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Fodor’s. For Choice Travel Experiences.
Known for spectacular photography, warm, personal narrative, and detailed color maps, Fodor’s Compass American Guides have a fresh new design and the practical information you need to make the most of your visit to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Written by a longtime local resident, Compass American Guide: Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks provides a true immersion experience for the culture, character and history of America’s most spectacular destinations. Whether you’re traveling on the road or in your armchair, follow your Compass to:
•Discover must-have experiences from scenic drives to hiking and fishing to soaking in thermal springs. Plus, practical information to get you there.
•Learn about local culture from the popular hot spots to the remote backcountry.
•Enjoy personal recommendations from those who know — the best places to stay and eat.
•Have confidence with the easy-to-use practical information you need to get around and experience the best of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks.
What the critics say about Compass American Guides:
“Lushly illustrated and intelligently written.” —National Geographic Traveler
“The most literate and elegant series of guides ever written about North America.” —Jan Morris
Introduction ............ 15
How to Use This Book ............ 18
Best Experiences in Yellowstone and Grand Teton ............ 20
Greater Yellowstone’s History ............ 45
Yellowstone’s First Inhabitants ............ 46
The Mountain Men ............ 47
Further Exploration and the Birth of the National Park ............ 48
Early Administration and Army Years ............ 51
A Modern Park ............ 56
Yellowstone’s Lower Loop ............ 60
Old Faithful Village ............ 66
Lake Village ............ 86
Grant Village and West Thumb ............ 100
Madison and Norris ............ 110
Yellowstone’s Upper Loop ............ 135
Mammoth Hot Springs ............ 140
Tower-Roosevelt ............ 156
Canyon Village ............ 168
Grand Teton National Park ............ 193
The Shaping of Grand Teton ............ 198
Exploring the Park ............ 203
Best Hiking Trails ............ 212
On and in the Water ............ 217
Other Activities ............ 223
Where to Eat ............ 227
Gateway Towns ............ 230
Jackson ............ 232
West Yellowstone ............ 249
Cody ............ 253
Gardiner ............ 260
Where to Stay ............ 263
Lodges, Hotels, and Inns ............ 267
Campgrounds ............ 280
Geology, Flora, and Fauna ............ 289
Geology ............ 294
Flora ............ 297
Fauna ............ 304
Practical Information ............ 316
Best Times to Visit ............ 318
Communications ............ 319
Festivals and Seasonal Events ............ 320
Getting There ............ 324
Getting Into the Parks ............ 326
Getting Around ............ 327
Licenses and Permits ............ 330
Online Resources ............ 333
Park Publications and Other Visitor Info ............ 336
Safety ............ 337
Index ............ 342
Acknowledgments ............ 353
From the Publisher ............ 354
About the Author and Photographer ............ 356
Spotlights
Geothermal Features ............ 119
Winter in Yellowstone ............ 177
Sidebars
The Flight of the Nez Percé ............ 50
The Long Road to Grand Teton ............ 58
Old Faithful ............ 80
Junior Rangers ............ 82
A Bad Dad Tale ............ 94
Old Yeller Buses ............ 99
Cascade Corner ............ 100
People in the Parks: "Digger" Jerry George, Writer ............ 107
Yellowstone’s Painter ............ 153
Survivor Yellowstone ............ 154
Don’t Tell Annapolis ............ 156
Teddy in Yellowstone ............ 160
A Smitten Trapper ............ 165
Backcountry 101 ............ 167
People in the Parks: Linda Young, Ranger ............ 172
Rockefeller Parkway ............ 212
People in the Parks: "Black George" Simmons, Volunteer Ranger ............ 216
Not Your Average Park ............ 221
Teton Science Schools ............ 222
America’s Alps ............ 226
Bull Market ............ 237
People in the Parks ............ Shane Moore, Wildlife Filmmaker ............ 242
The Hebgen Lake Earthquake ............ 251
Buffalo Bill Wrangling ............ 259
The Father of Parkitechture ............ 269
Mission Accomplished? ............ 273
Leave No Trace ............ 336
Recommended Books and Films ............ 341
Maps and Charts
Panorama View of Yellowstone and Jackson Hole,
Looking South ............ 2—3
Orientation to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks ............ 19
Yellowstone National Park: Lower Loop ............ 66—67
Around Old Faithful ............ 70
Around Yellowstone Lake ............ 87
Madison and Norris ............ 111
Yellowstone National Park: Upper Loop ............ 142—143
Mammoth Hot Springs ............ 152
Tower—Roosevelt ............ 158
Canyon Village ............ 169
Grand Teton National Park and Jackson Hole ............ 205
Downtown Jackson ............ 236
West Yellowstone ............ 249
Downtown Cody ............ 253
Grand Teton National Park Campgrounds at a Glance ............ 285
Yellowstone National Park Campgrounds at a Glance ............ 286—287