The Lisbon Dining Club.

Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:12 AM
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The Lisbon Dining Club.

This Lisbon Dining Club was started by two posters from the Lisbon and Portugal threads, Matt_from_England and Lobo Mau.

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON PART I

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...2&tid=34740328

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON PART II (Inc Portugal)

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...2&tid=34785948

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON PART III (Inc Portugal)

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...2&tid=34816717

We have now held five evenings and hosted a number of visitors both from Portugal and the U.S.A. It must be noted that there is no charge made to anyone attending the dinners, they are social occaisions which allow us to meet visitors to Lisbon. The aim of each dinner is to visit a non touristic restaurant where one can have an excellent traditional meal for under 20 euros per person. Depending on the night we have been to fado evenings and also concerts in Castelo Stº Jorge. Afterwards I write a small review and article and until now they have been included within the large threads as mentioned above. But from now on each new meal report will be here: we have a full diary of dinners coming over the summer months and should anyone coming to Lisbon want to join us please feel free to contact either Lobo or myself.

I look forward to speaking soon,

Happy travels,

Matt.
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Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:24 AM
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CERVEJARIA DA TRINDADE review.

So having arranged to meet Lobo at 7.30 I caught the sunset ferry from Cacilhas to Cais do Sodre, here's the view I had:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/web13.jpg

I wasnt't the only one enjoying the view:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/web10.jpg

I got to the restaurant:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web9.jpg

And whilst waiting for Lobo had a beer in the bar:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web8.jpg

You wait to be seated, the first room is a large main hall with tiled walls and a vaulted ceiling:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/web75.jpg

And so Lobo and I sat and got to know each other whilst choosing from the menu:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web6.jpg

We decided to start with Ameijoas Trindade (10.95 euros):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web4.jpg

...which are cooked in a garlic, butter and parsley sauce. (I personally found the sauce a little salty but the clams were fresh tender and the shells did not contain a hint of sand.)

Conversation flowed easily and it was an extension of the banter we share on this thread:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web5.jpg

(I blame having the camera in such close proximity to my face being the reason for my ugly mug!)

For the main meal we chose Bife Vazia Trindade (Steak in a thick onion sauce) topped with a fried egg. (9.70 euros).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web3.jpg

We chose for the steak to be medium but it came a little underdone, for us it was fine but others may want it "Bem Passado" - well done.

The wine we chose was Adega Vila - the house red at 4.95 euros - bot of us were driving so it didn't matter if we left some at the end. I hate paying for an expensive bottle and leaving some knowing I have to drive.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web2.jpg

For dessert we had Pudim Flan (1.75 euros):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/web1.jpg

...which was okay but a little on the small side.

And to finish off we shared a drink with restaurant manager Ricardo Ferreira who was a gracious host:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...and/webend.jpg

After which we had a couple of bicas and settled the bill which in total came to 41.75 euros plus a 2 euro tip.

A few notes made at the time...

Trindade is a large open plan restaurant though with seperate dining rooms for smokers. The walls are decorated with original medieval tiles and it has a high vaulted ceiling. As the night progresses it does become noisy and animated - we arrived at 7.30 and by eight there was a large queue of diners waiting to be seated.

The wine was nothing special, reflected in the price but with us driving it was good for a glass or two.

There isn't much cigarette smoke due to the high ceilings and seperate areas though by about nine it was becoming a little smoky.

So to sum up then with a quick tally out of ten:

Surroundings 9
Ambience 6.5
Company 10
Wine 4
Starter 7
Main 8
Dessert 5
Service 7

As a tourist restaurant it is perfect for the range of food and the decoration of the interior, however for those a little more daring or locals like ourselves there are smaller cheaper places to go just without the history. I think this makes a good locale for a large group or party, but suffers with lack of intimacy.

But I do like, and always take friends to eat here.

Matt
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Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:26 AM
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CASA DOS PASSARINHOS review.

Today was the second reunion of the recently formed "Lisbon Dining Club" and I'm pleased to say that membership has now doubled to four. Okay so Lobo and I took our spouses and they didn't exactly need arms twisting behind backs but you have to be cautious meeting persons unknown from the internet, but Lizzy (my wife) though Lobo had looked trustworthy from the previous report so had no qualms in joining us.

Casa dos Passarinhos can be found at the following address:

Rua Silva Carvalho, 195 - 1250-250, Lisboa (Tel 213 882 346).

Although it is not within the so called tourist centre it can be easily reached on foot from Amoreira shopping centre (5 mins) or from Campo d'Ourique (10 minutes). To get there from downtown it is probably easiest to catch a cab. Anyway, I ended up driving to Amoreiras and using their underground car park - which is too low for my Landrover and I ended up scraping the roof bars and tearing out the aerial! Lob met us and we were soon at the front door:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/1.jpg

The restaurant is comprised of two dining rooms, a smaller one by the bar and the lower one which is larger:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/2.jpg

(As you can see we arrived early at 7.30 ish as Friday nights many of the tables were pre booked)

I lingered at the extensive wine cabinet:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/3.jpg

Which is next to the open plan kitchen area upstairs:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/4.jpg

The girls were considering the menu whilst Lobo posed for photos:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/5.jpg

(One thing you will encounter in many places is no matter the amount of people at the table you will only be provided one menu. Ask for more - and here they have an English version if needed.)

Wine has a habit of breaking the ice and conversation was soon flowing between the girls:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/6.jpg

Whilst Lobo and I toasted the 2nd night of the dining club:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/7.jpg

"Cheers Lobo" The wine we had was Requengos Doc red from the Alentejo at 5.50 E

We started with prawns cooked in a butter garlic and picante sauce:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/8.jpg

Which was extremely nice. We were unsure of the main dishes and so the waiter brought a selection of fresh fish to the table for us to select from and we decided on the bream (Dourada grelhada):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3..._England/9.jpg

Which was served with boiled potatoes, carrots and turnip greens:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/10.jpg

We shared this 1 serving easily between the four of us and it was a meal in itself:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/11.jpg

The fish was extremely tender and light with a fresh taste, a squeeze of lemon juice drizzled over the top perfect. A slurp of wine and then in the interests of providing you the reader with the best information we order a second main meal

Secrets of the Black Pig and I'd wanted to try this for a while just to make sure it wasn't really deep fried testicles:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/12.jpg

What it in fact is are thinly sliced boneless cutlets from the back of the pig. (And I'll let Lobo talk about why the Black Pig is so special). I'm not a great pork fan but this was tender grilled and full of flavour, not at all salty as I'd feared it might be. Lizzy doesn't eat meat so we shared this one serving between three. On it's own with a side salad it would have been enough for a light lunch between us.

Desert consisted of - tarte Gelado bolacha (Frozen ice cream and biscuit tart):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/13.jpg

Two portions of Arroz doce (cold sweet rice pudding with cinamon):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/14.jpg

And chocolate mousse for me:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/145.jpg

(I had been scibbling on the paper table cloth and in my enthusiasm made a bit of a mess...)

So as we ate our puddings:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/15.jpg

We discussed the meal and compared it to our last outing to Trindade. And then we had coffee with the manager, Antonio Almeida and thanked him for his attention:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...England/16.jpg

In fact he told us a little of the restaurant's history - that it had been functioning since the 1920s and he had taken it over in the eighties and expanded it to the size it is now.

As I paid we were served complimentary glasses of Moscatel wine which wasn't a perk but served free to everybody.

So in total the bill came to 76 euros including tip and can be broken down thus:

Starters - bread cheese olives etc: 5.60E

Seafood - 9 E

Fish - 29.50 E (Although seemingly expensive this is per kilo which was 2 large fish including the vegetables)

Meat - 9 E

Wine - 5.50 E plus another 3.75 for a half bottle of Borba

Dessert 8.40 E

Coffee 2.60 E

A few notes made at the time:

The restaurant is comprised of 2 dining rooms which are nicely furnished and decorated in a traditional style with tiled walls. There is an open plan kitchen as you enter with the fish and meats displayed with a large wine cabinet to salivate over. There are No non smoking areas but I didn't notice the smell of smoke even as the place filled up. I advise arriving before 8pm especially on the weekend so not to wait for a table. Immediate parking outside is difficult though there are large carparks nearby.

In comparison with Trindade this is a less touristy restaurant more cosy and with more locals from that area eating. The mix of diners was both young and old and lively conversations circulated the room.

The service was good and two things I thought stood out was the waiter bringing us the fish and when we changed wine (1 bottle not enough for 4 so we ordered an extra 1/2 bottle) new glasses were provided.

It is a good idea to ask for 2 different main meals to be served one after the other as we did thus giving a contrast of flavours.

So to tally up (out of ten):

Surroundings - 7.5
Ambience - 7
Company - 10
Wine - 7
Starter - 8
Main - 9
Dessert - 8
Service - 8

Give this a big thumbs up for value: we paid less than 20 euros each, and without the prawns to start or puddings (which usually I don't eat but I'll make an exception for the Lisbon dining club) one could eat for a lot less. In fact the bream was enough to serve the four without the pork afterwards.

My only criticism (and it is only small) is that perhaps too many tables were in the lower dining room and that space is a little cramped. In terms of what a normal tourist would want afterwards it is a cab ride away from downtown or Bairo Alto, but for those prepared to take a trip and enjoy good company in nice surroundings (with excellent food) this is perfect. I for one will be returning...
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Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:32 AM
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ADEGA DAS GRAVATAS review.

Sunday 9th April 2006 marks an important date in the history of the recently formed “Lisbon Dining Club.” Following on from two previous succesful evenings where the membership grew from two to four, (with the addition of Elisabete and Gertrude) we were able to welcome our first foreign members, Patrick and Les from San Diego, California. Having spoken with Patrick on the phone, (so both were asured to some small extent that neither of us were crazed axe murderers) we arranged to meet at Cais do Sodre Metro Station. To get there of course I took the ferry across the Tagus river:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb1.jpg

And as always lapped up the best view of Lisbon city:
Towards Alfama:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb2.jpg

And Castelo St. Jorge:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb3.jpg

‘I’ll be wearing my New York Yankee's cap.’ I told him, and he told me to look out for a tall skinny guy with a goatee. Knowing that there aren't many tall skinny portuguese men with Goatees I felt assured I'd recognise Patrick easily. However the NY emblem has become such a watered down trademark that seemingly everyone owns a Yankees cap, without knowing a thing about baseball or the fact that the interlocked symbol was designed by Tiffany. (Of course I knew both facts having been to the house that Ruth built…) So having probably called out to a few hundred Portuguese Yankee cap wearing people who weren’t me – ‘Hi, I’m Patrick.' - ‘Como?’ with odd looks we eventually hooked up and delved down into the darkened tunnels of Lisbon’s Metro system.

Adega Das Gravatas can be found at the following address:

Trav. do Pregoeiro, 15 - Carnide, Lisboa (Tel 21 714 36 22).

I can assure you that unless with someone who knows the area, or better still João and I you will never find this popular restaurant. The nearest stop is Carnide on the blue line, one stop north from Colegio Militar/Luz. A pleasant walk through the old town square which has retained its 19th century buildings and intimate streets leads you there and as João said to me in some ways it is a little like Alfama though without the hills.

Here are Les and Patrick trying to look inconspicuous:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb4.jpg

After a few minutes in which Lobo talked a little of the area’s history we stopped for photo opp’s at the restaurant’s entrance:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb5.jpg

(From left to right - Les, Patrick, Gertrude and Lobo.)

On entering you pass through a small coffee shop area, then into the smaller dining room which houses a considerable wine cellar and open plan kitchen. Lobo had previously booked a table for six (unfortunately Elisabete couldn't come) so we were seated in the larger dining room:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb6.jpg

Adega das Gravatas roughly translated means “Wine Cellar of ties.” and you have to look up as you are seated:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb7.jpg

It is estimated that there are over 1500 different ties which have been donated by patrons, some famous, some not:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb8.jpg

We arrived early at 7.15 ish and this appears an excellent time to arrive unless you make a prior reservation. Lobo and his wife discuss our guests in Portuguese so they couldn’t understand what was being said about them:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...nd/LDCweb9.jpg

Whilst Patrick was convinced to eat the Octopus salad as a starter:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb10.jpg

The starters consisted of olives garlic and parsley drizzled in olive oil, fava bean salad, large prawns, the octopus salad and the usual suspects of bread rolls, butter, cheese and pate. Important as the food was more so was the wine and we chose a Periquita 2003:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb17.jpg

Which was served at a nice temperature giving it a smooth texture with a very fruity flavour. Of course much toasting took place as we celebrated the third dining club evening. ‘Cheers Lobo!’:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb11.jpg

Instead of each ordering a main meal Lobo ordered four different dishes comprising of – Açorda das Gambas, (Alentejanan bread stew with prawns):

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb13.jpg

Bacalhau asada, (Codfish grilled over charcoal) which came with small jacketed potatoes and turnip greens in a hot olive oil and garlic dressing:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb14.jpg

Plumas de Porco preto (Black pig cutlets) grilled over charcoal served with chips rice and a braized red green and yellow pepper salad:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb15.jpg

And Olho de beef (type of steak) again charcoal grilled served with the same accompaniments:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb16.jpg

This is med - rarely cooked so to lock in the flavour and moisture.

Lobo did a great job in serving us:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb12.jpg

As we talked and ate (and perhaps the alcohol began warming my veins) I realised that Les who was sat to my right was in fact a dead ringer for Ernest Hemingway, one of my favourite authors:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb20.jpg

With another bottle of Periquita so we went onto deserts which consisted of Quente e frio (hot and cold chocolate pie?)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb18.jpg

and Sericaia

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb19.jpg

which is very sweet drizzled in plum syrup/treacle and sprinkled with cinnamon. After bicas, essential so we didn’t all fall asleep at the table I presented a tie to Les so he could offer it to the restaurant manager:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb21.jpg

And likewise Lobo did the same for Patrick:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb22.jpg

In fact Lobo’s was quite horrendous with its paisley print but I think Patrick liked it so much he thought to take it back to the states:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb23.jpg

And when Les put mine on he assumed even more an air of Hemingway:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb24.jpg

Ties were offered to the manager in turn:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb25.jpg

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb26.jpg

we thanked the manager, Luís CALEIRO for his fine hospitality:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb27.jpg

And likewise with the Patrick handshake:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb28.jpg

Obviously so stunned by the fact that two tourists from San Diego had even found his restaurant he asked Patrick:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb30.jpg

and Les:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...d/LDCweb29.jpg

to sign the ties. I wanted assurances that he would indeed hang them up and insisted he would though I was suspicious that he would want to keep and wear that which had belonged to Lobo!

So in total the bill came to 99.90 euros including tip but between us we stumped up an extra five and it can be broken down thus:

Açorda – 10 E
Bacalhau – 10 E
Olho bife – 9.50 E
Plumas – 9.60 E
2 bottles Periquita – 18.60 E
Olives – 2 E
Fava bean salad – 3 E
Octopus – 4.95 E
Prawns – 10.50 E
3 x Quente e frio – 6.90 E
2 x Sericaia – 5.40 E
Water, bread butter coffees etc make up the rest.

So an incredible meal at 20 euros a head – indeed could have been less without the prawns and a second bottle of wine.

A few notes made at the time:

The restaurant is comprised of 1 large open plan dining room and a smaller dining area though I felt the larger one to be better as the smaller was squeezed between the toilets and kitchen. The larger dining room has a vaulted ceiling and beams from where the 1500 ties hang. Tables are spilt into groups and this is not an intimate place but as Les said it is authentic, the only foreign voices were ours and conversations circulate and you feel you are a part of the fun. I think being a Sunday and close to a church one mass had finished many families came here for dinner. The large room in which we were felt airy and spacious and though there is no division of smoking non smoking not once did I notice the smell of cigarettes. Like many Portuguese restaurants the kitchen is open plan and there are large displays of the meat and fish which rapidly decline so again another good reason to arrive early. I wouldn't worry about parking but take the metro as previously discussed.

This is not a tourists restaurant and therefore is perfect in my opinion. The food served is in large portions for a very resonable price and on this night the clientele was mostly families from the local área.

Service was excellent, and the waitress very knowledgable about the fish and meat and spoke English and smiled politely at my poor Portuguese! The wine was served at the right temperature and you will always be allowed to taste the wine before accepting it.

So to tally up (out of ten): voted for by all of us…

Surroundings - 8
Ambience - 8
Company - 10
Wine – 8.5
Starter - 9
Main – 9 (with Patrick and Les giving the Porco Preto 10 and I have to agree)
Dessert - 8
Service - 10

In terms of value for money this was unequalled in my opinion - we paid 20 euros each, and that included two excellent bottles of red wine. Lobo stated that each dining club night gets better in terms of quantity quality and value for money and I heartily agree: I love trying out new places but this (for a great dinner) hás become my favourite so far and I will understand should those who follow in Patrick and Les’s footsteps want to come here with us.

So, in summing up Adega das Gravatas receives the Lisbon Dining Club's thumbs up award and I cannot commend it highly enough. Well off the beaten track but worth the effort. Just remember to bring an old tie and call Lobo and myself to accompany you there!
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Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:34 AM
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PÁTIO DA MEMÓRIA and the Lisbon Dining Club

Last night, May 27th 2006 saw 12 people attending the latest Lisbon Dining Club: Lobo and his wife Gertrude, Jen and Gregg - (Bailey), Nancy and Mayer (sp?), Cindy and Jason, Vítor and Sofia and of course Lizzy and I. Unfortunately as documented on the thread Lyn and her partner were unable to make it and we hope that she is able to meet us for at least a coffee before heading back home. With such a large group there had been prolonged preparations, emails bounced between us and telephone calls made, photos exchanged and despite the fact that only four of us knew each other we managed to all meet up in Belém at the arranged time. In fact I barely needed to wear my Yankees cap once Jen and Greg had joined us.

Pátio da Memórias can be found at Calçada da Memória, 57-A, 1300 – 394 Lisbon. (Tel 21 364 44 51). It is approximately five minutes walk from the meeting place and on a very warm Lisbon evening our group strolled up the hill all the time getting to know each other.

The first stop was to photograph a very nicely presented house en route:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc1.jpg

Which displayed very nice traditional blue tiled panels. Halfway up the hill is “Igreja da Memória” which was a fine location to take a group photograph.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc2.jpg

From left to right: Gertrude and João (lobo Mau), Jason and Cindy, Mayer and Nancy, Greg and Jen (Bailey), Lizzy and Sofia and Vítor. This church is the burial place of Marques de Pombal who was responsible for the modern appearance of downtown Lisbon following the great quake in 1755. (Lobo can give you a better description than I.)

From there it was just a couple of minutes more and we arrived at about 7.30pm and sat down:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc3.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc4.jpg

(Mayer, Jason and Cindy)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc5.jpg

(Lizzy and Nancy)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc7.jpg

(Jen and Greg)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc8.jpg

(João and Gertrude)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc9.jpg

(Vítor and Sofia)

Of course once the Sangria was brought to the table the party atmosphere begun:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc10.jpg

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc11.jpg

Starters consisted of octopus salad, pigs ear salad, tuna pate, olives and the usual suspects of bread cheese and butter etc. A nice extra was small chouriço sausages braized over aguardente. Everyone tucked in and no one was afraid to try the dishes. I toasted João for his successful organisation:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc15.jpg

The first main course was Açorda da Gambas – bread stew with prawns:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc12.jpg

A traditional dish from the Alentejo originally made with stale bread, it was considered as a poor man’s dish using ingredients easily to hand. So it is made with bread, garlic, coriander, and prawns cooked in boiling water. 2 raw eggs are added and once at the table, the waiter, (or manager, Sr Jaime in this instance) will mix it all together giving it a thick almost glutinous consistency: it has strong flavours from the garlic and coriander.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc14.jpg

(Mayer looks on with worried look on his face, perhaps having read about my food poisoning in Porto.)

The second main course was turkey breasts in a cream and butter sauce with sliced mushrooms, served with chips (fries) and white rice:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc16.jpg

And of course all the time was more red wine Sangria being brought to the table keeping everybody happy and talking:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc17.jpg

I was sat opposite Jen and Gregg and they certainly appeared to be enjoying the evening:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc18.jpg

In fact conversation did not stop and got louder the more was drunk and bearing in mind we were all virtually strangers at the start by mid way it was like we had known each other for ages. Obviously that is the “Fodors” effect.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc19.jpg

Deserts were chosen individually and included such delights as Pineapple Mousse, Sweet Rice Pudding, Biscuit cake, Chocolate cake etc. I’d lost count of the number of jars of Sangria we had consumed by this point but it was a few and I heard many positive comments on how good it was. Our table was in front of the main performance area situated in front of the fake doorway: the whole interior imitates an old Lisbon pátio from Alafama, hence the feeling that you are sitting outside:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc20.jpg

The rules of Fado dictate that the audience is quiet, and we sat listening to “Portuguese Blues” – A fado trio consists of the guitarra:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc23.jpg

Which hás a very metallic sound owing to the plectrums on the player’s fingers – in this instance José Manuel Castro. The acoustic guitar (viola) was played by Alex Ricardo:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc24.jpg

And whilst four different singers took the “stage” the main fadista was Sofia Gloria:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc22.jpg

The biggest cheer of the evening came at the rendition of Cheira Bem, Cheira Lisboa (Smells good, smells like Lisbon), which stirs the passion in any Lisbon resident. It seemed the whole dining room was singing along, including our guests! And all the time in the background was more of that Sangria being drunk, and Sr Jaime left two bottles of Port at the table which were soon emptied. And I could have listened all night to the Fado which is best heard in small intimate places like this as opposed to concert halls. But the evening had to end at some time and with both Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer flying back home the next day, after coffees we settled the bill which in total came to 330 euros, 27.50 per person. (Is that right Lobo?) which included everything, drinks, Port, tips and all. Foregoing the offer of karoake we left as a group sometime around midnight and strolled down to Belém proper where we each departed in different directions. Goodbyes were said and hugs and kisses given, contacts exchanged and it was farewell to all our guests and new friends. For some it was the start of their holidays and for some the end: whichever it was I think we all had a good time and received good value for money. At a Fado house in Bairo Alto you would maybe have heard better fado, eaten better food but will have paid a lot lot more, and the atmosphere would have been more serious than was here – it was a perfect place to host a group keen to talk as we were.

I didn’t take as many photos as usual, there was so much conversation going round the table that I kept forgetting and my note taking was not as detailed so I’ll hope you’ll excuse me that fact but I’ll add a few more comments tomorrow morning. But to wrap up this post I hope that Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer arrived home safely and want to wish Jen and Greg a good holiday as they continue their grand tour of Portugal.

Pátio da Memórias is a hard one to call: it's far enough off the beaten track to be un-touristy, (esp with it's small subtle entrance) and yet with the fado performances the manager says that tourists do come in - in fact a group of Japanese visited recently and joined in the fado. Other than us it was just locals and so one doesn't feel like eating downtown.

As part of the set group menu the starters in addition to the bread etc comprised of three different dishes, the pigs ear salad, octopus salad and chouriço. The main meals were large, (3 servings of each) and sadly much was left over. (As João said, next time we'll take tupperware containers...)

The service was good with the manager Jaime dealing with us personally. And the fado was enjoyable and sung with a passion, especially when everyone joined in. And for a scratch trio, (the viola player was drafted in at the last minute), they were tight. (Is that a musicla term?)

To be honest I have eaten better food, (see the review of Adega das Gravatas), but in terms of our group the location was perfect. The sangria and bottles of water were endless, and 2 bottles of port were left with us to finish.

So to tally up (out of ten):

Surroundings - 8
Ambience - 8
Company - 10
Drinks – 8
Starter - 8
Main – 7.5
Dessert - 7.5
Service - 9

(Just my opinion, please feel free any of you who were present to add your own summations.)

I think that with the fado this restaurant is perfect for a group such as ours - if alone or with just one couple I'd perhaps choose somewhere else, especially if the guests are Portuguese. But for a flavour of Lisbon's musical tradition this was just right. Our guests can now tick off a nice meal and a fado performance.

So now we better start preparing for Fado in the castle and Barb on Friday night...
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Old Jun 7th, 2006, 01:35 AM
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L.D.C, the Alfama and Dulce Pontes.

Barbara (Barb65) and her husband Jim became official members of the Lisbon Dining Club last night, (June 2nd 2006) - welcome both of you. Following on from last weekend’s success this latest L.D.C was something a little different as I had secured 6 tickets in advance to the opening concert of Fado at the Castle, a séries of outdoor performances throughout June within Castelo Stº Jorge and we were priveleged to witness a superb concert by Dulce Pontes – but more about that later.

There was no need for my to wear my old Yankees cap this time out, (and in fact I should make enquiries about where are guests are from – perhaps Red Sox fans would see me and go elsewhere ) for João and his wife Gertrude had already met them under the archway at the top of Praça do Commercio.

As well as the meal we wanted to take Barbara and Jim through the Alfama, and they wanted to see whereabouts was the Fado museum en route. So we passed by Campo das Cebolas, with its old buildings and the famous Casa dos Bicos. From there it was a short walk to the Fado museum and then we began winding our way up through the narrow cobbled streets of Alfama. At this time of year everyone is getting ready for Festa Stº António and all of the buildings are decorated with coloured bunting. The sound of fado drifts from doorways and pleasant smells of sardines on the grill fill your noses. It must be noted that at present there is a lot of restoration work underway within Alfama and many building frontages are obscurred by scaffolding. However it is a charming area, washing is hung below windows, you pass by small local restaurants and cafés, and people smile as you pass by – “Boa Tarde”, “Tudo Bem?” you will hear.

After quite a climb which took me back to preparing for Kilimanjaro I took a group photo (less me) with a view to the Tagus:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim1.jpg

(Left to right – Jim, Barbara, Lizzy, João and Gertrude.)

It certainly worked up an appetite!

Tonight was somewhat different in that we decided to choose a place to eat as we walked to the castle, and we decided upon Frei Papinhas Restaurante – Bar.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim2.jpg

FREI PAPINHAS can be found at Rua de S. Tomé, 13, Alfama, 1100 – 561 Lisboa. (Tel. 21 886 6471). It seemed to be very popular and was almost full when we entered so I would suggest at the weekend perhaps arrive at 7.30 ish in order to be seated immediately.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim3.jpg

(Lizzy hás just finished saying – “Will you stop taking my bloody photo!”)

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim4.jpg

As João jokes with Barbara and Jim.

For starters we had 2 servings of Amêijoas a Bulhão Pato:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim5.jpg

Followed by three servings of grilled Sardines:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim6.jpg

Barbara needed no prompting and proved to be a real pro at filleting the sardines which are filled with tiny bones:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim7.jpg

In fact we were all so impressed we passed all of her plates to her and that was her job for the rest of the evening .

Cheers Lobo, I couldn’t forget the now familiar Lisbon Dining Club toast!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim8.jpg

Okay Jim what wine do you want next?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/jim9.jpg

In fact we shared two bottles, 1 “Vinho Verde” a chilled sparkling wine perfect with the fish and later a bottle of my favourite Periquita with the grilled cutlets of which we had three servings again.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/jim10.jpg

It’s proved a good way of sampling different dishes and we always start with the fish and then move on to the meat. “How am I going to fit all that in?” Barbara thinks…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/jim11.jpg

I was getting a little concerned for the hour was getting late and the concert started at ten so we skipped dessert and just had coffees – the bill came to 15 euros per person inclunding wines and tip which we thought to be excellent value for money. The staff were very attentive but again as the place filled to the brim so the service slowed a little.

The castle was only five minutes walk up fairly steep cobbled streets and no matter that we were late the concert had not yet started. It was held in a large courtyard in which wild pine trees grow, and a fearsome statue of Saint George stands. Behind us was a wonderful view over the Alfama, downtown and Ponte 25 de Abril all light up. Christo Rei on the opposite side of the river looked out over Lisbon and the stars were bright. A cresent moon gave a little light and bats flitted from the trees.

Dulce Pontes mixed a combination of musical styles and she sang beautifully combining tracks from her latest album which has Galizan influences, using typical instruments from that area, percussion and drums, a large string section with violins, cellos and double bass and various guitars, both classical and the Portuguese Guitarra. Dulce is a great performer and encourages the crowd to join in, clapping and singing and for me the highlight of the first set was her fado renditions with just the 2 guitars. At the end of the second set she invited the crowd to close in around her as she sang out her final song.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/jim13.jpg

(The image is a little dark, my apologies)

With the excellent accompaniment of her backing band:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/jim12.jpg

And receiving our appreciation and applause she left into the darkness of the castle as she had appeared and the concert was over.

Both Barbara and Jim had enjoyed it - for Lizzy and myself it was a real treat to see Dulce in this excellent form. An absolute pleasure and should you ever get the chance to see her live then make sure you do. Also have a look at her website:

http://dulcepontes.net/site.php?lng=en

And so we wound our way down from the castle stopping off at the statue of Stº António himself where Barbara and Jim posed under the old streetlamps:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/jim14.jpg

The evening itself finished sitting at a table in Chiado at the famous coffee shop “Café Brasileira” watching late night people walk past and take note Tamaka, it is just opposite your appartment. We sat next to the statue of Fernando Pessoa – this coffee shop was well patronised by the intellectual crowd and obviously we kept up that tradition last night

Barbara and Jim were most excellent company and it was a true pleasure to host them this evening – obviously it was more than just the meal itself but in total the dinner and concert tickets came to 25 euros per person and was unbelievable value for money. I guess had it rained then the outside performance would have not been as enjoyable but when everything comes together right as it did last night then it was perfect.

Barbara and Jim – thanks for being part of it!
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Old Jun 17th, 2006, 08:25 AM
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STº ANTONIO, ALFAMA AND THE L.D.C.

Festa Stº Antonio is celebrated on the night of June 12th each year and thus it is an annual event for Lizzy and I: dinner of grilled sardines in the lower Alfama and then we stroll up to the castle past Cathedral Se and then work our way down through the claustrophobic but joyous alleyways of Alfama itself. This year we had the pleasure of hosting Lily and her husband John from Georgia, Lobo (João) and his wife Gertrude and two of our long time Portuguese friends, Jorge and Lucinda.

We met up in the now usual place underneath the Triumph arch at the top of Praça do Commercio and Lily had no trouble recognising me from past reports. After introductions and a some photo opportunities so we begun walking to Alfama via Campo das Cebolas which is where we decided to eat. This whole area is dedicated to eating al fresco: the roads are closed to vehicles and tables line the streets: there were eight of us to sit and we chose a table outside of a Chinese restaurant of all places:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant2.jpg

Jorge and Lucinda.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant3.jpg

Lizzy and Gertrude – I think Jorge is exagerating about the size of something: my wife obviously doesn’t believe him And neither do Lily and John…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant4.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant5.jpg

And of course not forgetting João and Gertrude.

“Cheers Lobo!” as we tuck into the red wine Sangria:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant6.jpg

“À saúde.”

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant7.jpg

“À saúde.”

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant8.jpg

Obviously this night isn’t a traditional L.D.C evening - Stº António is about eating sardines so we started with 24 between us…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ant9.jpg

As Lily gets to grips with the bones:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant10.jpg

In fact Lily had the biggest sardines of the lot:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant11.jpg

(Just joking, that was the second course of ribs.)

We were sat a couple of tables away from the barbeque and as the wind changed direction so this fragrant smoke blew across us. Up and down the street hundreds of people ate, music played out and the smoke blew across us: and the night was fine and warm and what a welcome to Portugal for Lily and John.

I think it was all getting too much for him and at one stage he was asleep…

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant12.jpg

but coffees soon revived him for the long mad walk ahead:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant13.jpg

The bill came to 30 euros per couple which included the sardines, the ribs, boiled potatoes and side salads with grilled green peppers, I’ve forgotten how many jars of Sangria and the coffee. Really the food was only okay but on a night like this you are served quickly and everyone eats more or less the same wherever you go. And there isn’t a great choice especially when you are eight persons: you just grab the first available table and it pays to arrive early. In fact as we got up there were already people slipping into our seats just vacated and arguing over who got there first.

As the roads are closed off you can walk up to the castle without fear of cars or trams or buses descending the winding streets and so with many thousands of others we made our way slowly up to the castle. En route we visited the Roman ruins which are a hidden gem and at night were lit up: there is a dedicated museum too which obviously was closed – it is my intention to do a report on it soon as it really is a secret but worth seeking out. By the statue of Stº Antonio, and in front of the church of the same name candles are lit and prayers offered to the saint:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant14.jpg

Saint António it is said was somewhat of a ladies man, a flirt – and nowadays he is venerated as a protector of lovers. Should you wish for a husband or wife it is to him you pray or so it is said: in fact June 12th is the day when ladies propose to men rather than the more traditional way.

The tradition is to throw a coin so it lands in the open pages of his bible to bring you luck - Lily had a go but I think her dollar coin took someone's eye out on the other side of the statue and we quickly lost ourselves in the crowd ;-)

Another tradition is that those in love purchase a potted manjerico plant, (a basil like herb) with a paper carnation inserted. I tis said that you cannot smell the leaves directly or the plant will die but have to rub them with your fingers and then smell your hand: I actually think this is only to disguise the strong smell of sardines from dinner.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant16.jpg

Each one has a love poem attached and so John did the romantic thing and presented one to Lily and everyone went “ah…” yet he couldn’t read the text so Lizzy translated for him. Whereas Lizzy and I, having been married so long quickly passed them by

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant17.jpg

Upon reaching the castle, via the art school district, one finds the gates to be closed but it seems traditional to go right up to them as if they will magically open just for you:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant19.jpg

And despite the fact of not being able to enter Lily was still smiling:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant20.jpg

There are so many street bars selling beer and sangria that you never go thirsty and many enterprising teens sell cans out of dustbins full of ice. Of course with so much liquid inside you you may want to use the toilet and close by the castle gates are the oldest conveniences in Lisbon:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant25.jpg

Note what the little boy is doing, and it is just a urinal against the wall big enough for three blokes standing together: like the castle gates tonight it was closed but that didn’t prevent many people from relieving themselves there anyway!

Once away from the urinals I managed a quick group photo which was difficult in the crowds:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant23.jpg

(From left to right: João, Gertrude, Lily, John, Lizzy, Lucinda and Jorge crouching and just whose is that mystery hand?)

Despite the party atmosphere and millions of people in the street having fun life still goes on for some and here is a local hanging out her washing above the masses:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant26.jpg

And I wasn’t the only one photographing the lamps:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant27.jpg

How did your’s come out John?

Down from the castle to the lookout point ‘Portas do Sol’ which again is closed, presumably so a thousand drunk revellers don't fall lemming like to their death, we descend the staircase at Rua Noberta de Araújo and usually this is a beautiful way to enter the lower area of Alfama. However tonight it was heaving; was claustrophobic and noisy with electronic music pumping from speakers, you were just carried down almost without your feet touching the ground:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant28.jpg

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant29.jpg

(BTW it’s not that I’m taller than anyone else, I just held the camera aloft firing away and hoping that one shot would come out okay.)

And reaching the end of this passageway we hit the nearest bar for a round of well deserved beers and in fact Lobo’s didn’t even touch the sides!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant30.jpg

Lily was relieved to see that John was okay – they’d arrived in the morning had a few hours sleep in the hotel and then met us - brave people they were:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant32.jpg

Even at this late hour the barbeques were still smoking away and there was no end of people eating:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant36.jpg

Sardines and ribs and other delicious meats:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant37.jpg

In fact for those of you from New York it is not unlike the Saint Gennero festival in Little Italy but whereas that is just one long street, (from what I remember of my last trip over in September) Stº Antonio engulfs what seems to be most of Lisbon.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant35.jpg

Dancing and singing:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ant34.jpg

Cheering and shouting and that was just us…

I really got to talk with Lily and John when the volume allowed it and they were a wonderful couple, enthusiastic and excited to be in Lisbon at last. It seems they have a good holiday ahead of them and I cannot think of a better way to start than Festa do Stº António. Granted the food was not on the level of Gravatas or the others places in which we have eaten, and the Sangria wasn’t as strong as I’ve had before, but tonight wasn’t about the food, it was about Lisbon celebrating. And on this night our city is at its best - and the people really make an effort to enjoy themselves. I wouldn't advise bringing young children along, (although we have taken our eldest daughter in the past) or for elderly or infirm people to walk the Alfama in the crowds because it is hot and cramped, claustrophobic and many times does one have to shove their way through the people but it is all good natured fun.

So no restaurant review, no summing up on the food or service – just a slow walk back to Praça Do Commerçio late at night and still behind us everybody celebrated on into the morning hours. We ended up having to catch the 1.40 am ferry back to Cascilhas and so bade everyone farewell and what a wonderful night it had been. But boy were my legs aching after all that walking up and down the narrow passages of Alfama!

Matt
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Old Jun 17th, 2006, 08:36 AM
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This is wonderful, Matt! Thanks for all this information. Too bad we are not visiting Lisbon this year as we did last year or we would most certainly attend one of the dinners. This year it is Italy.
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Old Jun 17th, 2006, 08:57 AM
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Matt.

We are counting the days. The only problem is that by the time we arrive there will be so many good places, how can we decide?

Sherry
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Old Jun 17th, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Matt I think I preferred our slow walk up to the Castle but it looks like lots of fun and I can smell those sardines!

Thanks for explaining those plants. Now I understand some of the decorations as well as those plants I have seen as table decor in restaurants.

Jim is still away on business but he will get your photos soon. Thanks.

Barb
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Old Jun 29th, 2006, 01:39 PM
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NAMAKA, TIES AND FESTA SÃO JOÃO

Last Friday Namaka, (AKA Gina) her husband Robert and their two children became the latest official members of the Lisbon Dining Club, joining us for a meal at Adega das Gravatas which you will be familiar with from a previous night out with Les and Patrick from San Diego. It had been prearranged to meet at Baixa Chiado Metro Station which in hindsight was a mistake, especially at the time we did, 7.00 pm because it was the end of the rush hour and with two seperate railway lines and no available phone communications finding one another took a little time. However Gina assured me they would recognise me from previous L.D.C reports - however it was in fact Robert I recognised first from Gina’s description and I must admit I am now pretty adept at spotting tall Americans within a crowd.

After a riding the metro from downtown across town we met João and his wife Gertrude at Carnide Metro station and took a short walk to the restaurant: it was windy and cold in contrast to the weather in Costa and I was beginning to regret not wearing a jacket. The old centre of Carnide was decorated for the Festa São João and people were just beginning to gather by the bandstand: later that night returning through the square we would squeeze through a large crowd dancing and cheering.

We were shown to our table by Luís CALEIRO who recognised us from the last time and sat us directly beneath the ties we had presented him. I thought they had been pretty ghastly but there are some truly horrendous ties hanging from the beams - it provides some entertainment trying to spot which is the worst.

Again we were sat by 8.00 pm:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam1.jpg

and it is a good idea to arrive early - shortly after we arrived there were very few tables free. As with each meal thus far conversation was free and unforced, and it is thanks to Fodors, (which has brought us together in the first place) that it really is like a meeting of old friends. Gina has been a resident on the threads for a long time and it is like being with family:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam3.jpg

(Gina with her son.)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam4.jpg

(Robert and their daughter)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam2.jpg

(And of course João and Gertrude).

Actually Gertrude took a shot of Lizzy and I but upon reviewing it I looked so awful that I didn’t wish to include it here L.O.L. Although those who have actually met me may well state that I am not that bad in the flesh: it is just that I am not photogenic.

When you sit you are confronted with various starters, the octopus salad, fava bean salad:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam5.jpg

Fresh prawns:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam6.jpg

However one should note that the prawns as a starter can be as expensive as a main course dish and as nice as they may be without care you can be tripling your bill without realising. Robert proved to be a prawn peeling expert:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam7.jpg

and a nice touch is that you are provided with wet wipes for your fingers before moving on.

“Cheers Lobo!” the now familiar L.D.C toast:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam8.jpg

Smile for the camera, “Á Saùde!”

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/nam9.jpg

Much the same as the last time here we had the Acorda da Gambas – bread stew with prawns, and Plumas da Porco Preto which was an excellent option again. Robert went for the grilled Salmon:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam10.jpg

which came with the carrots, potatoes and shredded green beans. Whilst the younger guys shared a steak and many French fries with cokes – we had a couple of bottles of Periquita from José Maria Fonseca, and a few beers…

At the end of the meal Gertrude gave Robert one of João's old ties to present to the manager and it is lucky Lobo is pretty laid back and doesn’t like wearing ties to work:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam11.jpg

The bill, which included coffees, deserts (both ours and ice creams for Namaka’s children) came in at 140 euros, 20 euros a head per adult and ten each for the junior L.D.C members which was pretty good and true to the original L.D.C price regulations.

The zone surrounding the restaurant is very photogenic especially in the dusk with the old street lamps and we spent a few moments taking photographs in the area. Of course by the time we reached the town square the Festa São João was well underway:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam12.jpg

And Gina was so excited at seeing the Farturas van that she had to rush right up and buy a big bagful:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam13.jpg

Farturas are made from a thick donut dough deep fried and covered in sugar: it is rolled in a circular form and then lengths cut off and served: it usually works out a 1 euro per piece:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam15.jpg

Despite the fact of having just finished dinner nobody but your’s truly could resist and Gertrude was so desperate she went to eat João's as well!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam16.jpg

Actually it was such an unexpected treat for we had forgotton it was tonight the Festa would happen and eating farturas took Gina back to those long distant days as a child in the Lisbon area eating farturas at the seaside with her parents. Music playing in the background and couples dancing, the bright lights and bunting, farturas and laughter long into the night, another successful evening for us all:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam18.jpg

(Left to right: Namaka’s daughter, Gina, Namaka's son, Robert, Gertrude, João and Lizzy "Get that bloody camera outa my face" Fernandes Wilkinson.) Now I have to apologise to Gina’s children for in the intervening days I have forgotton their names and it is a sure enough reason for me to post L.D.C reports sooner…

And to finish off the evening a demonstration of Portuguese fast food – Pão com Chouriço:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/nam19.jpg

Notice the following: the real wood fire oven in the background, the freshly made bread dough, how she is rolling the chopped chouriço sausage into the dough. No deep fat friers, no fries or cokes or extra bacon and cheese, no ‘Supersize me’ options – if you want to eat more you just buy a second, or third…

Perhaps it was a little boring for the children but I think they enjoyed the food, and perhaps I am being rude calling them children, young adults is a better phrase. We really enjoyed talking with Gina who explained why her screen name is Namaka, (I’ll let her explain) and Robert – it turned out we had a little past history in common: thankyou for the gift by the way: I wore it with pride on the Sunday against Equador and will do so again on Saturday versus Portugal. It seems that they were having an exciting family holiday to say the least, (again should they wish to expand in their trip report I’ll let them do so) with Paris behind them and London ahead and a lot of enthusiasm for travelling – any time you come back this way be sure to give us a call and next time should he wish to come don’t forget your father, Gina! Thankyou for your excellent company and I hope you all enjoyed it as much as we did. And interestingly enough on the day they leave Sarasara takes over the apartment in Chiado so one hopes Namaka didn’t make too much of a mess! Speak soon guys and happy trails…

Now Lobo, other than names which I’ve forgotton is there anything I have missed?
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Old Jun 29th, 2006, 05:55 PM
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Matt. Again. Thank you for a delightful report.

Sherry
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Old Jun 29th, 2006, 07:02 PM
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While I am truly excited about going to the LDC outing planned for July 18 at Pateo da Memoria, I think I'm going to have to find a way to get to Adega das Gravatas on one of the other nights. If I can't get my travel companions to go, I may have to try it alone. These reports are killing me.

(And if you are not photogenic, Matt, who was that Indiana Jones fellow posing with a Masai elder in the picture you posted previously?)

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Old Jul 12th, 2006, 01:23 AM
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SARASARA’S BELATED L.D.C REPORT.

As those of you whom have been with us for a while know, SaraSara joined us here in the Lisbon threads back in March this year: in fact I recall our first exchanges regarding Fátima and in personal emails she expresed some hesitancy at meeting up for dinner. And that is understandable, bearing in mind, (in addition to her husband Scott) she brought her three daughters, Margaret, Gillian and Grace along to the restaurant. However over the intervening months that bond of trust so became stronger and I’m sure having seen Gertrude and Elisabete joining in the various L.D.C events Sara realised Lobo and I weren’t crazed Internet psychopaths.

A phone call on the Sunday morning promised good things ahead, Sara’s voice was full of joy and laughter: whereas mine in contrast was ragged and raw from having spent the previous afternoon shouting at a television screen, getting drunk and cursing England’s loss on penalties to Portugal in the World Cup. Not to mention the pain inside my skull which only numerous paracetemols dulled.

Today’s L.D.C event was a special event as the younger diners almost outnumbered the (ahem) senior ones: my eldest daughter wanted to come to and thus Carolina becomes the youngest member at five years of age. And despite some reticence on her part by midway through the meal she had mustered up the courage to sit alongside Sara and her youngest daughter with whom she quickly made friends. But more of that later. Ignoring my own advice previously, (see NAMAKA, TIES AND FESTA SÃO JOÃO) we arranged to meet up by the ticket booth in Baixa Chiado metro station and being a Sunday night we did not encounter the crowds as previously with Namaka. I think Sara was pleased we had brought Carol and after introductions and many double kisses, (the tradition Portuguese way) we were presented with a “Goody Bag” from America full of gifts and thankyou again Sara and Scott for that unexpected gesture. And so down we dropped into the tunnels below old Lisboa and the metro took us north on the blue line to Carnide, about a fifteen minute ride.

Now, due to traffic problems into Lisbon we were already late and João, (Lobo Mau) and Gertrude were patiently awaiting us in Carnide’s small town square. There was an exchange of greetings, (and some light hearted ribbing about the previous night’s result - thankfully Sara’s family didn’t understand my Portuguese swear words…) and then we were off to Adega das Gravatas. Of course I took a group photo en route:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw1.jpg

(Left to right: me, (Wow, almost a first!) Carolina, Margaret, Scott, Grace, Gillian, Sara, Gertrude and João. Lizzy refused to be in front of the lens and I bowed to the combined pressure to be in shot…)

Now it must be noted that this report will contain less photos than usual and this is for a couple of reasons: many of the food shots would only be repetitions of those in previous reports and at some stage Carolina sneaked the camera from my possession and took pictures that were of interest to her…

We were greeted by the manager who recognised us immediately now and we were seated at a table he had reserved for us. We scanned the ceiling and pointed out ties the L.D.C had previously donated. The starters were excellent as usual consisting of octopus salad, fava bean salad, olives and bread, cheeses and all the other usual suspects. In fact there were more starters than we cared for and so we sent them back.

Sara was still to sample vinho do Porto so before the main meal she and Scott had a glass of Tawny each.

The main dishes we ordered were:

Plumas de Porco Preto x3 (With fries, white rice and a braized hot red and green pepper salad)
Bife da Vazia x2 (Steak well done with fries)
Grilled Tuna steak x1 (With boiled new potatoes and lightly steamed broccoli and carrots)
Dourada escalada x1 (As with the tuna)

and to accompany mineral water and my preferred José Maria Fonseca’s “Periquita”.

“Cheers!”

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw2.jpg

And Sara was really getting into the spirit of the Lisbon Dining Club:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw3.jpg

João keeps up a pretence of looking interested whilst we discuss my visit last year to New York and Yankee Stadium:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw4.jpg

Whilst Gertrude and Lizzy no doubt dissect the match from the night before:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw5.jpg

I think Scott has just seen the number of deserts we have ordered!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw6.jpg

Whilst Gillian and Carolina become international friends….

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw7.jpg

Here Grace is modelling the tie which Scott will later present to the manager:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw8.jpg

We ordered a selection of deserts which included chocolate mousse, quente e frio, serecia, bolo do bolacha, chocolate cake and so on, more than enough for everyone to sample a little of everything and with the coffees so was the meal concluded: it was then that Sara admitted that they had to check in at some ridiculous hour for their London flight in the morning and likewise for Carolina it was a schoolday following and we made to leave… but not before Scott presented a tie to manager Luís CALEIRO for his collection;

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ngland/sw9.jpg

The bill came to I think 150 euros, (I’ve looked everywhere but cannot find the receipt to confirm) for the ten of us which provided excellent value and without doubt the food was of its usual high standard: especially the Porco Preto which I can eat each time and never get bored of.

And thus we walked back to the metro station through Carnides town square, Gillian and Carolina hand in hand and talking away to each other - Carolina teaching Gillian how to count to ten in Portuguese!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/sw10.jpg

And so to London the next day and what to do… Sara had said her girls had had enough of old castles and churches and so it was my suggestion to go on the London Eye, the great ferris Wheel over Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament - I hope the weather was good for you Sara, did you go on it in the end?

And by the way I hope I got all the names in the right order, please correct me if I’m mistaken.

And so another metro ride back to Baixa Chiado and again farewells: more hugs and kisses, handshakes and best wishes and more Internet friends who have gone from being virtual to actual: Sara and Scott, Margaret, Grace and Gillian it was a true pleasure to meet you all and we look forward to hooking up again some day. Think of us when you think of Portugal, old Lisboa and Plumas de Porco Preto, we’ll always be here, or there in your memories which will never fade. Happy trails.

Matt
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Old Jul 12th, 2006, 01:43 AM
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Beautiful report as usual!
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Old Jul 12th, 2006, 03:52 AM
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great report! Your children are all so beautiful!
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Old Jul 12th, 2006, 03:59 AM
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Matt, I love it: "crazed internet psychopaths.

Enjoyable as always.

Sherry
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Old Jul 12th, 2006, 03:57 PM
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Another great evening and report.

I like that it has become a family get together

Can't wait to return!
Barbara
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Old Jul 16th, 2006, 06:00 PM
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Matt, I have been busy with girl scout camp for a week so I am just now reading your report. How wonderful it is! I would love so much to be back there right now! Your report is so well written and the pictures are great, except for the one of me that makes me look like a drunken pirate! I swear to you all that I was not drunk, I was just having a great time. I was especially pleased to see Gillian and Carolina getting along so wonderfully. We really do appreciate what wonderful hosts you and Jao and your wives were. We sincerely hope that we will meet again someday and hope that you know you are always welcome here in the USA.
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Old Jul 16th, 2006, 11:12 PM
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Drunken Pirate
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