Denbasking

Patty, Leely, Nyamera & Wayne has it been a week already since I said I would post my report? Golly time flies!

Den’s 2006 Trip Report (well, some of it)!

1) Thank You Foderites!

2) June 8- 20: Report Not Complete…TO COME!

Kilimanjaro & Karatu Region: Wow, 5 Stars in bringing to life the reality of the way of life for folks in Tanzanian no matter how much I read and prepared for what I experienced!

Getting together with and old friend and her local friends:

Many visitions up close and personal in local places and homes. We also ventured to Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, & Gibbs Farm…

3) June 21-27: REPORT SUMMARY COMPLETE!

Mobile-Fly Camping Safari in the Serengeti!
Outfitter: KiliWarrior Expeditions! 5 Lion Paws!

4) June 28-July 2: Report Not Complete…
Outfitter: Great Lakes Safari via KiliWarrior Expeditions! 5 Mountain Gorilla Nose Prints!

5) Why has it taken me so long to report? The Intimated, The Sad, The Good & The Fun News!


1) THANK YOU FODERITES!

My trip was actually planned before I discovered the Fordors website but with all the experience and expertise from the travelers my trip was enhanced threefold! Also, after awhile I figured out that one of the owners of the Outfitter I chose (KiliWarrior Expeditions, Climbhighsleeplow) was a poster and unbeknownst to me I had been enjoying some of his posts! What a riot! The world really is small!

I wish to thank; MartyNC, Sandi, Patty, Leely, Nyamera, Wayne…IMPOSSIBLE to name all the Forderites I wish to thank whom I appreciated their contributions to my trip as I have gleaned much from everyone!

CAMERA HELP (WHAT WOULD YOUR “SAFARI CAMERA KIT” LOOK LIKE?): Thanks ever so much to Jasher who really got the ball rolling in a format that was possible for me to negotiate a plan of attack in purchasing a camera!

Also thanks for their camera input to: Kavey, Mediatorr, cary999, lovetodiscover. 99mkw & Andy Biggs indirectly via his website!

3) June 21-27: Report Summary Complete!
Mobile-Fly Camping Safari in the Serengeti!
Outfitter: KiliWarrior Expeditions! 5 Lion Paws!

These websites are all connected but to make it easy to negotiate I have listed them separately:

KiliWarrior safari testimonial page - Den’s visual and written testimonial:
http://www.kiliwarriors.com/safari_testimonials.htm
(This represents only one week of my time in Africa-but a great one!)

The Home Page for KiliWarrior Safari’s:
http://www.kiliwarriors.com/

This Home Page for KiliWarrior Climbing and best to get to know them from:
http://www.go-kili.com/

The Home Page for one of their Charities:
http://www.kiliwarriors.com/safari_charity.htm

This website is valuable RESOURCE for anyone planning a trip to Africa:
http://www.go-safari.com/


5) WHY HAS IT TAKEN ME SO LONG TO REPORT?

The Intimated:

I have to admit I was inspired recently by folks mentioning “summaries are AOK”!

The Sad:

Post Africa Depression & the finality that a report represents! Oh yea, and those real life duties!

The Good:

I am going to be returning to live for a time as I am in the development stage of forming an out of school Youth Program (OOSY) in collaboration with folks there! More on this late…

I have also committed to block out some time for Ernest, from the KiliWarriors, who has formed The Maasai Joy Children’s Center organization along with some other projects in the Moshi & Karatu areas I am involved in.

The Fun:

I have been in constant contact working on different matters with my friends from Tanzania and Rwanda since I have been home! Very nourishing since I had a bad case of post Africa withdrawal!

I have been touring my KiliWarrior Guide all around my region in the form of a prop! So funny, I will eventually post pictures!

The End:

I really will follow up on the missing reports but I did want to let all you know how much you really do help folks and your help in turn makes it possible for us to not only enjoy our “safari’s” but inspires us to contribute what we can and have the opportunity to be “student ambassadors” for the many needs in Africa!


Ahsante sana!

Den

Leely

Karibu sana!

I am looking forward to more if and when you're so disposed. Also would love to hear about the OOSY (?).

And is this the same Ernest who visited climbhigh and Mrs. climbhigh over Thanksgiving?

atravelynn

A unique way to organize your report. I read the link to Kiliwarriors. You had a varied trip. Hope to see some more of it.

Denbasking

Oooh CRINGE! Please forgive my spelling errors…should read-Fodorites, Visitations & The Intimidated! I seem to be doing this a lot lately! I have a very bad habit of believing I can knock one more item off my list of tasks after I have been on a 48 hour or so working binge! Such is the luxury of the home office and the consistent availability of unnatural light and electricity but alas, no editor!

Den’s 2006 Trip Report continued…
4) June 28-July 2: Rwanda-Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Outfitter: Great Lakes Safari via KiliWarrior Expeditions! 5 Mountain Gorilla Nose Prints!

Great Lakes Safaris Ltd
P.O Box 33024 Kampala, Uganda E.A
http://www.safari-uganda.com (I do not have a summary here yet…)

Mukasa Jaynefer (this is the correct spelling!) was my point of contact (POC) with Great Lakes Safaris. I received the utmost in service from Jaynefer who is truly the ideal client contact! She was efficient in every possible way it felt as though she was working in the home office next door and not in Kampala, Uganda! I even called her a few times because she was so fun in her emails and she was ever so lovely to speak with on the telephone. I was sorry that I was not going have the opportunity to meet her in person after my safari as the clients are able to who safari in Uganda!

My safari guide was David Musisi Ssejjombwe who also was most excellent; knowledge, service, driving and very pleasant company! David is from Uganda so in addition to all his Rwanda knowledge I learned a little about his country as an extra bonus!

David’s name means someone born during a tremor or an earthquake. His is of the Muganda Tribe, Clan of the Bird (Pie Wag Tail) and speaks his local Nakisinge language!

Jaynefer, David and Eben have all enticed me to add Uganda to my list of countries to visit someday!

Eben, from KiliWarrior Expeditions, a South African, knew the owners of Great Lakes Safaris and basically set this trip up for me before eventually handing it over to me. Lucky for me!

Accommodations: Gorilla's Nest Hotel - Ruhengeri, I have nothing new to add about this facility that has not been previously stated. It is what it is and it is where it is! I would stay there again.

Highlights:

Susa Group: Awesome! My lungs not so awesome, but I made it! They are the most elusive group in Rwanda so after a very long drive from the Parc Headquarters, our trek starting point was at a very high elevation then we trekked long, fast, hard and even higher! I was surprised that it was as difficult as it was for me, I’ve done my share of mountain biking in Pennsylvania (Yea I know, Jim Thorpe is not high in comparison) and am in pretty good shape for being the “new 30”! I do believe a contributing factor was the previous three weeks in Tanzania where I was just sitting most of the time on safari or touring and because that lovely reddish tan washed off each night I know I was sucking in much dust! It was really dusty off the beaten paths in the Kilimanjaro and Karatu countryside so in comparison the Serengeti did not seem dusty to me but there was a whole lot of sittin’ going on! The trek felt like I was going from 0-60 at high altitude!

Anyway, when we found the Gorilla’s they were ever so kind and were lounging in an area of three different tiers in the jungle with one of them being very open with the sun shining through perfectly for snaps! The two year old twins were adorable, Poppy and her baby were at the top tier which was a true vertical climb to reach (this is where I donated my lens cap to the rainforest), young males gave us a comical show of chasing each other around and around all the jungle growth and also treated us to several wrestling matches! The exciting part for me was when I was moving from one tier to another as I rounded a corner a young female charged me and I was saved in the nick of time by one of the trackers! All caught on video…well the video was still running and you can see the jungle thicket and hear me whisper “you are my hero” to my new best friend the tracker whom I embraced for a very long time! When he went out with his buddies after work that night I’m sure he mentioned how he met a real friendly lady in the jungle today because she wouldn’t let me go for a long time & then she stuck to me like glue!

I was able to take many stills and quite a bit of video. The Parc National des Volcans guide and the trackers made it very easy and would quietly move and rotate individuals around by placing us in really good spots for our photography desires.

I found the story very interesting about why all the trackers in the Rwanda rainforest were Korean!

Golden Monkeys: Our group was small so I was happy I was able to treat David to come along with us as he had not seen the Golden Monkeys before! It was funny because David is quite the dapper dresser and had on spiffy shiny shoes! Luckily, the Monkeys were just inside the Parc border and hiking through the farmland to the Parc had a clear path.

The Monkeys are beautiful, playful and loving and do all the things that Monkeys do giving us a great time and lots of entertainment! David was thrilled and I was able to get a few snaps of him with the Monkeys in the background.

Basket Weaving & Critter Carving: David and I picked up Mbabazi Rosette from the Kingi Guest House who was my “IN” to be able to spend some quality time with some Rwandans and she did not disappoint! I was able to spend some time with a group of women and men where through Rosette we shared many stories about our lives and had many laughs together! I played with a very happy little baby (who blessed me) and they all were fascinated with my photographs from home of my two sons, husband and pets! This generated many questions and many more laughs when Rosette translated my answers! We took lots of photographs and the women put baskets in my hands and the men put critters in my hands as props as they had learned through our time together that I was not very crafty person!

Den

Denbasking

Thanks Leely and Atravelynn!

Leely, yes the very same Ernest that was in the USA over Thanksgiving with Mr. & Mrs. Climbhigh! You can see a picture of Ernest here: http://www.kiliwarriors.com/safari_charity.htm

Also, Leely you might find interesting that SURANZURI KWELI WILBERT is involved and a board member!

Den

Kavey

Den, how lovely to open a thread so warmly thanking folks here for their help. Any small part I may have played, you're absolutely welcome for!

And don't feel bad about the delay - there are many of us here who are quietly hoping no one remembers the incomplete report from 2 years ago... cough cough.

Looking forward to reading more of whatever you have time to share with us!

atravelynn

You had a lovely gorilla visit, but the charge must have been scary for a second or two. Maybe you can add that to the "scariest moment on safari" thread. I loved the "you are my hero" comment captured on video. That's great you were able to see the golden monkeys as well. Did your guide give you an idea on how often the golden monkeys are seen? Almost every attempt? 75%? etc.?

Did I miss something on why all the trackers are Korean? I don't recall that being the case. Maybe I was not observant enough or they were always in the bush tracking. Please fill in those intriguing details.

Leely

Great to read this, Den. Gorilla tracking has been on my shortlist since I first discovered Fodor's. Sounds like you had the perfect experience. And made some friends too!

Denbasking

Kavey:

Thanks I don’t feel so bad about my late report now!

I think when I am finished with all of my reports I will add a list all the websites I gleaned information from in addition to all the posts that I went out and just looked at for my own curiosity such as yours, Sandi’s etc. all very helpful!

Atravelynn:

I guess I really have more to write about in detail from my KiliWarrior safari because the Gorilla scare would be #2, camping in LOBO with the KiliWarriors #1 out of 5 scariest moments from my trip!

>That's great you were able to see the golden monkeys as well. Did your guide give you an idea on how often the golden monkeys are seen? Almost every attempt? 75%? etc.?<

My impression from the guides about this is the statement of the possibility of not connecting with the Gorillas or Golden Monkeys is an extremely rare occurrence (kind of like warnings not to put the plastic bag over your head from your new shirt) because they are in constant communication with the trackers who do not communicate on where to even drive to before they locate the critters to begin your trek. But they are wild animals and I guess it has happened but not to any of the folks I ran came in contact with.

>Did I miss something on why all the trackers are Korean? I don't recall that being the case. Maybe I was not observant enough or they were always in the bush tracking. Please fill in those intriguing details.<

As told to me, this is a $’s for jobs (exclusive contract for so many years) exchange between the two governments for rebuilding after the Genocide. I had only asked because the two days I was in the jungle they were Koreans for sure and I was curious. The good news is they all get along and expressed there is no personal problems working together but the Rwandans feel a tad embarrassed thinking folks might think they can not track in their own jungle and of course they need jobs too! It is all crazy as my guide was from Kenya and has been employed for four year as a Parc National des Volcans guide!

Leely:

Thanks, it was beyond great and I highly recommend going to see the Gorilla’s wherever you can-such a unique experience!

Den

lovetodiscover

Hi Den. You are kind - thanks. Your report is very good. Absolutely no worries. Well, except for the charging Gorilla! Hope your photos worked well.

Very glad you had such a wonderful experience. Will come back to check your report.

Nyamera

Den, thanks for your wonderful report. I really would like to see the gorilla video…

sarahandflo

Thanks, Den! Very interesting report - love the part about the gorilla trek... something we decided against doing in africa but that I hope we will be able to do in the future.

Sarah
www.sarahandflo.com

Denbasking

Rwanda continued…

LAST DAY IN RWANDA

KIGALI MEMORIAL CENTRE:

On the first pass through Kigali to see the Gorilla’s, one of the first things I noticed from quite a distance perched on a hillside overlooking the city, was a new large house (typical of the new neighborhoods in the USA) looking a bit like a palace oasis in contrast to the “modest” surroundings. Just when I was wondering if it was a VIP private home, government facility or maybe someone over improved their home for the neighborhood…David noticed the direction of my eyes and identified it as the MEMORIAL CENTRE and where we would be going on our last day.

I was able to begin to mentally prepare myself for the MEMORIAL CENTRE visit (as best as one can) which was in full view the entire approach while weaving our way through the city streets which seem familiar to me now as images from all the news reports, documentaries and docudrama’s are flashing through my head at a rapid pace.

They have identified over 200 sites of genocide in Rwanda marking where over 800,000 people were murdered. The KIGALI MEMORIAL CENTRE is one of several sites throughout Rwanda where they have dedicated a Genocide Memorial and is the resting place for 250,000 victims.

The Memorial Garden’s mass graves are outside with large concrete crypts filled with coffins where an individual coffin can contain the remains of up to 50 victims. They have one crypt with the top slightly ajar which enables you to see the coffins inside. Also outside there is a Wall of Names, Rose Garden and a World Map where you can see a history of all genocides. It is really beautiful there with incredible vistas where once again you recognize familiar scenes of the city. It is a very quite place much like Arlington National Cemetery et al. except very small and intimate with relatives, victims and survivors setting wreaths on top of the crypts or sitting in one of the places set up for reflection in the Rose Garden.

Free to Enter, donations welcome
Guided or Self guided at your own pace
Interactive with audio-visuals
Education Centre
Some of the Exhibits: 1994 Genocide, Children’s’ Memorial and Memorial Hall exhibition on the history of genocidal violence around the world.

The museum exhibits are set up with very large photographs with text in 3 languages and TV’s throughout where you push a button when you’re ready to see and hear the corresponding information which shows actual survivors and victims telling of their experiences. Obviously what you see and hear is all very graphic relating to various forms of violence.

I will relay more of my museum experience and Rwanda as soon as I have an opportunity write more.

Asante, Den

waynehazle

Den,

Don't feel bad for taking a while with your trip report. I took a few months too.

It has been a great read. I am of course very envious of anyone who got to see the Memorial Centre in Kigali. It was closed the one day I had

And I can't wait to see some of your video on youtube, travelistic, ifilm or wherever.

Denbasking

Rwanda continued…

LAST DAY IN RWANDA

KIGALI MEMORIAL CENTRE, PART TWO:

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

This was very difficult for me; at first glance this exhibit looked very similar albeit a bit starker, to countless exhibits I have set up over the past ten years displaying the artwork of children along with their photograph, their name and THEIR description of their painting.

SAMPLES:

The Sky…A Storm is Coming
By, Shyanne, age 5
Tempera

(Shyanne was from a family of domestic violence)

My House with my family and my Dog
By, Darren, age 8
Watercolor

(Darren, along with the rest of his family was homeless)

I thought these very were sad stories!

This room may have appeared similar but clearly was different.

A room with 14 windows…
14 large photographs of beautiful children…
14 plaques with each child’s short biography including with how they were murdered.

SAMPLES:

Fabrice Cyemezo: Age, 15 months
Favourite food: Rice with milk
Favourite animal: Cat
Enjoyed: Making gestures
Favourite word: Auntie
Killed at: Muhororo Church

Irene Mutoni: Age, 2 Years old
Favourite food: Banana and rice.
First word: Daddy
Favourite Toy: Stuffed dog
Cause of death: Drowned in boiling water

Francine Murengezi Ingabire: Age, 12
Favourite sport: Swimming
Favourite food: Eggs and chips
Favourite drinks: Milk and Fanta.
Best friend: Her elder sister Claudette
Cause of death: Hacked by machete


VICTIMS PHOTO MEMORIAL

This is an ever evolving display of photographs of victims that are brought in by their surviving family members or friends. These looked like original photos from various cameras dating back to the 50’s! Ordinary folks doing ordinary things, washing the car, BBQ’s, school portraits, wedding snaps, baby pictures. I spent a lot of time here looking at each one and righting the ones that had spun around.

I can not help but think that some of the photographs were the only one the family ever had of their loved one and about all the victims who never had their photograph taken.


MEMORIAL HALL EXHIBITION:

This exhibit was on the history of 20th century genocidal violence around the world. This was very depressing because one the concepts of these memorials are to educate to prevent history from repeating itself. Well, "Never Again" All Over Again!

It also made me think about all the people I took photographs of my first two weeks in Tanzania before I went on the KiliWarrior safari. Many of them had never even seen a camera before, had their picture taken and they certainly did not own any photographs. I took hundreds of photos, watched their delighted and embarrassed expressions when I showed them their image in the preview window, wrote down their name and address or that of a contact person and promised them all copies! Phew! This has been a big job and is another reason the report has been on the back burner because it has taken me a very long time to accomplish this but it was very important to me. I am still going to have to deliver by hand some of the photographs to those who live in the back country when I return!

Anyway, I am horrified to think that someday one of the photographs I took of someone could hang one day in a visual memorial display of victims!

SCARY & CURRENT: "Never Again" All Over Again!

MY GUIDE, DAVID:

It was an honor to go through the museum with David, he was very informative and would point things out I would have missed. What I found most moving was that if I did not know otherwise I would have thought this was his first visit as he carefully read everything as if it were new to him. Before arriving at the museum, I asked David, how many times he had been to the museum before and he thinks about six times or so.

Asante, Den

Leely

Word fail me, Den.

Thanks for continuing your report.

Denbasking

Grazie Mille lovetodiscover, Nyamera & www.sarahandflo.com!

Wayne, I am aware and sorry you did not get to go to the museum, believe me; I have left much out even though it is a very small museum!

I love the new thread you started!

I have to say a special thanks to you because I did glean much from your “newsletter report” about your travels that I downloaded from your website that I enjoyed so long ago it seems now!

I am not finding your website at my fingertips at this moment but I hope someone much savvier than me at this hour will post it here for others to enjoy!

Leely: there are no words but I do have many more stories but I do not think I will post them here at this time…

Arrivederci, Den

Denbasking

Author: atravelynn ([email protected])
Date: 01/10/2007, 08:23 pm

Den,

You are not a lousy writer at all. I'd be very interested in seeing your report!
________________________________________

Lynn,

Thanks for your kind words but I would have added to my sentence the art of story telling as well! If I haven’t been fired as a client, I will continue with more details about my trip with a wrap up on Rwanda, details about the KiliWarrior Safari and details about the first part of my trip. And I know this sounds familiar but I am leaving for New York this evening and it will have to wait until I return.

Here is part of the sad scoop about my report and why it was set up this way as you referred to in an earlier post above; I did have an almost finished detailed report complete, details by my standards not like the great writers and storytellers on this forum not long before I started this one. Wouldn’t you know, after I opened my big mouth and promised my husband (he is a little tired of the “A” word-but polite) and others I was about ready to post, JINX, my LEMON DELL LAPTOP is holding it hostage along with many other files!

So, this left me with a commitment that I wanted to follow through on as I was feeling so guilty about not thanking all on the forum and did not feel I could rightly play on the forum without giving back, so I made the lind to my KiliWarrior testimonial which had some information and then I tried to recreate on the fly what I had written - BACKWARDS as this was the freshest in my mind!

Then my reporting tale of woe continued as I got depressed and on my own nerves when I saw a few other reports pop up that were laid out with maps, text and PICS on websites which is my style of preference for reading enjoyment and thought why should I go on…

I was thinking wouldn’t it be nice if there was a FODOR’s TEMPLETE for reports in this format. I think I read that Andy Bigg’s was pushing for improved Fodor software, maybe…

Thanks again Lynn,

Den

atravelynn

Oh no computer problems!

No need for maps, re-enactments, etc. Just a report and pics if you have them.

bat

Den:
You are too hard on yourself. This is a great report. How thoughtful of you to send the pictures.