Vienna in November is a great idea (WillTravel on the scene)
Nov 20th, 2008, 01:26 PM
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Vienna in November is a great idea (WillTravel on the scene)
As I posted before, I decided to go to Vienna after a professional event earlier in the week in Munich. I also gave Salzburg, Regensburg, and Passau a quick run-through, but more about those another time.
I arrived here a little more than 24 hours ago. I caught a taxi from Westbahnhof. I had previously considered public transit, but I had so much stuff, and had acquired more at the event, that I could not imagine it. The taxi fare to Hotel Lindner am Belvedere was 10.10 Euros plus tip.
This is a great hotel. It is 4*, newly constructed, contemporary design, and with a great breakfast buffet. So far I am finding the location, at Renneweg 12, great. I had to first pick up my ticket at Musikverein, and later attend the Martha Argerich-Mischa Maisky concert, and I walked all around and through the Ring, went to Stephansdom and to Shakepeare and Co. I went to Cafe Braunerhof, had a Viennese cafe experience, and emerged unscathed. I had a quick lunch at the Konservatorium lunchroom (cheap and fast). I also visited the Arthur Schonberg Center and saw the Schonberg, Strindberg, and Munch exhibit (I was not aware before that Schonberg and Strindberg were painters, and of the relationship with Munch). The audioguide is pretty good, if a bit jumpy, and the relationships and the paintings are interesting. Perfect for a late autumnal day in Vienna.
The concert featured wonderful playing, with a very conversational style between the two musicians. I had a much better view of Maisky than Argerich, and he was quite a site to see with his white hair flying furiously as he played. Of course the venue is fabulous.
But I had a shock in the second portion. I looked up to the balcony level, and saw a man being carried out by some other men. I could clearly see that he was older (over 60) and was wearing a white dress shirt. So what had happened, I wonder? Did he have a heart attack? The show went on without interruption. I think the same men who had carried the guy out returned to the concert a few minutes later. In fact the door opened and shut a few times at the balcony level, which distracted from the concert a bit. But I suspect most people did not notice.
Given the revered nature of this venue, I was surprised that people engaged in behaviors like turning pages, coughing (I know it cannot be helped sometimes), looking through purses, etc. Not that there was that much - but somehow I expected people here would be more perfect. I would say that if you are not standing, you probably want to dress up a bit (I felt underdressed in typical West Coast business casual).
There were two encores, which I enjoyed very much, but I cannot say what the pieces were.
Vienna is very, very windy. But I am doing fine, as I have long-sleeved shirts, a fleecy sweater, and a warm coat that goes to mid-thigh.
There is a Billa grocery store nearby on Renneweg, where I picked up a few things. Last night, having gotten to my hotel after 8 PM, I decided to look nearby for a restaurant. I am near the famed Gmoa Keller, but I was totally ignored while other people were welcomed in. So I headed back elsewhere, and found the extremely convivial, authentically Viennese (non-posh Viennese) tavern-like place at Renneweg 8. My standard schnitzel order last night with Bohemian beer was very good. I went tonight after the concert, and had gulasch, which was not as good, although the huge bread dumpling was quite a site (bigger than a tennis ball, I would say). I had expected something like a delicate matzo ball, I think.
Vienna is just starting to be lit up with Christmas lights, and it is beautiful.
Typed up quickly here in the hotel lobby on a German keyboard. More later about my German train misadventures (I am fine).
I arrived here a little more than 24 hours ago. I caught a taxi from Westbahnhof. I had previously considered public transit, but I had so much stuff, and had acquired more at the event, that I could not imagine it. The taxi fare to Hotel Lindner am Belvedere was 10.10 Euros plus tip.
This is a great hotel. It is 4*, newly constructed, contemporary design, and with a great breakfast buffet. So far I am finding the location, at Renneweg 12, great. I had to first pick up my ticket at Musikverein, and later attend the Martha Argerich-Mischa Maisky concert, and I walked all around and through the Ring, went to Stephansdom and to Shakepeare and Co. I went to Cafe Braunerhof, had a Viennese cafe experience, and emerged unscathed. I had a quick lunch at the Konservatorium lunchroom (cheap and fast). I also visited the Arthur Schonberg Center and saw the Schonberg, Strindberg, and Munch exhibit (I was not aware before that Schonberg and Strindberg were painters, and of the relationship with Munch). The audioguide is pretty good, if a bit jumpy, and the relationships and the paintings are interesting. Perfect for a late autumnal day in Vienna.
The concert featured wonderful playing, with a very conversational style between the two musicians. I had a much better view of Maisky than Argerich, and he was quite a site to see with his white hair flying furiously as he played. Of course the venue is fabulous.
But I had a shock in the second portion. I looked up to the balcony level, and saw a man being carried out by some other men. I could clearly see that he was older (over 60) and was wearing a white dress shirt. So what had happened, I wonder? Did he have a heart attack? The show went on without interruption. I think the same men who had carried the guy out returned to the concert a few minutes later. In fact the door opened and shut a few times at the balcony level, which distracted from the concert a bit. But I suspect most people did not notice.
Given the revered nature of this venue, I was surprised that people engaged in behaviors like turning pages, coughing (I know it cannot be helped sometimes), looking through purses, etc. Not that there was that much - but somehow I expected people here would be more perfect. I would say that if you are not standing, you probably want to dress up a bit (I felt underdressed in typical West Coast business casual).
There were two encores, which I enjoyed very much, but I cannot say what the pieces were.
Vienna is very, very windy. But I am doing fine, as I have long-sleeved shirts, a fleecy sweater, and a warm coat that goes to mid-thigh.
There is a Billa grocery store nearby on Renneweg, where I picked up a few things. Last night, having gotten to my hotel after 8 PM, I decided to look nearby for a restaurant. I am near the famed Gmoa Keller, but I was totally ignored while other people were welcomed in. So I headed back elsewhere, and found the extremely convivial, authentically Viennese (non-posh Viennese) tavern-like place at Renneweg 8. My standard schnitzel order last night with Bohemian beer was very good. I went tonight after the concert, and had gulasch, which was not as good, although the huge bread dumpling was quite a site (bigger than a tennis ball, I would say). I had expected something like a delicate matzo ball, I think.
Vienna is just starting to be lit up with Christmas lights, and it is beautiful.
Typed up quickly here in the hotel lobby on a German keyboard. More later about my German train misadventures (I am fine).
Nov 20th, 2008, 03:19 PM
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Wonderful. If you're very lucky you'll get a dusting of snow as the Christmas lights go up. Perfect. Try to get a seat at Meinl am Graben to look out the windows at the lights in the snow. Magical.
Nov 21st, 2008, 11:20 AM
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Another great full day.
I let myself sleep in for the first time in ages, and lingered over breakfast, so I did not leave until about 11 AM.
For some reason, I had the days messed up, and thought that there was a Jewish Vienna walking tour at 11:30 AM, starting at Stephanplatz 10. It turns out that is Saturday. No problem, though, as it turned out there was a different walking tour at 1:30 PM on Friday (by Schwedenplatz).
In the interim, I had to figure out what to do. I decided to go to the Jewish Museum. This has a thorough audioguide, and to do justice to it, you probably need 2 hours. The ground floor has the usual assortment of artifacts, and some artwork by the artist Nancy Spero. The third floor has various hologram display of scenes, people, and objects from pre-WWII Vienna. As intended, I think, the holograms are ghostly-like.
Then I walked up to the site of the tour. There were two other German ladies on the tour. The guide gives the commentary in both English and German. As it turns out, this was technically the more specialized tour, but all of us were agreeable to hearing the overview tour instead.
The commentary would take a lot of time to repeat, but it was very interesting. It started from about the 1200s, with the first known Jewish family in Vienna, and continued up to the present with an overview of the current community in Vienna.
We visited the Documentation Archives. They are (or possibly have finished) a project, for all the Jews in Vienna who died in the Shoah, of tracing the date of deportation, the camp the victim was sent to, and the date of death. However, the tour guide said they know there are some who escaped Vienna at some point, but did not necessarily reach safety. That is a separate project. The central synagogue in Vienna survived Kristallnacht (the exterior, but not the interior), because due to some previous emperor's building restrictions, the synagogue is located in the courtyard of an office building. As it turned out, this office building contained the records that so easily allowed all Jews in Vienna to be traced down by the Gestapo. We saw the site of the Gestapo Headquarters, across from which is a memorial statue.
Finally (and I have not stated everything), we saw the memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, which I think Simon Wiesenthal was instrumental to establishing. Again, to describe the meaning would take a long time, but it is worth looking up.
After the tour, I saw a small restaurant called 'Fresh Soup and Salad', which basically lives up to its name.
I should mention that my umbrella had suffered a final collapse against the Vienna winds earlier that day. Luckily, it did not rain during the tour, although it did on my walk into the center. I decided to try to buy another one. But I failed miserably. Diamonds, travel, books, insurance, kitchen supplies - whatever I could want, except umbrellas.
On my quest, I saw a sign for an exhibit, 'A Question of Evidence'.
(Just going to post this now, as I almost lost the post.)
I let myself sleep in for the first time in ages, and lingered over breakfast, so I did not leave until about 11 AM.
For some reason, I had the days messed up, and thought that there was a Jewish Vienna walking tour at 11:30 AM, starting at Stephanplatz 10. It turns out that is Saturday. No problem, though, as it turned out there was a different walking tour at 1:30 PM on Friday (by Schwedenplatz).
In the interim, I had to figure out what to do. I decided to go to the Jewish Museum. This has a thorough audioguide, and to do justice to it, you probably need 2 hours. The ground floor has the usual assortment of artifacts, and some artwork by the artist Nancy Spero. The third floor has various hologram display of scenes, people, and objects from pre-WWII Vienna. As intended, I think, the holograms are ghostly-like.
Then I walked up to the site of the tour. There were two other German ladies on the tour. The guide gives the commentary in both English and German. As it turns out, this was technically the more specialized tour, but all of us were agreeable to hearing the overview tour instead.
The commentary would take a lot of time to repeat, but it was very interesting. It started from about the 1200s, with the first known Jewish family in Vienna, and continued up to the present with an overview of the current community in Vienna.
We visited the Documentation Archives. They are (or possibly have finished) a project, for all the Jews in Vienna who died in the Shoah, of tracing the date of deportation, the camp the victim was sent to, and the date of death. However, the tour guide said they know there are some who escaped Vienna at some point, but did not necessarily reach safety. That is a separate project. The central synagogue in Vienna survived Kristallnacht (the exterior, but not the interior), because due to some previous emperor's building restrictions, the synagogue is located in the courtyard of an office building. As it turned out, this office building contained the records that so easily allowed all Jews in Vienna to be traced down by the Gestapo. We saw the site of the Gestapo Headquarters, across from which is a memorial statue.
Finally (and I have not stated everything), we saw the memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, which I think Simon Wiesenthal was instrumental to establishing. Again, to describe the meaning would take a long time, but it is worth looking up.
After the tour, I saw a small restaurant called 'Fresh Soup and Salad', which basically lives up to its name.
I should mention that my umbrella had suffered a final collapse against the Vienna winds earlier that day. Luckily, it did not rain during the tour, although it did on my walk into the center. I decided to try to buy another one. But I failed miserably. Diamonds, travel, books, insurance, kitchen supplies - whatever I could want, except umbrellas.
On my quest, I saw a sign for an exhibit, 'A Question of Evidence'.
(Just going to post this now, as I almost lost the post.)
Nov 21st, 2008, 11:32 AM
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'A Question of Evidence' features current work by artists in Burma and Tibet.
Mostly by accident, I ended up at the Free Tibet center in this building. I was quite wet, so decided to watch one of the videos. A Tibetan student brought me a couple cups of tea. So far as I know, this was a good documentary about what has happened in Tibet since March.
I then headed into the exhibition proper, and happened upon an English-language guided tour discussing the artists and their work. Some is performance art, I think, or can be classified as such in retrospect. For example, one Burmese bookseller was sent to prison because he had ripped the first page (with compulsory military-dictator slogans) out of a number of books. One Tibetan artist (unfortunately I do not know his name) is exiled in London now, after a previous career where he was more or less in service of the Chinese government. Politics, human rights, or art - it was sort of a combination of them all.
So far not a lighthearted day, but very interesting!
I looked around a bit more for an umbrella and failed. I decided to have dinner at NordSee (a little soon after my late lunch, but I was still hungry). I had salmon, broccoli, potatoes, served with a mushroom sauce. Pretty simple, but quite good (9.95 for this special).
I then had to make a decision between going to see an 1892 farce at the English Theater, or going to the Christmas Markets. The rain had abated at this point. I chose the Christmas Markets, and went to the one at Rathausplatz. Wow - Rathausplatz looks amazing lit up at night!
I loved the Christmas Market. I had been told this was the most authentically Viennese one. Lots of lights, decorations in the trees, great food and drink options, a children's train, different cute displays with dummy figures - sort of like a fair with a Christmas theme.
I had a Wildkirsch Punsche. Quite nice. I had Gluwein in Salzburg a few days ago, and did not see a need to try it again.
I was going to take the U-Bahn back (so far have not stepped on public transit in Vienna, but have walked everywhere), but was lured by the taxis. As soon I was in the taxi, it started raining again! So good choice.
There is some sort of Viennese folk music thing going on in the restaurant at this hotel, which sounds great - I think I'll check it out and then go to bed.
Mostly by accident, I ended up at the Free Tibet center in this building. I was quite wet, so decided to watch one of the videos. A Tibetan student brought me a couple cups of tea. So far as I know, this was a good documentary about what has happened in Tibet since March.
I then headed into the exhibition proper, and happened upon an English-language guided tour discussing the artists and their work. Some is performance art, I think, or can be classified as such in retrospect. For example, one Burmese bookseller was sent to prison because he had ripped the first page (with compulsory military-dictator slogans) out of a number of books. One Tibetan artist (unfortunately I do not know his name) is exiled in London now, after a previous career where he was more or less in service of the Chinese government. Politics, human rights, or art - it was sort of a combination of them all.
So far not a lighthearted day, but very interesting!
I looked around a bit more for an umbrella and failed. I decided to have dinner at NordSee (a little soon after my late lunch, but I was still hungry). I had salmon, broccoli, potatoes, served with a mushroom sauce. Pretty simple, but quite good (9.95 for this special).
I then had to make a decision between going to see an 1892 farce at the English Theater, or going to the Christmas Markets. The rain had abated at this point. I chose the Christmas Markets, and went to the one at Rathausplatz. Wow - Rathausplatz looks amazing lit up at night!
I loved the Christmas Market. I had been told this was the most authentically Viennese one. Lots of lights, decorations in the trees, great food and drink options, a children's train, different cute displays with dummy figures - sort of like a fair with a Christmas theme.
I had a Wildkirsch Punsche. Quite nice. I had Gluwein in Salzburg a few days ago, and did not see a need to try it again.
I was going to take the U-Bahn back (so far have not stepped on public transit in Vienna, but have walked everywhere), but was lured by the taxis. As soon I was in the taxi, it started raining again! So good choice.
There is some sort of Viennese folk music thing going on in the restaurant at this hotel, which sounds great - I think I'll check it out and then go to bed.
Nov 21st, 2008, 12:10 PM
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WillTravel:
I enjoy following your posts and commentaries - love this one on Vienna. More, please!
You were very kind to give advice regarding time on my own in Berlin last November prior to joining a tour group and I really appreciated it!
Our group got to see the start of the Christmas decorations being installed upon our arrival in Vienna, and looked to be enchanting.
Eve
I enjoy following your posts and commentaries - love this one on Vienna. More, please!
You were very kind to give advice regarding time on my own in Berlin last November prior to joining a tour group and I really appreciated it!
Our group got to see the start of the Christmas decorations being installed upon our arrival in Vienna, and looked to be enchanting.
Eve
Nov 21st, 2008, 12:46 PM
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Thanks for the report WT. I'm looking forward to your concert review.
If the punch is the same that I had in Vienna it is made with wild berries. Lots of berries in the cup and it carries a slow kick.
If the punch is the same that I had in Vienna it is made with wild berries. Lots of berries in the cup and it carries a slow kick.
Nov 22nd, 2008, 01:12 PM
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Thanks for all your kind comments.
I had another great day in Vienna, the busiest of the lot. But I have an early flight to catch, and it is late, so I must pack. I will get a brief revisit to Copenhagen tomorrow before heading home.
Although I am sometimes bad at finishing trip reports, I will finish this one!
I had another great day in Vienna, the busiest of the lot. But I have an early flight to catch, and it is late, so I must pack. I will get a brief revisit to Copenhagen tomorrow before heading home.
Although I am sometimes bad at finishing trip reports, I will finish this one!
Nov 23rd, 2008, 04:42 PM
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Flight from Vienna to Copenhagen, stopover and brief visit of Copenhagen, flight from CPH-SEA all complete. Posting by wireless on the bus back from the Seattle airport to Vancouver. But my charge is about to run out, so more later!
Nov 23rd, 2008, 11:34 PM
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yk, this defunct umbrella was a cheapie that I threw into my suitcase at the last minute. Of course I have to keep a ready supply of umbrellas in Vancouver in the winter.
For my last full day in Vienna, Nov. 22:
My friend came from the Netherlands for a brief visit to Vienna. She didn't stay at the same place as me, as I had already prepaid for my great hotel, and she couldn't get the same deal. But she was quite happy with the Hotel Gabriel, which is a reasonable 3* hotel in the 3rd district, although not as central as mine.
We met up at 10 AM at Lower Belvedere. We walked around the grounds, but there were large tour groups, and we did not feel like going inside. It was gloriously sunny, and we felt like walking to the center.
So we continued onwards, and I pointed out Karlskirche, although I did not know its name at the time. We looked at the Latin on the outside, and tried to puzzle it out. Then we saw some German, I think, and of course my friend was quite able to decipher that.
We decided it was worth investigating. The admission is 6 Euros, and you get a free audioguide that is quite good.
Wow - what a beautiful Baroque church. I loved all the marble. There are frescoes on the ceiling that are being restored. Thus, you can take a lift partway up, and then about 8 flights of stairs to the top. The frescoes are then so close, you can practically touch them. Unlike many of these churches, these stairs are quite comfortable to ascend, as they are specially built for the restoration.
If you go, look for the man with a big nose, who looks so true to life (he must have been someone notable), and the very large, muscular baby.
Here's a good reference site:
http://traveldk.com/vienna/dk/highlight/karlskirche
We proceeded onwards, and took a look at the Staatsopera. My friend was considering getting a standing ticket. Some man outside told us that it was all sold out, but he could get us tickets (of course, a scalper). In any event, we took a look at the Opera building and proceeded onwards.
My friend commented on how everytime you looked around, there was a beautiful building. I have to agree. Vienna is just packed with extraordinary architecture.
We went to Stephansdom, and went inside. But there was a mass about to start, so we couldn't take a look around. I had looked around briefly earlier in the week. But after Karlskirche, this was a bit of a letdown really. It's interesting to see how they are cleaning the outside, which is black with grime, and how it's becoming a beautiful pale color.
We went walking again, in no particular direction, and decided to stop for lunch. My friend saw Fresh Soup & Salad and suggested we go there, not realizing I had been there yesterday. But I was fine with visiting again, and it's certainly an economical option, compared to some. We chatted for a while, and could see out the window that snow was starting to fall.
Our next stop, we decided, would be the Albertina. But when we got to the Albertina, it had an amazingly long lineup, apparently for Vincent Van Gogh. Of course we have both seen his work a lot in Amsterdam.
So we quickly revised plans and went to the Leopold Museum. On the way, we passed the Hofburg Palace, and spent some time there looking around. It was getting colder and snowier by the moment. I was dressed warmly, but my friend had not realized how cold Vienna was likely to get.
We got to Leopold, and noted how nice a complex the whole MuseumsQuartier is. There are lots of activities for children also. We each got an admission (I think it was less than 7 Euros), got an audioguide (3 Euros), and stored our coats in the cloakroom (somewhere around 1 Euro).
Our focus turned out to be the Egon Schiele exhibition. I got so much more from it having my friend with me, as she pointed out stuff I hadn't noticed (I hoped I did also for her). It's amazing to think how much high-quality work Schiele produced, given his untimely death at 28. Schiele is a protegé of Klimt. We saw both the main floor paintings, and the bottom floor with sketches. We also saw some of the floor which had "between the wars" paintings, but these were not so memorable as Schiele's works.
Wikipedia on Schiele:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egon_Schiele
We took a break partway through at the Cafe Leopold. I hadn't eaten that much at lunch, so I had a cappucino and French onion soup. We could see children throwing snowballs in the courtyard of the museum.
After Leopold, we walked over to the Christmas market in front of Rathusplatz (same as I had visited the day before). We got some of the same wild cherry punch, as well as some candied almonds (quite tasty). We wandered around for a while, and then I had to head to my Goran Bregovic concert (my friend hadn't gotten a ticket). So we decided to take a taxi to Theater an der Wien (5.50 Euros plus tip), and then have dinner nearby. Then my friend and I would take our leave.
We had a nice dinner at a Viennese place - possibly a bit overpriced. But again, I just had more of a snack, as my timing wasn't quite right to have a full dinner.
Then it was 7 PM, and Theater an der Wien was just down the street. I hope I can get back to Europe next year, maybe even for the same event around the same time.
The Goran Bregovic concert was wonderful. I knew nothing about him, but was just intrigued by the descriptions. His orchestra has great technique and showmanship, and his singers and choir are very good too.
As an example of the showmanship, the man who seems to have the role of concertmaster/conductor plays a large drum. He wore a black wifebeater, black pants, had a shaved head with dreadlocks, and tattoos on his arms. Goran Bregovic was periodically glancing at a fairly new-model Apple computer that was set up on stage next to him. (It would be an excellent commercial for Apple.) Some of the orchestra were wearing national costumes, and some regular clothes. It's very important to Bregovic to have a multicultural, multi-religious group. He said something like, "It's difficult to come together with politics or religion, but with music it is easy." The music was in various languages, but Bregovic only spoke to us in English. He said he didn't know German. (Given that he is clearly multilingual, I wonder if this might at all be related to the Holocaust and the Romany people. Not that he said this, but I have a hard time thinking he couldn't speak German if he wanted to do so.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goran_Bregovi%C4%87
http://www.goranbregovic.co.yu/
I wanted to get cash for my taxi early Sunday morning, and the first bank I had tried (before dinner) had an out of order sign. Next to it, there was another bank with an internal ATM, which other people were using, but my card was refused. So after the concert, I headed towards the Ring, and found another out of order sign. Finally at about the 5th bank, I was able to withdraw the cash.
I was walking this whole time, and walked back towards my hotel. I decided I'd have something more to eat, and went to the Salm Braue place I mentioned earlier. I chose the Appetizer platter for 9.20 Euros. This turned out to be a huge serving of salmon, liverpaste, venison, and salad. I had a large piece of Schwarzbrot (black bread) for another 0.70. As I mentioned, I think this is a good, authentic Viennese place.
Back to my hotel. With all the bank stuff and then dinner and the whole day), I had done tons of walking. But now it was time to pack. I packed up, showered (because I was getting up so early), and tried to go to sleep. Then I started to worry if my passport was really in my bag. So I had to check. With one thing or another, I doubt I got 3 hours sleep, before I got up at 4:30 AM, and then headed down to get my taxi at 5 AM.
Taxi fare was 36.xx (I had been told 38 by the front desk, and to tip 2 Euros). So I just gave him 40 Euros anyway.
Check-in was pretty standard. There's a Starbucks right by the gate, and I had my most expensive cappucino ever (this bar keeps getting raised - previously it had been the Holiday Inn Arial near Heathrow). I paid 4.20 for a tall cappucino with an extra shot.
More later. I am going to work in about 8 hours, so should probably try to sleep.
For my last full day in Vienna, Nov. 22:
My friend came from the Netherlands for a brief visit to Vienna. She didn't stay at the same place as me, as I had already prepaid for my great hotel, and she couldn't get the same deal. But she was quite happy with the Hotel Gabriel, which is a reasonable 3* hotel in the 3rd district, although not as central as mine.
We met up at 10 AM at Lower Belvedere. We walked around the grounds, but there were large tour groups, and we did not feel like going inside. It was gloriously sunny, and we felt like walking to the center.
So we continued onwards, and I pointed out Karlskirche, although I did not know its name at the time. We looked at the Latin on the outside, and tried to puzzle it out. Then we saw some German, I think, and of course my friend was quite able to decipher that.
We decided it was worth investigating. The admission is 6 Euros, and you get a free audioguide that is quite good.
Wow - what a beautiful Baroque church. I loved all the marble. There are frescoes on the ceiling that are being restored. Thus, you can take a lift partway up, and then about 8 flights of stairs to the top. The frescoes are then so close, you can practically touch them. Unlike many of these churches, these stairs are quite comfortable to ascend, as they are specially built for the restoration.
If you go, look for the man with a big nose, who looks so true to life (he must have been someone notable), and the very large, muscular baby.
Here's a good reference site:
http://traveldk.com/vienna/dk/highlight/karlskirche
We proceeded onwards, and took a look at the Staatsopera. My friend was considering getting a standing ticket. Some man outside told us that it was all sold out, but he could get us tickets (of course, a scalper). In any event, we took a look at the Opera building and proceeded onwards.
My friend commented on how everytime you looked around, there was a beautiful building. I have to agree. Vienna is just packed with extraordinary architecture.
We went to Stephansdom, and went inside. But there was a mass about to start, so we couldn't take a look around. I had looked around briefly earlier in the week. But after Karlskirche, this was a bit of a letdown really. It's interesting to see how they are cleaning the outside, which is black with grime, and how it's becoming a beautiful pale color.
We went walking again, in no particular direction, and decided to stop for lunch. My friend saw Fresh Soup & Salad and suggested we go there, not realizing I had been there yesterday. But I was fine with visiting again, and it's certainly an economical option, compared to some. We chatted for a while, and could see out the window that snow was starting to fall.
Our next stop, we decided, would be the Albertina. But when we got to the Albertina, it had an amazingly long lineup, apparently for Vincent Van Gogh. Of course we have both seen his work a lot in Amsterdam.
So we quickly revised plans and went to the Leopold Museum. On the way, we passed the Hofburg Palace, and spent some time there looking around. It was getting colder and snowier by the moment. I was dressed warmly, but my friend had not realized how cold Vienna was likely to get.
We got to Leopold, and noted how nice a complex the whole MuseumsQuartier is. There are lots of activities for children also. We each got an admission (I think it was less than 7 Euros), got an audioguide (3 Euros), and stored our coats in the cloakroom (somewhere around 1 Euro).
Our focus turned out to be the Egon Schiele exhibition. I got so much more from it having my friend with me, as she pointed out stuff I hadn't noticed (I hoped I did also for her). It's amazing to think how much high-quality work Schiele produced, given his untimely death at 28. Schiele is a protegé of Klimt. We saw both the main floor paintings, and the bottom floor with sketches. We also saw some of the floor which had "between the wars" paintings, but these were not so memorable as Schiele's works.
Wikipedia on Schiele:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egon_Schiele
We took a break partway through at the Cafe Leopold. I hadn't eaten that much at lunch, so I had a cappucino and French onion soup. We could see children throwing snowballs in the courtyard of the museum.
After Leopold, we walked over to the Christmas market in front of Rathusplatz (same as I had visited the day before). We got some of the same wild cherry punch, as well as some candied almonds (quite tasty). We wandered around for a while, and then I had to head to my Goran Bregovic concert (my friend hadn't gotten a ticket). So we decided to take a taxi to Theater an der Wien (5.50 Euros plus tip), and then have dinner nearby. Then my friend and I would take our leave.
We had a nice dinner at a Viennese place - possibly a bit overpriced. But again, I just had more of a snack, as my timing wasn't quite right to have a full dinner.
Then it was 7 PM, and Theater an der Wien was just down the street. I hope I can get back to Europe next year, maybe even for the same event around the same time.
The Goran Bregovic concert was wonderful. I knew nothing about him, but was just intrigued by the descriptions. His orchestra has great technique and showmanship, and his singers and choir are very good too.
As an example of the showmanship, the man who seems to have the role of concertmaster/conductor plays a large drum. He wore a black wifebeater, black pants, had a shaved head with dreadlocks, and tattoos on his arms. Goran Bregovic was periodically glancing at a fairly new-model Apple computer that was set up on stage next to him. (It would be an excellent commercial for Apple.) Some of the orchestra were wearing national costumes, and some regular clothes. It's very important to Bregovic to have a multicultural, multi-religious group. He said something like, "It's difficult to come together with politics or religion, but with music it is easy." The music was in various languages, but Bregovic only spoke to us in English. He said he didn't know German. (Given that he is clearly multilingual, I wonder if this might at all be related to the Holocaust and the Romany people. Not that he said this, but I have a hard time thinking he couldn't speak German if he wanted to do so.)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goran_Bregovi%C4%87
http://www.goranbregovic.co.yu/
I wanted to get cash for my taxi early Sunday morning, and the first bank I had tried (before dinner) had an out of order sign. Next to it, there was another bank with an internal ATM, which other people were using, but my card was refused. So after the concert, I headed towards the Ring, and found another out of order sign. Finally at about the 5th bank, I was able to withdraw the cash.
I was walking this whole time, and walked back towards my hotel. I decided I'd have something more to eat, and went to the Salm Braue place I mentioned earlier. I chose the Appetizer platter for 9.20 Euros. This turned out to be a huge serving of salmon, liverpaste, venison, and salad. I had a large piece of Schwarzbrot (black bread) for another 0.70. As I mentioned, I think this is a good, authentic Viennese place.
Back to my hotel. With all the bank stuff and then dinner and the whole day), I had done tons of walking. But now it was time to pack. I packed up, showered (because I was getting up so early), and tried to go to sleep. Then I started to worry if my passport was really in my bag. So I had to check. With one thing or another, I doubt I got 3 hours sleep, before I got up at 4:30 AM, and then headed down to get my taxi at 5 AM.
Taxi fare was 36.xx (I had been told 38 by the front desk, and to tip 2 Euros). So I just gave him 40 Euros anyway.
Check-in was pretty standard. There's a Starbucks right by the gate, and I had my most expensive cappucino ever (this bar keeps getting raised - previously it had been the Holiday Inn Arial near Heathrow). I paid 4.20 for a tall cappucino with an extra shot.
More later. I am going to work in about 8 hours, so should probably try to sleep.
