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Another Ambitious Aussie's Awsome American Adventure

Another Ambitious Aussie's Awsome American Adventure

Old Nov 9th, 2007, 01:27 AM
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Another Ambitious Aussie's Awsome American Adventure

Things have been very busy at work since I returned four weeks ago, but here is my attempt at a trip report. My trip was a great success, thanks in no small part to the great suggestions I discovered here on Fodors. Most of my hotels and some of the places I ate I found out about here and then were all the great ideas, walking tours and handy hints that made it possible for me to use my time efficiently. Of course there were those who suggested I had taken on too much, but I did almost everything I had planned with very few regrets. Naturally I didn’t see everything there is to see, that would take a lifetime, but I think I covered quite a lot and got to see a few different parts of the US. What’s more, I was back at work the day after I arrived home and worked out the week with no jet lag and not much more fatigued than usual.
The one thing I did that I was very hesitant about was renting a car. I was petrified at the thought of driving by myself and on the “wrong” side of the road but it turned out not to be a problem at all. I even drove on the LA freeways! So much of what I saw and did wouldn’t have been possible otherwise and those experiences were probably the highlights of my trip. So to those Aussies and others who hesitate to drive in the US, I’d say “Go ahead”.

Saturday 22nd September 2007
California Here I Come
I departed Perth, Western Australia at 6.00 am and after flying to Sydney, transferring to the International terminal and enduring flight of about 14 hours, arrived in San Francisco at approximately 10.30 am that same day. No major drama. My luggage was booked through form Perth but Qantas’s terminal transfer process seemed somewhat chaotic. By contrast, the transfer on the return leg was smooth and well organized.
.
I was further surprised by the shuttle bus system (or lack thereof) at SFO but I was soon on a shuttle, getting an introductory tour of San Francisco hotel locations and eventually arrived at the Cow Hollow Motor Inn. I left my luggage there and wandered down to Chestnut Street where I easily found Ritz Camera shop (which was the the place to buy the cheapo prepaid cell phone I had researched online. I didn’t used it much but it was handy a couple of times) By the time I’d had a coffee and bite to eat at Peet’s and a browse around Williams-Sonoma, it was time to check into the hotel. Cow Hollow is a great area of shops and cafes, somewhat off the main tourist track but just a short bus trip from where it's all happening.

After I’d settled in and freshened up, I caught a bus towards the Fisherman's Wharf - though I didn't actually make as far as the actual wharf area. I visited Ghiradelli Square, bought some chocolates. Loved the shop there called Yap Wraps where all kinds of dog outfits were for sale, including Halloween costumes. I bought a Muni pass but passed on waiting for a cable car when I saw there was an hour's wait.
I had a very late lunch at In and Out burger which I'm told is the California thing. What can I say? It's a burger. There was a display on at Hyde’s Pier which I visited briefly but by now I was fading fast so it was back to the hotel. I had some of “Grandma’s Chicken Soup” and a “Homemade Berry Pie” at the Mel’s Diner across the road from the hotel as I was starting to feel a little fragile. Then it was an early night. I hadn’t slept much on the plane so it had been a very long day
Sunday 23rd September
When You Go To San Francisco Be Sure To Wear Some Flowers In Your Hair
My first stop next morning was the shop where I had bought my cell phone. I hadn’t been able to get it to charge. I’d tried every power point and they worked and had charged my camera and my IPod. Naturally I assumed I’d been sold a defective phone or charger. After some discussion at the shop, I mentioned I was staying in a hotel and “A-ha” she said. Sure enough, when she plugged it into an outlet in the store, it started charging right away. Has anyone else heard that hotels rig their power outlets so they won’t charge phones?
Breakfast was at Home Plate, a local cafe with rave reviews posted in window from various newspapers. French toast was two slabs of bread with egg thrown on top, two tiny pieces of air dried bacon and eggs with lemon coloured yolks. A little thing I imagine they think is a sultana scone with brown apple sauce (I think) When I asked for milk with my English Breakfast tea, the guy thought I wanted a glass of milk!

I set off for Alamo Square but missed the bus by seconds. So I set off to walk UP Fillmore Street to the next stop- and I do mean UP. Of course, the bus does a detour around this really steep section, so it was quite a way before I eventually got the bus. Still, it was an interesting walk past cafes, small designer shops etc and the Sunday breakfast crowd out and about. I finally reached the Alamo Square area where there are heaps of decorative Victorian style houses and then followed the guide book's tour past houses of Janis Joplin etc till I reached the Haight area, site of all the 60's hippie activity. A few bong shops but otherwise seemed just another shopping street to me.

Next stop was the Golden Gate Park which was a busy Sunday afternoon in the park- lots of rollerbladers, cyclists etc and a Music festival - Zen and Now. I visited Conservatory and Giant Fern glade and then to the Japanese garden. I was very impressed with it, it's very extensive and could well be in Japan. By this time, it was getting late. I had intended to visit the De Young museum but didn't have time to do it or the admission fee justice. Briefly visited the Botanic gardens - cute squirrels-and tried to visit the Shakespeare garden, which was closed for a wedding.

Retraced my steps by bus - confirming that I had indeed walked a loooooong way. I collected the phone and rushed to catch another bus. I had to be in town by 5.00 for my reservation to Beach Blanket Babylon which was very funny and enjoyable. The jokes were corny and came thick and fast and they never belaboured the point. Good singing too. This was one of the great suggestions from Fodors which I otherwise wouldn’t have known about. Very San Francisco.

When it finished it was still light and I was very close to Mason Street so I rode a cable car to he turnaround at Union Square and then back to its terminus at North Point. For dinner had a Cajun Cooler and some Cioppino at Lou’s Blues and back to the hotel.

Monday 24th September 2007
San Francisco Open Your Golden Gate
Monday was a beautiful sunny day so I rented a bike from Balzng Saddles and set off to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge. So did heaps of others and many pedestrians. I had bruises all over my legs from some of my sudden stops. I rode to Sausalito, a very picturesque town on the bay, strolled around for a while and then caught the ferry back to town. This was possibly one of the highlights of my trip and I just loved Saualito. Only glitch was that when you get to the Ferry Building, your bikes are on a different level and you have to heave them up a flight of stairs. A good time to forget all about Women’s Lib and look helpless. Well, there’s no way I could even lift the bike, let alone get it up stairs.

Because I had taken my time and missed the ferry I should have caught, I didn't have time to do the walking tour I had planned. I had invested in Bakalinsky’s “Stairway Walks in San Francisco” but didn’t get to do any of the walks in it. Something for next time. I chained up the bike and explored the Ferry Building with its gourmet shops and restaurants. I then rode along the Embarcadero and returned the bike. Next I caught the F street car downtown and back to fill in the time before the Alcatraz night tour. Back to the Ferry Building, I treated myself to some Napa valley wine and a sampler platter of various oysters at Hog Island Oyster Co. I sure picked a fantastic night for it - views of SF at dusk and the full moon. Alcatraz was pretty interesting and the night tour was a good way to do it without taking a big chunk out of a day, plus to opportunity to see SF skyline from the water at night. After the Alcatraz tour I had the Clam chowder in the sourdough roll thing at Boudins.

So that basically was San Francisco - a brief overview and I didn't get to Chinatown or Little Italy and heaps more, so I've left things to see next time.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 01:52 AM
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Great report - sounds like you did heaps! Did you find it difficult at all travelling on your own?

From another Aussie who loves to visit America.
Kay
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 01:58 AM
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I certainly did - never a dull moment. I didn't have any problems traveling alone. I've done it before in Japan and Europe. I still find it a challenge eating out and there's those things you don't do without someone with you. The one time I found it depressing was at Disneyland! You really should have someone with you there. I wished I had been able to take my kids when they were younger Well, when they were kids.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 02:12 AM
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Good on you for going - lots of people would hesitate going on their own and miss out on a great trip! Assume there is more to come? Would love to read about the rest of your trip.
Kay
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 02:35 AM
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Entertaining report. I enjoyed reading it!
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 02:45 AM
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Oh there sure is more. It's great fun reliving it.

Tuesday 25th September 2007
Do You Know The Way To San Jose?

After a breakfast at Mel’s Diner I checked out of the hotel and caught a cab to Bush street to pick up the rental car. I was terrified.Talk about a baptism of fire - the Alamo car rental place was right in the center of downtown. However, they were very busy and after a long wait it appeared they had run out of cars. I was taken to their other center where I picked up my little Pontiac and then it was onto to freeway. Major freak out, but it turned out to be the easy way to adjust. It’s hard not to feel guilty being over in the right hand lane. At home that’s the overtaking lane. It was lucky no-one was in the car with me; they’d have been annoyed that every time I saw a sign to San Jose I burst into song.
The drive down to Monterey was pleasant enough I drove through strawberry fields with groups of workers that looked like a scene from Grapes of Wrath. I did a detour to visit Santa Cruz but didn’t stop. I had organized a GPS system which was very helpful, but only when you know where you’re going. I stopped for lunch as planned at Phil's Fish Shack. I nearly drove right past it – I was sure I was in the wrong placeBack on the road, I managed to get caught up in peak hour traffic but eventually arrived at the Asilomar Conference Centre.

After checking in, I went for a walk along the boardwalk by the ocean. On my return I felt itchy and next thing I knew I had broken out into a huge rash. I was quite alarmed not knowing if it was stress, I had been bitten or was allergic to the room or something else (there was some construction going on nearby) Fortunately I had some antihistime (non-drowsy type) so I took a tablet and drove into Monterey where it explored the Cannery etc. Would have enjoyed it more had I not been itchy and concerned. Eventually the rash and the itching settled down and I drove back via Carmel. It was just sunset as I arrived so it was lovely and peaceful and very charming. Some of the shops were still open so I had a lovely time browsing in shops where I could afford nothing, then went back to the room. The itch didn’t return and I had the best night’s sleep with the sound of the ocean instead of traffic.
Wednesday 26th September 2007
Monterey
Breakfast was included at Asilomar and I shared a table with some lovely ladies on a walking tour. The breakfast was a set menu but there was also a vegetarian choice. It was appetizing and plentiful.

I began the day with the 17 mile drive through Pebble Beach and the other golf courses, luxury homes and the Lone Cyprus, which was very picturesque. This area would be a lovely spot for a retirement home if you were very wealthy. I saw a couple of deer (maybe elk) on someone's front yard, lots of seals etc.
Next stop was Point Lobos State Reserve which was also very scenic and then the drive along the coast to Big Sur and beyond. It was certainly very scenic and that part of the coast wasn't too hair-raising. I stopped frequently in the 'turnouts' but the poor little camera and my words are inadequate to do the vista justice.

I stopped for lunch as planned at Nepenthe which has great views of the ocean through the tree tops. I read a lot of differing opinions on Nepenthe’s but I think it’s worth a stop. My meal wasn’t a budget experience but it’s rather special location makes up for it. Well worth the stop. Then it was onto the scary part of the drive, very winding road with big drops down on the right side. One did not make a lot of speed in these parts.

I really enjoyed my drive down the coast. I stopped off in plenty of places to take pictures or just for a look and a break from driving. I even went for a couple of very short hikes. I didn’t rush and the only thing I missed was stopping to see the elephant seals. It was nearly dusk when I got to Cambria and checked into the Moonstone Landing Inn. Very nice, right across from the beach and a glimpse of the sea from my window. A stroll along the beach at sunset and for dinner I zapped a frozen pasta in the microwave and watched a couple of DVDs in bed. Luxury.

Thursday 27th September 2007
Am I headed in the Right Direction?
The weather had been glorious so far but today started off gloomy – though I wasn’t sure if it was fog, or just overcast. First event of the day was the tour of Hearst castle. I had booked online for the 9.00 tour so I had to rush the breakfast, which was a shame as there was plenty of yummy foods available a lovely patio to sit on to eat it. I did the Experience tour. It’s certainly a slick operation. Lovely pool area, guest cottage assembly hall and dining hall were on the tour I did. Just the drive up to the top of the hill was pretty amazing. This guy certainly knew how to spend his money. The wall paneling in the dining hall was choir stalls from some old church in Europe - a Spanish monastery if I recall correctly. The architect Julia Morgan was the same one who designed Asilomar but this must have been her dream job - spare no expense! Though, I imagine he was hard to please....

I then drove onto San Luis Obispo, where I had lunch at the Madonna Inn with its ornate decor.
I drove through the wine country - Los Olivos, Santa Ynes, etc but didn't stop at any of the wineries. I had left the maps I had downloaded on the computer and the GPS wasn’t very helpful. I did a brief stop at Solvang, a fako Danish village that looks more Danish than the parts Denmark I saw did! Full of twee artsy crafty shops and cafes. Then I made a bit of a wrong decision and set off to Santa Barbara on Highway 154 which took a long and very scenic trip through the mountains which I would have enjoyed much more if I had had a) more time b) more petrol and c) the certainty that I was headed in the right direction.

I overnighted at the Coast Village Inn, a modest little motel in Montecito, a rather pleasant area just south of Santa Barbara. This was the last place I booked and all the ones recommended were unavailable. I picked this on Expedia. It was, I think, the least expensive place I stayed in (Moonstone Landing being the most expensive). Very modest motel, but quite adequate for one night. Dinner was at a Mexican restaurant, Los Arroyos, complete with guitarist. It was a lovely evening for patio dining.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 03:12 AM
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GREAT report and thanks for taking the time to post it.

I hope every single one of those old fogies here who whined about how you are 'trying to do too much" reads it and changes their rocking-chair minds!!!
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 03:45 AM
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hi eigasuki,

lovely trip report. was just in some parts of your trip last august/september for my honeymoon (wedding was in yosemite). did you get to see anymore of big sur than just nepenthe and the drive? it's gorgeous there.

you had really great recommendations for SF so will bookmark this thread for future use. Many thanks!

oh, and i think it's absolutely wonderful that you are comfortable travelling by yourself! Kudos (sp?) to you!
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 03:48 AM
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Indeed, Dukey. Different strokes for different folks. Some folk like to spend there vacation sitting around a swimming pool or lazing an a beach. I can do that at home.
Friday 28th September 2007

Hooray For Hollywood

After the modest complimentary breakfast, I headed into the centre of Santa Barbara and did the Red Roof Walking Tour around the historic area. Everything is lush and green with building built in Spanish style of red roofs and white walls etc. This part of Santa Barbara looks like a place you would be happy to live in. I was intrigued to discover a supermarket and the firestation housed in historic, Spanish style buildings. After wandering around downtown Santa Barbara I headed to the Santa Barbara Mission, which I found to be quite interesting.
Then, gulp, it was off to L.A.. I headed south in Highway 101 which was a good road and the temptation to speed was indulged by the other road users who passed me as if I was standing still. And I was having to remind myself how fast 70 mph is - I don't think that's the speed limit.
At Oxnard I branched off to the Pacific Coast Highway, which was much more peaceful. I was glad to leave the main freeway as it was starting to get very busy and the scenery built up and urban. For a moment I thought I had made a mistake as I drove through market gardens and factories but eventually I saw the Malibu signs and knew I was on the right track. In some places it was only one lane and I was the only car headed south, which made me think of the movie "Escape From LA". Did all those cars headed in the opposite direction know something I didn't?

The road wound around the coast and in places was lined with RV vehicles parked right on the edge of the road and seemingly set up camp. Eventually it became more built up with all those houses built right on the beach on one side that you see in the movies and on TV. They are right on the main highway with only a parking lane between them and us.

I drove through Malibu and made it three out of three with another Fodor’s lunch, this time at Duke's. Very LA –and my first experience with valet parking. Having braved the coast road, I was now faced with my biggest challenge yet – driving into L.A. and on a Friday afternoon. Sustained with food, I headed off and somehow ended up on the Santa Monica freeway but the GPS bossy lady got it sorted and we arrived at my hotel, the Hollywood Celebrity Hotel. It's right behind the Hollywood and Highland center so I was soon checked in and then checking out the stars – the ones on the pavement that is.
After all that excitement it was laundry and an early night.


Saturday 29th September 2007
When You Wish Upon a Star
Saturday it was time to do that thing every kid wants to do but Aussie kids in the 60s seldom got to do – Disneyland. But it’s never too late, right? So I braved the Santa Ana Freeway and arrived in one piece at Disneyland. Parking was a breeze - a very slick operation had you directed to a spot and given a card so you could record where you parked, then onto the tram which took you to the gates.

I had a really fun day, went on quite a few rides; Pirates of the Caribbean, Big Thunder Railway, Matterhorn Bobsleds and tame things like the Pinocchio ride and the Alice in Wonderland teacups, which I always wanted to do, every time I saw it on Disneyland on Sunday nights. I spent most time in the Frontier land and New Orleans area, rode the Mark Twain riverboat and paddled the Indian canoes.



The whole park is decorated in Halloween theme with pumpkins and orange bunting everywhere. I've never seen so much orange. Or so many strollers. After the last week having been relatively child free - I hardly saw a kid in San Francisco even though it was a weekend and of course there were very few in evidence during the week, not even little kids.

I left the park about 5ish, just in time to see the patriotic ceremonial taking down of the flag. The freeway back was very slow, which in a way was preferable, not much to do except wait and a chance for a bit of a look around.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 04:21 AM
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What a great trip you've had! I admire you for taking on driving on the other side of the road in busy, crowded cities! I could not do it. What a woman!
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 07:41 AM
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Great report -

Just a side note; the reason you might find that some of the hotel electrical outlets wouldn't charge your phone overnight is that they are hooked to the light switch. It may be an American thing to have lamps plugged into wall outlets and controlled by the wall switch (and sometimes the double outlet is split in half, with half on the switch and half always on).

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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 08:03 AM
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"Has anyone else heard that hotels rig their power outlets so they won’t charge phones?" - that's a shock! Never happened to me anywhere in the US nor on the RCCL ship!

Enjoying your report!
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 08:13 AM
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Fantastic report - it sounds like you had a wonderful and adventurous time. We (and it is "we" -- I haven't tried this by myself yet) never sit still when we travel, and love to travel to places we've never been (although I can say, the first time we drove on the "wrong side of the road", I could have lived without the number of curb bumps we did. It's no wonder London has "Look left" and "look right" painted right on the street! Sounds great.
 
Old Nov 9th, 2007, 08:17 AM
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Greatly enjoying reading this trip report! And I second the kudos to you for the solo traveling. Are you (and subsequent poster Kay) aware of the site:
journeywoman.com

a great, and supportive, resource designed for women who travel alone?

Look forward to reading more.....
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 08:56 AM
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Hi eigasuki---

Great report... I'm most jealous of your moment enjoying oysters with a view of the bay. I'm really glad that you enjoyed your trip. Where to next?

And since you're an experienced solo traveler---where in your corner of the woods would you recommend a solo traveler to venture? Sorry to veer slightly off course but I though I would just see if there was one definitive city/region in Australia that you think is especially fun to explore solo.

You should post a link to this report in the solo traveler forum if you haven't already.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 10:12 AM
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I'm most jealous of your moment enjoying oysters with a view of the bay.

Glad you got to enjoy it...you know we had a pretty big oil spill several nights ago.
 
Old Nov 9th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Great trip report! Looking forward to reading the rest.

Lee Ann
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 03:19 PM
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Love reading your report. A dear Australian friend of mine just brought her 14-year-old daughter to California for her first U.S. visit...she was thrilled with the squirrels! Glad you liked them too.
Aussies are amazing travelers and you certainly have outdone most of them I know. Will look forward to the rest of your reports.
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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 04:17 PM
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Great report eigasuki -

I doubt I'd be comfortable on some of the CA roads you tackled, and I'm used to driving on the right!

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Old Nov 9th, 2007, 08:48 PM
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Just a great trip report! Thanks for posting.

I met a young Australian farmer last year at a Goethe Institute in Germany. Interesting guy who has visted some unique places--the site of the Murrah Federal Building in Oklahoma (which was, of course, blown up by Timothy McVeigh), the place in Louisiana where Bonny and Clyde were ambushed and killed by federal agents, and Stalingrad. Yes, Stalingard! He said the people there couldn't understand why he would visit there.

He also visited farms in California, but I guess that was because of professional interest.
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