monpetit

We, family of 3, father(Erik), Mother(Anny) and daughter(Salome) were back in this west part.
In 2012 and 2013, Salome thought that her social life did not need hikes, wildlife,nature...but after 2 years off, finally she decide to come back. Last year we were in Glacier for 3 weeks(no enough times for the trip report, i will try next month to do it..) and this year back in Wyoming.
We found that there have been some changes and not in the good direction...
We arrive Sunday, July the 26th and end our trip Friday, August the 14th.

We land in Billings(Paris/Billings, via salt lake City, Delta flights) : no problem, food always bad(perhaps the salad are a real "improvement"..).
We took our rental car- a suburban Chevy at Alamo. Big car because we need rooms for our luggages and all we need for hiking : coolers, waters, cans,...

First night : Best Western Clocktower in downtown. easy to find but we did not understand why it's a BW "plus" ...basic rooms, no real restaurant for the breakfast,...
After check in(more it's on computer, more it's long...) and direction the supermarket : bread, waters, cereals, cans, fruits, cheese ...All we need for 18 days of hike and we were not so bad as finally we will need only once to buy some drinks and we had only 2 cans of fruits, one of breast chicken and one of tuna not used at the end...
We dine at Walkers : good steakhouse and there was a jazz session. "Fortunately" we were on the "side" room because after our long trip to be too near the orchestra could have been difficult.
Pickles vegetable and Ceasar were shared and then salmon for Anny, lamb bolognese for Salome and a sirloin for me. We share 2 chocolate cake souffle and it was the only average item : a little too cooked.
And a first comment even if we are now accustomed with that...
Why did a lot of people keep their baseball caps or hat while dining IN a restaurant ?? Not so good etiquette with the ladies... It can be usefull outdoor for the sun...But indoor ??

After a basic breakfast, we decide as we were not too far to visit Little Big Horn Battelefield. It was sort of icon for Anny and I, less known for Salome(the westerns moovies or comics are no more common in our european countries...).
A site which give a lot to thnk...Good idea to share both "civilisations"(and more surprising, learn that this community of reconnaissanec has been done by G Bush..). But why so a distinction between the graves...(white for the US army, red marble for the indians...).I know it is history but now, perhaps time to non distinct the men...
Then, road to Red Lodge. As the weather was nice at LBHbattlefield we hoped to do a small hike in Red Lodge...In fact we arrive with a thunderstorm...Heavy rain, cold...
We stop at the ranger station and take some prospectus for the next days, and then we had lunch at Bridge Creek Backcountry bakery. Soup and Classic ceasar with (very good) smoked trout, and then Bison burgers. All was good. We did not take dessert as we have noticed the candy store and that was our desserts...
Then, we check in at The Pollard, our base for 3 nights.
Standard room for Salome and we were upgraded in a suite, Anny and I.
It's large, well furnished but some improvement needed in the housemaid...
No change every day in the coffee maker, and some papers were left on the floor for the first 2 nights...But overall nothing too bad.
I use the fitness room at that day as we cannot hike.
The rest of the day was "shopping"...There are some nice little shops in Red Lodge(don't think about the last mode items but some typic western items...).
We dine at the Carbon County steakhouse and it will be our adress for the 3 nights...
We love a lot their Wild mushrooms sauteed which was great part of our return...nad we try lot of entrees : notably bison ribeye(very good), bison shortribs(more than good...), Lobster Mcn cheese(salome try it : good), and some others appetizers( goatcheese salad, Mozarella coins..).
All was good, desserts less attractive, good choice of berres(i try a lot of microbrexery beers this year..) and also good wines by the glass..

The day after we hike(as the weather was terrific in the good sense : sun...) : West fork trail till Sundance lake . It's a 8 miles out(and so 8 miles...back) .Not too difficult. Nice woods and views. Due to the bad weather of the day before, some fresh snows on the mountains to give a "postal card's " view...Ideal for a first hike. On teh way back, 150 yards from trailhead chance to see mother moose with calf...Perfect to end the day...
Relax and diner.

On the Wednesday we hike the Lake Fork trail, till september morn lake with the spur to Keyser Brown lake : 8 miles x 2 plus 0.6 x 2 and so 17.2 miles. One more time not so difficult with some elevation after the bridge on the creek. Very nice views and on the slope to the lake, the views on Rock lakes and the mountain circus around are a must.
On that day we saw a moose on the way in, a very "dark" one-certainly the darker we saw since we begin to hike in Montana/Wyoming, 8 years ago...
Those 2 hikes give us a good feeling on Red Lodge area and we'll certainly be back...
Breakfast were taken at the Pollard : good granola and also nibe smoked salmon with bagel...Perhaps a smoked trout could be also a good idea. But the coffee is always for us european a mistery...How could it be so...bad ??

On thursday, our first "migration"...We drive Beartooth highway-splendid to Cooke City and then Yellowstone.
We stopped twice on the road to take some pictures as the views are really worth it...
We hike to Becker lake from Island lake trailhead. It's 8-9 miles out and back(depend /difefrent topos..). Very nice, with the begenning very popular but at the end(Jeff and Mutt lakes) and the uphill to Becker relatively quiet(we wre only 5 on that day). Very nice site and also nice ideas for future trips..
We have been enchanted by those 3 days in Beartooh/Absaroka Wilderness. We have to "work" to find some adress to sleep as if Red Lodge is a good base for the east part it's a too long drive for the higher and western part...
We stop at Cooke City and had a good huckleberry ice cream (the first of the trip..).

We drive to Yellowstone and as we were for 3 weeks we bought the annual pass(our next trip in 2016 will be also on that pass..).
The programm was to hike lamar creek trail to see the bisons...The trailhead is the one at Soda Butte creek. In fact we hike only the firs 1.5 miles as there were no bisons and it was very hot...
We were very surprised on the lack of bisosn and salome who is really a big fan and expect that first encounter with impatience was really disppointed...
We drive again and finally we found the biosns on the far end of Lamar valley but a real big herd...
There were far in the valley but they were romaing and "the show" was terrific... We find a nice place to park the car and so we can see them WITHOUT be an obstacle for the others...
And began what we found a big change since our last visit 5 years ago...
From the end of lamar valley to Lale Yellowstone lake cabins we undergo 2 bsions jam and not little. Between Slough creek jonction and Tower jonction, half an hour to drive 1.5 miles oand on hayden valley, 2 hours to drive 3 miles...
Cars stopping on the middle of the road(and no bisons on the road..bisons on the prairies..), people running in all the directions...Kind of big circusd, no rangers to give some good discipline...
5-6 years ago we did not remind tghis. cars were well parked, people in and out only if wild life was far...
This year we saw a father saying to his daughet : "run ,run near jt and so i can take a picture...., and the daughter runned counter traffic for 200 yards in direction of the herd...Crazy think, crazy people...
It is not the advice which are missing : it is written on the prospectus, on the newspaper...
But what we notice it is the less nulmerous presence of the rangers... And perhaps some fines but really big fines(300-400$ or more) and so discipline will come back???
It's dangerous for the animals, dangerous for the people(we saw bikers driving in the middle of a crossing herd and laughing...).
And more the respect of others need to let free the road for people whio didn't like "road wild life...".

After this episode we arrive at Lake Lodge Cabins.
We were there for 4 nights. Always quiet and we were on a upper block...but why with a more than one year old reservation and a 4 nights stay we had the only rooms which face the parking lot from the windows and not the woods...???
Always the same respons : late check in...And this is a common US policy that we did not understand...
Theorically the "good" rooms are for the first reservation and it can been adapted also to the lenght of the sejour...In US not..
It is first come first served...And so you can have a good room even with one night stay and a reservation made the day before..
And the poor hikers who arrive late because they hiked...The bad rooms...
And if you argue with the manager in duty??? "We'll see tomorrow what we can do"...Easy ...So choice of waiting till 10-11 am to make the change and you loose one half day or you hike and you keep the bad room...
When i was student I've worked two years in an hotel and the manager tell me : "when someone phone for a reservation you give him the best room we had in the category he choose THE DAY OF THE CALL, not the day he arrives...)..After , effectively you can adjust with the duration(more you stay, best is the room...).
As the traffic is not heavy the nights were good but on the morning it's better to have a nice view th&an the parking lot when you wake up...

To be continued...

Nelson

I'm enjoying this report. We will be going to Yellowstone next year in September, for the first time in many years. We also have 4 nights booked at Lake Lodge Cabins. We'll arrive early.

You are right about the crazy things people do these days. Seems like every year there is at least one case of someone killed or maimed by wildlife due to a misguided photo-op.

Slw

I'm also enjoying your report and eagerly awaiting more. We leave for Grand Teton and Yellowstone next Thursday.

monpetit

Just noticed that it is tagged Utah while I choosed Montana and Wyoming...
I did not remeber the process to correct...
After installation in rooms, we walked to the lakeshore and Anny "taste" the water's temperature and surprise...it was deecent...so she swimm just before dinner...She was frustated because she did not swimm in Beartooth...
It was time for the diner.we had made reservation. Despite that, we had to wait 15 mn and got a table in an inner corner near the kichen's door ..
Appetizers were duck and wild mushrooms'risotto for Salome, spinash and kale salad for Anny and lamb sliders for me. Entrees were trouts for the parents and Salmon for Salome...
That was good but 30 mn to got the apetizers and 30 mn between apetizers and entrees it is too long...
There are 3 people to welcome the patrons, one to guide to ten table, one for waters and one for the bread...there is the qerver who takes the order, and then one to bring the plates and another for take out...So a lot of people but anyone with a small part of action and no "conductor"""
And i forgot 2 managers who walked thru the room during all the time...Some,kind of anarchic ineffectiveness...so no dessert because it was too late...by chance wéd'some druits in the coolers...
There is a good wine list. What surprise more our daughter is that some people without reservation got a better table with view...Finally reservation with wait time and an average table...Xanterra you need some organisation...and also for you service at table...in some of the restaurants and specially the supposed finest...

The day after, we decide to hike the Pelican valley trail to the Pelican springs payrol cabin. 7 miles to go and so 14 miles out and back...
You can not begin before 9am due to bear management restriction.
After 10 mn of open prairie ther is 20-30 mn in the woods before arroving in the valley...this valley remains beautiful...there is a small thermal area just at the beginning of the valley, follows the river till an old bridge unpracticable and then domins the river...No bisons this year( only one and far far...). We had no explanations because the river is not dry, the valley green...
Even with this lack of wildlife the hike is nice, not too strenous and the cabin is a nice spot to have a lunch...
There are some small creeks to ford but nothing difficult.
After the lunch we hike to a small thermal area, 0,5 mile from the cabin... Some animals track near the area and some fumeroles...
Then back to the trailhead under an "heavy" sun...we looked a lot on the different slopes but no bears...
Back to the cabin and Anny swimmed. We decide to drive to Canyon for the diner.
Only a small bison jam on the way to Canyon and arrived at the diner room, no wait and wéll be directly guided to a table.
Salad bar for Erik and Salome, a soup for Anny and then trouts for the parents and a burger for Salome.Wine for the women and a beer for me.
Anny and Salome share a yellowstone caldera, a warm mold chocolate cake and i take a flathead cherry crisp. Not bad but a more simple preparation could be nice...
We are always surprised that none of the lodge offered a bowl of berries ...ideal to end a nice meal...
At Canyon lodge we had the impression to be waited, served with celerity but not too much..an exemple : the check arrives AFTER the desert and not with the desserts...a small,dtail but very important...So the tip was good..our policy for the tips is simple.We deecide a 18% but ajusted to the quality of service. So some had only 12% and others 20%...
After we shop at the general store .theone in Canyon is big and ther is a good choice gor glasses, cup, bowl...
It was time to drive back but slowly because it's Uellowstone and so, wildlife on road...

After a good night we take our breakfast at the lake losge cafetaria. It's a self service but employees are efficient and the muffins are freshly backed...

That day the hike was Slough creek. The only problem is the drive to the trailhead. It's after Tower jonction...so 1 h drive nd fortunately not too slow traffic even with some bisons on and around the road...we saw some cars followîg a great bison bull on a pullout only to follow it...And then the same cars obertake us on small roads...

Smough creek trail is an old wagons road to a ranch. The first mile and a quart is quite strenous but after that it's flat and alternance of open meadows and woods.
The elk cabin at 7-7,5 miles is a nice spot to lunch .The river is just near and there are some shadows...
On the way back, when the trail is quite at the shore of tej creek we had to let the trail to a solitary bison bull which decide to follow the trail and eat the treés trunk for 20 mn begore going to the brush...
Nice encoûter and Salome was deligjhted...
We drove back to the lodge, Anny swimm and back to the Lake Yellowstone hotel. We had a tesetvation and surprise we had to...wait and 20 mn as we tequest a table with view which seems an extravagant exigence for the people at the desk...
Always some good meal notably the bison but also lamb for Salome and salmon for Anny...
Caldrea for the women and huckleberry icecream for me.
It was faster than the other day and the bill arrived even before desserts...

Then a good night....
To be continued

Pegontheroad

I have enjoyed your reports in the past, Monpetit, and I'm also enjoying this one.

Your room problem reminded me of a room in Málaga that I reserved a year ahead of time. When I got into the room, I saw that the toilet was situated so close to the wall that when I sat on it, my knees were perhaps two inches from the wall. I went to the desk and asked for the room to be changed. The receptionist refused to change it, even after I told him that I'd reserved the room a full year ago. He kept saying the hotel was full.

The next day I sweetly asked a different receptionist if I could change rooms. He gave me a different room.

Your comments about people getting too close to the bison say pretty much what I would say. The only time I've been close to a bison was a stuffed one in the National Bison Museum. It was HUGE, and I would never get close to a live one.

I'm glad you seem to be enjoying the food, though it sounds like some of the restaurant experiences have been less than perfect.

I'd love to read your report on Glacier Park when you write it. When I was in college, I spent some time at Many Glacier hotel working as a hotel maid. Back then it was quite an elegant hotel, though I understand it has deteriorated.

Pegontheroad

May I suggest that you go to TripAdvisor and post your comments about any problems with the hotels and/or restaurants.

Pegontheroad

P.S. When I went to German Summerschool of the Pacific in Portland, I remember seeing a German woman bringing a bottle of instant coffee to the dining room to make her coffee stronger. I usually have a packet of Starbuck's Via (instant coffee) in my purse when I'm going somewhere that serves weak coffee.

It's in a little packet that makes a cup of very strong coffee if you use the whole packet. I just sprinkle a little on my weak coffee to jazz it up a bit.

monpetit

Pegontheroad : my wife do the same...instant offee in the cup...Or she request un expresso shot in the regular coffee...

On our last day in Lake lodge we ask at the cafetaria if it was possible to have take out on the evening and it was OK...
Why ? Response at the end of the day...
As Salome has a little pain on her left leg and I hurt my feet the day before(too light socks and so what we call in France bulbs under my 2 feet),we decide a moderate trail on that day and choose the Chain of lakes, trailhead at Ice lake.
On the road to the TH we had a bear jam , but for this time "well organised" and as we have not yet seen a bear while hiking we decide to stop and it was a relatively big grizzly, on the valley under mud volcano/sulfur caldron.
We stay 20 mn and then the bear enters a small woods part of the valley and so we continue our drive.
It's a more tahn easy hike. The first lake is Ice lake, and you follow the shore and then it's a little uphill but not too much. Some small pines but not really a forest till Wolf lake, very nice spot.
We were thre at noon as we had the bear's stop but also we take our time around Ice lake.
Anny and Salome ford the creek at Wolf lake and i was thinking of that when i saw some fishers...I ask them on the khike to Grebe lake : not difficult but a big problem : a lot of mosquitos...and so we decide to change our plan :we stay at Wolf lake , relax an hour before going back.
At Ice lake, Anny swimm and then direction Norris Geyser area.We do the Porcelain basin and it was terrific. Not too much people and good disciplin...
It was 5'30, time to drive back to Lake lodge.
The road thru Hidden valley was not too long as bisons were far in the valley and it was time to do the luggage.
Then the idea was to go to the cafetaria, buy some salads, pasta and dessert and to do a pic nic on the Lake yellowsrone shore during sunset..
Ans it was done...
Very particular moment : nice salads, some elk and bison salami we bought the day before with also wisconsin blue cheese and a glass of good white wine(from the russian valley)...Piece of choclolate cakes to end and some berries...The lake, the sunset and it was a perfect ending in this part.

monpetit

Other migration today...
We let Lake Yellowstone, one of our favorite part and the programm was Seven mile hole trail and then Old Faithful inn.
We stopped at Mud Volcano/Sulfur caldron as we never visit them on our previous sejours...
Early in the morning is the best time we thing : not many people, and the pools, springs, fumeroles, "geysers" are on their best...We have a good one hour time there and quite just at the arri=ving of a japanese bus and it was a good timing : people screaming, running, selfiing, appeling each other from 100 yards with no respect on the tranquility of others...
We drove then to the Seven Mole hole trailhead.The hike is coted moderate on the different hiking guides I had.
The beginning is really nice with a light elevation and some nice open meadows.There are some very nice spots on the river, but not for people subject to vertigo...
The contrast of colours between woods, some thermal white areas, the yellow canyon and the blue river is terrific.
Then, begin the descent to the rivershore and we had to...give up...
Salome felt not enough sure with her leg and Anny is affraid while going down in such a trail : it's sloping, with gravel and very narrow...
So we decide not to risk because hiking has to be fun...
I have always some "plan B" and after going back to TH , looking again at the nice spots on the river, we drove to Cygnets lake trailhead.
It's a flat trail, with a good variety of sights : small lakes with waterlilies, woods, meadows,...
We had lunch on the middle of the trail as it was 1'30 pm...
No wildlife but some tracks(coyote or fox, and what we think was a feline but as always for those, tracks but no vision...
We just had time to see the lakes and we had to come back quickly due to the arrival of a thunderstorm...
We arrive just before the rain at the car...
Finally the conjonction of both trails make a 14.5/15 miles distance of hike...(not couting mud volcano/sulfur the complete tour).
[For chain of lakes/norris it has been 10 miles only...]
The project to swimm another time in Ice Lake was in the rain...and finally we drove directly to OFInn.
To be continued

schmerl

I am loving your detailed report.
About wearing baseball caps indoors.....sadly American men have adopted this habit and you will see it everywhere.

emalloy

Thanks for this great report, it makes me want to get out there soon.

monpetit

The road to Oold Faithful was not so bad. The weather semmed to get better and we saw 2 wapitis with calf on the rivershore between madison and Old Faithful.. We stop on a parking to admire them ..really big mother and small calf...
The arriving at Ofaithful weather turn bad...
We check in and guess wath ??
Rooms near the vending machine and at the beginning of the corridor...And always the same respons " sorry but you check in late and we could see what to do tomorrow...".
Finally I request the manager on duty and I tell him that I find that really disappointing...
His only respons was " you had standard rooms"...
Effectively, but there is a big problem with Xanterra : even when you reserve a year or more in advance in some locations, you have only choice with standard rooms( same problem last year for Rising Sun or Swiftcurrent in Glacier, only basic cabins available and the "motel" rooms were sold out...Why ?? Because it is reserved for the bus tours...).
They arrive late, stay one night, get up early...But in the tour's brochure they have room with view even if they don't stay enough to really take advantage of this...
And the individual have choice of standard rooms or reserve 2 years in advance (?)...
This xanterra's policy is inadequat in my opinion but as remark my daughter and my wife" why could you even think one second they will change ?? You decide not to come...There are 100 people to take your room...).
Yes, but I think that individual pay more, and while staying more than one night you had tenfdance to spend more time at bar, shops,...and so to spend some $$.
We had two reservation son site and so we decide to cancel one in act of "revolt"(small revolt but we felt better after that...).
We organise in our rooms with view on a crane because there were some kind of renovations here...
We were decided to look for an OF eruption but...rain and thunderstrom arrived and so, fianlly, direction the OF snow lodge. We liked the obsidian room during our last sejours and would like to taste it again.
It's first come, first served and so there was a 30 mn dfelay.
We go to the bar and drink some cocktails writing some postcards.
The diner ws perfect : we share game sausage samplers/Hot wings and an house salad and then BBQbison ribs for me(always the best as in our souvenir), trout for Anny, Salmon for Salome. A beer for me and A/S finish their cocktails while dining(really big cocktails).
We share teh white chocolate huckleberry cheese cake not so bad...
Servers was nice, not too long and it was perfect...
Generally we slept at OF Snow lodge in their cabins but no avaibility, even when i try in July 2014 for august 2015...

monpetit

The morning after we try OF restaurant for breakfast but nothing exceptional...
It will be so easy to get some bagel/somked salmon or trout, a cup of berries , an homemade granola...
The signature is a buffet(the classic all you can eat...) and all the eggs/bacon/...
The weather was more than uncertain and so we wait for OF eruption, a little one no more and rain began...
So we decide to drive to West yellowstone as a change was in prediction for noon...
We drove slowly but no wildlife on road and arrive in West Yellowstone.
The first stop was at the expresso/cappuccino booth on the main street...That was fine to get finally a real caffeined drink...And they had also a somptuous huckleberry cake...
Then some shopping : Minetonka mocassins for Anny and I, some indians items, 2 knives(a remington and one in bison horn for my collection...).
After that, back to Yellowstone with a little wait at the gate(one question: why there is not a file for the one with an annual pass or a valid pass ??).
And timing was fine as we arrived at the Fairy Falls trailhead at noon.Sun was back. It was even a little too hot...
The trail is almost flat.
The beginning follows the bGrand Primsatic spring but you can not go there by this way...
There are some "social" trails uphill there because it's a spot to take pictures from over BUT this year there are signs "keep off, revegetation in progress...)...
Despite thos numerous signs pepole pass and go uphill...
From all nationalities as we saw japanese, french, italian, german, american, spanish...
The same who if they fall would make a lawsuit because the signs are too small to be seen ???

The Falls were nice this year and the fresh water was a nice spot to a little break...
After that we continue to Spray and Imperial Geyser...
This last is one of our favorite spot in Yellowstone. It didn't erupt very high but it erupst every 5-10 mn, the pool around is deep blue, the fumreole mysterious and the thermal area around strange.
The hill behind made a nice backside for pictures...
And so we relax 1 hour to have our pic nic...
We decide then to continue by Sentinel meadows and back by Goose lake and the bicycle/hiking trail.
It's a nice loop, with some small thermal areas, small geysers and 2 lakes(Goose and feather).
On teh way back always thos people who go uphill and even some in a "nature trip"(backcountry cycle tour...normally sensibilised to the repact of nature...No way...For a picture no respect of the nature and what the rangers try to protect...Always the same interrogation : could a fine's policy be dissuasive ??).
We drove back to OFIn and hike a little on the Geyser hill but it was time for diner...
We kept the reservation in OF inn that evening.
Surprise, no wait but a table in the passage and so we request another more in the middle...
In fact, as there is a buffet(another of their sigfnature buffets) and as the children are allowed by parents to run between the table to have a quiet diner is an illusion...
Perhaps the solution could be : a room for the buffet and the inconvenience of it(people going out and back, pieves of vegetables, meal, g=fish on floors and nobody to take it off...) and a room for the one who preferr a real restaurant diner, served at table ???
This evening some caps and hat on heads but also people with dirty bermuda,T shirts too short and so apparent stomach, tongs on not so washed feet...
Why having such a "tralala" : one personn to welcom you and verify the reservation, one to guide you to the table, and soone and authorising such a decadence...
The time where the cravat was an obligation is no more but to pay would not authorize a such attitude...
The meal was good : the troutcakes(both 3) and wild game bolognese(Erik/Salome) and salmon(Anny) were just perfect.
The summer berry stack was good but the trio of homemade icecream was not tasty at all.
Good wine list.
So good meal but bad environment...
And what you find in the restaurant was the same in corridor...Till 11 pm people seem to think them alone in hotel : they speak loughly, let children run in corridors, and even play...
In Glacier there is a quiet policy between 10 pm and 7 am and it's good...
Ands as our rooms were at the beginning of the corridors...
To be continued...

monpetit

The morning after, we bought some yaourth/granola at the cafetaria and go to the 2nd floor terrasse to see OF.
Weather was so so and we hope an amelioration to do the geyser's hill...In fact weather became worse and worse...Heavy rain and wind...We wait 3/4 h in the shop at OF lodge and finally decide to move direction Mammoth. It seemed on weather information(but 24 h old) that weather was better there.
We do a stop on Norris basin as sun was back here and do the whole back basin tour.Some small geysers, a lot of fumeroles, spring, pool...In fact very nice and much less crowded than other basins...
Then, drive to Mammoth as it was 1'30 pm and just in time to have a lunch at the dining room.
Always a good choice. Room is clear, server attentioned.
Smoked trout for Anny/Erik and warm Goat cheese salad for Salome, and then, trout tacos for Salome, house salad for Anny and the bison burger for me.
A beer for me, a glass of white wine for Anny and a tomato juice for Salome.
All was good but there was a lack of goat cheese in the salad and they don't count it on the bill...
Unfortunatelky they were out of Huckleberry cobbler...(don(t know if it was on that particular day or for the season as we were told that this was a very poor year for Huckleberries...).
So nice meal, good atmosphere...We go to the next door at the ice booth in the cafetaria for Moose traps and chocolate for the ladies and a huckleberry ice cream for me.
Weather seemed to be really changing and so we decide to drive back to Old faithful.
Another note for xanterra : I can understand that Internet could be for extra$ in rooms, but in the common areas why don't offer it ?? Motel6/Super8/Best Western and soone offer it even in room an xanterra is so poor it can not be offered in common area ...(why noticed that : because with internet you can access Yellowstone webcams and so take a look on the weather...).
Our drive was not so bad but the idea not so good : we found same weather than in the morning...
So we change clothes as hiking was not an option and go to the different bgenaral stores to do some shopping(glasses, t shirts,...and postcards...).
It was 8'30 and we take a drink with hot wings/salad as we had lunch late...We wrote some postcards.

Fortunately that last days in OF weather was nice and so direction the Mary Mountain trail. We had a tentative 5 years ago but stopped by a carcass...
It's really one of the nicest trail in Yellowstone.
Relatively flat, river, open meadows, wood,...some thermal areas with pools, geysers,...
On the way in to the lakes we follow some bison tracks and finally saw it in a smal wood juts before the portion along the river...
We had a nice hour relax for lunch at the lakes...
On the way back, another bison jus in the middle of the trail in one of the open meadow.. He has acre and acre to sit but he choose to sit on the trail...
By chance thre was room to make a detour...But it was really starnge to see such 2 bisosn(and 2 different as the pictures attest) in the same day on a trail.
After that, we saw a lot of tracks(feline but also"dog's family) Just the tracks. It's a frustration to know they were there, certainly looking at us but invisible for us...
Near the trailhead we examine some thermal areas... Salome in one of her book read that there were some dramas here(people who have idea to do some bath in the night and who died...but long years ago in the '70 and '80...).
A really very good day.
It was 17-18 miles out and back and really to recommand.
As we were not happy with our day before we decide to do the Grand Prismatic spring before going back to hotel...
Always a splendor but why some had to put hands and feets in the water despite the "no signs" or to put some coins in the springs...Mistery...
To recommand also another diner at the Obsidian room .
Always sharing hot wings and salad and then trout/bison ribs and salmon.Excellent service and nice atmosphere even if some people ask to down the stores due to the sun...Just need to change seats and given back to the sun but seemed too difficult for some...
It was our last day here and the impressions are mixed :
- exceptional park with a lot of highlights( geysers, pools,...) , a lot of nice trails(Pelican valley, Slough creek, Mary Mountain, Fairy Falls/Imperial geyser), a rich wildlife...
- BUT a turist's attitude which was really down this year with no respect of the others, no respect of the wildlife, no respect of the nature, no thinking on the future..less rangers or general attitude ??
- and Xanterra which seemed more intersted to make some $$ than to respect the individual patrons...
Or perhaps our exigence was too high ???
The very next future would give us (and you..) a respons...
To be continued for teh respons...

monpetit

last morning at OFaithful, quick check out and by chance weather was very nice and so...we can do the geyser's hill, beginning by Old faithful, a very nice eruption(we saw 5 during our stay and very different in duration and highness...).
After we do the whole tour till Morning Glory pool. No other euption of one of the big, but nice pools, nice colors(definitively early morning is a good choice : less people, nice colors...).
It take 2 hours and a half for the whole tour if you want to take your time, listen to the underground activity, having a real look to the pool...
When back at the car, it was 11 and time to begin the drive to Grand Teton.
We decide to hike the Southbundary trail, the west part.
The beginning is at the south park entrance. We were advise by the ranger of a "resident black bear" but as often when advised, no encounter...
The trail is nice, mix of wood with some open meadows.There are some ponds, more or less water this year.
After 2 h we arrive at a creek and need to search for an easy ford, finally by feet for a Anny and on some wood trunk for Salome and me. This corner of the trail is a well kept secret. River, mountain in background, small hills around the river. We decide to have our pic nic here and relax.
After that we begin to follow the trail but after 2 mores river ford we decide to stop . We had not taken our hiking poles and the fords were not always easy...
Even without reaching the lake it was a really good day...
The road to the Teton was quiet and as it was not too late we stop at Colter bay, looking for Willows flat trailhead.
Finally we ask at the registration desk of the lodge and they said it was close due to bear.
Finally we decide to drive to our final destination, the Signal Mountain Lodge on Jackson lake.
What a change with Xanterra...Easy check-in , lot of information on the lodge, complimentary wi fi even in rooms,and the best 2 bedrooms suite unit on the lake, upper floor...And as said the woman at the desk " as you stay 4 nights we give you the best..."(very nive music in my ears and really a professional attitude...but it's not a big industry there and impression to be welcome ...).
We arrive a little earlier than predict and that allowed Anny...to swimm in the lake...
Signal Mountain Lodge is really a must for us : big unit, quiet, nice views if you request a unit with view and atmosphere of family-owned lodge...It was our second visit and it will not be the last...
Our first dinner was at their Peaks restaurant. Often no wait there and good quality..
Trout cakes/ button mushrooms/garlic soup in appetizers, trout and manicoti with bison sausage in entrees, and their blackberries pies in dessert. A nice white wine and it was perfect. A nice view, good service...

On the morning, breakfast at the Trapper Grill : an excellent homemade granola and nice wild blueberries hotcake...Only the coffee was average...
The weather was uncertain and so we decide to drive to the Two Ocean lake trailhead and we'll see how it will go.
We hike counterclock and so on the north shore. The trail is easy, no real denivelation. Nice views on the lake, but no big views on the teton range due to the weather. It was humid(rain in the night) . We saw a nice fox(or coyote) hiking the trail but going fast in the backcountry while seing us(too fast for a picture...).
There are a lot of birds on the lake.
No chance, arriving at the west extremity, the rain began to fall and heavier/heavier...So we hike fats on the south shore, with a 10 mn accalmy and big chance : a very big osprey on a branch let me time to do some pictures...
Back to car and on the way back a "bear jam" but well organised. Spontaneously people park on road side, allowing the traffic. Mother saw with 2 cubs but too far for good pictures.. It was otherwise and depite the rain a good morning...
We drive back to the lodge, change our clothes and decide to drive to jackson as weather.com annouce rain for the whole afternoon...
To be continued

Nelson

Thanks again, still following. Great report, making notes for our visit next year, we also like to hike. I was deciding whether to add Jackson Lake Lodge or Signal Mountain to our itinerary, but it sounds like Signal Mountain is the way to go. So far we have 3 nights Old Faithful cabins and 4 nights Lake cabins.

Your observations about Xanterra and tourists are well made. On balance I don't mind Xanterra because it could be a lot worse, but certainly there is room for improvement. The tour groups and outfitters booking up the hotels in advance is also a problem in the Grand Canyon. They wait until near the date until they cancel, so a lot of other people can't really plan. The hotels are full of reservations that are never used. No doubt many tourists do the same thing.

> The same who if they fall would make a lawsuit because the signs are too small to be seen ???
Yep. I think this story is true but not 100% sure: Some years ago there was a lawsuit against the Park after a wildlife incident, injury or fatality, someone approached too close for a photo. The lawsuit failed because a ranger had photographed the Park brochure warning about approaching wildlife on the dashboard of the victim's car. Again, not sure if a true story, but I can believe it.

Slw

Thanks for the continuing report. I'm especially enjoying the information about the various hikes. Did you take bear spray?

monpetit

Yes we both have our bear spray and follow the precaution's guide : speaking, singing...We have both bearspray because during the uphill part sometimes I am not as fast as my wife and my daughter...
When we encounter the bisons we let them a lot of room and for the one on Slough creek we wait he decide to go in the woods...I think it's the only way to hike without being nervous...This year and a year ago in Glacier, not too much bears on hike but the last year before her "break" we saw 18 on trails...since 2 years we are lucky with mooses, and last year while hiking down on Piegan Pass to many Glacier we saw a fisher on a snow slope...That was fine.

So drive to Jackson and arriving thtere, rain was over...but very cloudy sky. Salome and I go hunting the burgers...
The problem was we were not alone to have this idea to have the afternoon in Jackson...And so more than 40 mn to wait for a burger...No way...We let main street and finally find a not so bad adress on a 2nd floor.
The bison burgers were good and the fresh cut potatoes also.
After thatwe visit one of the museums , the historical society(we like thos kind of museum with a good view/daily life of the old days...).
Then we go to the Mangelsen gallery, specialised in the wild life pictures... We have no time to stay such long days to wait wildlife(perhaps when i will be retired) and so no time to get some special pictures. I bought a bison picture in snow with one piece of grass in the mouth...Perfect for my "book's room" in France...
The rst of the afternoon was from shop to shop, sometimes longer (episod of HEAVY rain...).
Anny and Salome found some indian jewelry, we found some T shirts and candles...
It was time to drive back to Signal mountain lodge.
On the way back we saw a black bear on a slope , cars well parked, rangers present. Nice black bear not too far.
And arrived at the lodge another just in nthe middle of the cabins, traversing the lodge to go from a wood near the camping to the wood way to Signal mountain...That was fun but obliged to remember that the attention has to be constant...
This evening, we had a reservation to Jackson lodge at the Mural room.
The service has been a little longer than expected and so ther was a 10 mn wait to get a table with view as requested but they offer us a glass of prosecco , and so no problem.
The meal was good : crab cakes, idaho trout salad in appetizers, trout, salmon and elk in entrees, huckleberry crisp and chocolate cake in dessert. Good white wine at the glass(notably one of the russian valley) and an excellent syrah for my elk... Good service...
It could have been perfect but some turist's attitude was really out of etiquette.
Anny and salome go to the restroom and they came back, laughing but not for a real humoristic fact : " you know what they said to me : there was there a mother with 3 daughters and they all wash their feet in the lavabo...incredible...).
And we should have a drink in the lobby as there aar a lot of sofas there and a huge lobby ...but one third of the sofas were occupied by people lying down with their shoes on..., and taping on their PC or Ipad...And noone in the staff daresaid to them on this attitude...
We think there is a great problem with the lodges. There are part of a cultural heritage and they need respects...
yes some councessioner(like xanterra) do a little to give them all the amelioration they request BUT it's also our way to respect them and the others...
It's no more time to be in tie and jackets or long dress but correct clothes and correct attitude is a minimum...
There is a just attitude to have and so everyone should have a good sensation and a good sejour. Sofas in lobby are to sit not to ly down, a restaurant is not a self service cafetaria, an hotel's corridor is not a palyground.
And the staff has to take also responsability...To pay does not allow all...
If noone becmae conscient of this those great lodges will degrade more and more.

The day after, sun was back...and so we follow our schedule and go to Jenny lake boat dock .We b egin the ascent to inspiration point but did not take the spur to it at the day would be Cascade canyon to Solitude lake.
The most difficult part is this ascent to inspiration point.
It's 20-30 mn with no real agreement...
After the trail follows the creek more or less visible.
There are a lot of open views on the mountain, on the creek. There are some avalanche corridors.
We have chance to have seen a silver grey fox, and then a small pika transporting some grass...
Finally the best was to come : a mother moose with calf..in the creek. We stay 20 mn there looking after them.
It was time to continue the way slightly up to the fork. Then the way to Lake Solitude is in an open valley with a small river .
The flora is stupendous, the uphill not too strenght...
The aiival on the lake is great and it is a very nice spot to ahve the lunch break.
No wildlife on the slopes but the scenery did not need it to be satisfied.
The good is this trail is that the way down faced the Tetons and so it's a continuous enchantment...
We saw a (the same ??) pika on the same avalanche slope, transporting leaves 3-4 times its dimension...Too funny.
Then a nice mule deer going up on the trail as surprised as we were and we looked each other for 2-3 mn before she goes in the slope there...
no problem to the boat dock but Salome begna to have pain in her left leg and she needs some antiinflamatory pills(by chance Anny has always some medication...).
Back to the boat and then drive to the lodge.
A very very good day with a great hike, nice flora and wildlife... Idea for a next sejour : going up by paintbrush canyon to Holly lake and then the pass, solitude lake and back by Cascade ??
Diner was at Peak restaurant as the menu/service/qua

monpetit

sorry bad operation...
menu/service/quality meet on our criterias and we were not disppointed...Button mushrooms and trout cakes, bison sirloin and trouts, blackberry pie, white wine for the ladies and a good beer for me...
We decide after to change our plan. The initial was Amphitheater and Surprise lakes but we decide to be prudent due to Salome's leg.
So the programm will be a combo around Emma Matilda lake and Two Ocean.

On the morning Salome came with us for Breakfast because she was interested by the blackberry stuffed french toast and we share granola/muffins.
Then we drove to The Emma Mathilda trailhead.
It's mid-way to the Two Ocean Trailhead.
We decide to round clockwise direction along Emma Matilda.
It's a succession of woods and open meadows with some nice views on the mountain but it's a trail which stay at distance from the lake.
On the west extremity there are a lot of intersections with trails from jackson lodge ou to some viewpoints. And then there is a small uphill part not too strenous but temperature was hot...
We saw a pair of sansdhill cranes just taking their flight and then coming down.
We find one of our nicest spot of the sejour in a small birch's grove with mountain in background.
It was our last full day hike and so we take an hour and a half break to really appreciate that moment.
It was unfortunately time to stand up and continue our hike.
We take the spur to Two Ocean lake and decide to follow the southshore, the one which was walked too quickly under the rain...Very nice...Some ducks in water, a couple of kayack and on the way back another mule deer...
We hiked back the spur and end the trail to Emma Matilda trailhead.
Very nice combo and we think it should be possible to combine the 2 whole loops beginning sooner than we have done.
Back to the lodge, Anny go to swimm and salome and I drink a beer on our terrass view on teh lake before paking the luggage.
During breakfast wa had asked if it was possible to have a take out from Trapper Grill and so we reserved some salad/trout tacos/burgers and blackberry pies/chocolate pie with a bottle of white wine. We "picnic" on our terrass and that was very fun...
Perfect ending of a superb sejour..
All is done here to feel welcome, and the staff's attitude and turist's attitude(exception/Jackson lodge lob=y and restroom) are completely different/Yellowstone. The park is more challenging and perhaps more for Nature's lovers...
This can perhaps explain this difference...
To be continued and end...

monpetit

Last day in Grand Teton.
We quite with regrets our SL Lodge retreat and drove direction String lake trailhead. We arrive early and so no problem to park.It's important here to arrive early because it's a very knowed place to swim, to have boat activity...and so after 10 parking lot is full.
The trail is easy and follow lakeshores : String, the Leigh and after that continue in woods and open meadows to Bearpaw.
We saw mule deers and a ptarmigan.
The scenery is terrific, the trail flat. You can see the beginning of paintbrush canyon and the background of the mountains reflecting in the lakes is a must.
We took a small break with cereals bars, Anny swim in Leigh lake and finally have to come back to the car.
We end always our Wyoming/Montana sejour in Missoula but we took our time to find some others ideas.
This year we drove to Dillon to visit Bannack.
The road between Jackson( desert this day, due to the sun and so...) is nice in the first part in the mountain to the pass and then flat...flat..flat.
We do a small stop in Jackson to buy blue cheese and bread at supermarket and some cherries/berries.
We do a small stop on the road.
We arrive in Dillon at 6 pm .
We had rooms at paradise inn, a best western not so bad, rooms on the rear part and so far from the road. It is not a plus or prmeier BW but seems and is far better than the one in Billings.
This evening we choose the Sparky's garage.Family restaurant where there are more locals than turists...
Sparkys wings, cheese sticks and salad in appetizer,salmon, st louis style ribs and a mushroom burgers in entrees, hucleberry icecream in dessert, tomato juice and beers...
Perfect choice. No tralala, good smiling service...
After a good night we began the day by driving to Bannack state park...
We like thos ghost towns(we have yet made Garnett, Elk, Virginia and Nevada city).
Bannack has no shops like Virginia but has a ranger's office(not like Elk).
It's more like Garnett but you can enter in some buildings and it's terrific, notably the hotels, the church and the school's room.
Then back to Dillon and we drove to Georgetown lake(so Anny can swim and we had a light pic nic : cheese and fruits) and Philipsburg.
Not a ghost town but not far...Some shops, a nice ice cream parlour(and excellent icecreams...), a candy shop but we had some from Red Lodge, a microbrewery but I am the driver..
Finally we bought some Montana sapphirs and so Anny and Salome can ask our jeweler here in France to do some bracelets and ring. The problem is that in USA the gold is often 14 carats and we prefferr 18 K gold...
We drove then to Missoula and our usual adress there : Blue Mountain bed and breakfast on the lolo road.
Brad offer very nice rooms, exceptional breakfast( notably a berry scone and he do always some extra scone for the flight back for Salome...). We have always our firs diner here : salad/steak and berry cobbler.
After a nice night evne with the warmth in Missoula, a small morning walk, with some mule deers in the woods around the house we had our usual programm :
southgate mall( some clothes, and huckleberry product,...), then the ship "shop" because we send by UPS some of our souvenirs. We park the car and lunch at the ironhorse pusalad, wings, icecreams), the antique mall, some other souvenir shops, the postoffice for the postcard to send, some galleries and back to the B&b. We pack the luggage for the last time and then back to Missoula to have our diner at the Pearl cafe. We had a mix experience last year with a server who take our command without writing it and so no smoked trout(she forgot and time to a new order all was gone, and no on in the gropu eat with th others...But they offer us the diner...).
This evening all was perfect, notably the smoked trout but also the steak, scallops and salmon, very good dessert and good wine...
back for our last night and then airport. We'll be back next year, for sure at the B&b and at Pearl...

So :
- excellent experience in Beartooth, and the promess to come back : nice trails, nice atmosphere;
- mix feeling in Yellowstone : the park is a real gem, the trails are not so bad(special mention to Mary Mountain, Pelican valley, Fairy Falls/Imperial/the meadow and we recommand to add the ruin of the bath here) and all the geysers, pools, wild life BUT turists and concessioner are not at the level this park need and deserve
- excellent experience in Grand Teton with a special mention to Signal mountain lodge and all the trails...
- always the same welcome in Missoula...
Next year will be see our come back in Glacier(one year left not too long and with all those fires perhaps we choose well our year off...).

Erik