Venice Dining

053006_GENERICFinal.jpg
Alle Testiere
Chef Bruno Gavagnin’s dishes stand out for lightness and balance: try the gnocchetti con moscardini (little gnocchi with tender baby octopus) or the linguine with coda di rospo (monkfish), or inquire about the carpaccio of the day. $$$-$$$$ Castello

Avogaria
The clean, elegant design of the dining room and garden leaves no doubt that you’re in Venice. The cuisine is Pugliese (from the region in the heel of Italy’s boot). Best bets among the primi include orecchiette with turnip tops, and zucchini involtini (roll-ups) made with fresh stracciatella cheese. $$-$$$ Dorsoduro

Bancogiro
Offerings such as mousse di gamberoni con salsa di avocado (shrimp mousse with an avocado sauce) and Sicilian-style sarde incinte (stuffed, or “pregnant,” sardines) are far from typical fare. When it’s warm, you can sit outdoors and get the full canal view. $ Santa Croce

Osteria da Fiore
A superlative seafood lunch or dinner here might include delicate hors d’oeuvres of moeche, scallops, and tiny octopus, followed by a succulent risotto or tagliolini con scampi e radicchio (with shrimp and radicchio), and a perfectly cooked main course of rombo or tagliata di tonno (tuna steak). $$$$ San Polo

Trattoria Ca d’Oro
A Venetian terrazzo floor, old marble counter, and rustic furnishings lend a pleasant authenticity. Cichetti include tender seppie roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccala mantecato (cod spread). The house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage, radicchio, and béchamel sauce). $ Castello

Wine Bars

Cantina Do Mori
This bacaro par excellence—cramped but warm and cozy under hanging antique copper pots—has been catering to the workers of the Rialto market since the 15th century. In addition to local whites and reds, the well-stocked cellar offers about 600 more refined labels, many available by the glass. $ Rialto

Cantinone gia Schiave
This is one of the best wine cellars in town—the walls are covered floor to ceiling by bottles for purchase. Cichetti here are the most inventive in Venice—try the crostini-style layers of bread, smoked swordfish, and slivers of raw zucchini, or pungent slices of parmeggiano, fig, and toast. $ Zattere

Enoteca la Mascareta
An offspring of the popular casual restaurant Al Mascaron, the Mascareta offers refined cichetti and a selection of cured pork and cheeses, washed down with quality ombre such as Chardonnay Friuliano. The place doesn’t open until 6 p.m., but doesn’t close until past midnight. $ Rialto

Book a Hotel

UP NEXT