Big Anniversary Savings at SF's Argent Hotel

Still trying to figure out what to do for that upcoming wedding anniversary? San Francisco's luxurious Argent Hotel has just the thing. Guests celebrating an anniversary determine their room rates by adding the number one in front of the year they were married. So, if you were married in '89, your room rate for one night would be $189, and couples married in '79 would pay $179. The longer you've been married, the lower the rate. Couples who've enjoyed five decades (or longer) of marital bliss pay a flat nightly fee of $50 per night (alas, newlyweds married between 2000 and 2005 must pay a flat nightly rate of $200). The Argent Hotel is in the heart of San Francisco, near Union Square, Market Street, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Yerba Buena Gardens and the Moscone Convention Center. To book the Wedding Anniversary Celebration package, call 877-222-6699 or visit www.argenthotel.com. Package is based on availability, exclusive of tax, and must be booked 72 hours prior to arrival. Marriage certificates must be presented at time of check in. Deal is valid through December 31, 2005.

Off-Season Nantucket Deals

Getting older isn't much fun, as anyone over 40 will tell you. Travelers of a certain age, however, will be pleased by the savings offered this fall at the Jared Coffin House, Nantucket's most historic inn. From September 5 to October 9, 2005, the hotel's 50/50 program offers rates starting at just $112 per night, for guests age 50 and older. From October 10 to November 24, 50/50 rates start at just $60 per room, per night. All rates apply to stays from Sunday to Thursday nights, and are subject to availability.

The Jared Coffin House is located in the heart of Nantucket Town's Old Historic District. The location is ideal for an afternoon stroll past the town's historic sights, which include lovely gardens, Greek Revival-style buildings, stately churches, and cobblestone streets.

Rates are per room, per night, subject to availability and represent a 50% savings off regular rates. Guests must present photo identification with birth date upon check-in; only one room occupant must be 50 to qualify. Some blackout dates and restrictions apply. Reservations can be made only by phone on 800/248-2405.

Late Summer Escape to San Diego

Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa, ideally located in the seaside town of La Jolla, along the San Diego coast, heads into the dog days of August with a Hot Summer Nights package, available Sunday through Thursday now through September 30, 2005. The resort is offering a mid-week 4 days/3 nights package for two priced at $795 that includes free parking, daily breakfast buffet, complimentary use of the spa and exercise center, a massage at The Spa at Estancia, and more. For more information, call 877/437-8262.

Low Autumn Fares on American

It's not too early to be thinking about an autumn escape. Whether you're in search of fall foliage or a sunny stroll on the beach, American Airlines and Sheraton Hotels have something in store for you. Here's the scoop:

Chicago to Miami
Prices starting from $74* each way

Dallas/Fort Worth to Los Angeles
Prices starting from $79* each way

New York City to San Francisco
Prices starting from $119* each way

Chicago to San Juan, Puerto Rico
Prices starting from $89* each way

Miami to Providenciales, Turks & Caicos
Prices starting at $99*

Miami to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
Prices starting at $118*

* Book by 8/12/2005

In addition, Sheraton Hotel & Resorts is offering a 20 percent discount in conjunction with bookings on an American Airlines flight for travel during the fall sale period (restrictions apply). Travelers can review and book travel at www.AA.com. For an additional $5 per ticket, travel arrangements can also be made by calling American's reservations number at 1-800-433-7300 within the U.S. and Canada. The Sheraton Hotel & Resorts promotion is available at participating hotels in North America and Latin America. Book by August 12, 2005 and complete stay by December 15, 2005. For complete rules and restrictions, see the terms and conditions on www.sheraton.com/20sale.

World's 50 Best Restaurants

If fine dining is high on your list of travel priorities, the results of Restaurant magazine's annual World's 50 Best Restaurants poll should interest you. The annual list is based on the magazine's canvassing of more than 600 influential restaurateurs, critics, chefs, and industry experts. This year's consensus will have foodies everywhere heading to London, where over a quarter of the winners are located. We've included the winner's list below and links to Fodorites' reviews of these acclaimed spots.

1. The Fat Duck - Bray, Berkshire
2. El Bulli Montjoi - Girona, Spain
3. The French Laundry - Yountville, California
4. Tetsuya's - Sydney
5. Gordon Ramsay - London
6. Pierre Gagnaire - Paris
7. Per Se - New York
8. Tom Aikens - London
9. Jean Georges - New York
10. St John - London
11. Michel Bras - Laguiole, France
12. Le Louis XV - Monte Carlo, Monaco
13. Chez Panisse - Berkeley, California
14. Charlie Trotter's - Chicago
15. Gramercy Tavern - New York photo right
16. Guy Savoy - Paris
17. Restaurant Alain Ducasse - Paris
18. The Gallery at Sketch - London
19. The Waterside Inn - Bray, Berkshire
20. Nobu - London
21. Restaurante Arzak - San Sebastian, Spain
22. El Raco de Can Fabes - San Celoni, Spain
23. Checchino dal 1887 - Rome
24. Le Meurice - Paris
25. L'Hotel de Ville - Crissier, Switzerland
26. L'Arpege - Paris
27. Angela Hartnett at the Connaught - London
28. Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons - Oxford, England
29. Le Cinq - Paris
30. Hakkasan - London
31. Cal Pep - Barcelona
32. Masa - New York
33. Flower Drum - Melbourne, Australia
34. WD50 - New York
35. Le Quartier Francais - Franschhoek, South Africa

36. Spice Market - New York
37. Auberge de l'Ill - Illhaeusern, Alsace
38. Manresa - Los Gatos, California
39. Restaurant Dieter Muller - Begisch Gladbach, Germany
40. La Maison Troisgros - Roanne, France
41. The Wolseley - London
42. Rockpool - Sydney
43. Yauatcha - London
44. The Ivy - London
45. Gambero Rosso - San Vincenzo, Italy
46. The Cliff - St James, Barbados photo right
47. Le Gavroche - London
48. Enoteca Pinchiorri - Florence, Italy
49. Felix - Hong Kong
50. La Tupina - Bordeaux, France

Join the talk forum's discussion of the merits of the winners.

Photo Credits: (1) courtesy of Gramercy Tavern (2) courtesy of The Cliff

Overlooked and Underrated: Newgrange, Ireland

Where: Newgrange, the world's oldest building and the star of Ireland's history-haunted Boyne Valley, about an hour's drive from Dublin.

Why: Built at least 5,200 years ago---1,000 years before Stonehenge---Newgrange and its mysterious neighbors, the megalithic passage tombs of Knowth and Dowth, were built by a lost, technologically advanced civilization. Working before the invention of the wheel, 300 workers took 20 years to shift 200,000 tons of stone from as far as 50 miles away to build it. Nobody is quite sure why.

In 1969, archaeologists working deep inside, about 15 feet underground, made a startling discovery. At sunrise on the winter solstice---the shortest day of the year---a thin beam of sunlight, channeled through a precisely aligned opening, penetrates the inner chamber and floods it with blinding light.

Don't miss: The waiting list for the winter solstice experience is years long. But the phenomenon is dramatically simulated during excellent guided visits from the Bru na Boinne Visitors Center, west of Donore (+353 41 988 0300 ) every day of the year. When light fills the darkened chamber, you'll understand why ancient people worshipped the sun.

Also worth seeing: The Boyne Battlefield where, in 1690, William of Orange defeated his father-in-law and Catholic rival James III in one of the most contentious battles of Irish history. As a pre-Millennial act of cross-border co-operation, the Irish government joined forces with Ulster's Orange Order to purchase and develop the battlefield, now open to the public year round.

Tasty treat: Tea, with homemade cakes, is arguably the best meal in Ireland.

Best restaurant: The Signal Restaurant, in the Station House Hotel, specializes in traditional Irish food---rack of Kilmessan lamb, Boyne Salmon. The setting is an abandoned railway station morphed into a luxury hotel. Kilmessan, Co. Meath +353 46 25239.

How to get there: From Dublin, take the N2 north towards Slane in Co. Meath. Turn right on Donore Road, 1.2 miles south of Slane. The Bru na Boinne Visitors Center is 4.5 miles further on the River Boyne. Bus Eireann operates day tours of Newgrange and the Boyne Valley from Dublin's Central bus station.

---Ferne Arfin

Just Back From New Orleans

Fodor's writer Michelle Delio recently paid a visit (one of many) to New Orleans, which is quite possibly her favorite city in the world. Here's her report.

Why New Orleans?

The city totally seduced me during my first visit 15 years ago. Since then I've been back 13 times. The architecture, the food, the music, the magic---there is no place in the world quite like New Orleans. As soon as I get home, I start planning a return trip.

What were your favorite finds this time?
St. Roch's (1725 St. Roch Ave.) is a classic New Orleans-style cemetery with a tiny gothic chapel dedicated to the patron saint of plague victims. There's a small room to the right of the altar crammed with offerings commemorating cures attributed to the saint. Most are plaster replicas of body parts or medical supplies, including two artificial eyeballs proudly displayed on a platter. Far more intriguing than the legendary local cemeteries. The chapel isn't always open, so call first (504-945-5961).

Barrister's Gallery (1724 O. C. Haley Blvd.) features an outstanding collection of strange southern folk and outsider art, a must see for connoisseurs of the weird. Sallie Ann Glassman's voodoo shop, Island of Salvation Botanica (835 Piety St, FeyVodou.com), is an oasis amidst all the tourist tripe, a warm, welcoming place to ask questions about voodoo, buy authentic curios, and get an eerily accurate crystal ball reading.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

There's no one best thing to eat in New Orleans! Acme Oyster House (923 Decatur Street) makes a great shrimp po' boy sandwich (we skipped the oysters since its summer, but know from previous slurping that the gooey mollusks are terrific here, ditto the boiled crawfish). Mother's (401 Poydras Street) po' boys are overall the best in the city.

Central Grocery's muffulettas (a sandwich of meats, cheeses and olive salad) are wonderful, as is the alligator sauce piquant (a spicy 'gator stew) and the crawfish pasta at the Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter's Street). The new-to-me Voodoo BBQ, (1501 St. Charles Ave.) serves up terrific barbecue. Eating a plate of beignets while sipping chicory coffee at Café du Monde (800 Decatur Street) is essential, but don't exhale as you lift a beignet to your mouth or everything in the vicinity will be covered in powdered sugar.

What was overrated?
This is going to get me bammed, but I think Emeril's New Orleans' restaurants have taken a slide since the chef became so popular. Back when Emeril was a chef rather than a celebrity, eating at his Warehouse District restaurant (Emeril's at 800 Tchoupitoulas St.) was a real treat. Now the food and service are just okay, though the desserts are still terrific.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
Thinking Bourbon Street would be fun to see again. Yuck. It still stinks of the unholy brew of body fluids that other tourists have left behind. Go there once for 15 minutes and then never ever go back. That's my advice.

What advice do you have for someone going to New Orleans?

Summertime brings very hot temperatures to New Orleans---100 degrees with close to 100% humidity. But most buildings are air-conditioned and there are plenty of river breezes and relaxed attitudes. In fact, New Orleans is actually more comfortable in the summer than many other cities. Plus, if you go in summer you'll find the city isn't crammed with tourists, so hotel rooms are amazingly cheap. Another good time to visit is during the weeks leading up to Christmas---the city is almost as uncrowded as it is during the summer, and the weather is usually nice. If you go in December, ask about "Papa Noel" rates, discounts for the holiday season offered by many New Orleans hotels.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Québec City
  
• Prague
  
• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

25% Savings on Los Cabos Luxury

Los Cabos has become one of Mexico's most popular coastal getaways. It's also one of the most expensive. A room with an ocean view here can easily set you back $600 or $700 per night, the highest room rates in Mexico.

What's the fuss? Situated at the southern tip of the Baja California peninsula, the land ends in a rocky point called "The Arch," a place of surreal beauty, especially on balmy moonlit nights when the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez beckon.

Thanks to the kind folks at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, everyone can taste Los Cabos this summer. From now until October 15, 2005, the resort is offering 25 percent off on summer rates. Usual summer room rates run from $650 to $4,500 per night, but summer promotion prices run $450 to $3,800.

Las Ventanas is located at the tip of Mexico's Baja Peninsula, nestled on fine white sands along the sparkling-blue Sea of Cortez. The 61 suites are spacious, exquisitely furnished, and most have magnificent panoramic views. The avant-garde spa is heralded for its treatments derived from the biological bounty of the Baja desert, and the signature Baja-Mediterranean cuisine is inspired by the region's abundant natural resources. Guests can arrange yacht excursions, world-class golf, and tennis programs.

For information and reservations, call 888-767-3966. Outside the United States and Canada, call the resort directly at 52-624-144-2800.

Edinburgh Festival Fever

You can hardly fault denizens of Edinburgh for claiming the Culture-Capital-of-Europe title, at least in summer. Indeed, there are so many arts festivals here in August that performances sometimes spill out of festival houses and onto the city's crowded Royal Mile.

Seven festivals in all will vie for audiences this month, but the Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe feature the big-ticket items.

The Edinburgh International Festival lineup includes several politically charged performances, including Shan Kahn's The Prayer Room and John Adams' opera The Death of Klinghoffer.

The Fringe's offerings are enormous---in 2004 alone there were 25,326 performances---so if you're confused about what to see, advance word says you can't lose with dance troupe CoisCiém's Chamber Made, performed in a Hilton hotel room.

Although both festivals are packed with shows, the short duration of most performances means that festival-goers can fit in several shows in a single day. Overwhelmed? Stay flexible and be ready to wander. We've compiled a preview of performances at both festivals that have earned early buzz:

58th Annual Edinburgh International Festival

58th Annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Photo Credit: A Fringe Festival performance on the Royal Mile, courtesy of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival

---Katie Hamlin

5 Days/4 Nights in Oahu for $799

Hilton Hotels' Grand Vacations Club is in the middle of a terrific Hawaii promotion. From now through December 25, you and a guest can languish in the sun and sand at Oahu's Hilton Hawaiian Village for five days/4 nights for $799. The package also includes gift certificates for shopping and dining at participating retailers and restaurants.

Located on Waikiki Beach, Hilton Hawaiian Village is the ultimate luxury resort, with comfortable, condo-style units, lush tropical gardens, waterfalls, exotic wildlife, a trendy spa and wellness center, 20 restaurants and lounges, 90 boutiques, cultural activities, and close proximity to all that Oahu has to offer.

Talk to a vacation guide at 1-866-843-4482 (refer to web code WEBPHNHHV)

Vacation at Home with the Kids?

by Lisa Oppenheimer

It's hot, it's humid and it's raining. The air-conditioning is broken, and the kids are activity-less for a whole week between camps and the start of school. That's five days: 120 hours; 7,200 minutes; 432-thousand seconds (not including weekends). An eternity.

For those not lucky enough to be in possession of plane tickets to points elsewhere, it's time to get creative. Let's face it: Play dates, board games, and the great outdoors will only get you so far. Sooner or later, someone is going to let loose with that all-too-familiar call of the child, "Mommy, I'm bo-r-r-r-r-ed."

Despite the overload of free time and togetherness, I have managed to enjoy a school vacation or two. And that's without a lounge chair and a margarita. One of my favorites in recent memory was spent as a tourist in my own backyard.

Think Like a Tourist

I've lived near Boston since long before I had children and began answering to the title, "ma'am." But until desperation sent me screaming for the trolley tours, I hadn't so much as visited the Freedom Trail, let alone Fenway Park. Other families actually use their coveted vacation time to visit here. What were we missing? Being a tourist in your hometown means more than just acquiring local tchotchkes. You have to think like a tourist. Plan ahead, make reservations, research as if you were from out of town. Most important: Don't turn your nose up at an activity just because it's considered -- egad -- touristy.

Here are some other things to consider:

Convention and Visitors Bureaus: Most people don't readily think of their local CVB as a resource. That's not surprising, since such organizations spend their money advertising to out-of-towners. As a local, you probably don't need info on local currency and time zones (let's hope you're not that out of touch), but you will want up-to-date information on attractions. Many CVBs have phone lines staffed with vacation planners. Tourist booklets, available for free, will detail the most popular places of interest, as well as some you might not have heard of. They may even have money-saving coupons. Use an eagle eye to scan for the unusual. I would never have known about the local canoe rental (or in winter, the cross-country ski resort) had I not called the CVB. You'll also hear about discounts offered by individual institutions, as well as citywide offers such as the City Pass, currently available in many U.S. metropolises.

Guidebooks:You probably skip the travel portion of the bookstore that pertains to your home city. But you shouldn't. Guidebook authors spend months pounding the pavement in search of little-known facts and points of interest. Why should out-of-towners be the only beneficiaries?

City Park Rangers: As a group, these people are exceptionally knowledgeable about local lore. In addition to detailing interesting (and perhaps little-known) facts about local sites, they can direct you to walking tours (often free) that can make an educational trip more fun. In Boston, the local park service has a handout that turns the Freedom Trail into a treasure hunt and quiz: Return the completed packet and get an official ranger's badge. Like Convention and Visitors Bureaus, most park services have maps and brochures you can either pick up in person or have sent to your home.

Museums: Obvious city choices are going to be children's museums and other such institutions. Call ahead for a schedule of activities -- many facilities plan special events for out-of-school kids, some of which require pre-registration. Occasionally, you'll find a drop-off program that provides parent and child with a break from each other. Fine-arts museums might be less crowded (not to mentioned air conditioned), so don't rule them out. I'm often surprised by the number of so-called "grown-up" museums (Boston's Museum of Fine Arts and L.A.'s Getty Center to name two) that welcome -- even cater to -- children of all ages.

Tours: Bus and walking tours can help you get to know your city in a whole new way. Until last year, I had dismissed the local trolley tour as hokey. That it was -- but it was also a ton of fun. For 90 minutes, we rode around in a bus dressed up as a cute trolley, listening to our driver dispense the city's legend, lore, and a few corny jokes. With on-off privileges, we also had a ball stopping to walk around different sites. In nice weather, check around for local walking tours (again, the CVB and park rangers can help you here) that can take in anything from famous battle sites to local hauntings.

Public Transportation: If you're lucky enough to live near a city with good public transportation, ditch the car at the nearest train station and enjoy. The bedroom community we live in has nary a bus or train, so my kids think Boston's "T" is the city's equivalent of a Disney ride. We spent one entire vacation day gleefully riding the rails between junk-food stops. We had a ball.

Hotels: While it's a pricey addition to your sojourn at home, a hotel is the thing that makes a retreat a vacation. Not only can you revel in room service, but you can enjoy the benefits of being in the heart of the action. To make it a real treat, look for a hostelry with a pool (we once made an overnight vacation out of a stay in a pool-equipped hotel that was practically in our neighborhood). Check local travel-section ads (in your own city and others) for overnight deals that sometimes include shows and attractions.

Finally, act like a tourist, but remember you're a local. Extensive walking tours (like the Freedom Trail) don't have to be tackled all at once. And refrain from trying to do all of the city's attractions in a couple of days. After all, you live just around the corner.

London for 20£ a Night

For the price some backpackers pay to share a bunk with a snoring stranger, thrifty visitors to London can check-in at easyHotel, a slimmed down alternative to a full-service hotel. The rooms, which range in size from 60-80 square feet, don't offer much in the way of charm, but you can't complain about the rates, which start at 20£.

The rooms sleep two and have only a double bed and a bathroom. Daily housekeeping service, television, and even windows are available at an additional cost. Located in South Kensington, the hotel puts guests within close proximity to London's most famous sights.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of easyHotel

Cabo Luxe for Less

The two-month-old Pacifica Holistic Retreat & Spa in Cabo San Lucas is luring travelers to Mexico's Baja Peninsula with a low introductory offer of just $195 per night from now through the end of the year. Regular rates, effective January 1, 2006, start at $355 per night.

Sprawled along the Pacific Ocean, the new 140-room retreat has 14 luxurious seaside suites that draw inspiration from Zen-inspired, minimalist designs.

Health and well-being are the main emphasis here, and amenities include a full-service spa that boasts a half-dozen treatment rooms, a "therapeutic chamber," and a Watsu pool. A beachside Temazcal---a sweat-lodge ritual inspired by the ancient Aztecs---emphasizes spiritual, mental, and emotional well-being.

The resort's restaurant, Siempre, uses market-fresh ingredients and serves them up in a serene setting around the infinity pool. Guests enjoy 24-hour room service, a poolside restaurant-bar, Aire, and two additional cafes and bars, including a juice lounge.

For more information, call 800-990-8250 or visit www.pueblobonita.com

Visit the Castle Where Love Died

When people think of castles, they usually think of Europe, and with good reason. The greatest number of castles on earth are in Germany, Great Britain, and France. But there are castles in the U.S., and some of them even look like the real thing, with grand stone walls and tall spires, dramatic parapets, and gothic embellishments.

New York state has a perfectly wonderful citadel, Boldt Castle (right), in the Thousand Islands region of the state. Combining Medieval and Victorian architectural elements, Boldt Castle has six towers and 120 rooms and sits on a dramatic spread of forested land. Best of all is the manse's brooding story, which is even more evocative than the structure itself.

Boldt Castle was the creation of hotel tycoon George C. Boldt, who owned the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City. Around 1900 Boldt decided to build a castle for his wife, Louise. He spent more than $2.5 million on the structure, but on January 4, 1904 Louise Boldt died. Heartbroken, Boldt immediately stopped the ongoing construction and he never returned to the castle or the island.

For almost 75 years, the castle sat abandoned, falling into disrepair. In 1977 the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and began a long restoration. Today, visitors can take self-guided tours of the stronghold and wander many of its 120 rooms. Recent restoration has brought to light many fine features of the original design, including the Great Hall's grand staircase, a stained-glass dome in the upper ceiling, and marble flooring in most of the rooms. The first level has been turned into a museum, with exhibits on George and Louise, and other attractions include the Power House and Clock Tower, and the Boldt's playhouse, where the family resided while the castle was being built.

Getting to Boldt Castle
Visitors can take scenic boat cruises or take a shuttle boat from Alexandria Bay to get to the castle. Shuttles run every 30 minutes, from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m., and cost $7 per person. Boldt Castle facilities operate daily through October 16, 2005, as well as the weekend of October 22 and 23. The Boldt Castle Yacht House operates daily until October 2, 2005. Tickets to the castle are $5.25 for adults and $3 for children. For more information about Boldt Castle, visit www.boldtcastle.com.

MuseumWatch: London, Rome, Washington, DC

Frida Kahlo, Tate Modern, London, through October 9
If images of voluptuous actress Salma Hayek come to mind when you hear the name Frida Kahlo, the actual painted image of the bisexual Mexican artist may come as a shock. Her own favorite subject in dozens of self-portraits, the diminutive, mono-browed Kahlo found little success in her lifetime, which was lived in the shadow of the great rotund muralist Diego Rivera, whom she married twice. But her following has reached a cult-like status, and this retrospective, the first ever in the U.K., elevates her to the stratosphere of important 20th-century artists. Kahlo's unique view of her life and times---a left-wing whirl of famous communists in both the Old and New Worlds---was documented with oils and watercolors that reflect both the political upheaval of the time and her own personal demons. ---Will Shank

Fernando Botero, The Last Fifteen Years, Palazzo Venezia, Rome, through September 25
Is this more than a man with a gimmick? The Columbian painter and sculptor, born in Medillin in 1932, would have us think so. Fifty of the 170 works on display address the atrocities of the American military in the prison of Abu Ghraib in Iraq, but it is still hard not to snicker. Botero's signature style depicts everyone, hero and villain alike, as a spherical doughboy, creating an uneasy tension between the subject and the artist’s depiction of it. Easier to swallow are his cartoonlike parodies of traditional subjects: Jesus on the cross is so bloated that he appears helium-filled and likely to ascend to heaven like a balloon. Still, Botero's palette is so light and his style so naïve that one envisions his works as illustrations for a novel by his compatriot Gabriel Garcia Marquez.---Will Shank

Irving Penn: Platinum Prints, National Gallery of Art, Washington, through October 5
A rare opportunity to get inside the head of a creative artist, this exhibition, focusing on a 2002 gift of the photographer to the National Gallery, includes 17 photographic collages entitled "Platinum Test Materials." Each features six to ten randomly arranged test strips of some of Penn's most famous prints, including portraits of Pablo Picasso (right) and Marcel Duchamp, as well as his celebrated Vogue fashion studies, still lives, and studies of indigenous people in New Guinea. When juxtaposed, these serve to illustrate the technical choices that resulted in the luxurious textures of his sumptuous black-and-white photographs. The final platinum prints complete the picture. ---Will Shank

Photo credits: (top) Frida Kahlo, Tate Modern; (bottom) Irving Penn Picasso at La Californie, Cannes, France, 1957 National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gift of Irving Penn 1960 by Irving Penn, Courtesy of Vogue

Plush Bus--A Fine Alternative to Amtrak's Acela

Bostonians and New Yorkers alike will tell you there is no perfect way to get from one city to the other. In recent months, plane-, train-, and auto-fatigued travelers have been hopping on LimoLiner, a jazzy bus service that has been linking Beantown to the Big Apple since late 2003. According to LimoLiner spokesperson Kathy Wilson, business is up 15 percent since April, when Amtrak yanked the Acela. Free food gives busses an edge over flying. There are also cushy leather seats, free wireless internet, first-run movies, not to mention a butler---well, an "attendant" who will make dinner reservations for you en route. The tradeoff: what time you save bypassing airport security you may spend in rush-hour traffic. Busses run seven days between the Back Bay and New York Hiltons, with an intermediate stop at the Sheraton Framingham upon request. Cost is $76 each way. Plan ahead for popular Sunday and Monday trips. Call 888-546-5469. ---Lisa Oppenheimer

Montreal Highlife for Less

Looking for a reason to visit Montréal Here's one. From now through October 31, the Montréal Tourism Board's Sweet Deal packages shave 50% off the third night of your stay in Canada's most vibrant city. Packages also include discount coupon booklets for area attractions, room upgrades, and more. Check out the tourism board's site for full details. We've listed a few of the featured hotels below along with their nightly rates and our users' reviews:

Delta Montréal---$179 CAN, $145 US
Buffet breakfast, Starwood Preferred Guest Points

Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth---$209 CAN, $170 US
Full breakfast buffet or room service for two

Hilton Montréal Bonaventure---$230 CAN, $190 US
Upgrade to executive floor

Holiday Inn Select Montréal Centre-Ville---$169 CAN, $137 US
American breakfast

Hyatt Regency Montréal---$189 CAN, $154 US
Buffet Breakfast for two

Le Centre Sheraton---$199 CAN, $162
Continental breakfast for two, 12p.m. check-in, 3 p.m. check out

Montréal Marriott Château Champlain---$229 CAN, $186 US
Buffet breakfast for 2
Milk and cookies for kids on arrival

Ritz-Carlton Montréal---$229 CAN, $186 US
Pay with your VISA card and receive a free Cirque du Soleil CD.
Upgrade in Deluxe room.

Montréal bound? Check out tips from fellow Fodorites in our talk forums:

Montréal Restaurants-- Girl's Weekend

Recent Montréal features from the TravelWire:

15 Top Shops in Montréal Romantic Retreats

Photo credits: Photo courtesy of the Ritz-Carlton Montréal

What to Know If You Get Sick While On Vacation

by Lisa Oppenheimer

No one ever plans to get sick on vacation. I certainly didn't. But alas, one day into a vacation aboard a cruise ship, there I was dialing the shipboard emergency number for medical assistance, and being carted off to the infirmary in the middle of the night for what turned out to be a kidney stone.

As a child of the 1970s, I expected to find Bernie Kopell of The Love Boat in his "office," brandishing a stethoscope and a lascivious smile. A picture flashed in my head of the good doctor asking guest star Dick Gautier to cough, and then diagnosing Lou Gehrig's disease.

"Just let me die," I told my husband. As it happens, I was pleasantly surprised. The floating metropolis I'd boarded included an entire hospital, with several capable doctors and some sophisticated equipment, not to mention an IV line attached to a pain-numbing cocktail. I would have preferred to be in the mainland hospital of my choice. But given our location---the middle of the Atlantic Ocean---my kidney stone and I were quite happy to settle for the nearest medical facility, a few decks below my family's cabin.

Although the experience had a happy ending, it made me think carefully about medical options for future excursions. I had never considered what I'd do if a family member became seriously ill on the road. Lots of broods have tales of fevers, ear infections, injury-inducing "bonks," and other things that have sent them in search of a doctor. So, where exactly do you go?

If you're sailing aboard a cruise ship, as I was, you're probably in luck. Most ships are pretty well stocked to counter an array of emergencies. There's currently no standard for onboard health care, so you'll want to ask up front. Even so, for serious injuries you may need to go to a hospital at the next port.

On land, avoid the emergency room unless it's a true emergency. As at home, urgent-care wards take patients on a need-to-be-treated basis, so a minor ailment could be a full-day in a waiting room.

A better bet might be a walk-in clinic. Find one by asking a local, as I did the day my daughter came down with what I suspected was strep throat during a visit to the San Diego Zoo. Many resorts and hotels contract with medical services that provide house calls in a pinch. If you have no luck at your own hotel or if you're staying in a private rental without a front desk, call a nearby resort or hotel (a child-friendly one if you're looking to treat a sick child) and ask where they refer patients.

If you're out of the country, a U.S. consular office can help you find medical care in an emergency. You can find information ahead of time at www.travel.state.gov/. That said, you'll do even better if you've done a little advance planning. Some good ideas:

Bring your own meds. This includes over-the-counter stuff, especially if you're going overseas where familiar brands might be unavailable, and simple things, such as painkillers, particularly for children, might have entirely different formulas. Ask your doctor about suitable alternatives in case you find yourself in a pinch.

Safeguard Prescriptions. Essential meds should always be packed in your carry-on. Save yourself a phone call back home by bringing a spare doctor's prescription, just in case. I like to stash a couple of essential pills, such as antibiotics, in a separate bottle so as to avoid immediate calamity if something should get lost.

Bring a medical report. Complicated conditions can be helped along in an emergency with a written description from your doctor, especially if you're going out of the country.

Check out government advisories. Prepare yourself for what might happen in a foreign destination by checking out the travel advisories of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Research the Web. Several Web sites, including MedicineNet.com, provide information for travelers.

Consider joining a medical club. Organizations such as International SOS charge a membership fee to help you find medical help wherever you are.

Read Your Insurance Policy. Some plans will pay for out-of-area coverage only if it's a bona-fide emergency. Others put a cap on medical expenses while you're traveling, and many require you to call for approval before seeking help. My cruise ship care required payment up front, and was quite pricey. My insurance company was kind and reimbursed me, but I needn’t have been so lucky. Knowing the rules in advance could save you some unexpected expenses later.

If medical coverage is spotty, consider supplemental insurance. Trip-cancellation or interruption insurance covers costs if you have to cancel or cut your trip short for medical or other reasons. If you're traveling to a truly remote spot, you might consider evacuation insurance, which covers the exorbitant cost (often in the tens of thousands) if a family member needs to be airlifted to a hospital.

Overlooked and Underrated: Beaucaire, France

by Ferne Arfin

Where: Beaucaire, in the heart of Van Gogh country, mid-way between St. Remy de Provence and Nimes.

Why: For hundreds of years this pretty little pleasure port, at the intersection of the Rhone and the Canal du Rhone a Sete, hosted the richest commercial fair in Europe. Fabulous 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century town mansions crowd narrow lanes and shady squares as evidence of the fortunes made.

The surrounding open countryside segues from fragrant garrique---rock- strewn hills covered with wild thyme, rosemary, rock roses and pine---to the wide salt meadows of the Camargue, where wild ponies and small native bulls graze alongside huge flocks of pink flamingos.

Tasty treat: Pichoulines---small, green, local olives redolent of herbs and garlic. And if you see taureau (French for bull) on a menu, don't pass it up. The richly flavored beef of the semi-wild cattle is a Beaucaire specialty.

Top outing: Take a boat along the Petit Rhone into the Camargue. Because this stretch of the Rhone is quiet, no license is required and boats can be rented for a few hours or by the day. It's a great way to see wildlife and the thousands of species of resident and migrating birds.

Also Worth Seeing: The Troglodyte Abbey, just outside town, is a 5th-century Romanesque monastery carved into the native rock. From the abbey, the views of the surrounding countryside are lovely.

Best restaurant: L'Ail...Heure occupies a vaulted stone cave and a terrace under the town's castle. The chef, Luc Andreu, is beginning to build a national reputation in France for his unusual dishes (sea bass with truffles, bull steak, wheat risotto). The French magazine Le Point says the prix-fixe lunch is "like a gift." (48 rue du Chateau, 33/046659-6775)

Where to stay: Hotel Robinson is a rambling white house set in acres of pine woods beside a wide stream. The Blanc family has run the hotel for four generations, which explains the relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere. The indoor/outdoor restaurant is very popular with locals for cuisine du terroir (regional cooking).

Don't miss: Seeing a Course Camarguaise in the Beaucaire arena. In this game, athletic young men, dressed completely in white, compete to grab various tokens from the horns of small native bulls. Both the human and taurine competitors become local stars.

How to get here: Beaucaire is 45 minutes west of Marseille Airport over good, modern roads.

Super Summer Savings at ALL Omni Hotels

Still trying to figure out what to do for your summer vacation? It's a little late for that Himalayan adventure you've been talking about, but there's still time to take advantage of an Omni Hotels Ideal Escape package. From now through September 5, 2005, Omni Hotels is offering a 25% discount (per night) on weekend stays at all Omni Hotels. Packages include free breakfast for two each morning, and a personal call prior to the trip from an Omni Concierge who can help customize your weekend stay. Here's a sampling of the discounts at some of Omni's most popular hotels:

$109 at the Omni Houston Hotel at Westside
$169 at the Omni San Francisco Hotel
$179 at the Omni Orlando Resort at ChampionsGate
$199 at the Omni Shoreham in Washington, D.C.
$209 at the Omni Mont-Royal in Montreal

Photo: Lobby of the Omni San Francisco Hotel (Omni Hotels)

Why Hotel When You Can Villa?

Want to go to Italy and wake up in a villa? Heading to the Caribbean but dread the thought of staying at an all-inclusive resort? You're not alone. Thousands of travelers seek the comforts of apartments, houses, condos, and villas while traveling.

A common misconception about renting condos and houses is that the perks of privacy carry a hefty price tag. Actually, renting a three-bedroom house that sleeps six is often cheaper than trying to accommodate the same number at a pricey resort. Plus, renting a house or condo with a kitchen means you can prepare your own food, which saves on costs.

There are dozens of rental websites out there. Here are a few sites that can help you realize holiday bliss:

www.blueescapes.com
This Austin-based outfit features profiles of affordable luxury Caribbean villa rentals on the islands of Anegada, Anguilla, Grenada, St. Barth, St. Croix, St. John, St. Martin, St. Thomas, and Grand Cayman.The site offers personalized services, making it a valuable resource if you are planning a Caribbean wedding or family reunion.

www.summerinitaly.com
This company represents 200 properties along the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, Capri, Cliento National Park, and Tuscany.

www.vacationspot.com
Vacationspot.com lists more than 2000 properties, many of them in the United States. The site is easy to navigate and you can register for its "100 Days, 100 Stays" sweepstakes, which will award 100 lucky winners with a free one-week stay at an undisclosed rental property.

www.cyberrentals.com
Cyberrentrals.com has thousands of properties, many of them in the northeastern United States. Some property descriptions include photos and online guest books where visitors can read testimonials of a specific property.

www.viviun.com
This site has a decent selection of rentals in Thailand, New Zealand, and South Africa. For your amusement, we suggest browsing through the site's "castles for sale" listings.
(Katie Hamlin)

Photo Credit: Villa Arundel, Don Hebert

On the Fringe with FringeNYC

Don't fear the Fringe. Yes, much of what you see at the FringeNYC Festival, a two-week performance art showcase, is off-off Broadway stuff, but you'll also find traditional plays and musicals and a lot of generally frothy summer fare.

The festival, running August 12-28, promises 1,300 performances by more than 180 emerging theatre and dance companies from around the world. In addition to theater and performance art, expect dance, children's theater, puppetry, and multimedia programming. Performances take place at 20 venues in Lower Manhattan, but there are also free outdoor performances as well.

A fair amount of the action happens in Washington Square Park, where you can see free productions of Shakespeare's Much Ado About Nothing, performed by the Alaska Theatre Alliance, and where theater and dance companies will offer preview performances of their shows. On weekends, kids can meet actors here at "Fort FringeJr" and learn about the art of performance. There's also "FringeU" for aspiring thespians, offering classes in everything from shameless self-promotion to walking on stilts.

Tickets to all shows are $15 each; multi-show discount passes are available. For more information, call 212-279-4488 (inside NY) or 1-888-FringeNYC (outside NY).

Photo: The cast of Animal Farm Project, a wondrously witty update of Orwell's Animal Farm, to be performed August 12, 13, 14, 16, and 17 as part of the FringeNYC Festival. (photo by Mr. Yoon)

Three Nights for Price of Two in Tahiti

Ever dreamed of plopping yourself down on a white-sand beach under the cooling shade of an undulating palm tree? Robert Louis Stevenson did, and so did Paul Gauguin. Marlon Brando liked Tahiti so much he bought an island in a neighboring archipelago. But why should dead guys have all the fun? Now through June 30, and again October 1 through December 1, Te Tiare Beach, an Outrigger Resort on Tahiti's "garden island" of Huahine, is offering guests three nights for the price of two.

Te Tiare Beach is on the island of Huahine, between Tahiti and Bora Bora. The island is serviced by Air Tahiti, with frequent commuter air service from both Papeete and Bora Bora.

Accommodations include 41 air-conditioned overwater beach and garden bungalows in a spectacular South Pacific setting of quiet lagoons and soul-stirring serenity. The bungalows are spacious, air-conditioned, and come with comfortable rattan furniture, a TV, refrigerator, wet bar, phone, and other amenities.

Island activities include scuba-diving, kayaking, snorkeling, shark-feeding, jet-skiing, deep-sea fishing, sunset boat cruises, water skiing, sailing, bicycling, scooter rentals, and horseback riding. Tours of the island's various historical sites can be arranged, including trips to sacred sites of ancient Polynesian nomadic tribes and the engraved monoliths of the native Ma'ohi people.

Rates range from $320 to $700 per night and are per room for double occupancy. For reservations and information, call 1-800-688-7444 or log on to www.outrigger.com.

The Art of Fine Dining with Kids

by Lisa Oppenheimer

My husband and I are not terribly discriminating when it comes to food. This we learned during a trip to Paris a decade ago when, despite being in the land of coq au vin (chicken in wine), we chose jambon et fromage (ham and cheese) as our preferred local delicacy.

Still, even we of the unsophisticated palate were a little disappointed when we found ourselves with children in Chateau Country, downing burgers at the entirely un-Continental Buffalo Grill (for the record: the French don't actually have a word for "ketchup").

Like other parents of young children, Steve and I discovered that the road to family dining isn't paved with foie gras. But adventures in family dining are looking brighter. Upscale eateries that once shunned children seem to be taking note of families. Need proof? The ultra-swank Aujourd'hui at the Four Seasons Boston actually has a kids' menu that includes hot dogs and French fries. There's no children's menu at Spago Beverly Hills, but the famed Chef Puck stocks some highchairs (no booster seats, though) and can prepare special selections such as plain pasta in a pinch.

That's not to say you should doll the little ones up and take them to the nearest five-star trattoria. But it is an invitation to be a bit more daring---a particularly good idea during vacations when sticking to the food chain (Applebees, Ruby's, Etc.) might shortchange the experience. I mean, the inherent charm of, say, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, is going to be lost if you're dining at Hooters.

Treading unfamiliar culinary territory, including the heady stuff, isn't impossible---it just requires a bit of advance preparation. At the very least you'll want a crayon or pen (two if you have two children) to play hangman. A few other morsels:

Never arrive hungry: Famished children are notoriously miserable children. and Murphy's Law dictates that the hungriest customers will be served last. While you'd ordinarily save their appetites for the main course, avert disaster with bread, crackers, or your ever-present stash of Cheerios or graham crackers---served from your knockoff Chanel clutch, natch.

Be creative: Many restaurants will be happy to adjust grown-up meals---Linguini without the clam sauce, Chicken Parmesan without the parmesan (but maybe with ketchup). Ask before you sit down to see how flexible they are, and be prepared to perhaps pay grown-up prices.

Dine early: A reservation after about 7:30, particularly at a fashionable dining spot, is going to produce tired children---and perhaps unhappy looks from the fashionable crowd around you. Who needs that kind of pressure? The early-bird hour is a much better bet all around.

Be realistic: My own children are well-mannered diners, but not the type for Spago Beverly Hills. Specialty dining such as that requires a special kind of kid, one who enjoys dressing up, can sit relatively still and is entertained by conversation. Save yourself the stress of trying to mold your child into something he or she is not. On the other hand, you may have the most well-behaved cherubs on the planet, but that will be irrelevant if the restaurant doesn't want them. "We don't prohibit children, but we don't recommend bringing them," is a hint. Take it and move on.

Let them eat cake: Small children (and even big ones like me) know chocolate and sugar as their two favorite foods. To try dining in peace, feed the kids their main dish before your dinner reservation (perhaps via room service) and let them eat dessert while you enjoy dinner. It may raise a few eyebrows among your fellow diners, but as long as they're well behaved, who cares?

Keep your sense of humor: The gourmet macaroni and cheese made with real cheddar and parmesan might be unappealing---it probably pales next to the freeze-dried cheese-food product they get at home. Whatever the cause of a meltdown, take heed of the hapless diners around you, pay your bill and leave. You can slowly relish the boxed-up food back in your hotel room after the kids have gone to bed.

If all else fails, try takeout: On our French escape, we bought some fixings at a local boulangerie and enjoyed the fare al fresco, albeit at the playground. Without the stress of the full-service meal, the girls became adventurous enough to sample a new flavor or two---and actually enjoyed them. Bon Apetit!

Where to Find the Weird and Wacky

If you've ever wanted to see Elvis's childhood home, or stand at the exact spot where James Dean died in a car accident, you might want to check out DriveAbouts, the latest addition to Hampton Inn & Suites' nifty Landmarks guide. DriveAbouts allows you to search all 50 states for famous and infamous locales. All the conventional stuff you'd expect to find is here, like how to find the theatre where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated, but there are also unusual things related to sports, art, literature, and popular culture in America. Granted, knowing the location of the house used in The Brady Bunch isn't as important as knowing where to find Frank Lloyd Wright's home in Chicago, but you have to admire the guide's all-inclusiveness. Here are some sample links:

Arizona Meteor Crater

Black Dahlia Murder Case

Led Zeppelin Album Cover

Birthplace of the Egg McMuffin

Patty Hearst Abduction Site

Eurofly: Non-Charter Service to Naples, Palermo from NYC

Italophiles can rejoice: travelers to three of Italy's most popular regions---Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, and Emilia-Romagna---will be spending a lot less time in airports this summer. Last month, Italian carrier Eurofly began direct, regularly scheduled service from New York City to Naples, Bologna, and Palermo. Eurofly is the first non-charter airline in decades to serve these cities nonstop from the US.

For the remainder of the summer, Eurofly will offer three flights per week on wide body Airbus jets to Naples (that route is quickly selling out) and Bologna, and one New York-Palermo flight per week. At last check, Eurofly's prices were a few hundred dollars less than the high-season fares on competing airlines. September and October trips look like even more of a bargain, beginning at $399 for a New York-Bologna round-trip in Economy.

You'll have to book directly through Eurofly (www.euroflyusa.com, or call 800-459-0581 from 9-5) to get on these flights; the airline has yet to sign up with Expedia or other online travel agencies. ---Robin Goldstein

New York Restaurant Week Extended

If you're heading to New York City in the next few weeks and eating well is high on your to-do list, you're in luck. The city's Summer Restaurant Week, which started back on June 20, has been extended through September 5. Eighty-five restaurants will continue to offer special three-course, prix fixe menus, Monday through Friday. Lunch lavishly for $20.12; dinners run $35.

The Restaurant Week menu is not available for lunch and dinner at all participating restaurants, and it is strongly recommended that you call the restaurant ahead of time to check availability. Beverage, tax and gratuity are additional. Check the program's website for more details.

Click on the featured restaurants below to see the ratings of our users:

Aquavit Cafe Artisanal Barbetta Bolo Cafe Boulud Cafe des Artistes Dumonet

Estiatoro Milos Lenox Room The Mercer Kitchen Montrachet Palm Restaurant West Side Payard Patisserie & Bistro

Petrossian Restaurant RainTamarind Tribeca Grill Victor's Cafe Vong Water's Edge Restaurant

Photo Credits: (top) Courtesy of Cafe des Artistes

Other related stories:

World's 50 Greatest Restaurants
A Foodie Tour of New York City

Mona Lisa's New (Old) Home

If you're planning a Da Vinci Code tour of Paris, you'll be interested to know that Leonardo's Mona Lisa has a new home. As of last month the world's most famous painting no longer hangs in the Grand Gallery of the Denon Wing, as reported in Dan Brown's bestselling novel. Following years of preparation and planning, museum officials have finally moved the painting down the hall to the Salle des Etats, where Mona hung from 1966 to 2001.

According to a story in ARTnews, the painting now rests in a sealed enclosure with "temperature and humidity control behind 1.52-inch-thick nonreflective glass," and the space around the enclosure is behind a wood railing. The move was made for several reasons, not the least of which is that the Salle des Etats is larger than the Grand Gallery and can more easily accommodate the 6 million-plus visitors who traipse through the museum annually to see the painting.

Travel to Antarctica---No, Really!

It's going to be a while before any of us can easily travel to Mars, but if you'd like to experience Mars-like conditions on earth, you might consider Antarctica, that frigid, ice-bound clime due south of Argentina.

Mars-like, you say? Well, consider this: Temperatures in some parts of the White Continent have been known to dip below minus 60 degrees, while in other parts the thermometer never climbs above minus 30. In fact, icy conditions here are so similar to those on Mars that NASA used Antarctica to test equipment for its Viking Mars missions.

If dodging icebergs in sub-zero weather is your cup of tea, you'll be happy to know that Norwegian Coastal Voyage Expeditions is hosting Antarctica cruises from Buenos Aires beginning in November aboard the MS Nordkapp and MS Nordnorge. The boats, each built within the last 10 years, are limited to 350 persons and have Jacuzzis, saunas, suites, lounges, Internet cafes, and more. The 15-day adventure cruises take voyagers to the world's southernmost city, Ushuaia, Argentina; through dramatic Drake's Passage; the Antarctic Peninsula's polar landscapes; desolate Cape Horn; the Strait of Magellan; and the rugged, fjord-filled Chilean coast. Depending on weather, landings in Antarctica include Paradise Harbor, Half Moon, and the Cuverville Islands. There'll also be plenty of opportunities to sail past ice bergs and glaciers and to get a close up look at penguins, elephant seals, and seabirds. Prices start at $4,980 (per person double occupancy) and include Lan flights from New York to Buenos Aires plus five-star hotel stay in Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, and Santiago. For more information, call 800/323-7436 or 212/319-1300.

Just Back From Québec City

Editorial director Linda Cabasin spent five music-filled days in Québec City earlier this month. She explored the cobblestone streets of Vieux-Québec during the day and at night attended the Festival d'Été de Québec (Québec City Summer Festival), an exuberant outdoor celebration of French and world music.

Why Québec City?

The combination of music and setting was unbeatable. The Summer Festival offered a mind-expanding lineup (I knew only a few performers), from Montréal pop-punk group Simple Plan to Algerian-French rock and rai singer Rachid Taha, who had everyone dancing at the Parc de la Francophonie. As for the setting, the concerts were just outside the romantic, walled old town, which overlooks the St. Laurent River.

What surprised you?

It was easy to walk from concert to concert each night, sampling the three outdoor stages and street performances on rue St-Jean. The Summer Festival is large---45,000 people watched Simple Plan on the Plains of Abraham---but the venues were a 10- or 15-minute walk apart. My festival button (a bargain at US $16.50 for 11 days) admitted me at any time. The mostly local crowd was all ages and totally mellow. And since music really is a universal language, I didn't need to understand French (or the Spanish of Lila Downs or Ojos de Brujo) to appreciate the performers.

What was essential during your trip?

Comfortable shoes. Not just for the performances, but because I couldn't stop walking around Québec City. Inside the walls, each turn revealed tidy parks, local crafts shops or boutiques, quiet churches---and sometimes busloads of tourists! Dufferin Terrace in the Upper Town had awesome river and mountain views, and I walked down the Escalier Casse-Cou (Breakneck Steps) to the Lower Town and historic Place Royale. The distances aren't great, but they add up. The funicular took me back to the Upper Town if I wore down.

What were your favorite finds?

At a Lower Town wine bar on a narrow street called Cul de Sac, I sat outside and cooled off with Québec beer and tangy local cheeses. It was a perfect break. And at the Musée de la Civilisation (Museum of Civilization), the exhibit "People of Québec, Now and Then" put everything I saw in the city into better perspective. Displays and videos with news clips and interviews gave a quick, provocative history of Québec Province from its French colonial days to its separatist fervor in the late 20th century.

What advice do you have for someone going to Québec City?

My instinct is to avoid cities when big festivals are going on, but I'd recommend a trip during the Summer Festival or another event here. It doesn't matter if you don't know the musicians. Check the festival Web site in advance, then go and have fun. Or try the Winter Carnival to see how Canadians play in the cold. It's easy to fit in other activities around the events. Just make room reservations two or three months in advance or you'll have to stay farther from the city center.

Photo 1: Linda is in front of the Hotel Château Frontenac in Lower Town.

Photo 2: Shops along the Rue du Petit-Champlain.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Prague
  
• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Flying with Kids? Read This First

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Anyone who has ever flown with a small child can attest to the challenges. Take one toddler, put him in an enclosed space, make him sit still for three or more hours, and voila: unhappy camper.

Still, it is possible to navigate the friendly skies with child and your sanity. It's mostly a matter of thinking ahead.

For starters, reserve early. Not only will you get a better seat---preferably together (unless you were secretly hoping to seat the kids elsewhere)---but you'll also reduce your odds of getting bumped since unassigned passengers are usually the first to go.

Think about getting everyone a seat, too. Though children under age two can sit on a parent's lap, it's ill advised, if not for safety, than for convenience. "My kids were so used to sitting in their seats in the car," says my friend Tammy, "that it never dawned on them to ask to get out." Some airlines, such as American, offer discounts for the under-2 set, so ask when making reservations.

As for where to sit: some parents swear by the infamous bulkhead seats with that smidgen of extra legroom. The downside is that there's no under-seat storage, which means you'll have to jump up every time you want to retrieve something from your bag. Some airlines only dole them out at the gate, others pre-assign bulkheads for frequent fliers, but it never hurts to ask.

Some other tricks of air travel:

Be prepared: Bring an extra set of clothes for parent and child, and a plastic bag for the dirty ones. Pack more diapers and wipes than you think you'll need. I once used my entire supply waiting through a lengthy flight delay.

Feed 'em: Snacks and drinks and a few treats will keep your novice flier happy with minimal reliance on flight attendants. Bring something to suck or chew on (bottles and pacifiers for little ones) for pressure changes during takeoff and landing. Keep a tight lid on beverage-service drinks by packing sippy cups from home. Food service has been diminished drastically since the old days. You can always ask in advance about the rare on-board kids' meal (although expect to be laughed at).

Keep 'em busy: On board entertainment options have improved with satellite TV on many carriers (check the entertainment schedule on your home computer before flying), but the fare is not always appropriate for kids. Better yet, be crafty. Bring crayons, markers, coloring books, paper, pens, and pencils. Want to make your pre-schooler really happy? Bring Scotch Tape. My kids spent an entire three-hour flight creating tape-sculptures. Decks of cards and favorite books are great time passers, as are personal music players and books on tape. Travel games are a bonus, but beware of those "Pop-o-Matic" gizmos that rattle the passenger in front of you every time you press down. Wrap a few inexpensive trinkets to hand out as gifts at desperate moments.

Make pit stops: Hit the bathroom before the "Fasten Seatbelt Sign" is lit for the last time. The time between initial descent and arrival at the gate can be an eternity---especially if your potty-training toddler has to go to the bathroom.

Arrive early: You definitely don't want to try and sprint through the airport with bags and kids. In the same vein: ensure when making reservations that you have ample time between connections.

Avoid spills: Don't order anything red or purple unless it's in a sippy cup. This includes tomato juice, Bloody Marys, red wine, and even colas.

Keep a tight rein: It's one thing to take your child for a walk down the aisle, another to let him run loose. Air travelers generally frown on children staring at them while they're trying to sleep---or torturing them with endless unsolicited games of peek-a-boo. And please . . . no kicking the seat back.

Finally, if you've done everything and still can't tame your savage beast, take heart. True, you may get some withering stares as your little one tests his lung capacity, but you're doing your best. And even if your fellow passengers don't have children of their own, those passengers were kids themselves once---probably.

Now it's time for that glass of wine---just remember to get white.

Fuss-Free Family Reunions

by Lisa Oppenheimer

On paper, it was a brilliant idea. My brother and I, residents of opposite coasts, planned a family reunion several years ago that would allow spouses and children to get to know each other. A theme park would be perfect. We'd ride the rides by day, enjoy quiet time with wine and cheese by night. What is it they say about the best-laid plans?

On our first day at California's Legoland, we waited 45 minutes together for our inaugural ride. That was the last time we saw each other. Four children with multiple interests kept our families apart virtually the rest of the trip. And we made a crucial error: We didn't share accommodations, which kept us from even catching up at bedtime. Meaningful conversations? They took place late at night---via telephone. For that, I could have stayed home and forked over a nickel a minute to Verizon.

It's not that our little rendezvous was bad, it just wasn't the warm, fuzzy gathering we'd hoped for. While it would seem that reunions require no more than finding the place and assembling the family in it, there is really more of a science to it than that. The following are some things to keep in mind if you're planning a reunion:

Ponder the Age Spread

"You want to go somewhere that has activities for all ages," says Pam Brown, a specialist in family reunions at Gatherings Plus (reunionpro.com) in Branson, Missouri.

Our first mistake, she says, was failing to take into account the age spread of our charges. Two school-aged girls (mine) and two preschool boys (theirs) meant widely divergent theme-park interests---not to mention height restrictions. Rides that were suitable for the younger ones were deemed "boring" by the others. And who could begrudge any of them skipping long lines that held no reward at the other end?

A better idea would have been a more placid environment---a beach, perhaps---that we could have enjoyed as a group. However, as Brown concurs, you don't want to overdo the group dynamic, either. If you have everyone in the same place all the time, you're going to get sick of each other.

A more successful gathering would have built-in options for different ages, with set meeting times for the group. A theme park might work as a day trip for teens who can go off on their own. You might take young children to the zoo, older children to a water park, and then meet up later for dinner.

Consider a Villa

You'll see each other most if you share the same accommodations. But such closed quarters can be tricky. Sharing one roof, depending on the size of your group, might be best accomplished at some sort of a villa. Sure, it's a splurge. But in Jamaica, for example, many multi-bedroom villas come with pool and staff (food, laundry, etc.), satisfying myriad requirements. That you'll likely be removed from the cloistered resort atmosphere (as most villas are) might make some visitors uncomfortable.

Closer to home, many a reunion has been staged in and around Walt Disney World. Mickey himself rents out villas for up to 12 travelers in two on-site timeshare properties (just be sure to take into account the above tips for theme-park visiting). You'll get a kitchen and laundry plus resort perks.

Many such setups exist in lake districts around the country. Woodloch Pines, in the Poconos, rents two- to five-bedroom houses as well as more traditional hotel rooms (homes are about two miles away from the resort; call 800/572—6658 for information). You also will find limitless online listings for villas and other domiciles. Some companies will weed through this information for you. At Cyberrentals.com, for example, you can search for available properties worldwide.

If you do go villa, decide in advance who gets the master suite. If you cannot reach a decision, donate it to some of the older kids; among other things, you'll love the fact that their war-torn bathroom will be blissfully out of sight.

Reunion Rules

No matter what you do, consider the following advice.

Integrate down time. Swimming holes---pool, ocean, puddle---are perfect spots for grownups to catch up while kids entertain themselves (with supervision, of course). For especially large groups, Brown likes to book a hospitality room as neutral territory where the gang can retreat to eat, gab, and relax.

The latter, of course, will require a caterer---and a hotel. True, the hotel route might detract from the homey feel of family-style meals around the table, but it also eliminates arguments over who does the cooking, grocery shopping, and cleaning. "Doing all the work," says Brown, "is a great way to ruin a vacation."

Strive for equidistance. It might not always be possible. But it will be worth it to keep Uncle George from seething because he flew seven connections from Maine while Aunt Martha drove only six miles from Dubuque.

Arrange child care. You want to keep kids entertained, or they're going to drive everybody nuts. Enough said.

Plan ahead. If you want to see a show and you're planning to sit with your relatives (rather than alongside the beer-scented man with the postnasal drip), you need to book the seats well in advance. Brown books hotels, flights, and other arrangements months, even years, ahead; she and other service providers can keep you posted about tickets for activities and attractions as they become available.

Bring mementos and photos to create a family tree. Assemble the tree in a common area, such as a hospitality room. It will be a blast to create and look at throughout the reunion. Before you all scatter to the four winds, you can make a family activity out of turning the tree into a souvenir book and then photocopying it for everyone. If you have the opportunity to develop photos shot during the reunion before you all disperse, all the better to add these to the scrapbook.

Shoot a good group photo. Amateur shutterbugs are fine, but chipping in for the hiring of a professional photographer is money well spent.

15 Top Shops in Montreal

There's never a bad time to shop in Montreal. During the typically harsh Canadian winter, Montrealers escape to the Cite Souterrain, a 7-square block "underground city" in downtown. Come spring and summer, avid shoppers head aboveground to scour the boutiques for all that the city's youthful creative scene has to offer---avant-garde fashions, hand-crafted jewelry, antiques, leather goods, and sleek home furnishings.

Garments & Fancy Footwear

The cutting-edge fashions sold at Scandale are all originals created on-site by Quebecois designer Georges Levesque. In keeping with the name, the window displays are always lurid. 3639 blvd. St-Laurent. 514/842-4707.

The three expert kiltmakers on hand at Chas. Johnson & Sons can cut any tartan to any size. The shop also rents Highland formal gear for all occasions and sells sporrans, skean-dhus, doublets, and day jackets, as well as a full line of classic British menswear. 1184 Phillips Pl. 514/878-1931.

Jean Airoldi, the shop that bears the name of one of Quebec's most talented clothing designers, specializes in classic yet chic women's fashions. Made-to-measure is available. 4455 rue St-Denis. 514/287-6524.

As its name suggests, Deuxieme Peau (Second Skin) sells lingerie so fine you don't notice you're wearing it. While you're feeling brave and beautiful, kill two birds with one stone and try on a bathing suit. 4457 rue St-Denis. 514/842-0811.

In business for about 50 years, Boutique Encore has retained its popularity by maintaining a good selection of designer labels. Although best known for its nearly new women's fashions, it also includes the big names for men. 2165 rue Crescent. 514/849-0092.

Browns is a local institution that stocks fashion footwear, handbags, and accessories for men and women. As well as the store's own label, it stocks such well-known brands as Manolo Blahnik, Prada, Chanel, DKNY, Costume National, Dolce Gabana, Christian Dior, and Tods. 1191 rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. 514/987-1206.

Smelly Stuff

The soaps, shampoos, and body lotions on offer at Bella Pella are all handmade by area artisans, using organic ingredients such as olive oil, goats' milk, and cranberries. 3933 rue St-Denis. 514/845-7328.

Child's Play

Cutesy Oink Oink carries fashions as well as toys and books for infants and children. It's fun to hear the staff answer the phone. 1343 av. Greene. 514/939-2634.

At Cerf Volanterie, you can pick up a sturdy, gloriously colored kite built by craftsman Claude Thibaudeau. He signs the kites and guarantees them for three years. Visits are by appointment only. 2019 Moreau. 514/845-7613.

Home Interiors

In business since 1983, Antiquities Phyllis Friedman specializes in 17th- to 19th-century English and European antiques. Offerings include English hunt tables, Empire-style nightstands, Anglo-Irish glass, ceramics, and crystal. 1476 rue Sherbrooke Ouest. 514/935-1991.

Nostalgic for the 1950s? Cite Deco is just the place to pick up a chrome-and-Arborite dining-room set and an RCA tube radio. It also has art deco furnishings and accessories from the '30s and '40s. 1761 rue Amherst. 514/528-0659.

Ruth Stalker made her reputation finding and salvaging fine pieces of early-Canadian pine furniture, but she has also developed a good instinct for such folk art as exquisitely carved hunting decoys, weather vanes, and pottery. 4447 rue Ste-Catherine Ouest. 514/931-0822.

The Written Word

With its selection of imported and handmade papers, L'Essence du Papier is a reminder that letter-writing can be an art form. Here, scribblers can finds pens, as well as waxes and stamps with which to seal their romantic prose. 4160 rue St-Denis. 514/288-9691.

Stubbornly independent until 2003 when it was bought out by Archambault, a Montréal chain of music stores, Paragraphe carries the usual selection of best sellers and thrillers, but also stocks Canadian works and histories. 2220 av. McGill College. 514/845-5811.

Deep in the McGill University neighborhood, The Word is a timeless shop with sagging shelves that specializes in used books on art, philosophy, and literature. The owner here tallies his bills by hand. 469 rue Milton. 514/845-5640.

Offbeat New England Getaways

Innkeepers these days are resorting to increasingly dotty measures to lure customers. In fact, the New England Inns and Resorts Association recently bestowed honors upon some of the more creative "packages" that B&B owners in their region have devised to drum up business. Here are a few of the more memorable ones:

At Dunes on the Waterfront, in Ogunquit, Maine, travelers can sign up for the Lights, Camera, Action package, wherein a "cameraman" with a videocam follows guests around and "unobtrusively" records their vacation. The resulting DVD is sent to guests two weeks later. The three-night package is available in September and starts at $399 per person (including DVD), double occupancy.

Guests at Avon Old Farms Hotel, in Avon, Connecticut, can go on a treasure hunt in the surrounding countryside in search of various objects that, when found, result in 5% discounts per object on the nightly room rate. The items in question aren't too exotic, though we admit we'd be hardpressed to identify such things as "rubbings from an 18th-century gravestone" and a "signature from the town auctioneer." The Farmington Valley Treasure Adventure Package starts at $199 per night.

Our personal favorite is the Tax & Relax Package at the Dutch Iris Inn in Granby, Connecticut (pictured). For a mere $249 per night you can stay in this handsome Colonial-style mansion and have your taxes done by a CPA while you nosh on canapes and sip sherry. What could possibly be more civilized? If the news is good and a hefty refund is on the way, treat yourself to a massage and sauna. If the news is bad, you can draw the black-out curtains in your room and immerse yourself in hours of mindless digital cable.

Guests of The Colonnade Hotel in Boston may wish for a sudden cold snap when they sign up for Summer Meltdown Package. Guests pay $225 for the second night, and the equivalent dollar value of the outside temperature on their first night (so, if it's 90 degrees outside, the cost is $90). The package is available through September 4, 2005.

Travelers can entertain their inner chef when they sign up for the Chef for a Day Package at the Woodstock Inn & Resort in Woodstock, Vermont. The idea here is that guests get to hover alongside the resort's chefs as they prepare the dining room's nightly dinners (we wonder if the proprietor's insurance carrier knows about this). The package is available year-round and starts at $693 per person. Bon appetit!

Edinburgh Fringe Festival

Underground medieval grottos, an elevator, a department store, and Room 206 of the Caledonian Hilton Hotel are just a few of the unorthodox venues of the 58th Annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Performing in non-traditional spaces blurs distinctions between performers and audiences, resulting in a powerful intimacy for both.

The Fringe website features comprehensive listings of all of the festival's offerings plus information on purchasing tickets. Here are a few things you won't want to miss:

Carey Marx swears that his one-man show Marry Me is more sophisticated than the sordid world of reality television's shotgun weddings. Marx's chaotic dating life is the show's fodder, and according to his website, the show is "a tasteful endeavor being carried out by someone who can be quite tasteless." August 4-28, 7 p.m., The Underbelly.

Jim Crace's novel, The Devil's Larder, serves up 64 short fictions intent on showcasing culinary indulgences and the many constructions of the human appetite. The sensual storytelling will be brought to life for the stage promenade-style at Debenham's department store by Edinburgh-based Grid Iron Company. August 9-28, 8:15 p.m., Debenham's at 109 Prince Street.

In dance troupe CoisCéim's Chamber Made the audience should enjoy "peeking in" on the lives of six guests in Room 206. The close-quartered venue is as voyeuristic as it gets. Buy tickets early. August 20-27 (times vary), Room 206 of the Caledonian Hilton Hotel.

Making use of her inherited funny gene, Rain Pryor, daughter of comedian Richard Pryor, takes to the stage in her one-woman comedy show, Fried Chicken and Latkes. August 4-28, 8 p.m., Smirnoff Baby Belly.---Katie Hamlin

Photo Credit: Courtesy of the Fringe Festival

Edinburgh International Festival

Though some shows have already sold out, seats are still available for most performances (tickets can be purchased on the festival website). Fifty seats will be held for 5£ each hour before the start of every festival event. Tickets for selected events can also be purchased in advance at a reduced price of 5£ for youths aged 16-26.

Here's a sampling of the festival offerings:

Theatre

Shan Kahn's Prayer Room, performed by the Birmingham Repertory Theatre Company, has been the focus of media attention because of its subject matter. Attempting to share a multi-faith prayer room of a British college, a group of Jews, Muslims, and Christians struggle over issues of power, space, and voice. August 22-28, 7:30 p.m.; August 27, 2:30 p.m. Royal Lyceum Theatre.

Fifteen years after the end of an affair, an adulterous couple must reunite in David Harrower's Blackbird, an Edinburgh International Festival Production. The influential German director Peter Stein, who headed the 2003 festival production of The Seagull, leads this "darkly intense" production. August 15-24, 7:30 p.m.; August 20, 2:30; King's Theatre.

Chiew Siah Tei's Three Thousand Troubled Threads depicts the world of a young second-generation Chinese girl struggling against the conflicting influences of her cultural heritage and Glasgow society. Performed by the Stellar Quines Theatre Company, the play explores these issues through her relationships with her Slovakian boyfriend, her mother, and her Italian boss. August 31-September 3, 7:30 p.m., Royal Lyceum Theatre.

When John Millington Synge's The Playboy of the Western World was first performed in 1907, audience members responded with hissing and rioting. Synge infuriated Irish patriots with his crude portrayal of the Irish peasantry. Over time, the works of the Irish dramatist have earned him more admirers than enemies. This year the festival will feature a marathon retrospective of all six of Synge's plays. On three occasions, the whole lot can be seen in one day. All shows at King's Theatre. The complete series: August 27, 31, September 3.

Emerald Isle Getaways Starting at $179

It's never too late to start dreaming about the perfect Emerald Isle getaway. Aer Lingus is making it easier than ever to visit Ireland with terrific one-way fares starting at $179 from Boston and $189 from New York to Shannon or Dublin.

These one-way fares are available exclusively through Aerlingus, must be booked by August 1, 2005 and are for travel in September and October only.

$199/Boston Sept. 6 - Sept. 30
$179/Boston Oct. 1 - Oct. 15

$229/NYC Sept. 5 - Sept. 30
$189/NYC Oct. 1 - Oct. 15

Palm Beach: Splurge and Save at The Breakers

It seems like every town in America near a beach has a hotel called The Breakers. There's really only one The Breakers worth mentioning, however, and it's the spectacle of gilt and ormolu that Standard Oil magnate Henry Flagler built in Palm Beach in 1896.

On the National Register of Historic Places, this opulent 560-room, Italian Renaissance-style resort, sitting on 140 ocean-front acres, has cupids frolicking in Florentine fountains, majestic frescoes, soothing gardens, and glitteringchandeliers. It's Jay Gatsby's image of luxe Europa, only in Palm Beach.

You can sample the good life, too, with the resort's summer promotion, running now through September 30, 2005. For a three- or four-night stay in a standard superior room you pay $209 per night (a 27% savings). Stay five nights or more and the room rate drops to $189 (a 34% savings). A premium full oceanfront room (pictured right), priced for summer at $390 per night on stays of one to two nights is discounted to $356 per night for a three- or four-night stay, and then drops to $322 for stays of five nights or more.

The Breakers's promotion also includes complimentary spa fitness classes and tennis court fees as well as reduced golf rates at two courses. Guests can also enjoy 20% off dinner checks at The Breakers's exceptional restaurants L'Escalier, The Flagler Steakhouse, and Echo, as well as a 20% discount on Sunday brunch at The Circle (pictured right).

An Italian Renaissance treasure like The Breakers hardly seems like a family destination, but the resort's Family Entertainment Center upends expectations with a games arcade, toddler's playroom, a children's movie room, and a computer X-box room featuring desktop PCs and child-friendly games.

For reservations and additional information, call 1-888-273-2537 or visit www.thebreakers.com.

On the Go with the Go Card

If you're traveling to Boston, Chicago, Orlando, San Francisco, San Diego, or Seattle this summer, don't go without the Go Card. Think of it as the Whitman Sampler of attraction passes. One price lets you taste dozens of major sights in each city, from the most popular to the most obscure. The card is available for 1, 2, 3, 5, or 7 days, depending on the length of your stay (lack of interest in 4- and 6-day cards resulted in their demise), and there are discount cards for children. Sample sights for the Go San Francisco Card include the SF Museum of Modern Art, a Golden Gate Bay Cruise, the Asian Art Museum, and Six Flags Marine World, among many others. With the Go Boston Card you gain access to all major museums, historic sites like the Freedom Trail, and attractions such as Six Flags New England and Zoo New England. Prices for each card vary by city and each card is good for 20% discounts at select restaurants and stores. Go Cards are available on-line (you pay for shipping) or at city tourist offices or visitor bureaus.

One day sample prices for the Go Card
Boston $45
Chicago $39
Orlando $79
San Francisco $44
San Diego $39 (available June 10)
Seattle $39

Ireland Souvenir Shopping Made Easy

There's nothing like a souvenir to capture the essence of a great trip, but a trinket you picked up randomly on a three-hour tour might not cut it. If you're headed to the Emerald Isle soon, pass over the cheesy gifts of the four-leaf clover and leprechaun variety. Here are some souvenir ideas unique to Ireland that will leave you with fond memories of your trip:

1. Wooly Wear

Have your heart set on a traditional Aran Island sweater? Most of the Aran Sweaters in Ireland are made in County Donegal, the area most associated with high-quality, hand-woven tweeds and hand-knit items. A visit to any of the Aran Islands, however, will yield plenty of opportunities for the genuine article. If you're pressed for time, you can pick one up at Blarney Woolen Mills, a massive shop convenient to the Blarney Castle, which sells everything from Irish-made high fashion to Aran hand-knit items to leprechaun key rings. (Blarney, Co. Cork, 021/438 5280)

2. Your "Special Occasion" Crystal

Waterford Crystal is readily available in both Europe and the U.S., but for lovers of the high-grade glass a stop at the Waterford Glass Factory is a must. There, you can see master craftspeople at work, fashioning the molten glass, blowing it into bulbous shapes, and then cutting and carving the light-catching facets that make the crystal so unique. The showroom displays an extensive selection of Waterford crystal and Wedgwood china. (Cork Rd., Kilbarry, 353 51/332500)

3. Heraldic Crests

If you have Irish roots, you can learn all about your name and buy an item with its heraldic crest---from key rings to crystal to sweaters---at Killarney's House of Names (Kenmare Pl., Killarney, Co. Kerry, 064/36320).

With a little research you might be able to track more detailed info about your family history. The National Library in Dublin is the best source of information on family names and family crests, and the consultancy service is free. Similarly, the Office of the Registrar General in Dublin's Custom House has details of many births, deaths, and marriages after 1864, and some marriages dating back to 1845. Of course, if your great-grandfather's name was Blarney Killakalarney you should have an easy time sleuthing your family roots. But if your name is one of the more prominent surnames in Ireland, it may take you longer to track down your ancestors among all of the Ahernes and O'Briens.

4. Something Crafty and Creative

The area around the Southeast's Kilkenny is well-stocked with small and large shops featuring various forms of ceramics and hand-blown glass.

Nicholas Mosse Pottery is the best name in Irish ceramics. Nicholas first set up his potter's wheel in an old flour mill in this quiet village (set 10 miles south of Kilkenny) in 1975. Since then, the business has boomed and the rustic floral-pattern pottery created here is instantly recognizable for its "spongeware" designs. A visit here allows you to see the pottery being made, and the adjoining factory shop often has good bargains. (Bennettsbridge, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-7505)

You can see glass being blown at the Jerpoint Glass Studio, where the glass is heavy, modern, uncut, and hand-finished. The studio's factory shop is a good place to pick up a bargain. (Stoneyford, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-4350)

The town's leading outlet, the Kilkenny Design Centre, in the old stable yard opposite the castle, sells ceramics, jewelry, sweaters, and hand-woven textiles. (Kilkenny Castle, Co. Kilkenny, 056/772-2118)

5. Irish Lit

Ireland produced four Nobel literature laureates in under 75 years. If you're at all interested in modern and contemporary literature, you'll be spoiled by the many independent bookshops that dot the country. Kenny's Bookshop, featuring five floors of books is one of the best. A Galway institution, Kenny's is presided over by octogenarian Maureen Kenny, who has a smile for everyone. She and her late husband started the business in 1940. (High St., Galway City, 091/562-739)

6. A Souvenir to Hang

When giving visitors "the tour" of your home, wouldn't it be nice to say, "We were fortunate to find this piece on our trip to Ireland."

Kenmare Art Gallery has a good selection of works by contemporary artists. (Bridge St., Kenmare, Co. Kerry, 064/4299)

Original Print Gallery, in an ultramodern building by the same prominent Dublin architect who designed Temple Bar Gallery, specializes in handmade limited editions of prints by Irish artists. (4 Temple Bar, Dublin, 677/3657)

The Lavit Gallery in Cork sells work by members of the Cork Arts Society and other Irish artists. (5 Father Mathew St., off South Mall, City Center South, 021/427-7749)

7. Dublin: Ireland's Milan

There are a great many sophisticated boutiques in Dublin, most of them in the city's central shopping area.

Costume is a classy boutique where Dubliners with fashion sense and money like to shop for colorful, stylish clothes. Local designers include Leigh, Helen James, and Antonia Campbell-Hughes are among the international designers featured. (10 Castel Market, 01/679-4188)

Jenny Vander is the most famous name in Irish vintage and retro clothing. Just browsing through her collection is a pleasure. (Georges Street Arcade, 01/677-0406)

8. An Irish Pinocchio

While touring Belfast, stop by Open Window Productions to buy 12-inch-high puppets of Northern Ireland politicians. For £175, you can have a puppet made to order of a favorite celebrity, or even of yourself. (1-3 Exchange Pl., 028/9032-9669)

9. All Things Guinness

Ireland's all-dominating brewery---founded by Arthur Guinness in 1759---spans a 60-acre spread west of Christ Church Cathedral. Not surprisingly, the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse is the most popular tourist destination in town. The brewery itself is closed to the public, but the Guinness Storehouse is a spectacular attraction, designed to woo you with the wonders of the "dark stuff." (St. James' Gate, Dublin, 01/408-4800)

10. Gifts for Golfers

A set of golf balls imprinted with the crest of any of Ireland's "Big Four" golf courses (Ballybunion, Royal County Down, Royal Portrush, and Portmarnock Golf Clubs) is a thoughtful gift for the golf enthusiast.

Cheap Sleeps in an Irish Castle

Today's travelers are increasingly hungry for new and unusual places to rest their heads while on the road. In Montreal, for instance, you can stay overnight in a one-time prison, and apparently tree houses are all the rage in Zambia. We're all for exotic lodgings, but only if the place has a few creature comforts. American Airlines Vacations is aware of the trend for novelty lodgings. This summer and fall, AAVAcations wants to send you to Ireland to stay in one of four renovated Irish castles, and for less than you'd expect to pay at most three-star hotels. Here's the skinny:

Kilkea Castle, Kildare: Built in 1180, the Kilkea is the oldest inhabited castle in Ireland. But don't let all the history scare you off---you can expect to find all the amenities and comforts of home while here, from fine dining to a complete leisure center with swimming pool, sauna, gym, steam room, golf, tennis, and more.
3 days/2 nights from $278*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 9/30/05

Waterford Castle Hotel and Golf Club, Ballinakill: The antiques, period decor, and delicate details of this magnificent castle will captivate the imagination. The Great Hall and the drawing room have fine oak paneling, ornate antique furniture, and tapestries. Guest rooms are luxuriously decorated and have four-poster beds. Enjoy country-style cuisine at the Munster Room restaurant, adorned with oak furniture and deep-burgundy Donegal carpet.
3 days/2 nights from $557*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 10/31/05

Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus: Dromoland Castle Estate is one of the world's finest castle hotels, a secluded property majestically set on more than 410 acres of breathtaking scenery. Guests enjoy deluxe accommodations, sample fine food and wine, unwind in superb health and leisure facilities, or play golf on a championship golf course.
3 days/2 nights from $585*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid now through 9/30/05

Cahernane House Hotel, Killarney: Cahernane House sits on the edge of Killarney National Park, an area of outstanding beauty. This graceful and stately home is brimming with historic character. Recent restorations have successfully combined elegant luxury with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Rooms are tastefully designed with antique furniture, private balconies, and Jacuzzis.
3 days/2 nights from $317*
Includes Irish Breakfast Daily
Valid 7/1/05-9/30/05

* Pricing provided by AA Vacations (www.AAVacations.com). Price is per person, double occupancy; land only, not including airfare.

Travelers can contact their travel agent or American Airlines Vacations directly at 1-800-321-2121 or visit www.AAVacations.com to search for and book the best bargains and promotions.

Hoist Big Brews on Original Ireland Pub Tour

What are you doing in November? Dodging rain drops and noshing on parched turkey in Aunt Ethel's overheated living room? How about something different, like a pub tour of Galway and Dublin?

Don't laugh. Hundreds do it every year. The tour, sponsored by Aer Lingus, starts in historic Galway and wends its way through watering holes and fishing villages in Connemara and the Burren region before ending in Ireland's capital city, Dublin, where you can hoist pints in canteens around lovely Georgian Square and the Temple Bar district before sampling Dublin's fine restaurants, cafes, and nightclubs.

Aer Lingus's Original Pub Tour is $599 per person (double occupancy) for four nights and includes hotel, private luxury coach, sightseeing, two dinners, and daily Irish breakfast. Organizers promise only the best pubs from West to East, and highlights include a visit to the Guinness Brewery, where intrepid dipsomaniacs learn "to pour the perfect pint."

Additional highlights include a detour to the Cliffs of Moher, which stand 700 feet above the Atlantic Ocean, offering spectacular views of the sea and Galway Bay; an excursion through the Burren region, the coastline famous for its rock gardens and breathtaking natural landscape; and stops in plenty of quaint seaside villages and historic towns from Galway to Dublin.

Departure dates for the tour are November 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 26, and 28. All travel is for November and must commence from either New York or Boston.

Arrangements (for $25) can also be made through Aerpackages concierge service on 1-800-495-1632

Come Back to Croatia

With three major arts festivals in July and August, Croatia is more than just a hot destination for sun-seekers. While some would-be visitors remain sceptical of the Mediterranean gem because of its bloody civil war, the region's popular summer festivals speak to the strength of Croatia's recovery. From film festivals to live music, theater, and dance, Croatia is fast becoming one of Europe's hottest cultural tickets.

52nd Pula Film Festival, July 16-23

While it has juggled a variety of titles over the years, the Pula Film Festival has survived by reflecting the changing interests of an increasingly global-minded Croatia. The film festival offers Croatian features in addition to many recent international films. Pula's Vespasius amphitheatre (top), a 2000-year-old Roman coliseum, becomes an open-air movie theater during the festival, with more than 5,000 seats available for nightly screenings. Time Machine, a program that considers the value of restored Yugoslav film, offers plenty of new releases. In the short film category, festivalgoers will surely line up to see Destino, a collaboration between Walt Disney and Salvador Dali that was begun more than 60 years ago but only recently completed.

Dubrovnik's 56th Annual Summer Festival, July 10-August 25

The southern outpost of Dubrovnik gets the bulk of visitors to Croatia, and with good reason. The well-preserved medieval fortresses and ramparts of the city are the kind of dramatic backdrops that camera-toting tourists love. During the country's most famous arts festival these architectural treasures serve as settings for theater and classical music performances. One venue, the Rector's Palace Atrium (above), the site of a concert by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra on August 22, impresses with its grand entryway and clear acoustics. Notable performers include world-famous violinist Midori, singer Ramon Vargas, and mezzo-soprano Marjana Lipousek.

51st Split Summer Festival , July 14- August 14

The Croatian National Theatre annually hosts a popular international arts festival in Split, a harbor city located along the Adriatic coast. The city turns into one large open-air stage throughout the festival, which features opera, classical music, drama, and dance. The revelry should be heightened slightly at this year's festival as the city of Split is celebrating its 1700th birthday. Several of the festival's highlights take place along the colonnade-lined pedestrian thoroughfares of Roman Emperor Diocletian's palace (right), built around 30 AD. The festival's theatre offerings include such well-known plays as Tennessee Williams' Night of the Iguana, Tolstoy's Anna Karenina, and Gabriel Garcíá Márquez' No One Writes to the Colonel.

Up for a Croatian Road Trip?:

The Zagreb-Split Highway connecting the north and south of Croatia has recently opened for travel. From end to end, the 380-kilometer (236 miles) drive takes an average of 31 hours and costs 157 Kuna ($25) in tolls.---Katie Hamlin
Thinking of heading off to Croatia? Check out the advice of Fodorites who've already been:

Croatia 19-Day Itinerary---Advice?
Croatia--To Drive or Not to Drive?
Trip Report- Croatia and Slovenia
Trip Report (Split, Hvar, Dubrovnik)

Photo credits: 1) Courtesy of the Croatian National Tourism Board 2) Courtesy of the Dubrovnik Summer festival 3) Courtesy of the Croatian National Tourism Board

One Thousand Feet Over Florida---In a Balloon

It's hard to imagine a more inspiring way to see Central Florida than to see it from 1,000 feet up in a hot-air balloon. Bob's Balloons offers one-hour rides over protected marsh land in Central Florida, near Disney World (if wind and weather conditions are right, he'll fly over the park). You meet in Lake Buena Vista at dawn, where Bob and his assistant take you by van to the launch site. It takes about 15 minutes to get the balloon in the air and then you're off. The view is amazing, taking in farm and forest land for miles around. Bob may take you as high as 1,000 feet, from which point you'll be able to see various Disney landmarks. Afterward, Bob and Mike treat you to a lovely champagne picnic brunch (minus coffee, so don't forget to have a cup before you leave). For more information, check out Bob's website or call 407/466--6380. ---Emmanuelle Alspaugh

10 Prague Shopping Gems

Sightseeing and shopping go hand in hand in Prague, thanks to the concentration of tourist must-dos and specialty shops in the streets of Old Town, Staré Mesto. While visitors might be overwhelmed by the siege of tourist-targeted shops and stalls selling everything from marionettes to beer mugs, there are real shopping gems lodged in-between. Bohemian crystal and porcelain deservedly enjoy a worldwide reputation for quality, and plenty of shops offer excellent bargains.

Garments and Garb

The darling of stylish Czech fashion, Klára Nademlýnská sells both funky and conservative clothes -- everything from pin-stripe suits to floor-length halter dresses -- in her Old Town boutique. Don't overlook the accessories case, which displays inexpensive costume jewelry. The store changes as often as the styles do, so look out for great end-of-the-season sales. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Dlouhá 3. 224-188-769.

Whether you're looking for a black-silk obi, or a red corsage the size of a man's fist, Tatiana has great accessories. Designer Tatiana Kovaríková's specialty, however, is sexy evening and party wear; occasionally, you can find a piece or two that you can wear in view of your boss. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A: Staromestská. Dusní 1. 224-934-850.

Nicole Kidman donned a crystal dress, while Yves Saint Laurent sported a crystal heart for the cover of Vogue -- both, of course, came from Bohemian jewelry designer Swarovksi Bohemia. Mid-range prices make this a must if you're a jewelry aficionado. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A or B: Mustek. Celetná 11. 222-315-585.

Founded in 1894 in Bohemia, Bat'a has grown to be the largest shoe retailer in the world, which is recorded by the Guinness Book of World Records. Pumps, sneakers, boots, loafers, flip-flops -- there are shoes for every occasion and for every foot size. There's also a branch in Nový Smíchov mall (Plzenská 8, Smíchov, Metro: Line B: Andél. PHONE: 251-512-847). Nové Mesto. Metro: Line A or B: Mustek. Václavské námestí 6. 224-218-133.

Home Interiors

For original fashions for the home, open-minded decorators can head to Qubus Design. Here they'll find plenty of funky decorative items, sleek serving platters, and fun gizmos, like Yin-and-Yang salt-and-pepper shakers. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Rámová 3. 222-313-151.

Antiques are stuffed on the shelves and even hang from the ceiling at the Bric a Brac. The cluttered shop is filled with small treasures such as a black-and-white picture book of Czech landmarks in Chicago (who knew?), candle holders, and a small selection of beaded or silver jewelry. Staré Mesto. Metro: Line A: Staromestská. Týnská 7. 222-326-484.

Art Appreciation

Galerie Peithner-Lichtenfels in Old Town specializes in modern Czech art. Paintings, prints, and drawings crowd the walls and are propped against glass cases and window sills. Browsers can comb through works by Czech Cubists, currently fetching high prices at international auctions. Stareé Mesto. Metro: Line B: Námestí Republiky. Michalská 12. 224-227-680.

Without any previous experience working with glass, the American owner of Artel followed her instincts to pinpoint what was missing in the Czech glass scene -- a combination of antique and modern. In her private showroom, you will find elegant, long-stemmed wine glasses and playful giraffe-series whiskey glasses. Her work has caught the attention of buyers like Whoopi Goldberg and the fashion designer Marc Jacobs. Prices befit the quality and craftsmanship of these small works of art: If you have to ask, you probably can't afford it. But if you can, these pieces are an excellent investment. Private showings are by appointment only, Monday to Friday, from 9 to 6. Vinohrady. Metro: Trams 10, 16, 11, 5. Vinohradská 164. 271-732-161.

Specialty Shops

The shoebox-sized Art Deco Gallery Shop has a great selection of art deco tea sets from the 1930s that have "Made in Czechoslovakia" stamped on the bottom. Along with a good selection of jewelry, hats, and glass sets, the owner has English-language art books on hand so that you can read what collectors have to say about her items. The shop is only open from 2 to 7 PM most days (it opens at 11 AM on Wednesday and 2:30 on Sunday), so don't plan to make this an early-morning stop. Malá Strana. Metro: Line A: Malostranská. Jánskývrsek 8. 257-535-801.

The marionettes at Obchod Pod lampou are the real thing. These puppets -- hand-crafted knights, princesses, and pirates -- are made by the same artists who supply professional puppeteers. Prices may be higher than for the usual stuff on the street, but the craftsmanship is well worth it. Mala Strana. Metro: Line A: Malostranská. U Luzického seminére 5. No phone.

Cruises: Bigger, Fancier, Funner Than Ever

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Cruise lines have changed a lot since I took my first cruise aboard the QE2. The year was 1969 and, cool as it was, on board activities were so few that my brother and I busied ourselves riding up and down the elevators, which were equipped with "newfangled" heat-sensor buttons you didn't have to touch to activate.

That was a long time ago. Nobody's riding the elevator for fun on today's ships. Who'd wanna push buttons when you can climb a rock wall, ice skate, or shoot hoops?

Such fancy shmancy stuff has been drawing cruisers in droves---nearly 11 million in 2004 (a record, says the Cruise Lines International Association) and the industry looks to be cruising toward another all-time high in 2005. Nearly 70 ships have launched since 2000, and more are scheduled for the coming year, including Royal Caribbean's hotly anticipated Freedom series. The boats are big, too. How big? My Queen Elizabeth 2 is a mere peon next to Cunard's swanky new Queen Mary 2, which, at more than 1 thousand feet long, is nearly 200 feet and 1000 passengers bigger than its sister ship.

All that girth means these babies are self-sufficient. There's entertainment, food, swimming pools, shopping, food, game rooms, kids clubs, food, movie theaters, live shows, shore excursions, and casinos. And did I mention the food? Soak up a spa, swim, skate or dance to your heart's content. Whack at a golf simulator, run a track, or shop and gamble from your room via interactive TV screen (although why you'd want to do this is beyond me). Heck, with fully-stocked hospitals, you can even get a kidney stone while at sea and not have to disembark (trust me, I know).

People who like a lot of activity love cruises, but those looking for peace and quiet might be less enamored. Even sprawling ships have finite space, and things can feel cramped. Frequent activity reminders, via loudspeaker---you'll hear them everywhere, including your cabin, from roughly 8:30 a.m. on---can interrupt your reverie, not to mention your sleep. And making sure you're on time for all the shore launches and on-board events can impede relaxation. For me, time off means never having to say I'm sorry I'm late.

Still, many doubting Ahabs have come away from their first cruise so pleased that they repeat the experience many times. To ensure success, you'll want to consider a couple of things before shipping off:

Cabins: Staterooms, once closet-size, have gotten bigger but remain smaller than your average land resort room. Opting for an outside cabin (as opposed to windowless and inside) gives the illusion of more space, as does paying for a balcony, an increasingly common perk (on Disney, for example, nearly half the rooms have balconies). If you're bringing the kids, look into family rooms (such as on Royal Caribbean's upcoming Freedom of the Seas) with extra room for all.

Dining: Traditional dining plans mean same time, same restaurant every day. If that sounds too restrictive, ask about ships with free-form dining (an increasingly popular plan) that allows you to choose your restaurant and reservation time.

Kids Clubs: Elaborate kids clubs entertain young 'uns so well you may never see them. Ask about ages and requirements up front: Day of embarkation is not the time to learn that your child does not qualify for a kids' club for potty-trained children age 4 and up.

Ports: Ships today leave from roughly 30 ports, including Boston and Galveston (instead of just South Florida), so you can skip the fly/sail hassle. If you are flying, book your air passage through the cruise line, or risk losing your shirt if flight delays cause you to miss your ship.

Shore Excursions: Thrill seekers can opt for everything from parasailing to zip lining to safaris. But budget ahead as off-boat activities will cost you.

Enlist an Expert: CLIA-certified cruise specialists are required to cruise on multiple ships, and to tour many more. As a result, they can spontaneously cite ship facts, such as which have the smallest cabins and the best kids' clubs. CLIA's site (cruising.org) has a search engine for finding someone in your area.

Finally, no matter your level of enthusiasm, start small. Seven days (or 38, as on the Queen Mary) can be an eternity if you're one of those viewing the scenery with your head hanging over the rail. First timers should consider a three- or four-day jaunt to start. If you love it, you can always go back. Bon Voyage.

Next Best Thing to a Willy Wonka Museum

With all the buzz surrounding the opening this week of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, it's easy to forget that Roald Dahl was the mastermind behind the fantastical world of Wonka.

Fortunately, a museum devoted to the children's writer has opened its doors for business. The Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre, which honors both Dahl and the many characters from his famous fables, is located 20 miles northwest of London, in Great Missenden.

In addition to exhibits on his life and work, the museum has more than a few design details inspired by Dahl's books, like faux chocolate doors (right) that actually smell like chocolate.

One gallery includes a detailed timeline of Dahl's life and gives visitors a chance to browse an extensive collection of the author's personal papers as well as an electronic archive of his "Ideas Book." The museum will keep one gallery available for temporary exhibits. The first exhibit showcases photos the author took while serving in the Middle East during WWII.

Kids will probably be more interested in the museum's participatory elements. Kids can climb into a huge BFG dream bottle (below) to try their hand at making shadow puppets. For inspiration, budding authors can head to a replica of Dahl's famous "Writing Hut," which rests in an outdoor orchard detailed with huge artworks by Quentin Blake, the illustrator of several Dahl books. Interactive games and bookcases are interspersed throughout the trees.

Tickets are £3.50 for children ages 3-18 and a family ticket can be purchased good for the admission of 2 adults and up to 3 children for £15. It's recommended that you book tickets in advance by calling 01494 892192 or by following the directions on the center's website. ---Katie Hamlin

Photo credits: Courtesy of The Roald Dahl Museum & Story Centre

Five Reasons to go to Barcelona

Architecture: From 2nd-century Roman columns and ramparts to a 9th-century Synagogue, from an 11th-century pre-Romanesque church to Jean Nouvel's 21st-century Torre Agbar, Barcelona is a vast banquet of architectural styles and techniques.

Music: If, as Saint Augustine wrote, music and architecture are twin arts, Barcelona's architectural bonanza was bound to fill with music. From early music master Jordi Savall to opera, classical, flamenco, and jazz, Barcelona's musical offerings are enormously ample, varied, and first-rate.

Food: Barcelona has become the culinary hotspot of the world with celebrated chefs doing predictably (in Catalonia) original and even surrealistic things with food. From tapas to haute cuisine, Barcelona is a feast that neatly complements the miles of walking you'll need to do to see the architecture. Also, 2005-2006 is The Year of Food, Cuisine, and Gastronomy, a full year devoted to celebrating Catalan cuisine with forums, conventions, symposiums, and get-togethers of every kind.

Art & Design: Barcelona's newly consolidated Museu Nacional de Arte de Catalunya rivals Madrid's Prado as Catalonia's own national art museum. Romanesque murals, Pyrenean chapels, impressionists, art nouveau painters, and surrealists vie for space in Montjuïc's splashy Palau Nacional, while Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, and Antoni Tàpies each have museums of their own.

Beaches: Since the restoration of Barceloneta's beaches, the city has become a beach town all on its own, though Castelldefels, Sitges, and the beaches north to the Costa Brava have always been easy options for the sun and sand set.

Photo 1: Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia
Photo 2: George Semler, Fodor's Barcelona Gold Guide writer

Summer's New and Best Coasters

Colossos. Thunderhead. Superman. Top Thrill Dragster. Tower of Terror.
Amusement park junkies the world over respect these names and so should you. In 2004, 328 million visitors headed to U.S. amusement parks for the thrill of big drops, high speeds, and neck-testing turns. The same thrillseekers are sure to remember summer 2005, as several long-anticipated new rides push limits at an amusement park near you.

Kingda Ka
Six Flags Great Adventure, Jackson, NJ

Kingda Ka is the centerpiece of Six Flags Great Adventure's Golden Kingdom, a new fantasy jungle attraction within the Six Flags park.
With speeds reaching 128 m.p.h., Kingda Ka is the world's fastest roller-coaster, delivering its thrill in a mere 52 seconds. Peaking out at 456 feet, the coaster also boasts the world's tallest drop, a designation previously held by Cedar Point's Top Thrill Dragster. Kindga Ka is not for the faint of heart, but Golden Kingdom does have attractions for the Jungle Book set, including Balin's Jungleland, a children's climbing adventure area. Golden Kingdom and Kingda Ka open in late April or early May.

Insanity - The Ride
The Stratosphere Casino Hotel and Tower, Las Vegas, Nevada

Riders might think they're gambling with their lives riding the Stratosphere Tower's fourth ride. Some are bound to experience suspended disbelief as a crane-like device spins riders 64 feet past the edge of the Stratosphere Tower at 40 m.p.h. As the ride spins, the crane lifts riders up to a 70-degree angle. It's the perfect spin for a city that aims to both amaze and disorient visitors. Insanity - The Ride joined High Roller, Big Shot, and Xscream, the tower's other rides, March 10.

maXair
Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio

Mass thrill is the underlying theme of maXair, the newest ride at roller-coaster-packed Cedar Point in Sandusky. The ride features outward-facing seats suspended from a giant frisbee-like structure attached to a pendulum. Riders ready to endure the 2.5-minute ride are swung back and forth in a seemingly out-of-control pendulum motion while spinning in a clockwise rotation at 70 m.p.h. The scary saucer should be ready in time for the park's May 7 opening.

Tomb Raider: Firefall
Paramount's Kings Dominion, Doswell, Virginia

Fans of Angelina Jolie will be happy to hear that the newest ride at Paramount's Kings Dominion features the actress' alter-ego, Lara Croft. Tomb Raider: Firefall incorporates themes and props from the video-game heroine's two movies--- Lara Croft: Tomb Raider and Tomb Raider: Cradle of Life. As riders wait in line for the 2-minute ride, they learn Tomb Raider film lore. Adventurers board "the massive stone and steel alter," a floorless contraption with two rows seating 38 passengers. As part of a "tribal ritual," the ride makes five inversions in all, with the platform spinning in circles 60 feet in the air while flipping. Riders experience further sensory overload as the ride shoots fire, water, and steam from below. Located in the Congo section of the park.

Old Favorites That Are Sure to Please:
Cyclone, Astroland, Brooklyn, New York
Rutchebanen, Bakken, Copenhagen, Denmark
Jack Rabbit, Kennywood, West Mifflin, PA
Apollo’s Chariot, Busch Gardens, Williamsburg, VA
Space Mountain, Disney World, Orlando, Florida.

Photo Credits: (1) Six Flags Great Adventure; (2) The Stratosphere Casino Hotel and Tower ; (3) Cedar Point ; (4) Paramount's Kings Dominion

Portsmouth Centennial: More Than a History Lesson

by Ferne Arfin

For 30 days in the summer of 1905, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, was the center of a multinational media frenzy. As diplomats from Russia and Japan---then two of the world's most powerful countries---negotiated the end of a war and the fate of a large chunk of Asia, journalists from all over the globe reported the play-by-play while locals cheered for peace like baseball fans at the World Series.

This month, Portsmouth kicks off a two-and-a-half month centennial celebration of the Peace of Portsmouth that ended the Russo-Japanese War. Organizers have planned parades, free concerts, exhibitions, re-enactments, plays, parties, "Chautauqua" style seminars---something to do or see, every day between July 1 and mid-September, all over town. This little known but significant historical event turns out to be a fascinating story. And it's as good an excuse as any to visit one of New England's most happening cities.

Portsmouth may be small---population is around 21,000---but it's sophisticated and arty, with a lively music scene, a respected repertory theater, more than 100 independent restaurants, many original shops and, at Strawbery Banke, a ten-acre, outdoor museum to keep history buffs in heaven.

It is also home to one of the grandest of New England's grand hotels, the recently restored Wentworth-by-the-Sea (pictured above). Here, in 1905, diplomats and their entourages stayed free of charge for the talks. Much behind-the-scenes drama and last-minute negotiation took place at the hotel. As part of the centennial, the Wentworth is offering excellent per-night discounts on selected days in August and September.

When President Theodore Roosevelt invited Japanese and Russian representatives to treaty talks on the East Coast (equidistant from both), their 18-month war had already cost half a million lives and all but one ship of the Russian Navy. Today, in the West, the Russo-Japanese war is regarded as little more than a historical footnote, but in its time it was the costliest war the world had ever seen. Portsmouth was chosen for the talks because its summer climate was more comfortable than Washington, D.C., and suitable facilities and skilled staff could be provided at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard.

Roosevelt is credited with the peace and won the first American Nobel Peace Prize for his "back stage" interventions with the Tzar. But he never actually came to Portsmouth. State and local officials, the US Navy, and prominent hoteliers hosted the talks and picked up the tab.

Ordinary local people helped to make the talks a success. From society hostesses to Russian-speaking, immigrant Jewish shopkeepers, the people of Portsmouth entertained the participants all summer long, creating dozens of informal opportunities for the warring parties to get to know each other. In their generosity, they demonstrated what Charles Doleac, co-chairman of the centennial committee calls "the better angel of the American nature."

Today, diplomats call this multitrack diplomacy, but in 1905 people probably thought it was just New England hospitality. However you look at it, when the talks bogged down over the last few intractable points, it was a powerful mesh of social ties and obligations that held the delegates in Portsmouth. Entries in their diaries show that neither side wanted to be the first to give up the struggle for peace.

Extracts from the diaries form part of the Historical Society's comprehensive Portsmouth Peace Treaty Exhibit at the John Paul Jones House Museum. Recently discovered film of the welcoming parade, also featured in the exhibit, is the oldest surviving newsreel footage of New England.

At the Children's Museum, among thousands of folded paper peace cranes made by New Hampshire school children, the story is told in pictures. Other exhibitions include 18th- and 19th-century Japanese woodblock prints at the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion. The Art of Peace is a juried show and competition sponsored by the New Hampshire Art Association and co-chaired by Yoko Ono and NH First Lady Susan Lynch. The schedule of events, performances, and exhibits changes daily as new organizations and institutions join in. Details and continuous updates can be found at the Centennial website: www.portsmouthpeacetreaty.com.

When you've had enough history, Portsmouth has plenty of other diversions. Like the delegates, you can take a break from history and world affairs by investigating the quirky shops and boutiques around Market Square. Or cruise to the mysterious Isles of Shoals, nine miles offshore. The city is a treasure trove of well-kept, substantial, clapboard antiques. And it's still an active, deepwater port. Unwind at one of the popular deck bars or restaurants along the Ceres Street Docks and you might find yourself surprised by a giant freighter being quietly nudged into place by tug boats.

GETTING THERE: Portsmouth is 91 miles from Providence on I-95, exit 7.

WHERE TO STAY: Wentworth-by-the-Sea housed the 1905 delegates, who mingled freely with hotel guests and relaxed in the hotel pool. To get in the spirit, they're offering a peace treaty package, including afternoon tea and a peace trail tour, starting at $149 per person on selected days in August and September. From July to September, visitors to the centennial celebrations are being offered 10 percent discount off normal room rates. Weekend and mid-week rates vary (866/240-6313). Even if you stay elsewhere, stop by for brunch to sample the chef's indescribable lobster hash.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

The schedule of exhibits, performances, re-enactments, plays, seminars and parades is massive and growing. Find full details at www.portsmouthpeaceTreaty.com. Meanwhile, here is a sampling:

Portsmouth Peace Treaty Exhibit, John Paul Jones House Museum, corner of Middle and State Streets. Open daily (except Wednesdays) from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission $10. (603/436 8420, www.portsmouthhistory.org)

PEACE! Pictorial History for Young People, Children's Museum of Portsmouth, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., now through September 4. Admission $5, Seniors $4, children under 1 are free. (603/436-3853, www.childrens-museum.org)

The Art of Peace, New Hampshire Art Association's juried competition and exhibit. July 20 to September 5. Robert Lincoln Levy Gallery, 136 State Street. (603/431-4230)

Portsmouth Peace Treaty Centennial Concert Series Free concerts at 3 p.m. every Sunday between July 10 and October 16, highlighting different churches and performance venues important in the 1905 Peace Conference.

Strawbery Banke Museum 350 years of Portsmouth history told through the homes and workshops of the Puddle Dock district, saved from the urban "renewers" of the 1960s and restored in situ. The Shapiro house is the only Jewish immigrant homestead open to the public outside New York City. There, learn about the Ukrainian Jewish immigrants who impressed the aristocratic Russian delegates with their American success. 64 Marcy Street, Open daily to October 31, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. $15.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Live Music
For a small city, Portsmouth has busy live music scene. Try Dolphin Striker and Spring Hill Tavern, corner of Bow and Ceres Streets, Tuesday through Sunday nights, 9 to 12:30. No cover. 603/431-5222.

Blue Mermaid World Grill. Friday, Saturday and some weeknights, pop, indie, bluegrass, reggae.

Muddy River Smokehouse. Popular barbecue joint with nightly live pop, rock, hip hop and laidback modern groove.

Cruises
Portsmouth Harbor Cruises, offers harbor, evening and sunset cruises as well as mid-week Isles of Shoals cruises, from $11 to $19. Child, senior and military discounts.

Flying High with Your Pooch

Air travel can be a stressful and sometimes dangerous experience for pets, especially if they travel in the excess baggage or cargo holds. The International Air Transport Association (IATA), which governs air travel for pets along with the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), estimates that half a million dogs and cats travel on commercial airlines in the United States each year.

Of those, a reported 99 percent arrive at their destination without incident. However, that leaves approximately 5,000 airline mishaps a year -- enough to make any pet owner very cautious. The best way to ensure your pet's safety is to ask lots of questions and be sure to get answers that sound right to you before you proceed.

Each airline has its own guidelines for travel. Reconfirm your plans 24 to 48 hours before flight departure, especially during peak flying times. If possible, get written confirmation of your arrangements from the airline. Most airline Web sites have information regarding pet travel.

To travel by plane, your pet will need an airline-approved carrier and a health certificate, usually issued no more than 10 days before departure.

Who Should and Shouldn't Fly

Healthy animals over eight weeks old who have been issued a health certificate are legally allowed to fly. However, it is advisable to wait until they are 12 weeks old. If your pet is under the care of a veterinarian for an existing medical condition, you should consult your vet on the pros and cons of air travel. If your pet is pregnant, ill, or under 12 weeks old she should not fly, because the stress can cause serious complications.

Keep in mind that pug-nosed animals (such as bulldogs, pugs and Boston terriers and Himalayan and Persian cats) may have difficulty breathing at high altitudes because of their short nasal passages. You should also consider an alternative method of travel or consult your vet if your pet does not handle new and stressful situations well.

When to Fly
The best days to travel: Weekday flights are usually less hectic than weekend flights. Therefore, both you and your pet are more likely to receive attentive service during the week.

The best months to travel: If you must travel in the summer months, book flights only in the early morning or late evening when the temperatures are lowest. In the winter, midday flights are best because temperatures are usually higher than in the morning or evening. Remember, your pet may be waiting a bit to be loaded and unloaded from the plane. For health reasons (it's too hot) some airlines don't permit pets to travel as cargo between May 15 and September 15.

The best routes to travel: Direct and nonstop flights are the best. Avoid taking your pet on a flight with a stopover, especially flights that require passengers to change planes. These are the situations in which a mishap is most likely to occur because of scheduling changes or simple human error. If you are making a flight connection to a different airline, you will have to recheck your animal and pay another fee for excess baggage.

Temperature requirements: Most airlines use the following guidelines regarding temperatures in which animals may be flown: No less than 32°F and no more than 85°F.

Cost

The cost of flying your pet is determined by the individual airline and may be based on the size and weight of your animal as well as where and how (cabin, baggage, or cargo) it is to be flown. Most airlines charge about $75 per pet. If you do not have your own carrier some airlines sell them, but they're usually quite a bit more expensive than carriers from a pet-supply catalog or store.

Exercise, Tranquilizers, Feeding

Try to exercise your pet a bit before departure so he will be more likely to relax or even sleep.

Most vets do not recommend tranquilizers because they can have adverse effects at high altitudes and may make the animal less able to right himself if his carrier is mishandled. Also, tranquilizers can adversely affect your pet's body temperature-regulation process. It is best to discuss this matter with your vet, who will consider your pet's age and temperament as well as the duration of the flight before advising you on the use of tranquilizers.

In most cases it is advisable to avoid feeding your pet a large meal within two hours of departure time. It is usually best to feed dogs a small meal before you leave and then a larger meal upon arrival at your destination at the end of the day. Cats usually won't eat when they see you packing anyway, so when you get to your destination be sure to set up a quiet spot for your cat to eliminate and eat.

Pets in the Passenger Cabin

Some airlines permit animals to travel in the cabin as long as they are kept in their carriers and the carrier fits under the seat. Usually, no more than two pets are allowed in a cabin per flight, so make reservations well in advance and double check the airline's regulations. As a general rule, pets permitted to travel in the cabin may weigh no more than 20 pounds.

Most airlines charge between $80 and $100 one way for a pet in the cabin. When you arrive at the security gate, you will be required to remove your pet from its carrier and send the carrier through the X-ray machine. Be sure to have a collar or harness and leash attached to your pet. Most airlines have approved soft-sided carriers, such as the Sherpa bag, for cabin travel.
To avoid delays, be sure to have your pet's health certificate and boarding pass ready when you approach the security gate.

Flying Your Pet As Baggage or Cargo

To travel on your flight as excess baggage, the total weight of your pet and its carrier must not exceed 100 pounds in most cases. If the weight of the animal and carrier combined is greater than that, most airlines will only allow the pet to be shipped as cargo.

If the weight of your pet and its carrier exceeds the maximum weight allowed to fly as excess baggage, she may have to fly as cargo. Airlines do not guarantee that a pet flying as cargo will be on the same flight as you. Pricing also changes: it will be based on the weight and/or the measurements of the kennel. Flying as cargo is one of the most hazardous ways to transport your pet. If this is your only option, you must be even more careful to question the airline on every aspect of your pet's journey.

Check-in Tips

The check-in process can take a bit of time, so get to the airport at least 2-3 hours before flight time.

Have all your paperwork ready and be friendly to everyone at the airline: remember, they will be taking care of your pet. Bring a health certificate that was issued no more than 10 days before the flight.

Bring a carrier that is airline-approved and properly fitted to your pet. Approved crates will be marked as such, and appropriately sized crates should be big enough for your pet to stand up, turn around and lie down in with ease.

If the carrier is too large, your animal could be hurt because too much movement means he is more likely to be banged around. The crate must be sturdy and well-ventilated and contain plastic food and water dishes (these usually come with the crate). Don't include toys because they increase they possibility of choking. A piece of your old clothes or a blanket or towel from home may help to relax your pet a bit.

Identify the carrier clearly so you can spot it from a distance. Tape a friendly note on the top of the crate with all relevant information regarding your pet. A sample might be: "Hi, my name is Frisky. I am a 7-year-old Labrador retriever. I am going to St. Paul, MN, on Flight 5203. This is my first flight, so I am a little nervous. Thank you for taking good care of me."

After you check your pet in, go to your gate and watch to make sure your pet is safely loaded (a brightly marked carrier will make it easy to spot your animal). If possible ask one of the airline employees to reconfirm with baggage personnel that your pet is aboard.

If you must change planes at a stopover, check with airline personnel again to make sure your pet has made the connection. If there will be a long delay in the second flight departure, claim your pet, take him for a quick walk, etc. and then reboard him. After arrival your pet will be delivered to the baggage-claim area.

Links to Major Airlines' Pet Policies:
United
Delta
US Airways
Continental
British Airways

Pet Packing|Traveling Safely|Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Just Back From Prague

Douglas Stallings went to Prague for a week to figure out why it's the most popular destination in Central Europe.

Why Prague?

Many parts of the Old Town look just as they did in the Middle Ages. The hotel I stayed in was built in the 1400s. I went to church concerts, ate good food, walked the cobblestone streets, saw the sights, and drank lots of cheap Czech beer.

What was your best find?

Two things actually. The first was Jaroslav "Jay" Pesta, a private tour guide I found through his Web site (www.prague-walks.com). He guided me all over town on my first full day in Prague. The second thing was Art Decoratif, a store that sells jewelry and decorative art (though not originals) designed by Prague native Alfons Mucha. Let's just say I did a lot of my Christmas shopping early.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

A boat ride on the Vltava River. We went on a small, restored, 19th-century canal boat, which was much more fun than a 50-seater. It's not a long tour, just 45 minutes, but you get a view of the city that you can't get from anywhere else.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

Pivo (beer). Several brands are popular, including Budvar, the original Budweiser, Pilsner-Urquell, and Gambrinus. My favorite was Staropromen, which is brewed right in Prague. There are also brewpubs, including Pivovarsky Dum, that make their own beer. My favorite restaurant was Chez Marcel, a French bistro that felt like something straight out of Paris.

What advice do you have for someone going to Prague?
Prague is a small city, but it draws big crowds, so go in the off-season, January through mid-April, or November through December. Also, my advice is to get out of Prague after 3 or 4 days. That's plenty of time to see the sights, and the Czech Republic has a lot more to offer. You can rent a car and wander the countryside or take a train or bus if you don't want to drive.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• New Zealand
  
• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Icon of NY Modernism Bites the Dust

The building permits have been issued and the scaffolding is going up. The end of 2 Columbus Circle as we know it is near at hand. Starting in November, construction workers will demolish the exterior and interior of architect Edward Durrell Stone's unusual 1964 building and begin a much-delayed makeover headed up by architect Brad Cloepfil, of Portland's Allied Works. The re-design calls for removal of, among other things, Stone's signature marble cladding and porthole windows.

The news came as a shock to architectural preservationists who'd hoped that the building's recent addition to the World Monument's Fund's list of endangered sites would result in its preservation.

But the structure's fame as a monument to architectural fatuity seems to have outdistanced any reputation it knew as great architecture. Ada Louise Huxtable, writing in the NY Times in 1964, dismissed it as a "die-cut Venetian palazzo on lollipops" while others have likened it to everything from a "bathroom shower stall" to a "plant holder." The building was originally designed to house entrepreneur Huntington Hartford's modern art collection. The city bought 2 Columbus Circle in 1975 and used it to house the Cultural Affairs Department until the mid-1990s. It will re-open in the fall of 2007 as the new home of the Museum of Arts and Design.---Chris Culwell

Photo: Jinny Kwon

Just Back From New Zealand

Sarah Gold took a ten-day whirlwind trip to New Zealand, during which she visited the northerly regions of both the North and South Islands. Among the sights she saw were the remote Bay of Islands, and the wild and woolly coast of West Auckland (with its giant kauri tree forests) in the north, and the wine regions of Marlborough and Blenheim, the Abel Tasman National Park, and the Queen Charlotte Track in the south. It was far too brief a trip. She could have happily spent ten days in every location she visited.

Why New Zealand?

I'm not a huge Lord of the Rings fan, but I remember sitting in a movie theater a few years ago, watching one of Peter Jackson's film adaptations, all of which were filmed in New Zealand. There was a scene that had breathtakingly beautiful mountains in the background; they looked so otherworldly that the friend sitting next to me leaned over and whispered, "Those must be computer-generated." I didn't think they were---but I wanted to find out.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

I took a walking tour with an outfit called Footprints Waipoua, in the Waipoua Forest on the northwest coast of the North Island. This is where the largest kauri trees in the country (and the world) are. As a special treat, the tour guides---both of them from local Maori families---took me into the forest at night; the silence and the darkness heightened the feeling that we were treading on sacred ground. As they led me toward the largest known kauri tree, the 2,000-year-old Tane Mahuta ("Lord of the Forest"), they turned off their flashlights and sang traditional Maori prayers to honor the tree. It gave me chills.

What surprised you?

I spent a lot of time exploring outdoors---a no-brainer, since the landscapes are the major reason to visit New Zealand. Some of the rainforests are really dense and wild---so I was startled to learn that there aren't any dangerous creatures that live there. I grew up in Australia, where the woods are full of biting spiders and snakes, so it was a revelation to see one of my trekking companions take off his boots and walk barefoot through the bush. There was nothing to keep him from doing it!

What was the best thing you ate or drank?

On a catamaran sail through Abel Tasman National Park, the captain and I (we were the only ones on the boat) spent hours poking along different coves and inlets. As we drifted past a beautiful, aptly named spot called Paradise Beach, I saw that there were green-lipped mussels covering the rocks just off the beach. "Mmm, those look good," I said to the captain---and next thing I knew, he'd thrown out the anchor, waded ashore with a bucket, and pulled a couple dozen of them off the rocks. He threw them in a pot and steamed them on the galley stove, and ten minutes later we ate them with our fingers. I've never had fresher seafood in my life.

What advice do you have for someone going to New Zealand?

Leave all the trappings of your usual workaday life---laptop, Blackberry, cell phone---at home. While the cities and more heavily visited areas in New Zealand are all wired (or wireless), the more off-the-beaten-path areas aren't---and that's a good thing. Why would you want to be staring at a screen or punching a little keypad when you could be hiking, sea kayaking, and wine-tasting your way through some of the most spectacular scenery on earth?

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Berkshires
  
• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Babymoons: Getaways for Expecting Parents

bab·y·moon
noun
1) a period of harmony preceding the happy but labor-intensive years of parenthood
2) a trip taken by expecting parents

Jitters abound during the nine-month countdown to delivery of a family's first child, and expectant moms and dads can easily get worn down from preparation overload. To allay bun-in-the-oven tensions, couples are indulging in babymoon getaways, blissful retreats before the onset of 3 a.m. screaming and feeding.

Resorts and hotels are getting in on the act, cooking up various pre-natal package deals. Here are a few that caught our eye:

Estancia La Jolla Hotel & Spa, La Jolla, California

The Stress-Free Parents to Be package at this San Diego-area resort is the ultimate weekend escape for parents with a child on the way. Couples are greeted with sparkling cider and chocolate berries every evening at turn down and awake each day to enjoy breakfast in bed. The la-de-da life continues with an escorted shopping trip to Nordstrom, where a personal shopper guides you through mountains of kiddy clothes. The package includes pre-progeny photographs of the happy couple in addition to one free dinner at Adobe, the resort's restaurant. Yoga classes and spa services, including massages, manicures, and hydrating scalp treatments, are also available. Rates for the three-night package start at $2000 for an Estate Room and $2,500 for an Estate Suite. 858/550-1000.

Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico

Memories can last a lifetime, and Las Ventanas al Paraiso is so set on you remembering your pre-baby holiday that their 2005 Babymoon package includes a Tane silver baby spoon & fork set. Every feeding will be a reminder of this special weekend, where you'll remember being ridiculously pampered with such things as a Mommy Massage and pre-natal fitness session. The four- night packages start at $2,330 and roundtrip airport transfers are included. 888/ROSEWOOD.

Bodega Bay Lodge and Spa, Bodega Bay, California

Parents-to-be will leave this Sonoma County resort feeling properly relaxed after indulging in the Last Big Hoorah package. Rates start at $645 a night and include a deluxe guest room and his/her spa services. While mom-to-be enjoys a gentle pre-natal massage, her partner will be well-kneaded during his Swedish massage. Facials are included, so mom and dad can look their best when they head to dinner at the hotel's Duck Club Restaurant, where they can eat a little extra thanks to a $50 food credit. But this doesn't have to be the last hoorah---book two massages before baby's first birthday and you'll receive a special discount. 707/875-3525.

Codder Resort & Spa, Hyannis, Massachusetts

The Codder Resort's two-night Countdown to Baby package should please foodies and back-pained partners alike. The package includes accommodations, sparkling non-alcoholic wine paired with chocolates, food credits worth $80, and spa services. Drool together during a 55-minute couples massage that includes a maternity rub for mommy and a more basic pat-and-press for dad. Food vouchers are good for meals at either the Grand Cru Wine Bar or the Hearth 'n' Kettle. Call for rates. 888/297-2200.

Pismo Beach Cliffs Resort, Pismo Beach, California

Doc Burnstein, the dairy dynamo, helped conceive this resort's Parents-To-Be Escape package. Doc churned out Baby Brickle ice cream, a rich mixture of butter pecan and peanut brittle, which is included in the couple's welcome basket. Indulge the stomach with breakfast in bed and a $50 dinner credit to the Sea Cliff Restaurant. One-hour massages are included. Rates start at $319 a night. 800/826-5838.

Four Seasons, Chicago, Illinois

Couples who want to explore the Windy City's baby shopping scene can pile up some serious discounts with the Four Season's Expecting You package. Starting at $415 a night, the package includes a visit from The Ice Cream Man, a complimentary breakfast, and a free manicure from The Spa when you book a "pregnancy massage." Several Chicago-area businesses are extending savings to package participants. All She Wrote, a paper boutique, offers a 20% discount on purchases of baby stationary or announcements. Schedule photographs with Classic Kids Photography and they'll waive the sitting fee. Additional freebies and discounts are available, including a complimentary bassinet from Neiman Marcus when guests make a $200 purchase from Layette Clothing in the children's department. Get your plastic ready. 312/280-8400.

Know the perfect destination for a babymoon? Lend some advice on a current thread on our talk forums:

Help Us Find a Destination for One Last Weekend Before Baby Comes

Murder in the Dordogne

by Chris Culwell

Deadly Slipper by Michelle Wan Click here to buy this book.

Well, sort of. Michelle Wan's Deadly Slipper is actually a murder mystery about an orchid buff who disappears without a trace while hunting down an elusive variety of the plant. The story is set in the Dordogne, and unforgettably so as it captures with a photographer's precision the dense forests and sun-kissed hillsides of the region, its grand medieval architecture, and its by turns formal and laid-back gentry. The book is a page-turner, sure to appeal to both orchid lovers and fans of murder mysteries, but it's also a wonderful primer on the Dordogne, a little slice of heaven in France.

We caught up with Michelle Wan recently for a lively discussion about orchids, Deadly Slipper, and the romance of the Dordogne.

Why did you set your story in the Dordogne? Certainly there are other places in Europe where orchids grow?

The Dordogne was the ideal setting for a story that uses wild orchids as the main clues to a woman's disappearance. While orchids grow all over Europe, they grow in abundance (still) in many parts of the Dordogne. Moreover, the Dordogne is blessed with a great variety of orchid species, which is essential to the plot of Deadly Slipper.

What initially attracted you to this region?

Love at first sight. The Dordogne is a beautiful part of the world, the people are warm, the food scrumptious, the orchids gorgeous. What more can I say?

What's the best season to travel to the Dordogne?

It depends on what you like. I prefer springtime for the spring flowers, so it's no surprise that Deadly Slipper takes place in the spring. However, it can be cool and rainy in April and May. For those who like it hot, especially if you're a water enthusiast, the summer is great. Most of the festivals, concerts and other major events take place then. However, July and August are also the peak tourist season. The fall is mellow and fruitful, as the colorful markets bursting with local produce will attest.

In the book, a great many fine meals are prepared (and consumed) at the Chez Nous bistro---grilled cheeses, fish, truffles, fresh fruit. Is this typical Dordogne cuisine?

Much of typical Dordogne cuisine is goose- or duck-based. Thus you'll encounter foie gras, of course, served pre-cooked and cold or pan-fried and meltingly delicious. If I could design my ideal menu, it would be a glass of chilled Muscat as an apéritif, fresh spring asparagus with poached quail's eggs as an entrée, and roast leg of lamb done rare with a walnut-garlic crust for the main course. By this time I wouldn't normally be able to eat another thing, but if I had to indulge in a cheese course, I'd order a cabecou (a little roundel of goat's cheese; the farmer down the road from where we stay makes wonderful cabecou), and for dessert nothing can be better than local strawberries in season.

The Dordogne also produces fine wines, no?

The western part of the region, around Bergerac, produces some very good wines, although many would say not to the standard of the great wineries of Bordeaux or Burgundy. The most well-known wine is probably Monbazillac, a very sweet honey-colored wine. My favorite red for everyday drinking is a full-bodied Pécharmant that gets its earthy flavor from the soil the grapes are grown in.

The book suggests that the Dordogne has retained a flavor of the medieval past. In what way is this most apparent? Architecture? Dialects? Cuisine?

Definitely the architecture evokes the region's past. Buildings looked settled in their landscape. The Dordogne is dotted with medieval towns (called bastides), early experiments in town planning and popular tourist attractions today. Fortified castles also call to mind the distant, turbulent history of the region, marked by the Hundred Years War (1337-1453). On a more personal level, we were once entertained to dinner in a house that dated from the 12th century. As North Americans, we were deeply impressed. The owner thought nothing of it. Occitan, the old tongue of the region, still survives in numerous local dialects. In fact, in the sequel to Deadly Slipper, an Occitan phrase figures as a major indicator. Where cuisine is concerned, some old customs still survive. However, one of the Dordogne's most famed gastronomic delicacies, foie gras, only began as a serious industry in the early 19th century.

The people in the story, the way they go about their business, the way they speak with each other---everything suggests a place that is somehow lost in time. Is this an accurate description?

The Dordogne has historically been an agricultural region, and agriculture no longer seems to offer an attractive or viable future to the young. Thus, those who are left are aging, and many of these people worry for the future of their way of life and for the region as a whole. For those who hold to the old ways, there is a sadness in the change that will come inevitably. Again, this phenomenon is reflected in Deadly Slipper. May the warmth, humor and friendliness of the people never change.

Is the Dordogne in peril of being overrun by tourists?

The Dordogne is certainly a popular tourist destination, attracting over a million visitors annually. However, tourists come and leave. What is altering the face of the Dordogne is the fact that it has become a popular choice for expatriates wanting to acquire a secondary residence. For example, the village where my husband and I stay every spring has, over the years, come to consist of a large percentage of English and Dutch residents. This phenomenon is reflected in many of the characters that readers meet in Deadly Slipper.

Will your next mystery be set in the Dordogne?

Most certainly. The Orchid Shroud not only picks up the quest for the Mystery Orchid, it moves main characters Mara Dunn and Julian Wood on to new murders, old crimes and tantalizing botanical clues. All served with a generous dollop of Dordogne cooking. I hope readers who liked Deadly Slipper will want to follow up with The Orchid Shroud.

Interested in learning more about the region from fellow travelers? Check out this current thread on our talk forums:

Dordogne region

Hotel Le Corbusier

by Ferne Arfin

On a clear November day, the wind scoured the Marseille sky a pure blue. The city, the mountains, and the Mediterranean were edged with bold and dazzling clarity, like an Impressionist composition laid on with a palette knife.

So what was I doing four storeys up in a concrete tower block, discussing double glazing with a pair of French intellectuals in earth shoes?

To begin with, this was no ordinary concrete tower block. Le Corbusier's Unité d'Habitation de Marseille is the granddaddy of them all, a 17-storey, vertical village surrounded by acres of landscaped park. Known to the Marseillaise as la cité radieuse (the radiant city), the Unité d'Habitation was erected between 1947 and 1952 to house the families of construction workers who were there to rebuild Marseille's war-damaged port. Its design was so radical for its day that the intended inhabitants refused to move in. Instead, the city's educated elite, its doctors, architects, social workers and teachers, flocked to the building, in what was then an eastern suburb, to snap up the owner-occupied flats, capable of housing 1,600 people.

Skip forward half a century and the structure remains a highly desirable residence for Marseille's chattering classes. It is also a French National Landmark with a hotel on the third level (actually about the 7th floor, but more on that later), where you can sample mid-20th-century architectural utopianism for yourself.

When I told the cab driver my destination, he let me know with a series of Gallic exclamations and gestures that he was impressed, and possibly expecting a big tip. So I was surprised to pull up to what looked to me like a London council estate, complete with windblown grit and graffiti. Brutalism, the style inspired by the Unité d'Habitation, became the vernacular of European public architecture throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The grim familiarity of these masses of rough cast concrete makes it hard to imagine they ever could have been considered avant garde.

In his plan for the building, Le Corbusier included a 21-room hotel. It has been maintained with most of the 1950s features and furnishings (some furniture was replaced by a previous owner but much of the original Charlotte Perriand decor remains). Intended as guest quarters for residents' visitors, the hotel has always been more of a pilgrimage stop on the Le Corbusier Trail. Bevies of architecture and design students, worshippers of minimalism, the above-mentioned earnest French intellectuals, and reverent Japanese students descend upon the place regularly to experience what has become a minor shrine to functional design and minimalism.

Shabby but Authentic

What you make of the Hotel Le Corbusier depends upon whether you are a fan of early 1950s design and materials. The Swiss-born Le Corbusier (1887-1965), whose real name was Charles-Edouard Jeanneret, was one of the most influential and controversial architects of the 20th century. He had definite ideas about how people should live and considered houses "machines for living." Right about now I should lay my cards on the table and tell you that I remain uncharmed by Le Corbusier's design and materials. Nevertheless, a weekend here offers a fascinating glimpse into a resonant, imagined future that never quite happened.

Alban Gerardin, who recently took over the hotel with his wife Dominique, acknowledges that Hotel Le Corbusier is more of a destination for enthusiasts than it is a hotel. "Our visitors are interested in architecture, artists, designers, people looking for unusual places. Ninety-five percent of the people who come know why they are here. They accept that they are in a special place and we can encourage them to stay as if this was their own home."

And like most homes, the Hotel Le Corbusier could do with some sprucing up. Until purchased by the Gerardins in early 2003, the same owner had run the hotel for more than 50 years. The place had been neglected, and at the moment much of it remains tired and shabby. Oddly, this contributes to its appeal.

The current owners are enthusiastic restorers. Having previously spent nine years bringing the locally renowned Art Deco house of architect Gaston Castel back to life, they are now refurbishing the hotel, aiming for a UNESCO World Heritage classification. The day we left, experts from the Le Corbusier Foundation arrived to consult about appropriate materials and furnishings. In keeping with the functional philosophy of the design, they've already approved one departure from period authenticity---the creation of a WiFi hotpsot. Corbusier no doubt would have appreciated the functionality.

No Irony Here

A hotel stay offers access to the rest of the landmark building. For a small fee you can visit a residential apartment to admire the Jean Prouvé staircase, the Charlotte Periand-designed kitchen and classic chaise longue, and the two storey-tall, floor-to-ceiling, thermopane windows. A jigsaw-puzzle arrangement of the 337 units means that access is only available on every third floor. This in turn frees space for the wide, gloomy corridors that are meant to resemble streets in a vertical city.

After our apartment tour, our guide led us to the roof to admire the gymnasium, running track, wading pool, infants school, and mini-amphitheatre. With no irony whatsoever, he sang the praises of the roof's abstract "beach," complete with concrete sand dunes (pictured above). Behind him, the Mediterranean sparkled as it danced along the many real beaches of Marseille's deeply indented coast.

Staying There
Studios with Perriand kitchens, large terraces, shower cabines and magnificent sea views cost 90 euros for up to 4 people. The 50-year-old decor is tired at the moment but the experience is authentic. Large rooms, at 80 euros, lack terraces but are much more comfortable, with polished hardwood floors, sofas, marble and mosaic bathrooms. Continental breakfast costs 8 euros. For more information, consult the hotel's website.

Getting There
Marseille is served by frequent flights from Paris and London. Daily flights from Paris arrive at the smaller airport at Nimes. There are direct flights in summer from the United States to Nice, roughly 100 miles from Marseille. Alternatively, the high-speed TGV Mediterranean line runs from Paris to Marseille. The trip takes about three hours.

Photos by Ferne Arfin

Just Back From the Berkshires

In the Berkshires, thickly-forested hills and valleys provide a stunning background for world-class arts festivals, top-notch museums, and the perfectly manicured lawns of tiny New England villages. Fodor's associate editor Amanda Theunissen reports on a weekend getaway to the famed hill towns of western Massachusetts.

Why the Berkshires?
My husband and I wanted an easy weekend trip from New York City. I'd heard the Berkshires were beautiful and less than 3 hours away, but had never been, so we decided to give it a shot.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
I'd have to call it a tie between seeing Savion Glover (the tap dancer) perform at the Jacob's Pillow Dance Festival and visiting the Norman Rockwell Museum. Both the festival site and the museum have beautiful grounds to explore so you can experience the arts and be completely surrounded by nature.

What surprised you?
Everything is so close together. We stayed in the town of Lee and were only a short drive from all the places we wanted to visit.

What was essential during your trip?
Fodor's guide to the Berkshires. I didn't have time to plan anything for this trip so I just grabbed a copy of the guide before we left. It had everything we needed---maps, recommendations on where to eat, and tons of listings of things to do.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?
The gazpacho at the Union Bar & Grill in Great Barrington. It was made with fresh cilantro and had just the right amount of kick---exactly what I wanted on a hot summer day.

What advice do you have for someone going to the Berkshires?
If you're coming from New York City, the Taconic Parkway is a very pretty drive. Taking the I-87 to the I-90, however, is a lot faster and may be a better choice if you're starting your drive after work on a Friday.

Photo credit: The Inside/Out Stage at Jacob's Pillow, photo by Skip Brown

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Alaska
  
• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Get Hooked on a Gone Fishin' Escapes

Did you know that 500 million people worldwide enjoy fishing? In the U.S. alone an estimated 44 million people sink a line now and then. If you're an angler in the Northeast in search of a good place to throw out your net, you might want to check out the Gone Fishin' Getaways on offer this summer through the New England Inns and Resorts Association.

From a cozy retreat overlooking Gloucester's Annisquam River to a handsome retreat in lake-rich southern Vermont, Gone Fishin' Getaways has something in store for every fisherman and woman. At Cape Ann's Marina Resort, you can charter your own boat, complete with captain, and take a customized fishing tour. At Plymouth's Hawk Inn & Mountain Resort, amateur anglers cast lines in a stocked pond while old hands try their luck in a nearby lake. Landlubbers get in on the act at Meredith, New Hampshire's Inn & Spa at Mill Falls, where guests luxuriate in fish-themed body wraps complete with seaweed treatments and mineral salts.

Here's a full list of the participating properties and deals:

Cape Ann's Marina Resort, Gloucester, MA

Golden Eagle Resort, Stowe, VT

Hawk Inn & Mountain Resort, Plymouth, VT

Indian Head Resort, Lincoln, NH

Inn at Jackson, Jackson, NH

Inn by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth, ME

Sebasco Harbor Resort, Sebasco Estates, ME

Stage Neck Inn, York Harbor, ME

The Arlington Inn, Arlington, VT

The Equinox Resort and Spa, Manchester Village, VT

The Inns & Spa at Mill Falls, Meredith, NH

The Stowe Inn, Stowe, VT

The Tamworth Inn, Tamworth, NH

The Wolfeboro Inn, Wolfeboro, NH

For additional information, log on to www.newenglandinnsandresorts.com, or call 1-888-705-5353

Rock and Roll Hall of Fame

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame puts a personal twist on rock history with its head-turning collection of objects, clothing, and memorabilia once belonging to rock celebrities. Fashion plates can ogle Al Green's white-leather stage jacket, Tina Turner costumes, and a psychedelic brocade jacket worn by John Lennon in 1967.

Handwritten lyrics by Jimi Hendrix will appeal to history buffs, and Janis Joplin's Porsche and a fragment of the crashed plane in which Otis Redding died in 1967 will have completists agog. Objects like John Lennon's report card from primary school and Jim Morrison's cub scout uniform shed an intimate light on people whose real lives have been obscured by glamour. The museum's permanent collection has thousands of items, and there are temporary exhibitions, public talks and films as well.

One Key Plaza, 751 Erieside Ave., Cleveland, OH, Phone: 216/781-7625. www.rockhall.com

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

When Junior Brings a Pal

by Lisa Oppenheimer

Nothing entertains a child like another child. This I know from experience.

On our last vacation, despite being surrounded by all the spoils of Disney World, my daughter still managed to find a way to be bored, pining for the one thing she didn't have with her, her BFF---"best friend forever."

Families who've brought a child's pal on vacation say he or she was the best vacation accessory ever---such a boon, in fact, that my friend Debbie refers to such arrangements as "borrowing" a child for the trip.

Still, bringing a non-family member requires more than just buying an extra ticket. Said child is your responsibility, not to mention another mouth to feed. Having a guest probably also necessitates a change in accommodations since it would be impractical to pack a stranger in the same room with mom, dad, and the siblings.

So what to think about? For starters, there's the little matter of chemistry. Bringing an extra changes the balance of your brood, and how well you all get along will make or break the whole trip. A kid who grates on your nerves at home is going to be equally---if not more---irritating on vacation, especially when you're paying big bucks to get away from it all, and staying in a hotel where there's little room to take refuge. It's your vacation, too, so don't feel compelled to bring along Eddie Haskell, even if he is junior's best bud.

And, make sure he fits well with other siblings. The two pals may be in heaven, but the arrangement may make a third wheel out of little sis. Not that they need to spend all of their time as a trio. But, an exclusive twosome might actually add to your travel woes by leaving one child who is now without even a sibling to play with.

How you vacation is important, too. Are you beachcombers? Night owls? A late-sleeping kid is going to be miserable with a group that needs to be on line for Space Mountain the moment the park opens. A family that likes to go-go-go should bring someone who is similarly inclined, so be clear about your itinerary from the outset.

A few other things to remember:

Homesickness: One friend of mine found her trip infinitely more complicated after her daughter's friend came down with an acute case of homesickness. Ask if the child has been away before. Even then, there's no guarantee that she won't miss mom, but it's less likely to be calamitous for a veteran traveler.

Parenting Styles: To some parents, keeping an eye on the kids means "know where they are." To others, it's a "stay together 24/7" proposition. I'd once planned to set my kids free at the mall to do some errands, but had to change gears when I learned the teen with us was not yet allowed to shop alone. Be specific about your expectations regarding supervision, and ask the other mom to do the same.

Destination: Supervision is easier when there are some well-organized teen activities in place. The Hawk's Cay resort in the Florida Keys, for example, has a nightly club for teens 13 to 17, with air hockey, karaoke, video games, internet access and more ($5 cover). Parents aren't allowed, which of course makes it all the more appealing (the club is open from 4 to 7 for preteens ages 9 to 12 who will need to be signed in and out). Kids are going to want some freedom, too. Destinations with distinct boundaries, such as an all-inclusive resort or a theme park, will be easier to manage than, say, a busy tourist area in Mexico.

Financing: If you're planning on treating, great. If not, lay out finances beforehand. Our plans for Disney World always include a few special and pricey perks like the spiffy new Segway tours at EPCOT. Be prepared to drop some experiences if they're not in the other family's budget.

House Rules: A traveling teen needs to respect your rules of the house. Lay them down at the outset. In my family, I expect my children to help out, even on vacation. So, a teen who expects me to do absolutely everything is not going to be a welcome addition.

Medical Issues: Be sure to bring insurance cards, and ask upfront how to handle the unlikely event of a medical emergency.

One final note: Do yourself a favor and make the invitation to the parents before the child. There's no quicker way to make an enemy than to dangle a lure to somebody else's child before you've gotten parental approval. How popular will you be when the answer comes back, "No, I'm sorry, you can't go to Grand Cayman because we'll be going to Aunt Mildred's 87th birthday party in Pawtucket."

Walkless Walking Tours

"A three-hour tour, a three-hour tour…"

If the mere thought of a lengthy walking tour of a big city makes your feet and head ache, you might consider the latest trend in sightseeing---Segway tours. The tours are named after those odd-looking, two-wheeled "personal transporters" introduced in 2001. Riding around Florence or Paris on a scooter-like transporter might seem tacky, or perhaps just plain silly, but to others it's the perfect alternative to the walk-and-gasp method of traditional guided tours.

Segway tours are now offered in a number of cities worldwide, and while they vary largely by location and company, the average tour costs between $60-80 and includes a 30-minute orientation class. Many tours offer their participants earpieces to listen to their guide's musings. While the "human transporters" relieve the stress of walking, they're not advisable for those who have trouble standing for long periods of time.---Katie Hamlin

Segway guided-tour companies operate in the following cities:

Amsterdam Austin Atlanta Bangkok Chicago Florence Los Angeles

Minneapolis New Orleans Paris Prague San Francisco Sarasota, Florida

St. George, Utah St. Louis St. Petersburg, Florida Vienna Walt Disney World Washington, D.C.

Photo courtesy of City Segway Tours Chicago

Caribbean-Bound?

Hurricane Season in the Caribbean lasts from June 1 through November 30, but it's rare to see a large storm in either June or November. Most major hurricanes occur between August and October, with the peak season usually being September.

Avoiding the Storms: When planning a trip to the Caribbean during Hurricane Season, keep in mind that hurricanes are less likely the further south you go. The ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao) as well as Trinidad and Tobago are rarely hit by hurricanes, though all have been hit by them in the past. Similarly, the islands of Barbados and St. Vincent---as well as the islands below them---are statistically less likely to experience a major hurricane; however, as Grenada discovered in 2004 with Hurricane Ivan, never say never where hurricanes are concerned.

Airlines: If you are scheduled to fly into an area where a hurricane is expected, get travel updates from your airline. If flights are disrupted, airlines will usually allow you to rebook at a later date, but you will not get a refund if you have booked a non-refundable ticket, nor in most cases will you be allowed to change your ticket to a different destination; rather, you will be expected to reschedule your trip for a later date---most often without any kind of change penalty. Some airlines will waive change penalties when a hurricane is a possibility (though not a certainty) so you can rebook your trip in a limited period of time; this gives you an "out" to avoid a rain-soaked vacation you no longer want to take (airlines do this so they won't be bringing a lot of travelers into an area that they might have to evacuate later). If you find yourself stuck on an island during a hurricane, just be aware that your departure may be delayed while aircraft are flown in to deal with the backlog of tourists trying to get off the island, and since the delay is weather-related, the airline will not be reimbursing you for any additional costs, including extra hotel nights, restaurant meals, or telephone calls back home.

Hotels & Resorts: Caribbean resorts do everything in their power to protect guests during a hurricane, but don't be surprised if you are asked to stay in your room or to sleep in a public room during a storm. Food service may be limited, but most resorts go out of their way to keep guests fed and reasonably happy. A particularly destructive storm can make that a challenging proposition, however. If a hurricane warning is issued and flights are disrupted to your destination, virtually every Caribbean resort will waive cancellation and change penalties and will allow you to rebook your trip for a later date; some will allow you to cancel even if a hurricane threatens to strike, even if flights aren't scheduled. Some will give you a refund if you have prepaid for your stay, others will expect you to rebook your trip for a later date. Some large resort companies---including Sandals and SuperClubs---have "Hurricane Guarantees," but these kick in only when flights have been cancelled or when a hurricane is sure to strike; just remember that the guarantees give you a credit only for the days that were directly disrupted by the storm. If there was rain for two days before the hurricane actually struck, you won't be getting any credit for those. On the positive side, if you must stay a couple of extra days before a flight is available, most of the hurricane guarantees will cover your lodging costs for this time. If the resort is not an all-inclusive, you may still be expected to pay for meals and drinks.

Pre-Paid Packages: There's nothing more disappointing than pre-paying for a package deal you can't take because a hurricane is bearing down on the island. Travel companies have different philosophies about this. A few will refund your money if a hurricane is about to hit the island where you've booked your vacation, but you should expect the refund to take at least 30 to 60 days. Most will force you to reschedule your trip. Even if the resort you've booked has a hurricane-guarantee policy, you may have to fight for your 2 or 3 days' refund from the travel company, though most will make good on guarantees, though they might not do so efficiently or happily. This is where a good travel agent comes in handy; your agent can work on your behalf directly with the travel packager. If you've booked your package online, you'll be fending for yourself. If your travel company has its own policy for weather-related cancellations, that policy might also allow you to rebook for a different date, but you'll still rarely get a refund.

Travel Insurance: Doesn't travel insurance protect you during hurricane season? Yes and no. Most travel insurance policies will cover a trip disrupted because of a hurricane (when you are forced to arrive late or leave early for your trip), but you'll be reimbursed only for the affected days until the airport or resort reopens. You will usually be reimbursed for the days you are forced to stay at a resort during a hurricane, but be sure to read the fine print on your policy to make sure you are actually covered. And remember that you'll usually only be covered if you buy your insurance at the same time you book the trip or before any kind of hurricane watch or warning is issued; otherwise, the hurricane might be deemed a pre-existing condition, which means no compensation for you. But if the airlines are operating and allowing passengers to fly to the destination, you'll usually be expected to leave for your vacation, even if a hurricane threatens. Also, most insurers won't pay as long as the airline is flying, even if the resort you booked and paid for is totally destroyed by the storm. In a case like this, it's usually better to take advantage of the airline's more flexible change policy and rebook your trip for a different time and a different resort.

Cruises: The good thing about cruises is that they can usually sail around the worst of a storm. And today's ships are extraordinarily safe. The bad thing is that the cruise you get may not be the cruise you signed on for. A cruise line always reserves the right to reschedule port calls and change itineraries for weather-related reasons; the line might even shift a cruise from the Eastern to Western Caribbean if a hurricane threatens its route. There is almost no chance you'll get a refund just because the port you've longed to see is no longer on your itinerary. You might get a discount on a future cruise or a shipboard credit, but that's about the best you can hope for. If you aren't able to get to your port of embarkation because of weather, be happy that you bought a travel insurance policy. You did that, right?

Track Those Hurricanes: Several web sites track hurricanes during the season, including weather.com, hurricanetrack.com, and accuweather.com.

Carnival Discounts at Antigua's Jolly Beach Resort

The best time of year to visit Antigua is late July and early August, when everyone here celebrates Carnival. Eye-catching costumes, parades, parties, festivals, and cook-outs become the main reason for getting out of bed, or at least off the beach.

Most resorts on Antigua haul out their biggest discounts and bargains during Carnival, including the Jolly Beach Resort, located on the beautiful west coast in Jolly Harbor. The all-inclusive rate for the resort's Carnival Special is $109 per person (per night) and is based on double occupancy for a standard room; $135 per night for single occupancy.

The package is valid for stays beginning July 23 and ending August 7, 2005. Travel must be booked by July 9. Rates include accommodations, all meals, snacks, afternoon tea, house-brand beverages, non-motorized water sports, service charge and all taxes.

If Carnival isn't really your thing, you can loll the hours away on a mile-long white sand beach, dive into a deep blue "fantasy" pool, dine at one of five restaurants, play a game of tennis, or work out in the fitness center.

Photos: (top) Jolly Beach Resort beach (bottom) Exterior Jolly Beach Resort

Toronto Shopping: The Big and the Small of It

The city that created Club Monaco and M.A.C. cosmetics has everything from haute couture to ethnic markets. While Toronto shoppers have some serious mall options, like Eaton Centre and Holt Renfrew, the numerous specialty shops dotting the city encourage day-long treasure hunts. Unique areas to explore include funky Queen Street West, with its street-smart shops; Queen Street East, featuring vintage and antique stores; and boutique-jammed Bloor Street West and Yorkville.

Garments and Garb

Toronto's best bargain outlet, Winners, features designer lines at rock-bottom prices. There are several locations, but the Yonge Street branch, below the elegant Carlu event center, is enormous. 444 Yonge St. 416/598-8800.

Tom's Place is well-stocked with bargains on brand-name suits from Calvin Klein, Armani, and DKNY. Tom Mihalik, the store's owner, keeps his prices low. He carries some women's clothes as well. 190 Baldwin St. 416/596-0297.

For the best in vintage, head to Kensington Markets' Courage My Love, a shop that pulls off a fusion of retro and bohemian treasures, from sunglasses to tuxedos. The in-house cat adds a nice touch. 14 Kensington Ave. 416/979-1992.

Pick out a loud Betsey Johnson evening dress or punky BCBG suit among the trendy pieces at Kitsch Boutique, a shop full of imports from Miami, New York, Los Angeles, and France. Swing through the basement at the Lonsdale branch, where slow sellers are relegated until they're scooped up at half-price. Two locations: 347 Bay St., Downtown, 416/861-9572. 325 Lonsdale Rd. 416/481-6712.

Patriotic Torontonians head to Roots for their favorite leather jackets, bags, and basics, including apparel similar to the Olympic uniforms the company designs for Canada, the U.S., Barbados, and Great Britain. Several locations: 1485 Yonge St., 416/967-4499; 2670 Yonge St. 416/482-6773; 356 Queen St. W, 416/977-0409; Eaton Centre, 220 Yonge St., 416/593-9640; 100 Bloor St. W, 416/323-3289.

Foot Fetish

What Zola lacks in size it makes up for in selection. The little shop sells women's shoes including designs by Sigerson Morrison and Emma Hope. 1726 Avenue Rd. 416/783-8688.

The Mephisto Boutique is a must stop for those with finicky feet. Around since the 1960s, the company only uses natural materials to make its signature shoes. Passionate walkers swear by these shoes and claim they never, ever wear out---even on cross-Europe treks. 1177 Yonge St., 416/968-7026.

Home Interiors

After browsing the Art Gallery of Ontario, a stop off at the AGO Gallery Shop will overwhelm with a wide selection of curiosities, from books on maximal architecture to colorful dollhouses to prints of celebrated paintings. Adults and kids can shop side by side among the books and fun educational toys. 317 Dundas St. W. 416/979-6610.

Club Monaco's flagship home-concept store, Caban, is bright and big, with themed departments, a listening booth, a kitchen, and a fireplace. You can also buy clothing, books, and music. 262-264 Queen St. W. 416/596-0386.

Gems of the Literary and Musical Sort

Well-known and well-frequented, Vintage Sound and Kops Records occupy the same building making it an ideal stop for any music lover. Vintage Sound sells vinyl, 45s, LPs, and CDs from the '50s to '80s, while downstairs Kops offers more contemporary finds, with reggae, hip hop, jazz, and soul. The stores are independently owned, but you must walk through Kops to get to Vintage. 229 Queen St. W. Vintage: 416/598-4039. Kops: 416/593-8523.

At Pages Books and Magazines shelves brim with international and small-press literature, fashion and design books, literary criticism, fiction, and books on film and art. 256 Queen St. W. 416/598-1447.

The Great Outdoors

A much-beloved Toronto spot for anyone remotely interested in camping, Mountain Equipment Co-op sells wares for minor and major expeditions. A baffling assortment of backpacks allows you to choose anything from a schoolbag to a globe-trotting sack, and a rock-climbing wall allows you to try out the rappelling goods. 400 King St. W. 416/340-2667.

Just Back From Alaska

Felice Aarons took a nine-day Inside Passage Cruise on a Cruise West small ship (it holds 104 people, but there were only about 60 on board). She boarded in Juneau, sailed through Glacier Bay National Park, Frederick Sound, Tracy Arm, and Misty Fjords National Monument, made port calls at Skagway, Haines, Sitka, Petersburg and Metlakatla, and finally disembarked in Ketichikan.

What was your best find?
I fell in love with a small town called Haines. I went on a great bird-watching shore excursion where we saw lots of bald eagles and other amazing birds, as well as seals playing in a river. The town is very charming, too, with a long boardwalk, a great local coffee shop, a good bakery, and strangely enough, a brand new indoor skateboarding facility. Apparently it's a great place to come back to and rent a cabin for a few days.

What was overrated?
Perfectly preserved Skagway is one of the most popular ports of call, but it is really commercial (it even has a Starbucks!), and everything from the scantily clad women sitting in the windows of the historic brothel to the Red Onion saloon to the diamond stores is very touristy. Thankfully, there is a great train shore excursion that tells you all about gold rush history and takes you on a beautiful trip through snow-covered mountains.

What was essential during your trip?
A waterproof parka with a hood and zip-out fleece lining. It can start to rain at any moment, and go from T-shirt and shorts weather to frigid within an hour. So, having adjustable, waterproof outerwear was indispensable. Also, I was glad I brought a lot of books, because there is a lot of downtime on cruises, especially on days without port calls.

What was the best thing you ate or drank?
All of the hype about the fish in Alaska is rightly deserved. Even though we sailed before the salmon start running, every meal's menu featured some kind of seafood as an option. Every time we stopped in a port, the chef procured a supply of something amazing, like Dungeness crab or fresh red snapper.

What advice do you have for someone going to Alaska?
If you're thinking of cruising in Alaska, try to book on a small ship. It's the best way to visit Alaska, because you'll see much more wildlife and get to visit smaller and more beautiful ports of call that large ships can't reach.

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Austria
  
• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

All Inclusives: Read the Fine Print

by Lisa Oppenheimer

The average all-inclusive vacation resort touts some pretty big promises.
Everything is included, to quote from one brochure: luxurious accommodations, fabulous food, drinks, world-class entertainment, exciting activities---the whole enchilada.

But "mostly inclusive" might better describe the genre.

True, in most cases, your day-to-day necessities and entertainment needs are amply met, and food is dished out til your bathroom scale begs for mercy. But it's a miscalculation to think you won't be digging into your pockets at all during your stay. Like that all-too-familiar toy disclaimer, additional parts are sold separately. And it's those very things that your kids will want most.

One Price Fits All?

All-inclusives came of age in the 1970s, when Club Med popularized the concept for singles. Couples resorts followed. Today, family all-inclusives are making their mark from St. Lucia to Turks and Caicos, and from Jamaica to the floating hotels known as cruise ships.

Many travel agents recommend them for families with many kids and fussy eaters; enormous buffets suit the "little of this, little of that" appetite (anyone who's ever tried to satisfy a picky little gourmand via pricey room service knows what I'm talking about) while teenage boys can be fed without mortgaging the house.

Land Excursions

Seasoned travelers know enough to budget extra cash for some excursions not included in the deal. Most seven-day vacations will include at least a couple off-property excursions. A swim with dolphins, for example, runs about $100 per person---more than small change if you're traveling with a family of four.

The sting of these excursion fees is especially sharp on cruise ships. On one Bahamian cruise, my family and I were greeted with a list of land excursions---from snorkeling expeditions to bus tours---with costs ranging from $12 to $75 per person (prices for children were slightly less). By the end of a seven-day cruise, you could easily have a $700 tab.

Ask your travel agent about alluring trips that will attract your kids. A favorite escape during our all-inclusive stay in the Bahamas was a day trip aboard an old-time sea vessel (vividly advertised at check-in). Grand total: $400. We wouldn't have missed it, but we also certainly wouldn't have gone had we not budgeted for it in advance.

Sports

Sports is the mama of all extras. "In most places, you're going to pay extra for those kinds of things," says Edward McCourt, a Certified Travel Consultant from Quinnwell Travel in Wellesley, Massachusetts. McCourt suggests vigorously sussing out the recreation options in your package. What's included may vary significantly from property to property. Spa facility fees are mostly---but not always---complimentary, but you'll absolutely pay extra if you're planning on any treatments. Tennis and squash courts may be free, but bring your rackets, as you'll probably have to pay to rent them. Most packages do not include golfing fees.

Sailing craft are free as often as not. Snorkels, masks and fins are usually free, but may have a time limit (note: bring masks from home if you can, keeping in mind that the one-size-fits-all variety is often useless on little faces, leaving kids to snorkel miserably with a face-full of salt water). On-property snorkeling is free, but the most interesting underwater sights are usually somewhere else. The latter will cost you, if not for the snorkeling itself, then for the transportation to get there and back.

With motorized sports, think second mortgage. Your teenagers will zero in on the jet-ski ads the moment they arrive at the resort. Costs can climb to $60 an hour and up. Parasailing is another costly venture. Set up your budget and stick to your guns.

Not-So-Incidentals

Before shutting off your calculator, consider how these other "little" extras might affect your bottom line.

Shopping: While this seems like an obvious extra for any trip, you may be caught off-guard by the big-ticket price of what should be small-ticket items. Those who linger on resort grounds will want to budget cash for those absurdly expensive trinkets you'll be wangled into buying. Twenty-five-dollar T-shirts anyone?

Beverages: In resorts that do not include them, beverages are notoriously expensive (and we're not just talking alcohol). Even "virgin" drinks can cost more than $5, while sodas hover around $1 to $2. And it adds up, especially when balmy weather has you drinking in large quantities. Some cruise-ship passengers resort to buying their drinks at port and keeping them in an ice bucket. Another option: ask about pre-paid cards (available on some ships) to keep a lid on kids' soft-drink tabs.

Tipping: Some all-inclusive resorts on land include tipping, but McCourt advices travelers to bring additional cash for extras. Most cruise ships (save the most exclusive) have made tipping all but obligatory (cruise staff make a good portion of their wages via tips). Between wait staff and cabin staff, a seven-night trip for a family of four could tack a couple of hundred dollars onto your final bill. Most cruises and resorts will offer tip suggestions, but remember: ultimately, the reward should reflect the quality of service.

Upscale Dining: More and more all-inclusives (like Iberostar) are taking the boredom out of dining by building in a la cart restaurants. Not all are included in the up-front tab, but the fee may well be worth it. As one weary traveler put it, "Seven days of buffets can get tired."

Departure taxes: Departure taxes are fees paid to an island government when you leave---approximately $10-$20 per person depending on the island. This is one expense you'll absolutely have to budget for (and cash only)---that is, assuming you're planning on leaving.

Child Care: Most all-inclusives on land or sea include supervised kids clubs by day. But many begin charging upwards of $10 per child per hour for evenings. Make sure to put a stash aside if you plan on a romantic soiree or two.

Insurance: Many travelers turn up their noses at insurance, even policies offered as standard add-ons to a package. Big mistake, says McCourt. "People tend to think of travel insurance as some giant scam," he says, "until something happens." Policies start around $100, but McCourt advises consumers to shop around. "Look very carefully at what you're buying to make sure you're completely covered," he says.

Venice: City of the Dammed?

Two news stories about Venice this week impressed upon us the difficulties this magical city faces at the beginning of the 21st century.
The first one described efforts behind the extravagantly titled Moses Project, a multibillion-dollar proposal to build 78 underwater movable dams around the lagoon to mitigate damaging tidal surges.

Another project on Venice's horizon is a proposed five-mile subway that will run from the airport underneath the Venetian lagoon to the city's historic center. According to The New York Times, Venice Mayor Paolo Costa believes the train will "breathe life back into Venice," a city whose population is half of what it was a century ago and continues to shrink owing to loss of jobs because of the city's remove from the mainland.

The subway hasn't yet been approved, and if it does get the green light no one will see it until 2009. Still, it's clear that La Serenissima is about to undergo dramatic changes. Personally, we're hoping for a lot of collaboration among the engineers on these projects. If not, all the dire predictions of long-term ecological disaster to the lagoon will only make a bad situation worse. ---Chris Culwell

Photo Credit: Corbis

Overlooked and Underrated: Ouro Preto, Brazil

Where? Ouro Preto, about 210 miles north of Rio de Janeiro and 97 miles southeast of Belo Horizonte.

Why? This is where you'll see some of the best examples of baroque architecture in Brazil. It's also the best place to see the work of legendary Brazilian artist Aleijadinho.

The surrounding mountains, the geometric rows of whitewashed buildings, the cobblestone streets and red-tile roofs that climb the hillsides, and the morning mist and evening fog give the town an evocative, pastoral air.

Tasty treat: Queijo do minas, a mild, soft, white cheese often served with fruit or fruit jam.

Top outing: Brazil's oldest gold mine, where you can ride an old mining car through the tunnels and see exposed quartz, graphite, and black tourmaline.

Best restaurant: Le Coq d'Or. The finest restaurant in the region and one of the best in Brazil. The executive chef trained in Paris at the Cordon Bleu culinary institute. The ever-changing menu reflects his Gallic flights of fancy, but with many unusual Brazilian touches. It's in the Solar Nossa Senhora do Rosario hotel.

Where to stay: Luxor Ouro Preto, a 19th-century lodge-style hotel. Guest rooms have views of the city, and you shouldn't miss a meal at the small romantic restaurant, where you can indulge in mineria cuisine.

Don't leave without: Shopping for gemstones. An excellent source for authentic gems---topazes, emeralds, tourmalines---is Luiza Figueiredo Joias (Rua Conde de Bobadela 48).

Don't miss: Igreja de Sao Francisco de Assis, the most impressive of the town's many baroque churches. In addition to designing the structure, Aleijadinho was responsible for the wood and soapstone sculptures on the portal, high altars, pulpits, and crossing arch.

How to get here: Belo Horizonte, the gateway to the region, has two airports. A flight from Rio or Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte is less than an hour. By bus or car the trip takes roughly six hours, mostly because of the bad roads.

10 Tips for Smarter Packing

Lighten your load with this crash course in wardrobe planning.

Savvy globetrotters seem to know instinctively how to travel with less. If you're seriously disciplined, you could conceivably go for months at a time with a small shoulder-strap cabin bag. Of course, not all travelers want to live out of a carry-on bag. There are times when you want to have more with you. Still, efficient packing will save you time and allow room for your purchases.

For our favorite packing strategies, read on:

1. Think it through

Is this a business trip on which you'll dress to impress? Or a cruise or resort vacation where casual clothing is the order of the day? As your itinerary comes together, make a schedule of your days and evenings, and next to each activity note possible outfits, including shoes and accessories. This will help you determine your clothing needs for the trip.

2. Make a list

In a recent Fodor's survey, 29 percent of respondents said they make lists at least one week before a trip. Lists can be used at least twice -- once to pack and once to repack at the end of your trip. This way you'll be sure to remember everything you've brought with you.

3. Know local customs

Local dress codes should be key to your wardrobe. In some resort areas, an anything-goes attitude applies, whereas in others many restaurants frown on diners with bare feet or those wearing shorts, bathing suits, or even T-shirts. Going abroad? In many places, traditions of dress differ from ours; check with your destination's tourist office and consult a good guidebook. A dignified look goes a long way: think skirts below the knee or trousers, and shirts that cover shoulders and elbows.

4. Heed the comfort factor

It goes without saying that you should never leave on a trip without well-broken-in shoes. Similarly, don't run out and buy a new wardrobe. You will probably want to wear each item you bring several times during your trip, so you're better off with clothing you know and love -- clothes that are comfortable and make you feel good.

5. Keep transit plans in mind

Remember, you have to get there from here. If there's one thing that can turn a pack rat into a minimalist, it's a vacation spent lugging everything you've packed over long distances. Consider how you're getting to your destination and how you'll be getting around once you arrive. Packing light is less critical on trips when you're driving with your family and staying in one place than when you're flying on an airplane and moving around once you land.

6. Do the wash-and-wear math

You can pack fewer items if you don't mind doing laundry in a hotel sink or if you will be staying in one place long enough to have laundry and dry cleaning done during your trip. You'll have to pack more if you'll be moving at a dead run for most of your journey, changing hotels every day, or if you don't trust the quality of the local laundries and dry cleaners to handle the clothes you want to take.

7. Make your clothes work hard

Stick to one basic wardrobe look -- urban chic, for instance, or sporty casual -- and choose clothes that you can wear at least twice in a week (three times is better). When all your tops go with all your bottoms and all your bottoms work with all your shoes, mixing and matching can yield plenty of fresh looks; just add scarves and jewelry. (For a week's trip, you should look smashing with three bottoms, four or five tops, a sweater, and a jacket that can be worn alone or over the sweater.)

8. Watch your colors

Similarly, try to build your wardrobe around just two or three complementary colors, preferably two neutrals and one accent, such as black, white, and olive green. If everything goes together, you'll get more mileage out of fewer pieces. And remember that prints and dark colors don't show spots and soil as quickly -- think black T-shirts rather than white ones.

9.Practicality rules

As much as is possible, pack items that are lightweight, wrinkle resistant, compact, and washable. Slimmer silhouettes, for instance, will generally pack tighter than flared or ruffled looks. Clothes made of fabric with built-in wrinkles tend to travel beautifully, while lightweight linen creases like crazy. Try this simple wrinkling test: Intentionally fold a piece of fabric between your fingers for a couple of minutes. If it refuses to crease, it will probably come out of your suitcase looking fresh as well.

10. Follow the weather

Start checking the temperatures for your destination a week before your trip. Having up-to-date weather information allows you to revise your packing list appropriately and to consider buying sunscreen, insect repellent, long johns, or whatever else you may need for the weather. If rain is in the offing, waterproof your shoes with a good silicone spray. And be sure to consider the humidity level.

Package Deals to See D.C.'s New Sluggers

This summer, one city's loss is another city's gain. The Montreal Expos are now the Washington Nationals, and the baseball team's inaugural season is well underway at RFK Stadium. While little was expected from the Nationals in their first season, the team now stands at the top of the National League East Division. Game tickets, costing from $7-$45, are still available.

In response to the success of the hometown favorites, several D.C. area hotels are offering packages to lure fans of America's favorite pastime to the nation's capitol to catch the Nationals in action:

Photo courtesy of the Washington Nationals

New York: 22 Hot Shopping Destinations

It's been said that you can find just about anything in New York, whether it be used jodhpurs or $10,000 andirons. Here's a shopping itinerary to fit general needs, but if you're really jonesing for jodhpurs and andirons you're sure to find them at one of these places. Fodor's New York shopping pages have exact addresses to these and other great stores, shops, and boutiques.

Antiques
Spend two hours at the Manhattan Art & Antiques Center on 2nd Avenue at East 55th Street, probably your best bet for andirons; then swing over to East 57th Street for a posh array of European, American, and Asian treasures. Stroll westward across East 57th Street, stopping at Israel Sack Inc., nearby on 5th Avenue, for its superb American antique furniture. Then head up Madison Avenue to Didier Aaron, Barry Friedman Ltd., and Leigh Keno in the East 60s, and DeLorenzo, Leo Kaplan, and Florian Papp in the East 70s.

Bargains
Begin by checking for any sample sales---you're bound to find some---and hit them first. Then head down to the lower tip of Manhattan to discount emporium Century 21, which has amazing bargains, not to mention a lot of junk. You have to spend time looking through the dross for the good stuff, but you're sure to find something if patient. Then take a cab to Hester and Orchard streets and shop north along Orchard Street to East Houston Street; be sure to stop in at Klein's of Monticello. Go a bit further north into NoLita to check out Find Outlet for boutique fashions, then hustle west to tackle Loehmann's for a range of men's and women's clothing, from inexpensive basics to designer items. A reminder: many Lower East Side shops are closed Saturday. If you're in midtown, trek east to Lexington and 59th Street and the new H&M. This bargain wonder is awfully close to Bloomie's, but not the prices.

Home Furnishings
Start with a bang at ABC Carpet & Home on Broadway; this phenomenal emporium could eat up hours on end, so keep an eye on the time and move on to Greenwich Village to William--Wayne & Co. for elegant decorative items (or try to stop by the uptown branches, which are larger). If your bags aren't too heavy yet, head down to SoHo, making sure not to miss Moss and Design Within Reach, then walk east and poke around De Vera and the pocket-size boutiques on Elizabeth Street between East Houston and Spring streets.

Get back into a big frame of mind at the new Crate & Barrel at the corner of Houston and Broadway, then cab it back uptown to the Terence Conran Shop for something modish. Finally, if you're looking for basics, head over to Bloomingdale's, open late on Thursday, or to Macy's, open late Monday, Thursday, and Friday.

Overlooked and Underrated: Girona, Spain

Why? A colorful medieval town perched on a hillside and steeped in history. The city's charm and historical depth come from its narrow medieval streets and architecturally alluring cathedral and castle.

Location: In Catalonia, 60 miles northeast of Barcelona.

Top Outing: The walk along the Passeig Arquaeologic, outside the city walls, where you'll get an astounding view of the cathedral's 11th-century Charlemagne Tower (pictured right).

Don't Miss: The Banys Arabs, or Arab Baths. These compelling examples of Moorish and Romanesque design were built by Morisco craftsmen in the late 12th century and are evocative of an important historical period in Spanish history.

Also worth seeing is the haunting Jewish Quarter. Before the Jews were expelled in 1492, they were forbidden to have doors or windows facing the street. The entire population lived in a maze of small, steeply sloping streets completely cut off from the rest of the city. The enclave, both atmospheric and haunting, is rich with history. The Museum of Jewish History (Carrer de la Forca 8) has one of the finest collections of medieval Jewish funerary slabs in the world.

Taste Sensation: The menu at Girona's finest restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, is international, but with a Catalonian twist. Expect everything from steak tartare with mustard ice cream to trotters with sea slugs. Carretara de Taiala 40. 972/222157.

Where to Stay: At Ultonia, the spacious and comfortable rooms are traditionally furnished with antique corner cabinets and sturdy tables. The staff is friendly and exceptionally accommodating. Gran Via Jaume 1 22. 972/203850.

Just Back From Austria

This May, Robert I.C. Fisher, editor of Fodor's Vienna to Salzburg, traveled to Austria and found nearly everyone in a tizzy getting ready for January 27, 2006---the kick-off for a yearlong, razzle-dazzle party to honor the 250th birthday of its most famous homeboy, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.

Why Austria?

Raindrops on roses. And whiskers on kittens. Bright copper kettles, and...need we say more? Yes, lots more: glittering Baroque churches, breathtaking Alpine mountains, sugar-coma desserts in Vienna coffeehouses, and Mozart, Mozart, Mozart! Salzburg's hills are alive not just with the Sound of Music sites but the sounds of bulldozers: new Mozart concert halls are nearing completion while the city's hilltop Museum der Moderne---a contemporary art museum---opened last year. But if the country is hopping to a hip new beat, the white-gloved, champagne gemütlichkeit of once-imperial Austria is still there to enjoy. In fact, I was tempted to get my very own waltzing certificate at Vienna's Tanzschule Elmayer.

What was the highlight of your trip?

A native New Yorker, I'm one of those people who thinks the Matterhorn is a tuba. Never having seen real mountains (yawn) before, I almost literally walked on air during my Sound of Music tour through the Salzkammergut lake district, where the majestic peaks surrounding St. Gilgen---the town with the candle-snuffer cupola'ed church glimpsed in the first minute of the film---create an overwhelming view of Alpine splendor. Paging Julie Andrews's big-screen entrance!

What was the best thing you ate?

Vienna's sausage stands are famous so I had to enjoy the best of the würsts---a Käsekrainer at the Opera stand, located behind the state opera house. This bratwurst---studded with melted cheese bits, grilled to perfection, and served with a mountain of mustard and a mug of beer---was so delicious I "went native" the next morning and had it for breakfast.

What surprised you?

Graz, Austria's third-biggest city, actually hides a storybook, once-upon-a-timefied Altstadt (old town) that seems built of gingerbread and barley sugar---you feel like you're in an 18th-century painting. And even a short excursion into the neighboring hills (head for Piber's spectacular Lipizzaner horse estate) takes forever, as nearly every inch of the countryside is worth a look, especially along the Schilcher Wine Road.

What advice do you have for anyone traveling to Salzburg?

Take in a performance at one of the city's modern concert halls (three of which host the famed Salzburg Music Festival every August), but be sure to time-warp back to Wolfie's day at the Mozart Dinner Concert, offered in the candlelit Baroque Hall of St. Peter's Abbey. The room's decor looked as if it had been squeezed out of a whipped-cream tube, the musicians were in brocade and velvet, the food was deli-schloss, and---the cherry on top---the melodies magnificent. Mozart rocks!

Robert I.C. Fisher is the editor of Fodor's Vienna to Salzburg guide.

Photo Credit: (1) Gunda Bleckmann (2) R. Fisher

Photo 1: Robert atop Salzburg's Mönchsberg hill---now the site of the Museum der Moderne, this terrace is famous as the setting for Julie Andrews's "Do-re-mi" in The Sound of Music movie.

Photo 2: A view of Mozart's Salzburg birthplace (the yellow house in the background).

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Colorado
  
• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Not all Kids Club are Equal

by Lisa Oppenheimer

No two kids clubs are the same. Just ask my daughters.

Veterans of kids clubs worldwide, both have experienced the ups and downs of supervised resort programs, from a stellar club in St. Lucia (endless scavenger hunts and seashell forays) to a less than stellar one in Antigua (stale children's videos and cookies to match).

Finding the right kids club---and knowing what you're getting---is a challenge. Though many hotels tout shiny new kids clubs, differences in quality can be vast. A brochure's boast of "Lots of things for your kids to see and do" may translate into "We have coloring books and a VCR." So it's a good idea to check around.

The first question to ask yourself is how much you plan to use hotel child care. The most basic child care (a safe, well-supervised play room with some toys) will do for a single evening. A TV-deprived child might even be grateful for a couple of hours of coloring and watching videos while mom and dad dine on foie gras.

At Disney World, a handful of supervised clubs scattered throughout the resorts are open from roughly late afternoon to midnight, catering to parents longing for a meal devoid of chicken nuggets. They're all roughly souped-up play places, but there are qualitative differences. Some are cleaner, others jazzier. The Neverland Club, with its entrance through the Darling children's bedroom window, has a food buffet that my oldest daughter, now a teen, still talks about today.

A trip that hinges on the kids being happily entertained is a whole other matter. Hyatt's Camp Hyatt has a great reputation for elaborate programs that keep kids busy indoors and out. Other "camps" can be found at some Loews, Four Seasons, and Ritz Carlton properties as well as at many all-inclusive resorts and on cruise ships. Some are so good that kids actually beg to go back. Just like enrolling your kids in school, you'll want to ask some basic questions:

Ratio: Care-giver-to-child ratios can vary vastly from hotel to hotel, and from age group to age group. At Club Med, three-year-olds have a maximum ratio of 4.5 to 1; similarly aged children on the Disney Cruise line will find a ratio of 15-to-1. Even if you're not bothered by high ratios, make sure your child won't feel lost in the crowd.

Care Givers: What are the qualifications of child-care providers? Are they first-aid trained? Is there a trained water-safety and rescue expert? If there are no enrollment limitations, how are they handling the overflow?

Facility: How old is the facility? What's in it? Do children have the option of leaving the premises or will they spend all supervised time within four walls?

Program: Elaborate facilities don't always guarantee the best program. One resort we visited spent so much time focused on its state-of-the-art educational software and science gizmos that my children said it felt like school.

Ages: Don’t assume a resort with a kid club will automatically accommodate your child. Club Med's clubs entertain kids from age 4 months to 17 years, but not every age group is accommodated at every resort.

Rates: Some resorts include the kids club in the room rate, others charge by the hour or by the day.

Hours of Operation: Some programs don't operate on weekends; others scale back hours off-season. On the other hand, ultra-low ratios of off-season travel can net excitingly individualized experiences. My kids still remember the trip when being the only two in the club netted them special privileges, like making desert in the kitchen with the chef.

Size Limitations: In order to maintain ratios, many programs limit the number of children enrolled in the club. Some cruises and resorts (such as Club Med) allow you to sign the kids up ahead of time. Others only do registration on site. Be sure to ask, as programs can fill up quickly. On cruises, programs can get booked before the ship leaves port, so if you haven't signed them up, run (don’t walk!) to the kids's club desk on the day of embarkation. Most of the information can be culled from reservationists, but you’ll have to ask specifically as it's not usually volunteered.

Photo: Club Med, Ixtapa

The Return of 'Tut'

Tutankhamen and the Golden Age of Pharaohs was the first museum show to wear the moniker "blockbuster." When it first toured the U.S. in the late 1970s, the exhibit of artifacts from graves of Egypt's 18th dynasty drew millions of unexpected visitors on both the east and west coasts, creating a sensation among museumgoers. Museum curators are hoping for a similar reception this fall when "King Tut" returns to the United States for a national tour. The first stop on the tour is the Los Angeles County Museum, where the 100-plus objects from Tut's tomb will be on view from June 16 through November 15. The exhibit then moves to Florida's Fort Lauderdale Museum of Art and then to Chicago's Field Museum. Philadelphia's Franklin Institute is the show's final stop in the U.S.

Tickets for the LA County Museum's "Tut" show are on sale now, contact the museum box office (323) 857-6000.

15 Sizzling Hot Miami Shops

People fly to Miami from all over the world just to shop. With 13 shopping centers, Miami's Design District, and boutique-crammed Lincoln Road, this is a tough town to leave empty-handed.

Garments and Garb

For women's fashions by Barbara Bui, Catherine Malandrino, and other up-and-coming designer clothing and accessories, Chroma is where local fashionistas go. 920 Lincoln Rd. 305/695-8808.

Silvia Tcherassi, the Colombian designer's signature boutique in the Village of Merrick Park, has feminine and frilly dresses and separates accented with chiffon, tulle, and sequins. 358 San Lorenzo Ave. 305/461-0009.

Little Havana's La Casa de las Guayaberas sells custom-made guayaberas, the natty four-pocket dress shirts favored by Latin men. Hundreds are also available off the rack. 5840 S.W. 8th St. 305/266-9683.

South Beach hipsters flock to Fly Boutique for the latest in used clothing. At this resale boutique, 1980s designer pieces fly out at a premium price, but vintage camisoles and Levi's are still a resale deal. Be sure to look up at the ceiling---the eclectic lanterns are also for sale. 650 Lincoln Rd. 305/604-8508.

You can indulge your favorite little person at designer children's boutique Alexa & Jack. The store carries pint-size fashions by D&G Junior, Moschino, and Sonia Rykiel, bathing suits by Vilebrequin, and baby clothes by Juicy Couture. There are also accessories and gift items. 635 Lincoln Rd. 305/534-9300.

Flashy Footwear

Koko & Palenki has a selection of men's and women's shoes and accessories by Casadei, Charles David, Stuart Weitzman, and Donald Pliner in its Coconut Grove, South Miami, and Aventura locations. CocoWalk, 3015 Grand Ave. 305/444-1772.

Proper Pampering

Brownes & Co. provides luxurious products to those who appreciate them most. Cosmetics include Molton Brown, Body & Soul, Le Clerc, and others. It also sells herbal remedies and upscale hair and body products from Bumble and Bumble. Try to resist something from the immense collection of scented European soaps in all sizes and colors. A popular in-house salon, Some Like It Hot (305/538-7544), offers some of the best waxing in town. 841 Lincoln Rd. 305/538-7544.

Unrivaled in the area for its immense offerings, The Fragrance Shop carries more than 800 perfume oils in a setting that resembles an 18th-century apothecary. The staff will customize a unique blend for you or sell you a hand-blown perfume bottle made by one of many international artisans. 612 Lincoln Rd. 305/535-0037.

Home Interiors

Holly Hunt is a spectacular 40,000-square-foot showroom of custom indoor and outdoor furniture, lighting, and fabrics by Holly Hunt and other revered designers, such as Christian Liaigre, John Hutton, Rose Tarlow, and Mattaliano. If you're going to buy, bring a designer, but browsing to see how the best of the best do home decor is free and inspiring. 3833 N.E. 2nd Ave. 305/571-2012.

Serious Miami-style furnishings and home accessories can be bought at Arango Design Store, which has been designing and selling cutting-edge home fashions since 1959. 7519 N Kendall Dr. 305/661-4229.

Eclectic Elements carries a playful collection of very Miami modern and retro furniture, mirrors, and clocks that would have pleased the Jetsons. 2227 Coral Way. 305/285-0899.

Architectural Antiques carries large and eclectic items---railroad crossing signs, statues, English roadsters---in a store so cluttered that shopping here becomes an adventure promising hidden treasures for the determined. 2520 S.W. 28th La. 305/285-1330.

Specialty Shops

9th Chakra offers inspirational books (in English and Spanish), crystals, jewelry, feng shui products, candles, essential oils, and music to meditate by. In a new location, the store offers even more gifts for the soul. Tarot card readings are performed in English and Spanish on alternating days. 530 Lincoln Rd. 305/538-0671.

Le Chocolatier tempts with hand-dipped and molded chocolate creations, many made into gift baskets and other gift items or eaten on the spot. You can linger to watch chocolate being made through a glass partition. 1840 N.E. 164th St. 305/944-3020

At El Credito Cigars, workers at wooden benches rip through giant tobacco leaves, cut them with rounded blades, wrap them tightly, and press them in vises. Dedicated smokers find their way here to pick up a $90 bundle or peruse the gigantes, supremos, panatelas, and Churchills available in natural or maduro wrappers. 1100 S.W. 8th St. 305/858-4162.

Cities by the Sea

Photo credit: Lisbon Tourism Association

Growing up, watching my parents struggle to choose our family's annual vacation destination was like watching a game of ping-pong. My Type A mom wanted to expose us to the great culture capitals of the world, but dad was keen on packing some folding chairs and a leaky red cooler into the car and heading to the beach. If only they'd known that picking a vacation spot doesn't have to be so black and white---sun and culture do mix, at least in some cities. Here are a few:

In Barcelona, your beloved can tour Gaudí's Sagrada Familia while you lounge in new swim trunks on Sant Pol de Mar, a beach just north of the city.

You can serenade your honey in a gondola in Venice, and then head for the city's Lido beaches for a walk hand-in-hand along its eight-mile shore.

Experience the vitality of Lisbon's Bairro Alto and then head to the Caparica Coast for sun and sardines.

Stateside, Los Angeles has some of the country's best museums---the Getty Center, the Los Angeles County Museum, the Norton Simon---as well as California's best beaches, including Santa Monica State Beach. ---Katie Hamlin

Other Urban Destinations With Beaches Nearby:

15 Funky and Fab Shops in San Francisco

With its swank boutiques, funky thrift stores, and the famous Union Square shopping district, which includes the San Francisco Shopping Centre and the Crocker Galleria, San Francisco is one of the best shopping destinations in the United States. From couture to counterculture, much of the city's appeal stems from the distinct personalities of its unique neighborhoods.

The Written Word

As the city's most famous and historically interesting bookstore, City Lights Bookstore is where the Beat movement of the 1950s was born, grew up, flourished, and then faltered. Best known for poetry, contemporary literature, and translations of Third World literature, City Lights also carries books on nature, the outdoors, and travel. 261 Columbus Ave. 415/362-8193.

Travel guides at Get Lost Travel Books range from standard to obscure. The store also carries language-instruction materials, luggage, and other travel accessories. 1825 Market St. 415/437-0529.

Garments and Garb

Expect big-time men's fashion at Billy Blue, where the goods include luxurious camel-hair coats, cashmere sweaters, and impeccably tailored Italian suits. 54 Geary Blvd. 415/781-2111.

Jeremy's, located in trendy South Park, offers steep discounts (up to 50%) on top-notch men's and women's apparel by designers such as Prada and Jil Sander. A collection of stunning evening wear is in the back. 2 South Park Rd. 415/882-4929.

For higher end fashion priced to please, the hipster set heads to Mingle for the handmade work of emerging designers as well as more established labels like Deity Aton, Marco Marco, and Quennie Forever. The men's section, featuring designs from Caffeine, is smaller but just as trendy. 1815 Union Street. 415/674-8811.

Flashy Footwear

From the chunky to the sleek, the European designs carried at Gimme Shoes are top-notch. And if $400 seems steep for a pair of sandals, perhaps you haven't seen the classic styles by designer Robert Clergerie. 2358 Fillmore St. 415/441-3040; 50 Grant Ave. 415/434-9242; 416 Hayes St. 415/864-0691.

Art Appreciation

Thousands of new and used CDs, records, and cassettes, including titles from punk and hip-hop to jazz and classical, are bargain-priced at Amoeba Music. Occasional in-store performances attract large crowds. 1855 Haight St. 415/831-1200.

The spectacular collection of international art and antiquities at Xanadu Gallery includes Latin American folk art, Oaxacan wood carvings, and tribal art from Africa, Oceania, and Indonesia. Masks, sculptures, woven baskets, tapestries and textiles, and books on art and culture are also displayed. If nothing else, the shop is worth a visit to see its Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home, where a spiral ramp recalls New York City's Guggenheim Museum. 140 Maiden Lane. 415/392-9999.

A spirit of fun imbues Hang, an industrial-chic space showcasing the work of up-and-coming artists. The range of prices rises from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand. A rental program lets you take a piece home before buying it. 556 Sutter St. 415/434-4264.

Foodie Fun

Billing itself as the oldest delicatessen west of the Rockies, Molinari Delicatessen has been making its own salami, sausages, and cold cuts since 1896. Other homemade specialties include meat and cheese ravioli, tomato sauces, and fresh pastas. In-the-know locals grab a made-to-order sandwich for lunch and eat it at one of the sidewalk tables. 373 Columbus Ave. 415/421-2337.

The egg-shape truffles, which come in 30-plus flavors, are best-sellers at the city's classiest chocolate purveyor, Joseph Schmidt Confections. However, the store's real eye-poppers are its edible chocolate sculptures, which vary from windmills to life-size turkeys. Cream-filled chocolate disks, called Slicks, are also a treat. 3489 16th St. 415/861-8682.

The upscale Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market places baked goods and fancy pots of jam alongside organic basil and heirloom tomatoes. The Saturday market is the grandest, with about 100 vendors packed both in front of and behind the building. Ferry Plaza, Embarcadero at north end of Market St. 415/291-3276.

The jumble of used cookware stacked to the ceiling at Cookin': Recycled Gourmet Appurtenances can be a little overwhelming. Luckily, the owner will point you in the right direction after quizzing you on your cooking plans. The merchandise runs the gamut from hand-hammered French copper pots to a bewildering selection of garlic presses. 339 Divisadero St. 415/861-1854.

Specialty Shops

A beloved Seattle-based co-op, REI was founded by a group of mountain climbers in 1938, but it didn't open a San Francisco outlet until 2003. In addition to a vast selection of clothing and outdoor gear, the store rents camping equipment and repairs snowboards and bikes. 840 Brannan St. 415/934-1938.

The furniture and objets d'art on display at Antonio's Antiques might include an 18th-century French harp or delicate tortoiseshell miniatures. If you like the shop's pieces, which lean toward French and Italian items from the 17th and 18th centuries, you may also want to visit its warehouse store. 701 Sansome St. Warehouse: 701 Bryant St. 415/781-1737.

Photo credit: Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, photographer Aaron Kohr

Go to Mongolia---No, Really!

If you're searching for some place truly exotic to go on your next trip, consider Mongolia. This small, landlocked country, ensconced between Russia and China, has long been a paradise for mountain climbers, camel trekkers, and fans of nomadic cultures. Is it easy to travel here? Not really. Airfares are in the thousands of dollars, flights are long, and comfortable accommodations are lacking. Paying a visit to Mongolia just got a little easier, however, with the opening of Mongolian Resorts, the country's first full-service resort. Located just 35 kilometers from the capital city, Ulaanbaatar, the resort offers all the usual amenities of home and then some. Expect roomy suites and villas, a restaurant serving international cuisine, a terrace bar, a spa and gym, swimming pool, tennis courts, a driving range, ATV park, library, and a movie theater. Mongolia Resorts rests on a vast acreage of pristine land (photo, above) and serves as an ideal expedition base for camel-treks through the somewhat forbidding countryside. The resort can arrange tours throughout the year for every level of thrill seeker.

MuseumWatch: New York, Bern

Friedlander, A Retrospective, Museum of Modern Art, New York, June 5 through August 29

Strange things happen in Lee Freidlander's photography. Sometimes the frame cuts off a figure mid-stride. In others, a pole surmounted by a shadow bisects an otherwise perfect composition, and in one image a fire hydrant and telephone poles form an entrancing geometric pattern over a desolate landscape. There's a wildly improvisational flair to these images, a readiness to use anything and everything in the environment for the purpose of art. His work is the visual equivalent of jazz, the music that inspired the photographer's earliest work in the 1950s and '60s. Half a century later the photographer is still churning out visual razzmatazz, as the Friedlander retrospective at MOMA well attests. The show, up through August 29, is the largest survey of Friedlander's work to date and includes 477 black-and-white images in addition to six early color portraits of jazz artists. Highlights include the famously droll series of TV sets tuned to soap opera stars and his hilarious and ironic look at American monuments. The strongest work in the show, however, are the photographer's 1960s images of America's urban landscape---busy city streets, abandoned shop fronts, billboards, trashed cars, and tacky architecture. ---Chris Culwell

Zentrum Paul Klee, Bern Switzerland

Swiss painter Paul Klee was an enormously prolific artist. At the time of his death in 1940 he left behind more than 5,000 paintings, drawings, and sketches. For years, the best place to see Klee's creations was Bern's Kunstmuseum, but the work was doled out piecemeal, making it hard to grasp the sweep of the artist's prodigious output. That problem has been solved with the opening this month of Zentrum Paul Klee, a multidisciplinary arts center in Bern, Switzerland. Designed by architect Renzo Piano, the center is designed to mimic the subtle undulations of the hills on which it rests, a clear reference to the delicate and lazy shapes conjured in Klee's singular work. The center is home to almost 4,000 of the artist's images, and will show them in rotating exhibits with traveling shows from other arts institutions. In addition to the exhibition space, Zentrum Paul Klee houses an activity center for children, a theater, and a concert hall. ---Chris Culwell

Photos: (top) New Mexico, 2001, Gelatin silver print, Collection of the photographer, 2005 Lee Freidlander; (bottom) Zentrum Paul Klee

Hotels for the Whole Family?

by Lisa Oppenheimer

The best accessory I ever got for my family's vacation was a door. Not just any door, but the one separating my children's hotel room from my own.

Don't get me wrong---I love my children. I just love them a lot more if I don't have to sleep with them. The last time we vacationed in one hotel room there were traffic jams to the bathroom, nightly games of musical beds, and an Olympic-caliber obstacle course made up of two double beds, two children, a half-dozen suitcases, and approximately five stuffed animals per child.

While some families may have mastered the art of communal living, my brood is not among them. We need a buffer zone, if not for sleep then at least to get a little peace during our downtime.

For most families, the one-room squeeze is born of economics. Let's face it: two rooms at your average Ritz are going to be pricey. Happily, more and more hotels are offering multi-room setups that won't completely empty your wallet.

"That seems to be the thing families want most," says Brian Shanle, general manager of Orlando's new Nickelodeon Family Suites Holiday Inn, an all-suite hotel that, as the name suggests, specializes in family accommodations.

Two-and three-bedroom suites (see photo) have Nickelodeon themes and bunk beds in the kids' room (divided from the rest by a curtain), a master bedroom for mom and dad, plus a living room with a sofa bed. Add that to that in-room video games, a nightly show, and even a kids' spa, and you've got a theme-park vacation where you might actually get some shuteye, and for less than you might pay for just one room at a loftier chain. Rates for a two-bedroom are $169 to $250 depending on season, although deals are available on-line.

Other all-suite hotels shouldn't be overlooked just because they don't have Nickelodeon's bells and whistles. Sure, decor at such chains as Embassy Suites may be less playful than the Holiday Inn's, but the rooms are perfectly nice---and you still get that all-important door.

Wyndham's line of Summerfield Suites offers spacious one- and two-bedroom accommodations at reasonable rates. The Los Angeles area's Summerfield isn't at Disneyland, but as it's near many of the area's famous landmarks, it makes a nice home base.

Before you book your family into that hotel---either suite or cramped room---consider these points:

Know what you're asking for: In hotelspeak, "adjoining rooms" and "connecting rooms" are not the same thing. The former refers to rooms next to each other; the latter has an actual door joining them. Also, if booking connecting rooms, make sure the arrangement can be guaranteed; many hotels (such as Disney) only concede to put in a "request," an inconvenience if you discover only upon check in that the request cannot be met. Even if they guarantee it, call the front desk the morning of your arrival to confirm.

Ask About Deals: At low season, some hotels offer unadvertised deals such as "buy one room, get the second half off," so ask when making reservations.

Be Time Wise: Corporate hotels (such as Summerfield) are often discounted on weekends, making Fridays and Saturdays a good time to visit.

Think Economy: Two rooms in a budget property often cost less than one in an ultra-deluxe haunt. True, you won't get all the luxury; but those shiny perks will lose their luster if you’re looking at them through sleep-deprived eyes.

Ask Questions: A number of chains have begun incorporating family suites into their hotels. Such accommodations are often significantly cheaper than traditional luxury suites. But specify your requirements: some so-called suites have only a partition (versus a full wall) between sleeping areas; others may be no more than an L-shaped room.

Shoot for the Stars: The price difference between a one-bedroom (where mom and dad share the sofa bed in the living room while the kids lavish in the master bedroom) and a two-bedroom (where everyone gets a real bed) is often less than you might think. One weekend at a Summerfield, the difference was a mere $20. But you won't know unless you ask.

Just Back From Colorado

Mary Beth spent six days in the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, following the San Juan Skyway. She started in Ouray, crossed the white-knuckle Million Dollar Highway over Red Mountain Pass into Durango, made a quick detour west into the Four Corners area, then headed east to Pagosa Springs. She crossed the Wolf Creek Pass on her way up to Colorado Springs, where she ended her trip atop Pike's Peak.

What was your favorite part of the trip?

Horseback riding at the Wilderness Trails Ranch. One morning we rode up into a peaceful mountain meadow with amazing views. Other highlights: crossing the gorgeous Wolf Creek Pass; talking archaeology with a park ranger at Mesa Verde; standing at the foot of the tallest sand dunes in North America and looking up at the snow-covered peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains; and soaking in the hot springs at Pagosa and watching the river visibly rise with the snowmelt.

What were your best finds?

The Colorado Kolsch at the Steamworks Brewing Company in Durango (their beer bread is also excellent). I loved hanging out in Durango, a laid-back college town where every car has either a dog in the backseat or a mountain bike strapped to its bumper, or both. There are a ton of restaurants, a couple of microbreweries, and some beautifully restored buildings.

What surprised you?

Mesa Verde is phenomenal. Somehow I had an image in my mind of a single cliff dwelling--that iconic picture of Cliff Palace that you see everywhere. I was stunned when I looked down into the canyon and saw that there are actually dwellings lining both of its sheer sides. It's incredible to think of those cities looking across the canyon at each other over the centuries.

What was essential during your trip?

I drank more water than I thought possible for a human being to drink. I was thirsty all the time. Bring a big water bottle or buy a case of the bottled stuff. At this altitude, you'll need it. I also used a ton of sunblock and escaped without a burn (and maybe a little tan).

What advice do you have for someone going to Southwest Colorado?

Plan your time carefully. It will take longer than you think to travel the mountain roads--you just can't go 70 miles an hour up there. Plus you'll be pulling over and jumping out for pictures constantly. The San Juans are ready-for-their-closeup beautiful. Also, do at least one of the "-ing" sports: hiking, biking, rafting, riding. It will be the highlight of your trip. Plus, when you're exhausted, you can go out for a really good beer.

Photo credit for photo #2: San Juan Mountain Range in southwest Colorado, Durango Area Chamber Resort Association, c/o Colorado Tourism Office

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

• Walt Disney World
  
• Las Vegas
  
• Brazil
  

Just Back From Walt Disney World

Emmanuelle Alspaugh, Fodor's Editor

In one week, Emmanuelle, her husband, and 14-year-old sister completed a whirlwind tour of the major Orlando theme parks, including Walt Disney World, Universal Orlando, and SeaWorld. Their method? A theme park per day, plus two on Day 7.

Why Walt Disney World?
When I was 14, a friend from school invited me to travel to Walt Disney World with her family. It was a generous gift and a trip that I never forgot. This year my sister Sophie turned 14, and I had the opportunity to arrange a similar experience for her.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
The coasters! Our favorites were the Hulk and Dueling Dragons at Universal's Islands of Adventure; Rock 'n' Roller Coaster at Disney MGM---Studios; and Space Mountain at the Magic Kingdom. Also, I loved the sense of fantasy conveyed by the colors, architecture, and landscaping of the theme parks. Another highlight: the hot-air balloon ride we took on our last morning.

What was essential?
Sneakers. The first time I went to Walt Disney World, I wore sandals, and after two days of pounding the pavement on quarter-inch soles, my feet were miserable. You definitely want comfortable sneakers when you're walking 12 hours a day. Also, sunglasses and a hat. And a cell phone, because it was easy to get separated. Lastly, a guidebook and a sense of humor---the crowds, the heat, the lines, the prices can all combine to drive you insane. (We saw at least two families per day having a total meltdown.) But with good planning and a sense of humor, that is definitely avoidable.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
One morning I advised Sophie to change her white pants for jeans because we planned to ride Kali River Rapids, a water ride at the Animal Kingdom. Sophie happened to get soaked through on the ride, and I remembered too late that jeans are just about the worst thing to wear when they're wet.

What advice do you have for someone going to Walt Disney World?
Avoid waiting in line by getting to the theme parks early and taking advantage of the free FASTPASS system, Disney's method of crowd management. Each morning we arrived at park opening (usually 9 a.m.) and rode the most popular rides first with little or no waiting. Then we would leave around 4 p.m., the hottest and most crowded part of the day. In the evening we often went back to the park for a few more rides or a show. Also, try to eat at off times, like lunch at 11 and dinner at 5:30, or breakfast at 10:30 and lunch at 2:30.

Photo credit: Second photo Splash Mountain by Walt Disney World©

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

"Fodorites" Rate the Best Romantic Getaways

Looking for a romantic spot to celebrate or rejuvenate your love? "Fodorites" have found bliss around the world, in isolated Caribbean sanctuaries, a four-star Gotham hotel, an old-world Parisian jewel---even a chintz-laden bed-and-breakfast in the countryside. Click on the links below to read the idiosyncratic Rants & Raves of travelers like you, followed by a Fodor's review. We've divided our sampling into four general categories: Island Idylls, Escapes to Nature, Big-City Pleasures, and Hideaways and Small Inns.


Island Idylls

Aruba: Bucuti Beach Resort

"Romance at its best." -- Jenni, Texas

"Blast at Bucuti." -- Kim, Connecticut

The Big Island, Hawai'i: The Fairmont Orchid

"Orchid blossoms." -- Carol, New York City

"Magical and elegant." -- Greg, Los Angeles

Jamaica: Sans Souci Resort & Spa

"We'll keep coming every 6 months until the money runs out." -- Dennis, New York

"Fun and upscale with out being pretentious.." -- Miss Lynn, Atlanta

Lanai, Hawai'i: Lodge at Ko'ele

"A truly beautiful hotel." -- Paul, Los Angeles

"Beautiful dreamland." -- Tim, London

St. Barth's: Hôtel Isle de France

"I cannot say enough about this romantic treasure." -- Kim, Minneapolis

"Classy, understated elegance." -- Pam, Dallas

St. Maarten: Hotel L'Esplanade Caraibes

"Just booked my third stay." -- Ben, New Jersey

"Reserve the loft studios which are fabulous and very romantic." -- Mary, Minneapolis

Escapes to Nature

Costa Rica: Makanda by the Sea

"The perfect honeymoon retreat" -- Victoria, Florida

" Jungle fun, Romantic Sunsets." -- Andrew, Georgia

Great Barrier Reef, Australia: Lizard Island Lodge

"Escape to your dreams." -- Nobel, Boston

"Romantic week." -- Clive, Hong Kong

Mexico: Maroma

"Paradise." -- Katherine, Atlanta

"Paradise found!" -- Shelly, New York City

Rocky Mountains: Riversong Bed and Breakfast Inn

"Beautiful setting." -- Heather, Denver

"Perfect romantic getaway. -- Lisa, Milwaukee

Big-City Pleasures


London: The Lanesborough

"A honeymoon made for royalty!" -- Cheryl, New York City

"Never have we been so satisfied and content." -- V, Richmond


New Orleans: House on Bayou Road

" A fantastic B&B" -- JoAnn, Germantown

"Hate to reveal this secret." -- Jayne, Chicago


New York: Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park South

"This IS the best hotel!" -- Lucy, Oklahoma City

"The service is impeccable and the decor is gorgeous." -- Kevin, Canada


Paris: Hôtel Lancaster

" A Fabulous Stay" -- Dr B, Baton Rouge

" A Special Place" -- Art, CT


Rome: Mecenate Palace Hotel

"Molto bene." -- M.H., Indianapolis

"Beautiful and elegant." -- J.C., New York City


San Francisco: The Archbishop's Mansion

" Heavenly!" -- Scott, Austin

"Absolutely gorgeous." -- Wendy, Los Angeles

Hideaways and Small Inns


Dominican Republic: Natura Cadanas

"A very magical place" -- Suzanne, New Jersey

"Its luxury is in its privacy." -- Nicole, New York City

Maui, Hawai'i: Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow

"A private, comfy and relaxing home base while exploring the beauty of Hana.." -- Stacey, New York

"Both the artfully designed interior and meticulously maintained garden are a balm for the soul." -- Bill, LA

Key West: Mermaid & The Alligator

"Truly lovely house." -- Cathy, Indiana

"Breath of fresh travel air." -- Rob, Elkhart

Santa Fe: Inn of the Anasazi

"Perfect for couples." -- Pat, Atlanta

"Romance at the inn." -- Michelle, Montana

For more advice from our "Fodorites," here are some forum's threads to honeymoon-related posts on the US Board, the Carribean Board, Europe Board and Latin America Board.

Looking for more assistance to that perfect honeymoon or romantic getaway? Go to our forums and ask.

Photo Credit: Fairmont Hotels & Resorts

A Bookworm's Tour of London

London. You'd might as well call it Bookville. There are thousands of bookstores here, and dozens of them are located on or around Charing Cross Road. When the Borders chain burst on the scene a few years back it was a wake-up call for the British Waterstone's chain. Books are big business, and that has been reflected in a welcome number of new bookstores. Foyles, with its enormous range, is the market leader.

GENERAL INTEREST BOOKS

History buffs, computer nerds, and thespians make regular pilgrimages to Blackwell's. Spacious and well organized, the retailer also stocks foreign-language books as well as academic texts. 100 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

A quirky, labyrinthine, family-run business, Foyles has undergone a massive modernization program. You'll find popular titles here in addition to new and unusual ones. Although it's had a makeover, Foyles retains certain musty, Victorian charms, right down to the sometimes strange shelving organization. 113--119 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Hatchards remains a bibliophile's dream. You can revel in its old-fashion charm while perusing the well-stocked shelves lining the winding stairs. The place has been in business for more than 200 years. Interesting book signings. 187 Piccadilly, St. James.

Browsing for books is a hedonistic leisure activity at Waterstone's, the monster-size, six-story store by Piccadilly Circus. A sweeping staircase takes you up to the fifth-floor Studio Lounge, where until 10 p.m. you can sip a gin-and-tonic while browsing through stacks of books. There's a gift shop, art gallery, coffee and juice bars, and the chairs are quite comfortable. 203--206 Piccadilly, St. James.

SPECIALTY BOOKS

Audio Books
For books on tape, Talking Bookshop has a large selection of fiction, autobiography, and famous memoirs in a selection to suit both adults and children. It's just behind Oxford Street. 11 Wigmore Street, Maryleborne.

Books for Children
In addition to kiddie books, the Children's Book Centre carries cards and a mass of multimedia products. When you're done with the books, head to the basement, where the toys are kept. 237 High St., Kensington.

Film Books
The Cinema Bookshop has every angle of the industry covered. A comprehensive selection of old and new books can be found here, covering everything from the industry's earliest efforts to its latest trends. 13 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury.

Cookbooks
Wanna learn how to make Bulgarian rice, a Cornish pasty, or the perfect vindaloo? Books for Cooks is the place to go. The store has cookbooks from around the globe as well as a complete line up of celebrity chef editions. Occasional cooking demonstrations offer tempting samples. 4 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill.

Gay and Lesbian
In the heart of London's gay community is Gay's the Word, a hot spot for literary and leisure interests, with a good selection of new and old books, magazines, and videos. 66 Marchmont Street, Bloomsbury.

Mysteries
English readers love mysteries and crime stories, and Murder One has them in abundance. This establishment is a must for fans of traditional Agatha Christie novels and sci-fi stories. It has everything from crimes of passion to fiendish horror. 71--73 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Secondhand Books
Patience is rewarded with real finds at Fisher & Sperr, which has fine secondhand books as well as new titles. The bay shop front displays prints of old London views, and inside is a section devoted to the history of the capital. 46 High Street, Highgate.

Travel Books
Stanfords, spread over several floors, specializes in travel books and maps. If you've been looking for multi-language travel books, this is the best place to go. 12 Long Acre, Covent Garden.

Expect the world at The Travel Bookshop, which is great for globetrotters and armchair travelers alike. Fans of Hugh Grant will recognize this cozy space from the actor's movie, Notting Hill. 13 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill.

Women's Books
When the shop couldn't pay the rent, the management of Foyles gave it room on the third floor of their building. Silver Moon stocks the largest choice of literature---from politics to romance---for women, by women. 113--119 Charing Cross Road, Soho.

Check Out America's Halls of Fame

"There's no place like home." Dorothy's mantra from The Wizard of Oz has taken on new meaning as Americans forgo expensive trips abroad for adventures close to home. If you've already gambled at a Las Vegas casino, posed with Mickey at Disney World, and sampled the splendors of Yosemite, consider something a little different, like a pilgrimage to one of America's many halls of fame.

The choices are even more diverse than you might think. Strippers, inventors, bowlers, and gospel singers all have halls of fame, and the famous and unknown featured in these pages are equally exceptional. The halls they grace are guaranteed to yield a highly entertaining and educational experience.

Halls of Fame
Burlesque Bowling Inventors Motorcycles	Rodeo Gospel Music Astronauts Baseball	Country Music Football Police Rock 'n Roll

Overlooked and Underrated: Dominica

Why: It's a nature lover's paradise and the Caribbean's best-kept secret.

Tasty treat: The Caribbean's special mountain chicken---a spicy fried frog's leg.

Top outing: Hiking to Boiling Lake's bubbling cauldron of blue water to watch the gases escape from the molten lava below.

Where to stay: In a rain forest at the Papillote Wilderness Retreat, where you can take a dip in a hot spring mineral pool and admire vibrant, flowered terraces filled with exotic birds and butterflies.

Don't leave without: Diving into a submerged volcanic crater where rare fish and coral reef surround you.

Don't miss: Mixing it up at the Amateur Bartenders' Soca Rum Night at Cellars Bar.

Where it is: Dominica is wedged between the two French islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique.

How to get here: American Eagle flies into Melville Hall Airport every afternoon from San Juan---during peak seasons twice a day.

Just Back From LAS VEGAS

Sarah Sper, Associate Editor, Fodor's

With just 48 hours in Sin City, Sarah crammed as much Vegas in as she could: gambling, buffets, poolside lounging, a Cirque show, the Flying Elvi, and a tour of the new Wynn Las Vegas.

What was your favorite part of the trip?
Playing Pai Gow Poker at Hard Rock. I'm really addicted to this game, even though I'm sure I could make more money (or lose it) playing something more risky. And the dealers at Hard Rock are my favorite---a little bit edgy, but super friendly and helpful. I played for about an hour and walked away with $50---now that's what Vegas is all about!

What was your best find?
The lone $5 roulette table at Mandalay Bay on a Saturday night. Most of the big-name casinos, like Hard Rock, The Palms, Bellagio, and The Venetian, have really high minimums on weekends. At Wynn Las Vegas, the minimum blackjack buy-in on busy weekend nights can get up to $100!

What was overrated?
Rehab, the pool party at Hard Rock on Sunday afternoons. If you're staying here, you can skip the line; otherwise, it's a $30 cover and the line doesn't move. Besides that, you have to wait inside (wasting valuable sun time!). After standing in line for an hour, we headed back to Mandalay Bay where we were staying, nabbed a couple of lounge chairs and margaritas, and basked in the sun.

What surprised you?
Wynn Las Vegas. There are little areas all over the hotel where you can escape the hectic feeling of the Strip. I grabbed a coffee at this café called Sugar & Ice and headed out to the patio. It's small---maybe 10 or 15 tables---and flanked by a tall, rocky waterfall that completely obscures the Strip. All you see and hear is water---no honking horns, no ringing slot machines.

What was the biggest flub or mishap?
Not telling the cab driver not to take the airport tunnel when I got in the cab at the airport. Cabs in Vegas charge by distance, and apparently the airport tunnel route to the Strip is the longest (although usually the fastest). Though I'd learned about this illegal practice from one of my Las Vegas writers, I was busy organizing my luggage and didn't notice the route my driver was taking until it was too late.

2nd Photo: Wynn Hotel

Check out other "Just Back From" Features:

Traveling with Your Pet

Health problems and emergencies when traveling with your pet are not much different from problems at home. If anything goes wrong, take your pet to the vet. If you have any questions or concerns about your pet's health, contact a vet. Following are some general tips on things to do before you leave.

Know Your Pet's "Normals"

You should know all your animal's normal vital signs, including temperature, heart rate, respiration rate and the frequency of eating, drinking, urinating, and defecating. Consult your vet to help compile this list.

Any variation in your pet's normal heart rate, pulse, temperature, or urination or defecation may be an indication that something isn't right. Furthermore, you should take your pet to the vet in the case of persistent loose stool, vomit, blood in the stool or vomit, shortness of breath, excessive slobbering, abnormal body posture, loss of appetite, runny nose or eyes, or shaking.

Breeds of animals with pug noses such as Boston terriers, pugs and bulldogs, and Himalayan and Persian cats often have difficulty breathing at high altitudes, and some airlines advise against these animals being transported by air.

Medicine and First-Aid to Have on Hand

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Many public areas and lodgings use poisons to get rid of insects and rodents. These are also poisonous to pets. When you register ask if any poisons are used, and always keep your pet leashed when in public areas.

Pet Packing|Flying High |Hitting the Open Road |Pet-Friendly Lodging|Travel Training

Seven Wondrous Hotels of the World

Where you end up staying while traveling sometimes turns out to be the most adventurous part of a trip. Herewith are a couple of interesting places you might want to rest your head.

Commune Boutique Hotel
These 11 villas, nestled between the mountainous landscape of China's Yanging County, near the Great Wall, were designed by 12 of China's most important architects. The interior spaces, each with 4 bedrooms and spectacular views, were created by a team of international interior designers. Prices range from $888 to $1,088 a night.

Earth Lodge
If getting back to nature is more your thing, the Earth Lodge at the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, 500 km east of Johannesburg, in South Africa, is the place to go. All suites are underground, and interiors are designed to create an environment similar to the outdoors, with rooms sculpted out of the rock and furniture items made of tree bark and clay.

Icehotel
Chill out at the Icehotel, a hotel made entirely of snow and ice in Jukkasjarvi, Sweden. Temperatures range from 16-25 F (-4 to -9 C), so the ice never melts. Guests stay toasty-warm slumbering in thermal sleeping bags spread over reindeer skins that pad the beds of snow and ice. Hot lingonberry juice and a visit to the hotel sauna are morning musts. Guests can head to the hotel's Absolut Icebar for something "on the rocks" before perusing ice sculptures in the Ice Shop. The frosty fun starts at $397 a night.

Renaissance Toronto Downtown at the Skydome
The phrase seventh-inning stretch takes on a whole new meaning if you're a lucky guest at the hotel housed in the Skydome, the home of the Toronto Blue Jays. Of the hotel's 348 rooms, 70 are field side and have sweeping views of the massive stadium. Guests should beware---a few years ago an unsuspecting couple was caught on the stadium's Sony Jumbotron, the world's largest, indulging in a little private time during a game. Rates start at $215 per night, but can get pretty pricey during the baseball season.

Hotell Hackspett
Guests---well, there's only room for one---can fulfill childhood dreams of living in a tree house at the Hotell Hackspett (Woodpecker Hotel) in Vasteras, Sweden. Located 60 miles from Stockholm, the small loft sits 43 feet up in a 300-year-old oak tree in Vasaparken, the city's central park. Guests climb a ladder to their hideaway, which has a bedroom, kitchen, and a toilet. No one is an island, and that's certainly the case here as tourists are forever gawking at the tree-dwelling guests. Tree bliss can be yours for $94 a night.

Kokopelli's Cave Bed & Breakfast
If you've ever been overcome by the desire to live in a cave, head to Kokopelli's Cave Bed & Breakfast, a luxury hollow carved into the side of a mountain in Farmington, New Mexico. The 1,650-square foot cave comes with hot and cold running water, fully equipped kitchen, plush carpeting, a hot tub, and Southwestern-style furniture. The entrance to the grotto is 280 feet above the La Plata River, affording visitors with majestic views of the Chuska Mountains. Don't bring a lot with you. The cave is 70 feet below the surface, and there's no elevator.

Propeller Island City Lodge
Lastly, one of the strangest places of all is the Propeller Island City Lodge in Berlin.
The hotel offers 30 rooms, each with its own unique design, from mildly unusual to completely wacky. Wanna sleep in a coffin or a padded cell? How about a jailhouse or a psych ward? There's always the Upside Down Room, in which the furniture is suspended from the ceiling. Take your pick, there are plenty to choose from. Gute Nacht.

100 Years of Sin

Although civic-minded types have tried their best over the years to turn Las Vegas into a family destination, 35 million people come here each year to do one thing---gamble. There are roller coasters and kiddy attractions, it's true, supermarkets and libraries, yes, but the real draw in Vegas is seductive Lady Luck.

If you've been waiting for the right time to take a spin on the dance floor with Lady Luck, this is the year to do it as Las Vegas celebrates its 100th birthday throughout 2005. Celebrations have been planned all year long, and the calendar includes parades, mass parties, fireworks, and plenty of cultural activities.

Although the parties have been going fast and furious since January 1, things really get going in May. The granddaddy of the centennial celebration is the Helldorado Days, a revival of the party that began during the Depression and continues today at venues throughout Sin City. Here's the lowdown on everything else you need to know about Sin City's Big 100.

Great Deal to Vegas
Wynn Las Vegas, hotelier Steve Wynn's latest venture, wants to bring you to Sin City between July 4 and August 27, 2005. Fly from New York and spend three-nights at Wynn Las Vegas starting at $539 (double occupancy). Three nights from Miami start at $599, and three nights from Houston are $645. Three nights from Chicago (O'Hare) start at $565. Price includes midweek air, accommodations, ground transfers and hotel taxes. Call 888-271-1584 to book.

Photo Credits: Las Vegas News Bureau

The Ultimate Source for Dirt-Cheap Airfares

To nab the absolute lowest fares available, you might want to check out National Report, a blogspot listing the web's lowest airfare deals. Updated daily, the site can alert you to some incredible savings. Here are sample fares (roundtrip) from the blog's May 11 entry:

Dallas/Toronto $148 (United)
Charlotte/San Diego $243 (United)
Atlanta/Boston $163 (Northwest)
New Orleans/Cincinnati $158 (Northwest)
New York/Kansas City $147 (Delta)
Indianapolis/Ft Lauderdale $118 (Northwest)
Phoenix/Norfolk, VA $138 (Northwest Tue/Wed thru Sep12)
Tampa/Providence $110 (American, Northwest, US Air)

Bargains for Midwestern Beach Lovers

With roundtrip fares to Cancun, Montego Bay, and Cozumel starting at $99.99, Funjet Vacations' pre-summer sale is a bargain if you live in the Midwest. Most travel dates are at the end of May or early June. There is no booking deadline, but at these prices fares are sure to go quickly. Here are sample fares:

Roundtrip to Cancun from:

Kansas City - $99.99
Detroit - $149.99
Cleveland - $149.99
San Antonio - $199.99
Chicago Midway - $249.99

Roundtrip to Montego Bay from:

St. Louis - $99.99
Dallas - $149.99

Roundtrip to Cozumel from:

St. Louis - $99.99
Dallas - $199.99

MuseumWatch: Chicago

Spirit into Matter: The Life and Work of Photographer Edmund Teske, Chicago Art Institute, May 21-July 31, 2005

When innovations in photography made cameras and darkroom equipment available to the masses in the 1920s, photography entered a magical phase of experimentation. Suddenly artists came out of the woodwork bearing weird double-exposure images and otherworldly duotones. Dramatic lighting, color filters, and irregular lenses became de rigueur. The range of possibilities fired the imagination, and in Europe photographers like Alexander Rodchencko, Hans Bellmer, and Laszlo Moholy-Nagy used these and other techniques to launch a European avant garde.
America had its own photo-experimenters in the 1930s, among them Edmund Teske (1911-1996). Largely unheralded in his own time, Teske now has something of a cult following. A good portion of his unusual work is on display in Spirit into Matter, running May 21-July 31 at the Art Institute of Chicago. Featuring more than 130 prints, the show, organized by the J. Paul Getty Museum, focuses largely on Teske's attempts to stretch the limits of the medium. Close to half of the prints in "Spirit into Matter" reveal the photographer's deft manipulation of duotone solarization techniques and composite printing, while others underscore the artist's nervy and up-to-the-minute mastery of abstract composition. Teske was a Chicago native, and many prints in the show serve as a documentary record of the city in the 1930s. Elegant studies of Frank Lloyd Wright's Chicago architecture as well as portraits of Hollywood celebrities from Teske's Los Angeles years are also included.---Chris Culwell

Photo credits: (top) Dinh Q. Lee, "We Promised," 2004. Courtesy of the artist and Shoshana Wayne Gallery, Los Angeles; (bottom) Edmund Teske, "Gertrude Teske, Composite with Olive Hill, Hollywood," 1932 and 1945; printed 1945. J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

16 Stops on a San Diego Shopping Safari

A shopping safari in San Diego means casting a wide net, so give yourself plenty of time to navigate the city's many unique districts. Hillcrest and the Gaslamp Quarter are known for hip stores, and La Jolla's Prospect Street and Girard Avenue for its world-class boutiques. Coronado is famous for gift shops.

Bustling Marketplaces

Ferry Landing Marketplace has 30 boutiques, and a Tuesday afternoon Farmers' Market is a great place to shop while waiting for a ferry. The views of San Diego's downtown skyline from the ferry landing are breathtaking. 1201 1st St., at B Ave. 619/435-8895

San Diego's premier flea market, Kobey's Swap Meet, is an open-air weekend event that seems to expand in size every week, with sellers displaying everything from futons to fresh strawberries. The back section, with secondhand goods, is a bargain-hunter's delight. The swap meet is open Friday-Sunday 7-3; admission is 50 cents on Friday and $1 on weekends; parking is free. San Diego Sports Arena parking lot, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd. 619/226-0650.

Garments and Garb

If you're shopping for something to hit the water in, head to Pilar's Beach Wear to browse through California's largest selection of major-label swimsuits. 3745 Mission Blvd. 858/488-3056.

At Jacques Lelong, located in the 1882 Yuma Building, you'll find unique women's fashions with reasonable prices for the high-end look. From formal dresses to T-shirts and jeans, there are also the shoes, jewelry, scarves and accessories to go with them. 635 5th Ave. 619/234-2583.

The classic Ivy League look is king at the Ascot Shop. This traditional menswear shop offers fashions by Kenneth Gordon and Talbott, but you can also nab Hawaiian shirts. Gene Williams, a La Jolla fixture, offers professional shoeshines in the back of the shop most afternoons. 7750 Girard Ave. 858/454-4222.

Home Interiors

Antique-lovers head to San Diego Hardware, a local favorite since 1892, to find Victorian treasures. 840 5th Ave. 619/232-7123.

Cooks drool over Great News Discount Cookware's kitchen tools, gadgets, mandolines, and chinois. There's a cooking school in the back, an extensive selection of cookbooks, and excellent customer service. 1789 Garnet Ave. 858/270-1582.

The Written Word

Old-fashioned Bay Books is the ideal place to sit, read, and sip coffee on an overcast day by the sea. International travelers will love the large selection of foreign-language magazines and newspapers, and a section in the back is devoted to children's books and games. There are plenty of secluded reading nooks and a sidewalk reading area with coffee bar. 1029 Orange Ave. 619/435-0070.

You can introduce old friends to your kids at Prince & the Pauper Collectible Children's Books. Snaking bookcases in the 4,000-square-foot store reveal 75,000 books as well as little corners perfect for tucking into a book. Most titles are gently used hardbacks, some rare, many collectible, and there are out-of-print, first edition, and signed volumes. 3201 Adams Ave. 619/283-4380.

Specialty Shops

Master Cuban cigarmakers hand-roll all the goods on sale at Cuban Cigar Factory. The walk-in humidor is well-stocked with stogies from Nicaragua, the Dominican Republic, and many other countries. They'll ship domestically and internationally. Retail outlets are at the Horton Plaza and Fashion Valley malls. 551 5th Ave. 619/238-2496.

Products rarely seen in the United States are available at Alexander Perfumes and Cosmetics, which claims to have the largest selection of fragrances in California. Its unusual French cosmetic lines include Lancaster, Darphin, and Orlane. 7914 Girard Ave. 858/454-2292.

You can save yourself a trip to La Serenissima by exploring Lamano Gifts, which carries a wide selection of papier and ceramic Venetian Carnival masks. You'll also find the traditional costumes worn during Venice's Carnival, including black hooded capes. 1298 Prospect St. 858/454-7732.