Just Returned from WS Migration Routes + Mala Mala
Nov 3rd, 2007, 11:15 AM
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Just Returned from WS Migration Routes + Mala Mala
I’m just back from my first African safari: a combination of the Wilderness Safaris “Migration Routes” mobile camping trip (9d / 8n), followed by Mala Mala (4d / 3n). Thought I’d post a brief synopsis for now, then post a more detailed report and pictures later (I’ve got about 2500 pics to sort through and winnow down to something manageable).
The entire trip was fabulous! The combination of the Migration Routes mobile followed by the comfort and quality of MM was brilliant. Two very different experiences, but each was fabulous and each produced more species in greater numbers than I could have reasonably expected.
A brief word on Migration Routes... This camping mobile is very well done. Three of the four camps were exceptional in terms of their placement and the quality of their settings. All the camp staff were marvelous, very welcoming, helpful, and accommodating. The food was great, tasty "home cooking" all prepared over a wood fire, including fresh-baked breads, and a wide-ranging menu that never repeated from camp to camp. Our Guide, Emmanuel, was knowledgeable and fun. Transfers between camps included mokoro, road, and air. One of the road transfers is uncomfortably long and difficult going (all day, basically) but is rewarded by what you get (game-wise) in the middle and at the end. We stayed in, and/or traversed, the same areas as the more expensive camps -- Xigera, Vumbura, Zibadianja, and Kings Pool -- and saw the same game that folks at those camps would see. We joked that we got "the same dirt and dust as the posh camps, but twice as much at half the price." I would enthusiastically endorse this trip, provided however that you are comfortable with the realities of camping (some lack of privacy, no indoor plumbing or running water, getting very dirty, and sometimes uncomfortable traveling conditions), as it's not for everyone. Also, we were very fortunate in that our group of six (an Australian couple, an English woman and her two daughters aged 12 and 14, and me -- a single American male) turned out to be a very compatible and companionable group. We had great fun together – and the two girls were a delight to have along. I could imagine a different experience if you are in a difficult or non-compatible group. My guess, however, is that the very nature of the type of folks likely to go on a mobile like this goes a long way toward ensuring a degree of compatibility.
Some of the highlights of the Migration Routes trip: several fantastic mokoro trips in the Delta around Xigera; Great Eagle Owl and Pels’ Fishing Owl; quality time with a Cheetah near Vumbura; raucous action at night as Lions hunted Buffalo directly across from camp in the Selinda Spillway; quality time with the dominant Lions of the Lechwe Island area (2 brothers); the profusion of wildlife around Zibadianja Lagoon and the waterhole hide (including a herd of 100+ elephants bathing and drinking in the lagoon area); brief glimpse of an African Wild Cat (sorry, no pics!); a Hyena lapping water from the wash basin outside my tent at 3:00am, not 2 meters from me and separated only by the mosquito netting of my tent flap (!); an Elephant joining us in camp for afternoon tea; quality time with the dominant Lions of the Linyanti area (three brothers, the Border Boys, so-named because their territory also includes areas in Namibia across the Linyanti River); the Border Boys on night patrol, roaring all night, at times very close to camp; night sighting with spotlight of a male Leopard feeding on an Elephant carcass; quality daylight sighting of an alert female Leopard; quality time with four Hyena pups playing and chasing one another outside their den (much cuter as pups than as adults!); a huge pod of 50 or more Hippos in the Chobe River.
Mala Mala started off a bit slow and, for the first 4 drives, included an insufferable vehicle-mate. But the game viewing got better as things progressed, the pain-in-the-butt and her party left after two nights, and I had the last two drives alone with the ranger. The rooms at MM are spacious and very comfortable. I had a stand-alone rondavel as a single (Room 20), with a nice wooden deck out back. Each day there was something different in “my backyard,” including Nyala, Bushbuck, Baboons, and once even a Hippo entirely out of water and grazing through the “yard.”
Game highlights at MM included: quality time with a herd of about 12 or 15 Elephants, including a weeks-old youngster, which eventually surrounded our stopped vehicle and grazed all around us, at times almost within touching distance; a close encounter with a crush of 6 Rhinos; a night sighting with spotlight of the Styx Pride (7 Lionesses) on the move; quality time with a female Leopard (Daughter of the Campbell Koppies Female) in a tree eating a Python; more quality time with another female Leopard (Kikileze Female) with a full belly assuming the classic Leopard-in-repose posture, draped across a tree limb with legs dangling; and on the final morning, an almost unbelievable 2 hours alone (ranger, tracker, and I) in the midst of a very active Styx Pride – almost like being a member of the pride!
Full report to come, once I’ve got the pics sorted…
rickmck
The entire trip was fabulous! The combination of the Migration Routes mobile followed by the comfort and quality of MM was brilliant. Two very different experiences, but each was fabulous and each produced more species in greater numbers than I could have reasonably expected.
A brief word on Migration Routes... This camping mobile is very well done. Three of the four camps were exceptional in terms of their placement and the quality of their settings. All the camp staff were marvelous, very welcoming, helpful, and accommodating. The food was great, tasty "home cooking" all prepared over a wood fire, including fresh-baked breads, and a wide-ranging menu that never repeated from camp to camp. Our Guide, Emmanuel, was knowledgeable and fun. Transfers between camps included mokoro, road, and air. One of the road transfers is uncomfortably long and difficult going (all day, basically) but is rewarded by what you get (game-wise) in the middle and at the end. We stayed in, and/or traversed, the same areas as the more expensive camps -- Xigera, Vumbura, Zibadianja, and Kings Pool -- and saw the same game that folks at those camps would see. We joked that we got "the same dirt and dust as the posh camps, but twice as much at half the price." I would enthusiastically endorse this trip, provided however that you are comfortable with the realities of camping (some lack of privacy, no indoor plumbing or running water, getting very dirty, and sometimes uncomfortable traveling conditions), as it's not for everyone. Also, we were very fortunate in that our group of six (an Australian couple, an English woman and her two daughters aged 12 and 14, and me -- a single American male) turned out to be a very compatible and companionable group. We had great fun together – and the two girls were a delight to have along. I could imagine a different experience if you are in a difficult or non-compatible group. My guess, however, is that the very nature of the type of folks likely to go on a mobile like this goes a long way toward ensuring a degree of compatibility.
Some of the highlights of the Migration Routes trip: several fantastic mokoro trips in the Delta around Xigera; Great Eagle Owl and Pels’ Fishing Owl; quality time with a Cheetah near Vumbura; raucous action at night as Lions hunted Buffalo directly across from camp in the Selinda Spillway; quality time with the dominant Lions of the Lechwe Island area (2 brothers); the profusion of wildlife around Zibadianja Lagoon and the waterhole hide (including a herd of 100+ elephants bathing and drinking in the lagoon area); brief glimpse of an African Wild Cat (sorry, no pics!); a Hyena lapping water from the wash basin outside my tent at 3:00am, not 2 meters from me and separated only by the mosquito netting of my tent flap (!); an Elephant joining us in camp for afternoon tea; quality time with the dominant Lions of the Linyanti area (three brothers, the Border Boys, so-named because their territory also includes areas in Namibia across the Linyanti River); the Border Boys on night patrol, roaring all night, at times very close to camp; night sighting with spotlight of a male Leopard feeding on an Elephant carcass; quality daylight sighting of an alert female Leopard; quality time with four Hyena pups playing and chasing one another outside their den (much cuter as pups than as adults!); a huge pod of 50 or more Hippos in the Chobe River.
Mala Mala started off a bit slow and, for the first 4 drives, included an insufferable vehicle-mate. But the game viewing got better as things progressed, the pain-in-the-butt and her party left after two nights, and I had the last two drives alone with the ranger. The rooms at MM are spacious and very comfortable. I had a stand-alone rondavel as a single (Room 20), with a nice wooden deck out back. Each day there was something different in “my backyard,” including Nyala, Bushbuck, Baboons, and once even a Hippo entirely out of water and grazing through the “yard.”
Game highlights at MM included: quality time with a herd of about 12 or 15 Elephants, including a weeks-old youngster, which eventually surrounded our stopped vehicle and grazed all around us, at times almost within touching distance; a close encounter with a crush of 6 Rhinos; a night sighting with spotlight of the Styx Pride (7 Lionesses) on the move; quality time with a female Leopard (Daughter of the Campbell Koppies Female) in a tree eating a Python; more quality time with another female Leopard (Kikileze Female) with a full belly assuming the classic Leopard-in-repose posture, draped across a tree limb with legs dangling; and on the final morning, an almost unbelievable 2 hours alone (ranger, tracker, and I) in the midst of a very active Styx Pride – almost like being a member of the pride!
Full report to come, once I’ve got the pics sorted…
rickmck
Nov 3rd, 2007, 07:12 PM
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Rick,
The migration routes sound fantastic!!! Didn't realize you traverse the same game viewing routes ...... and you probably spent more bush time that the people staying at the permanent camps. Awesome!!!
So, you saw Milky Eye(one eyed male lion) and brother near the Selinda spillway?
Cheers,
Hari
The migration routes sound fantastic!!! Didn't realize you traverse the same game viewing routes ...... and you probably spent more bush time that the people staying at the permanent camps. Awesome!!!
So, you saw Milky Eye(one eyed male lion) and brother near the Selinda spillway?
Cheers,
Hari
Nov 3rd, 2007, 10:31 PM
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Hi rickmck
Look forward to your detailed report. I am not a camping person but am definitely a MM person. Lucky you did not have the nightmare guests on your camping trip where you could not escape them easily! Seeing the hippo in that area was a highlight in this warmer weather - have also seen a big ele bull drinking from that pool of water.
Who was your ranger/tracker combo? Also really love that you name the cats that you saw at MM! I shall return with a niece in mid-December and I cannot wait!
Kind regards
Kaye
Look forward to your detailed report. I am not a camping person but am definitely a MM person. Lucky you did not have the nightmare guests on your camping trip where you could not escape them easily! Seeing the hippo in that area was a highlight in this warmer weather - have also seen a big ele bull drinking from that pool of water.
Who was your ranger/tracker combo? Also really love that you name the cats that you saw at MM! I shall return with a niece in mid-December and I cannot wait!
Kind regards
Kaye
Nov 4th, 2007, 05:27 AM
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Great to hear about the mobile camping trip especially. I guess one of my main worries about this kind of trip is the possibility of being stuck with someone unbearable. Whilst the chances are reasonably small (I get on with most people I meet) I have been on larger group trips in the past with at least one complete nightmare person. The only saving grace was that in a larger group I could avoid them. In a small group that would be difficult.
Nov 4th, 2007, 07:04 AM
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That came and went so fast Rick. Seems like yesterday you were just starting to plan...Glad your trip was fabulous.What great highlights! Someone else was just mentioning the hyenas drinking from the wash basin. 100+ ellies must have been incredible!
Your combo is interesting and thanks for the honest descriptions of the mobile camping.
I love following the Styx pride. Did you see the 9 cubbies?
Looking forward to hearing more and seeing your photos. <
Your combo is interesting and thanks for the honest descriptions of the mobile camping.
I love following the Styx pride. Did you see the 9 cubbies?
Looking forward to hearing more and seeing your photos. <
Nov 4th, 2007, 07:31 AM
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Hi Rick and thanks for that sweet little "piece de resistance", very nicely written, great report. I actually like these short clear reports as I rarely have the time and patience to read through long winded ones online. Have been considering the same WS safari for some time and discussed it with Jose Cortes the Asian agent with ATO in HK. Only reason I have not yet gone ahead is because of the uncertainity of the group compatibility issue. Maybe one day when I find some like minded buddies....!
Mohammed
Mohammed
Nov 4th, 2007, 10:43 AM
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Thanks for the comments, folks.
annhig - Cost for the Migration Routes was $3,048 and no single supplement (great value for money), but for 2008 the cost has gone up to $3650 and there is now a single supplement of $485. The itinerary has also changed a bit, dropping the overnight in the Savuti Marsh area in favor of adding another night in the Linyanti area, and it has also been extended by one additional day by adding another night at Lechwe Island. These are positive changes, I think, as Savuti was the only disappointment on my itinerary and Linyanti was the the most prolific and productive area. I booked through Eyes on Africa; their web page for Migration Routes is http://www.eyesonafrica.net/safaris/.../migration.htm
HariS - Sorry but I did not see Milky Eye. I must have been in a different area of the Spillway.
KayeN - Ranger / Tracker combo was Andy Clarke & Moses. MM was great and I hope to go back sometime. I have noticed from your posts that you are very generous with MM trips for your nieces. Perhaps you'd like to adopt a nephew?
CarlaM - Did not see the cubs. I believe they are with the Eyrefield Pride and they were off the property during my stay.
Been working on the photos...
annhig - Cost for the Migration Routes was $3,048 and no single supplement (great value for money), but for 2008 the cost has gone up to $3650 and there is now a single supplement of $485. The itinerary has also changed a bit, dropping the overnight in the Savuti Marsh area in favor of adding another night in the Linyanti area, and it has also been extended by one additional day by adding another night at Lechwe Island. These are positive changes, I think, as Savuti was the only disappointment on my itinerary and Linyanti was the the most prolific and productive area. I booked through Eyes on Africa; their web page for Migration Routes is http://www.eyesonafrica.net/safaris/.../migration.htm
HariS - Sorry but I did not see Milky Eye. I must have been in a different area of the Spillway.
KayeN - Ranger / Tracker combo was Andy Clarke & Moses. MM was great and I hope to go back sometime. I have noticed from your posts that you are very generous with MM trips for your nieces. Perhaps you'd like to adopt a nephew?
CarlaM - Did not see the cubs. I believe they are with the Eyrefield Pride and they were off the property during my stay.
Been working on the photos...
Nov 4th, 2007, 06:46 PM
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Hi rickmck
Don't know Andy, but all the rangers are wonderful, so you cannot go wrong! Hoping I'll recognise a few of the rangers by the time I do get there in December.
I do have a nephew but at the moment he is not too keen on going to Africa which makes it hard to believe he is my nephew!
Really hoping that I see the cubs of the Eyrefield Pride as I also missed the last lot in March. Also hoping a few leopard cubs may be visible by December.
Kind regards
Kaye
Don't know Andy, but all the rangers are wonderful, so you cannot go wrong! Hoping I'll recognise a few of the rangers by the time I do get there in December.
I do have a nephew but at the moment he is not too keen on going to Africa which makes it hard to believe he is my nephew!
Really hoping that I see the cubs of the Eyrefield Pride as I also missed the last lot in March. Also hoping a few leopard cubs may be visible by December.
Kind regards
Kaye
Nov 4th, 2007, 07:16 PM
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Rick,
Perhaps, you were more towards the Motswiri side of the Selinda concession than the Selinda/Zib side .....
Will await details in your report, but what was the usual game drive duration on the trip?
Group of 6 on the mobile isn't that many more than you would have on a regular tented camp game drive, so i guess it would be similar. If one can go with a group of known friends ...... should be a great value for money trip!
Hari
Perhaps, you were more towards the Motswiri side of the Selinda concession than the Selinda/Zib side .....
Will await details in your report, but what was the usual game drive duration on the trip?
Group of 6 on the mobile isn't that many more than you would have on a regular tented camp game drive, so i guess it would be similar. If one can go with a group of known friends ...... should be a great value for money trip!
Hari
Nov 4th, 2007, 07:50 PM
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Hari,
Yes, the Lechwe Island camp was near Motswiri. The very long (almost day-long) road transfer from there to Savuti passed through the Zib area. Half-way through this transfer, we had about 2 hours respite to enjoy the area around Zib Lagoon and the Waterhole Hide near there. Wildlife was prolific in that area.
When we were in camp, the typical day was up at 5:30, light breakfast at 6:00, out for a drive at 6:15 or 6:30, back in camp between 10:30 or 11:00 for brunch, siesta, and showers (bucket showers). Back out at 3:30 or 4:00 until dark. A couple of evenings, we extended the afternoon drive to do some spotlighting. All-in-all, a lot of time on game drives -- more so than the daily schedule at MM.
On the ocassions where we had a road transfer between camps, we would typically be on the road by 6:30 and make the transfer into a long game drive, stopping as the opportunities presented themselves.
At MM, I was in a vehicle with 5 other guests (one of whom was difficult) for the first 4 drives, then got lucky when all the others moved on and I had the vehicle to yself for the last 2 drives. At MM, we were off around 6:15 and returned at 9:30. In the afternoon, we were off right after 4:00 tea (say 4:15) and returned at 7:30. They were pretty compliant with this schedule. The gate is supposed to be down and locked at 7:30pm. Once, we were out until nearly 8:00pm and the Ranger was a bit agitated about that. On my last morning, when I had the Ranger and Tracker to myself and we were in the midst of the Styx Pride for 2 hours, we didn't get back until 10:30am which was clearly unusual. The Ranger had radioed ahead and asked them to set aside some continental breakfast for us since, by that time, the food service would have been packed up.
Yes, the Lechwe Island camp was near Motswiri. The very long (almost day-long) road transfer from there to Savuti passed through the Zib area. Half-way through this transfer, we had about 2 hours respite to enjoy the area around Zib Lagoon and the Waterhole Hide near there. Wildlife was prolific in that area.
When we were in camp, the typical day was up at 5:30, light breakfast at 6:00, out for a drive at 6:15 or 6:30, back in camp between 10:30 or 11:00 for brunch, siesta, and showers (bucket showers). Back out at 3:30 or 4:00 until dark. A couple of evenings, we extended the afternoon drive to do some spotlighting. All-in-all, a lot of time on game drives -- more so than the daily schedule at MM.
On the ocassions where we had a road transfer between camps, we would typically be on the road by 6:30 and make the transfer into a long game drive, stopping as the opportunities presented themselves.
At MM, I was in a vehicle with 5 other guests (one of whom was difficult) for the first 4 drives, then got lucky when all the others moved on and I had the vehicle to yself for the last 2 drives. At MM, we were off around 6:15 and returned at 9:30. In the afternoon, we were off right after 4:00 tea (say 4:15) and returned at 7:30. They were pretty compliant with this schedule. The gate is supposed to be down and locked at 7:30pm. Once, we were out until nearly 8:00pm and the Ranger was a bit agitated about that. On my last morning, when I had the Ranger and Tracker to myself and we were in the midst of the Styx Pride for 2 hours, we didn't get back until 10:30am which was clearly unusual. The Ranger had radioed ahead and asked them to set aside some continental breakfast for us since, by that time, the food service would have been packed up.
Nov 5th, 2007, 12:52 AM
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Hari,
The difference in having 4 vehicle mates on game drives is a) one is usually on a different itinerary so if there is a clash it's only for a few days and b) you can ask management to switch you into a different vehicle if it's really bad.
On a mobile camping trip you're stuck with them for the whole trip!
It's be great to be able to fill such a trip with friends but whilst a few of our friends understand the appeal none would even contemplate paying the prices involved for it when they can go to the beach or skiiing for a few hundred pounds per week!
The difference in having 4 vehicle mates on game drives is a) one is usually on a different itinerary so if there is a clash it's only for a few days and b) you can ask management to switch you into a different vehicle if it's really bad.
On a mobile camping trip you're stuck with them for the whole trip!
It's be great to be able to fill such a trip with friends but whilst a few of our friends understand the appeal none would even contemplate paying the prices involved for it when they can go to the beach or skiiing for a few hundred pounds per week!
Nov 6th, 2007, 05:37 PM
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Rick,
Sounds like a fantastic trip. Welcome home. Thanks for the synopsis. Mobile followed by MM sounds like a great way to go. Looking forward to the photos.
Hari and Kavey,
And remember the non-mobile Namibia group trip that went sour (mine). True, about being stuck with bad travel companions (vehicle mates, mobile safari mates, group trip mates) for any length of time. Very different from being stuck at a single camp for a defined period of time, where you can likely ask for a switch. You should definitely have at least one friend/traveling companion with you on a group trip in case you want to escape the others. You might also be able to ask in advance about the others booked on the trip. Perhaps even correspond with them.
Sounds like a fantastic trip. Welcome home. Thanks for the synopsis. Mobile followed by MM sounds like a great way to go. Looking forward to the photos.
Hari and Kavey,
And remember the non-mobile Namibia group trip that went sour (mine). True, about being stuck with bad travel companions (vehicle mates, mobile safari mates, group trip mates) for any length of time. Very different from being stuck at a single camp for a defined period of time, where you can likely ask for a switch. You should definitely have at least one friend/traveling companion with you on a group trip in case you want to escape the others. You might also be able to ask in advance about the others booked on the trip. Perhaps even correspond with them.
