Trip IdeasFodor's Mexico 2010
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About This Book
Fodor’s. For Choice Travel Experiences.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. Although you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in Mexico!
•Updated annually, Fodor’s Mexico provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guidebook.
•Fodor’s Mexico features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including our top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in Mexico.
•Experience Mexico like a local! Fodor’s Mexico includes unique photo-features that impart the country’s vibrant culture, covering the Día de Los Muertos celebrations; Chichén Itzá’s mysterious ball courts; the most indulgent spa treatments in Los Cabos, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
•Fodor’s Mexico features over 60 maps from dining and lodging options in cities and up-close looks inside temple complexes, to regional overviews.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. Although you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in Mexico!
•Updated annually, Fodor’s Mexico provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guidebook.
•Fodor’s Mexico features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including our top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in Mexico.
•Experience Mexico like a local! Fodor’s Mexico includes unique photo-features that impart the country’s vibrant culture, covering the Día de Los Muertos celebrations; Chichén Itzá’s mysterious ball courts; the most indulgent spa treatments in Los Cabos, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
•Fodor’s Mexico features over 60 maps from dining and lodging options in cities and up-close looks inside temple complexes, to regional overviews.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
Table of Contents
Be a Fodor’s Correspondent............3
About This Book............8
Chapter 1: Experience Mexico............9
What’s Where............10
Mexico Planner............14
Top Attractions............16
Top Experiences............17
Quintessential Mexico............18
If You Like............20
Great Itineraries............22
When to Go............25
Mexican Flavors............26
Food and Drink Primer............28
Chapter 2: Mexico City............31
Welcome to Mexico City............32
Mexico City Planner............34
Exploring............38
Where to Eat............71
Where to Stay............86
Nightlife............97
Shopping............105
Sports and the Outdoors............111
Chapter 3: Around Mexico City............113
Around Mexico City............114
Around Mexico City Planner............116
Puebla............117
Cuernavaca and Environs............133
Valle de Bravo............147
Chapter 4: San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland............151
Welcome to The Heartland............152
San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland Planner............154
San Miguel de Allende............156
Querétaro............166
Guanajuato............172
Zacatecas............183
Morelia............190
Pátzcuaro............195
Chapter 5: Guadalajara............207
Welcome to Guadalajara............208
Guadalajara Planner............210
Exploring............213
Where to Eat............225
Where to Stay............232
Nightlife............236
Shopping............238
Sports and the Outdoors............241
Side Trips from Guadalajara............241
Chapter 6: Veracruz............249
Welcome to Veracruz............250
Veracruz Planner............252
Veracruz City............254
Central Veracruz............268
Northern Veracruz............277
Southern Veracruz............286
Chapter 7: Oaxaca............289
Welcome to Oaxaca............290
Oaxaca Planner............292
Oaxaca City............294
Side Trip to the Valles Centrales............311
The Oaxaca Coast............327
Chapter 8: Chiapas and Tabasco............351
Welcome to Chiapas and Tabasco............352
Chiapas and Tabasco Planner............354
San Cristóbal de las Casas............356
Tuxtla Gutiérrez and Chiapa de Corzo............376
The Road to Palenque............381
Palenque and Environs............384
Tabasco............395
Chapter 9: Sonora............401
Welcome to Sonora............402
Sonora Planner............404
Nogales............406
Hermosillo............407
The Sonoran Coast............411
Chapter 10: Barrancas del Cobre............427
Welcome to Barrancas del Cobre............428
Barrancas del Cobre Planner............430
Western Terminus: Los Mochis............432
The Mountain Towns............436
Eastern Terminus: Chihuahua City............447
Chapter 11: Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............451
Welcome to Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............452
Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula Planner............454
Los Cabos and Baja Sur............456
Baja Norte............515
Chapter 12: Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............529
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............530
Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts Planner............532
Mazatlán............534
Puerto Vallarta............549
Manzanillo............585
Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo............595
Chapter 13: Acapulco............613
Welcome to Acapulco............614
Acapulco Planner............616
Exploring............619
Where to Eat............625
Where to Stay............632
Nightlife............637
Shopping............639
Sports and the Outdoors............641
Side Trip to Taxco............643
Chapter 14: Cancún and Isla Mujeres............651
Welcome to Cancún and Isla Mujeres............652
Cancún and Isla Mujeres Planner............654
Cancún............656
Isla Mujeres............683
Chapter 15: Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............699
Welcome to Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............700
Cozumel and the Riviera Maya Planner............702
Cozumel............704
The Riviera Maya............717
Chapter 16: Mérida and Environs............741
Welcome to Mérida and Environs............742
Mérida and Environs Planner............744
Mérida............745
Uxmal and Chitzén Itzá............761
Understanding Mexico............773
Chronology............774
Spanish Vocabulary............782
Travel Smart Mexico............791
Getting Here and Around............792
Essentials............800
index............815
About Our Writers............832
MEXICO IN FOCUS
Mexico City
The Zócalo............42
Frida & Diego............59
Around Mexico City
Teotihuacán............134
San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland
Waking the Dead in Pátzcuaro............200
Guadalajara
Pottery & Ceramics in Tlaquepaque and Tonalá............223
Veracruz
Flight of the Voladores............280
Oaxaca
Oaxaca Valley Crafts Markets............317
The Mixteca Monasteries............322
Chiapas and Tabasco
Palenque............386
Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula
Baja Rejuvenation............478
Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts
SPAAAHH............570
Acapulco
Acapulco’s Cliff Divers............626
Mérida and Environs
Chichén Itzá............764
MAPS
Welcome to Mexico City............32–33
Centro Historico and Alameda Central............39
Bosque de Chapultepec and Zona............52
San Angel and Coyoacan............66
Where to Eat in Centro Histórico and Alameda Central............76
Where to Eat in Zona Rosa............79
Where to Eat in La Condesa, La Roma and Polanco............83
Where to Stay in Mexico City............88
Around Mexico City............114–115
Exploring Puebla............119
Where to Eat and Stay in Puebla............125
Welcome to The Heartland............152–153
San Miguel de Allende............158
Where to Eat and Stay in San Miguel............161
Querétaro............169
Guanajuato............174
Zacatecas............185
Morelia............192
Pátzcuaro............198
Welcome to Guadalajara............208–209
Guadalajara Centro Histórico............214
Tlaquepaque............220
Tonola............222
Where to Stay and Eat in Guadalajara............228–229
Welcome to Veracruz............250–251
Veracruz City............256
Veracruz State............269
Welcome to Oaxaca............290–291
Exploring Oaxaca City............295
Where to Eat and Stay in Oaxaca City............303
Overview Oaxaca Valley............313
Monte Albán Site............315
Oaxaca Coast............329
Welcome to Chiapas and Tabasco............352–353
Exploring San Cristóbal de las Casas............360
Chiapas and Tabasco............374
Welcome to Sonora............402–403
Welcome to Barrancas del Cobre............428–429
Welcome to Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............452–453
Baja California Sur............457
Where to Stay and Eat in Cabo San Lucas............463
Where to Eat and Stay Along the Corridor............473
Where to Eat and Stay in San José del Cabo............488
Exploring La Paz............499
Baja California Norte............517
Exploring Ensenada............520
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............530–531
Mazatlán............536
Puerto Vallarta............553
Manzanillo............589
Ixtapa............597
Zihuatanejo............600
Welcome to Acapulco............614–615
Exploring Costera and Old Acapulco............620
Where to Stay and Eat in Acapulco............630
Taxco............645
Welcome to Cancún and Isla Mujeres............652–653
Where to Eat and Stay in Zona Hotelera............662
Where to Eat and Stay in El Centro............666
Isla Mujeres............684
Welcome to Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............700–701
Cozumel............706
The Riviera Maya............718
Tulum ............735
Welcome to Mérida and Environs............742–743
Mérida............747
Uxmal and Chitzén Itzá............762
About This Book............8
Chapter 1: Experience Mexico............9
What’s Where............10
Mexico Planner............14
Top Attractions............16
Top Experiences............17
Quintessential Mexico............18
If You Like............20
Great Itineraries............22
When to Go............25
Mexican Flavors............26
Food and Drink Primer............28
Chapter 2: Mexico City............31
Welcome to Mexico City............32
Mexico City Planner............34
Exploring............38
Where to Eat............71
Where to Stay............86
Nightlife............97
Shopping............105
Sports and the Outdoors............111
Chapter 3: Around Mexico City............113
Around Mexico City............114
Around Mexico City Planner............116
Puebla............117
Cuernavaca and Environs............133
Valle de Bravo............147
Chapter 4: San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland............151
Welcome to The Heartland............152
San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland Planner............154
San Miguel de Allende............156
Querétaro............166
Guanajuato............172
Zacatecas............183
Morelia............190
Pátzcuaro............195
Chapter 5: Guadalajara............207
Welcome to Guadalajara............208
Guadalajara Planner............210
Exploring............213
Where to Eat............225
Where to Stay............232
Nightlife............236
Shopping............238
Sports and the Outdoors............241
Side Trips from Guadalajara............241
Chapter 6: Veracruz............249
Welcome to Veracruz............250
Veracruz Planner............252
Veracruz City............254
Central Veracruz............268
Northern Veracruz............277
Southern Veracruz............286
Chapter 7: Oaxaca............289
Welcome to Oaxaca............290
Oaxaca Planner............292
Oaxaca City............294
Side Trip to the Valles Centrales............311
The Oaxaca Coast............327
Chapter 8: Chiapas and Tabasco............351
Welcome to Chiapas and Tabasco............352
Chiapas and Tabasco Planner............354
San Cristóbal de las Casas............356
Tuxtla Gutiérrez and Chiapa de Corzo............376
The Road to Palenque............381
Palenque and Environs............384
Tabasco............395
Chapter 9: Sonora............401
Welcome to Sonora............402
Sonora Planner............404
Nogales............406
Hermosillo............407
The Sonoran Coast............411
Chapter 10: Barrancas del Cobre............427
Welcome to Barrancas del Cobre............428
Barrancas del Cobre Planner............430
Western Terminus: Los Mochis............432
The Mountain Towns............436
Eastern Terminus: Chihuahua City............447
Chapter 11: Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............451
Welcome to Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............452
Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula Planner............454
Los Cabos and Baja Sur............456
Baja Norte............515
Chapter 12: Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............529
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............530
Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts Planner............532
Mazatlán............534
Puerto Vallarta............549
Manzanillo............585
Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo............595
Chapter 13: Acapulco............613
Welcome to Acapulco............614
Acapulco Planner............616
Exploring............619
Where to Eat............625
Where to Stay............632
Nightlife............637
Shopping............639
Sports and the Outdoors............641
Side Trip to Taxco............643
Chapter 14: Cancún and Isla Mujeres............651
Welcome to Cancún and Isla Mujeres............652
Cancún and Isla Mujeres Planner............654
Cancún............656
Isla Mujeres............683
Chapter 15: Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............699
Welcome to Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............700
Cozumel and the Riviera Maya Planner............702
Cozumel............704
The Riviera Maya............717
Chapter 16: Mérida and Environs............741
Welcome to Mérida and Environs............742
Mérida and Environs Planner............744
Mérida............745
Uxmal and Chitzén Itzá............761
Understanding Mexico............773
Chronology............774
Spanish Vocabulary............782
Travel Smart Mexico............791
Getting Here and Around............792
Essentials............800
index............815
About Our Writers............832
MEXICO IN FOCUS
Mexico City
The Zócalo............42
Frida & Diego............59
Around Mexico City
Teotihuacán............134
San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland
Waking the Dead in Pátzcuaro............200
Guadalajara
Pottery & Ceramics in Tlaquepaque and Tonalá............223
Veracruz
Flight of the Voladores............280
Oaxaca
Oaxaca Valley Crafts Markets............317
The Mixteca Monasteries............322
Chiapas and Tabasco
Palenque............386
Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula
Baja Rejuvenation............478
Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts
SPAAAHH............570
Acapulco
Acapulco’s Cliff Divers............626
Mérida and Environs
Chichén Itzá............764
MAPS
Welcome to Mexico City............32–33
Centro Historico and Alameda Central............39
Bosque de Chapultepec and Zona............52
San Angel and Coyoacan............66
Where to Eat in Centro Histórico and Alameda Central............76
Where to Eat in Zona Rosa............79
Where to Eat in La Condesa, La Roma and Polanco............83
Where to Stay in Mexico City............88
Around Mexico City............114–115
Exploring Puebla............119
Where to Eat and Stay in Puebla............125
Welcome to The Heartland............152–153
San Miguel de Allende............158
Where to Eat and Stay in San Miguel............161
Querétaro............169
Guanajuato............174
Zacatecas............185
Morelia............192
Pátzcuaro............198
Welcome to Guadalajara............208–209
Guadalajara Centro Histórico............214
Tlaquepaque............220
Tonola............222
Where to Stay and Eat in Guadalajara............228–229
Welcome to Veracruz............250–251
Veracruz City............256
Veracruz State............269
Welcome to Oaxaca............290–291
Exploring Oaxaca City............295
Where to Eat and Stay in Oaxaca City............303
Overview Oaxaca Valley............313
Monte Albán Site............315
Oaxaca Coast............329
Welcome to Chiapas and Tabasco............352–353
Exploring San Cristóbal de las Casas............360
Chiapas and Tabasco............374
Welcome to Sonora............402–403
Welcome to Barrancas del Cobre............428–429
Welcome to Los Cabos and the Baja Peninsula............452–453
Baja California Sur............457
Where to Stay and Eat in Cabo San Lucas............463
Where to Eat and Stay Along the Corridor............473
Where to Eat and Stay in San José del Cabo............488
Exploring La Paz............499
Baja California Norte............517
Exploring Ensenada............520
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta and the Pacific Coast Resorts............530–531
Mazatlán............536
Puerto Vallarta............553
Manzanillo............589
Ixtapa............597
Zihuatanejo............600
Welcome to Acapulco............614–615
Exploring Costera and Old Acapulco............620
Where to Stay and Eat in Acapulco............630
Taxco............645
Welcome to Cancún and Isla Mujeres............652–653
Where to Eat and Stay in Zona Hotelera............662
Where to Eat and Stay in El Centro............666
Isla Mujeres............684
Welcome to Cozumel and the Riviera Maya............700–701
Cozumel............706
The Riviera Maya............718
Tulum ............735
Welcome to Mérida and Environs............742–743
Mérida............747
Uxmal and Chitzén Itzá............762
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