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Fodor’s. For Choice Travel Experiences.
Fodor’s helps you unleash the possibilities of travel by providing the insightful tools you need to experience the trips you want. Although you’re at the helm, Fodor’s offers the assurance of our expertise, the guarantee of selectivity, and the choice details that truly define a destination. It’s like having a friend in Moscow and St. Petersburg!
•Updated frequently, Fodor’s Moscow & St. Petersburg provides the most accurate and up-to-date information available in a guidebook.
•Fodor’s Moscow & St. Petersburg features options for a variety of budgets, interests, and tastes, so you make the choices to plan your trip of a lifetime.
•If it’s not worth your time, it’s not in this book. Fodor’s discriminating ratings, including our top tier Fodor’s Choice designations, ensure that you’ll know about the most interesting and enjoyable places in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
•Experience Moscow and St. Petersburg like a local! Fodor’s Moscow & St. Petersburg includes choices for every traveler, from shopping for caviar and experiencing the beauty of Red Square at night to perusing the art collection of the tsars, and much more!
•Indispensable, customized trip planning tools include “Top Reasons to Go,” “Word of Mouth” advice from other travelers, and tips to help save money, bypass lines, and avoid common travel pitfalls.
Visit Fodors.com for more ideas and information, travel deals, vacation planning tips, reviews and to exchange travel advice with other travelers.
About This Book ............ 5
What’s Where ............ 6
When To Go ............ 9
Quintessential Moscow & St. Petersburg ............ 10
If You Like ............ 12
Great Itineraries ............ 14
On The Calendar ............ 16
Chapter 1: Moscow ............ 19
Exploring Moscow ............ 21
Heart of Russia: The Kremlin & Red Square ............ 25
Kitai Gorod ............ 39
Tverskaya Ulitsa: Moscow’s Fifth Avenue ............ 45
The Old Moscow of Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa 51
The Arbat, Old & New ............ 58
The Kropotkinsky District ............ 63
Zamoskvoreche ............ 68
Southern Outskirts ............ 72
Where to Eat ............ 80
Where to Stay ............ 95
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 109
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 118
Shopping ............ 122
Moscow Excursions ............ 129
Moscow Essentials ............ 134
Chapter 2: Moscow Environs & the Golden Ring ............ 145
Exploring Moscow Environs & the Golden Ring ............ 147
Moscow Environs ............ 148
The Northern Golden Ring ............ 158
The Eastern Golden Ring ............ 165
Moscow Environs & the Golden Ring Essentials ............ 171
Chapter 3: St. Petersburg ............ 174
Exploring St. Petersburg ............ 176
Where to Eat ............ 220
Where to Stay ............ 234
Nightlife & the Arts ............ 245
Sports & the Outdoors ............ 263
Shopping ............ 264
St. Petersburg Essentials ............ 270
Chapter 4: Summer Palaces & Historic Islands ............ 280
Exploring Summer Palaces & Historic Islands ............ 281
The Summer Palaces ............ 283
Kronshtadt & Valaam ............ 302
Summer Palaces & Historic Islands Essentials ............ 306
Understanding Moscow & St. Petersburg ............ 309
Russia at a Glance ............ 310
The Russian Alphabet and Sounds ............ 312
English-Russian Vocabulary ............ 313
Moscow & St. Petersburg Essentials ............ 323
Index ............ 355
About Our Writers ............ 368
Maps
European Russia ............ 8
Exploring Moscow ............ 22—23
The Kremlin & Red Square ............ 27
Kitai Gorod ............ 40
Tverskaya & Bolshaya Nikitskaya ............ 47
Arbat ............ 59
Kropotkinsky District & Zamoskvoreche ............ 64
Where to Eat in Moscow ............ 82—83
Where to Stay in Moscow ............ 98—99
Moscow Environs & the Golden Ring ............ 151
Troitse-Sergieva Lavra ............ 154
St. Petersburg ............ 180—181
Where to Eat in St. Petersburg ............ 222—223
Where to Stay in St. Petersburg ............ 236—237
Summer Palaces & Historic Islands ............ 285
Peterhof (Petrodvorets) ............ 288
Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo) ............ 293