Rickmav – Christmas in England

Old Mar 10th, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Rickmav – Christmas in England

We have been on a four-month holiday in England and Italy and the last part of our wonderful adventure is celebrating Christmas in England.

(For our other trip reports:

Overview & Yorkshire
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34937079

Suffolk:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34941319

Sussex and Kent http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34943207

London:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34946152

Italy:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34947512)

I love Christmas, but over the years, with much upset and tension in my extended family, my husband Rick and I have lost the Christmas spirit. Our seven-week stay in a cottage in Wilmcote just outside Stratford on Avon (www.peartreecot.co.uk/#acanthus), and then a week in a cottage at Stanton St. John, just outside Oxford, (www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/oxford/13756), gives that spirit back to us.

I can't think of a better place to stay than near Stratford (www.stratford-upon-avon.co.uk/) at Christmas. The city takes the season very seriously – in a fun way – and there are lots of things to see and do. And the lights are spectacular! (Far better than Oxford's and, it's said, a rival to London's.) And our cottage near Oxford, complete with decorated Christmas tree, is perfect - with a thatched roof, wood-burning fireplace and a main bedroom suite that takes up the entire second floor.

I won't bore you with what we did every day during the eight weeks we spent in England, from early November to December 30, 2006. But I'll highlight the places we visited, or the things we saw, that may inspire and inform your own plans for a Christmas in England. I'll provide as many website addresses as I can.

We arrive in England, from a three-week stay in Italy, on a foggy, grey day that is such a contrast to the sunshine we left in Florence. But it is England, after all, and it is November. And for some strange reason it gets us in the Christmas spirit right away. There's a slight chill in the air, which forces us to bring out the mitts I packed before we left Canada and we layer up with sweaters and scarves.

Unexpectedly, we have a difficult time getting back into England. The passport control officer at Stansted asks us a million questions about the length of time we are staying in England, exactly where we are staying and have stayed previously (fortunately, I have a print out of every place with contact names, phone numbers and email addresses). She also asks how we can afford such a trip, what we are living on (we have to show our remaining travellers cheques and give her the name of a bank contact in Canada – luckily, I have brought business cards from the two banks we deal with).

The questions continue: Do we have return tickets, do we have relatives living here, what kind of health are we in, what happens if one of us gets ill (I show her a copy of the health insurance we purchased), etc., etc.. It's all a bit unsettling, but fortunately I have everything she asks for. If anyone reading this is planning a longer stay in Britain, I'd recommend having the same kind of information, easily at hand. (Sometimes, being anal-retentive does pay off!). Rick is very impressed with my record keeping, he had no idea how much work I had done to ensure that all the 'paperwork' kind of stuff was in order before we left. Always nice, after 30 years, to still amaze your husband!

The officer finally lets us go (whew!) and we pick up our rental car, a lavender-coloured Ford Fiesta. It looks like a big, purple grape.

We are staying the first night in England at The Falkland Arms in Great Tew (www.falklandarms.org.uk/), 16 miles north of Oxford, seven miles from Chipping Norton and 10 miles from Banbury. We've visited the pub many times over the past 25 years, but have never stayed the night. Bed and breakfast costs us 85 pounds.

According to the pub's website, until the middle of the 19th c., the Falklands Arms was called the Horse & Groom. It name was changed in honour of Lucius Cary, 2nd Viscount Falkland, whose family owned the Great Tew Estate during Queen Elizabeth's time. It was the 6th Lord Falkland who gave his name to the islands off Argentina.

The pub is supposed to be haunted by Lord Falkland's ghost who roams the pub at night. At one time, a gallon of ale was offered to anyone who was brave enough to spend the night there. Not great news on a foggy, grey day when it's easy to imagine the wispy shape of Lord Falkland waiting to make off with your liver – or whatever it is that English ghosts come after. We are told, however, that the offer has been withdrawn – I don't imagine it could have been good for business. (Or maybe it would have!).

Because our Ryanair flight is late arriving from Pisa, and the pub is closed from 2:30-6:30 p.m., we have something light to eat in Chipping Norton, and then get some supplies. By the time we head to Great Tew, it is difficult to see the road and if we hadn't known where to turn off, I think we might still be driving around the back roads of Oxfordshire.

It only adds to the drama when we arrive to find everything at the pub in darkness. It's a bit before 6:30 p.m. and we are discussing what door we should knock on when a car pulls up behind us. And then another. Suddenly, a group of people appear from a narrow, side street – morphing out of the fog. Rick and I look at each other – where can they possibly be going, the pub is closed. They walk right up to the pub door, open it, and go inside. And still, everything is dark. Were they human beings or.....

Just as we are starting to freak out, someone inside opens up the shutters (which is why we couldn't see any lights) and illumination spills out into the night.

Our room is very cozy (www.falklandarms.org.uk/room1.html). The bed is comfortable and we have an ensuite bathroom and a small TV. We get settled in and then go down to the pub for dinner and a pint. Luckily, we have booked a table, because the dining room only sits 12 people. I have the chicken breast with bacon and mushrooms in a blue cheese sauce – scrumptious; and Rick has lamb with rosemary and garlic served with mashed potatoes. We are absolutely stuffed and decide to venture out for a small walk. We keep close to the brick walls and hedges and hold tight to each other, giggling nervously when a shifting blob of fog starts looking ominous.

Although the flight from Pisa was only 2½ hours, we have a sort of jeg-laggy feeling, so after our walk we head back to our room, instead of joining the ghost-drinkers in the pub. I think our disjointed feeling has more to do with the contrast between Italy and England - the damp chill in the air, hearing English everywhere again, driving on the wrong side of the road and drinking ale instead of wine. It almost feels as if we have been asleep and dreamed of Italy - and now we are awake and in England.

The next day, after a hearty breakfast, we head off for our cottage in Wilmcote. We both slept well and are surprised at how quiet the B&B is, even though the rooms are not over the pub. I keep forgetting, each time I am away, how small everything is in England. It's amazing how they can cram everything you might need in a hotel room into, basically, a large closet.

On our drive north to Warwickshire, we can't believe how green things are. In Canada, if the fields aren't covered with snow, they're the mustardy-brown colour of dead grass. In England, everything is an intense green, brown, red, or blue.

We stop in Stratford to cash some traveller's cheques at the Lloyd's Bank (where there is no charge), and many of the store windows are already decorated for Christmas. I know many on this board advise against travellers cheques, but because we are away from home for so long and often need a significant amount of cash, at one time, for our accommodation, the cheques work well for us. We use the ATMs for our spending money.

On the way into Stratford, we see something that captures the essence of Christmas in England for me. A large, metal Christmas tree is in the middle of a roundabout, made up of horizontal, concentric circles. The circles are filled with green flower pots full of pansies! From a distance, the green pots look like a fir tree and the gaily-coloured pansies, like decorations.

While we are in Stratford, we stop at the local library (on Henley Street) to use the Internet. The helpful librarian tells us that we can get a temporary library card (I just love libraries). This is great, it means we can not only pre-book Internet time, we'll have a ready supply of reading material.

We are fascinated to discover that the timber-framed building that houses the Stratford Library was once a row of 16th c. cottages, extensively renovated by American millionaire and philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie, over 100 years ago and donated to the Stratford Library. He was a great believer in free public libraries. It was Carnegie who said (one of my favourite quotes), "There is not such a cradle of democracy upon the earth as the Free Public Library; this republic of letters, where neither rank, office, nor wealth receives the slightest consideration." Amen.

We are welcomed to our two-bedroomed cottage in Wilmcote by Margaret and Ted Mander. (Wilmcote is where Mary Arden's House is located, she was Shakespeare's mom.) Margaret and Ted are the loveliest people. They used to run Peartree B&B but retired in February of 2007. They own two self-catering cottages; we are in the ground floor flat, with a double and twin bedroom, two bathrooms, sitting room and kitchen. We are able to use Margaret's washer and dryer (industrial strength), in a little room around the corner, all our heat is included (an important consideration in winter), and the place is full of light and overlooks beautiful gardens. And the cost – only 150 pounds a week – their off-season rate.

Wilmcote is quite small, but there is a local shop, which is open into the evening, and they bring in fresh bread – which we buy – every morning. The village has a train station and its a only few minutes ride into Stratford. (You buy your tickets after you get on, from the conductor, who often doesn't even get to you before the train has arrived in Stratford.) Because of the popularity of Mary Arden's House (www.shakespeare.org.uk/content/view/361/361/), one of the Shakespeare Properties, there are also frequent buses that go in and out of Stratford. From Stratford, you can get a bus to Tesco, the large supermarket. So, although a car is handy, you could certainly stay here without one.

The next morning, which is clear and gorgeous, we drive to Evesham (www.evesham.uk.com/). It's a busy, market town and at this time of year, there are few tourists. We return a couple of times as we get into the Christmas shopping mood because of the wide variety of stores and, particularly, the amazing amount of charity shops. There's even a Dollar Store, which is a great place to find stocking stuffers. From a historical point of view, Evesham has a wealth of 15-17th c. buildings, is situated along a pretty stretch of the River Avon, and we never have trouble finding a parking spot. Plus, there are frequent buses from Stratford.

The pedestrian area in the middle of all the shops is criss-crossed with Christmas lights and there are some windows with Christmas displays. It's a couple of weeks before we really notice any Christmas advertising on television, however.

We have lunch at the Amber Cafe and Bar – it catches our eye because Amber is our granddaughter's name (www.club-innuendo.co.uk/amber/index.html). It's an energetic, light-filled, roomy place and we return here whenever we come to Evesham. The crowd is diverse – everyone from teenagers, in uniforms, on their lunch break to matronly types in pearls. We can recommend the penne infused with pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese (for me) and steak sandwich with chips (for Rick). It's also very reasonable – 10 pounds for the two of us with soft drinks. And for those who like to dance, it turns into a club (Innuendo) in the evening.

The Abbey Park, along the river, is also a great place to have an al fresco picnic, there are lots of bakeries in town where you can pick up the fixings.

One of our best finds, at the Oxfam charity shop, is a stack of second-hand CDs/DVDs that come free with the Sunday newspapers. All the charity shop asks is that you make a reasonable donation and you can take as many as you want. We stock up on movies to watch in our cottage and some Christmas CDs.

After Evesham, we stop at Broadway. You can tell that serious money lives here. The Lyggon Arms, much loved by Fodorites, looks formidable and expensive. We take a gander at the menu as we pass by – closely watched by the doorman – and notice that it costs 16 pounds for a Caesar salad – that's $32 Cdn. Must be some Caesar salad.

We walk up one side of the High Street and down the other, window-shopping and enjoying the rich, fall colours. Lots of tweed skirts and twin-sets in the women's clothing stores, an interesting art gallery, and the Cotswold Trading Company full of gift possibilities and housewares.

We stop at Tesco, on the edge of Stratford, on our way home and load up with provisions. I buy the two English gossip magazines, 'Hello' and 'Okay', and they are both full of the soon-to-be announced engagement of Prince William and Kate Middleton. They are predicting it will be announced in February (that's obviously wrong) and that there will be a wedding in the summer. She's attractive in a healthy, English way but I can't say I'm that impressed with her. She's 24 and, until recently, has never had a job, she seems to have done nothing worthwhile except date William and seems to be always shopping. Maybe after the complicated life he's had thus far, William wants someone 'simpler'. There's also a lot of stuff about the Palace staff planning Charles's coronation (!), and, apparently, Charles is adamant that Camilla will be Queen.

We each buy a Remembrance Day poppy from a veteran at the entrance to Tesco (I always cry when I see veterans, not sure why). But I have a devil of a time pinning mine on. I poke myself at least twenty times before I get it to stay put, although it remains crooked until I finally take it off, days later.

Our landlords, Margaret and Ted, who are both in their 70s, are doing fall clean-up in the garden when we return to the cottage. They are planting tulips out of this huge sack; it would take me two years to plant that many bulbs. And they are both dressed as if they are expecting company. So civilized.

On the news tonight, the hot stories are Rumsfeld resigning and Britney Spears divorcing K-Fed. Uh-huh.

Next...Part II – Morse and The Two of Us, Ye Olde Reinder Inn and Carry on Camping


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Old Mar 10th, 2007, 03:26 PM
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Oh - I can't wait to read the rest Have been looking forward for the next installment. Stanton St John sure brings back memories for me!! For about a year I lived in the tiny village of Holton near Wheatley and then for about 4 years in Merton between Islip and Bicester. I've probably driven through Stanton St John a thousand times or more. What a gorgeous cottage.

And probably eaten at the Falkland Arms a dozen times.

(just one teensy thing "American millionaire and philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie" - He did make his fortune in the States - but he was born in Dunfermline and was a Scot through and through. He left for America when he was a teenager)
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Old Mar 10th, 2007, 05:03 PM
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rickmav - Oh good came home to find that you have begun 'Christmas in England'.

I have always been able to purchase Advent calendars for my little grandsons that gives you a chocolate treat, hidden behind the flap on the calendar. This past October I searched high and low but could only find cartoon character Advent calendars that had the chocolate treats.
I was so disappointed.

I grew up in England (now live in the States) and the first time I returned home I also was struck by how small everything is. The funny thing is that I didn't remember it that way at all. Other expats have told me that they had the same reaction.

Thanks for the websites. You are in some lovely digs.

Sandy
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Old Mar 11th, 2007, 03:20 AM
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Oh, this is good! Can't wait for the next installments!

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Old Mar 11th, 2007, 10:52 AM
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Hi janisj. Is there anywhere in England you haven't been or lived? We loved Stanton St John and the cottage was absolutely scrumptious. It was very expensive, but totally worth it. And it was so quiet there. The only thing we would hear is the 'clip, clop, clip, clop' as someone passed by on a horse. Did you ever have a drink at 'The Star'? And Andrew Carnegie - I think I knew he was a Scot, I'm getting old and my memory is failing. But I do think when you walk into the Stratford Library, the dedication plaque says "American philanthropist, etc." I could be wrong - and frequently am. Thanks for your support.

Happy Sunday SandyBrit. Glad you found me. We didn't buy an advent calendar when we were in England, although saw them in the shops. How many grandsons do you have?

optimystic - Thanks for your note. Will hopefully have the next instalment this afternoon.



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Old Mar 11th, 2007, 11:30 AM
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Part II – Morse and The Two of Us, Ye Olde Reindeer Inn and Carry on Camping

When we go into Stratford the next day, the town crews are putting up the Christmas decorations in the downtown core and they are impressive – even unlit. The official 'turning on of the lights' takes place in a couple of weeks and we are definitely going to be there. They have a big gathering outside the Town Hall, with Christmas carolling and a few speeches from local dignitaries. (For more information on Christmas in Stratford see: www.christmasinstratford.com/. For information on Christmas happenings in other parts of Warwickshire - http://www.warwickshire.gov.uk/Web/c...257206003E4568.)

The most intriguing location where work is going on is the roundabout at the top of Bridge Street. It looks like an upside down ice-cream cone (I still have gelato on my mind!), but made out of thousands of strings of lights. And it's huge. Rick says he can't wait to see that baby shine.

Take out our first batch of books from the library and I'm tickled that I've found a book written by Sheila Hancock on her life with John Shaw called, 'The Two of Us'. John Thaw was the wonderful actor who played one of my favourite TV detectives, Inspector Morse of the Thames Valley Police. Hancock is the consummate English comedienne – the kind of person whose face you immediately recognize, but you have trouble remembering her name. I read a little of the book in the car and know that I am really going to enjoy it.

Part of her dedication, to her husband, in the front part of the book reads:

"It matters that you have been brave when retreat would have been easier. It matters that, in many places and at many times, you have made a difference. Your laugh has mattered. Your love has mattered. Above all, it matters that you have been loved. Nothing else matters."

I wish I'd written that.

After stocking up on books in Stratford, and checking out the weekly market where Rick buys a pair of 'thermals' (long johns), we decide to drive to Banbury to see what Christmas things are happening there. Many years ago, we stayed in a tiny, tiny town called Sibford Gower (not to be confused with Sibford Ferris!), to the east of Banbury, so know the town a little.

Banbury is famous, among other things, for the nursery rhyme that includes its name:
"Ride a cock horse to Banbury Cross,
To see a fine lady upon a white horse,
With rings on her fingers and bells on her toes,
She shall have music where-ever she goes"

And there actually is a large cross in the middle of town, although the original was torn down in the late 1500s. The one you see today was erected in 1859 to celebrate the wedding of Queen Victoria's daughter (Vicky) to Prince Frederick of Prussia.

The town is quite busy when we arrive – major companies like Alcoa and Kraft are located here - and we have a devil of a time getting a parking spot – even the two, multi-storey parkades are full. But finally, we find a little tucked away corner where we squeeze in.

Banbury, like Evesham, has an abundance of charity shops, so we hit those first. Rick snags his first deal of the season – a big box of Christmas ornaments that are almost brand new. All the little ornaments and glass beads are in shades of red and gold - there are coloured balls, little wrapped presents, and red, wooden bells. It costs us £3 for the lot!

Our plan is to buy a little tree and some lights, and then when it is time to go home, donate everything back to a charity shop. Another way to pass on the Christmas spirit.

We have lunch at Ye Olde Reindeer Inn on Parsons Street, which I think is appropriate since we are here for Christmas (http://www.hooky-pubs.co.uk/pubs/loc.../reindeer.html). The place has been in operation since 1527 – and I bet these walls could tell some juicy stories. The Olde Reindeer Inn was the headquarters for Oliver Cromwell when he was fighting at Edgehill during the Civil War. That's what I love about England – you can have your eggs and chips at the same place that Cromwell did.

The crowd is mostly locals, with a few tourists thrown in. The ceilings are low and there are a series of little rooms, which we have to wander through to find a place to sit. I order – at the bar - a toasted bacon and cheese sandwich and Rick has gammon steak with chips and eggs. The food is what you would expect in a popular, old-fashioned pub. Two thumbs up.

Later we check out the Castle Quay Shopping Centre (www.castlequay.co.uk/), which is already decorated for Christmas in shades of ice blue and shimmery silver. There are even carols playing over the PA system. This is obviously, where the Christmas fanatics hang out. Boots, Debenhams, Woolworths, and Marks & Spencer are all here, so I stock up on supplies and scout out some potential Christmas presents.

We return twice to Banbury, in late November and December, to do some serious Christmas buying. And although we wouldn't call it a charming town, it does offer a lot of shopping possibilities, both inside Castle Quay and in the narrow streets surrounding it.

On the way home, we detour to Sibford Gower to check out the little cottage we rented in the 1980s. We stayed here for a month, and it was the first time I discovered that England had the ability to heal my weary soul. I had just quit as manager of employee communications for a mining company that would shortly implode, affecting the lives of thousands of people. At the same time, my precious mother had broken her neck in a serious car accident and was in the Calgary hospital, bed-ridden, for three months. After she returned home, and the angel gear was finally removed, Rick and I left for a long-planned holiday in England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Spain and Portugal. But Bank Cottage in Sibford Cottage was where the pieces of my life came back to me.

We park and walk down the narrow lane to 'our' cottage. Everything looks the same, perhaps tidied up a bit. The pond is still there, complete with ducks, and the weeping willow still brushes the water with its elegant limbs. We sit for a bit, not talking, remembering the hours we spent gently re-entering the world of peace and beauty in this sanctuary.

Walked to the pub, the Wykham Arms (www.wykhamarms.co.uk/), which has been spruced up quite a bit, although it is still an 18th c., thatched, country pub in a hard-to-find spot. We have ½ pint each and drool over the manor house across the street, which is for sale (www.countrylife.co.uk/en GB/property/details/property/9516). I imagine it's worth a bob or two.

We take another detour to visit the house I would buy if I ever won a major, major lottery – Compton Wynyates. It is the seat of the Marquess of Northampton and is not open to the public. But from a certain vantage point, on a hill, you can look down at it, and I do this every time I'm in this area. The house is considered one of the most beautiful Tudor houses in England and I agree. Rick and I pretend we've been invited for the week-end and drive right up to the intricately carved gates – but unfortunately, no one lets us in. If you are interested in a peek: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compton_Wynyates)

Later that night we watch one of the DVDs we bought at the Oxfam shop in Evesham. It's one of the 'Carry On' series called, 'Carry on Camping'. I think they are hilarious; Rick still hasn't warmed to them. I think I've seen almost all of them. Whether in the Sahara (who could forget Abdul Abulbul Amir), on ship (Carry on Cruising), roaming through the Wild West (Carry on Cowboy) or spoofing horror films (Carry on Screaming) – they are always good, cheeky fun.

At the other end of English humour is a show on TV we've never seen before called 'Have I Got News For You'. An assortment of journalists, comedians and celebrities – who are all extremely sharp and wicked – 'fill in the blank' headlines and comment on the news. They absolutely bludgeon George Bush and Donald Rumsfeld. Although no one, not even the Queen Mom, is safe from their deadly wit.

After Rick goes to bed, I stay up reading Sheila Hancock's book about her life with John Thaw. I can't put it down. In it, she quotes from a poem by Nicholas Evans that she says gave her some kind of peace when Thaw dies. I'll only quote a bit of it:

"So when you walk the woods where once we walked together
And scan in vain the dappled bank beside you for my shadow,
Or pause where we always did upon the hill to gaze across the land,
And spotting something, reach by habit for my hand,
And finding none, feel sorrow start to steal upon you,
Be still.
Close your eyes.
Breathe.
Listen for my footfall in your heart.
I am not gone but merely walk within you."

It constantly astounds me the power words have to connect us to what is eternal.

Next...Part III – Tooth Troubles, Antique Hunting and Tickets for the Christmas Panto
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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 04:32 AM
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rickmav - Hello. We have two grandson's, ages 4 and 7. What a joy they are and only live a short 40 minute drive from us.

You must be constantly reading and after your little review must read Sheila Hancocks book, Life with John Thaw.

Charity Shops: They seem to be everywhere in Felixstowe and when I am back home I always wander in to see what they have. None of course when I was growing up.

Christmas Pantomine: One of my best memories. Do they have Pantomines in Canada?

Sandy
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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 07:13 AM
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Hi SandyBrit - sadly, no pantos in Canada. The local school's Christmas concert is always fun, but we have nothing as over-the-top as an English panto. Maybe, I should start a campaign....
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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 06:21 PM
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Part III – Tooth Troubles, Antique Hunting and Tickets for the Christmas Panto

Another beautiful day – saw a fellow coming out of a shop wearing Bermuda shorts. That's taking it a bit far, but it is warm – certainly warmer than it would be in Canada in the middle of November.

We stop in Stratford to drop off some library books, and notice more Christmas displays in the shop windows. There are advent candles in the windows of a few homes and a scattering of holly wreaths on wooden doors.

By this time at home, I'm already fed up with the commercialism associated with Christmas. We are no sooner putting away the Halloween decorations than we're bombarded with Christmas advertising. But in England, the sense of anticipation is heightened because Christmas comes a little at a time; it feels like a season, not an eight-week shopping extravaganza. I know some people living in the U.K. might not agree, but compared to what we have in North America, Christmas in England seems like a special secret that is revealed, over time, with charm and ceremony.

As I yatter on about the Christmas decorations, Rick is tickled because he's found the perfect parking spot (sounds a little like George Constanza in 'Seinfeld'). We had been parking at the Bridgefoot multi-storey lot, just north of the Tourist Information Centre. There's always room, which is a good thing, but the price jumps if you stay for more than two hours. And it's a bit of a hike.

The parking lot Rick finds is along Greenhill Street, on your left if you're heading towards the train station, with Wood Street behind you. There's always space available and it's a short walk to everything we want to see and do in Stratford. It actually isn't marked on any of the parking maps we get from the Tourist Information Centre (www.stratford-upon-avon.co.uk/soamapl.htm), but it's a proper lot.

Later on in the week, we try the Park and Ride at Bishopton Lane
(www.warwickshire.gov.uk/stratfordparkandride), which is a short drive from our cottage in Wilmcote. You park your car wherever you like in the lot, walk to the little building (there are washrooms inside) where you buy your ticket (£1.30 return), and wait for the bus. They usually arrive every 10 minutes. To return, you catch the bus on Bridge Street just outside McDonald's, or on Wood Street by Caffe Uno. The trip takes about 10 minutes.

While in Stratford, we decide to have Sunday lunch at the Garrick Inn, on High Street. It quickly becomes a favourite of ours (http://www.pub-explorer.com/warwks/p...rduponavon.htm). The Garrick is one of the oldest buildings – and pubs – in Stratford and is named after the famous Shakespearean actor, David Garrick.

The place is bursting at the seams when we arrive, but we manage to find a small table for two. I order 'Smothered Chicken With Sweetcure Bacon' – and it's to die for. It's a chicken breast baked in mushrooms, bacon and English cheddar, served with roasted potatoes and an assortment of vegetables. Rick has Aberdeen Pie, steak and gravy in a pastry with mashed potatoes and more vegetables. Costs us £17 with two ½ pints. Definitely two thumbs up.

As with most English pubs, you have to order your drinks and meal at the bar. You return to your table with your drinks and then wait for the meal to be served to your table. We've noticed this trip that there are more and more pubs where waiters are coming to take our order – drinks and meal. I hope that doesn't become more popular, I like it the 'old-fashioned' way.

We watch the Remembrance Day service in London on the telly when we get home. Very well done – so English. Organized, touching, ritual to the nth degree and never maudlin. The Queen looks nice, Prince Philip looks ancient. Prince Andrew looks like he's lost a few pounds. Camilla is on the balcony with William, and Prince Edward and his wife. Doesn't seem the same without the Queen Mum. Tony Blair looks as if he has aged another 20 years since we've been in Europe; the British are very unhappy about the war in Iraq and hold him responsible.

While we are watching TV, Rick eats peanuts and cracks one of his teeth at the back. It doesn't ache, which is a good thing, so we'll have to see if we can get in to see a dentist during the week. We have emergency dental coverage we bought with our travel insurance through the Royal Bank/Visa. Hopefully, it will work like it's supposed to.

Spend the rest of the day reading the Sunday Times. Such a great tradition, reading the Sunday papers. We don't have anything like it in Canada.

I've never heard anyone talk about how lovely England is in the autumn. You always hear about Maine or Quebec – no one ever says I'm going to England to see the fall colours. Perhaps, people think it will rain all the time. We do have rain, but always during the night. It's absolutely clear when we wake up and stays that way for the rest of the day.

The next morning, we follow one of the driving tours that's in a binder in our cottage. It takes us through some places we've visited before, and other villages that are new to us.

The first stop is the Barn Antiques Centre in Long Marston (www.barnantique.co.uk/). Wow! Room after room of amazing antiques and collectables. And it's decorated for Christmas. You can buy anything from corner cupboards to trestle tables, from books, clothing and kitchen stuff to jewellery. There's also a gift shop, jammed pack full of goodies and a small cafe. We spend an hour; I think anyone that's a serious shopper, could easily spend three.

Then on to Chipping Campden, one of my favourite places in the Cotswolds (www.chippingcampden.co.uk/contentok.php?id=34). I've stayed here three times in self-catering cottages – and never with my husband! Once by myself, at Honeypot Cottage, a sweet, little place just off the High St. (www.chippingcampden.co.uk/honeypot.htm). Then once with my sister-in-law and, finally, with my mother five years ago. Neither of the last two places is still for rent. I think the price of houses has skyrocketed so much that a lot of cottage owners are realizing a greater profit by selling them off.

We have lunch at the Bantam Tea Rooms (www.thebantam.co.uk/). It's very busy and we have to window shop for a bit before we can get a table. But it's a lucky thing we wait; we get the table in front of the fire. Just as we sit down the wind starts to blow outside and it makes it seem that much cosier and merrier inside. The fire has coal and wood in it, which makes it burn hotter and slower. There are lots of elderly Brits sitting around us, reminds me of the kind of place Miss Marple would come to for tea.

Rick has a tuna melt on whole-grain bread with English cheddar and I have a hotpot, with bits of chicken, bacon, dumplings and carrots in a kind of gravy. It's the first time we've had a 'hotpot' – although we hear about them often enough on 'Coronation Street'. Both dishes come with a side salad and are very good. Lunch costs us £13 with a coke and orange juice. The Bantam Tea Rooms also have B&B rooms available, and sell all kinds of homemade cakes and pastries. If you stay two nights or more you get a complimentary cream tea, (double rooms are £75). Two thumbs up for this place.

There is a small antique fair in the local hall in Chipping Campden and we go in for a peek. There are some lovely rings – Victorian and Edwardian - and I try to hint to
Rick that such a treasure would be much appreciated should Santa happen to put it under my tree – but he's too busy chatting with the woman behind the table.

She's just returned from a 40th wedding anniversary trip to Canada, travelling through the Rockies, Lake Louise, etc. She can't believe how beautiful it is. We assume, because of our 'accent', that she knows we're from Canada and that's why she's telling us the story. Then she says to Rick, "You know, I can't quite place your accent. Are you from Birmingham?" We are both shocked – maybe we've been away from Canada for too long!

Next, we go to Chipping Norton. We need to buy our tickets for the Christmas panto being staged at the lovely, little theatre (www.chippingnortontheatre.co.uk/) here. This year's performance is 'Mother Goose' and has been written by Simon Brett. I'm a great fan of his Charles Paris mysteries, as well as his Brit-com, 'After Henry' - so I know his panto will be well written and funny. (And it is!!). He also writes the Mrs. Pargeter mysteries, which I don't like as much.

Panto – or pantomimes – originated in ancient Greece, but have been modified over the centuries and in England are traditionally staged at Christmas. The audience is made up of mostly children, and their parents. There are songs, dancing, jokes, candy throwing and audience participation. The plots are loosely based on traditional children's stories. Other pantos being advertised while we're in England include: 'Puss in Boots', 'Jack and the Beanstalk', 'Dick Whittington' and 'Cinderella'. The artwork on the brochures and posters is hilarious. The copy on our flyer reads, "...a family treat bursting with thrills, spills, romance, magic, songs and, of course, plenty of throwaway sweets." But for now, we must be content with just the tickets. They are going like hotcakes but we are able to get seats for Dec. 15.

We spend some time wandering about Chipping Norton (www.chippingnorton.net/). It's a small, market town ('Chipping' means 'market') that we've visited for years. My sister and her husband had a friend, who recently retired, who managed the Heythrop Kennels just outside town. We'd often drop by for a visit when we were in England, usually timing our stop to coincide with the Wednesday market.

Get our blood circulating a little faster on the way home. First, this ancient couple in this equally ancient car pulls out in front of us and Rick has to slam on his brakes. Then a few miles later, a military helicopter barely skims our roof as it appears, suddenly, from behind a hedgerow. I no sooner say to Rick, "You know, things happen in threes," when two pheasants decide to take a leisurely stroll in the middle of the road. Rick slams on his brakes again.

Once we calm down, we decide to stop at the 'Presto' bakery in Stratford to get a 'fast food' takeaway for dinner. Rick has a Cornish pie with steak and I have the homemade sausage rolls. Not that great. Also stop at '£Stretcher' –kind of like our dollar stores – and buy our Christmas tree and lights. Costs us £8! It's still a bit early but I'm excited about having it out of the box and decorated. At home, I usually put our tree up right after Canada's Grey Cup, our big football showdown, which happens around the third week of November. This is the first time we've had a 'fake' tree.

Tonight we watch the first episode of a reality show called, 'I'm a Celebrity, Get Me Out of Here' (http://celebrity.itv.com/). We'd seen it years ago when we were here, and it still is fascinating in a voyeuristic, weird, hilarious kind of way. The premise is that you put 12 celebrities in a 'Survivor' type environment and see what happens.

The big 'draw' this year is David Gest, Liza Minelli's ex. He's frightening looking and the press have been having a field day with him – satirizing everything from his eyebrows and facelifts, to his friendship with Michael Jackson. I don't know any of the other celebrities although I've heard of the singer Jason Donavan, and Dean Gaffney is familiar from one of the English mysteries I watch (as a guest), although I think he was a regular on a soap opera called 'Eastenders'. Looks like it could be interesting.

I can't believe how much we've settled in here. I'm not sure what that means, but I'm not going to over-analyze it.
I thank my lucky stars every day that we are here. It reminds me of a line from one of my favourite movies, 'The Big Chill'. Kevin Kline's character tells a friend that he is 'dug in' to the part of South Carolina where he lives. That's how I feel about England, that we are 'dug in'. Will I ever be able to go home again?

Next...Part IV – Visiting the Dentist, Shopping in Stow and What's With the Weird Crisp Flavours?
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 01:55 AM
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I hope you enjoyed the panto.
I think that the traditional ones in small theatres are much better that the huge productions with "big stars".

It funny that you became Brummies.
Canon Chasuble and I drove coast to coast before we returned home after two years in the US.
As we got further West, I was accepted without question as a Bostonian and the Canon who is Scottish, was assumed to be Canadian.

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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 05:24 AM
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What you had doesn't sound like a hotpot to me.
It's one of those dishes where everyone's mum had a different recipe. Of course, nowadays there are fancy variations.
My mum's version had scrag or middle neck of lamb. It's very cheap but very tasty.
She would put thinly sliced potato in the bottom of a deep, fairly narrow casserole dish.
She would then layer, lamb, onion and potato with lots of seasoning.
The last layer would be potatoes brushed with dripping.
The lid would go on and the whole lot would go into the oven at a very low heat for about three hours.
She didn't add liquid because the hotpot would make its own.
About half an hour from the end, she'd remove the lid and the top layer of potatoes would get brown and crisp.
When I was single and out at work, I'd sometimes nip home at lunch time and put a hotpot in the oven for the evening.
I'd be welcomed back by a warm kitchen and a wonderful smell.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 05:48 AM
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Yes, but not that different.

Fattier bits of lamb, spuds at the top, baked in a lowish oven for a couple of hours, spuds browned for the last 15-30 mins to get crispy and (in almost every case) red cabbage on the side are common to just about everyone's version. Chuck in a few dumplings if you like: add a turnip or ordinary cabbage if you're a health food nut (or poor). Spuds and lamb are key though.

Rickmav had what sounds like a jolly nice chicken stew (or casserole as everyone calls it these days). But if it didn't once go baaaa, hotpot it wasn't.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 07:16 AM
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Well, it appears as if I am still a hotpot-virgin (no, don't go there). Your recipes sound wonderful. Although we don't eat much lamb in Canada, I'd certainly be prepared to make an acception for MissPrism's or flannerunk's concoctions.

Brummies - I've never heard that before. Has a Regency England/Beatrix Potter bunny gang ring to it. And yes, we loved the panto. And the little Chipping Norton perfect was perfect. Our only regret was that we didn't get tickets to see more of them.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 07:20 AM
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Make that Chipping Norton 'theatre', not 'perfect'. Although it was.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 07:34 AM
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I have so very much enjoyed all your reports and views of all the places you visited.I have toured many places in Europe also, this report certainly inspires me to go at Christmas time. Thank you for all your efforts in writing the details.
So now can we all expect photos and shots of you and husband,I feel like I've met you personally.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 08:40 AM
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Oddly enough, a bit of googling for "Betty's hotpot" produces a recipe on the Coronation St pages of... the CBC website!
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 09:58 AM
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I just love your trip report! You write so well, and with all the details and commentary you give, you really take your reader there! I needed a taste of London just about now. Thanks so much.
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 01:40 PM
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bookmarking for a later read...
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Old Mar 13th, 2007, 03:00 PM
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lsm8931 - I'm glad you've enjoyed the reports so far. I'm so grateful that we were able to be in England for Christmas, it really has restored my sense of excitement about the season. After this report, I hope to get my photos sorted and on-line. I told Rick that someone wanted to see his picture, he thought for a minute then said, "Do you have one of me where I don't look old?" Unfortunately, not.

PatrickLondon - Thanks for the recipe! I've put the url here in case anyone else wants to give it a try - http://www.cbc.ca/coronation/hotpot.html.

sandykins - Glad you are enjoying the report. Writing it is actually helping me gratify my own England-addiction.

Author: noe847 - Hi, later on.


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Old Mar 14th, 2007, 03:43 PM
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Please hurry up and update this - I'm really enjoying your reports - they are among my favourites on Fodors. 8-)

As an English person it's very gratifying to read about people making such an effort to go off the beaten track and see sites known to the locals but normally ignored by tourists.

BTW, I am getting a bit worried about the amount of chicken and bacon pub meals you are having and feel it's time for you to move onto something else.... curry perhaps? 8-)
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