Atravelynn's 1st Safari Report
Jan 22nd, 2008, 03:23 PM
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Atravelynn's 1st Safari Report
<b>Motivation for this Report</b>
For years now I’ve meant to whip those first July/Aug 1994 safari journal impressions and crude notes into shape. I wanted something in a more readable form as a reminder of that magical first trip to Africa. A request from a fellow Fodorite for a link to my first safari report got the ball rolling. Thanks, RickMck!
Creating this report was a great trip down memory lane (or more appropriately memory game trails) so let me extend the favor. <font color="red"><b> Do some of you have long ago safari experiences swimming around in your head or jotted on old itineraries? Before you forget them or the ink fades, why not record a few, even if they are bits and pieces and not a whole LONG report like this one? Then post them on Fodor’s for the rest of us.</b></font>
I’ve changed or omitted a few names. The final sentence at the end of the report is not true.
<b>Motivation for 1st Trip</b>
If I was going to lose my job, I wanted to fulfill my life long dream of traveling to Africa while there was still income. I had participated in a recall election of a man who was my boss’s boss’s boss. Of all those involved in the recall effort, I obtained the most signatures to initiate the action, so I was a visible player. That was not good because the man survived the recall and remained my uber-boss. I resigned myself to going out with a bang by going to Africa.
<b>Preparation</b>
I went to a local travel agency to ask about Africa and pick up some brochures. The agent on duty tried to steer me toward Costa Rica if I was looking for “something eco.” Nothing against beautiful Costa Rica, but that was my first clue that using an African specialist was a good idea.
African Travel books from the local library and a check of references with the Better Business Bureau produced a couple African specialists. I called them up and gave my detailed requirements for a successful African safari: “I want to see animals!” I settled on Kenya, Tanzania, and Rwanda,
Itinerary and pricing fell into place with The Africa Adventure Company. Then Rwanda’s horrendous genocide in the spring of 1994 made it was obvious I would not be going there. I pushed to replace Rwanda with Uganda so I could still see gorillas, even though it would have cost more. AAC priced it out for, but discouraged the higher cost Uganda option because they believed the gorillas in Uganda were not sufficiently habituated at that time.
Instead of gorillas, I added time in the Maasai Mara and saved a bundle without the gorilla component. Though I was very pleased with my itinerary, I remained slightly disappointed that I would not be seeing the gorillas on my once in a lifetime trip to Africa.
Nairobi Boulevard 2
Tarangire Safari Lodge 2
Lake Manyara Lodge 1
Seronera Wildlife Lodge 2
Lobo Lodge 2
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge 2
Boulevard 1
Samburu Serena Lodge 2
The Ark 1
Lake Nakuru Lodge 1
Mara Serena 3
Little Governor’s 3
I already owned an ample supply of neutral colored clothes, but my concern was my bright white tennis socks. I was worried they might scare away the animals if light reflected off of my ankles at the floor of the vehicle. I know that was a long shot and Africa Adventure assured me that sock color would not matter. But with all the emphasis on wearing khaki, I wanted to take no chances. I dyed my five pairs of white socks beige and was ready to depart.
<b>Arrival </b>
Wycliff collected me at Kenyatta International Airport shortly before midnight and we settled into the vehicle for transport to the hotel. After introductions, his first comment was, “Please tell me that wrestling is real. If not I will rip up all my posters.”
I found it odd that I’d be perceived as an expert on the sport, but not wanting to dash his hopes, I emphasized the athleticism of the wrestlers and their tumbling skills. I don’t think I was too convincing on the authenticity of wrestling. I tried to make up for it by stating that a neighbor of mine was a former professional wrestler was still very muscular and strong. (The Crusher was alive and well at the time.) The fact that Hulk Hogan sometimes worked out at my gym was also a hit with Wycliff. So we were off to a congenial start.
Next, Wycliff asked why so many Americans came to Africa to see elephants and giraffes. “Don’t you have those in your country?” he asked. When I replied we did not, he pondered, “You probably did have many, but you just killed them all. Now you come to see ours.”
There was a hotel mix-up so I was dropped off for the night at Sixty Eight Hotel in downtown Nairobi instead of The Boulevard. Sixty Eight still exists, but I don’t hear much about it. The next morning I got a free cab ride back to The Boulevard, where the ever-present background music by Abba seemed out of place, but was pleasant enough.
<b>Nairobi National Park</b>
Fearing I might be unlucky and not see many animals in my three weeks of safari, I booked yet another chance for a glimpse of wildlife with a Giraffe Manor-Karen Blixen-Nairobi National Park all day combo tour, leaving from the Norfolk.
Shortly after entering Nairobi National Park, Animal #1 for me was The Giraffe. Forever more, the giraffe holds a special place in my heart. The only personal souvenir I brought home was a giraffe batik, offered to me by a shop owner at Thomson’s Falls for $100 and bargained down to $25, which probably was still too much. My mother got it framed for me as a gift and it hangs on my wall today.
Not only did I see a giraffe, but I had views of its eyelashes when it strolled by our vehicle. I saw hippos and could appreciate their nostrils. A prize—the elusive cheetah was spotted and I clicked some close-ups and observed the cat’s whiskers. I was absolutely stunned by how close everything was, not only to me in the vehicle, but to the bustling city. (Poaching has since taken a toll, I believe, but then very recently I read that Nairobi National Park is making a comeback.)
My notes of wildlife sightings also included zebra, ostrich, jackal, baboons (referred to as rats by our driver) and “many antlered things.” Next to that vague, inaccurate entry, I vowed in writing that by the end of the safari I’d be able to identify the animals and know their Kiswahili names. Though falling short of that goal, my wildlife knowledge did improve from “many antlered things.”
At dinner that evening my love affair with Kenyan Green Bean Salad began while the melodic tune Dancing Queen filled the air.
For years now I’ve meant to whip those first July/Aug 1994 safari journal impressions and crude notes into shape. I wanted something in a more readable form as a reminder of that magical first trip to Africa. A request from a fellow Fodorite for a link to my first safari report got the ball rolling. Thanks, RickMck!
Creating this report was a great trip down memory lane (or more appropriately memory game trails) so let me extend the favor. <font color="red"><b> Do some of you have long ago safari experiences swimming around in your head or jotted on old itineraries? Before you forget them or the ink fades, why not record a few, even if they are bits and pieces and not a whole LONG report like this one? Then post them on Fodor’s for the rest of us.</b></font>
I’ve changed or omitted a few names. The final sentence at the end of the report is not true.
<b>Motivation for 1st Trip</b>
If I was going to lose my job, I wanted to fulfill my life long dream of traveling to Africa while there was still income. I had participated in a recall election of a man who was my boss’s boss’s boss. Of all those involved in the recall effort, I obtained the most signatures to initiate the action, so I was a visible player. That was not good because the man survived the recall and remained my uber-boss. I resigned myself to going out with a bang by going to Africa.
<b>Preparation</b>
I went to a local travel agency to ask about Africa and pick up some brochures. The agent on duty tried to steer me toward Costa Rica if I was looking for “something eco.” Nothing against beautiful Costa Rica, but that was my first clue that using an African specialist was a good idea.
African Travel books from the local library and a check of references with the Better Business Bureau produced a couple African specialists. I called them up and gave my detailed requirements for a successful African safari: “I want to see animals!” I settled on Kenya, Tanzania, and Rwanda,
Itinerary and pricing fell into place with The Africa Adventure Company. Then Rwanda’s horrendous genocide in the spring of 1994 made it was obvious I would not be going there. I pushed to replace Rwanda with Uganda so I could still see gorillas, even though it would have cost more. AAC priced it out for, but discouraged the higher cost Uganda option because they believed the gorillas in Uganda were not sufficiently habituated at that time.
Instead of gorillas, I added time in the Maasai Mara and saved a bundle without the gorilla component. Though I was very pleased with my itinerary, I remained slightly disappointed that I would not be seeing the gorillas on my once in a lifetime trip to Africa.
Nairobi Boulevard 2
Tarangire Safari Lodge 2
Lake Manyara Lodge 1
Seronera Wildlife Lodge 2
Lobo Lodge 2
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge 2
Boulevard 1
Samburu Serena Lodge 2
The Ark 1
Lake Nakuru Lodge 1
Mara Serena 3
Little Governor’s 3
I already owned an ample supply of neutral colored clothes, but my concern was my bright white tennis socks. I was worried they might scare away the animals if light reflected off of my ankles at the floor of the vehicle. I know that was a long shot and Africa Adventure assured me that sock color would not matter. But with all the emphasis on wearing khaki, I wanted to take no chances. I dyed my five pairs of white socks beige and was ready to depart.
<b>Arrival </b>
Wycliff collected me at Kenyatta International Airport shortly before midnight and we settled into the vehicle for transport to the hotel. After introductions, his first comment was, “Please tell me that wrestling is real. If not I will rip up all my posters.”
I found it odd that I’d be perceived as an expert on the sport, but not wanting to dash his hopes, I emphasized the athleticism of the wrestlers and their tumbling skills. I don’t think I was too convincing on the authenticity of wrestling. I tried to make up for it by stating that a neighbor of mine was a former professional wrestler was still very muscular and strong. (The Crusher was alive and well at the time.) The fact that Hulk Hogan sometimes worked out at my gym was also a hit with Wycliff. So we were off to a congenial start.
Next, Wycliff asked why so many Americans came to Africa to see elephants and giraffes. “Don’t you have those in your country?” he asked. When I replied we did not, he pondered, “You probably did have many, but you just killed them all. Now you come to see ours.”
There was a hotel mix-up so I was dropped off for the night at Sixty Eight Hotel in downtown Nairobi instead of The Boulevard. Sixty Eight still exists, but I don’t hear much about it. The next morning I got a free cab ride back to The Boulevard, where the ever-present background music by Abba seemed out of place, but was pleasant enough.
<b>Nairobi National Park</b>
Fearing I might be unlucky and not see many animals in my three weeks of safari, I booked yet another chance for a glimpse of wildlife with a Giraffe Manor-Karen Blixen-Nairobi National Park all day combo tour, leaving from the Norfolk.
Shortly after entering Nairobi National Park, Animal #1 for me was The Giraffe. Forever more, the giraffe holds a special place in my heart. The only personal souvenir I brought home was a giraffe batik, offered to me by a shop owner at Thomson’s Falls for $100 and bargained down to $25, which probably was still too much. My mother got it framed for me as a gift and it hangs on my wall today.
Not only did I see a giraffe, but I had views of its eyelashes when it strolled by our vehicle. I saw hippos and could appreciate their nostrils. A prize—the elusive cheetah was spotted and I clicked some close-ups and observed the cat’s whiskers. I was absolutely stunned by how close everything was, not only to me in the vehicle, but to the bustling city. (Poaching has since taken a toll, I believe, but then very recently I read that Nairobi National Park is making a comeback.)
My notes of wildlife sightings also included zebra, ostrich, jackal, baboons (referred to as rats by our driver) and “many antlered things.” Next to that vague, inaccurate entry, I vowed in writing that by the end of the safari I’d be able to identify the animals and know their Kiswahili names. Though falling short of that goal, my wildlife knowledge did improve from “many antlered things.”
At dinner that evening my love affair with Kenyan Green Bean Salad began while the melodic tune Dancing Queen filled the air.
Jan 22nd, 2008, 04:35 PM
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A story packed to burst with little gems, Lynn - well done! Love the beige socks story. 
So, did you lose your job? Is that coming later? And "the final sentence at the end of the report is not true". You tease!
By the way, my impression was that Nairobi National Park has lost animals more because of the loss of the traditional migration corridors outside the park to farmland than directly due to poaching - but I await correction on that.
So, did you lose your job? Is that coming later? And "the final sentence at the end of the report is not true". You tease!
By the way, my impression was that Nairobi National Park has lost animals more because of the loss of the traditional migration corridors outside the park to farmland than directly due to poaching - but I await correction on that.
Jan 22nd, 2008, 05:34 PM
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Hi Lynn,
If I am not "a muse" for getting you going on this, I am at least certainly "amused" by the socks and the "many antlered things"... As you are not yet past Nairobi, this should be an installment series to look forward to! And the last sentence not being true ... is that the Green Bean Salad, the last sentence of a final installment yet to come, or a mystery for us to try and figure out?
If I am not "a muse" for getting you going on this, I am at least certainly "amused" by the socks and the "many antlered things"... As you are not yet past Nairobi, this should be an installment series to look forward to! And the last sentence not being true ... is that the Green Bean Salad, the last sentence of a final installment yet to come, or a mystery for us to try and figure out?
Jan 23rd, 2008, 03:02 AM
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This is a real treat. Keep it coming!
I've been toying with the idea of posting a trip report about my 1st trip in 2003-this was pre fodor's for me...I didn't even own a computer then!
What a great idea to hear how all the seasoned Africaholics ended up in Africa, their preparations, 1st impressions,etc.
Thanks!
I've been toying with the idea of posting a trip report about my 1st trip in 2003-this was pre fodor's for me...I didn't even own a computer then!
What a great idea to hear how all the seasoned Africaholics ended up in Africa, their preparations, 1st impressions,etc.
Thanks!
Jan 23rd, 2008, 05:07 AM
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Lynn -
You had to write it in "red" - does that mean, in addition to finishing my most recent report, I have to do a report for my very first safari?
You're bad. But, guess what? Hee-hee-hee..............
That was the very first trip for which I wrote a journal. Will have to go thru my stack of lovely books (I believe it's the one with ellees on the cover) and see if I can accommodate... eventually, maybe, whenever.
You had to write it in "red" - does that mean, in addition to finishing my most recent report, I have to do a report for my very first safari?
You're bad. But, guess what? Hee-hee-hee..............
That was the very first trip for which I wrote a journal. Will have to go thru my stack of lovely books (I believe it's the one with ellees on the cover) and see if I can accommodate... eventually, maybe, whenever.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 07:06 AM
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Lynn,
Since I discovered this forum a couple of years ago, I've always admired your attitude, style, and humor, and now I can add your memory to the list. But since you have already finished the report (the "last sentence" reference), don't tease us and keep us on the edge of our computer chairs, put it all out there.
Since I discovered this forum a couple of years ago, I've always admired your attitude, style, and humor, and now I can add your memory to the list. But since you have already finished the report (the "last sentence" reference), don't tease us and keep us on the edge of our computer chairs, put it all out there.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 08:03 AM
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Kimburu, I will readily defer to your knowledge about Nairobi National Park. My comment is not based on any scientific research, just stuff I’ve heard. I think the poaching might pertain more to the rhinos. In many areas habitat destruction is often worse than poaching. I hope the part about the park making a comeback is true, but that is also just stuff I’ve heard.
Regarding the job, that is coming later, but I didn't lose it and it's not a big part of the story.
Rick (The Muse) Mck, The untruth is not about the Green Bean Salad. I would never lie about food. In fact I place so much importance on what goes on my plate or in my bowl that I don’t even joke about the subject.
The last line of falsehood will appear at the end of Epilogue.
Leely, You’ve given tons to the forum! I always look forward to seeing your name.
Sandi, The red is not meant to be an authoritarian tone, just an attention getter. Please don’t feel you now have an assignment or a required task. Don’t want this to turn into another burden like filling out your 1040 (for my US friends). But if you find your journal with the elephants on the cover, you can share some of its treasures.
Lillipets, The way you call us seasoned Africaholics, your report should begin, “My name is Lillipets and I am an Africaholic."
Matnikstym, Wish my memory were that good to remember verbatim conversations. I wrote the funny stuff down and took copious notes on that first (and I thought only) trip.
Hguy47, You are too kind! I may have asked this elsewhere, but when do you think Kambi Ya Tembo is at its wildlife viewing best?
Thanks for all the nice comments and encouragement on this tale from days of old.
Regarding the job, that is coming later, but I didn't lose it and it's not a big part of the story.
Rick (The Muse) Mck, The untruth is not about the Green Bean Salad. I would never lie about food. In fact I place so much importance on what goes on my plate or in my bowl that I don’t even joke about the subject.
The last line of falsehood will appear at the end of Epilogue.
Leely, You’ve given tons to the forum! I always look forward to seeing your name.
Sandi, The red is not meant to be an authoritarian tone, just an attention getter. Please don’t feel you now have an assignment or a required task. Don’t want this to turn into another burden like filling out your 1040 (for my US friends). But if you find your journal with the elephants on the cover, you can share some of its treasures.
Lillipets, The way you call us seasoned Africaholics, your report should begin, “My name is Lillipets and I am an Africaholic."
Matnikstym, Wish my memory were that good to remember verbatim conversations. I wrote the funny stuff down and took copious notes on that first (and I thought only) trip.
Hguy47, You are too kind! I may have asked this elsewhere, but when do you think Kambi Ya Tembo is at its wildlife viewing best?
Thanks for all the nice comments and encouragement on this tale from days of old.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 09:12 AM
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Oh to be eating green bean salad while listening to Dancing Queen.
Only you, our Africa loving friend, could make that sound so enticing.
More please!
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm longing to get back to Africa. Lynn's wonderful story telling is a quick fix.
sandi,
It's only right that you finish your reports, as well
Only you, our Africa loving friend, could make that sound so enticing.
More please!
I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm longing to get back to Africa. Lynn's wonderful story telling is a quick fix.
sandi,
It's only right that you finish your reports, as well
Jan 23rd, 2008, 09:40 AM
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Lynn, I knew that if anyone would write a retro report, it would be you! I’d actually heard about your dyed socks before, but they were even more hilarious this time. I think Wycliff had a point in his assessment about Americans’ (and others’) reasons for going to Africa. There’s both poaching and habitat destruction in the Nairobi NP dispersal area. I haven’t heard anything about rhino poaching though. I think they keep a low profile and stay inside the park (and I hope I’m right). The lions have been less safe. I haven’t heard any really good news, but there seem to be lots of cubs at the moment and KWS have burnt some boring old grass to lure many antlered things that are grazers inside the park.
More now!
More now!
Jan 23rd, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Lynn, having spent a grand total of two days at Kambi Ya Tembo (indeed, your good memory is shown once again), I'm afraid I don't qualify as an expert. We spent one afternoon on a game walk where, as on most walks, we saw little game, and the other afternoon visiting a Maasai boma, so we only had two game drives, as such. We saw a fair amount of game on those two drives (in late February), but most of the elephants for which the area is known had already started their trek north to Amboseli. So with my limited knowledge, I would classify the game in late February as mediocre, but can't vouch for the other 350 days.
Jan 23rd, 2008, 11:30 AM
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Lynn, you never cease to amaze me.
Was it the Kenyan Green bean salad or maybe a case of Khaki Fever?
I just had to listen to this while reading your report <
http://youtube.com/watch?v=7GFpMb0sOaw
Keep it coming!
Was it the Kenyan Green bean salad or maybe a case of Khaki Fever?
I just had to listen to this while reading your report <
http://youtube.com/watch?v=7GFpMb0sOaw
Keep it coming!
Cindy
Jan 23rd, 2008, 02:41 PM
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Thanks Lynn for the report and for the invite to other members to post their reports.
You're a good egg!
=D>
It's a neat to read this newbie perspective---we're all there at some point. I feel like I'm about to hear an installment of "the rest of the story..." from public radio.
You're a good egg!
=D>
It's a neat to read this newbie perspective---we're all there at some point. I feel like I'm about to hear an installment of "the rest of the story..." from public radio.
