Trip IdeasFodor's India, 6th Edition
Free shipping with any guidebook purchase
About This Book
Fodor’s. For Choice Travel Experiences.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. While you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in India!
•Updated frequently, Fodor’s India provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guide book.
•Fodor’s India features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including our top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in India.
•Experience India like a local! Fodor’s India includes choices for every traveler, from exploring temples and shrines and teeming bazaars to relaxing on a Goan beach, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. While you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in India!
•Updated frequently, Fodor’s India provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guide book.
•Fodor’s India features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including our top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in India.
•Experience India like a local! Fodor’s India includes choices for every traveler, from exploring temples and shrines and teeming bazaars to relaxing on a Goan beach, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Table of Contents
About This Book ............ 7
Chapter 1: Experience India ............ 9
What’s New ............ 10
What’s Where ............ 12
India Today ............ 16
Quintessential India ............ 18
If You Like ............ 20
Great Itineraries ............ 22
History You Can See ............ 28
India’s Top Experiences ............ 30
Chapter 2: Delhi ............ 31
Welcome to Delhi ............ 32
Delhi Planner ............ 34
Exploring Delhi ............ 37
Where to Eat ............ 57
Where to Stay ............ 65
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 70
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 73
Shopping ............ 74
Delhi Essentials ............ 82
Chapter 3: North Central India ............ 87
Welcome to North Central India ............ 88
North Central India Planner ............ 90
Agra & Environs ............ 94
Khajuraho ............ 115
Bhopal & Environs ............ 125
Varanasi, Lucknow & Bodhgaya ............ 130
North Central India Essentials ............ 151
Chapter 4: Rajasthan & Gujarat ............ 157
Welcome to Rajasthan & Gujarat ............ 158
Rajasthan & Gujarat Planner ............ 160
Jaipur & Environs ............ 165
Shekhawati ............ 189
Jodhpur & Environs ............ 194
Udaipur & Environs ............ 207
Jaisalmer & Environs ............ 224
Gujarat ............ 230
Ahmedabad & Environs ............ 231
Kathiawar Peninsula ............ 245
Rajasthan & Gujarat Essentials ............ 258
Chapter 5: Uttarakhand ............ 265
Welcome to Uttarakhand ............ 266
Uttarakhand Planner ............ 268
Garhwal Region ............ 271
Kumaon Region ............ 276
Uttarakhand Essentials ............ 284
Chapter 6: Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh ............ 287
Welcome to Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh ............ 288
Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh Planner ............ 290
Amritsar ............ 293
Chandigarh ............ 299
Himachal Pradesh ............ 301
Ladakh ............ 323
Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh Essentials ............ 335
Chapter 7: Mumbai & Maharashtra ............ 341
Welcome to Mumbai & Maharashtra ............ 342
Mumbai & Maharashtra Planner ............ 344
Mumbai ............ 347
Mumbai Essentials ............ 406
Pune ............ 412
Pune Essentials ............ 426
Aurangabad, Ajanta Caves & Ellora Caves ............ 428
Ajanta Caves ............ 434
Ellora Caves ............ 437
Aurangabad, Ajanta Caves & Ellora Caves Essentials ............ 440
Chapter 8: Goa ............ 443
Welcome to Goa ............ 444
Goa Planner ............ 446
North Goa ............ 450
Panaji & Central Goa ............ 459
South Goa ............ 466
Goa Essentials ............ 474
Chapter 9: Karnataka & Hyderabad ............ 477
Welcome to Karnataka & Hyderabad ............ 478
Karnataka & Hyderabad Planner ............ 480
Bangalore ............ 484
Mysore ............ 503
Coorg ............ 515
Mangalore & Karwar ............ 517
Belur & Halebid ............ 522
Hampi ............ 525
Hyderabad ............ 529
Karnataka & Hyderabad Essentials ............ 538
Chapter 10: Kerala ............ 543
Welcome to Kerala ............ 544
Kerala Planner ............ 546
Kochi ............ 549
Central Kerala ............ 563
Southern Kerala ............ 572
Northern Kerala ............ 578
Kerala Essentials ............ 582
Chapter 11: Tamil Nadu ............ 585
Welcome to Tamil Nadu ............ 586
Tamil Nadu Planner ............ 588
Chennai ............ 590
Mahabalipuram, Kanchipuram & Pondicherry ............ 610
Tiruchirappalli, Thanjavur & Madurai ............ 622
Tamil Nadu Essentials ............ 631
Chapter 12: Orissa ............ 635
Welcome to Orissa ............ 636
Orissa Planner ............ 638
Bhubaneswar & Environs ............ 641
Orissa Essentials ............ 662
Chapter 13: Kolkata (Calcutta) ............ 667
Welcome to Kolkata (Calcutta) ............ 668
Kolkata (Calcutta) Planner ............ 670
Exploring Kolkata ............ 673
Where to Eat ............ 686
Where to Stay ............ 688
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 691
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 692
Shopping ............ 693
Side Trips ............ 694
Kolkata Essentials ............ 696
Chapter 14: Darjeeling & Sikkim ............ 699
Welcome to Darjeeling & Sikkim ............ 700
Darjeeling & Sikkim Planner ............ 702
Darjeeling ............ 705
Sikkim ............ 715
Darjeeling & Sikkim Essentials ............ 722
India Essentials ............ 727
Getting Started ............ 728
Booking Your Trip ............ 734
Transportation ............ 741
On The Ground ............ 749
Index ............ 772
About Our Writers ............ 784
Maps
Exploring Old Delhi ............ 40
Exploring New Delhi ............ 46—47
Where to Eat & Stay in Delhi ............ 58—59
Agra ............ 96
Fatehpur Sikri ............ 107
Khajuraho ............ 118
Varanasi ............ 132
Jaipur ............ 166
Jodhpur ............ 195
Udaipur ............ 209
Jaisalmer ............ 225
Gujarat ............ 232
Leh ............ 326
Exploring Mumbai ............ 352—353
Mumbai Dining & Lodging ............ 366—367
Excursions from Mumbai ............ 414
Ajanta Caves ............ 434
Ellora Caves ............ 438
Old Goa ............ 464
Bangalore ............ 486
Mysore ............ 506
Hampi ............ 527
Hyderabad ............ 533
Kochi ............ 554
Chennai ............ 594
Mahabalipuram ............ 611
Kolkata ............ 676—677
Close Ups
Classic Chaats ............ 76
Dressing the Part ............ 79
“’Wonder’ Wallows in Filth” ............ 95
The Economics of Burning ............ 135
Festivals in Rajasthan and Gujarat ............ 163
Palace on Wheels ............ 172
Rajasthani Paintings ............ 218
An Intro to the Famous Vegetarian Thali ............ 237
Gujarat’s Hotels and Restaurants ............ 241
The Maldharis & the Siddis ............ 248
Eye-Popping Drive: Shimla—Manali ............ 309
Everyday Holiness ............ 317
Ladakh Shopping ............ 324
The Ladakh Kingdom’s Rise and Fall ............ 328
Pangong Lake ............ 330
Padam ............ 334
Bombay’s Lunchmen ............ 354
The Deccan Odyssey ............ 355
Dawn at the Docks in Colaba ............ 357
Indian Jews & Their Synagogues ............ 358
Bombay Ice Cream ............ 361
The Great Irani Café ............ 363
Mumbai’s Greatest Seafood Hits ............ 376
Song & Dance, Bollywood Style ............ 390
After-Hours Traditional Dance Bars ............ 394
Custom Tailors & Fine Fabrics ............ 401
Street Food Favorites ............ 404
Two Top Mumbai Getaways ............ 407
The Flea Market at Anjuna ............ 453
Inner Peace ............ 456
Take Home the Taste of Goa ............ 463
The Rural Theatre of Yakshagana ............ 519
A Walk in the Old City ............ 532
Ayurveda, Balance & Bliss ............ 550
Early-Morning Art ............ 598
Penance Piercing ............ 629
Tribal Village Tours ............ 646
Crafty Orissa ............ 653
Rickshaw Pullers ............ 674
Calcutta to Kolkata ............ 678
Calcutta’s Anglo-Indians ............ 682
Chapter 1: Experience India ............ 9
What’s New ............ 10
What’s Where ............ 12
India Today ............ 16
Quintessential India ............ 18
If You Like ............ 20
Great Itineraries ............ 22
History You Can See ............ 28
India’s Top Experiences ............ 30
Chapter 2: Delhi ............ 31
Welcome to Delhi ............ 32
Delhi Planner ............ 34
Exploring Delhi ............ 37
Where to Eat ............ 57
Where to Stay ............ 65
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 70
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 73
Shopping ............ 74
Delhi Essentials ............ 82
Chapter 3: North Central India ............ 87
Welcome to North Central India ............ 88
North Central India Planner ............ 90
Agra & Environs ............ 94
Khajuraho ............ 115
Bhopal & Environs ............ 125
Varanasi, Lucknow & Bodhgaya ............ 130
North Central India Essentials ............ 151
Chapter 4: Rajasthan & Gujarat ............ 157
Welcome to Rajasthan & Gujarat ............ 158
Rajasthan & Gujarat Planner ............ 160
Jaipur & Environs ............ 165
Shekhawati ............ 189
Jodhpur & Environs ............ 194
Udaipur & Environs ............ 207
Jaisalmer & Environs ............ 224
Gujarat ............ 230
Ahmedabad & Environs ............ 231
Kathiawar Peninsula ............ 245
Rajasthan & Gujarat Essentials ............ 258
Chapter 5: Uttarakhand ............ 265
Welcome to Uttarakhand ............ 266
Uttarakhand Planner ............ 268
Garhwal Region ............ 271
Kumaon Region ............ 276
Uttarakhand Essentials ............ 284
Chapter 6: Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh ............ 287
Welcome to Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh ............ 288
Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh Planner ............ 290
Amritsar ............ 293
Chandigarh ............ 299
Himachal Pradesh ............ 301
Ladakh ............ 323
Himachal Pradesh & Ladakh Essentials ............ 335
Chapter 7: Mumbai & Maharashtra ............ 341
Welcome to Mumbai & Maharashtra ............ 342
Mumbai & Maharashtra Planner ............ 344
Mumbai ............ 347
Mumbai Essentials ............ 406
Pune ............ 412
Pune Essentials ............ 426
Aurangabad, Ajanta Caves & Ellora Caves ............ 428
Ajanta Caves ............ 434
Ellora Caves ............ 437
Aurangabad, Ajanta Caves & Ellora Caves Essentials ............ 440
Chapter 8: Goa ............ 443
Welcome to Goa ............ 444
Goa Planner ............ 446
North Goa ............ 450
Panaji & Central Goa ............ 459
South Goa ............ 466
Goa Essentials ............ 474
Chapter 9: Karnataka & Hyderabad ............ 477
Welcome to Karnataka & Hyderabad ............ 478
Karnataka & Hyderabad Planner ............ 480
Bangalore ............ 484
Mysore ............ 503
Coorg ............ 515
Mangalore & Karwar ............ 517
Belur & Halebid ............ 522
Hampi ............ 525
Hyderabad ............ 529
Karnataka & Hyderabad Essentials ............ 538
Chapter 10: Kerala ............ 543
Welcome to Kerala ............ 544
Kerala Planner ............ 546
Kochi ............ 549
Central Kerala ............ 563
Southern Kerala ............ 572
Northern Kerala ............ 578
Kerala Essentials ............ 582
Chapter 11: Tamil Nadu ............ 585
Welcome to Tamil Nadu ............ 586
Tamil Nadu Planner ............ 588
Chennai ............ 590
Mahabalipuram, Kanchipuram & Pondicherry ............ 610
Tiruchirappalli, Thanjavur & Madurai ............ 622
Tamil Nadu Essentials ............ 631
Chapter 12: Orissa ............ 635
Welcome to Orissa ............ 636
Orissa Planner ............ 638
Bhubaneswar & Environs ............ 641
Orissa Essentials ............ 662
Chapter 13: Kolkata (Calcutta) ............ 667
Welcome to Kolkata (Calcutta) ............ 668
Kolkata (Calcutta) Planner ............ 670
Exploring Kolkata ............ 673
Where to Eat ............ 686
Where to Stay ............ 688
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 691
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 692
Shopping ............ 693
Side Trips ............ 694
Kolkata Essentials ............ 696
Chapter 14: Darjeeling & Sikkim ............ 699
Welcome to Darjeeling & Sikkim ............ 700
Darjeeling & Sikkim Planner ............ 702
Darjeeling ............ 705
Sikkim ............ 715
Darjeeling & Sikkim Essentials ............ 722
India Essentials ............ 727
Getting Started ............ 728
Booking Your Trip ............ 734
Transportation ............ 741
On The Ground ............ 749
Index ............ 772
About Our Writers ............ 784
Maps
Exploring Old Delhi ............ 40
Exploring New Delhi ............ 46—47
Where to Eat & Stay in Delhi ............ 58—59
Agra ............ 96
Fatehpur Sikri ............ 107
Khajuraho ............ 118
Varanasi ............ 132
Jaipur ............ 166
Jodhpur ............ 195
Udaipur ............ 209
Jaisalmer ............ 225
Gujarat ............ 232
Leh ............ 326
Exploring Mumbai ............ 352—353
Mumbai Dining & Lodging ............ 366—367
Excursions from Mumbai ............ 414
Ajanta Caves ............ 434
Ellora Caves ............ 438
Old Goa ............ 464
Bangalore ............ 486
Mysore ............ 506
Hampi ............ 527
Hyderabad ............ 533
Kochi ............ 554
Chennai ............ 594
Mahabalipuram ............ 611
Kolkata ............ 676—677
Close Ups
Classic Chaats ............ 76
Dressing the Part ............ 79
“’Wonder’ Wallows in Filth” ............ 95
The Economics of Burning ............ 135
Festivals in Rajasthan and Gujarat ............ 163
Palace on Wheels ............ 172
Rajasthani Paintings ............ 218
An Intro to the Famous Vegetarian Thali ............ 237
Gujarat’s Hotels and Restaurants ............ 241
The Maldharis & the Siddis ............ 248
Eye-Popping Drive: Shimla—Manali ............ 309
Everyday Holiness ............ 317
Ladakh Shopping ............ 324
The Ladakh Kingdom’s Rise and Fall ............ 328
Pangong Lake ............ 330
Padam ............ 334
Bombay’s Lunchmen ............ 354
The Deccan Odyssey ............ 355
Dawn at the Docks in Colaba ............ 357
Indian Jews & Their Synagogues ............ 358
Bombay Ice Cream ............ 361
The Great Irani Café ............ 363
Mumbai’s Greatest Seafood Hits ............ 376
Song & Dance, Bollywood Style ............ 390
After-Hours Traditional Dance Bars ............ 394
Custom Tailors & Fine Fabrics ............ 401
Street Food Favorites ............ 404
Two Top Mumbai Getaways ............ 407
The Flea Market at Anjuna ............ 453
Inner Peace ............ 456
Take Home the Taste of Goa ............ 463
The Rural Theatre of Yakshagana ............ 519
A Walk in the Old City ............ 532
Ayurveda, Balance & Bliss ............ 550
Early-Morning Art ............ 598
Penance Piercing ............ 629
Tribal Village Tours ............ 646
Crafty Orissa ............ 653
Rickshaw Pullers ............ 674
Calcutta to Kolkata ............ 678
Calcutta’s Anglo-Indians ............ 682
Check hotel rates and airfares around the world