Fodor's Expert Review Tulum Archaeological Site

Tulum has long been a symbol of independence and resistance. It was a key city in the League of Mayapán (AD 987–1194), a trade center, and a safe harbor for goods from rival Maya factions who considered it neutral territory. At its height, Tulum's wealthy merchants outranked Maya priests in authority and power for the first time. It was also one of the few Maya cities known to have been inhabited when the conquistadores arrived in 1518.

Although the Spaniards never conquered Tulum, they forbade Maya traders to sail the seas. Commerce among the Maya died, and they abandoned the site about 75 years after the conquest of the rest of Mexico. The area was, however, one of the last Maya outposts during their insurrection against Mexican rule in the Caste Wars, which began in 1847. Uprisings continued intermittently until 1935, when the Maya ceded Tulum to the Mexican government.

To avoid long lines, arrive before 11 am. Although you can see the ruins thoroughly in two hours, allow extra time for a swim or a stroll on the beach. Guides are available for hire (MX$800) at the entrance, but some of their information is more entertaining than historically accurate. (Disregard that stuff about virgin sacrifices.) Also, vendors outside the entrance sell Mexican crafts, so bring some pesos for souvenirs.

To the left of the entryway is the first significant structure: the two-story Templo de los Frescos, whose vaulted roof and corbel arch are examples of classic Maya architecture. Faint traces of blue-green frescoes outlined in black on the inner and outer walls depict the three worlds of the Maya and their major deities, as well as decorative stellar and serpentine patterns, rosettes, and ears of maize and other offerings to the gods. One scene portrays the rain god seated on a four-legged animal—probably a reference to the Spaniards on their horses. Unfortunately, the frescoes are difficult to see from the path to which you are restricted.

The largest and most photographed structure, the Castillo (Castle), looms at the edge of a 40-foot limestone cliff just past the Temple of the Frescoes. Atop it, at the end of a broad stairway, is a temple with stucco ornamentation on the outside and traces of fine frescoes inside the two chambers. (The stairway has been roped off, so the top temple is inaccessible.) The front wall of the Castillo has faint carvings of the Descending God and columns depicting the plumed serpent god, Kukulcán, who was introduced to the Maya by the Toltecs.

To the left of the Castillo, facing the sea, is the Templo del Dios Descendente—so called for the carving over the doorway of a winged god plummeting to Earth. In addition, a few small altars sit atop a hill at the north side of the cove, where there's a good view of the Castillo and the sea.