A Breath of Fresh Air in Seattle
Jun 30th, 2008, 01:41 PM
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A Breath of Fresh Air in Seattle
Arrived after a transcontinental train journey from the East Coast, stepping outside of King St. Station, my impression during my four day first ever visit of the Emerald City at 36 years old was… a breath of fresh air… the air tasted so fresh and oxygenated I felt I could swallow it in gulps, a fact not minor that would be an ever-present reminder of my presence on the Northwest Coast the entirety of my stay in the region.
The first thing that struck me was how hilly the city was as I only half-listened to my Aussie taxi driver badmouthing Seattle as he drove me up to my inn in Capitol Hill (I shouldn’t have asked how he liked it there). The Gaslight Inn, on the corner of 15th Ave and Howell St., was a real gem for its price, a beautiful home in tune with much of the rest of the charming architectural style that pervades Capitol Hill. Beautiful wood furnishings, a pool, views from a deck of downtown/Puget Sound/Olympic Mountains, continental breakfast with scones from 8am-10am, a helpful & friendly staff (you were awesome, Alyssa!) and best of all, a terrific location for exploring the city. The inn targets the Gay & Lesbian community especially but the clientele has a pleasant straight-Gay mix.
My first day-and-a-half (June 17th and 18th), as I’m wont to do when exploring a new city, was to explore my immediate environs. Exhausted after the train ride, I didn’t actually get going until around 4pm on the 17th and my first destination that beckoned me with a force beyond myself was the Pike Place Market. It’s about a 30 minute walk through Capitol Hill and downtown; I enjoyed the people-watching as I strolled through the Pike-Pine Corridor of Capitol Hill, what with lots of the youth stylishly looking like they belonged or wanted to belong to an rebellious indie alterno rock group. Lots of tattoos, mod haircuts, multicoloured hair, waifish styles, there’s even to my eyes a kind of a unique Seattle look unlike other North American cities I’ve been to…even at 36 years old, I find myself still smiling and happy when I see alternative expressions of individuality (however superficial they might be), especially when some looks are so much fun.
Pike Place Market I enjoyed, especially for the suspenders-wearing fishermen and their sing-song, playful calls as they threw the fish to one another. The smell of fresh fish on ice delightfully pervaded the air here, although numerous other items like flowers, fresh fruit were also on display as I meandered through the stalls. The seafood bisque at the chowder place by Sister’s was incredibly good, as I had expected it might be owing to the lineup waiting in front. On the way back, I picked up a salad and sandwich to eat for later, but found myself distracted by a park I observed walking down Broadway. Plopping myself on a bench nearby a reflecting pool and water cascading down a cone, I’d discovered what would be my favourite park in the city, Cal Anderson Park. While probably not the prettiest park I observed, it was the ambience that drew me to it…people out relaxing, kids dipping their feet in the water, dogs licking the water cascading down the side of the cone, folks reading a book, alterno guys and girls listening to a guitar player. I felt relaxed and content here and felt sorry it had taken me 36 years to discover Seattle.
The next day I meandered the side streets of Capitol Hill, my favourite neighbourhood of the city for its architectural style and beautiful creative gardens. I especially enjoyed the flowers that bloomed at the circulars at the street corners here. My goal was Volunteer Park, a beautiful peaceful green space resplendent with dahlias, tall trees and a peek-a-boo view of the Space Needle and Puget Sound beyond. A conservatory (greenhouse) is here, with a beautiful collection of plants (especially the bromeliads).
Next I was downtown for lunch (more seafood bisque
) and onto the monorail to Seattle Center. Although I initially balked at the $16 to go up to the top of the Space Needle, introspective arguments in my head like “it’s a one time thing” and “you’re nearly 37 years old and have not done this yet” and “c’mon” persuaded me to bite the bullet. Although apparently only the 7th tallest building in Seattle built during the Space Expo that introduced the microwave oven and touch-tone telephone, I was actually glad I went up for the panoramic perspective one gets from the observation deck. Seeing Lake Union, the Puget Sound, the Alki peninsula, amongst others, from up high, not only gave one a better sense of the dimensions of the city, but also was incredibly beautiful.
Since the elevator going down from the observation level plopped me off very blatantly in the Space Needle souvenir shop so I’d spend more money, I opted instead to not spend more money and walked over to the free #99 bus along the waterfront to Pioneer Square (streetcar is presently out of operation). Pioneer Square being the historic area of the city, at the moment of my arrival sadly seemed to be a gathering place for drunk Native Americans. I heard the Underground Tour from Doc Maynard’s was quite worthwhile; much of the original city from the 1800s is now apparently underground. Feeling uncertain about the neighbourhood’s vibe, I perhaps unfairly did not stay in the Pioneer Square area long enough to discover the tour.
June 19th my 3rd day, I caught the #43 bus from Capitol Hill up to the “U” District (buses are $1.50 non-peak hours, $1.75 peak hours; the sign on the change box of the bus as you enter tells you what you need to pay). In the morning, I enjoyed the Burke Museum at the University of Washington, whose exhibit Pacific Voices especially drew my attention, which looks at all peoples surrounding the Pacific including Japanese, Korean, Samoans, but I particularly appreciated enhancing my knowledge of Pacific Coast First Nations through the vehicle of this exhibit (since after all, I was visiting a territory that was exclusively infused with these cultures at one time).
I learned that Seattle was named after the Lushootseed chief See-alth, giving his name to the city only upon being convinced it was an honour. I was also captivated by an exhibit on the potlatch, a tradition practiced in the Pacific Northwest until outlawed by Canadian and US governments in the 1800s (re-allowed by Canada in 1951). As part of the potlatch ceremony, to my understanding men would go into the woods for several months, come back and play the role of the Hamat’sa, wearing loincloth and a beautiful wooden elongated, painted bird mask, dance in a frenzy, and possessed by a cannibal spirit, would pretend to threaten to bite members of the crowd, while cannibal birds (folks in other giant bird masks) would try to tame him. (We can just imagine the horror of the Puritan Europeans seeing this in the late 1800s.) Apparently, the potlatch was a ceremony through which possessions were shared and potlatch dances and songs were passed from generation to generation. (Potlatch names gave bearer ownership of certain songs and dances,) My explanation almost certainly does not begin to do justice to the beauty and supernatural aspects of the potlatch (and hopefully does not have inaccuracies), but long and short, it was fascinating to see the beautiful masks of the Kwakwaka’wakw and other Pacific Northwest Coast peoples, and learn about their traditions.
Walking down 45th St. from the Burke Museum, I rented a bike at Bob’s All-About-Cycles (37th Ave.) for $7/hr. and did a superlative North American bike ride along the Burke-Gilman Trail. I stopped for a Mexican lunch at Agua Verde, an efficient University of Washington student-popular restaurant which had great views of Lake Union, kayakers and Capitol Hill-style homes stacking up the shore opposite. Starting at Gas Works Park by Lake Union, I pedaled for around 45 minutes to an hour with the continual majesty of the snow-capped Cascade Mountains in front of me, not stopping until I reached Matthews Beach Park on Lake Washington. Sitting with my feet dangling in Lake Washington here, a vista so different from anything out east, looking out on those beautiful, snow-peaked mountains and tall trees on the shore opposite after a great bike workout, taking in that fresh air, I said to myself… “life truly does not get better than this”.
**Final Day in Seattle and first ever visit to Victoria BC to come…**
The first thing that struck me was how hilly the city was as I only half-listened to my Aussie taxi driver badmouthing Seattle as he drove me up to my inn in Capitol Hill (I shouldn’t have asked how he liked it there). The Gaslight Inn, on the corner of 15th Ave and Howell St., was a real gem for its price, a beautiful home in tune with much of the rest of the charming architectural style that pervades Capitol Hill. Beautiful wood furnishings, a pool, views from a deck of downtown/Puget Sound/Olympic Mountains, continental breakfast with scones from 8am-10am, a helpful & friendly staff (you were awesome, Alyssa!) and best of all, a terrific location for exploring the city. The inn targets the Gay & Lesbian community especially but the clientele has a pleasant straight-Gay mix.
My first day-and-a-half (June 17th and 18th), as I’m wont to do when exploring a new city, was to explore my immediate environs. Exhausted after the train ride, I didn’t actually get going until around 4pm on the 17th and my first destination that beckoned me with a force beyond myself was the Pike Place Market. It’s about a 30 minute walk through Capitol Hill and downtown; I enjoyed the people-watching as I strolled through the Pike-Pine Corridor of Capitol Hill, what with lots of the youth stylishly looking like they belonged or wanted to belong to an rebellious indie alterno rock group. Lots of tattoos, mod haircuts, multicoloured hair, waifish styles, there’s even to my eyes a kind of a unique Seattle look unlike other North American cities I’ve been to…even at 36 years old, I find myself still smiling and happy when I see alternative expressions of individuality (however superficial they might be), especially when some looks are so much fun.
Pike Place Market I enjoyed, especially for the suspenders-wearing fishermen and their sing-song, playful calls as they threw the fish to one another. The smell of fresh fish on ice delightfully pervaded the air here, although numerous other items like flowers, fresh fruit were also on display as I meandered through the stalls. The seafood bisque at the chowder place by Sister’s was incredibly good, as I had expected it might be owing to the lineup waiting in front. On the way back, I picked up a salad and sandwich to eat for later, but found myself distracted by a park I observed walking down Broadway. Plopping myself on a bench nearby a reflecting pool and water cascading down a cone, I’d discovered what would be my favourite park in the city, Cal Anderson Park. While probably not the prettiest park I observed, it was the ambience that drew me to it…people out relaxing, kids dipping their feet in the water, dogs licking the water cascading down the side of the cone, folks reading a book, alterno guys and girls listening to a guitar player. I felt relaxed and content here and felt sorry it had taken me 36 years to discover Seattle.
The next day I meandered the side streets of Capitol Hill, my favourite neighbourhood of the city for its architectural style and beautiful creative gardens. I especially enjoyed the flowers that bloomed at the circulars at the street corners here. My goal was Volunteer Park, a beautiful peaceful green space resplendent with dahlias, tall trees and a peek-a-boo view of the Space Needle and Puget Sound beyond. A conservatory (greenhouse) is here, with a beautiful collection of plants (especially the bromeliads).
Next I was downtown for lunch (more seafood bisque
) and onto the monorail to Seattle Center. Although I initially balked at the $16 to go up to the top of the Space Needle, introspective arguments in my head like “it’s a one time thing” and “you’re nearly 37 years old and have not done this yet” and “c’mon” persuaded me to bite the bullet. Although apparently only the 7th tallest building in Seattle built during the Space Expo that introduced the microwave oven and touch-tone telephone, I was actually glad I went up for the panoramic perspective one gets from the observation deck. Seeing Lake Union, the Puget Sound, the Alki peninsula, amongst others, from up high, not only gave one a better sense of the dimensions of the city, but also was incredibly beautiful. Since the elevator going down from the observation level plopped me off very blatantly in the Space Needle souvenir shop so I’d spend more money, I opted instead to not spend more money and walked over to the free #99 bus along the waterfront to Pioneer Square (streetcar is presently out of operation). Pioneer Square being the historic area of the city, at the moment of my arrival sadly seemed to be a gathering place for drunk Native Americans. I heard the Underground Tour from Doc Maynard’s was quite worthwhile; much of the original city from the 1800s is now apparently underground. Feeling uncertain about the neighbourhood’s vibe, I perhaps unfairly did not stay in the Pioneer Square area long enough to discover the tour.
June 19th my 3rd day, I caught the #43 bus from Capitol Hill up to the “U” District (buses are $1.50 non-peak hours, $1.75 peak hours; the sign on the change box of the bus as you enter tells you what you need to pay). In the morning, I enjoyed the Burke Museum at the University of Washington, whose exhibit Pacific Voices especially drew my attention, which looks at all peoples surrounding the Pacific including Japanese, Korean, Samoans, but I particularly appreciated enhancing my knowledge of Pacific Coast First Nations through the vehicle of this exhibit (since after all, I was visiting a territory that was exclusively infused with these cultures at one time).
I learned that Seattle was named after the Lushootseed chief See-alth, giving his name to the city only upon being convinced it was an honour. I was also captivated by an exhibit on the potlatch, a tradition practiced in the Pacific Northwest until outlawed by Canadian and US governments in the 1800s (re-allowed by Canada in 1951). As part of the potlatch ceremony, to my understanding men would go into the woods for several months, come back and play the role of the Hamat’sa, wearing loincloth and a beautiful wooden elongated, painted bird mask, dance in a frenzy, and possessed by a cannibal spirit, would pretend to threaten to bite members of the crowd, while cannibal birds (folks in other giant bird masks) would try to tame him. (We can just imagine the horror of the Puritan Europeans seeing this in the late 1800s.) Apparently, the potlatch was a ceremony through which possessions were shared and potlatch dances and songs were passed from generation to generation. (Potlatch names gave bearer ownership of certain songs and dances,) My explanation almost certainly does not begin to do justice to the beauty and supernatural aspects of the potlatch (and hopefully does not have inaccuracies), but long and short, it was fascinating to see the beautiful masks of the Kwakwaka’wakw and other Pacific Northwest Coast peoples, and learn about their traditions.
Walking down 45th St. from the Burke Museum, I rented a bike at Bob’s All-About-Cycles (37th Ave.) for $7/hr. and did a superlative North American bike ride along the Burke-Gilman Trail. I stopped for a Mexican lunch at Agua Verde, an efficient University of Washington student-popular restaurant which had great views of Lake Union, kayakers and Capitol Hill-style homes stacking up the shore opposite. Starting at Gas Works Park by Lake Union, I pedaled for around 45 minutes to an hour with the continual majesty of the snow-capped Cascade Mountains in front of me, not stopping until I reached Matthews Beach Park on Lake Washington. Sitting with my feet dangling in Lake Washington here, a vista so different from anything out east, looking out on those beautiful, snow-peaked mountains and tall trees on the shore opposite after a great bike workout, taking in that fresh air, I said to myself… “life truly does not get better than this”.
**Final Day in Seattle and first ever visit to Victoria BC to come…**
Jun 30th, 2008, 03:46 PM
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Daniel,
What a beautifully written, heartfelt trip report! I'm so glad you enjoyed your visit here and your words reminded me only too well why I am willing to put up with winters and springs like we had last year to live here and enjoy a truly beautiful place (and yes, I so agree with you about the air--I notice every time I travel and return).
Thanks so much for your delightful trip report.
What a beautifully written, heartfelt trip report! I'm so glad you enjoyed your visit here and your words reminded me only too well why I am willing to put up with winters and springs like we had last year to live here and enjoy a truly beautiful place (and yes, I so agree with you about the air--I notice every time I travel and return).
Thanks so much for your delightful trip report.
Jun 30th, 2008, 06:31 PM
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June 19th on the Burke-Gilman Trail had been such an amazing day, June 20th seemed to be cooperative as the sun had come out quite early (earlier days started out cloudy although significant clear sky appeared by afternoon). By suggestion of a Seattleite who had taken the Empire Builder with me, I took the Elliott Bay Water Taxi for $3 across the Puget Sound to near Alki Beach. This ride is a gorgeous way to get out on the Puget Sound for those with limited budget; this final amazing day, Mount Rainier had finally appeared out of the mist in its full white sloped majesty on one side of the ship and the Olympic Mountain Range was equally in full splendour. The ferry landed, I walked for about an hour along the Alki peninsula to the restaurant area near Alki Beach with the white-capped Olympics as partners all along the way. Dipping my feet in the waters by the sandbars of Alki Beach, along with the cranes (birds, not metal) and gulls… beach and mountains and snow and sky, the refrain of yesterday “life truly does not get better than this”… peace contentment suffused my being.
As I packed up my things to leave the Gaslight Inn June 21st and head off on the Victoria Clipper, I felt so happy that my train ride and sufficient curiosity had introduced me to the Emerald City. If life had brought me here as a younger man before I’d settled in here in Montreal, Seattle certainly would have had a pull on me. Seattleites, you’ve got a gorgeous city; I hope you realize not everyone gets to live amidst such beauty and treasure it…
**Next installment: Onward to Canada and the capital of British Columbia**
As I packed up my things to leave the Gaslight Inn June 21st and head off on the Victoria Clipper, I felt so happy that my train ride and sufficient curiosity had introduced me to the Emerald City. If life had brought me here as a younger man before I’d settled in here in Montreal, Seattle certainly would have had a pull on me. Seattleites, you’ve got a gorgeous city; I hope you realize not everyone gets to live amidst such beauty and treasure it…
**Next installment: Onward to Canada and the capital of British Columbia**
Jun 30th, 2008, 06:50 PM
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Love your trip report! I'm so glad you enjoyed Seattle. I don't think I will ever cease being awed by the beauty here. Some people hate the dark skies, though. Someone once described it like this: "Moving to Seattle is like marrying a beautiful woman who is sick all the time."
Jul 1st, 2008, 11:55 AM
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Here's the Victoria portion from the Canada forum for those who are interested...
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...9&tid=35141002
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...9&tid=35141002
Jul 2nd, 2008, 07:41 AM
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Perhaps not so many Seattle visitors will be interested in the prequel to my Seattle visit, the Empire Builder train, but I include it just in case... Funny enough, if it hadn't been for my love of trains and desire to experience the Empire Builder, I might not have visited the great city that is Seattle so soon!
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35140565
1JAR-- Enjoy! Hope the weather is as great for outdoor activity as it was for me.
Suze-- I hope you realize what a terrific neighbourhood you live in near the Gaslight... love those circulars of flowers at street intersections in Capitol Hill!
Artlover/Orcas-- Glad to hear that as a resident you're not jaded by such beauty. I think it's worth slogging through the rainy, grey days for the idyllic ones with great beauty... Anyhow, most places I know of have some kind of weather drawback or another (too hot/humid, frigidly cold winters, etc...). Love that quote about the beautiful woman!
DAN
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35140565
1JAR-- Enjoy! Hope the weather is as great for outdoor activity as it was for me.
Suze-- I hope you realize what a terrific neighbourhood you live in near the Gaslight... love those circulars of flowers at street intersections in Capitol Hill!
Artlover/Orcas-- Glad to hear that as a resident you're not jaded by such beauty. I think it's worth slogging through the rainy, grey days for the idyllic ones with great beauty... Anyhow, most places I know of have some kind of weather drawback or another (too hot/humid, frigidly cold winters, etc...). Love that quote about the beautiful woman!
DAN
Jul 7th, 2008, 03:42 AM
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I'm so glad you made it to Seattle after all! And shared your trip report with us. I'll catch the Empire Builder and Vancouver trip reports later, but I'm glad I found this one this morning to read with my coffee before work!
