Fodor's Expert Review Baur au Lac

Richard Wagner arrived and premiered the first act of his Die Walküre here, accompanied on the piano by his father-in-law, Franz Liszt. Kings and queens, empresses and dukes took turns visiting (and let's not forget Arthur Rubinstein, Marc Chagall, Henry Moore, and Plácido Domingo), making this hotel a truly upper-crust establishment from the time it opened its doors in 1844. This is still one highbrow patrician—it even goes so far as to turn its broad back to the commercial center; its front rooms overlook the lake, the canal, and the manicured lawns of its own private park. Upstairs, the rooms are individually decorated in a mix of styles that range from art deco to English Regency to contemporary. Meals are served in the glassed-in pavilion along the canal.