoners.

The core of this hall, however, is its thorough exploration of law enforcement history, with a permanent exhibition of 11,000 items. The exhibit consists mostly of weapons (machine guns, hand guns, rifles, billy clubs), badges, hats and uniforms and archival photographs. The museum is also home to marble tablets bearing the names of American police officers killed in the line of duty since 1960.

6350 Horizon Dr., Titusville, FL, Phone: 321/264-0911. www.aphf.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Pro Football Hall of Fame

The gridiron's greatest players clashed in mud and snow (Astroturf, too). What did they do it for? The money, for sure, but also for the chance for a niche in Canton at the Pro Football Hall of Fame. Joe Montana, Jim Brown, O.J. Simpson, and Vince Lombardi are just a few of the stars and coaches honored at this famous facility.

The hall's highlights include the Enshrinees Mementos Room, the Super Bowl Room, and the hall's revolving stadium, whose regular big-screen showings of a "bone-crunching" NFL documentary are sure to satisfy fans of the contact sport. Another fan favorite: the interactive exhibits that give a partial sense of what a football player does and experiences. Also part of the complex is the Fawcett Stadium, home of the annual Hall of Fame Game.

2121 George Halas Dr. NW, Canton, OH, Phone: 330/456-8207. www.profootballhof.com

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum

This tribute to country-music's finest sits across from Nashville's Gaylord Entertainment Center. Loretta Lynn, Hank Williams, Patsy Cline, Johnny Cash, are among the glitzy complex's honorees.

The museum's one million artifacts range from Grand Ole Opry programs and the guitars of the country famous to Elvis Presley's sensational solid-gold 1960 Cadillac limo. A digital film presentation surveys country music around the world, and museum hosts live programming that includes concerts and interview sessions.

222 Fifth Ave. S. at Demonbreun St., Nashville, TN, Phone: 615/416-2001. www.countrymusichalloffame.org

Photo Credit: Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

National Baseball Hall of Fame

Probably the most famous hall of fame in the nation, this institution in the heart of downtown Cooperstown is a shrine to America's favorite pastime.

A relatively new and fun exhibit not only showcases artifacts donated by private collector Barry Halper, but also replicates the New Jersey den where he previously exhibited 50-years worth of memorabilia.

The Halper exhibit complements the hall's collection of more than 30,000 mementos, which include baseballs, bats, uniforms, ballpark artifacts, and numerous other collectables.

Plaques bearing the pictures and biographies of major-league baseball luminaries (Babe Ruth, Jackie Robinson, Reggie Jackson) line the walls, and the rest of the complex features multimedia displays, exhibits for kids, and enough memorabilia to satisfy the most die-hard fans.

You can expect a big crowd for the museum's once-a-year induction ceremony, and you'll need advance reservations for the annual Hall of Fame baseball game.

25 Main St., Cooperstown, NY, Phone: 607/547-7200. www.baseballhalloffame.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Astronaut Hall of Fame

To be eligible for entry into the U.S. Astronaut Hall of Fame, you have to accomplish one small thing -- you must fly into space. The 44 inductees include such famous fliers as John Glenn and Neil Armstrong along with lesser-knowns like John Young, the first man to fly both Apollo and space-shuttle missions.

The interactive exhibits here include a gasp-inducing attraction that imitates gravity's pressure and a multimedia "flight," complete with simulated lift-off, inside a full-size replica of the space shuttle. Also on display are the personal memorabilia of the astronaut honorees. As the closest public-viewing facility to the space shuttle's launching complex, the hall is the best place to come and see an actual lift-off.

6225 Vectorspace Blvd., Titusville, FL, Phone: 321/449-4444. www.kennedyspacecenter.com

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Gospel Music Hall of Fame

Musical hall of faming doesn't stop at rock 'n' roll. At least not for the founders of Detroit's International Gospel Music Hall of Fame and Museum. This Motown institution offers you the opportunity to learn about the history of this vibrant genre and its leading lights.

The honorees include Thomas A. Dorsey, "The Father of Gospel"; Hurd Fairfax, the first recorded black female gospel singer; the great Mahalia Jackson; and Whitney Houston's mom, Cissy Houston. The hall traces gospel's influence on contemporary artists, including Toni Braxton and Whitney Houston, both of whom have integrated their childhood experiences of gospel into their commercial work.

18301 W. McNichols, Detroit, MI, Phone: 313/592-0017. By appointment only. www.igmhf.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

ProRodeo Hall of Fame and Museum of American Cowboy

Become a cowboy for a day at the world's only museum and hall of fame dedicated to the wild world of professional rodeo.

The hall guarantees visitors a one-day education in all things rodeo. Multimedia presentations, replicas of rodeo arenas, and live rodeo animals are just the beginning. The heart of the museum, the Hall of Champions, contains photographs, personal memorabilia, trophies, and the original saddles, ropes, clothing, and hats worn by rodeo contestants.

101 ProRodeo Dr., Colorado Springs, CO, Phone: 719/528-4764. www.prorodeo.org/hof

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum

Easy Rider fans and families in minivans all appreciate this salute to the world of motorcycling. Trophies, memorabilia, and touring and competition bikes are on display. Stuntman Evel Knievel, magazine publisher Malcolm Forbes, and comedian Jay Leno, a motorcycling fanatic, are among those honored with plaques on the Wall of Fame.

The themes of the temporary exhibitions at the engaging museum have included classic motorcycles, motorcycle toys, women and motorcycling, and the evolving sales strategies of motorcycle manufacturers through the years.

13515 Yarmouth Dr., Pickerington, OH, Phone: 614/856-2222. www.motorcyclemuseum.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

The National Inventors Hall of Fame

This celebration of American innovation recognizes the creators of can't-live-without-them products like the electric lamp (invented by Thomas Edison), oral contraceptives (Carl Djerassi), television (Philo T. Farnsworth), and the Apple computer (Steve Wozniak).

The inductees include several inventors who adapted food sources. Horticulturist Luther Burbank is honored for a hybrid peach, and George Washington Carver gets a nod for his pioneering peanut products. Percy L. Spencer, the man who revolutionized food preparation, is honored for his time-saving device, the microwave oven. Gertrude Belle Elion, who developed a drug to fight leukemia, is among those acknowledged for life-saving medicines.

The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office cofounded the hall, which explains why a nominee has to hold a U.S. patent to be eligible. Additionally, his or her invention must have done something to further society. So how did Farnsworth make it in?

221 S. Broadway St., Akron, OH, Phone: 330/762-4463. www.invent.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

The International Bowling Hall of Fame

Bowling originated in ancient Egypt, and its rich history and dedicated following -- more than two million people bowl regularly in the United States alone -- fill many rooms at this fascinating facility in St. Louis.

The hall's mission is to "preserve bowling's history and record its present," so the experience here is about more than learning: You can also bowl a game on a state-of-the-art lane. If you're in a retro mood, head to one of the old-style lanes serviced by actual pinboys (who manually reset the pins).

111 Stadium Plaza, St. Louis, MO, Phone: 314/231-6340 or 800/966-2695. www.bowlingmuseum.com

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Exotic World Burlesque Museum and Hall of Fame

"Striptease is the original American art," says Dixie Evans, curator and director of the Burlesque Hall of Fame. That's debatable, perhaps, but there's no denying that her museum contains some rather provocative artifacts. Sexy photos, G-strings, costumes, fans, boas, and other show-stopping accoutrements of the "women of classic burlesque theater" make for an eye-popping tour.

Evans's mission goes beyond mere titillation. Her museum, a few miles off Interstate 15 south of Barstow, attempts nothing short of a history of burlesque, from the 19th century to the bawdy form's golden age in the mid-20th century. To qualify for the Burlesque Museum and Hall of Fame a woman must have performed in burlesque for at least 10 years.

29053 Wild Rd., Helendale, CA, Phone: 760/243-5261. www.exoticworldusa.org

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Continental Canine: Ella Enchants Europe

Michael and Ella's Top Ten Trip Highlights Riding a gondola in Venice Dining at Le Grand Vefour in Paris Visiting Mozart's grave in Vienna Parading on the red carpet at Cannes, France Watching the World Cup of Soccer in Antwerp, Belgium Visiting what remains of the Berlin Wall Slinking into Dante's church in Florence Bathing in the Trevi Fountain in Rome Crossing the Charles Bridge in Prague Shopping for scarves at Hermes in Paris Click here for more information on traveling with pets.

Have you ever wanted to travel with a favorite pet? Michael Konik took his beloved lab-greyhound to Europe and wrote a book about it. Ella in Europe (Delacorte Press, 2005, $20) captures the highs and lows of travel with a four-legged friend. The two gleefully make their way across the continent, dining in four-star Paris restaurants and taking gondola rides in Venice, among other adventures. Ella in Europeis a good read for any traveler who fantasizes about pulling off a European Travels with Charley. Judging from Konik's experience, the welcome mat is out.

Which country seemed most ready to make Ella a citizen?

While Ella was welcomed warmly everywhere we went, France was the most dog-friendly of the European countries. The French weave dogs into the fabric of everyday life, as though they were part of the family, not merely pets.

What advice can you give to other pet owners interested in jet-setting around the globe with their pet?

Have your pet's health checked prior to travel, and carry papers from your veterinarian that vouch for your animal's health. Bring familiar toys and sleeping mats -- there will be enough newness and strangeness on the road. Look to the right when crossing streets in Great Britain!

Did you find that a place that fawned over Ella was also warm to tourists?

A society that accepts and enjoys dogs is a society that accepts and enjoys foreign visitors. In the Netherlands, for example, the locals heartily embraced Ella everywhere she went, even the red-light district. This kind of tolerance can be found in every aspect of Dutch life.

Did Ella ever do anything that was wince-worthy, like pee on a famous statue?

Ella is irrationally fearful of thunderstorms. (Perhaps she thinks she's hearing the footsteps of a giant monster coming to eat her and her pack.) While dining in a lovely Venetian restaurant, it began to rain hard. To my horror, Ella left her place beneath our table and wandered directly into the kitchen. As she skittered around pots of Bolognese sauce and breaded veal, I envisioned a horrible scene involving police and health inspectors.

Instead, the owner called his entire staff into the cucina for group kisses.

Where will your next adventure with Ella take you?

Ella in Europe is being adapted into a weekly television show for Animal Planet. One of the top destinations on our schedule is the Old Course, in St. Andrews, Scotland, where we look forward to playing golf. Together.

Click here for more information on traveling with pets.
Ask Konik a question on his talk forum thread.
Purchase a copy of Ella in Europe.

NYC View from "Top of the Rock"

"The greatest urban complex of the 20th century" is how the AIA Guide to New York City refers to Rockefeller Center. A tad hyperbolic, yes, but there's no contesting the fantastic views from the 70th floor observation deck. These views captivated tourists and locals alike from 1933, when Rockefeller Center opened, until the mid-1980s, when the observation deck closed. Happily, Rockefeller Center has announced plans for the reopening of the observation deck in the fall of 2005. Completely renovated and expanded, the new deck, christened Top of the Rock, promises a few new bells and whistles. The cruise-ship motifs of yesteryear (see photo) are gone, replaced by multi-media exhibits and wraparound transparent glass. Also new is a reserved-time ticket option, which will minimize long lines and crowds. The price of admission is also new---a skyrocketing $14, which makes it more expensive than the Empire State Building down the street (which stands a couple hundred feet taller). But when you're standing 850 feet above the sidewalk enjoying unobstructed views of Manhattan and 80-mile visibility, does price really matter?---Chris Culwell

Photo credit: Tishman Speyer Properties

New Looks for Prado, Reina Sofia

The Prado and the Reina Sofia museums have always been good reasons to visit Madrid. In recent years, however, the increase in traffic at the museums has become a source of irritation for tourists and locals alike.

Heeding the call for change, the Spanish government has undertaken an ambitious modernization and expansion that will increase space in both museums by 50 percent and create a new look for each institution. The renovation and expansion, estimated to be in the hundreds of millions of euros, draws on the talents of celebrated architects Rafael Moneo and Jean Nouvel. Moneo's plans for the Prado will add 25 additional galleries to the 200-plus-year-old building and expand the restored cloister of the adjacent 15th-century Los Jeronimos Church.

The Reina Sofia, a few hundred feet down Paseo del Prado, gets a new auditorium and library in Jean Nouvel's design, which outfits the existing 18th-century building with a sleek flat roof and a colorful concrete-and-glass shell. Plans are also underway for a pedestrian pathway to link both museums with the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which rests northwest of both museums on Paseo del Prado. ---Michael Kessler

Solo Traveler: Tales and Tips for Great Trips

Lea's Top Ten Picks for Soloists 1. Amalfi Coast , Top budget pick. 2. Canada, Top budget/solo-friendly pick. 3. Thailand, Top budget pick. 4. Grand Canyon, Top solo experience pick. 5. Canyon Ranch, Top spa pick. 6. Cliffside Inn, Top lodging pick. 7. New York, Favorite solo city/domestic. 8. London, Favorite solo city/ foreign. 9. Peter Deilmann Cruises, Top river cruise line. 10. Windstar, Top small cruise line.

A recent Fodor's survey reveals that a clear majority of Americans recognize the benefits of traveling alone. No news there. The kicker is that many of these same folks never travel because they're either too afraid of the unknown or they'd rather avoid the stigmas that often get attached to those who travel alone.

In her new book, Solo Traveler: Tales and Tips for Great Trips, journalist and intrepid solo sojourner Lea Lane examines the bugaboos that keep solitary souls from packing suitcases and offers advice on how to overcome them. What to do about eating alone, becoming sick on the road, how to trust your own judgment, and getting lost while alone are just a few of the issues explored in the book, which also contains colorful anecdotes, advice, and tips on getting out there and seeing the world by yourself.
Lane also debunks the labels---loner and anti-social are among the many--- that are slapped on solo trekkers, showing that they're merely labels and should be ignored. "The best way to overcome the stigmas is to get out there and have fun traveling solo," says Lane. "Whether you're a woman or a man, forget about conventional wisdom, there is no better way to truly experience a destination than exploring it on your own."

We sat down with Lea Lane recently for an interview.

Why travel solo?
Soloing isn't just a different way to travel---it's the ultimate way. Undiluted. Totally in the moment. Undistracted. Just what you want, how you want it, and when you want it so you can experience all you can. You will have more freedom and meet more people. Just ask those who do it.

What's the most important advice?
Don't fall for the negatives you'll hear from those who can't imagine soloing. As a solo traveler you are special and will be able to deal with almost anything with thorough planning, good judgment, an open mind, and a smile. The world is filled with great people and things, and by soloing wisely you'll get to experience them to the fullest. Just trust your instincts and use your head.

How do I avoid loneliness?
It's a cliche by now, but "alone" and "lonely" are different words. Separate them. You can be far lonelier with an incompatible travel partner. Just do what you enjoy, go where you want to go, and try to seek out like-minded, interesting people as you travel. A smile and a question work wonders. Seek out places with lots to do and lots of other soloists, like cities, or spas or cruises. Or join groups for all or part of your trip.

What tips do you have for eating alone?
Eat in informal places, like cafes or pubs. Have your main meal at lunch. Stay at lodgings with dining on premises. If you go to a fancy place, reserve ahead if possible, arrive early, and don't settle for a bad table. Bring something to read, do some writing, and enjoy being in the spotlight. This is your chance to be a diva---so dress up and act as special as you are. You'll have others envying your free spirit.

How can a soloist save money?
A big problem for solo travelers is the single supplement, a surcharge often tacked on to a room when you travel alone. To avoid this, look for special deals, off-season times, and groups that offer discounts or roommates. You can compensate by trying for upgrades, bargaining in the marketplace, and focusing on what's important: Should you spend on food or film? Room or shopping? When you're on your own you can budget the way you want, without an argument.

What is the key safety issue for women traveling solo?
The same as anywhere---people who have bad motives, and who will try and take advantage of you in some way. Try to blend in as much as possible, and remain cautious and skeptical. Don't let a cute accent and smooth line fool you. Keep a low profile, don't be flashy, and stay in public places. Safety trumps truth---have a line ready that will discourage jerks.

What is the most unexpected experience you've had on a solo trip?
One of the joys of soloing is that options are endless, and you'll have many wonderful, surprising experiences. I was gazing at a painting in a museum in Erfurt Germany. A director of a European travel show saw me and was so impressed that I was on my own he decided to shoot a segment around me, on the spot. So for the rest of the day I was a star, and was treated to dinner as guest of honor at a medieval banquet. You never know!

Read an excerpt from Lea Lane's Solo Traveler. Need some advice? Go to our Solo Traveler forum and ask her.

Quick Hits Tour of Northern France

Itinerary: Versailles, Honfleur, Bayeaux, Mont-St-Michel, St-Malo, Chartres

The wonders of France never cease, and this brisk itinerary takes you to some of the country's most sensational destinations. It's a bit of a whirlwind, but when spirits flag do what the locals do---nibble a crepe and sip a Calvados.

Versailles

1 day. Versailles was dreamed up as a gigantic palace flanked by avenues broader than the Champs-Elysees, all in bicep-flexing baroque, on a scale designed by the 23-year-old Louis to dwarf the provocatively lavish chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte that had recently been erected by his own finance minister.

As time wore on and styles changed, Louis XIV's successors felt out of sync with this architectural inheritance. Louis XV exchanged the heavy red-and-gilt of Italianate Baroque for the lighter, pastel-hue Rococo mode. In doing so, he transformed the daunting royal apartments into places to live rather than pose.

The hapless Louis XVI cowered in the Petit Trianon, in the leafy depths of Versailles' gardens, out of the shadow of the mighty chateau. His queen, Marie-Antoinette, seems to have lost her senses well before she lost her head in 1793, by playing at being a peasant shepherdess amid the ersatz rusticity and perfumed flocks of sheep of the Hameau, a faux farm and village she created just beyond the precincts of the Petit Trianon.

Honfleur

1 day. From this picture-book seaport lined with skinny half-timber rowhouses and salt-dampened cobblestones, the first French explorers set sail for Canada in the 15th century. The harbor is fronted on one side by two-story stone houses with low, sloping roofs and on the other by tall, narrow houses whose wooden facades are topped by slate roofs.

Soak up the seafaring atmosphere by strolling around the old harbor and paying a visit to the ravishing wooden church of Ste-Catherine (Rue des Logettes, 02-31-89-11-83), which dominates a tumbling square. The church, and ramshackle belfry across the way, were built by townspeople to show their gratitude for the departure of the English at the end of the Hundred Years' War, in 1453.

Bayeux

2 days. Bayeux, the first town to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy, was already steeped in history---as home to a Norman Gothic cathedral and the world's most celebrated piece of needlework: the Bayeux Tapestry at the Tapestry Museum (13 bis rue de Nesmond, 02-31-51-25-50).

Bayeux's medieval backcloth makes it a popular base, especially among British travelers, for day trips to other towns in Normandy. The old-world mood is at its most boisterous during the Fetes Medievales, a market-cum-carnival held in the streets around the cathedral on the first weekend of July. Experience the 1944 Allied landings with a visit to the Museum of the Battle of Normandy (Blvd. du General-Fabian-Ware, 02-31-51-46-90), then make a pilgrimage to Omaha Beach.

Mont-St-Michel

1 day. Rising majestically in a shroud of sea mist over tidal flats, this mystical peninsula is Gothic in every sense of the word. Though its tiny, steep streets are crammed with visitors and tourist traps, no other sight gives you a stronger sense of the worldly power of medieval monasticism than Mont-St-Michel.

The original church was completed in 1144, but further buildings were added in the 13th century to accommodate monks as well as the hordes of pilgrims who flocked here even during the Hundred Years' War. The abbey's construction took more than 500 years, from 1017 to 1521.

The abbey's monastic independence was undermined during the 17th century, when the monks began to flout the strict rules and discipline of their order, drifting into a state of decadence that culminated in their dispersal and the abbey's conversion into a prison, well before the French Revolution. In 1874 the former abbey was handed over to a governmental agency responsible for the preservation of historic monuments. Monks now live and work here again, as in medieval times: you can join them for daily mass at 12:15. 02-33-89-80-00, www.monum.fr.

St-Malo

1 day. Even in winter you'll want to brave the Channel winds to beachcomb the shores of this onetime pirate base. In summer, of course, it's mobbed with sunseekers who stroll the old streets, restored to quaintness after World War II.

The "Bastille of Brittany," the Fort National (02-99-85-34-33), is offshore and accessible by causeway at low tide only. It's a massive fortress with a dungeon constructed in 1689 by that military-engineering genius Sebastien de Vauban.

Chartres

1 day. Making a beeline on the autoroute back to Paris, stop in Chartres to view what is perhaps France's greatest cathedral. Notre-Dame de Chartres is an extraordinary fusion of Romanesque and Gothic elements brought together at a moment when the flame of medieval faith burned brightest. The stone and glass of this cathedral are somehow suffused with that same burning mysticism.

Worship on the site of Chartres goes back to before the Gallo-Roman period---the crypt contains a well used in Druid ceremonies. The building that stands today dates mainly from the 12th and 13th centuries and was erected after the previous building, dating from the 11th century, burned down in 1194.

The interior is somber, and your eyes will need time to adjust. The reward is seeing the gemlike richness of the stained glass. The cathedral's windows are being gradually cleaned---a lengthy, painstaking process---and the contrast with those still covered in the grime of centuries is staggering. It's worth taking a pair of binoculars along with you to pick out the details.

Getting Around

Coordinating a sightseeing tour like this with a limited local train schedule isn't easy, and connections to Mont-St-Michel are especially complicated. Versailles, Chartres, and St-Malo are easy to reach, and Bayeux and Honfleur are doable, if inconvenient. But you'll spend a lot of vacation time waiting along train tracks. Best bet is to rent a car and drive, following, of course, the most direct routes on the map.

Go Around the World at the 2005 Expo

Want to tour the world but don't have time? Consider skipping EPCOT this year and going just a bit farther to the 2005 World Expo in Japan, running March 25-September 25. The Expo has exhibits and entertainment that showcase, among other things, the scientific, technological, social, and cultural advances of the 125 host countries. The theme of the Expo is "Nature's Wisdom," and each participating sponsor and country examines the ways in which we can protect our environment. In the Nordic pavilion, installations show how wind turbines produce energy, and the Saudi Arabia pavilion looks at water desalinization efforts, Saudi Arabian architecture, and the petrochemical industry. In a pavilion hosted by the Toyota Group, you enter a theater with a 360-degree screen to watch a show that features robots and the i-unit, a battery-operated vehicle made almost entirely of plant-based materials. ---Emmanuelle Alspaugh

Image (right): In this rendering, an animatronic Ben Franklin offers up commentary on the state of the nation at his 300th birthday, celebrated at the Expo's U.S. Pavilion.

Check out these deals to Japan:
$859 for a six-day Tokyo Super-Saver including air and hotel
An eight-day EXPO package starts at $1,613, air inclusive from New York

Sample fares to Japan aboard Air Canada, All Nippon Airlines, American Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and United Airlines:

From New York to Nagoya
Apr./May $572
June/July $1150
Aug./Sept. $1274

From Chicago to Nagoya
Apr./May $535
June/July $1125
Aug./Sept. $1304

From Los Angeles to Nagoya
Apr./May $649
June/July $831
Aug./Sept. $1091

Eating Your Way through Emilia-Romagna

by Robin Goldstein

Itinerary: Emilia, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna

Gourmets the world over claim that Emilia-Romagna's greatest contribution to civilization has been gastronomical. It's hard to disagree after your first bite into the silkiest prosciutto in the world or the most subtly delectable homemade tortellini you've ever tasted.
Emilia (the western half of the region) is better known for its food than Romagna, its Adriatic neighbor. As such, this food tour, which lasts 7-11 days, focuses on Emilia, taking you along the Autostrada del Sole highway (A1). Or, if you prefer, you can take the ancient Roman road, the Via Emilia, a more scenic road that runs parallel to the Autostrada, past flat, foggy plains, giant food factories, and crumbling farmhouses. The tour's capital, so to speak, is its last stop, Bologna, one of the true food capitals of the world.

Parma
You'll spend your first two nights in dignified and delightful Parma, which stands on the banks of a tributary of the Po River. The city's spectacular Piazza del Duomo, the site of the cathedral, baptistery, church of San Giovanni, and the palaces of the bishop, is one of the most harmonious, tranquil city centers in Italy.

From Piacenza to the Adriatic, ham is the king of meats in Emilia-Romagna, but nowhere is this truer than in Parma, the world's capital of prosciutto crudo, raw cured ham (crudo for short). Ask for crudo di Parma to signal its local provenance; many other regions also make their own crudo. It’s easy to get confused with the terminology. Crudo is the product that Americans simply call "prosciutto" or the Brits might call "Parma ham." Prosciutto in Italian, however, is a more general term that means any kind of ham, including prosciutto cotto, or simply cotto, which means "cooked ham."

Beginning with the ham, you'll quickly realize that the secret to this region is not the discovery of new and exotic foods, but rather a rediscovery of foods you thought you already knew—in better versions than you’ve ever tried before. For the best crudo di Parma, look for slices, always cut to order, that are razor thin and have a light, rosy red color (not dark red). Don't be shy about going into a simple salumeria (salumi is a general word used to refer to cold cuts) and ordering crudo by the pound. It's as delicious simply eaten out of the package on a park bench as it is served an appetizer at a restaurant. Parma ham's even more prized and pricey cousin, the sweet and flavorful culatello di Zibello, produced along the banks of the Po River, is cured and aged for more than 11 months.

While in Parma, don't miss a trip to Enoteca Antica Osteria Fontana (Strada Farini 24/a, 0521/286037), a simple, traditional neighborhood haunt that's absolutely packed all day long until it closes at 9 p.m., sometimes earlier. Here, the salumi are made into delicious grilled panini, cut into pieces and meant to be shared, and served with an exhaustive list of Emilia-Romagna's wines at astonishingly good prices.

Reggio Emilia
From Parma, it's only a half-hour trip east to Reggio Emilia, the birthplace of the crumbly and renowned Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, where you'll stay one night. Reggio (not to be confused with Reggio di Calabria at the toe of the boot) is a cute and characteristic little Emilian town with a 70-year history as the center of production for this legendary product. "Parmigiano" means "from Parma" and "Reggiano" means "from Reggio"; the consortium of producers, like the producers themselves, are scattered throughout Emilia, especially Parma, but Reggio Emilia has always been the capital of cheese.

Grana is the generic Italian term for hard, aged, fully flavored cheese that can be grated (certain varieties of Pecorino Romano, for example, or Grana Padano, also fall into that term), but Parmigiano-Reggiano is the foremost example. Here, the cheese is not only grated onto pasta, as we do in the rest of the world, but also often served by itself in chunks, either as an appetizer—perhaps accompanied by local salumi—or even for dessert, when it might be drizzled with honey or Modena's balsamic vinegar.

A free two-hour guided tour of a Parmigiano-Reggiano producer can be a memorable experience, taking you through the process and meeting the cheesemakers themselves; the tour can be arranged by contacting the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano in Reggio Emilia (0522/506160, sezionere@parmigiano-reggiano.it, www.parmigiano-reggiano.it) at least 20 days in advance of your visit (ask specially for an English-language tour if necessary).

Modena
The next must-see stop on the Emilian food itinerary is Modena, a charming and prosperous town that is full of bicycles and university students. Modena is home to Ferrari, Pavarotti, a host of delicious local eateries, and a species of balsamic vinegar that is unparalleled anywhere else on Earth.
The balsamic vinegar you've probably tried—even the pricier versions sold at specialty stores—may be good on salads, but it bears only a fleeting resemblance to the real thing, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.

The tradizionale vinegar that passes the strict governmental standards (a winelike D.O.C.—Denominazione di Origine Controllata—regulation) is officially a condiment rather than a vinegar, and it is made with Trebbiano grape must, which is cooked over an open fire, reduced and fermented for decades in a series of specially made wooden casks. As the vinegar becomes more concentrated, so much liquid evaporates through the years that it takes more than six gallons of must to produce one quart of vinegar 12 years later. The result is an intense and syrupy concoction best enjoyed sparingly on grilled meats, strawberries, or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. The vinegar has such a complexity of flavor that some even drink the stuff as an after-dinner liqueur.

Written documentation of serious vinegar production in Modena goes back as far as 1508, when Alfonso I d'Este, then the duke of Modena, had a facility, although the term "balsamic" did not appear until the 18th century. Today, the Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (Corso Cavour 60, 059/236981, www.balsamico.it), which offers tours and tastings, monitors the quality of the authentic balsamic vinegar, made only by a few licensed restaurants and small producers. The consortium also limits production, keeping prices sky high. Expect to pay [eur]50 for a 100-ml bottle of tradizionale, which is generally aged 12 to 15 years, or [eur]80 and up for the older tradizionale extra vecchio variety, which is aged 25 years.

In Modena, it's hard to find a bad meal. Local trattorie do great versions of tortellini and other stuffed pasta. If you can find zampone (a sausage made from stuffed pig's trotter) at a restaurant in town, don't miss it—it's an adventurous Modena speciality. Hosteria Giusti (Vicolo Squallore 46, 059/222533, www.giusti1605.com) is a particularly good place to try local specialties and traditional home cooking; the adjacent Salumeria Giusti is reputedly the world’s oldest deli, founded in 1605.

Bologna
And then comes the venerable city of Bologna, where you will spend your last three or four nights. Over the centuries the city has acquired a number of nicknames: Bologna the Learned, in honor of its venerable university, the oldest in the world; Bologna the Red, for its rosy rooftops and communist leanings; Bologna the Turreted, recalling the forest of medieval towers that once rose from the city center (two remarkable examples survive); and Bologna the Fat, a tribute to its preeminent position in the world of cuisine, the birthplace of mortadella, tortellini, and ragu.

Today one might also be tempted to dub it Bologna the Hip, for its trendy New York-style bars and lounges with postmodern music and Germanic track lighting, American brunches and California construction cuisine, and pricey boutiques in primary colors. But much of the food remains as it ever was. Bologna's heavenly ragu, best enjoyed with tagliatelle, is made from minced pork and beef slowly simmered in milk, onions, carrots, and tomatoes—it in no way resembles the "Bolognese" sauce served worldwide.

You'll find the many Emilian variations on stuffed pasta all over the region, but they're perhaps at their best in Bologna, especially the native tortellini. Tortelli and cappellacci are larger pasta pillows, about the size of a Brussels sprout, but with the same basic form as tortellini; they're often stuffed with pumpkinlike squash or spinach and cheese. Stuffed pastas are generally served simply, with melted butter, sage, and (what else) Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, or in brodo (in beef or chicken broth), which brings out the subtle richness of the fillings. The rich, soft, garlicky mortadella, meanwhile, has been reincarnated elsewhere to its detriment as "baloney."

Don't miss Tamburini (Via Drapperie 1, 051/234726), Bologna's best specialty food shop, where smells of all that is good about Emilia-Romagna waft out through the room and into the streets. There's an extensive and excellent lunchtime buffet. If you want to try something on the extremely elegant end of things, though, it's easily worth the half-hour drive (31 km) out of Bologna to the luxe town of Imola, home to a famous Grand Prix race and to Ristorante San Domenico (Via G. Sacchi 1, 0542/29000, www.sandomenico.it), where superstar chef Valentino Marcattilli turns out memorable dishes like risotto with scampi, black truffle, and artichoke, that scale the lofty heights of Northern Italian cuisine without getting too carried away by culinary fads.

If things work our right, you can try to time your stay in Bologna for the city's four-day food festival, Bologna e le Citta del Cibo (www.bolognaelecittadelcibo.it, 051/6486156), around May 20. You can attend organized events and dinners, or just stroll through piazze all over the city that are filled with food stands featuring tastings of enogastronomical specialties from all over Emilia-Romagna, and bars all over the city feature traditional local appetizers.

Emilia-Romagna's wines accompany the region’s fine food rather than vying with it for accolades. The best known is Lambrusco, a sparkling red produced on the Po plain that has some admirers and many detractors. It's praised for its tartness and condemned for the same quality. The region's best wines include Sangiovese di Romagna, which can be similar to Chianti, from the Romagnolan hills, and Barbera, from the Colli Piacetini and Apennine foothills. Castelluccio, Bonzara, Zerbina, Leone Conti, and Tre Monti are among the region's top producers---keep your eyes out for their bottles.

Finally, while Emilia's restaurants are excellent, Bologna-based HomeFood (051/220797, www.homefood.it) is breaking new culinary ground for tourists by organizing traditional meals (usually long lunches) at the homes of local families. HomeFood represents a rare opportunity, for about [eur]30 a head, to experience the truest, simplest home cooking of Emilia. Cooking guru Marcella Hazan has written that "there are no high roads or low roads to Italian cooking. There is only one road, and it leads to the home." For many food lovers, from gourmands to chowhounds, that's what it's all about.

Logistically, there are several ways to work this tour. The four cities on the itinerary are close and well connected by rail, so the trip is equally well suited to car travel or train travel. The easiest way to do things, especially without a car, is to fly into Parma (a small airport which is connected to Rome, Brussels, and a few other Italian and European cities), and out of Bologna. Alternatively, you might save money by flying round-trip to Bologna, and take the train or car to Parma (less than two hours) to begin the trip there; or even to fly in and out of Milan’s Malpensa, which is directly and inexpensively connected to most major US cities. The drive to Parma from that airport is about two and a half or three hours; allow at least four hours returning to Malpensa from Bologna.

Hotel Vitale and Spa, San Francisco

Low key and unpretentious, the 199-room Hotel Vitale and Spa, which opened here last week, delivers luxury and comfort on the Embarcadero. Rooms have deep-soaking tubs, European down bedding, and plasma televisions. Microfiber bathrobes are provided for guests, one of the many understated pampering touches you'll experience here. Splurge on one of the Waterfront Suites ($359) and get a view of the San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate Bridge, or Treasure Island. The list of spa and health services runs the granola gamut, from massage lessons to yoga and kayaking. The hotel is near major attractions, including the Ferry Building Marketplace, Pier 39, SOMA, and the Embarcadero Shopping Center. In the evening, before savoring the Italian delights of the hotel's Americano Restaurant and Bar, request a spot on the patio next to the aromatherapy garden for some sensual ambience.

SF's Slanted Door Shows the Way to Fine Dining

The Slanted Door, the restaurant all other San Francisco fusion eateries are trying to emulate, has a fabulous new location on the Embarcadero, looking out on the Bay Bridge. The 150-seat restaurant epitomizes San Francisco chic, with sleek wooden tables, subdued blue-green lighting, and images that suggest water. The mood is indeed serene but the succulent rack of lamb and caramelized plantation shrimp, or the brick oven-roasted Dungeness crab with garlic butter, will have you bellowing "Oregato!" Other menu items show the kitchen's fine hand with sumptuous contemporary Vietnamese cuisine---green papaya salad, clay pot catfish, Thai chilies, vegetarian crepes, and fresh salads, including grilled Monterey squid salad. The wine list makes a pitch for European wines, mostly from Austria and France, but there is the occasional California pinot noir. Reservations are essential. ---Benny Bleiman

The Many Faces of San Francisco

By Rachel F. Elson

Measuring just 7 miles by 7, compact San Francisco has a novel, microcosmic sense of the word "neighborhood." Often only two or three blocks will separate areas with markedly distinct culture, architecture and community. Walk two blocks west from the corner of 16th Street and Dolores Avenue and you'll be in the heart of the city's affluent and predominantly gay Castro District.
Alternatively, a few blocks northeast you'll find more motorcycle enthusiasts and aspiring turntablists. Or go half a mile to the south, to the heart of Noe Valley, where the streets are filled with young, professional couples and their stroller-bound progeny.

To get a sense of what makes San Francisco special, spend a little bit of time soaking up the flavor of its different neighborhoods. Here, an opinionated guide to a few of our favorites: what to expect, what to visit, and--perhaps most important--where to eat, drink, and soak in the scene.

Pacific Heights
The scene: Posh homes with a view of the Golden Gate top the hill, and elegant older apartment buildings surround two lush parks. This is San Francisco's answer to the Gold Coast, with old money and historic homes.
Local crowd: Moneyed, professional and put together. The crest of the hill has been home to such local notables as Danielle Steel, Larry Ellison and the Getty clan.
Main drag: Fillmore Street is home to design boutiques, charity thrift shops supporting the Junior League and San Francisco Symphony, and upscale cosmetics shops like Kiehl's and L'Occitane.
Green space: Alta Plaza and Lafayette Square are a matched set: sculpted, green and perched atop the Heights.
Must-see: The Haas-Lilienthal House, at the neighborhood's eastern edge, tells the story of San Francisco's early expansion, and of the destruction wrought by the 1906 quake. (It survived the ensuing blaze because broad Van Ness Boulevard, just one block away, served as a firebreak.)
Eat here: Elite Cafe on Fillmore has long been known for the oysters at its raw bar; across the way, locals pile into Harry's bar for cocktails and live music.

Marina & Cow Hollow
The scene: If you're 24, single, straight, and fresh out of college, there are no better places to live than the Marina and Cow Hollow, two neighborhoods that run parallel to each other at the city's northern edge. Edwardians and stucco "Marina-style" single-family homes stand in for the city's trademark Victorian flats in most places.
Local crowd: Young, fresh-scrubbed, and fit.
Main drag: Chestnut Street for cafes, bars, and chain shops; Union Street for swankier fashion and home accessories boutiques.
Green space: Kite fliers, soccer and volleyball players, runners, and cyclists command the key spots on high-energy Marina Green.
Must-see: The Exploratorium, a hands-on science museum, is set amid the graceful holdovers from the Pan Pacific Exhibition of 1915; walk along the recently restored Chrissy Field, a onetime military airstrip, to get a glimpse of San Francisco's wilder side.
Eat here: City singletons gather at the Grove cafe on Chestnut Street and at Perry's on Union; down at Fort Mason Center, Greens restaurant is San Francisco's vegetarian stalwart.

South of Market
The scene: Known occasionally as SoMa, this neighborhood has undergone several transitions over the last two decades, with a convention center, music clubs, a downtown ballpark and the Web explosion each in turn injecting new energy into what was once the city's industrial area.
Local crowd: Baseball fans, taxi drivers, urban sophisticates.
Main drag: None, really--but there are a few clusters of restaurants between Second and Fourth streets, from Market Street down to SBC Park. For nightlife, try the bars and nightclubs around the intersection of 11th and Folsom.
Green space: During the dot-com boom, khaki-clad product managers held meetings on the grass at cozy South Park; these days, the oval park is once again a pocket oasis in a sea of boxy industrial architecture.
Must-see: SBC Park, the home stadium for baseball's San Francisco Giants, has a setting and style that's positively glorious. Further along the water, shops in the renovated Ferry Building sell artisanal cheese, organic produce, gourmet olive oils and other delicacies. If you're looking for nightlife, catch a show at Slim's, the low-key music club founded by Boz Scaggs.
Eat here: Thirsty Bear offers locally made beers and Spanish tapas; Cafe Centro offers sophisticated snacks right on South Park; and the Slanted Door, a popular Vietnamese restaurant, has relocated once more to get a spot in the renovated Ferry Building.

Mission
The scene: Low to the ground and unusually flat, the area stretching south and east of the old Mission Dolores has been home to successive generations of immigrants. The latest invasion has brought thrift shops, tattoo & piercing studios, yoga studios, and a seemingly endless selection of inexpensive eateries--with cuisine ranging from Senegalese to Cambodian--but the neighborhood retains a strong Latino flavor, particularly along Mission and 24th streets.
Local crowd: Indie rockers and Web designers have priced out the low-riders, but there's still a significant Central American population.
Main drag: For "new Mission" hipsters, it's the shops and restaurants of Valencia Street between 16th and 24th streets; for old-school flavor, check out 24th Street east of Mission.
Green space: Dolores Park, which becomes a green beach on mild days.
Must-see: Taking a cue from its Mexican-American heritage, the 24th Street corridor has become a center for mural art. The Precita Eyes Mural Center offers weekend tours, but if you go alone, keep an eye out for second-story works and treasures tucked around street corners, and be sure to check out the stylings on Balmy Alley.
Eat here: Locals swear by the burritos at Taquería Cancun; you can also sample hard-to-find homemade tortillas at La Palma Mexica-tessen. Other favorites in this food-intense neighborhood include Senegalese restaurant Bissop Baobab, Italian-inspired hot spot Delfina, and creperie Ti Couz.

North Beach & Chinatown
The scene: As in many other cities, San Francisco's Italian neighborhood, North Beach, collides with the local Chinatown. Although both have jostled for turf over the decades, North Beach tends to occupy the hills north of Columbus, while Chinatown slides down toward the Financial District.
Local crowd: No longer ethnic enclaves, these neighborhoods now hold a mix of residents, most of whom have chosen their homes for both the culinary options and the pedestrian commute to San Francisco's downtown.
Main drag: Columbus Avenue north of Broadway is lined with Italian restaurants. Grant Avenue is famously the heart of Chinatown south of
Columbus; to the north, it's lined with quirky boutiques.
Green space: Washington Square Park
Must-see: Long-running revue "Beach Blanket Babylon" has been pleasing crowds at Club Fugazi since 1974. The first floor of Coit Tower features WPA-era murals painted in the 1930s. And to see a unique San Francisco byway, head toward Russian Hill to explore Macondray Lane--the real-life inspiration for Barbary Lane in Armistead Maupin's "Tales of the City."
Eat here: Expect intensely brewed coffee and Italian arias on the jukebox at Caffe Trieste. Cafe Jacqueline is famous for serving only souffles, while Fior d'Italia is famous for its food, longevity, and its memorabilia-filled Tony Bennett Room. Expect great food, mediocre service, and no elbow room whatsoever at busy House of Nanking.

Ten Tips to Get You Through Security

In an era of heightened security, it is important to be a savvy and prepared traveler who can navigate airport security checkpoints. Travelers Advantage(R) has developed a travelers' checklist---10 convenient tips to help you smoothly move through airport security.

1. Check the Permitted and Prohibited Items list on the TSA web site.
2. As you head toward the security area, take a deep breath and remain calm. Check and be sure you have your boarding pass and a government-issued photo identification card ready for security personnel.
3. Place valuables (jewelry, cash, laptop computers, and cash) only in carry-on baggage.
4. Before you get to the screening checkpoint, place your mobile phones, keys, loose change, money clips, PDAs, lighters, and metal accessories in your carry-on bag.
5. At the screening station, remove your laptop from its case and send it through the X-ray machine in its own plastic tray. Don't forget to label your laptop computer with your name, address and telephone number.
6. Store all undeveloped film and cameras containing film in your carry-on baggage. Ask for a hand inspection if you want to ensure that the X-ray machine does not damage your film.
7. If you are bringing a gift to friends or relatives, wrap it after you arrive at your destination. Otherwise, you might have to unwrap it to pass through security---even if it is in checked luggage.
8. Avoid carrying bottles of liquid through the screening checkpoint.
9. Take your time unpacking and repacking your belongings. If not, you may leave your laptop, keys, or wallet behind.
10. Be prepared to remove your shoes and belt.

Source: PR Newswire

Can You Hear Them Now? Celebrity Dial-a-Tours Take Off

Ever dream about being shown around town by a famous person?
Candide Media Works is heeding the call. In 2003, the company created Talking Street, which operates "cellphone tours" narrated by celebrities from movies and TV.

The celebrities aren't there just for their close ups. Each one is a longtime resident of their respective city, and their personal experience plays a part in the presentation. The company's excursion of New York City's Lower East Side, for instance, features TV funny man Jerry Stiller, who explains not only the well-known sights of the neighborhood, but a few of his favorite hang-outs as well. Actress Sigourney Weaver (right) narrates the Lower Manhattan walk, reflecting on her early youth growing up in the area now known as Ground Zero. Aerosmith legend Steven Tyler (photo below) does hosting duties on the Boston trek, and the Washington DC walk features CNN talk-show host Larry King, a 20-year resident of the Beltway.

Here's how it works: After purchasing a tour (cost is $5.95, and you can pay by credit card, charge it to your cellphone, or pay online), a visitor walks to one of the sites on the tour, punches in a local number on a cellphone, and then hears a three- to four-minute audio segment about a particular attraction. There are typically 12 to 15 stops on each tour, and you can take the junkets in any order you want and at your own pace (the fee is good for seven days).

The tours aren't bland recitations of information you can get at the library or on the Internet. The segments are authoritative and rigorously factchecked, but they also contain bits of celebrity gossip and colorful anecdotes. Each tour also features a guest appearance---or guest larynx, as it were---by another famous local. The Boston walk, for example, features an interview with Red Sox legend Carl Yastrzremski, and former mayor Rudolph Giuliani cameos on the tour of Lower Manhattan. Excerpts from a Franklin D. Roosevelt speech are showcased on the DC jaunt.

In addition to its New York, Boston, and DC walks, Talking Street has cellphone tours for San Antonio, Denver, the Sacramento Zoo, and the Minute Man National Park in Concord (Mass.). Future tours include Chicago, Miami, New Orleans, and San Francisco. Talking Street isn't saying which celebrity voices will be featured, but we're hoping Nathan Lane's name is floated for Frisco.---Chris Culwell

Hollywood Bling Without the Sting

Universal Studios Hollywood is offering up Silver Screen history at its latest attraction, The Wardrobe Department, a fashion retail store where all the gear comes from the wardrobe departments of NBC TV shows and movies. Even if you hate television you'll want to check it out because the prices on most items have been dramatically reduced.

Looking for a slinky cocktail dress worn by Karen on Will and Grace? A gown from the popular soap opera Passions? How about a pair of Betsy Johnson jeans from Crossing Jordan? The Wardrobe Department has these and hundreds of other fashion items, all by top designers, including Ralph Lauren, DKNY, Kenneth Cole, BCBG Max, and more.

The price slashing is serious, with $900 gowns from Passions going for $100, and $1000 Armani jackets selling for $90. Each item comes with a Certificate of Authenticity documenting the television or movie on which the item was worn.

The Wardrobe Department also stocks Hollywood collectibles, including cue cards, props, and limited accessories (get back to us about that hand saw from Crossing Jordan).

The Wardrobe Department is located in the middle of Universal Studios Hollywood, next to the Studio Tour attraction.

New Home for Tinsel Town Relics

LA's newish Hollywood Museum, occupying five floors of the swanky Max Factor building, does more to fan the flames of tinsel town legend than Turner Classic Movies, AMC, and Nick at Nite combined.

The museum, which opened last year, showcases some 5,000 props, costumes, photographs, and celebrity memorabilia. Many items are as unusual as they are priceless, like an "unlaundered" bathrobe belonging to Elvis Presley, or the sarong worn by Dorothy Lamour in South Pacific. Fans of Joan Crawford can ogle the star's Russian lamb coat (with matching handbag, of course), and for over-the-top zaniness there's the shockingly kitsch outfit modeled by Zsa Zsa Gabor in the Queen of Outer Space. You'll also find wardrobe items and personal memorabilia belonging to Mae West, Elizabeth Taylor, Bette Davis, Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, John Wayne, Jack Nicholson, and more stars than you can possibly fix a telescope on.

The tour de force exhibits include sets from movies, like Hannibal Lecter's cell from Silence of the Lambs (complete with psychopath-proof hand truck) and the bed chamber from Gladiator. No visit to the museum is complete, however, without taking a peek at Roddy McDowall's powder room, set up exactly as it was in the actor's Beverly Hills home, complete with original photos and personal notes of affection from celebrity chums (and lovers).

Not everything in the museum is a campfeast. The fourth floor spotlights dozens of original black-and-white photographs of moviedom's great goddesses taken by legendary photographers George Hurrell, Laszlo Willinger, Robert Richee, and Clarence Sinclair Bull.---Chris Culwell

Solo Traveler Excerpt

There's only one thing lonelier than sleeping alone, and that's...eating alone." So philosophizes a regular patron at the restaurant featured in Mostly Martha, a wry movie about a love-starved chef.

Yes, indeed, some people will endure anything -- even a life-time of bad sex -- just to avoid eating solo.

On the other hand, M. F. K. Fischer, the late, great food and travel writer, gloried in the solo dining experience. In Long Ago in France, she writes about a return trip to a city," ...went off, feeling infantile to keep a date I had made with myself. There was nothing really furtive about it, and I could have easily said the truth, that I wanted to dine alone in Dijon...!"

Some deal with dining alone as a peaceful, sensual treat -- a chance to concentrate on the joy of food and reflect on their day. Others would rather run into the restaurant kitchen, stir steaming pots of tripe, serve it to 10-percent tippers, and then scrape it off 100 plates -- anything, rather than eat by themselves.

I'll be honest. I don't love eating solo. Sometimes I don't even like it much. But even worse, I don't like the idea of not experiencing everything wonderful when I travel, and that includes fine dining, casual grazing, nightlife, and any pleasures that I would enjoy if I were with someone.

I remember one Thanksgiving in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. I was on assignment and missing my family. But I reluctantly hauled myself out of my beamed little room into a beamed little dining room, and ordered a chicken drumstick, silently wishing myself a Happy Thanksgiving. The waiter was solicitous, but I was shocked and thrilled when he brought the chicken with a tiny paper American flag he had drawn -- stuck in its thigh. He somehow knew. We smiled. That difficult meal alone remains a golden memory of that holiday, and of my travels.

Read Lea Lane's Top Ten Picks for Soloists or ask for advice on our Solo Traveler forum.

Lea's Top Ten Picks for Soloists

1. Amalfi Coast
   Top budget pick. This stretch from Sorrento to Salerno is heavily discounted in winter and early spring. Temperatures can be cool then, but the reason to go remains beauty---whether from off-road belvederes, or amid gardens in Ravello. Good deal: SITA blue line buses from Sorrento to Salerno.
   
   
2. Canada
   Top budget/solo-friendly pick. If you like Maine and bargains, you'll love the Canadian province of New Brunswick, just to the north. I enjoyed sweet scallops and even sweeter strawberries, and experienced the highest tides in the world in the Bay of Fundy. I find Canadians extremely kind and helpful. And when you're soloing, it's especially nice to be traveling in a foreign country where you can speak the language.
   
   
3. Thailand
   Top budget pick. Never colonized, Thailand has unusual rituals that date to the 13th century. The country remains exotic and inexpensive. Bargain at the vast Weekend Market for handicrafts and silk fabric. Some of the world's greatest hotels are in busy Bangkok and fine rooms can be under $100.
   
   
4. Grand Canyon
   Top solo experience pick. The national parks are crowded, but you don't need company to enjoy any of it. In fact, viewing the Grand Canyon once with others and once alone, there was no comparison. Solo was better!
   
   
5. Canyon Ranch
   Top spa pick. Relentless pampering can be jarring if you're unaccustomed to either the indulgence or the price tag, but if you're looking for a solo experience that places you at the center of the universe, this spa is exceptional.
   
   
6. Cliffside Inn
   Top lodging pick. Beds-and-breakfasts are right-on for solo travelers. Among the standard amenities are a private room (and, often, a private bath), full breakfasts at communal tables, drinks in the parlor, the opportunity to trade information and travel stories, a friendly house cat or dog to pet, and pastry and coffee anytime. What makes or breaks the experience, usually, are the owners. You never know when you'll come upon a Basil Fawlty or some other similarly memorable character, and traveling solo, you'll often connect.
   
   
7. New York
   Favorite solo city/domestic. What can anyone say about The Big Juicy Apple that hasn't been said? You'll be among many other soloists when you're on your own, and restaurants, attractions and hotels will cater to you comfortably. Soloing here is no biggie, and you can be stimulated and busy 24/7. Concerts, theater and museums are great places to spend time alone.
   
   
8. London
   Favorite solo city/ foreign. Language will be (almost) no barrier, and same as in NYC, you'll find loads of fellow soloists. Take day trips to see the Cotswalds, Oxford or Cambridge. Try walking tours, a great way to meet others. Pubs are fun, and you can always join in a game there.
   
   
9. Peter Deilmann Cruises
   Top river cruise line. On the rivers of Europe or on the high seas around Asia, this popular European company offers comfortably elegant accomodations, great food, a relaxing pace, and a sophisticated clientele, agreeable to soloists.
   
   
10. Windstar
    Top small cruise line. Cruising under five sails, or motorized, you'll find fewer than 300 other cruisers, which makes for a nice group for soloists. Itineraries include the Mediterranean, The Greek Isles, Tahiti and the Caribbean. Food is excellent, and vessels are sleek and elegant.

Read an excerpt from Lea Lane's Solo Traveler. Need some advice? Go to our Solo Traveler forum and ask her.

40 Cool Shops in the Windy City

Chicago is cloud nine for shoppers. You can find just about anything here, and often at half the price you might pay on either coast. Still, get ready for some serious spending if you're hitting the big-name retailers. Chicago is filled with lesser-known but high-quality stores, which makes shopping an adventure for those who are patient enough to avoid the Usual Suspects. The Fodors.com shopping section has exact addresses and phone numbers to these and other stores.

Antiques
To catch the maximum number of open dealers, it's best to tackle this route after brunch on a weekend or on a Thursday or Friday. Assuming your interest runs more toward 20th-century collectibles than Biedermeier, this tour focuses mostly on the western section of Lake View neighborhood (north of Lincoln Park and west of Wrigley Field).
Take the 11 Lincoln Avenue bus or a taxi to the Chicago Antique Centre to browse through the wares of its 35 dealers. Across the street is Red Eye Antiques, crammed to the gills with an eclectic selection of prime furnishings, textiles, and artifacts from different eras. It's a short walk to the Lincoln Antique Mall, which stockpiles everything from kitchenware to furniture, mostly post-1920. There's also a huge selection of estate jewelry, sterling, oil paintings, and photographs. Keep your eyes open for other antiques and vintage-clothing shops along this stretch of Lincoln Avenue. Two superb sources for adventurous, mid-20th-century, modern furnishings and collectibles are Urban Artifacts and Zig Zag. Venture north on Ashland Avenue to check out the 19th- and 20th-century furnishings at Daniels Antiques.
Next, take a taxi over to the Belmont Avenue antiques area. Antique Resources is worth a look for choice Georgian antiques at equally choice prices. Danger City is filled with great barware and other reminders of swank living from the 1950s, '60s, and '70s.
Architectural Artifacts is an amazing repository for statuary, garden ornaments, and the like. Evanstonia Antiques & Restoration carries English and Continental furnishings. At Broadway Antique Market you can pick up excellent mid-20th-century pieces that range from art deco to Arts and Crafts and beyond. From there, it's two blocks to the Granville El stop to get a train downtown.

Art Galleries
To get an overview of the city's vibrant art scene, start with the classics on Michigan Avenue. R. S. Johnson Fine Art carries both old masters and 20th-century works worthy of many museums. Stop next door at R. H. Love Galleries for American art from the colonial period to the early 20th century.
The Richard Gray Gallery displays works by modern masters.
From there, take a taxi to the intersection of Superior and Franklin streets in River North; dozens of galleries stud the neighboring blocks. Douglas Dawson always has an alluring display of art and artifacts from the Americas, Asia, and Africa. The Catherine Edelman Gallery is devoted to works of living photographers, including Michael Kenna, whose luminous work is almost always on display in the gallery (Kenna's "Seven Posts in Snow, Rumoi, Hokkaido, Japan" is featured on the right). For a fascinating look at extraordinary works by visionary artists of all stripes, stop by the Carl Hammer Gallery and the Ann Nathan Gallery.

The Magnificent Mile
A visit to Chicago wouldn't be complete without a tour of the superchic stores on North Michigan Avenue; several rate as must-see attractions, either for their design, merchandise, or sheer fun. Start on the east side of the avenue at the Chicago River and continue up to Oak Street. The don't-miss stops include the four-story Shops at North Bridge, a mall with a 270,000-square-foot Nordstrom; Virgin Megastore; Burberry; NikeTown; the Apple Store; Neiman Marcus; Water Tower Place; Gucci; and Louis Vuitton.
Turn left on Oak Street, where you'll want to check out the designer clothing at Ultimo, the home accoutrements and fashion accessories at Elements, the handbags, shoes, and men's furnishings at Kate Spade, the minimalist styles at Jil Sander, and the uber-chic fashion and home accessories at Barneys New York.
Take a left on Rush Street to absorb street style at Urban Outfitters, and another left on Walton Street to pop into kitchenware utopia Sur La Table. Just before reaching Michigan Avenue, you can duck into Bloomingdale's and the other stores inside the 900 North Michigan Shops.

Other great places to shop in the Windy City include Hubba-Hubba (3309 North Clark Street), which has floral frocks, jewelry, and lots of accessories, and Vive La Femme (2115 North Damen Avenue) where you'll find outfits for the plus-size shopper. Also on this strip is I Candy, a trendy shop for trendy gals. Also worth a look is Daffodil Hill (1659 North Damen Avenue), one of Chicago's loveliest boutiques, outfitted with attractive multi-colored shelving. It's a low-key sensibility at work here, the clothing labels running from Weston Wear to Lacoste and Cutter & Buck. The occasional sale here can be a good opportunity to clean up.

And don't forget Target (2115 North Damen Avenue). The Chicago store is one of the chain's biggest, featuring everything from fashions by Mossimo to household items designed by Michael Graves. You can't beat the prices or the surplus.

Photo Credits: (1) Corbis; (2) Michael Kenna, "Seven Posts in Snow, Rumoi, Hokkaido, Japan, 2004," Courtesy of Catherine Edelman Gallery, Chicago.

Valencia: En Fuego for Las Fallas

Valencia becomes a giant bonfire during Las Fallas, or "the fires," a five-day festival (March 12-19) honoring St. Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. This curious celebration began hundreds of years ago as a simple feast for St. Joe, but today three million people throng the streets for the week-long fete.

The main show is the creation and subsequent incineration of hundreds of ninots, gigantic and often grotesque effigies that depict both popular and not-so-popular figures.

Bring your earplugs to the midnight La Crema on the 19th, when the ninots are stuffed with firecrackers and ignited. Prior to this mass incineration is the daily mascelata, a blazing fireworks display in the Plaza Ayuntamiento. Not everything at Las Fallas smolders---you can also attend bullfights, parades, and beauty pageants.

Dying to strike a match? Flights to Valencia typically run from $400-600 from New York, Washington DC, and Boston for that particular week.

See what all the fiery frenzy is about in our talk forums

The MoMA Way: Artful Gastronomy

Why is it so many museum restaurants put us off eating? Could it be the cold fluorescent lighting, the wilted Waldorf salads, the crowded tables? Tonier establishments do better with food and lighting, but most are so cramped and noisy you'd might as well park yourself on a bench outside with a bag of Fritos. Happily, The Bar Room, MoMA's new bar and lounge adjoining the museum's recently anointed restaurant, The Modern, has put pleasure and style back into museum dining.

Pleasure begins at the door, where a spacious walkway, illuminated by a luminescent glass wall, leads diners to a warm, open room with blond wood flooring, subdued lighting, and contemporary Danish tables handsomely outfitted with comfy black leather and steel chairs. The room's bravura touches---a marble bar floating above a lighted glass base, a wall-length photograph of a forest, red leather lounge chairs---convey a sense of fun and adventure without overwhelming.

That knack for subtle flash carries over to the kitchen. Offering an array of small and large plates, Chef Gabriel Kreuther's Alsatian-influenced menu aims for an array of short bursts of intense and contrasting flavors, like Modern Liverwurst with Mustard and Lingonberry, Venison Terrine with Huckleberry, or Braised Pork Cheeks with Sauerkraut and Ginger Jus. It's an inspired trip through Flavorland, the Liverwurst and Lingonberry running neck and neck with a Pistachio-Crusted Black Bass for top honors the night we visited. Alas, the less ambitious dishes---Pasta Tagliatelle with Black Truffles, Sweetbread Ravioli---were a bit ho hum. ---Chris Culwell

The Bar Room at The Modern, 9 West Fifty-Third Street, 212-333-1220

Photo Credit: Quentin Bacon

Splendor in the Fog: 5 Days in San Francisco

San Francisco's appeal stems from the distinct personalities of its many neighborhoods--Fisherman's Wharf, Chinatown, SOMA, Pacific Heights, the Haight, Japantown, the Mission, Potrero Hill, just to name a few. You could spend years in San Francisco and still feel like you don't know all of the city's diverse charms, but if time is limited this itinerary can help you see at least some of the highlights in 5 days.

Day 1.
Spend the day in San Francisco's bustling commercial centers. In the morning explore Fisherman's Wharf and its jumble of tourist shops, street performers, and artists. Pier 39 is a consumer extravaganza; a double-decker carousel shares space with Aquarium of the Bay, a walk-through glimpse of ocean life. Jump a cable car (the Powell-Hyde line is the most dramatic) at the wharf and take in sweeping views of the bay, Alcatraz, and the Golden Gate Bridge as you rattle your way to Union Square, the place for sophisticated shopping. Charming Maiden Lane is worth a look. Weekdays are better than weekends for this plan.

Day 2. Devote the day to two of the most important cultures in the city's history. Head to North Beach, the Italian quarter, for espresso and pastry at an outdoor cafe along Columbus Avenue. Allow an hour or two to wander this small area filled with tempting delis, bakeries, and pasta houses. You see beat-era landmarks, such as City Lights Bookstore, and reminders of the city's bawdy past in the clubs of Broadway. Walk up Telegraph Hill to Coit Tower; you'll be rewarded with breathtaking views of the bay and the city's tightly stacked homes. Spend the afternoon exploring labyrinthine Chinatown; then take the California Street cable car up Nob Hill and top off the evening with a tropical drink in the wacky Tonga Room, the Fairmont hotel's kitschy-chic lounge.

Day 3. Focus on the city's outdoor highlights. Take a morning ferry from Pier 41 to the infamous Alcatraz prison. When the boat docks back at the pier, head toward the Marina neighborhood, home to young professionals and exclusive boutiques and bistros. Along the way, catch a glimpse of San Francisco's nautical history at the National Maritime Museum. If you love chocolate, stop at Ghirardelli Square, which includes a shopping center and the tempting Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory. Make a beeline for the end of the Marina and the stunning Palace of Fine Arts. Before dusk, bundle up and head to the Golden Gate Bridge to catch the sunset.

Day 4. Dedicate the morning to art and the rest of the day to funk. Start at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, in SOMA, where you can see contemporary art from around the world in addition to a first-rate permanent collection that includes stunning works by Rothko, Warhol, Johns, and many other art stars. Across Third Street is Yerba Buena Gardens and its arts center, Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, which has an intimate theater showing wildly eclectic fare (everything from Warhol's "Empire" to Michael Mann's "Heat.") Then take one of the F-line's vintage trolleys along Market Street to the Castro, brimming with shops, bars, and cafes. From there, it's a couple blocks south to the Mission District, a neighborhood of twentysomething hipsters and working-class Latino families. This is also where you'll find some of the city's newest and best restaurants, like Angkor Borei (3471 Mission Street) and Foreign Cinema (2534 Mission Street).

Day 5. Step back into San Francisco's hippie days and explore its most glorious green space. Start in the Haight, the epicenter of 1960s counterculture, where streets are lined with excellent music and book shops and cool vintage-clothing stores. In the afternoon join in-line skaters, joggers, and walkers in picnic-perfect Golden Gate Park---more than 1,000 acres of greenery stretching from the Haight to the Pacific. Among the botanical gardens and playing fields are the serene Japanese Tea Garden and the splendid Conservatory of Flowers. Spend the rest of the afternoon strolling around Stow Lake. Head up to the Cliff House, where a view of the Pacific sunset provides a stunning backdrop for dinner.

If You Have More Time

Drive over the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marin Headlands or to redwood-rich Muir Woods. Or head across the Bay Bridge and explore Oakland-Berkeley. The wineries and hilly vistas of Napa and Sonoma counties are also within easy reach.

Click here for more sights, dining, and lodging information on San Francisco.

London: Smoking Ban Up in Smoke?

Italy has done it, so has Ireland, Norway, and even Cuba. Now the U.K. is gearing up to ban smoking in all enclosed public spaces by the end of 2008. Although the public favors the initiative, smokers aren't reaching for the ashtray just yet. Civil liberties groups, the tobacco industry, and pub owners are looking for a compromise, and Blair's cabinet, aware that 27 percent of the voting population smokes, is backsliding. Indeed, while smokers who visit Scotland won't be able to light up indoors in public as of March 2006, England has already permitted a loophole in its anti-smoking campaign, permitting cigarette smoking in pubs that don't serve food. Blair's dithering has resulted in a pre-emptive strike---the JD Wetherspoon chain last month announced it will ban smoking in its 650 British pubs by May 2006.

--Adam Gold, London

Dungeons and Crumpets: 5 Days in London

The great Samuel Johnson once noted that when one is tired of London "one is tired of life, for there is in London all that life can afford." Indeed, London is a delicious mess of a place, with more than 7 million residents, a rich history dating back more than a thousand years, and an ethnic complexity that makes it a crossroads of the world. To really know the city would require a lifetime, but as time is limited we've mapped out a plan that will let you graze among the delectables without feeling rushed. You'll need the Underground to cover long distances, but as you'll soon learn, London rewards those who stroll its streets.

Day 1. Spend your first day in Royal London, which contains much that is historic and traditional in British life. Get an early start at medieval Westminster Abbey---if Prince Charles becomes king, this is where he will be crowned. After an hour exploring the abbey, make the 15-minute walk (or Tube it from Westminster to St. James's Park) to catch the Changing of the Guard at 11:20, outside Buckingham Palace. You need to get there by 10:45. In season, an alternative option is to tour the palace.

Next stroll down the Mall, enjoying the view the monarch sees when she rides in her gilded coach to open Parliament every year. Passing King George IV's glorious Carlton House Terrace, walk through the Admiralty Arch into Trafalgar Square, the very center of the city. Spend an hour or two in the National Gallery, viewing Leonardo's "Madonna of the Rocks," or go to nearby St. Martin's Place and the National Portrait Gallery to see a who's who of English history.

From Trafalgar Square, head south to Whitehall, which is lined with grand government buildings, the Banqueting House, outside of which King Charles I was beheaded, and the Horse Guards Parade (Her Majesty's mounted guardsmen make a great photo op). Head past 10 Downing Street, the prime minister's residence, to the Houses of Parliament. To see them, you have two options: either wait in line for the limited seats available in the Strangers Gallery of either house (use the St. Stephen's Entrance opposite the abbey) or prebook a tour, which shows off the state rooms. Eventually you'll hear Big Ben signaling the approaching dinner hour. In the mood for a taste sensation? Try the Cinnamon Club, in the old converted Westminster Library (020/7222-2555) on Great Smith Street.

It's best to do this tour on Tuesday or Wednesday. From August through March, the Changing of the Guard (usually a daily event) occurs only every other day; check schedules. Buckingham Palace is open daily in season---from late August to early October. When the Houses of Parliament are open to visitors, the House of Lords is closed from Thursday to Sunday, the House of Commons from Friday to Sunday. On Sunday the Banqueting House is closed, and Westminster Abbey (except for the museum) is open only to those attending services.

Day 2. Think of this day as London 101---a tour of the city's postcard sights. Begin at the British Museum (the Elgin Marbles, the Rosetta Stone, the Sutton Hoo Treasure), then explore bookish Bloomsbury, including the Dickens House Museum and the British Library (on Euston Road, 10 blocks north), perhaps tracking the spirit of Virginia Woolf on Bedford, Russell, and Bloomsbury squares. Now head southeast to visit the Regency delight that is Sir John Soane's Museum at Lincoln's Inn. Continue south to Fleet Street, then east to 17th-century St. Paul's Cathedral, the city's presiding spirit.

Wander south to Blackfriars Bridge and cross the Thames to Southwark; stop at the Tate Modern (right) or take in a play at Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. At day's end, journey along Old Father Thames either east to Le Pont de la Tour or west to the OXO Tower for a riverside dinner. Don't plan on doing Day 2 on Sunday, when both the Dickens House Museum and Sir John Soane's Museum are closed. Note that Shakespeare's Globe stages plays in the open-air theater only from May to September.

Day 3 Explore St. James's and Mayfair, the core of London's posh West End. From Piccadilly Circus go west on Piccadilly to splurge on breakfast at the Queen's grocers, Fortnum & Mason. For a brush with royalty, detour several blocks to view the outside of Prince Charles's Tudor-era home, St. James's Palace near St. James's Square, then continue on to palatial Spencer House, which once housed the ancestors of the late Princess Diana. From Piccadilly travel north for some ritzy window-shopping on Bond Street, in the Burlington Arcade, and along Savile Row, continuing on through Mayfair via Mount Street, Carlos Place---tea at the Connaught Hotel, anyone?---and Grosvenor Square. From here take Duke Street north to view the superb paintings at the Wallace Collection on Manchester Square. Keep going south to Park Lane and, just before Hyde Park Corner, visit Apsley House, by the Duke of Wellington's mansion. To the southwest is the splendidly aristocratic enclave of Belgravia. Apsley House is closed on Monday, and Spencer House is open only on Sunday.

Day 4. London legends populate this itinerary. First take a break from the city and travel up to its most famous "village," Hampstead. After taking in the picturesque houses, chic cafes, and Church Row---London's most complete Georgian street---move on to Abbey Road (if you're a Beatlemaniac), in nearby St. John's Wood. Then take the Tube down to Baker Street and visit the Sherlock Holmes Museum or Madame Tussaud's (a must for kids). Go north to Regent's Park and its elegant Cumberland Terrace and Chester Terrace. In the afternoon take the Tube to Tower Hill and the Tower of London to see the Crown Jewels and the Tower Ravens. At dusk, cross the street to the Tower Hill Tube stop to pick up a spine-chilling Jack the Ripper Mystery Walk through the East End.

Day 5. This segment of your itinerary is all about shopping, history, and priceless art. Begin at the "museum mile" of South Kensington. See either the Victoria & Albert Museum, or, if you have children, opt for the Natural History Museum or the Science Museum. Head up Brompton Road for lunch in Knightsbridge and shopping at Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Afterward you can go north or south. To the north, in Kensington Gardens, you can salute the Peter Pan statue, then visit Kensington Palace, childhood home of Queen Victoria and repository of the Royal Dress Collection. Have dinner in sassy and sophisticated Notting Hill. Alternatively, from Knightsbridge you might head south to historic Chelsea to charming Cheyne Walk and the Tate Britain. If you go this route, end the day by seeing a play or musical in the West End's Theatreland.

Click here for additional sights, dining, and lodging information for London.

Photo Credits: (top) Photo Disc; (bottom) Corbis

Glitz and Gigawatts: 5 Days in Las Vegas

Nightclubs, casinos, theatre, dancing girls, exploding volcanoes, million-dollar paintings---you could easily spend a lifetime in Vegas and still not exhaust the city's bottomless gift for glitz and razmatazz. But if time is limited, you'll need a list of the best things to see and do in a short time. The following itinerary will help you structure a trip that takes in a wide swath of Las Vegas culture.

Day 1. The Strip is huge, so it's best to divide it into two chunks. On Day 1, explore the southern end of the Strip, as far north as Flamingo Road. Take the monorail that runs the length of the Strip or hop on a Strip shuttle or CAT bus. Start with a look around Mandalay and the medieval kitsch of the Excalibur, then cross the Strip on an elevated pedestrian walk and take a peek at Old Vegas at the Tropicana. Another elevated pedestrian walk and a few shorts steps and you'll find yourself inside the MGM Grand; be sure to check out the lion habitat. Then it's back across the Strip to New York--New York.

Hop the tram at the Monte Carlo and cruise on up to the Bellagio. Just outside the tram stop you'll find the Bellagio conservatory with its amazing botanical gardens. Be sure to view the dancing waters from the sidewalk on the Strip. Then it's back up onto the pedestrian bridge to cross the Strip and explore Bally's, Paris, and the Aladdin. And don't miss the Aladdin's Desert Passage shopping area.

Day 2. Pick up where you left off, and devote Day 2 to exploring the Strip north of the Flamingo Road intersection. Caesars Palace, the showpiece of this part of the Strip, is a good place to start. Then cross the Strip and take in the Flamingo, the Imperial Palace, and the Venetian, maybe taking a quick break for a gondola ride. Cross the Strip at Spring Mountain Road to do a little shopping at Fashion Show Mall and, heading south now, tour the Treasure Island and the Mirage. If you time it right and it's after dark, you might see the volcano blow.

Then a good plan would be to hop some motorized transportation and head up to the Stratosphere to see the city from a whole different perspective---and maybe get a few thrills on the Big Shot. Later that night, head downtown for the Fremont Street Experience sound-and-light show and a drink in Main Street Station's brewpub.

Day 3. Take a quick morning break from casino madness in the awesome scenery of Red Rock Canyon, then fling yourself back into the fray in the afternoon by experiencing an "only in Vegas" attraction. Rise early and take Charleston Boulevard west to Red Rock Canyon and hike the desert or scramble up the sandstone. In the afternoon, take your pick of Las Vegas attractions---ride the Manhattan Express roller coaster at New York--New York, visit Adventuredome at Circus Circus. If museums are more to your taste, take in the Liberace Museum, Elvis-A-Rama Museum, the Guggenheim-Hermitage Museum, or the Imperial Palace Auto Collection.

Day 4. Today you can marvel at the civil engineering masterpiece that makes Las Vegas possible, and then gamble like a local. Begin by heading out to Boulder City and Hoover Dam. Tour the visitor center and dam, and maybe drive over to Lake Mead Marina. Then head to either of the "other" casino strips to mingle with the locals. You can see the parklike atrium as well as the laser and dancing water show at Sam's Town on the Boulder Strip or sample the sumptuous buffet at Texas Station.

Day 5. On your fifth day, you can head up to Mt. Charleston for a mountain (skiing or hiking) experience, hop a flight-seeing tour to the Grand Canyon, or drive down to Laughlin for a taste of gambling that is qualitatively different from Las Vegas.

Click here for sights, dining, and lodging information on Las Vegas.

Photo Credit: Corbis

Travel Pro Shares Online Booking Tips

By Dave Downing

In my voyages over the years, I've learned that "travel tip" is a relative term at best and an oxymoron at worst. What's a hot tip one season might not be the best advice the next, and what might be a smart choice for one traveler might be another's undoing. As Fodors.com's resident Tipster, I'm here to share tips, ideas, and tricks of the trade I've learned by trial and error, ones that will help you make the most of your travels - and your travel dollars.

Here are three strategies that have saved me money recently:

Hot Tip 1: Book Tickets Separately

If you are booking two tickets on the same flight, first try booking them together (choose "2" from the "number of tickets" menu), then try booking one ticket two times (choose "1" from the menu, then repeat). Depending on how full the flight is at the time - the fewer seats available, the more likely this move will pay off - you can save anywhere from 25 to 75 percent just by booking the tickets separately.

The reason for the savings is that when you book two or more tickets the computer automatically searches for consecutive seats in the same fare class, such as the A and B seats in row 32 of coach class, for example. If two consecutive seats in one fare class are not available, the seats offered will be in the next higher fare class. But in that same row 32, the A and C seats might be open, but are not offered as an option. In this case, you'd be better off booking the two lower-price tickets separately and then working with the gate personnel or with the flight attendant to finagle two seats together.

Hot Tip 2: Check Out Last-Minute Package Deals

This next tip is most useful when you are booking a last-minute airline ticket. Many booking sites offer package deals or last-minute deals that pair a hotel room or a rental car (or both) with a flight, sometimes at an unbelievable discount. Last month, the best Web deal to be had on three days notice for a ticket from New York City to Orlando was $340 round-trip.

But package deal at Expedia offered the same itinerary with a rental car for $260 -- a savings of 25 percent just for taking a rental car! Also, the return flight on the package deal was a nonstop flight, making that deal all the sweeter. (Expedia is Fodors.com's booking partner, but you can find these deals at other sites and sometimes on the airline sites as well.)

Hot Tip 3: Beware Affinity Group Discounts

You may belong to what's known in business parlance as an "affinity group," an organization or club -- such as an auto club, a retiree organization, or a wholesale shopping club -- that offers its members discount rates on hotels, rental cars, airline tickets, et cetera. Usually you'll save anywhere from 5 to 20 percent off the standard rate by taking advantage of your affiliation with these groups.

The tricky part is that the standard rate changes from one day to the next - in some cases, from one hour to the next - so the discount rate you are receiving might not always be the best rate available to you. To make sure you are getting the best deal, try booking without identifying yourself as an affinity group member, and then inquire again using your discount. Depending on the time of year and the demand (slower travel times, such as the lull between summer and fall, are when standard rates drop substantially) you might save money by not using your affinity group discount.

Travel Training

Training is what determines whether traveling with your pet will be easy and enjoyable or no fun at all. A calm, well-mannered pet who likes to be around people is a joy to be with. Dogs and cats are social animals, and training helps your pet to communicate with you by putting human words to dog and cat behaviors. If you think your pet needs some travel training, start a few weeks before your trip to give both of you ample time.

Both cats and dogs should know how to be friendly with people and how to relax and calmly accept travel. They should know how to settle down in different situations, especially when left alone in a safe place. They should also be house-trained or litterbox trained. Dogs should know how to come to you when you call (cats can learn this, too!), to walk politely on a leash, and to stop barking when asked.

Socializing

Take your pet out into the world and let him or her become accustomed to new sights, sounds, and people. Introduce him to people at your home, then take him with you on errands around town. Never push your pet into a situation where he feels uncomfortable. Take along some treats and offer them as a way of praising your pet for calmly accepting new experiences. He will soon associate new experiences with good things.

Greeting People

Start teaching your pet at home that meeting people is a safe and fun thing to do. The more good experiences your pet has with people, the more comfortable he will be around people. Take him to meet people all over town: at the local shopping mall, in the park, and on the streets.

You should also teach him to sit to greet people. To do this, invite friends over and have each of them ready with a handful of treats. Have your dog on a leash and when they approach to greet him ask him to sit. While he is sitting they can give him a bit of food. Then have them vary from occasionally giving food to giving praise alone when he sits. He will learn that saying hello to people while sitting is a rewarding experience.

For your cat, you can have people gently hold him and offer him a treat.

Speaking and Shushing

To teach your dog to be quiet on command, you first will have to get him to bark. Set up a situation that will get him to do so. Say "speak" and have a friend ring the doorbell. Praise him for barking once or twice, tell him to "shush" and waggle a treat in front of his nose. He will stop barking to sniff the treat. When he is quiet for just a moment give him the treat. Repeat this process a few times a day and he will start to understand that being quiet when you ask him to means he may get a reward.

When he masters this exercise at home, practice at friends' homes so you have reliable control in many places.

Walk This Way

Your dog should be able to walk calmly by your side, even in crowded areas. To teach this, start by walking her first in relatively quiet areas around your home and garden. Take one step, ask your dog to sit, and reward her with a bit of food. Repeat this many times until your dog sits automatically when you stop. Now increase to two steps in between each sit, then three, four, and so on.

Pretty soon your dog will be walking attentively by your side for many steps and sitting automatically when you stop. This is walking nicely on a leash.
Most people think cats can't be trained to walk on a leash, but they can.

If you plan on traveling with your cat it is a good idea to get her used to wearing a harness and leash for safety. You can teach your cat to enjoy wearing her harness by slowly acclimating her to it. To begin, put it on her for short periods of time. Each time she wears it give her a special food treat. In a short while she will associate wearing her harness with something great -- food.

Coming When Called

Teaching your dog to come to you when called is the most valuable emergency safety command. Imagine he's gotten loose and is headed toward a road. It's imperative that he know to respond immediately when you call him. Unlike when training at home, where the objective is to phase out lures and rewards for obedience, it is a sound policy to always have a reward handy when on the road. Let your dog know he is highly likely to get a couple of treats and lots of praise when he comes when called.

It is dangerous to have a dog who won't come when called while at home, but it is disastrous to lose your dog in an unfamiliar setting.

Start by having your dog on a leash in a calm environment without too many distractions. Call him to you. When he turns your way, praise him, and give him a treat when he gets to you. You can also enlist friends and family to play recall games. Call your dog back and forth between you and a friend, rewarding him lavishly each time. When he responds reliably at home, try new areas to train, but always keep him on a leash. You can use a longer leash and practice having him come when you call from a farther distance.

With this reward system, your dog will learn that coming to you always results in something great: your praise and/or a treat. This means you shouldn't call your dog to you when you are going to do something to him he doesn't like, such as give him a bath. In those cases, go and get him.

No matter how reliable a recall you teach, please try to keep your dog on a leash as much as possible when traveling. Remember, his attention and obedience will probably not be as dependable in unfamiliar places.

Settling Down

Your dog should be able to settle down at the drop of a hat. Start in your calm home environment by teaching him that the word down means to lie down and relax until you release him. Have a blanket, towel, or scrap of rug as the dog's settle-down spot. Ask him to lie down on it and use a bit of food in your hand to guide his head down, in which case his body will follow.

When he is lying down, give him the treat and praise him. Let him know when he can get up by saying a word or phrase such as "all done." Start with very short periods of time and gradually build up. By repeating this you will be teaching him that lying quietly on that spot is the best way to get two of the things he likes most: your attention and a treat.

Be sure to practice in different places -- by your side, at the dinner table, while you're watching television or reading a book. Practice with the dog out of sight in a different room to prepare him for a time when you may need to leave him alone in his carrier while traveling.

When your dog will lie quietly in your home for a few moments, you should begin to use the settle-down command on walks. Stop every 25 yards or so to train him to quickly lie down and relax even when he is excited (as most dogs are when going for a walk). Use praise and food the same way you did in your home. Offer him a bit to get him into the "down" position by using your hand with the food in it to guide his head to the floor. When he is lying down, occasionally give him the treat and praise him.

Relaxing to music

At home, put some music on every time you feed, stroke, or massage your pet. After a while your pet will begin to associate this music with positive and calm experiences. Then you can take the music with you when you travel to help calm your pet.

Eliminating

Whether you want your dog to go outside or on paper inside, training him or her to go on cue will make traveling much easier. "Pit stops" often are meant to be fast, and waiting for your dog to find just the right spot can delay your trip.
With a small dog who goes on paper, the act of placing the paper on the floor usually is enough to get her to go. But larger dogs who eliminate outside are often taught to go for a long walk before they eliminate.

Change things around: When you take your dog out, wait for her to eliminate before you walk around the block. When she begins to eliminate say something like "go potty" in a happy tone and praise her. This way she'll learn to go immediately on command and see the walk as the reward. For the first week or two this training may seem tedious (just standing in one spot), but it will be well worth the effort when you are on the road or when you must take your dog out on a rainy night.

Car Travel

Most pets only travel when going to the veterinarian, groomer or kennel, all of which are not conducive to your pet enjoying travel. If your pet hasn't traveled much, you should dedicate at least a few weeks before your trip to getting him accustomed to car travel and carrier training.

When your pet is calm and relaxed in the carrier at home, you can repeat the training process with the carrier placed in your car. After a few days take short trips in the car and make the destination a place that will please your pet. Most dogs will learn to love car rides if they believe they will sometimes be going to play ball in the local park.

Carrier and Crate Training

Crating allows you to relax while your pet is safe and secure in a familiar place. The first step is to teach your pet to accept and even enjoy time spent in his carrier. If used properly, a carrier is a fantastic tool for training and helping your pet to feel at home anywhere.

How long should this process take? Training puppies takes very little time. Older dogs and cats usually require a little more time, depending on your pet's temperament. The more laid-back your pet, the quicker he'll respond. On average, it should take no more than a few weeks to teach your pet that his carrier is a pleasant place to spend a little time.

Training Routine

To begin, place the carrier near your pet's feeding and/or resting area. Let him investigate it on his own. A great little trick is to put food inside the crate and close the door with him outside the crate. When he shows a strong interest in the food, open the door and let him go in to get it. Then begin to have him spend time in the carrier by gently placing him in it and offering a food treat.
Slowly increase the time your pet spends in the crate, from a few seconds to a few minutes.

Make sure every encounter is a pleasant one and never use the carrier to punish your pet. Continue to have your pet spend time in his carrier doing things he enjoys (such as eating). To ensure that your pet sees his carrier as a safe place, don't let people bother him when he is in it.

Choosing a Carrier

There are three main considerations to keep in mind when choosing a carrier: size, quality, and comfort.

The carrier should be big enough for your pet to stand up, turn around and lie down in. Don't make the mistake of choosing one that gives your pet too much extra room. Animals are more likely to be injured in a carrier that is too big.
Airline-approved carriers are a wise choice, because they can be used for both air and car travel and offer the best assurance of durability.

Maintenance

For most pets you should line the carrier with a mat, towels, or shredded newspaper. However, if you are still house-training your dog, a liner may make him more likely to use the crate as a toilet. So until he is house-trained, keep the carrier floor bare.

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging

Pet-Friendly Lodging

Allowing pets to stay is a courtesy offered by hotels. Many places roll out the red carpet for travelers with pets, but they are also quick to roll the carpet up and put it away after just one or two bad encounters. You and your pet act as ambassadors for every person who travels with his or her pet, so please be on your best behavior. Make sure to adhere to some basic rules, such as cleaning up after your pet, as well as to any specific rules posted by the manager. If no rules are posted, ask about them and follow them. Be understanding of people's concerns about pets.

Preparation is the key to traveling successfully with your pet. As when making any travel plans, the farther in advance you begin the better. This includes training your pet for travel and making reservations for accommodations.
It is important to call ahead and confirm the pet-friendly status of your lodgings a few days prior to your departure. It's not uncommon for the policies of accommodations to change on short notice. After all, it can take just one irresponsible visitor with his or her pet to convince a manager that pets just aren't worth the trouble.

When confirming your reservation, double-check the fees and restrictions of each lodging. Accommodations often have restrictions on the size and age of animals (puppies are often discouraged). Be prepared to leave a deposit (usually refundable) in case your animal damages the property.

Try to have a confirmation mailed or faxed to you prior to your departure. At the very least, take down the name and title of a contact person at each of your lodgings.

General Guidelines

Use the following general guidelines while in lodgings:

Always clean up after your pet.

Walk your pet in areas away from flower beds and other public areas.

Ask the manager where he would prefer you to walk your pet.

In public areas, keep your pet on a leash or in its carrier.

Never leave your pet alone in your room unless he is in his carrier and you are sure he will not disturb other guests. This is for the safety of your pet and the lodging employees, who might enter the room to clean and accidentally let your pet slip out. For the safety of employees, if you must leave your pet alone in a room, it is best to hang the Do Not Disturb sign on the door.

If your pet damages any hotel property, immediately discuss the situation with the manager and agree to cover the cost.

Request a ground-floor room, which is much more convenient for late-night potty runs.

Wipe your dog's feet when you enter the room after a walk, and bring your own towel or sheet if you intend to allow the dog on the furniture (which you shouldn't do anyway).

Bring a relaxation tape for your pet. Before you leave on your trip, play a music tape every time you feed him. He will begin to associate the tape with pleasant, calm experiences. When traveling, playing this tape will be like having a little bit of home with you.

Cats should be secured on a leash and harness or in a carrier when you transport them from your car to the room. Put some newspaper under the litter box and put the box in the bathroom or in the bathtub so the cat is less likely to track litter on the carpet.

Control who comes into contact with your pet. Allowing too many people to say hello to him may add to his stress (and yours). The stress of traveling can make even the most friendly animal behave abnormally. Watch your pet for signs of stress (yawning, excessive panting, avoiding eye contact) and give him a place to relax quietly if he needs to. Most pets should have no more than one hour of intense meeting and greeting a day.

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Travel Training

Hitting the Open Road with Your Pet

Travel by car is a far better option with your pet than travel by airplane. It is safer and less stressful for your pet. However, there are two major safety concerns for pets in the car: overheating and restraint.

Overheating

Leaving your pet in the car unsupervised is a dangerous proposition. Even in mild temperatures a car can heat up in minutes to a level that can cause heatstroke and even death. Opening the windows and parking in the shade will not prevent this from happening. Dogs and cats do not have good cooling systems because they don't sweat very much through their skin, but rely on panting instead. In warm weather a damp towel draped over the carrier will help to cool the air circulating through the crate while you are in the car with your dog, but it will not do much good in a car that isn't moving.

If you are traveling alone and must leave your pet in the car when you go to the restroom, an option is to leave the car running with the air-conditioning on (in warm weather). You'll need to have two sets of car keys with you so you can leave one in the ignition and lock up with the other.

Be sure to keep your pet secured and away from the car's control panels. If you don't have air-conditioning, leave two windows open for circulation. But -- and this point cannot be made often enough -- if you leave your pet unsupervised in the car, you are taking an enormous risk with his life. If you want to stop and have a day of sightseeing in an area that does not allow pets, contact the local vet or boarding kennels and negotiate a day-rate for boarding.

Restraint

A loose animal in the car is a danger to himself and everyone else in the car. If you make a short stop or are involved in an accident, the animal could be badly injured or killed. In a 30-mile-an-hour collision, an animal becomes a lethal weapon to all the passengers. When loose, an animal is also likely to distract you and may get caught under the accelerator or brake pedal. Make sure your pet is restrained to avoid accidents and injury.

Options for restraint are a carrier, a harness attached to a seatbelt, or a regular leash tied to a stationary part of the car. If you choose to use a crate, make sure it is secured so it won't tip over if you make a sharp turn or stop. Don't allow your pet to keep his head out of the window when you are driving. It's common for animals to need veterinary care as a result of debris becoming embedded in their eyes. You can open the windows a bit to allow fresh air to circulate, but not enough to allow your pet to put his head out. If you want to open your windows fully consider installing window guards or restrain your pet so he can't put his head out.

Car Sickness and Other Concerns

If your pet has a history of severe car sickness, consult your vet, who may recommend medication. A holistic approach might also work well for your pet: many people have had success with Rescue Remedy, which is a mix of flower essences. This option should also be discussed with your vet. Never give your pet any drugs, especially tranquilizers, without your veterinarian's approval.

Loss of Appetite

Many animals suffer from a lack of appetite when they are traveling or under stress in general. It may be due to an existing chronic illness, in which case you should talk to a vet. But in most cases it is simply due to stress caused by travel. If you plan ahead, you can train your pet to eat in the car or in his crate. Feed him in his crate in and out of the car for at least a few weeks prior to your trip. By doing so, you will train your pet to think of his crate as his portable dining room.

Bathroom Routine

When on the road, try to keep as close to your pet's normal routine as possible. When you stop for yourself, always be considerate of your pet and allow him time to stretch and relieve himself as well. How often you should stop depends on your pet's age and temperament. For very young or old animals, stops should be more frequent. The stress of traveling can make your pet more likely to need to eliminate, so allow a few more opportunities than you would at home.

At each rest stop offer your pet some water. Allowing him to exercise for a bit before you head off will make him more likely to sleep. Many rest stops have grassy areas appropriate for pets, but no matter how well trained your pet is, be sure to keep him on a leash at all times. You will find that pit stops will be much quicker if you've taught your dog to eliminate on command.

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Flying High |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Pet Packing

Thoughtful packing on your pet's behalf will help you be prepared for anything that comes up in the course of you and your friend's journey. Below is a list of things that you might want to have on hand.

The Basics

Bedding. Depending on your animal's preferences, pack a bed, blanket, or carpet sample.

Bell. Attach a bell to your pet's collar. This is a great backup safety measure if your pet gets loose in the woods.

Current photo. Taking every imaginable precaution doesn't guarantee your pet won't get lost on your trip. As a safety measure, be sure to have some current photos and a description of your pet in case you need to put up signs.

Flashlight. You might need one for emergencies -- or just for nighttime walks).

Leash, etc. Take a leash and collar or harness with ID tags (an extra set is advisable).

Minifan. A clip-on minifan can come in handy in the hotel room or the car.

Records. Have a copy of your pet's health and vaccination records.

Toys. Sterilized hollow white bones or Kong toys can be stuffed with meat, cheese, kibble, or peanut butter (good for dogs and cats). Pet stores sell ingenious cat toys, though the easiest and cheapest one is a piece of crumpled paper or a square of cardboard tied to a string.

Two Types of ID. Your pet should wear two tags when traveling: one with your permanent address and telephone number and another with a way to contact you on the road. A trick is to staple a card or matchbook from your lodging to your pet's collar.

Consider having your pet tattooed or microchipped in addition to having him wear traditional ID tags. Both processes are humane and effective for tracking pets.

Food and Water
Bowls. Paper plates and a collapsible water bowl are light to carry and easy to dispose of.

Can opener. If you use canned food, don't forget an opener and a spoon.

Dry soup mix. If you usually add a bit of moist food to the dry food but prefer not to take heavy cans with you, take a few packets of mild dry soup mix. Sprinkle a bit over the kibble and mix with warm water to make a tasty gravy.

Food. If it isn't a national brand and you suspect it may be difficult to find while traveling, pack enough for the whole trip. (A sudden change in your animal's food could cause an upset stomach.)

Spray bottle. On the road you may find it convenient to use a spray bottle to squirt water in your pet's mouth.

Water. A container or two of water is especially advisable if your pet has a sensitive stomach and may be affected by drinking new water.

Medicine and First-Aid

• Prescription medicines
• First-aid kit
• Slip-on muzzle
• Honey or hard candy (helps alleviate car sickness; consult your vet first)
• Tweezers and scissors (for removing burs, ticks and other things)
• Cleanup Supplies
• Plastic bags
• Old newspapers
• A lint and hair remover
• Room deodorizer
• Baby wipes or towelettes
• Old cloths or paper towels (for lining the carrier and cleanup)
• Spray bottle of cleaner.
• Grooming tools to keep your pet clean For cats: litter box, litter, plastic bag (to slip over the box), two large rubber bands (to hold bag in place)

  Traveling Safely|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 02/10/2005, 04:22 PM
  | Category: Travel Tips

Traveling with Your Pet

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Andrea Arden, the author of several books on dog training, runs Andrea Arden Dog Training in New York City. "How to Travel With Your Pet" was adapted from Fodor's Fodor's Road Guide USA: Where to Stay with Your Pet.

Taking a pet along on vacation can add to your travel adventures. Aside from the comfort they offer, pets also open the door to meeting new people. Animals are great conversation starters, and animal lovers are everywhere!

In return for companionship and fun, your pet will require much of your time, just as he does at home. In fact, if you elect to include him, your pet will probably be a major focus of your trip. Days must be planned keeping the pet's needs in mind. Often, this means you aren't as free to spend leisurely hours shopping or dining. Instead, you might consider hiring a pet-sitter or finding a good kennel. Sending your dog to a doggie camp or taking a dog sitter along on your trip are other options. If you are planning a "get-away-from-it-all" sort of trip, having your pet in tow may not be a good idea.

While the number of travelers accompanied by animals is growing, some hotels are still cautious to put out the welcome mat. In some areas of the country, finding decent accommodations that accept you and your pet can be a daunting task. Be prepared to spend extra time making travel plans.

Most important, if you don't think your pet will enjoy traveling, it is unfair to both your pet and yourself to make him do so. While most pets do have a remarkable ability to adapt to new situations, those that don't can become highly stressed and in some cases even ill.

Is Your Pet Travel-Ready?

The best candidates for travel are pets that are even-tempered, well behaved, sociable, and in good health. If your pet is anxious, aggressive, or likely to be highly stressed, it is probably in his best interest to make alternative plans, such as finding a place for him to board or having a pet-sitter stay in your home.

Though it is legal to transport an eight-week-old kitten or puppy by plane, it is advisable to wait until your cat or dog is at least 12 weeks old. At eight weeks animals are susceptible to many diseases because their immune systems are not fully developed. It's also important to control the environment of very young puppies and kittens so they don't have experiences that may frighten them. This is difficult to do while traveling.

Some trips are inappropriate for pets because of the environment, time of year, and nature of the journey. If the heat during a summertime trip from New York to Grand Canyon is tough on you, it will be almost unbearable for your dog. As a result, you might spend a lot of time worrying about your dog rather than sightseeing. The same trip made at a different time of year might be more pet-friendly.

You might also want to consider vacations you can take with your dog that will be as much of an adventure for him as for you. Dog camps, seminars, and workshops are a terrific way to have fun with and learn more about your canine companion. Two good sources for information about such trips are the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Camp Gone to the Dogs.

Consider Taking Lassie Along if She's...
Calm
Well-behaved
Friendly
Enjoys new experiences

Leave Her at Home if She's...

Anxious
Noisy or boisterous
Not house-trained
Unfriendly
Fearful

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Keeping Up with the Jones: A London Guide to Bridget's Favorite Spots

By Rachel F. Elson

Fans of London's favorite singleton may have found themselves fancying a trans-Atlantic "minibreak" recently. With Bridget Jones back on the big screen, fans of both Helen Fielding's original novels and their movie adaptations have been getting a big dose of their favorite heroine -- and her fair city. With that in mind, we've put together a weekend sightseeing guide to spots that turn up in Bridget Jones' famous Diaries. We can't promise Mark Darcy -- or even Daniel Cleaver -- will make an appearance; but then, Bridget never could keep track of them either.

You'll most likely arrive at Heathrow. Although your trip will (one hopes) have been less trying than Bridget's own journey from a Thai prison, the best thing to do upon arrival is to check into a posh London hotel. Bridget and her friends would approve of Claridge's, site of Jude's wedding -- where all the guests oohed and aahed and gossiped about the cost of the reception. The friendly, liveried staff at this London landmark, founded in 1812, is not in the least condescending, and the rooms are never less than luxurious.

Day 1

For goodness' sake, don't tax yourself too much on your first morning; Bridget herself is rarely up and about on a weekend before noon. Have a leisurely Bridget-style breakfast -- cappuccino, chocolate croissant, and cigarette -- at any local cafe, then make your way over to Oxford Street for an afternoon of shopping. The traditional shopping district is chock-a-block with stores, from international chains H&M and Zara to British stalwarts like Liberty and the Marks & Spencer flagship. Bridget tries to browse the shops on Oxford Street to outfit herself for her Thai vacation, without much success, but given the wide variety of options, you may do much better.

If you find yourself a bit fatigued, retire to the restaurant at Debenham's, where Bridget often lunches with her mum, for a "jacket potato" or other snack. Debenham's itself, once known as a rather stuffy department store, has put itself on the shopping map with the pretty, affordable Jasper Conran collection, as well as fashion finds from UK talents Ben de Lisi and Lulu Guinness. (Mother Jones also drags Bridget off to a session with the Color Me Beautiful color consultants.

To wander around one of London's more posh districts, hop onto the Central Line at Marble Arch and zip west to Holland Park, site of Mark Darcy's "mansion." (Bridget stipulates that the imposing house is not near Portland Road, to the north, but on the south side of Holland Park Avenue.) Then, after a stroll through Mark's tony neighborhood, double back to the northeast for dinner at 192, where the girls go for their boozy singleton confabs. (The modern eatery takes its name from its address, at 192 Kensington Park Rd.) Just try to make it back to your hotel in better shape than Bridget usually does.

Day 2

In the morning, choose one of London's great landmarks, many of which are concentrated in the neighborhoods of Bloomsbury and the Strand. At the eastern end of the Strand, near the famous Fleet Street, is the Royal Courts of Justice building, the grand site of Bridget's exclusive "Good Afternoon!" coup -- an interview with freed murderess Elena Rossini. (For those who've forgotten: Bridget pulls off the interview, somewhat inexplicably, by having unintentionally stood up the defense attorney the night before.) For the full Bridget experience, stand around outside gaping at the main entrance, then stop at a nearby corner shop for "fags and sweets."

Alternatively, duck over to the south side of the river for a glimpse of Bridget's big-screen flat. The novels never make reference to Bridget's own neighborhood, but exterior shots for the movie adaptation were filmed outside the Globe Pub, on Bedale Street in London's Borough Market district; you may glimpse other familiar backdrops elsewhere in the neighborhood.

Then give up the official sightseeing -- too taxing -- and instead spend your Sunday afternoon wandering the trails at Hampstead Heath. This vast park at London's northern edge sprawls over the hills, providing views of central London. Bridget would certainly skip the Heath's many athletic offerings, but Vile Richard is redeemed in her eyes when she spots him and Jude canoodling on the park lawn.

Take a walk in late afternoon here, where Bridget finds herself "thinking how fantastic London is in the summer with people loosening their ties after work and spreading out shaggily in the sunshine." The Golders Green station on the Underground's Northern Line is near the northwest edge of the sprawling park; the Gospel Oak or Hampstead Heath stations on the Silverlink line from Highbury & Islington underground will put you at the Heath's southern edge.

For a more sedate evening on Sunday, head over to the West End, London's famous theater district. Bridget's parents drag her (and Wellington) to see "Miss Saigon," which played for 10 years at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, but that show's run is long over. Pick up Time Out magazine for details and reviews of current London theater offerings. Things change all the time, but at the moment big-ticket shows include "The Woman in White," the latest offering by Andrew Lloyd Webber; "Jerry Springer the Opera"; and at the Drury Lane, an imported production of "The Producers." Any of them should provide as much drama as Bridget manages to generate in a week -- without leaving your romantic life in shambles. And isn't that the best sort of self-help resolution?

Photo Captions: (1) Photodisc; (2) Corbis; (3) Corbis

Outdoor Oases: 5 Days in Miami

A city with as much to do as Miami is sure to leave you breathless if you don't plan in advance. Here's a suggested tour of the famous and not-so famous sights in Miami.

Day 1. To get into the swing of things, grab a towel and head for the sand in South Beach to catch some rays. Afterward, take a guided or self-guided tour of the Art Deco District to see what all the fuss is about. Keep track of where you've been so you can later revisit the places that piqued your interest. Chances are one place will be the Lincoln Road Mall, where shops and sidewalk cafes spread for several blocks along a pedestrian mall. Take time to hit Collins Avenue between 6th and 8th streets for some traditional shopping. Have a quiet dinner at one of the grand hotels of Collins Avenue (the Delano or the National), and complete the night with a drink or two at the sidewalk cafes of happening Ocean Drive.

Day 2. Follow the first day's itinerary and on Day Two reward yourself for being smart enough to take a vacation. Swing through Little Havana for a taste of Miami's Cuban culture (and to snag a stogie). At the Venetian Pool in Coral Gables, lay out a towel, and swab on the sunscreen. If you prefer to do something, head to the Gables's incredible Fairchild Tropical Garden. Or you might want to check out the interactive Parrot Jungle Gardens, especially if you have children in tow. After a dip or a look at the flora, try one of the area's fine restaurants for lunch. In the afternoon, take in some window-shopping along Miracle Mile and then hop in the car to get lost in the Coral Gable neighborhoods, working your way over to the grand Biltmore Hotel. That evening, cruise over to Coconut Grove. At night, the village is jumping from CocoWalk along Main Highway to the Taurus. Movie theaters, rowdy bars, smoky dives, and the traditional tourist fare of chain restaurants are at your service.

Day 3. Today, sleep in and then pamper yourself with a trip to the beaches of Key Biscayne. Just before the William T. Powell bridge, pull off to take windsurfing lessons or just park and enjoy the tranquillity of this laid-back slice of Miami. Key Biscayne is one very large beach, and you can keep driving to reach Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area, where you'll find more beaches and tackle stores; pick up gear for pier fishing. A fleet of deep-sea charters is moored at Crandon Marina for more adventurous sport fishing. Keep in mind the half-day charters don't come cheap, but if this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip, anchors aweigh! Whether you lounge on the shore or sail on the sea, that evening you can return to your favorite nightspot in South Beach, Coconut Grove, or Coral Gables.

Day 4. Follow the suggested three-day itinerary and on Day Four use the morning to visit South Miami's Italian Renaissance--style villa Vizcaya Museum and Gardens. Afterward, head to burgeoning Brickell Village for lunch; it's a relaxed area with shops and restaurants between the Miami River and downtown. If you're here on the right evening, take in a performance at the ornate Gusman Theatre. Even if the theater's dark, the bayfront should still be going strong. Join the throng over at Bayside Marketplace, or the nightspots at the dazzling high-tech American Airlines Arena. Another option is to board a gambling cruise and live the high life at sea.

On your final day, head north on Collins Avenue to explore monolithic tourist hotels such as the Fontainebleau Hilton and Eden Roc. Each has more restaurants, pools, and activities than many American towns. From here, you're more than halfway to Bal Harbour, whose shops---Chanel, Tiffany & Co., Armani, Dolce & Gabbana---are simply among the finest in the world. That evening, return to South Beach for dinner and a walk up Washington Avenue, down Collins and back up Ocean Drive to return to your favorite deco hotels. Since you plan to call in sick when you get home, pick a nightclub and party into the morning.

Click here for more Miami sights, dining, and lodging information.

Photo Credit: Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau

First-Rate Second City: 5 Days in Chicago

Some cities are huge but don't feel big because they're so spread out, like Los Angeles or Las Vegas. But Chicago is big in every sense of the word. To get a feel for its history and culture, you'd have to spend years here just to scratch the surface. But if time is limited, here's a quick hits tour of the best of Chicago.

Day 1. Start at the top. Hit the heights of the John Hancock Center or the Sears Tower Skydeck for a grand view of the city and the lake. Then walk to Michigan Avenue and Adams Street for a morning of culture at the Art Institute. Either grab a bite at one of the museum's eateries or stroll back west for lunch at the venerable Berghoff Restaurant. Then wander north to the Michigan Avenue Bridge, where you can pick up a boat tour of the Chicago River. Enjoy the architecture as you float by, resting your museum-weary feet.

Day 2. On your second day, head for Chicago's museum campus for a full day of exploring land, sea, and sky. Start with the dinosaurs, ancient Egyptians, and other wonders at the Field Museum. Then stroll over to the Shedd Aquarium and Oceanarium, where you can see marine mammals and exotic water dwellers. Gaze at the lake while lunching at the Oceanarium's restaurant; then fix your eyes heavenward on the Adler Planetarium's Sky Show. If the weather's nice, take time to stroll along the lakefront outside the Adler---it has one of the loveliest skyline views in the city. For dinner, head north to Pizzeria Uno or Pizzeria Due for authentic Chicago-style pizza. Then amble over to the House of Blues for some after-dinner entertainment.

Day 3. On day three, begin with a long walk (or run) along the lakefront. Or rent a bike and watch the waves on wheels. Then catch an El train north to Wrigley Field for a little Cubs baseball; grab a dog at the seventh-inning stretch. Afterward, soak up a little beer and atmosphere at one of the local sports bars. Then head back to River North for dinner at one of the restaurants bearing the name of a past or present Chicago sports luminary: Harry Caray's or Mike Ditka's Restaurant. Finish up with a night at the theater---check out a performance at the Goodman Theatre or the Steppenwolf.

Day 4. On day four, spend the morning at the free Lincoln Park Zoo and Conservatory. Then, in the afternoon, stroll through the park to the Chicago Historical Society for an intriguing look at Chicago's yesterdays. If you'd like to stay in Lincoln Park for dinner, you'll have plenty of terrific restaurants to choose from. Then head for Second City, home of the famous local comedy troupe.

Day 5. Finally, on day five, grab your bankroll and stroll the Mag Mile in search of great buys and souvenirs of Chicago. Walking north from around the Michigan Avenue Bridge, window-shop your way along the many upscale stores. (Dedicated shoppers will want to detour to State Street for a walk through the landmark Marshall Field's.) If you need a culture buzz, check out the Museum of Contemporary Art, both in the neighborhood. Hang a left on Oak Street for the most elite boutiques. If shopping's not your bag, head out early in the day to the suburb of Oak Park to see the exceptional grouping of Prairie School buildings, including architect Frank Lloyd Wright's home and studio. After making that tough last-night restaurant choice, consider a nightcap at the Signature Room at the 95th bar at the top of the John Hancock Center---it's a heady place to kiss the city good-bye.

Click here for more Chicago sights, dining, and lodging information

Photo Credit: Erin Nedell

Labyrinth of the Senses: 5 Days in Paris

The time you spend in this endlessly resonant city will remain a lifelong reference point. Over and over, as in a reverie, all your senses will be enlivened---by the sting in the nostril of a freshly lighted Gitane cigarette, the rippling of lights on the misty Seine, the lavender scent of the Tuileries, the waves battering the prow of the Medusa in Gericault's epic canvas at the Louvre. This is Paris. A visit to Paris is never quite as simple as a quick look at a few landmarks. Each neighborhood has its own treasures, so we've prepared an itinerary to help guide you through this luxe labyrinth of the senses.

Day 1. Start in Paris's chronological heart, on Ile de la Cite. Climb up Notre-Dame's tower for a panoramic city view; then head over to neighboring Ile St-Louis to wander the atmospheric streets and drink in the back view of the mighty cathedral. Go back to Ile de la Cite to see the stunning stained glass in Sainte-Chapelle. For a Seine-level view of the city, go to place du Pont Neuf at the far end of the island to catch the Vedettes du Pont Neuf boat tour. Cross the Pont au Change to the Chatelet metro station to catch Line 1 to the Champs-Elysees; if you'd like to walk most of the broad avenue, get off at the Franklin D. Roosevelt stop.

If not, get off at George V (near the top) or Charles de Gaulle Etoile (by the roundabout) and head to the Arc de Triomphe. From the top of the arch there's a great view of the "star" of avenues. If platinum-card shopping is on your list, head to avenue Montaigne, which branches off the Champs. Otherwise, hop back on the metro at the Charles de Gaulle Etoile station and take Line 6 to the Champs de Mars Tour Eiffel station. The Eiffel Tower is especially romantic at twilight or after dark, when the tower is illuminated and the city view from the top becomes a sea of twinkling lights. Be here on the hour to see the extra-bright light display.

Day 2. It's time to brave the Louvre; start early to avoid the worst of the crowds. After lunch dip into the Tuileries park, then double back on rue de Rivoli and stroll through the arcades and garden of the Palais Royal. Next take rue St-Honore west, window-shopping on your way past the place Vendome, toward the Madeleine church. Catch the metro's Line 12 at the Madeleine stop and zip north to the Abbesses station. Take the elevator up to ground level, step out from underneath the Art Nouveau canopy, and you'll be in Montmartre---a funky, lively neighborhood that'll clear away any remaining museum fatigue. Explore the winding, hilly streets, catch the city view from the plaza in front of the Sacre-Coeur Basilica, and settle into an amber-lighted bistro or cafe. Note: This is fine any day but Tuesday, when the Louvre is closed. Many shops are closed Sunday.

Day 3. Start the morning admiring the Impressionists in the Musee d'Orsay (photo right). In the afternoon, head west along the quais, passing the Assemblee Nationale (the French parliament), to the Pont Alexandre-III, an ornate Belle Epoque bridge. Above you gleams the dome of the Eglise du Dome in the Hotel des Invalides; this is where Napoleon's buried (in half-a-dozen coffins). From the Invalides it's just a short walk to the Musee Rodin, where you can pair sculpture viewing with time in the beautiful gardens. Continue east toward the enormous church of St-Sulpice. To wind down, take a walk (or claim a chair) in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Or from place St-Sulpice you can take metro Line 4 a few stops into Montparnasse. Note: This won't work on Monday, when the Musee d'Orsay and the Musee Rodin are closed.

Day 4. Devote the morning to the Quartier Latin, wandering the cobblestone streets, rifling through the offerings of the bouquinistes (the open-air book vendors by the Seine), and peeking into bookstores and churches. Visit the Musee National du Moyen-Age to see the unicorn tapestries, pay your respects to the great at the Pantheon, then loop back toward the Seine to see the dynamic facade of the Institut du Monde Arabe (also a good place to stop for tea). Take the pont de la Tournelle to cut across the Ile St-Louis to the Rive Droite and Marais neighborhood. Here you'll find a cluster of terrific museums (the Picasso Museum, the Carnavalet, in particular), evocative architecture, and a buzzing street scene. The elegant place des Vosges is a good place to relax. If modern art is your thing, go farther west to the Centre Pompidou. Note: Closings make this a problem on Monday (Institut du Monde Arabe, Musee Carnavalet) and Tuesday (Musee National du Moyen-Age, Centre Pompidou, Musee Picasso).

Day 5. To get a sense of the splendor in which French royalty lived, spend most of the day visiting Versailles.

Click here for more Paris sights, dining, and lodging details.

Photo Credit: (top) Photo Disc; (bottom) Corbis

What to Do if You Lose Your Photo ID, and More

By Dave Downing

It's the headache you'll remember the rest of your life: You've flown somewhere for business or pleasure, but midway through your trip, your identification gets lost or stolen. What do you do?

To some extent, the answer depends on whether you are in Berkeley or Bucharest. But no matter where you are, it is important to take action the moment you discover your ID is missing, whether it's your driver's license or your passport, because it could take some time to get the matter straightened out.

What follows are specific instructions and tips regarding both scenarios. Print this out and take it with you, or bookmark this column for future reference. It's good information to have on hand -- just pray you never have to use it.

If You Lose Your ID Abroad

Losing your ID while traveling outside the country presents a completely different set of issues and problems than you'd face if you lost it within the confines of the United States. Follow these steps to make recovery as painless as possible.

Find the nearest consulate or embassy. Once you learn your passport is missing, immediately contact the nearest consulate or embassy. (The Department of State's Web site has a comprehensive list.)

Know the hotline numbers. If you don't have the list or can't get to the consulate, contact the Department of State's Overseas Citizens Service. From outside the U.S., dial 1-317-472-2328. If you are in the U.S. trying to assist a family member who is traveling abroad, call 1-888-407-4747 toll free for assistance.

Prove your identity. During an interview with a consular officer you will be asked to provide basic personal info, as well as your passport number and date and place of issue, if possible. You will need to supply the names of identifying witnesses at home and abroad; if you are traveling with others, they can be asked to vouch for your identity. In certain circumstances, you might need to have someone back home fax copies of identifying documents, such as a birth certificate, to the consulate. For this reason, it is a good idea to leave copies of these documents with family or friends. If there are no unusual circumstances, this part of the process goes very quickly.

Reapply. Once your identity has been verified, you'll have to fill out a new passport application, as well as an affidavit regarding the loss/theft of your old passport. If you believe your passport was stolen, you might have to file a local police report.

Pay the fee. Your replacement passport will cost at least $85 (an additional $60 expediting fee may be assessed as well), but it will be valid for the usual 10 years. If you lost your credit cards and cash along with your passport and have no way to pay, you'll be issued a temporary passport for free just to get you home.

Accept a conditional passport. If the Department of State has lingering doubts as to your identity but is satisfied enough to let you back into the country, they'll issue you a conditional passport. Once you get home and can provide them with the proper documentation, you can have the passport validated for the full 10 years.

Bottom line: Always carry a photocopy of your passport. Always. It's the next best thing to having your actual passport. But don't carry it with your passport or with any other travel documents -- put it at the bottom of your suitcase and leave it there. But even that might get misplaced, so as a backup consider scanning your passport and downloading the file onto your laptop or other digital storage device, such as an Apple iPod. If you don't travel with a laptop or an iPod, email the scanned image to yourself (both as an attachment and inserted into the body of the email) and let it sit in your inbox unopened. Either way, you'll be able to print out a copy of your passport from your hotel's business center, an internet café, or any other location that has Web access and a printer. (Use the same trick for your driver's license when traveling domestically.) For more on what to expect if you've lost your passport, visit the Department of State's Web site.

If You Lose Your ID While Traveling in the U.S.

If you are an American citizen and your state-issued driver's license or photo ID card is lost or stolen while you are in the U.S., the first thing you should do is file a local police report. Both the U.S. Transportation Security Administration and airline representatives stress the importance of this step, which creates a paper trail and pinpoints the loss at a specific time and place.

This is where the definite advice ends, however. The TSA doesn't address the issue of lost IDs on its Web site, and agency officials that I spoke with claimed it was up to the airlines whether to let passengers without IDs fly -- since the airlines are the ones who issue boarding passes. Airline representatives, meanwhile, wouldn't confirm that it is, in fact, their decision, and although they did acknowledge that they have "security measures in place to deal with such an eventuality," they wouldn't elaborate further.

After conversations with several airline reps, it became apparent that lost IDs are handled on a case-by-case basis and that several combinations of conditions can get you on board your flight without proper identification. There are no hard and fast rules, although all the reps agreed on one point: you'll need to show up at the airport extra early to allow enough time for a security interview. (Moreover, since this is your error and not theirs, if you miss your flight you'll have to pay the change fee and the difference in airfare for a later flight.)

Though no single issue is likely to make or break your case, here are some of the considerations that airline personnel will use to determine whether to let you fly.

Type of ticket. To airline security agents, the return segment of a round-trip ticket will be reasonably solid evidence that you had your ID when you flew to the destination. Problems might arise if you have a one-way ticket or are using the first half of a round-trip ticket, neither of which would prove that you ever had an ID. (One-way tickets in particular are likely to be red flags to security personnel.)

Traveling companions. If someone with your last name is traveling with you -- especially if you have kids in tow -- your chances of getting on board increase dramatically. No airline wants the PR headache of splitting up a family over a misplaced driver's license. A wallet-worn family portrait will help establish your identity too.

Type of payment used. A credit card purchase can be traced by the airline, if need be, to reinforce your identity claim. If you used any other form of payment -- or if your ticket was purchased for you by someone else -- you may have more trouble making your case.

Unofficial identifiers. If you lost your license or passport only (rather than your entire wallet or purse), the other contents of your wallet -- worn credit cards, library cards, business cards, family photos, etc. -- can go a long way toward proving you are who you say you are. These are not official documents, of course, but they carry weight in determining your identity.

Demeanor. Airline security personnel deal with fliers all day every day and are quick to pick up on suspicious behavior. They don't elaborate on what constitutes suspicious behavior, other than to say that they "know it when they see it." Regardless, try to keep your cool.

Bottom line: Unless you have some extraordinary circumstance -- such as an outstanding arrest warrant -- you'll likely make your domestic flight without your ID. Just be sure to give yourself plenty of time and be prepared for extra screening procedures and personal questions. Also, take a minute to pack copies of your license (both sides), birth certificate, passport, or social security card -- they may come in handy.

Do You Even Need a Photo ID to Fly?

Now that we have that settled, allow me to confuse the issue altogether.

True or false: If you are traveling on a domestic flight in the U.S., you must have government-issued photo ID in order to pass through a TSA checkpoint.

Answer: False.

According to the TSA's own Web site, you can board any commercial flight with no photo ID at all as long as you have "two forms of non-photo identification, one of which must have been issued by a state or federal agency." That means you can board a commercial flight with an insurance card and a social security card or a birth certificate (although you may want to print out that TSA page, just in case you run into trouble at check-in). All the talk about the necessity of having "photo identification" is just that: talk.

Which leads to the next question: what is the purpose of the mandatory-ID craze that has swept the industry since 9/11? Birth certificates are not standardized and, therefore, are easy to fake, and a Social Security card merely has a name and a number on it.

The truth of the matter is that some of the new security measures implemented by the TSA are cosmetic at best; they are designed to make us feel safer when we fly, but do not, in fact, make us any safer. It's not fun to point out, but every one of the 9/11 hijackers had valid IDs, and some of their names were even listed on FBI watch lists. I'm not suggesting that we ditch checking IDs altogether -- just that we do a better job of grounding those who would do us harm.

New Again at the Modern

By Christopher Culwell

New Yorkers breathed a sigh of relief late last year when the Museum of Modern Art returned to its Fifty-Third Street digs after a two-year-long renovation and expansion that relocated the museum temporarily to Long Island City, Queens.

As building makeovers go, this one was on a grand scale. The museum's press office puts the price tag of the renovation at $425 million, but that figure is probably a conservative estimate. Whatever the price, one thing is certain: there isn't a square inch of the Modern that hasn't in some way been altered or changed. Yet for such an extensive overhaul, architect Yoshio Taniguchi's design doesn't call undue attention to itself or upstage the art inside.

That's nothing to sneer at considering the extent to which 11 West Fifty-Third Street has changed. That once-claustrophobic lobby space has been expanded to a generous 12,400 square feet. In addition to the Fifty-Third Street entrance, there is now an entrance on Fifty-Fourth Street. Overall exhibition space has been increased from 85,000 to 125,000 square feet, and those once-gloomy galleries are now organized around a towering atrium that sheds natural light throughout the interior spaces.

Perhaps the best news is that the second floor is now a showcase for contemporary art. The one-block-wide space, with 22-foot-high ceilings, a removable wall, reinforced floors, and super-size entryways, will easily hold all those hard-to-maneuver installations and Serra-size sculptures that have proved so intractable in the past. Among the works to be displayed here are an installation by Rachel Whiteread and photos by Jeff Wall and Andreas Gursky. The second floor will also house the museum's first media gallery, designed specifically for moving-image and sound works. Foodies and shoppers can rejoice as the new MoMA has three retail shops, a "fine dining" restaurant called The Modern, and a casual restaurant and bar.

But what about that all-important face on Fifty-Third Street? Taniguchi's facade of glass, black granite and aluminum panels has all the essential elements of today's chic, but as the design carefully balances Philip Johnson's 1960s addition and Cesar Pelli's 1980s museum tower, the overall statement is more syncretic than idiosyncratic, and perhaps that's enough.

The building isn't the only thing about MoMA that has expanded---the cost of admission is now a mind-blowing $20. Grousing over the new admission started months before the November opening, and it's sure to continue well into the future, especially when other New York museums follow suit and raise their admissions. The only positive fallout from such an epidemic of inflation is that MoMA will look like the art world's Promised Land next to some of New York's dowdier institutions. Indeed, look what $20 gets you at the new Modern: six floors of art in a pristine environment, access to films and videos (in a soundproofed environment), a bookstore with a place to sit and read, a refurbished sculpture garden, two restaurants, and a bar where you can down a pint before you make the final round of your favorite works. Best of all---you can stay all day if you want. Enjoy it while it lasts. The price of admission is sure to rise again next year.

Click here for MoMA's exhibition calendar.

New York: Liquid View

New York probably has more penthouse bars than any other city in the world. A60, Plunge, Rare View, Pen Top Bar and Lounge, Top of the Tower---these are just a few of our favorites. The new kid on the block is Ava Lounge, atop the Dream Hotel at 210 West 55th Street. This spacious, bi-level lounge, popular with publishing types, lawyers, models, and the occasional tourist, has a retro-chic look, with two-tone banquettes and warm wood paneling, all of it recalling the sort of super-sophisticated haunt that Ava Gardner---the canteen's namesake---might have frequented back in the day. The music, stylishly downbeat, hovers politely at the edge of one's consciousness, allowing for conversation, but this is clearly a swirl-your-drink-and-pose crowd, so leave the shop talk at the office. And the view, you ask? It's fantastic, taking in Times Square, Columbus Circle, and the Hudson River in one well-choreographed turn of the head. ---Chris Culwell

Click here for more info on sky-high barhopping in Manhattan.

Eating Your Way Through Sicily

By Robin Goldstein

Itinerary: Catania, Siracusa, Ortygia, Iblea, Agrigento, Marsala, Palermo

Sicilian cuisine is one of the oldest in existence, going back to Siracusan cooking competitions in 600 bc. The Sicilians even have a reasonable claim to the invention of pasta---maccheroni (long, thin pasta tubes) may well be today's purest survivor of the original. Today's cuisine represents Sicily's unique cultural mix, imaginatively combining fish, fruits, vegetables, and nuts with Arab and North African ingredients such as cus cus (couscous). This itinerary will take you on a culinary tour of the island.

Catania
Begin by flying into the Catania's Aeroporto Fontanarossa, which is well connected to Rome and Milan. This itinerary requires renting a car, which is less stressful than you might think---most roads are easy and scenic. From the airport, head straight into the city of Catania, where you'll spend your first night or two. Sicily's second city and home to its most prestigious university, Catania is a vibrant study in urban renewal, with many of its black volcanic stone buildings newly scrubbed and Piazza del Duomo now closed to traffic. The main thoroughfare, Via Etnea, hosts one of Italy's most vibrant passeggiate (evening promenades) nightly.

The world's first ice cream is said to have been granita made by the Romans from the snow on the slopes of Etna (photo right), which looms over Catania. The locals still know that there are fewer sweet things more satisfying in summer than a granita di caffe or granita di mandorla (almond slush) with a brioche for dipping. But Catania's famous taste for sweets doesn't end there. Pasta di mandorla, a soft cookie made from almonds and honey, is a delicious showcase for the famous Sicilian bitter almond, which features in many of the different varieties of dolci at the famous confectionery I Dolci della Nonna Vincenza (Piazza S. Placido 7, 095/7151844, www.dolcinonnavincenza.it), where you can have things wrapped for travel or even shipped abroad. And nowhere do the famous Sicilian cannoli (photo below) get any better than in Catania.

Siracusa
Don't miss the spectacularly chaotic and wonderful fish market in the center of the city---many of the sea creatures are still wriggling---before getting on the road and heading south for a couple of hours on the S114, which is a manageable two-to-four-lane regional highway. It will take you about two hours to get to Siracusa, whose island on an inlet of the Ionian sea, Ortygia, is one of Italy's most enchanting old towns and fishing ports. Siracusa is most famous for its stunningly preserved Greek theater that once saw Aeschylus's premieres and a nearby Roman arena that witnessed more base forms of entertainment.

Stay two to three nights in Siracusa, which is for many visitors the highlight of a Sicilian tour, and whose impeccably fresh pesce spada (swordfish) you can glimpse in a more natural form at the morning fish market near Ortygia's bridge to the mainland. Spada, as they like to call it, is best not grilled, but rather marinated (marinato). Don Camillo, in the heart of Ortygia (Via Maestranza 96, 0931/67133), makes a dish of pennette alla pesce spada with pieces of swordfish, raisins, tomatoes, pine nuts, and basil, touched by the sweetness of Marsala wine. Don Camillo also showcases ricci (raw sea urchin), another coastline specialty---if you're a sushi lover, think uni.

Iblea
From Siracusa, continue south on the S115 around the southeastern tip of Sicily. You will come into Iblea, a hot, sleepy, time-frozen region whose low-lying stone walls are surreally evocative of the English countryside. Here your destination is Ragusa, where you'll spend one night. Ragusa's old town, Ibla, is a tumble of buildings with narrow lanes perched on a hilltop and suspended between a deep ravine and a sloping valley.

Iblea is also known for its bright, cherry-red wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, made from Frappato grapes, and for Ragusano DOP, a doughy, flavorful version of cacciocavallo, an uncooked cow's milk cheese that is made by hand. It can be eaten young, when it's mild and delicate, or aged, when it's sharper and more often grated. Don't pass up the chance for an alta cucina meal at Duomo, in Ibla (Via Capitano Bocchieri 31, 0932/651265, www.ristoranteduomo.it), where you might find flights of fancy like spaghetti with anchovy tartare, bottarga di tonno (cured tuna roe), and carrot juice.

Agrigento
The next day, get back on the coastal S115 and continue westward three or four scenic hours to Agrigento, whose Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) is studded with some of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence, and whose almond tradition is legendary. (If you want real local food, keep your restaurantgoing to the city above, not the valley below.)

If you time things right, you can time your arrival in Agrigento to the first week of February (in 2005, it's Feb. 3--13) for the Mandorlo in Fiore (0922/401352), an annual celebration of the blooming of the valley's picturesque almond blossoms and flowers. The temples are illuminated by light displays, and faraway folk artists flock into town.

As you peer into glass display counters all over Sicily, you'll quickly notice that almonds aren't just used in cookies and in granite. At Agrigento's festival and everywhere else, you'll encounter dozens of spookily realistic molded marzipan-sculpture sweets, known as pasta reale, fashioned to look like anything but almonds. You'll see pasta reale apples, oranges, cherries, and---bizarrely enough---hamburgers and prosciutto. To celebrate Easter, the Sicilians even fashion the marzipan into baby lambs.

As you get back on the road and head west, still along the coastal S115, toward your next stop, Marsala, don't forget that bar snacks are in rare form in Sicily. Stop for a coffee anywhere in Sicily---even along the coastal road---and you'll be overwhelmed by an embarrassment of little riches, like fried sweet or savory dough pockets stuffed with ricotta. Every town has its own trademark snack, but they all have arancini, literally "little oranges," which are actually deep-fried risotto balls, one of Sicily's trademark snack foods.

Planeta
Another rare treat along the coastal route between Agrigento and Marsala is Planeta, a child prodigy of the Sicilian wine industry. Long neglected, Sicilian reds and whites are some of the most up-and-coming in the wine world, but still the bargains of Italy. The earthy Nero d'Avola grape bolsters many of Sicily's traditionally sunny, expansive reds, but Planeta made its name by brashly planting so-called "international" varietals like Syrah and Chardonnay. Among Planeta's latest creations is a delicious dessert wine, Moscato di Noto. You can get a free tour of one of their countryside facilities, Cantina dell'Ulmo, by appointment only, Mon.-Fri. 9-3 (by fax 091/6124335 or e-mail planeta@planeta.it; www.planeta.it). When you hit Menfi, about an hour and a half from Agrigento, get off on the SS624 heading north toward Palermo. At km 66, take the exit for the town of Sambuca di Sicilia (the road is called SP70). In Sambuca, take a right through town on Via Berlinguer, take another right immediately after the Gramsci Elementary School, and follow signs to "Azienda Agricola Planeta." After the visit, come back the same way and get back on the SS115 toward Mazara del Vallo.

Marsala
Marsala, another hour or so to the west along that road, is next. It's a sleepy town with an ancient Punic warship in its archeological museum and an amazing wine tradition that spans hundreds of years. You may encounter marsala wine more often in a dish of sauteed chicken or veal than you do as a after-dinner drink, but here, this fortified wine is taken very seriously. You can stop at any of the purveyors that dot the town's streets to taste and buy.

Also in downtown Marsala is another star Sicilian winery, Donnafugata (Via Lipari 18, 0923/724200, www.donnafugata.it). Their cantina is open for free tours by appointment only, Mon.--Sat. 9 to 4, and they end with a tasting. Don't miss the delicious red Mille e Una Notte, and Donnafugata's version of the famous Passito di Pantelleria, a sweet dessert wine, with intense notes of apricot, made partly from raisins on Pantelleria, an island off Sicily's southwestern coast.

Palermo
Stay in Marsala for one night, perhaps trying cus cus at one of the city's Arab-influenced restaurants (this is the closest part of Sicily to North Africa), before taking the S188 out to the A29 highway and concluding your trip in Sicily's illustrious capital city, Palermo, where you'll spend your final two to three nights. There, you'll enjoy some of the freshest seafood in all of Italy. A visit to the Vucciria, the city's famously crazy street market, will reveal it in the flesh.

But also take the chance here to sample the island's most traditional home-cooked specialties. Pasta con le sarde (an emblematic dish that goes back to the Saracen conquerors, with fresh sardines, olive oil, raisins, pine nuts, and wild fennel) is different at every restaurant. Firm white fish such as orata (sea bream), simply grilled and served with lemon and olive oil, are reliable staples as secondi piatti almost anywhere in town. And nothing is more famous in Palermo, or in Sicily as a whole, than spaghetti alla Norma (with a sauce of tomato, fried eggplant, ricotta, and basil).

More unusual but equally delectable is the local specialty, pani ca' meusa
(a squishy sandwich of calf's spleen boiled, sliced, and fried, with grated cacciocavallo cheese and salt). Nowhere is it better, and nowhere have they been making it longer, than at Antica Focacceria San Francesco (Via Paternostro 57, 091/320264), a neighborhood bakery with early 20th-century wooden cabinets, marble-top tables, and cast-iron ovens.

Coffee, gelato, and bar snacks are also excellent in Palermo, and the best way to sample them is while strolling around in the grand, teeming mass of humanity in the area near the Teatro Politeama at evening passeggiata time (7--9pm). And then there's the traditional dessert, the cassata siciliana, a rich chilled sponge cake with sheep's ricotta and candied fruit. Sicilian ricotta is the world's best, and this is the standby dessert at many Palermitan restaurants---at Easter or any time of year. You shouldn't miss it while you're in Sicily's capital city.

If you have the appetite for one more foodie detour, Il Mulinazzo (SS121, Loc. Bolognetta Nord, Villafrati, 091/8724870) is a 45-minute drive from Palermo on the state road toward Agrigento. It is easily worth the trip for the chance to dine at what is currently, by consensus, Sicily's top restaurant. Chef Nino Graziano might playfully pair macco (fava bean puree, a peasant staple) with scampi (the sweet shellfish that's the delicacy of the rich) along with ricotta, speck (like bacon), and fried basil leaves. Coming from Palermo, the restaurant is on the right side of SS121 after 17 km, just after a car dealership.

When all is said and eaten, drive out to the airport (Falcone-Borsellino, 45 minutes to the west on the autostrada) and fly out of Palermo, leaving your car there; although rental cars are expensive, one-way drop-off fees are fairly reasonable in Italy, and it will save you a good bit of driving. After all, by now, you are probably quite full and need a nap.

Click here for additional sights, dining, and lodging info for this region.

Photo Credits: (top) Corbis; (bottom) Robin Goldstein

Secret Discount Codes and "Distressed Passenger" Hotel Deals

By Dave Downing

Hot Tip 1: Secret Discount Codes -- for Free!

Before purchasing any travel-related product or service, take a minute to search for an online promotional code, and you could net significant savings -- for free.

This is how it works: Many e-commerce sites have a field that allows customers to enter a promotional code, also known as a coupon code. Generally, these discounts are given to certain customers by companies that refer them to a particular Web site. For example, a rental-car agency might be a corporate partner of a hotel chain, so when a potential guest clicks from the hotel's Web site to book a rental car, a promotional code is automatically entered into the appropriate field of the rental-car company's Web site (most customers aren't even aware that a code has been entered).

There are many sites dedicated to tracking and publishing lists of these codes -- including Keycode.com, Pricezilla.com, and Shoppersresource.com -- but the most comprehensive site is Edealinfo.com. Tabs at the top of the home page allow you to search for a code by either category or business name, and users are encouraged to leave feedback about the deals offered and to share other codes. Since these codes expire and new ones are added every day, it pays to check frequently or sign up for the mailing list.

If you find an appropriate code (usually a combination of two to five letters and numbers) simply enter it into the correct box on the Web site where you are doing business, and you'll receive a discount.

Among the deals I found recently with just a few minutes of searching: five percent off at Thrifty Car Rental, $10 off an airline ticket from Priceline.com, and $4 a day off a mid-size Budget car rental. Hint: Codes that have expiration dates tend to yield greater discounts than undated or open-ended deals.

This practice might sound shady, but it's the online version of store coupons -- if a coupon is valid, the retailer doesn't question where the customer got it. And shopaholics rejoice: these codes aren't limited to travel-related retail. Rather, you can find discounts on everything from home electronics and auto parts to baby clothes and pet supplies.

Hot Tip 2: X-Ray Scanners Prompt Kodak Alert

If you are one of those old-school travelers who entrust vacation memories to a traditional film camera rather than a digital camera, listen up: the new scanners being used by the TSA to examine checked baggage can ruin your film in a single scan.

There are two types of new scanners -- one that, like a CAT scan, uses high-dose X-rays on certain areas of your bag only, and another that uses high-dose X-rays over the entire bag -- but both can damage your undeveloped film. Checked baggage used to be searched randomly, but security enhancements implemented after 9/11 mean that all checked bags are now exposed to these high-dose scans at U.S. airports. (Some European airports now use these machines, too.)

The Kodak company has issued an alert on its Web site warning people about the scanner damage, complete with before-and-after comparisons of photos from film that had been scanned. The effects of even just one inspection include grainy images and ghostly green bands of light -- and after five scans, there's virtually nothing left of the image (which in this case is a creepy, malnourished-looking mannequin) at all.

Furthermore, while the scanners used for carry-on baggage are still considered safe for most undeveloped film, Kodak scientists warn of damage to film of any speed that is subjected to X-ray inspection more than 5 times (the effect is cumulative). If you are traveling to multiple destinations, make sure you request hand inspection of your film. Other film that should be hand inspected every time: film with an ISO speed or exposure index of 400 or higher; motion-picture film; extra-sensitive X-ray or scientific film; and film that will undergo any special processing, such as push-processing.

If all this isn't enough to get you to consider buying that digital camera, consider this: According to Kodak and other digital camera manufacturers, even the most powerful X-ray scanners have no effect at all on the devices used to store digital photos.

Hot Tip 3: Stranded? Ask for "Distressed Passenger" Hotel Rates

Picture this: You're headed home after a vacation, and you arrive at the airport just in time to see your plane pull away from the gate. It's the last flight out for the night, and you've already turned in your rental car, so to save money you check into a bland, budget-minded airport-row hotel.

Or maybe not.

Try this instead: Call a more luxurious hotel, describe your situation, and ask if they have a "distressed passenger" rate. I found myself in this situation recently and was informed by a sympathetic front-desk clerk that I qualified for this special, unadvertised rate. All I needed was proof that I missed my flight (a printout of your itinerary will suffice), and I was on my way, catching the free hotel shuttle from the airport. For about the price of dorm-style accommodations overlooking an airport access road, I got a double-bed room at the Hyatt with a balcony overlooking Tampa Bay. Once I got to my room I did some online research and found out that the rate I received beat even the best deal I could find on the Web -- by $20.

Even if the hotel has no official distressed-passenger policy, you might be able to negotiate a lower rate if the hotel has rooms available. Or you may be able to take advantage of the deeply discounted rates that airlines get when they accommodate stranded fliers -- just request that your airline arrange a "passenger-pay" overnight at a hotel with which the airline does business.

Travel Pro Uncovers Web's Best Room Rates, Exposes "Waterfront" Hotel Scam

By Dave Downing

Hot Tip 1: Always Check Hotel Web Sites When Booking a Room

Several times in the past few months I've found better room prices on the Web sites of individual hotels than on the major travel-booking Web sites.

For example, in August the best rate I could find on the booking sites for a room at a Philadelphia boutique hotel was $155. The same day, the hotel's own site had a deal for an even larger room for $120.

The same scenario repeated itself in New York in September. Rooms at a budget hotel near Lincoln Center were going for $149 a night at two major discount sites, but the hotel's site had rooms for $119 -- and that rate included a free Continental breakfast not offered with the more expensive rate.

What's going on here?

According to industry estimates, an average of 1.5 million hotel rooms go unoccupied every night. Knowing this, consolidators buy up empty hotel rooms at reduced prices, mark them up to make a profit, and then offer them for sale on the Web.

But hoteliers are starting to realize that they can use their own sites to offer last-minute discounts, and because the hotel isn't paying the middleman, it can sometimes afford to offer a higher discount than the travel sites. Another bonus of dealing directly with the hotel is that in most cases you have more options should you need to cancel or change your reservation than you would if you'd purchased from the major sites, most of whom have "use it or lose it" policies that don't allow changes or refunds.

Bottom line: There are plenty of times when major and lesser-known discount sites can beat any given hotel's price, but it's worth your while to check the hotel's own Web site for special deals before you book.

Hot Tip 2: Beware the "Waterfront Room" Scam

If you are headed to a Caribbean destination -- or anyplace where the beach is the draw -- beware that tour operators and hoteliers do their best to disguise the fact that some rooms at their properties aren't directly on the beach. No matter how expensive the resort, always be on the lookout for ambiguous terms like "waterfront," "water view," and "ocean view" (as well as "beachfront," and "beach view"). These terms have no consistent definitions industry-wide.

Just because a room has a view of the water doesn't necessarily mean it -- or any part of the hotel -- is on the waterfront. And just because a room is "waterfront" doesn't mean it is oceanfront or beachfront. Promotional materials for hotels on bays or intercoastal waterways often try to pass the properties off as being on the beach, when the closest thing they have to a beach is a seawall or a dock.

Bottom line: One hotel's "oceanfront" is another's "ocean view." Don't be the loser in this war of words. Before you make a reservation at a hotel in a beach destination, talk with a representative at the hotel -- not with a reservations agent at an 800 number -- and ask for a precise description of your room's location, lest you end up with a commanding view of a retention pond facing the parking lot of an oceanfront resort. And get the name of the agent: it will lend your case credibility if your room isn't what -- or where -- you expected.

Hot Tip 3: How to get a Late Checkout

Below is an e-mail I received last week about late checkouts.

Dear Tipster:

The last three times I've stayed in a hotel I called the front desk to ask for a late checkout and was told that I could not have one. They offered no reason, but said that if I wanted to stay in the room I could (for a fee, about half the rate for the night!).

I've never had any problem getting a late checkout before, especially in nice places like these. Why are hotels refusing late checkouts these days?

Randy
St. Louis

Hi Randy:

I'm not aware of any trend toward refusing late checkouts. In fact, granting them is an easy way for hotels to curry favor with guests. Of course, there's no way to guarantee a fee-less late checkout -- it is a favor you are asking for, after all -- but the best way I've found to get a late checkout is to request one at the registration desk while you're checking in. Housekeeping schedules only allow for a limited number of late checkouts in order to have all rooms ready by check-in time, so they are usually granted on a first-come, first served basis. The sooner you ask for one, the better your chance of getting one.

If you're told by someone at the front desk that you can't have a late checkout, try this strategy: ask the housekeeper assigned to your room for some extra time. Usually -- especially if you've left a housekeeping tip -- you'll have no problem getting another hour or so, and the front desk doesn't even have to know about it. (Speaking of tips, you should leave housekeepers $1 per night at inexpensive hotels, and from $2 to $5 per night at nicer hotels or resorts.)

Great Gardens of Italy

Itinerary: Stresa, Borromean Islands, Verbania, Bellagio, Florence
Timing: 7-9 days

Italians have been master gardeners from the Renaissance well into the 19th century. Framing country villas or grand city palaces, the most spectacular Italian gardens are laid out with an artist's eye for perspective and color, and most are studded with statuary and fanciful fountains.

A tour of some of Italy's most beautiful gardens begins in Milan, gateway to the Lake District. The best time to plan such a trip is in the spring, when azaleas and rhododendrons are in full, glorious bloom. Note that some gardens are not open in winter or in inclement weather---always call ahead.

Borromean Islands

3 days. Spend the better part of one day exploring the Borromean Islands in Lake Maggiore. Isola Bella (0323/30556) is the most famous of them. Wander up the 10 terraces, where peacocks roam among scented shrubs, and admire the sun-dappled view of the lake. Visit the palazzo to see the rooms where famous guests---including Napoleon and Mussolini---stayed in 18th-century splendor. Isola Madre (0323/31261), like Isola Bella, has a large botanical garden, a profusion of exotic trees and shrubs running down to the shore in every direction. Two special times to visit are April (for the camellias) and May (when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in bloom). Also on the island is a 16th-century palazzo, where an antique puppet theater is on display, complete with string puppets, prompt books, and elaborate scenery designed by Allessandro Sanquirico, a famous scenographer at La Scala in Milan.

Verbania

The next day, hop on a ferry to Verbania and get off at the embarcadero of the Villa Taranto (39 0323 5566), which has magnificent botanical gardens. The villa was acquired in 1931 by Scottish captain Neil McEachern, who expanded the gardens, adding terraces, waterfalls, more than 3,000 palm species from all over the world, and broad meadows sloping gently down to the lake. This is a splendid retreat from the world, a place where paths quietly meander through acres of carefully tended trees and shrubs, often leading to a belvedere framing an idyllic view. In 1938 McEachern donated the entire complex to the Italian people.

Bellagio

2 or 3 days. You won't have any trouble settling into this unforgettably beautiful spot on Lake Como surrounded by romantic vistas. From the 1700s to the present, the area has been a haven for Italy's rich and powerful.

The famous gardens of the Villa Melzi (031/951281), overlooking Lake Como, were a favorite haunt of composer Franz Lizst, who once opined in a letter that he knew "of no land so conspicuously blessed by heaven." A fabulously radiant staircase blooms with azaleas in spring and is topped by a neoclassic palace that hugs a perch over the lake. The gardens are open to the public, but the villa is not.

Just across the water, in Tremezzo, one stop away on the ferry, is Villa Carlotta (0344/40405), a wedding present to Charlotte of Russia in 1843. If you're lucky enough to visit in late spring or very early summer, you will find the place ablaze with color---14 acres of azaleas and dozens of varieties of rhododendrons in full bloom.

The villa was built between 1690 and 1743 for the luxury-loving marquis Giorgio Clerici. The garden's collection is remarkable, particularly considering the difficulties of transporting delicate plants before the age of aircraft. Palms, banana trees, cacti, eucalyptus, a sequoia, orchids, and camellias are counted among the more than 500 species.

From Tremezzo, take the ferry to Sala Comacina, where, during visiting hours, there is regular ferry service to Villa Balbaniello (0344/55575), one of the most magical settings in all of Italy. Relentlessly picturesque, the villa is composed of loggias, terraces, and tiny palaces, all spilling down verdant slopes to the lakeshore, where you'll find an old Franciscan church, a magnificent stone staircase, and a statue of San Carlo Borromeo blessing the waters. The villa is reached by launch from Como and Bellagio. Visits are usually restricted to the gardens, but if you plan in advance it's also possible to tour the villa itself.

Florence

2 or 3 days. Make Florence your base for a series of visits to the gardens of the Medici villas on the city's outskirts. These gardens feel somewhat austere, their beauty lying in the artful arrangements of evergreens.

Probably the most famous gardens in all of Italy are the vernal splendors in the Giardini Boboli (055/294883) behind Palazzo Pitti. The garden began to take shape in 1549, when the Pitti family sold the palazzo to Eleanora of Toledo, wife of the Medici grand duke Cosimo I. The initial landscaping plans were laid out by Niccolo Tribolo (1500--50). After his death, work was continued by Giorgio Vasari, among others.

The Italian gift for landscaping---less formal than the French but still full of sweeping drama---is displayed here at its best. A copy of the famous Morgante, Cosimo I's favorite dwarf astride a particularly unhappy tortoise, is near the exit.

Greater Florence

Continue your villa touring in half-day excursions. Villa Gamberaia (055/697205), a legacy of the wealthy Capponi family, is an elegant Italian garden set in olive groves in the hills of Settignano. Studded with statues and fountains, tall cyrpresses, exotic topiary, and shapely shrubbery, the gardens here are among the best you'll see in Tuscany.

North of Florence, toward Sesto Fiorentino, you'll find the vast Medici gardens of Villa di Castello (055/454791), which are memorably festooned with more than 500 lemon trees. The gardens are the main attraction (the villa is closed to the public). From the villa entrance, walk uphill through the 19th-century park set above part of the formal garden. You'll reach the terrace, which affords a good view of the geometric layout of the Italian garden below; stairs on either side descend to the parterre.

Though the original garden design has been altered somewhat over the centuries, the allegorical theme of animals devised by Tribolo is still evident. The artificial cave, Grotta degli Animali (Animal Grotto), displays an imaginative menagerie of sculpted animals by Giambologna and his assistants. An Ammannati sculpture, a figure of an old man representing Gennaio (January), is at the center of a pond on the terrace overlooking the garden.

At the Medici Villa La Petraia (055/451208), sculptures by Renaissance masters adorn the 16th-century gardens of Villa La Petraia. The villa was built around a medieval tower and reconstructed after it was purchased by the Medici sometime after 1530. (Virtually the only trace of the Medici having lived here is the 17th-century courtyard frescoes depicting glorious episodes from the clan's history.) In the 1800s, the villa served as a hunting lodge for King Vittorio Emanuele II (1820--78), who kept his mistress here while Florence was the temporary capital of the newly united country of Italy.

The garden and the vast park behind the palace suggest a splendid contrast between formal and natural landscapes. Allow 60 to 90 minutes to explore the park and gardens, plus 30 minutes for the guided tour of the villa interior. This property is best visited after the Villa di Castello.

Getting Around

Trains make frequent runs between Milan and Stresa (about 60 minutes), Como (30 minutes), and Lecco (30 minutes). The good lake ferry service makes it easy to explore villages on the Maggiore and Como lakes (ferry trips are no more than 30 minutes). Travel by bus from Como to Bellagio and between Lecco and Bellagio (both trips about 75 minutes, depending on traffic). By train it takes about 3[1//2] hours to travel between Milan and Florence. To reach Villa Gamberaia from Florence, take Bus 10, marked Settignano. To reach Villa La Petraia take Bus 28; Villa di Castello is within walking distance.

15 Great American B&Bs

Fodors.com readers rave about inns from the Berkshires to Los Angeles

Below are 15 places that get the B&B thing right -- at least according to the "Fodorites" commenting in our Rants & Raves board. These inns are so well run that even people who hate B&Bs love them. Click on the links to read more rants and raves by travelers like you, followed by a Fodor's review.

Inn at 2920, Baltimore
"Great neighborhood." -- Claire, Richmond, Virginia
"Very quiet and cozy." -- Carole, Orlando, Florida

Devonfield Inn, Berkshires, Massachusetts
"The New England you're looking for is right here." -- Clare, London
"The brandy and chocolates were a delightful treat before bed!" -- Lisa, New Jersey

The Honor Mansion, California Wine Country
"Most comfortable bed I've ever slept in." -- Rob, Florida
"Unbelievable experience." -- Maria, Newport Coast, California

Lion and the Rose, Portland
"An interesting look into the life style of wealthy Portlanders a century ago." -- Carol, Oregon
"A true taste of Portland." -- Daniel, Spokane

Ambrosia House, Key West, Florida
"Lush landscaping." -- Maria, Pennsylvania
"The best of Old Town." -- Joe, Arkansas

Channel Road Inn, Los Angeles
"Comfortable and charming without being 'cutesy.'" -- Stacey, Atlanta
"What an amazing B&B." -- Kathy, Cleveland

Queen Victoria, New Jersey Shore
"The living is easy at the Queen Victoria." -- Cathy, New Jersey
"Great location in the heart of Cape May." -- Cindy, New Jersey

Olde Victorian Inn, New Orleans
"Our home away from home." -- Mark, Cincinnati
"Everything was exceptional." -- Helen, New York

Inn on 23rd, New York City
"Gorgeous antiques and lovely artwork." -- Marcy, Texas
"I almost don't want to tell anybody about the place!" -- Nancy, Bahamas

The Cedars by the Sea, North Carolina Coast
"Each room is a treat." -- Charles, Locust Grove, Virginia
"I couldn't have felt more at home." -- James, Winston-Salem, North Carolina

Rhett House Inn, South Carolina Coast
"High marks for the extras." -- Amy, Boston
"Tranquility and elegance." -- Andrea, Boston

Hacienda del Sol, Taos, New Mexico
"The hot tub under the stars was romantic." -- Tracy, Houston
"Blessed solitude." -- Steven, Brooklyn

Molly Stark Inn, Green Mountains, Vermont
"A great place (and a great value)." -- Ben, Larchmont, New York
"The best breakfast you will ever have." -- Dana, Philadelphia

Woodley Park Guest House, Washington, D.C.
"A Washington wonder!" -- May, Germany
"I've encountered nothing so serene and delightful." -- Alex, Atlanta

Inn at Thorn Hill, White Mountains, New Hampshire
"The innkeepers and staff spoiled us." -- Clifton and Cindy, New Hampshire
"Perfect getaway destination for couples!" -- Mary, Springfield, Illinois

True Value

Old Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii
Relive the Hawaii of the 1920s in this historic home in a charming neighborhood. Each themed room is decorated with a different Hawaiian flower. Feel like one of the family as you lounge on the grand front porch. (photo,right)

Desert Pearl Inn, Springdale, Utah
Abutting the cliffs of Zion National Park, Desert Pearl is a delight to the senses. Surrounded by thick carpets and plush pillows, hot tubs, and cascading waterfalls, everyone from families and lovebirds are sure to enjoy this hidden treasure.

Hotel Burnham, Chicago, Illinois
Sleep in an 1895 architectural landmark transformed into an intimate hotel. Original details remain, including Carrara marble wainscoting and ceilings, terrazzo floors, and mahogany trim. Spacious and lavish guest rooms are bathed in golds and navy blues, and outfitted with deep blue velvet headboards.

Ocean Surf, Miami, Florida
Stay near the action at this family-owned, beachfront property, but at half the cost of neighboring hotels. You can relax in oceanfront rooms overlooking the Atlantic, sit on the front porch and watch the surf, or, given the savings, live it up in South Beach.

• Romantic Retreats
  
• Dazzling Decadent
  
• Location, Location, Location
  
• Budget Picks for a Pricey Location
  
• The Kids Will Love It Too
  
  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/27/2005, 10:32 AM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

Budget Picks for a Pricey Location

St. Margaret's, London, England
Each room in this popular Georgian-era hotel near the British Museum in Bloomsbury has high ceilings, original cornice moldings, and a grand fireplace. The friendly Italian family that runs the hotel will be calling you by name near the end of your stay. (photo,right)

Hotel de Nesle, Paris, France
On the lookout for a low-cost, one-of-a-kind hotel, the Hotel de Nesle will enchant with its cleverly decorated rooms. Sleep in the Notre-Dame de Paris, lounge in an Asian-style boudoir, or steam it up in Le Hammam. It's a short walk from the boulevard St-Germain in one direction, the Seine in the other.

Larchmont Hotel, New York
Tasteful rooms, crowded bookshelves, a communal kitchen and shared bathrooms will make you feel at home at this lovely beaux-arts townhouse in Greenwich Village. At these prices, this West Village gem is a steal!

Villa Igea, Venice, Italy
Despite its central location on the hectic square of San Zaccaria, this handsome three-story villa, built in 1875, is an oasis of tranquility. With all the intimacy of a private residence, but with amenities and services of larger hotels, you'll never want to leave.

• Romantic Retreats
  
• Dazzling Decadent
  
• Location, Location, Location
  
• True Value
  
• The Kids Will Love It Too
  
  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/27/2005, 10:10 AM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

Location, Location, Location

Hotel Grotta Palazzese, Puglia, Italy
Carved out of the face of a cliff overlooking the Adriatic, the Grotta Palazzese offers breathtaking views, fine dining, and impeccable service. The hotel's tour de force is its summer restaurant, an open-air terrace at the opening of a dramatic cave above the sea. (photo,right)

Hotel Roma, Prague, Czech Republic
Located in the historical center of Prague, under the famous lookout tower Petrin, Hotel Roma offers comfort and convenience at half the price of the competition.

Inn at the Market, Seattle, Washington
A short walk from busy Pike Place Market, the inn offers marvelous views, pleasing accommodations, and ultra-professional staff. Classy, modern rooms charm with comfortable furniture, fresh flowers, and unique sculpture.

Pencarrow near Queenstown, New Zealand
Named for New Zealand's first lighthouse, this cozy bed and breakfast, on 4 acres overlooking the White Mountains and Lake Wakatipu, has spacious suites with private sitting room and lavish bath. Guests enjoy a plentiful country breakfast and access to an impressive wine cellar.

• Romantic Retreats
• Dazzling Decadent
• Budget Picks for a Pricey Location
• True Value
• The Kids Will Love It Too
  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/26/2005, 06:31 PM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

Dazzlingly Decadent

Cayo Espanto, Ambergris Caye, Belize
Leave your cares at the door as your personal butler caters to your every need in a villa on a private island, complete with private infinity pool and the softest Egyptian cotton linens. Discuss each day's meals with the chef, and have them delivered poolside at your private table. (photo,right)

Oberoi Vanyavalis, Ranthambhore, India
Live the royal life at this unique resort, set on 20 acres of gardens on the edge of Ranthambhore National Park. Accommodations are sumptuous -- spacious, luxurious tents with four-poster king-size beds, teakwood floors, walled gardens, and private decks.

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California
Awaken to views of the California coast from a redwood guesthouse 1,200 feet above the ocean. Curl up by the fireplace in a picturesque window seat overlooking the ocean, relax by the pool, or dine in the acclaimed Sierra Mar restaurant.

• Romantic Retreats
• Location, Location, Location
• Budget Picks for a Pricey Location
• True Value
• The Kids Will Love It Too
  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/26/2005, 06:29 PM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

Fodor's Editors Pick the World's Best Places to Stay

When asked to name the world's best hotels, travelers almost always name the world's most expensive lodgings. One can hardly begrudge the Paris Ritz or London Dorchester their four-star status, but does sumptuous and expensive really mean best?

Welcome to Fodor's Choice Hotels 2005, our annual round up of Fodor's editors top hotel picks. Unlike other "best hotel" compilations, ours stresses individuality, and in all price ranges.

We've divided the top honors over the following categories:

• Romantic Retreats
• Dazzling Decadent
• Location, Location, Location
• Budget Picks for a Pricey Location
• True Value
• The Kids Will Love It Too

  
  Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hotel Grotta Palazzese, Puglia, Italy.

  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/26/2005, 06:28 PM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

Romantic Retreats

Auberge du Viex-Port, Montreal, Canada
Step back in time as you nestle into your room with wood-beamed ceilings, century-old brick walls, and handsome casement windows overlooking rue St. Paul or the Vieux-Port.

La Casa Que Canta, Zihuatanejo, Mexico
You'll feel like you're in a dream at this resort clinging to a cliff above a beach. Plunge into an infinity pool or a saltwater pool complete with its own waterfall. At night, you'll fall asleep to the murmur of waves crashing on the beach below. (photo, top)

Manka's, Inverness, California
Obtain complete privacy in your secluded cabin in the woods, equipped with fireplace, overstuffed armchair, two-person tub, and supremely comfortable bed. Dine on exquisite cuisine in Manka's celebrated restaurant.

• Dazzling Decadent
  
• Location, Location, Location
  
• Budget Picks for a Pricey Location
  
• True Value
  
• The Kids Will Love It Too
  
  Posted by Christopher Culwell at 01/26/2005, 06:27 PM
  | Category: Fodor's Choice

A Da Vinci Code Tour: New York

If you still can't get enough of things Da Vinci Code, wing your way across the Atlantic to the headquarters of Opus Dei, in New York's Murray Hill district. With a facade of red brick and Indiana limestone, the headquarters, designed by the architectural firm of May & Pinska, opened in 2001. The building stands a few blocks east of the Empire State Building, but you won't find an Opus Dei sign on it. (The Prelature of Opus Dei in the United States, by the way, has issued a response to The Da Vinci Code.)
ADDRESS: 243 Lexington Avenue, at 34th Street.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Murray Hill.
SUBWAY: 34th Street (Park Avenue).

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

A Da Vinci Code Tour: Scotland

All Things Grail Lead to Rosslyn

With a little help from Sir Isaac Newton, Langdon breaks the second cryptex code, after which he and Neveu journey to Rosslyn Chapel, Scotland's most famous Templar temple, but what they find is not what they expect.

On Tour
Rosslyn Chapel. The pretty little U-shaped miners' village of Roslin, with its rows of stone-built terraced cottages, is famous for the extraordinary Rosslyn Chapel. Conceived by Sir William Sinclair (circa 1404-80) and dedicated to St. Matthew in 1446, the chapel is outstanding for the quality and variety of the stone carving inside. Covering almost every square inch of stonework are human figures, animals, and plants. The chapel's design called for a cruciform structure, but only the choir and parts of the east transept walls were completed.

Some believe the Rosslyn Chapel is where the Holy Grail is buried. Brown writes: "For centuries this stone chapel had echoed with whispers of the Holy Grail's presence. The whispers had turned to shouts in recent decades when ground-penetrating radar revealed the presence of an astonishing structure beneath the chapel -- a massive subterranean chamber. Not only did this deep vault dwarf the chapel atop it, but it appeared to have no entrance or exit. Archaeologists petitioned to begin blasting through the bedrock to reach the mysterious chamber, but the Rosslyn Trust expressly forbade any excavation of the sacred site."

Cracking the Code

Getting There: Neveu and Langdon drive to Roslin from Edinburgh. You can either fly to Edinburgh or take the train, then go by car, taking "Straiton Junction" A 701 to Penicuik/Peebles. Follow A 701 three miles and look for Roslin sign. Once in Roslin Village, look for signs to the chapel, which rests on a bluff.

Where to Stay: Roslin is a mere 8 miles outside Edinburgh, which has several fine hotels.

Getting Around: Edinburgh is easy to navigate by bicycle, bus, car, or taxi.

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

Image Credit: Louis Daguerre, Intérieur de Rosslyn Chapel, 1824
Rouen, Musée des Beaux-Arts

A Da Vinci Code Tour: London

Another Cryptex, Another Clue

Realizing that the clue to the cryptex might not be in France but in England, Langdon, Neveu, and Teabing board Teabing's private plane for London. In midair, the three manage to open the cryptex, but the contents, instead of revealing the secrets of the Grail, yield only another clue wrapped around yet another cryptex. Once on the ground, the threesome, hastily interpreting this latest clue, make a mad dash down Fleet Street to a Knights of the Templar fortress.

On Tour
Fleet Street. The famous London street follows the course of, and is named after, one of the city's ghost rivers. The Fleet, so called by the Anglo-Saxons, spent most of its centuries above ground as an open sewer, offending local nostrils until banished below in 1766. It still flows underfoot, now a sanctioned section of London's sewer system.

The street's sometime nickname, Street of Shame, has nothing to do with the stench. It refers to the trade that made the avenue famous: the press. Since the end of the 15th century, when Wynkyn de Worde set up England's first printing press here, and especially after 1702, when the first newspaper, the Daily Courant, moved in, the term "Fleet Street" has been synonymous with newspaper journalism. The papers themselves all moved out during the 1980s, but the British press is still collectively known as "Fleet Street." To find a relic from the old days, check out the black-glass-and-chrome art deco building that was once the hub for the Daily Express (the paper has since relocated to south of the river).
NEIGHBORHOOD: The City.
TUBE: Blackfriars or St. Paul's.

Temple Church. This house of worship, famed for "the Round," its rare circular nave, was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century. The Red Knights (so called after the red crosses they wore; you can see them in effigy around the nave) held their secret initiation rites in the crypt here. Having started out poor, holy, and dedicated to the protection of pilgrims, they grew rich from showers of royal gifts, until in the 14th century they were charged with heresy, blasphemy, and sodomy, thrown into the Tower of London, and stripped of their wealth. You might suppose the church to be thickly atmospheric, but Victorian and postwar restorers have tamed its air of antique mystery. Still, it's a very fine Gothic-Romanesque church, whose chancel ("the Oblong," dating from 1240) has been accused of perfection.
ADDRESS: Inner Temple Lane, off Fleet Street.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Bloomsbury.
TUBE: Temple.

Nefarious Doings in St. James's Park

A character besotted with the Holy Grail has followed the trio to London, planning to usurp control of the secrets Langdon and Neveu continue to discover. Before he makes his move, though, he slips into St. James's Park to deal with an accomplice who has misbehaved.

On Tour
Horse Guards Parade. This square, on Horse Guards Road, at the east end of St. James's Park, is a fine place for mayhem. It was once the tiltyard of nearby Whitehall Palace, where jousting tournaments were held. The vast square is now notable mainly for the annual Trooping of the Colour ceremony. From Horse Guards Parade, one gets an untrammeled view of Saint James's Park, to which it's adjoined.

Saint James's Park. Three palaces border this gloriously green park: the ancient Palace of Westminster, now the Houses of Parliament; the Tudor St. James's Palace; and Buckingham Palace. Acclaimed as the most royal of the royal parks, Saint James's Park is also London's smallest, most ornamental park, as well as the oldest; it was acquired by Henry VIII in 1532 for a deer park. Henry VIII built the palace next to the park, which was used for hunting only (dueling and sword fights were forbidden). James I improved the land and installed an aviary and zoo, and Charles II laid out formal gardens. St. James's Park makes a spectacular frame for the towers of Westminster and Victoria -- especially at night, when the illuminated fountains play and the skyline beyond the trees looks like a floating fairyland.
ADDRESS: Middle Temple Lane.
NEIGHBORHOOD: St. James's.
TUBE: St. James's Park or Westminster.

Cracking the Code
A portion of the second cryptex's message, "In London lies a knight a Pope interred," finds new meaning for Langdon with the aid of a helpful King's College librarian's computer.

On Tour
King's College. According to Brown, "King's College houses its Department of Theology and Religious Studies adjacent to Parliament on property granted by the Crown." The college's religion department is also the home of the Research Institute in Systematic Theology, one of the world's most advanced religious research libraries. Brown describes the research room vividly: "a dramatic octagonal chamber dominated by an enormous round table around which King Arthur and his knights might have been comfortable were it not for the presence of twelve flat-screen computer workstations." King's College has several campuses on both sides of the Thames, just above Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament. The Department of Theology and Religious Studies is in the School of Humanities.
ADDRESS: The Strand.
NEIGHBORHOOD: St. James's.
TUBE: Temple.

A Final Clue
As Langdon and Neveu scour the tomb of Sir Isaac Newton for a final clue that will crack open the second cryptex, they receive a message from a rival character to meet him in the Chapter House at Westminster Abbey. In the ensuing struggle, they vanquish their nemesis.

On Tour
Westminster Abbey. Nearly all of England's monarchs have been crowned at Westminster Abbey, and many of them are buried here, but the abbey's origins remain uncertain. The first church on the site may have been built as early as the 7th century by the Saxon king Sebert. A Benedictine abbey was established here in the 10th century. At many points the view of the abbey is crowded by the many statues and screens.

The Chapter House, a stunning octagonal room supported by a central column and adorned with 14th-century frescoes, is where the King's Council and, after that, an early version of the Commons met between 1257 and 1547. Underfoot is one of the finest surviving tiled floors in the country. The Abbey Museum is in the undercroft, which survives from Edward the Confessor's original church, and includes a collection of deliciously macabre effigies made from the death masks and actual clothing of Charles II and Admiral Lord Nelson. Sir Isaac Newton's grave and tomb are near the choir screen, at the north entrance to the choir.
ADDRESS: South side of Parliament Square.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Westminster.
TUBE: Westminster.

Cracking the Code

Getting There: Neveu, Langdon, and Sir Teabing zip from an airport near Château Villette in Teabing's private plane and land at Biggin Hill Airport, 12 miles from central London. You're more likely to arrive at Heathrow, Gatwick, or Stansted airport. If you're coming from Paris, you can ride on the train through the Channel Tunnel.

Where to Stay: A night or two at a Bloomsbury, St. James's, or Westminster hotel should help set the mood.

Getting Around: All the London sights in The Da Vinci Code are in a compact area east and south of Trafalgar Square and are accessible by bus or the Tube.

Suggested Route: With one exception, Kings College London, you can easily walk this 2-mile route in the order the sights appear in The Da Vinci Code. Take the Tube to St. Paul's Station and head west on Ludgate Hill to Fleet Street, continuing until you get to Temple, where you'll see the Temple Bar Memorial (1880), a young bronze griffin. Opposite the statue is an elaborate stone arch through which you pass into Middle Temple Lane, which runs south all the way to the Thames. Temple Church will be on your left as you head toward the river. After you've explored the church, reverse course to the statue and continue west.

Along the Strand you'll pass by Kings College London. After exploring the campus, continue west on the Strand to Trafalgar Square. Just south of the square on Whitehall is the Horse Guards Parade, which edges St. James's Park. Continue south to Westminster Abbey. Opus Dei's London office, which is not open to the public, is more than 3 miles west of Westminster Abbey, just north (on Orme Court, off Bayswater Road) of the northwest corner of Kensington Gardens.

If you're not up for this much walking, an alternative is to take Bus 11, which travels along Ludgate and Fleet Street to Trafalgar Square and Westminster.

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

A Da Vinci Code Tour: Rome

Secret Meeting at the Vatican
After learning from the Vatican Council that a secret society, the Priory de Sion (headed by Jacques Saunière), has been making plans to uncover shocking news about Jesus, Opus Dei's Bishop Manuel Aringarosa accepts a mission to quash the revelations. We first meet the bishop on an Alitalia night flight from New York to Rome, where, at a secret meeting of the Vatican Council, he will collect an important package. Although the action of The Da Vinci Code sidesteps the Vatican, the office of the Holy See weighs heavily on every page.

On Tour
Vatican City. The tiny walled city-state and capital of the Catholic Church draws millions of visitors every year to its wealth of treasures and spiritual monuments. You might go to the Vatican for its exceptional art holdings -- Michelangelo's frescoes, rare archaeological marbles, and Bernini's statues -- or to immerse yourself in the unique and grandiose architecture of St. Peter's square. Or you might go in pilgrimage, spiritual or otherwise, to the most overwhelming architectural achievement of the Renaissance and the seat of world Catholicism: St. Peter's Basilica. In between the sacred and the profane lie sights for every taste and inclination: magnificent rooms with elaborate frescoes by Raphael, sculptures such as the Apollo Belvedere and the Laocoön, frescoes by Fra Angelico, paintings by Giotto and Leonardo, and the celebrated ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The power that emerged as the Rome of the emperors declined -- the Church -- gave impetus to a profusion of artistic expression and shaped the destiny of the city for a thousand years.

The massive walls surrounding Vatican City strongly underscore the fact that this is an independent, sovereign state. Vatican City covers 108 acres on a hill west of the Tiber; within the walls, about 1,000 people live as residents. The Vatican has its own daily newspaper (L'Osservatore Romano), issues its own stamps, mints its own coins, and has its own postal system. Within its territory are administrative and foreign offices, a pharmacy, banks, a print shop, a mosaic school and art restoration institute, a tiny train station, a supermarket, a small department store, and several gas stations.

Castel Gandolfo
Upon arrival in Rome, Bishop Aringarosa is picked up by a Vatican attaché, who, in keeping with the clandestine nature of the operation, takes him not to the Vatican but to the papal summer retreat in nearby Castel Gandolfo.

On Tour
Castel Gandolfo. A small town in the Alban Hills outside Rome, Castel Gandolfo overlooks pristine Lake Albano. The town is an ideal getaway for Romans seeking escape from their city's hustle and bustle, and indeed popes since the 17th century have been doing just that. From anywhere in town the Pontiff's Palace can be seen rising above the rooftops and trees. Built in 1626 by architect Carlo Maderno, the palace on one side has expansive and lush gardens that frame spectacular views of the lake and the Tyrrhenian Sea on the horizon. A square built in front of the palace in 1929 permits easier viewing of the pope on special occasions and provides better access to the nearby Church of Saint Thomas of Villanova, built in the 17th century by Gianlorenzo Bernini. The Pontiff's Palace is off-limits to the public, but the gardens can be toured.

Cracking the Code

Getting There: Bishop Aringarosa jets into Rome's principal gateway, Leonardo da Vinci Airport (06/65951; www.adr.it), commonly known by the name of its location, Fiumicino (FCO). You should too. The airport lies 30 km (19 mi) southwest of the city. There's a direct train link with downtown Rome.

Where to Stay: There are many hotels near the Vatican and elsewhere in the city.

Getting Around: The Vatican's entrance on Viale Vaticano can be reached by Bus 49, which stops right in front. Or you can take Bus 81 or Tram 19 and walk. Another option is to take a Metro line A train to the Via Cipro-Musei Vaticani stop. Castel Gandolfo is a 30-minute train ride from Rome's Termini Station. By car, the drive is 20 minutes; take the A-1 Highway Roma Nord heading toward the Grande Raccordo Anulare (Great Ring Road); 20 kilometers after the toll booth, enter the Grande Raccordo Anulare heading toward the airport. Get off at Exit 23 (Via Appia) and follow the signs.

Suggested Route: Tour the Vatican, and then head out to Castel Gandolfo.

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

A Da Vinci Code Tour: Paris

Shocking Night at the Ritz
After he gives a talk at the American University of Paris on mysterious runes at Chartres Cathedral, Robert Langdon returns to the famous Ritz hotel for a good night's sleep. A late-night visit from the police inspector Bezu Fache leaves him shocked: the man with whom he was supposed to meet earlier that day, Jacques Saunière, has been murdered.

On Tour
Ritz Paris. Ever since César Ritz opened the doors of his hotel in 1898, the mere name of this venerable institution has become synonymous with luxury. You could easily spend days here without even venturing onto the magnificent place Vendôme. There's the famed Ritz Escoffier cooking school, where you can learn the finer points of gâteaux; the Hemingway Bar, where Colin Field reigns as a world-ranked bartender; and the Greek-temple-ish subterranean swimming pool. Guest rooms match this level of luxe; even in the "humbler" spaces, modern conveniences are cleverly camouflaged among the gleaming mirrors, chandeliers, and antiques. The most palatial suites bear the names of famous Ritz residents: the Coco Chanel, the Prince of Wales, and the Elton John.
ADDRESS: 15 place Vendôme.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Louvre/Tuileries.
MÉTRO: Opéra.

Prime Suspect
Jacques Saunière's body is discovered in the Louvre's Denon Wing, not far from two of Leonardo da Vinci's greatest works. Near the body, the police have found an enigmatic message. With the help of Saunière's granddaughter, talented cryptologist Sophie Neveu, Langdon unravels the message: a series of clues that will lead the two on a quest for the Holy Grail.

On Tour
Denon Wing, the Louvre. The Italian painting collection begins at the western end of the Denon Wing. Some rooms here are slowly being remodeled; the Mona Lisa is usually in Salle 3, but through 2005 she is in Salle 13. Seek out the paintings by the original Renaissance man, painter-engineer-inventor-anatomist Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519). His enigmatic, androgynous St-John the Baptist hangs in Salle 5, along with more overtly religious works, such as the 1483 Virgin of the Rocks, with the harmonious pyramidal arrangement of its figures.

Continue down the corridor, past masterworks by Raphael and Giuseppe Arcimboldo; you'll soon find yourself in the midst of a crowd, approaching the Mona Lisa (properly, La Gioconda, known as La Joconde in French). With all the guards and barriers, it feels as if you're visiting a holy relic, and in some ways you are. This small painting was Leonardo's favorite. It has belonged to innumerable French rulers since its acquisition by François I, including Napoléon, who kept it on his bedroom wall. The wife of one Francesco del Giocondo, a Florentine millionaire, was 24 when she sat for this painting in 1503. (Some historians believe the portrait was actually painted after her death, and Langdon has an altogether different theory about the origins of the image.) Either way, she has become immortal through Leonardo's ingenious sfumato technique, which combines glowing detail with soft, depth-filled brushwork.
ADDRESS: Palais du Louvre.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Louvre/Tuileries.
MÉTRO: Palais-Royal.

Convenient Decoy
Neveu and Langdon flee the Louvre in her SmartCar (!), heading first to the rue de Rivoli and then down the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe. Heading north out of the rotary, the car makes a hard right down boulevard Malesherbes and makes a beeline for Gare Saint-Lazare, where Neveu's purchase of two train tickets to Lille provides a convenient decoy.

On Tour
Champs-Élysées. Marcel Proust lovingly described the elegance of the world's most famous avenue, the Champs-Élysées, during its belle epoque heyday, when its cobblestones resounded to the clatter of horses and carriages. Today, despite the constant surge of cars and the influx of chain shops, there's still a certain je ne sais quoi about strolling up Les Champs, especially at dusk, as the refurbished streetlamps are just coming on. The café tables are always good for people-watching, while the cinemas, nightclubs, and late-hour shoppers ensure the parade continues well into the night. Originally cattle-grazing land, the 2-km (1¼-mile) Champs-Élysées was laid out in the 1660s by the landscape gardener André Le Nôtre as a park sweeping away from the Tuileries. Traces of its green origins remain in the lower section of the avenue, where elegant 19th-century park pavilions house the historic restaurants Ledoyen, Laurent, and Le Pavillon Élysées.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Champs-Élysées.
MÉTRO: Champs-Élysées-Clemenceau, Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, George V, Étoile.

Gare Saint-Lazare. The beaux arts-style Gare Saint-Lazare was built in the late 1880s to accommodate travelers to Paris's Universal Expo of 1889, for which the Eiffel Tower was also erected. Though the station now fulfills 21st-century transportation needs, the grandeur of the architecture (which includes some buildings from the 1840s and 1850s) remains. In the right light you can almost imagine the scene that inspired Monet's 1877 painting Gare Saint-Lazare.
ADDRESS: 108 rue Saint-Lazare.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Montmartre.
MÉTRO: Gare Saint-Lazare.

Help in the Quest
Having lost the police, Neveu and Langdon head in a cab to Paris's west side, traveling via the Bois de Boulogne's Allée de Longchamp to the Depository Bank of Zurich, where a deciphered message from Saunière tells them they'll find a "cryptex" (a device whose code must be broken to reveal its contents) that will help in their quest for the Grail. The fictional Depository Bank of Zurich is said to be "adjacent to the Roland Garros tennis stadium," which is in the park's southern section. (The bank is said to be on rue Haxo near the stadium; the real-life rue Haxo is on the eastern edge of Paris near the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise.)

On Tour
Bois de Boulogne. Until Napoléon III's time, the 2,200-acre Bois de Boulogne was a wild woods. But the brilliant landscape architect Jean-Charles Alphand, a protégé of Baron Haussman (the prefect who oversaw the reconstruction of Paris in the 1850s and 1860s), created a series of elegant promenades, romantic lakes, and formal playgrounds based on the London-style parks the emperor admired. Le Bois became an immediate hit with Parisians and remains popular today with rowers, joggers, walkers, riders, picnickers, and lovers. Parisian style and elegance are on full display at the French Open tennis tournament, held in late May at the beautiful Roland Garros stadium. The park becomes a distinctly adult playground after dark, especially along sections of Allée de Longchamp, when prostitutes of all genders come prowling for clients.
ADDRESS: Main entrance at bottom of av. Foch.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Bois de Boulogne.
MÉTRO: Porte Maillot, Porte Dauphine, Porte d'Auteuil (also Bus 244).

A Monk Visits Saint-Sulpice
An albino monk-assassin connected with Opus Dei pays a visit to Saint-Sulpice, where he searches for a keystone believed to unlock the secret of the Grail. The sole occupant of the church, Sister Sandrine, watches the monk from a distance, but her phone call for help is cut short.

On Tour
Saint-Sulpice. Despite the presence of two magnificent Delacroix frescoes, Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and Heliodorus Driven from the Temple, the interior of Saint-Sulpice is oddly impersonal. Dubbed the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, this enormous 17th-century church has entertained some unlikely christenings -- those of the Marquis de Sade and the poet Charles Baudelaire, for instance -- and the nuptials of the irreverent wordsmith Victor Hugo. The 18th-century facade was never finished, and its unequal towers add a playful touch to an otherwise sober design. Near the middle of the nave on the right side, you can locate one end of the Rose Line near a stone statue with a Latin inscription. The Rose Line, a narrow brass strip, marks the original zero-longitude line, which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk uses the line as a reference point in his quest for the Holy Grail. You can retrace his path from the stone statue north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St Peter. (The enormous organ mentioned in the book is in a rear chapel.)
ADDRESS: place Saint-Sulpice.
NEIGHBORHOOD: Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
MÉTRO: Saint-Sulpice.

Château Villette
Unable to break the code that will open the cryptex and reveal the secrets of the Grail, Neveu and Langdon turn to art historian Sir Leigh Teabing for help. Holed up in the splendid 17th-century Château Villette with a ne'er-do-well manservant, Teabing is more than willing to help.

On Tour
Château Villette. A mere 30 minutes from Paris, near the Château de Versailles, sits the regal Château Villette, laid out on a 240-acre spread in 1668 by architect Francois Mansart. Built for the Count of Aufflay, Louis XIV's ambassador to Venice, the château is not open to the public. Plutocrats, Hollywood celebrities, and others plunk down 6,500 euros a day (one-week minimum) to rent the manse, which includes 18 rooms and 17 bathrooms, all decked out in fabulous 17th-century French decor. The famous gardens surrounding the château were designed by André Le Nôtre, mastermind of the gardens at Versailles.

Cracking the Code

Getting There: The Da Vinci Code being fiction, some characters simply find themselves in Paris, and one of them is supposed to land at Charles de Gaulle airport but ends up not doing so. For we mere mortals, commercial aviation must suffice.

Where to Stay: At the Ritz, of course. Pinching euros? Check out these other Louvre/Tuileries hotels.

Getting Around: All the Parisian settings mentioned above, except Château Villette, are accessible via the métro. If you've got the money to book Château Villette, your hosts will arrange transportation as part of the rental.

Suggested Route: Start at the Ritz, pausing first to appreciate the grace and serenity of the octagonal place Vendôme. With its double necklace of ornate 19th-century-style streetlamps, the area surrounding the Ritz is especially striking at night. From here, take the métro (Opéra to Palais-Royal) or walk to the Louvre.

In the Epilogue, Dan Brown describes a route to the Louvre that works fine by auto, but for a more scenic stroll make a detour onto rue Saint-Honoré, the sophisticated artery of the rich and class-conscious 1st Arrondissement. To get to rue Saint-Honoré from place Vendôme, head south on rue de Castiglione and make a quick right. Au courant boutiques like Colette line rue Saint-Honoré. At place André Malraux, make a right turn on rue Richelieu as it pours onto the rue de Rivoli; cross this last street and enter the Louvre via the arched access to the Court Napoléon, where I.M. Pei's pyramid is situated.

From the Louvre, head south into the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood to place Saint-Sulpice and its namesake church (Métro: Palais-Royal to Saint-Sulpice). Should you come across an albino monk, keep your distance. It's a walk of more than 3 miles from the church to the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe, so you might want to take the métro (Saint-Sulpice to Étoile). The Bois de Bologne is just a bit west of here, and the supposed location of the Depository Bank of Zurich is to the south. If you take the métro from the Porte d'Auteuil subway station to Gare Saint-Lazare, you'll be tracing underground the route Sophie takes to the train station.

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

A Da Vinci Code Tour

Travel the roads taken by characters in the best-selling novel

"A must-read before a trip to Paris," wrote "Jay" on the Fodors.com Travel Talk forums earlier this year. The Da Vinci Code, a suspense story wrapped around a lecture on art and religion. Although the real meaning behind Leonardo's art is ultimately unknowable, the real-life places in which Brown has set his tale are known to historians and tourists throughout the world, and the book has inspired travelers to visit them.

Inspired by the comments of Jay and other Da Vinci Code aficionados, we've whipped up a tour of some of the key sights tied to the book. Most can be visited by the average tourist, but a few can be seen only from afar, and one requires thousands of dollars a day to enter.

The Da Vinci Code opens with a late-night visit by the police to Robert Langdon, a prominent symbologist from Harvard University. The curator of the Louvre has been killed inside the museum, and a cryptic message has been found alongside the body. Thus begins a tale involving murder, religious intrigue, and a quest for the Holy Grail. To operatives of the Vatican and Opus Dei, a conservative Catholic group, the secrets the curator was trying to protect flew in the face of church teachings, giving both organizations an incentive to suppress them.

The main action takes place in and around four key locales: Paris, Rome, London, and Scotland. For the tours of these destinations, we've included corresponding highlights from the book, but, lest we give away too much of the plot, only enough to put the setting into context. Following the lists of sights to see is some practical information, including suggested routes.

The Da Vinci Code Tour

Paris | Rome | London | Scotland | New York

7 Ways to Save on Your Next Hotel Room

If you're the type of traveler who just wants a decent place to hang your hat and you don't want to spend a fortune to do it, here are seven ways to save on your next hotel room:

Be flexible

Hotel rates are based on supply and demand, so be aware of peak periods. If your destination's high season is from December through April and you're trying to book near the end of April, you might find considerable savings if you change your travel dates by a week or two. Also, keep in mind that at many properties you'll be charged peak-season rates for your entire stay even if you straddle the dates between peak and nonpeak seasons. So ask when rates go down.

Use your frequent-flier miles

If you have a credit card that allows you to earn frequent-flier miles for purchases, contact the company (or visit its Web site) and ask about hotel deals or promotions during the time you'll be traveling. Also check with any airlines for which you have frequent-flier miles. Web sites such as WebFlyer.com track current promotions and offer tips about maximizing your miles.

Check hotel web sites

The large travel-booking Web sites often sell rooms from consolidators who have bought up empty hotel rooms. But the major hotel chains also offer last-minute discounts, and because they're not paying the middleman (the consolidators), they sometimes have better deals than the travel sites.

Don't be afraid to haggle

Most people are so intimidated by know-it-all hotel desk clerks that they don't try bargaining for a better deal. But negotiating for a better deal is often worth the trouble, because most hotel general managers would prefer having a customer paying a lower-than-usual rate to no customer at all. And if you find something on your hotel bill that you feel is unfair -- such as an outrageously high phone charge -- don't be afraid to complain about this either. To keep your goodwill, hotels will often reduce or eliminate such charges.

Look for weekend deals at business hotels

High-end chain properties that cater to businesspeople are often busy only on weekdays. To fill up rooms on weekends, such hotels often drop their rates dramatically on weekends. Because many of these places are in leisure destinations such as San Diego, Palm Springs, and Miami, they're worth considering even if you're not traveling on business.

Make an online bid

Depending on the destination, you can save 30 percent or more off a hotel's regular rates by using bidding sites such as Priceline or Hotwire. You choose one or more levels of quality (e.g., two-star or three-star properties) and one or more neighborhoods or cities and then make your bid. You'll know within minutes if it was accepted (by which time your credit card will have already been charged). One strategy that experienced bidders employ is to target areas on the fringes of popular destinations such as the California Wine Country and Orlando. You can often get a good deal by doing this and still wind up fairly well situated.

Avoid hidden costs

Pricey little extras that hotels never mention can significantly increase the cost of your stay. Don't let this happen. Find out about resort fees, fees for parking, Internet use, safe-deposit boxes and fitness centers before you agree to stay. And don't touch the hotel's phone unless you absolutely have to -- the rates at many large properties can be more than $2 a minute even inside the United States. Also, don't book yourself into a hotel that has amenities, such as business centers or in-room fax machines, you don't need, because the cost of providing them is factored into your room rate.

Castles of the German Wine Country

Itinerary: St. Goar, Rudesheim, Heidelberg, Bad Wimpfen, Weickersheim

European castles are unrivaled for their sheer splendor and magnitude, and nowhere in Europe does one find castles more splendid and enormous than in Germany. Many of these magnificent structures, created between the Middle Ages and the late 1600s, can be found in Germany's wine region, hugging cliffs and hillsides along the Rhine, from the Mosel Valley to Bad Wimpfen to the Main Valleys. A visit to Germany's biggest and best castles reveals not only centuries of German culture and history but also provides an overview of the region's impressively rich grape varieties. Come in summer or autumn, when the wine-festival season is in full swing and castle courtyards host theater performances and concerts.

St. Goar
The Mittelrhein wine town of St. Goar is an ideal base for excursions into the Rhine and Mosel valley. Overlooking the town, the castle ruins of Burg Rheinfels bear witness to the fact that St. Goar was once the best-fortified town in the Mittlerhein. From its early days in the mid-1200s, it was repeatedly enlarged by the counts of Katzenelnbogen, a powerful dynasty, and their successors, the landgraves of Hesse. Take time for a walk through the impressive ruins and the museum, which has an exquisite model of the fortress in its heyday.

Set aside a full day to tour the Rhine's only impregnable castle, the Marksburg, perhaps the most impressive castle still standing in Germany. The castle was built in the 1100s above the town of Braubach, and is the only land-based castle on the Rhine to have survived the centuries intact. Within its massive walls are a collection of weapons and manuscripts and a medieval botanical garden.

Next, take a jaunt through the lower Mosel valley from Koblenz to Burg Eltz, whose fanciful spires and towers, not to mention its precarious perch over a luminous forest, lend the castle a fairy-tale aura. The 40-minute tour of the castle guides you through, among other things, the period rooms and massive kitchen. In summer, the lines to see Burg Eltz are long, so bring water, particularly if you're traveling with children. To get here, exit B--416 at Hatzenport, proceed to Munstermaifeld, and follow signs to the parking lot near the Antoniuskapelle. From here it's a 15-minute walk.

Heidelberg
Spend one day exploring Heidelberg's Old Town and massive castle ruins. What is most striking about the ruins is the architectural variety of this great complex (photograph above). The oldest parts still standing date from the 15th century, though most of the castle was built in the Renaissance and baroque styles of the 16th and 17th centuries. There's even an "English wing," built in 1612 by the elector Friedrich V for his teenage Scottish bride, Elizabeth Stuart; its plain, square-window facade is positively foreign compared to the more opulent styles of the castle.

The castle can be reached by taking the Konigstuhl Bergbahn. Heidelberg straddles the Hessische Bergstrasse and northern Baden wine regions. The white varietals, such as Riesling, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), yield the finest wines. Click here for additional information on sights, dining, and lodging in Heidelberg.

The Neckar Valley
Neckarzimmern's Burg Hornberg, residence of a celebrated 16th-century knight, is the perfect stopover. The 12th-century castle is now a hotel-restaurant, and as you can well imagine, the guest rooms have splendid views of the Neckar Valley. The food is good and the wines are exceptional (try the spicy white varietals Traminer and Muskateller).

On the way to Bad Wimpfen, a detour to burg Guttenberg is essential. This is one of the best-preserved of the Neckar castles. Within its stout stone walls are a museum and a restaurant (closed January, February, and Monday), the latter with views of the river valley. The museum has displays and diagrams that document the history of the castle as well as suits of armor. The castle is also home to Europe's leading center for the study and protection of birds of prey (the German Raptor Research Centre), some of which are released on demonstration flights from the castle walls April through October, daily at 11 and 3, and in March and November, daily at 3.

Bad Wimpfen
At the confluence of the Neckar and Jagst rivers, Bad Wimpfen is one of the most conspicuously lovely towns of the Neckar Valley. On the hilltop, Wimpfen am Berg, the emperor Barbarossa built his largest Pfalz (residence) in 1182. A walking tour (marked by signs bearing the town arms) begins at the Rathaus on the market square, adjacent to the Burgviertel (palace quarter) and the buildings of the former imperial residence. These are nestled along the town wall between the turreted "Blauer Turm" (Blue Tower) and the massive stone "Roter Turm" (Red Tower), the western and eastern strongholds of the palace, respectively. You can climb either tower for a grand view of the city, with its fanciful half-timber houses, their red-tile roofs and windows decorated with flower boxes.

Weikersheim
In neighboring Weikersheim, tour Schloss Weikersheim, a Renaissance hunting palace of the counts of Hohenlohe. The Rittersaal (Knight's Hall) is a don't-miss spectacle of gilt and, glass, stone and plaster. No detail was left out of the interior design. There are even artfully crafted bas-reliefs of game animals on the walls, a quasi-poetical reference to the love of hunting. The castle holds one of the most impressive collections of antiques in Germany. Downstairs, in the cellar, you can sip a glass of wine drawn from enormous casks while outside you can stroll the gardens and admire the spectacular view.

Follow the course of the Tauber to its confluence with the Main River at Wertheim, also known as "little Heidelberg" because of its impressive hilltop castle ruins. In Wurzburg, your next stop, you'll see many Gothic and baroque masterpieces, including the Marienberg fortress and its successor, the opulent Residenz. Three first-class wine estates here have wine pubs and shops.

Getting Around
Fast, frequent train service from Frankfurt to St. Goar, Koblenz, Heidelberg, or Wurzburg, supplemented by local train and bus service, gets you to the above destinations within two hours. The Deutsche Touring company's Europabus travels the Burgenstrasse, including Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley, as well as the Romantic Road, serving Wurzburg, Bad Mergentheim, and Weikersheim. Sights are open and boats cruise the Rhine, Mosel, Neckar, and Main rivers from Easter through October.