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Mexico, Copper Canyons Caravan tour April 17-24, 2007 (Faina’s report)

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Mexico, Copper Canyons Caravan tour April 17-24, 2007 (Faina’s report)

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Old Apr 28th, 2007, 05:31 PM
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Mexico, Copper Canyons Caravan tour April 17-24, 2007 (Faina’s report)

I flew roundtrip Southwest Oakland-El Paso. Non-eventful flight except the view of the Grand Canyon from above, it’s the return trip that was almost an adventure. There was a tornado in Texas and Mexico, houses destroyed, people killed. When I came to the airport to check in for the return flight, got a red message: the first leg is delayed by 3 hours. Eventually the flight was cancelled. Luckily, I was allowed on another plane, arriving 2 hours later than the initial one.

To make the matters even worse, I couldn’t call my husband to let him know about the delay. Called the phone company, they said our phone is off the hook. Turned out, our answering machine got un-programmed killing all phone connections. Sure, it happened on the day I needed it the most! The younger son lives a couple of blocks away; I left a message on his cell phone. That night he was playing hockey leaving the cell phone in his apartment. Oh, well, we managed.

DAY ONE was the day of introduction. I walked into the room, OMG, is this an Elderhostel group? Out of the 43 of us, only 2 other ladies and myself were under 65. Everybody was nice and pleasant. The tour guide gave us very detailed instructions, and not only that night, every day on the tour, and I really liked and appreciated that.

Stayed at Wyndham Airport in El Paso, right across from the baggage area, an easy walk to the hotel, I had dinner there. The room was just OK, from a former Hilton I’d expect at least the drapes matching the bedspread. All hotels in Mexico were better.

2 restaurants share the entrance: Canarozzo‘s and Magnim‘s. I picked the Italian one, beautiful inside, even glass ceiling, what are they doing in there? Minestrone was Texas style I guess, refried beans with tomato paste and pasta. Where are the vegetables?? But the black bass main dish was great! Later I will learn fish is very popular in Mexico, along with chicken. Spent some time in the hotel’s courtyard watching the birds.

It’s interesting how the houses are built in Mexico (and the Wyndham), like a letter O only square-shaped, with an inner yard surrounded by the building. Windows and doors are covered by metal rods, nice, but still make you think of “banditos”. Most of them are painted bright. I felt being in an architectural paradise, an amateur as I am. And people wear bright clothes, men and women, especially the Tarahumara Indians. And strange enough, in this poor country, very little, if any, graffiti.

DAY TWO we woke up early. Everybody in the group was always on time everywhere. Despite the detailed explanations on how to fill out the border crossing paperwork, some people still had questions and made mistakes. As a group, we didn’t even leave the bus, our guide took care of everything!

We had lunch somewhere on the way to Creel. As I keep kosher, I eat vegetarian or fish only in public places, so I had a supply of snacks like energy bars, so don’t expect names of restaurants and details from me. Besides, all meals were included and prepaid, so can’t tell how much they were.

Now comes the part of the tour I didn’t like. Mennonites are a religious group, similar to the Amish, maybe different religion. Originally from Germany. We rode up and down one street trying to see them. It was like a bad joke. Some kind of a very, very disrespectful safari or a zoo.

The hotel Parador de la Montana in Creel was rustic. And gave that “very antique” feeling. No wood was spared in building of the hotel or in making the furniture. The floors are tiled, if you are sensitive to cold, bring slippers. This was the only hotel without shampoo provided. And no hairdryers which upset some ladies in the group. The electricity and the plugs are the same as in the US, bring anything you may need! The town is small with plenty cafes, bars, shops, pharmacy - all you may want or need.

Oh, and at dinner a margarita was included. I don’t know if this is a local habit, but we had too many drinks on the tour. Some included, some pushed to buy. So there we were, a bunch of elderlies, not used to high altitude, all that doesn’t go well with alcohol! To add to the offense, we were serenaded by 2 locals, it was awful, they didn’t know how to play the guitars, the voices were bad, and each one had his own tune. No, they seemed to be sober.

DAY THREE breakfast at the hotel with a menu - all other days we’ll have a buffet. I picked hotcakes. They reminded me of the “Green Acres”, the episode when an Indian wanted to take the lady with him, the husband offered some hotcakes and said she’ll be making them every day, 3 times a day, so the Indian ran away alone. The hotcakes were not that bad, just reminded me of that show.

Before boarding the Canyon Train 2 guards with machine guns stepped off, one was watching the luggage, the other one the people getting on. Those guards were with us through both train rides. Makes you think of personal safety, huh? Comfortable seats and the right amount of air conditioning made the ride very pleasant. The shaking and tossing was violent. Difficult to stand and move around especially through several cars to the dining room. Some ladies who couldn’t make it got food delivered to their seats. As a “punishment” for being fragile they didn’t get the desserts.

The views are from nice to great most of the way. Better on the left side going from Creel to El Fuerte, and on the right side going back. This is why the guide asked us to stay on the same side of the train both times - so everybody would get a chance to enjoy the same views. We had the first class car reserved for Caravan. Bottled water was in the car for everybody to take, and throughout the trip there was plenty.

The stop at the Divisadero overlook was too short, only 10 or 15 minutes. The train didn’t give a warning whistle, so be careful not to be left behind. The view is very much like the Grand Canyon, only different colors. There is also a small market with food and interesting souvenirs, but the view is so great, I just didn’t care for shopping. I wish an overnight stay could’ve been arranged in that area!

After dinner on the train, we’d arrived to Posada del Hidalgo in El Fuerte. Beautiful, but very hot and humid place, and the mosquitoes there are brutal. Just brutal. Luckily my repellent worked. When the rest of the group asked me why I am not being attacked, I explained: I was born in Russia which was a communist country, and those mosquitoes are not interesting in drinking communist blood. The next day the feet of people in shorts were covered by pink circles with dark red center.

First of all, I went to my room to look around it, and in the restroom there was something by the window. Is it possible, a family stayed here, and the child forgot his toy? I touched it, the “toy” lizard jumped toward the window, I jumped the other way and ran out. Now let me tell you, I have bad legs, limp with a cane. Being scared, I forgot all about the cane, and my running could’ve qualified me if not for Olympics, maybe for a local marathon. The tour guide was in the reception area. He said something in Spanish, and a young man armed with a broom, came to the rescue. Behind him marched a young girl - maybe his girlfriend to guard him from the danger of that tiny cute lizard, or maybe just to enjoy the show. I tagged behind to conclude the procession.

After 3-4 minutes the young man appeared carrying something wrapped in toilet paper. The giggling girl emerged from the bathroom too, carrying the broom. I can’t say I had a good night sleep that night!

DAY FOUR we had a buffet breakfast and from this morning on, all of them were excellent. Eggs, meats, yogurt, pastries, fresh fruit, coffee, juices, cereal. Several courtyards were beautiful, there is a small museum, pool, jacuzzi. We had a short walking tour of El Fuerte which was built in colonial style. As I said I am not an architect, so to me that style looked like needed repairs. My impression: a regular small town with a great hotel. Skipped the river float trip - not my cup of tea. Nobody was bragging coming back, so I think I hadn’t missed much.

In the evening we had a “happy hour” with the drinks 2 for 1 for $5. The man from our group sitting next to me by the pool said, yesterday he bought a regular drink, it was $5, and it was large, twice the size of the drinks today. So, having 2 for 1 was just a gimmick for unsuspecting tourists. Oh, well, the local singing was so much better this time, and watching Zorro dancing with our ladies kinda made up for the money tricked out of us.

There was some folkloric dancing right before the dinner, and another margarita included.

DAY FIVE after another great breakfast back on the train, this time a shorter ride without stops till Barrancas. Another margarita greeted us on the balcony. The view from that balcony is drop dead gorgeous. Just unbelievable. And the hotel was built to have a balcony in each room facing the Urique canyon, over 6,000 feet deep. It’s like standing on the edge of the Great Canyon. Whatever difficulties there were to get to this place - all forgotten. This one glance of the enormous beauty in front of you worth all the time to get there.

If you’re on your own, make sure you stay in Posada Barrancas Mirador at least one night at any cost. At night watch the stars. Wake up early to see the sunrise, take pictures. Take a hike, I can now honestly say I hiked the Copper Canyons. OK, a small part of it, so what! There are different trails - from short and easy to long and difficult. Go to see different trees, birds, and more wonderful views. Tarahumara Indians sell baskets by the hotel entrance and at some train stops.

By the way, there are no TVs in the rooms, but who cares! Watch the views instead. And don’t stay in bed late - the maids come in to strip your bed off sheets and pillow cases even if you are in the room!

DAY SIX after yet another great breakfast and pleasant hiking we left for Chihuahua. Strange, I don’t remember much of that day. Rode through the mountains. Watched a movie about Paquime Pottery on the bus. Got the cell phone connection back, called my husband. Arrived to the huge Palacio del Sol hotel for 2 nights stay.

DAY SEVEN was Monday when all museums are closed. We had the museum of revolution opened just for us. Very interesting museum, and the guide told us about Pancho Villa, not your average life! Across the street 2 people came to demonstrate the pottery making by hand. Yeah, the Murphy law is the same in Mexico as it is in the US! The pot got stuck to the base, and couldn’t be finished. That man said from 20 to 50% of work is lost in making, mostly due to the air bubbles in clay.

The pottery is mostly for collectors, you can’t even use those pots as vases, water will damage them. We had plenty of time to shop in that store, but I didn’t buy any pottery. Even if I find how to use it, it will break on the flight. Happened to me before.

We stopped on a plaza in front of some famous (I think) cathedral where we took a group picture. This time there was no pushing to buy (sure, it’s not alcohol!), only an offer. Oh, I love this picture, such a memory of the trip, to see everybody who I’d traveled with. Why only Caravan came up with this idea, I don’t know. I think this is great.

Some people from our group went to see the fountain. After dark it becomes somewhat like Bellagio fountains in Las Vegas, only I was told, the lights were colored.

DAY EIGHT we left early for the border, it took a while to wait in all lines, the longest wait time was when one person in our group needed to pay the Texas alcohol taxes. In the Caravan booklet it says not to schedule flights before 3 pm - this was no joke! We’d arrived very close to 2 pm. Did the people make their 3 pm flights? Doesn’t matter this time, as there was a weather delay on most of the routes. The bus made 2 stops after the border: first the airport, than the Wyndham hotel.


MISCELLANEOUS There is one thing I didn’t like about bus rides - the seating. There was no rotation at all, only once the tour guide asked people sitting in the front to move 5 rows back the next day, so the people from the back can move up front. By the time we got on the bus after 2 train rides, it all was “forgotten“, of course! Boarding the train and the bus was more like survival of the fittest. Women asked their husbands to board first to take the best seats. I’ve traveled with Globus, Cosmos, Elderhostel - this was the first tour without seat rotation.

Copper Canyons have no copper, our tour guide told us. When the Spanish came to what is now Mexico, they saw the canyons covered with fungus, the color of the rocks was greenish - same as copper, this is how the canyons got the name. There are 6 major canyons, one of them Copper, 86 tunnels, forgot how many bridges, and the train ride is enchanting.

WHAT WOULD I DO DIFFERENT NEXT TIME? Would bring more $1 bills - for tips, not for tour guides, but for drinks and singers and such, for many small purchases: photo here, a souvenir there... Would try to find a spray repellent - mine was oily which I had to smear like lotion. Maybe April is a bit too late - the waterfalls were dry already. Paper seat covers are inconvenient - the ones I bought in Walgreens took too long to unfold. Wet antibacterial wipes would be much better.

WHAT WAS USEFUL ON THE TRIP: I had an electric coil to boil a glass of bottled water and herbal tea packages to make “iced tea” instead of plain bottled water which I don’t like to drink. Sink stopper worked for that quick laundry. Sunscreen and sunglasses, of course! Wet towelettes individually wrapped - even shared with others. Non-wrinkling clothes for long bus and train rides, not every lady had them. Pen should be handy for crossing the border forms and notes on the road, also paper or a small note-book. If you are a “munchy” type, can’t wait from lunch to dinner, bring snacks. Also, if you take motion sickness pills, take them for the train as well as the bus. The train ride is shaky.

Overall, I fulfilled my dream to see the Copper Canyons, and learned that Mexico is not what I’d imagined it would be. Caravan is a good, dependable company, and I would take more tours with them. I was right in my decision not to travel alone, but with a group.
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 06:07 AM
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Thanks for the nice report. I made this trip in '96 and your report brought back a lot of great memories for me . . . except for the mosquitoes in El Fuerte. I've traveled to 44 countries and I've never encountered mosquitoes anyplace else like those in EF!

Glad you had a good time . . . will be watching for your next trip report.

Buenos viajes,
Sandy (in Denton)
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 07:13 AM
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Welcome home FainaAgain. Thanks for the great detailed report!
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 08:05 AM
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Amazing and excellent trip report - great description and detail, felt like I was there !
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 08:31 AM
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Enjoyed reading your report, FainaAgain. The lizard story was very amusing!
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 08:45 AM
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Hi, Fain!

At last! another of your wonderful reports!

"communist blood" and leaping lizards - LOL! As usual, filled with your wonderful, unique humor.

Great trip report! Muchas gracias!
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 09:22 AM
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Faina, as usual your report is very entertaining!! Brava daaling!!

I hate mosquito bites--I wonder if I can get a blood transfusion from a Russian donor? :-?

Personally I would not have complained for having margaritas shoved in my face all the time, but that's just me. ;-) It's a shame I wasn't with you on this trip, I could have taken those pesky 'ritas off your hands.

One of my few complaints about Mexico is the locals who give you the off-key serenade, then they expect a tip. Next time I'll offer them a tip in advance, on the condition they do not sing.

Great report, thanks.
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 11:31 AM
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Thank you for your kind words, everybody!

Oh, P_M, you can ask Kal for Polish blood transfusion! But in this case you may go from yodeling to Polka dancing, is this what you want?
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 12:26 PM
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Great adventure Fiana. I guess the locals can't afford spray paint therefor no grafitti.

I was in Mexico many years ago and the armed soldiers made me very uncomfortable. I was a "young innocent" and had never been out of the U.S. so it was really a shock to me. These days, I would be very grateful to have them around. Lots of "bad doings" going on in Mexico these days. I'm not real anxious to go there and it's a shame, it's a beautiful country, and the people can certainly use the tourist dollars.

Glad you got picked up at the airport when you returned. Did poor Mr. Again just have to wait around for you? Glad you didn't have a personal relationship with the tornado. It's good to have you back.
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 01:01 PM
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Faina: Very much enjoyed another one of your entertaining reports, so detailed and colorful!
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 05:28 PM
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Faina!

It must be you because so many things make little sense!!!

How could mosquitoes not desire your commie blood????

And what's up with the Nazi maids stripping the linen while your in bed????

Don't even get me started about buying collector pottery that can't hold water~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Fantastic report!!!!!!!!!

Thank you so much for all the wonderful details. Will definately check back and enjoy the many details again!!!!!

But trashing those poor tone deaf seranadors - they were really doing their best. That bad????? Maybe you could get one of those tone note things the nuns used to use and teach them to sing better~~~~

Muy Bonita Chica Zaina! Bueono !!!!! Thankyou for taking me out of my day and into your adventure~
M

 
Old May 1st, 2007, 10:50 AM
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"so many things make little sense" - yes, yes, this is me

And don't worry about the Serenados in Creel, we had many more later in the tour, and "ballet folklorico" or something similar, and learned to dance ouselves, well, some of us
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Old May 1st, 2007, 03:38 PM
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Thanks for the trip report. Glad you are home safe and sound
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Old May 6th, 2007, 05:18 PM
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Howdy Sister FainaAgain! Finally got a chance to read your report. You've really outdone yourself this time, dearie!

I don't believe I've ever read a trip report that included:
- a tornado :-"
- Texas minestrone soup with refried beans #-o
- mosquitoes that don't like commie blood amp;
- leaping lizards
- too many margaritas!

Bravo, dahling! =D> =D>
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Old May 24th, 2007, 12:34 PM
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At the end of the tour, each participant got a questionnaire to fill out and to mail later from home. They asked not to fill out right away.

I answered their questions and attached my report posted here.

Received a nice letter from Caravan with a booklet and a personal letter thanking me for a detailed report: "4 people are now reading it" LOL
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Old May 25th, 2007, 02:07 PM
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Thanks for a great report on my favorite country! Copper Canyon sounds like a place to see, hope I get there someday. So many great places to see in Mexico!
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Old Jun 1st, 2007, 01:31 PM
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I got the credit card statement to compare conversion in-stores and charges.

In stores, they took $1 for every 10 Pesos. The credit card conversion rate is $10.98 for 100 Pesos. Plus 3% conversion fee.

Cash is better along the Copper Canyon train stops.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 09:02 AM
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The pictures are posted here, so far only the 1st part, Creel, El Fuerte and train in-between, with a stop at Divisadero

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/330934/index.html
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Old Jun 15th, 2007, 11:25 AM
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And this is the end of it.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/330997/index.html
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Old Jun 17th, 2007, 10:51 AM
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I took this Caravan trip last Oct. and never had a nicer trip. American Airlines from SFO to El Paso were without incident and were paid with FF miles.
We didn't have a single bite in El Fuerte or anywhere else and we did the river trip also.

Food was excellent most of the time, as all 3 meals everyday were included how could anyone not like that? Ever trying buying 3 meals a day with tips for a week and see what it would cost you? Also takes the guesswork out of where and what should we eat tonight.I take a free "eita" anytime anyone wants to give me one.The free chips and salsa are also a nice treat.

We had a great guide, Carlos, he was so sweet to everyone and took special care to make sure everyone was happy and well informed about where you needed to be, times etc. We had a guide in Italy that we could not hear her little meek voice and we missed some of our times, ending up getting into a real bad fight with her as she said we weren't paying attention to her instructions. I can tell your something about bad tour guides believe me.
Trip was mostly as she discribed, except I didn't have near as many negative thoughts as Faina. Its a wonderful trip and for the money its the best bargain in travel going today. I have since taken the Caravan Fall Colors tour and am going in July for the Canadian Rockies and Glacier Park tour, Buck




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