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Just back from a wonderful month in Malta & Sicily...

Just back from a wonderful month in Malta & Sicily...

Old Oct 19th, 2005, 01:47 AM
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Just back from a wonderful month in Malta & Sicily...

We have just returned from a month away in Malta and Sicily – roughly two weeks in Sicily and a week each on Malta and Gozo. I’ve picked up so many tips from this very addictive forum that I thought someone may find some of this useful. If anyone wants further info, I’d be pleased to help.

My husband and I loved Malta, thought it was like a hidden gem in Europe. We found the Maltese friendly and helpful, the islands of Malta and Gozo full of history, beautiful old buildings and lots to see and do. The stunning view of the Grand Harbour in Valletta is one I’ll never forget. We liked Sicily, though not quite as much. We stayed in Siracusa, Lipari and Taormina and did an organised day tour to Agrigento and Piazza Armerina.

We flew return from Melbourne to Malta with Emirates and return from Malta to Catania with Air Malta. Air Malta lost our luggage and for two days in Siracusa we had nothing but what we stood up in. The most frustrating thing was not knowing when, or if, we would ever get our luggage. Getting info about the bags was impossible.

Great weather in Sept/Oct, sunny and warm every day except for one day in Taormina when there were huge thunderstorms and a day or two here and there with a little rain. The day after the thunderstorms we saw snow on Mt Etna!

We only used public transport, mainly buses, except for the last 4 days on Gozo where we hired a jeep –we were windblown, subjected to petrol fumes, bumped around on the rutted roads, no airconditioning or comfortable seats but my husband just loved that jeep - must be a man thing.

A couple of general things –
Malta has public toilets but there are none in Sicily. For someone like me who is constantly needing the loo, this is important to know! In Sicily you have to go into a bar to use their facilities. There is usually no toilet paper, so come prepared!
We had some problems getting money from ATMs, one issue was our bank’s fault, the other time not sure what was wrong, we just kept trying different ATMs at different times that day and finally got money out. So don't panic, just keep trying, it may work.
It’s a very long trip from Australia to Malta (about 30 hours – yikes!). We took Jetease (also called No Jetlag), have used it before on a long journey and it definitely reduces the effects of jetlag for us.

...more to follow on where we stayed...
Kay
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 01:53 AM
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We travel on a budget and usually prefer small family run places with character but the modern 4 star Calypso Hotel at the end of the trip on Gozo really hit the spot, especially after the grotty Grand Harbour Hotel. In the following order, we stayed at:

VALLETTA, MALTA
www.vallettastudios.com
Lm16 per night, no breakfast
Great little self-contained studio, budget price, well equipped. We were pretty much left on our own to pretend to live life like a local for a week. Fabulous harbour view from the little balcony and very central. Michael has two studios to rent and we found him very helpful.

SIRACUSA, SICILY
Hotel Gutkowski www.guthotel.it
Euro 90 per night breakfast incl.
OK hotel, friendly and helpful staff but did not particularly like the location or the décor which is best described as ‘modern industrial’ – ugh. We were actually in rooms in a building just down the road from the main hotel.

LIPARI, SICILY
Diana Brown’s Rooms www.dianabrown.it
Euro 40 per night, no breakfast
Bright and cheerful room, central, well equipped and great value. We had a balcony, drying space outside for laundry, fridge, kettle, small amount of crockery, books and mags to read etc. Diana is helpful and friendly.

TAORMINA, SICILY
Hotel Villa Gaia www.hotelvillagaia.com
Euro 95.00 per night, no breakfast
My jaw dropped when I first saw our room - over the top décor, stuff all over every surface. It was terribly over done and made my eyes hurt just to look at it. Bathroom was the worst on this trip, just adequate. Best things about the hotel were the central location near the Duomo and the view of Mt Etna from our shared balcony. Because of cloud cover, we could only see Mt Etna on 2 out of 5 mornings.

VALLETTA, MALTA
Grand Harbour Hotel http://sites.keyworld.net/grandharbourhotel/
Lm18 per night, breakfast included
I think this was a 1 star hotel with a 5 star view. Décor was tired and worn and room basic. Shower and basin in the room, toilet down the corridor. It smelt a bit, like someone had been smoking. Terrific view from our window of the Grand Harbour. Breakfast was bread rolls and coffee or tea, pretty basic.

MARSALFORN, GOZO
Hotel Calypso www.hotelcalypsogozo.com
Lm33.50 per night, buffet breakfast incl
Best place we stayed, in terms of luxury and facilities. We had a wonderful view of the harbour at Marsalforn, there was a huge variety at the buffet breakfast, swimming pool, nice café and restaurants, internet etc etc. Easy walk to loads of eating places. Perfect place to finish the trip.

Kay
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 03:55 AM
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Thanks for the report Kay. It sounds like you had a good time. I still have Malta on my list of my places I have to go to when I next return to Europe.
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the report Kay. My daughter is going to be spending next semester in Sicily studying in Ortigia (by Siracusa) and wants to go for a trip to Malta on a long weekend so will print this out for her. Sorry about the luggage as I know that that is always a bad way to start any trip!
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 09:42 AM
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KayF,

Thanks for the report on the Valletta Studios. We will be staying there for a week in Nov. Since I selected this property soley on the website information, I'm delighted to hear your positive remarks about the studio and the proprietor Michael. Even in the reservation process, he has been very gracious and helpful.
In which studio did you stay, one or two? Was the bed comfortable? Did Michael pick you up from the airport? Did you pay for the apt. at the beginning or end of your stay? Just wondering because we are getting in at 9 p.m. and may not be able to get Maltese Lira immediately. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 07:49 PM
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Hi Athena,
We loved staying in the apartment in Valletta. We had apartment one booked but in the end stayed in apartment two for the week. There was a muck up in the arrangements which initially annoyed me but when Michael explained I understood what had happened and we really liked our apartment.
Yes, the bed was comfortable, it could be converted to a sofa during the day (we didn't bother) but it had slats underneath so was supported quite well. I was a bit concerned with the bed as my husband has a bad back but it was fine. Michael said he would pick us up at the airport and he was there, with a sign with our names on. He is very nice and it's good to talk to a local about all things Maltese. We had no Maltese lira to pay with either when we first arrived, as our ATM card wouldn't work, but Michael said he would drop around later in the week and we paid him then. (There are a few ATMs at the airport in arrivals.) Michael seemed pretty relaxed about things, I'm sure you can work out the payment while you are there. You can drink the water in Malta but it doesn't taste very nice as it's treated seawater. If you arrive on a Sunday, almost everything is closed all day, but you can get bottled water at the bus station, 5 mins walk from the studio. On Sundays, restaurants and cafes will be open so you can easily find somewhere to eat.
We really enjoyed our stay on Malta and Gozo, please ask away if there is anything else you'd like to know.
Kay
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 08:16 PM
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Thanks so much for the trip report. My daughter just got back from 6 mo. in Italy--the last 2 weeks in Lipari, which is LOVED. I've been drawn to Malta reinforces this. Would love to hear more about your experiences there...restaurants, places you went, etc.

And, oh boy, that really is a LONG trip!
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Old Oct 21st, 2005, 07:05 AM
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Kay,

Thanks so much for your speedy and informative answers. The news about the bed is good as my husband also has spinal problems. We are looking forward to Malta very much. By the way, we were in Sicily this spring and love it just as much as mainland Italy. You must visit Sicily in spring if you have the chance. It is absolutely covered with wild flowers of every variety and color imaginable.
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Old Oct 21st, 2005, 07:45 AM
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KayF,

Very nice trip report. Athena and I sympathize with your having a great time despite the lost luggage. Several years ago, we had a similar experience.

I am the gent with the bad back Athena was referring to. My duties include stocking the kithen. Is there a grocery market near the apartment?

By the way, I recommend giving Sicily another chance, perhaps in the Spring to see the wildflowers, especially around Cefalu and Selinunte. Athena describes Sicilian floral and historical sights in her June 2005 trip report much better than I ever could.

Thank you!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 01:21 AM
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Thanks Athena, Shutterbug and Artlover for your interest. We had such a great time, it's good to share!

Shutterbug - the best place for groceries in Valletta is the supermarket in Republic Street, not far down from the bus station. It's on a corner, open Mon-Sat 9-7pm. There is an upstairs which we only discovered on our 4th visit! It's only a small shop but adequate, there is also the fresh fruit & veg and butchers and delis near the open air market on Merchant St. Oddly enough, the best place for bread was a stand at the bus station. We didn't actually cook, we prepared simple breakfasts and made drinks etc but there are lots of places to eat out and it wasn't expensive. There is also a very small shop about 2 mins walk away that sells water, cold drinks, bread etc.
You might know of the English chain Marks & Spencers, well the store on Republic St has some grocery items on the lower ground floor, near the cafe.

If you go to Marsaxlokk on a Sunday there is heaps of fish for sale, also cheeses, olives, fruit etc. Don't know about getting the fish back to Valletta on the bus though, unless you can get some ice. The market also has very cheap clothes, shoes, bags, souvenirs etc (cheap quality too but for that price...)

Athena, thanks for the tip about Sicily in the spring. There are so many places to visit and so little time... Just a word about the apartment, don't expect too much. It's fairly simple but that's what we liked.
Kay
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 01:57 AM
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To Artlover - yes, I agree it's a long trip, if you mean in terms of flight time from Australia. It took about 28-30 hours each way, I love the travel but hate the flying. If you mean 4 weeks was a long time, not to us. We usually go overseas for 4-6 weeks, it's so expensive to get to Europe, the USA etc and takes such a long time to get there, we make the most of it!

We loved Lipari too, very relaxing place. It reminded us a bit of the Greek Islands. We found the ferry timetables a bit of a laugh, I think it was more of a suggestion than set in stone.

Briefly, on Malta, we visited the Knights Armoury, the Malta Experience, the In Guardia historical re-enactment, the Manoel Theatre, all the shops (!!), the Sunday market just outside the Valletta City Gates, also Marsaxlokk Sunday market, St John's Co-Cathdral, St Paul's Shipwreck Church, Sliema, Mdina, the Hypogeum at Paola, Vittoriosa, Archaelology Museum, did a 2 hr harbour cruise and the Air Show. Other stuff too but these are the main things. I feel exhausted just having read that!
We found Gozo very relaxing, the people are friendly and hospitable and the pace is slow. We visited Victoria and the citadel and cathdral, Marsalforn, Xlendi as well as a few other places.

We found the food OK on Malta, nothing to rave over but fine. There is more choice than on Sicily where you can only get Italian food. We are used to a multi-cultural food scene where we live and found the one cuisine a bit dull after 2 weeks.
We liked the homely atmosphere at the Kings Own Band Club on Republic St, ate there twice. Also had a good meal at Cocopazzo, on the same street as the Osborne Hotel. The pizza looked good at La Cave under the Castille Hotel and we enjoyed Caffe Cordina and Eddie's, next door, on Republic St - both cafes with a wide selection of snacks.

We used the Lonely Planet Malta and Gozo book and it was very good, we would have been lost without it at times. Most of the historical sites have zero info for tourists so it's good to read up beforehand.

Best wishes, let me know if I can help further.
Kay
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Old Oct 22nd, 2005, 03:46 PM
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Wow, thanks so much for your trip report! I actually came onto the bulletin board looking for advice on my upcoming trip to Malta, so this thread was a great surprise and I really enjoyed reading it.

I went to Malta (and Sicily) for the first time 6 years ago, but it was as part of a tour group. I loved the country so much that I have always dreamed of returning, and in March 2006 I will be going back with my husband. This time, though, we will be on our own. My main question for you is, how easy is it to get around Malta using public transport? I have read a lot about how unreliable the buses are and how difficult it can be to even know where/when to get off. I would love to hear about your experiences using the buses (and any other further info on Malta in general if you think of anything else you wanted to share!).
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Old Oct 24th, 2005, 03:28 AM
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I returned from Malta and Gozo in June 05. What a great holiday, I loved it so much I am returning next year. I especially loved Gozo, the pace is slow and relaxed, the beaches clean. There is more to Gozo then meets the eye, be sure to spend more then a few days to really enjoy it. I stayed at Marsalforn also, however I stayed in a fully self contained flat which cost only 12LM a night, which was a bargin, the place was super clean, comfortable, convenient and had nice views. I found the bus system to be fine, just don't sit next to the door because they don't close them and all the fume come in. I used a taxi to do some sight seeing around Malta - the prices were resonalbe but be sure to bargin. I found the food a little ordinary after eating the same fair day after day. I highly recommend Malta and especially gozo. Can't wait to get back there.

Kay, I did the trip from Sydney to Malta with Emirates, and it was one hell of a long trip, especially the return leg with the 10hr lay over in Dubai. This time around I am going Malaysian Airlines - great price to Rome from where I will spend a couple of weeks doing Italy, finishing up in Sicily and catching the ferry to Valletta for 2 weeks in Gozo once again.
Cheers
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Old Oct 25th, 2005, 02:13 AM
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Hey Molly - nice to see another Australian willing to fly ALL that way! Malta is worth it though, we'd like to go back there. Did you book your place in Gozo on the internet? Can you give me the details for next time? Thanks.

Hi Felice592 - we used the buses quite a bit on Malta, they are very cheap. Usual fare was about Lm20c and once we got charged an adult fare for each of our backpacks which was quite funny but they did take up a seat. The popular routes get quite crowded and you might have to stand. Make sure you hang on tight!
The buses nearly all leave from Valletta and go back to Valletta so that made staying in Valletta a good choice. It's difficult to go by bus from one place to another (except Valletta obviously). You need to go back to Valletta and get another bus. You can get a really helpful brochure from the tourist office - just through the city gates - which lists all the bus numbers and where they go, with a map. You need to know which number bus to catch then look at the map to see where that bus number will be at the station. Each bus number has a spot allocated to it. Buses seem to run pretty regularly, we didn't wait more than about 15 mins. It helps to have the right change. You pay the driver as you get on. There is a booth at the station where you can ask questions if you need to.
We were a bit nervous about knowing where to get off. My husband had a big map and was mentally ticking off landmarks so we would know when we were close. You can always ask a local or the driver. We found people pretty helpful.
I had heard before we went that the drivers can be bad-tempered and the buses unreliable but we didn't find that at all.

If you have the opportunity to see the historical re-enactments at the fort (In Guardia was the one we saw), it's good fun. Get there at least 30 mins earlier to get a seat. We also enjoyed the Malta Experience down near the fort, to get an idea of the island's history.
Have a wonderful time.
Kay
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Old Oct 26th, 2005, 07:17 AM
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Thank you very much for your response. You have saved me the time it usually takes to get acclimated to the area, and made it easier to fulfill my duties in stocking supplies for breakfast, beverages and snacks.
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Old Oct 26th, 2005, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for your response, Kay! I feel much more reassured about getting around now. That was probaby the part that concerned me the most. We are going to be staying in Valetta, so it seems it should work out well! Also thanks for the suggestion about the historical re-enactments; I didn't get to see anything of the sort when I was there earlier, so I'll have to check it out. I'm definitely getting more excited about the trip after reading your words.
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Old Oct 26th, 2005, 06:35 PM
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It's a pleasure to be able to help! Hope you all enjoy your trips as much as we did. I felt quite sorry to leave Malta and Gozo and hope to go back one day.

Best wishes
Kay
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Old Nov 27th, 2005, 12:33 PM
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We just returned from 10 days in Sicily and 6 days in Malta and found your report more enjoyabloe now that we are familiar.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2005, 11:10 PM
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Hi Kay,

Thanks so much for your report, my husband and I are off to Malta in May 06 and yes we are Aussies too so not looking forward to the long flight, though we're doing Spain and Italy first. My husband's parents are Maltese(though unfortunately he never learnt to speak it)so we're looking forward to going.

We wanted to be near some nightclubs, bars, restaurants, etc and I've read that St Juliens is the place where all that happens, is that correct?

Unfortnuately his parents are not much help when it comes to this sort of stuff.

Thanks
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Old Dec 3rd, 2005, 09:19 PM
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To Angelblue - yes, St Julians and Paceville are the areas for nightclubs and bars. Sliema also has lots of restaurants and bars and is full of hotels and apartments. We stayed in Valletta which, to us, was much nicer but it can be quiet at night and we are not into bars or nightclubs. Just my opinion but I thought Valletta was full of character, atmosphere and charm and Sliema was soul-less and full of ugly concrete highrises. Each to their own.
If you have a look at the Lonely Planet Malta and Gozo book, they have a section on St Julians and Paceville with maps etc so you can see where it is and places to stay in the area. To give you an idea, we caught the bus from Sliema to Valletta and it took about 15 mins. The ferry from Valletta to Sliema took about 5 mins.
Hope this helps and hope you have a great time.
Kay
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