Trip IdeasFodor's Eastern & Central Europe, 21st Edition
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About This Book
Fodor’s. For Choice Travel Experiences.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. While you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in Eastern and Central Europe!
•Updated frequently, Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guide book.
•Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including out top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in Eastern and Central Europe.
•Experience Eastern and Central Europe like a local! Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe includes choices for every traveler from hiking in the Tatras of Slovakia to shopping for local crafts in Romania to truffle-hunting in Croatia, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. While you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in Eastern and Central Europe!
•Updated frequently, Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guide book.
•Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including out top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in Eastern and Central Europe.
•Experience Eastern and Central Europe like a local! Fodor’s Eastern & Central Europe includes choices for every traveler from hiking in the Tatras of Slovakia to shopping for local crafts in Romania to truffle-hunting in Croatia, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Table of Contents
About this Book ............ 7
What’s Where ............ 10
When to Go ............ 13
Simple Pleasures ............ 14
If You Like ............ 16
Chapter 1: Austria ............ 19
Vienna ............ 23
Baden ............ 49
The Lower Danube Valley ............ 50
Austria Essentials ............ 58
Chapter 2: Bosnia & Herzegovina ............ 65
Sarajevo ............ 68
Jahorina & Bjelašnica ............ 80
Mostar ............ 81
Meddugorje ............ 82
Bosnia & Herzegovina Essentials ............ 83
Chapter 3: Bulgaria ............ 88
Sofia ............ 93
Side Trips from Sofia ............ 108
The Black Sea Coast ............ 109
Inland Bulgaria ............ 122
Bulgaria Essentials ............ 136
Chapter 4: Croatia ............ 144
Zagreb ............ 150
Side Trips from Zagreb ............ 167
Istria ............ 174
Kvarner ............ 184
Split & Central Dalmatia ............ 191
Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia ............ 208
Croatia Essentials ............ 220
Chapter 5: The Czech Republic ............ 225
Prague ............ 232
Southern Bohemia ............ 290
Western Bohemia ............ 303
Northern Bohemia ............ 314
Southern Moravia ............ 319
Telc ............ 320
Mikulov ............ 322
Valtice ............ 324
Olomouc ............ 333
Czech Republic Essentials ............ 337
Chapter 6: Germany ............ 344
Berlin ............ 348
Leipzig ............ 374
Dresden ............ 379
Germany Essentials ............ 386
Chapter 7: Hungary ............ 392
Budapest ............ 398
The Danube Bend ............ 445
Lake Balaton ............ 453
Transdanubia ............ 460
Eastern Hungary ............ 468
Hungary Essentials ............ 483
Chapter 8: Montenegro ............ 492
Kotor ............ 496
Perast ............ 504
Budva ............ 506
Sveti Stefan ............ 512
Kolašin & Biogradska Gora National Park ............ 513
Montenegro Essentials ............ 515
Chapter 9: Poland ............ 518
Warsaw ............ 528
Kraków ............ 555
Malapolska & the Tatras ............ 576
The Baltic Coast & Pomerania ............ 587
Silesia ............ 600
Poznañ & Wielkopolska ............ 609
Mazury & Eastern Poland ............ 618
Poland Essentials ............ 630
Chapter 10: Romania ............ 636
Bucharest ............ 642
The Danube Delta & the Black Sea Coast ............ 657
Bucovina ............ 663
Transylvania ............ 667
Romania Essentials ............ 681
Chapter 11: Slovakia ............ 687
Bratislava ............ 692
Central Slovakia ............ 705
The High Tatras ............ 709
Eastern Slovakia ............ 715
Slovakia Essentials ............ 723
Chapter 12: Slovenia ............ 729
Ljubljana ............ 734
Maribor, Ptuj & Haloze Hills ............ 749
The Alps & the Soca Valley ............ 753
The Karst & Adriatic Coast ............ 764
Slovenia Essentials ............ 771
Eastern and Central Europe Essentials ............ 777
Getting Started ............ 778
Booking Your Trip ............ 782
Transportation ............ 790
On The Ground ............ 794
Bulgarian Vocabulary ............ 800
Croatian Vocabulary ............ 803
Czech Vocabulary ............ 806
German Vocabulary ............ 810
Hungarian Vocabulary ............ 819
Polish Vocabulary ............ 822
Romanian Vocabulary ............ 825
Slovak Vocabulary ............ 828
Slovenian Vocabulary ............ 831
INDEX ............ 834
ABOUT OUR AUTHORS ............ 848
Maps
Eastern and Central Europe ............ 8—9
Austria ............ 21
Vienna ............ 26—27
Lower Danube Valley ............ 52
Bosnia & Hercegovina ............ 69
Sarajevo ............ 73
Excursions from Sarajevo ............ 81
Bulgaria ............ 91
Sofia ............ 96
Black Sea Coast ............ 110
Inland Bulgaria ............ 123
Croatia ............ 148
Zagreb ............ 154—155
Excursions from Zagreb ............ 169
Istria ............ 175
Kvarner ............ 185
Split ............ 194
Central Dalmatia ............ 201
Dubrovnik ............ 210
Czech Republic ............ 227
Exploring Central Prague ............ 236—237
Prague Castle ............ 253
Where to Stay & Eat in Prague ............ 266—267
Southern Bohemia ............ 291
Western Bohemia ............ 303
Northern Bohemia ............ 315
Moravia ............ 320
Eastern Germany ............ 347
Berlin ............ 352—353
Saxony ............ 375
Dresden ............ 380
Hungary ............ 395
Exploring Castle Hill (Várhegy) ............ 401
Exploring Budapest ............ 406—407
Where to Eat & Stay in Budapest ............ 426—427
Szentendre ............ 446
Eastern Hungary ............ 470
Montenegro ............ 495
Kotor Old Town ............ 500
Budva Old Town ............ 507
Poland ............ 520—521
Warsaw ............ 524—525
Warsaw’s Nowe Miasto & Stare Miasto ............ 530
Krakow Stare Miasto ............ 557
Kazimierz ............ 563
Malapolska ............ 577
Baltic Coast ............ 588
Silesia ............ 601
Wielkopolska ............ 610
Mazury & Eastern Poland ............ 619
Romania ............ 640
Bucharest ............ 646—647
Bucovina ............ 663
Slovakia ............ 690
Bratislava ............ 695
The High Tatras ............ 709
Slovenia ............ 735
Ljubljana ............ 739
The Krka Valley ............ 749
Maribor, Ptuj, & the Haloze Hills ............ 750
Triglav National Park & the Soca Valley ............ 755
Karst Region & the Adriatic Coast ............ 765
Close Ups
Walking Tours ............ 28
Heurigen ............ 36
Danube River Cruises ............ 55
Grape Expectations ............ 57
History You Can See ............ 75
Dubrovnik under Siege ............ 213
If You Like ............ 229
Mozart in Prague ............ 242
Václav Havel ............ 250
Paprika Is the Spice of Life ............ 428
Other Hotels to Consider ............ 437
A Legendary Little Tree ............ 476
Živjeli!–Cheers! ............ 498
40 Million Bricks ............ 536
The Bagel Returns Home ............ 565
What’s All This About Dracula? ............ 668
Saxons? In Romania? ............ 675
Small Carpathian Wine Route ............ 696
Master Pavol: Wood Carver ............ 717
Slovenian Cuisine ............ 733
There’s More to Žlikrofi Than Meets the Eye ............ 762
What’s Where ............ 10
When to Go ............ 13
Simple Pleasures ............ 14
If You Like ............ 16
Chapter 1: Austria ............ 19
Vienna ............ 23
Baden ............ 49
The Lower Danube Valley ............ 50
Austria Essentials ............ 58
Chapter 2: Bosnia & Herzegovina ............ 65
Sarajevo ............ 68
Jahorina & Bjelašnica ............ 80
Mostar ............ 81
Meddugorje ............ 82
Bosnia & Herzegovina Essentials ............ 83
Chapter 3: Bulgaria ............ 88
Sofia ............ 93
Side Trips from Sofia ............ 108
The Black Sea Coast ............ 109
Inland Bulgaria ............ 122
Bulgaria Essentials ............ 136
Chapter 4: Croatia ............ 144
Zagreb ............ 150
Side Trips from Zagreb ............ 167
Istria ............ 174
Kvarner ............ 184
Split & Central Dalmatia ............ 191
Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia ............ 208
Croatia Essentials ............ 220
Chapter 5: The Czech Republic ............ 225
Prague ............ 232
Southern Bohemia ............ 290
Western Bohemia ............ 303
Northern Bohemia ............ 314
Southern Moravia ............ 319
Telc ............ 320
Mikulov ............ 322
Valtice ............ 324
Olomouc ............ 333
Czech Republic Essentials ............ 337
Chapter 6: Germany ............ 344
Berlin ............ 348
Leipzig ............ 374
Dresden ............ 379
Germany Essentials ............ 386
Chapter 7: Hungary ............ 392
Budapest ............ 398
The Danube Bend ............ 445
Lake Balaton ............ 453
Transdanubia ............ 460
Eastern Hungary ............ 468
Hungary Essentials ............ 483
Chapter 8: Montenegro ............ 492
Kotor ............ 496
Perast ............ 504
Budva ............ 506
Sveti Stefan ............ 512
Kolašin & Biogradska Gora National Park ............ 513
Montenegro Essentials ............ 515
Chapter 9: Poland ............ 518
Warsaw ............ 528
Kraków ............ 555
Malapolska & the Tatras ............ 576
The Baltic Coast & Pomerania ............ 587
Silesia ............ 600
Poznañ & Wielkopolska ............ 609
Mazury & Eastern Poland ............ 618
Poland Essentials ............ 630
Chapter 10: Romania ............ 636
Bucharest ............ 642
The Danube Delta & the Black Sea Coast ............ 657
Bucovina ............ 663
Transylvania ............ 667
Romania Essentials ............ 681
Chapter 11: Slovakia ............ 687
Bratislava ............ 692
Central Slovakia ............ 705
The High Tatras ............ 709
Eastern Slovakia ............ 715
Slovakia Essentials ............ 723
Chapter 12: Slovenia ............ 729
Ljubljana ............ 734
Maribor, Ptuj & Haloze Hills ............ 749
The Alps & the Soca Valley ............ 753
The Karst & Adriatic Coast ............ 764
Slovenia Essentials ............ 771
Eastern and Central Europe Essentials ............ 777
Getting Started ............ 778
Booking Your Trip ............ 782
Transportation ............ 790
On The Ground ............ 794
Bulgarian Vocabulary ............ 800
Croatian Vocabulary ............ 803
Czech Vocabulary ............ 806
German Vocabulary ............ 810
Hungarian Vocabulary ............ 819
Polish Vocabulary ............ 822
Romanian Vocabulary ............ 825
Slovak Vocabulary ............ 828
Slovenian Vocabulary ............ 831
INDEX ............ 834
ABOUT OUR AUTHORS ............ 848
Maps
Eastern and Central Europe ............ 8—9
Austria ............ 21
Vienna ............ 26—27
Lower Danube Valley ............ 52
Bosnia & Hercegovina ............ 69
Sarajevo ............ 73
Excursions from Sarajevo ............ 81
Bulgaria ............ 91
Sofia ............ 96
Black Sea Coast ............ 110
Inland Bulgaria ............ 123
Croatia ............ 148
Zagreb ............ 154—155
Excursions from Zagreb ............ 169
Istria ............ 175
Kvarner ............ 185
Split ............ 194
Central Dalmatia ............ 201
Dubrovnik ............ 210
Czech Republic ............ 227
Exploring Central Prague ............ 236—237
Prague Castle ............ 253
Where to Stay & Eat in Prague ............ 266—267
Southern Bohemia ............ 291
Western Bohemia ............ 303
Northern Bohemia ............ 315
Moravia ............ 320
Eastern Germany ............ 347
Berlin ............ 352—353
Saxony ............ 375
Dresden ............ 380
Hungary ............ 395
Exploring Castle Hill (Várhegy) ............ 401
Exploring Budapest ............ 406—407
Where to Eat & Stay in Budapest ............ 426—427
Szentendre ............ 446
Eastern Hungary ............ 470
Montenegro ............ 495
Kotor Old Town ............ 500
Budva Old Town ............ 507
Poland ............ 520—521
Warsaw ............ 524—525
Warsaw’s Nowe Miasto & Stare Miasto ............ 530
Krakow Stare Miasto ............ 557
Kazimierz ............ 563
Malapolska ............ 577
Baltic Coast ............ 588
Silesia ............ 601
Wielkopolska ............ 610
Mazury & Eastern Poland ............ 619
Romania ............ 640
Bucharest ............ 646—647
Bucovina ............ 663
Slovakia ............ 690
Bratislava ............ 695
The High Tatras ............ 709
Slovenia ............ 735
Ljubljana ............ 739
The Krka Valley ............ 749
Maribor, Ptuj, & the Haloze Hills ............ 750
Triglav National Park & the Soca Valley ............ 755
Karst Region & the Adriatic Coast ............ 765
Close Ups
Walking Tours ............ 28
Heurigen ............ 36
Danube River Cruises ............ 55
Grape Expectations ............ 57
History You Can See ............ 75
Dubrovnik under Siege ............ 213
If You Like ............ 229
Mozart in Prague ............ 242
Václav Havel ............ 250
Paprika Is the Spice of Life ............ 428
Other Hotels to Consider ............ 437
A Legendary Little Tree ............ 476
Živjeli!–Cheers! ............ 498
40 Million Bricks ............ 536
The Bagel Returns Home ............ 565
What’s All This About Dracula? ............ 668
Saxons? In Romania? ............ 675
Small Carpathian Wine Route ............ 696
Master Pavol: Wood Carver ............ 717
Slovenian Cuisine ............ 733
There’s More to Žlikrofi Than Meets the Eye ............ 762
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