shorty313

Hi! I've already learned a lot reading on these forums and guidebooks, but was hoping someone could look at our plan and give me a reality check whether it's too much, or if I'm missing anything important. This is part of a 14 day trip that starts in SD. I have 4 nights planned in YNP (two in Roosevelt, 2 in OF), and 2 nights planned in GTNP.

We plan on visitng first week of July 2015, and want to be ready when reservtions open for next year. There are 6 of us traveling: my husband and I, our two kids (who will be 5.5 and 7.5 at the time) and my parents, who are in their late 60s. They are in reasonable shape, but 5 hour hikes are out of the question - I'm trying to keep all hikes under the 1-2 hour mark. None of us are super early risers, so I don't expect to be ready to hit the roads before 8:30 on any day.

Day 8 – Leave Cody and drive to NE entrance of Yellowstone via Beartooth Highway and Lamar Valley. Check into Roosevelt Lodge (if we can get rooms with private bath). Drive to Mammoth and check kids into Ranger program. Drive Upper Terrace Rd and see buildings at Fort Yellowstone and map room in Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. If time stop for swim in Boiling River. On the way back hike either Undine Falls or Waithe Falls. Stop and see petrified tree. Have dinner at Roosevelt Lodge.

Day 9 – Bring boxed lunch. Head south to see Tower Fall, perhaps hike down to bottom. Stop at Calcite Springs Overlook. Continue south to North Rim of Canyon, stop at Inspiration Point, then Grandview and Lookout Points. At Lookout Point, hike 0.5 mile trail to Red Rock Point. Next stop at Brink of Lower Falls, 0.5 mile trail and then Brink of Upper Falls. On South Rim, have lunch in picnic area, then hike Uncle Tom’s Trail to base of falls. If time drive to Artist Point. Return back to Roosevelt in time for Old West Cookout (4:45 pm) - this is worth it with kids, right? Overnight at Roosevelt Lodge again. (is this too much in one day? Should we push some to day 10?) Is the Canyon Village education center worth a stop (1hr)?

Day 10 – Depart Roosevelt Lodge, heading south to Yellowstone Lake area. Drive through Hayden Valley to Mud Volcano area to see wildlife and thermal basins. Hike Natural Bridge trail if open. Check out Fishing Bridge and hike Pelican Creek Nature Trail. Lunch at Yellowstone Hotel. Check in to Old Faithful Inn. Dinner at Old Faithful Inn.

Day 11- Take box lunch. Start at Old Faithful visitor center to check predicted eruption times and see Young Scientist room. After eruption explore Geyser hill area. Then see Firehole River loop to see Grand Geyser and Crested Pool. Head up to midway geyser basin through Firehole Lake Drive to see Great Fountain Geyser and Fountain Paint Pot. Further north, drive Firehole Canyon Drive to see Firehole Falls and (maybe - this one sounds more difficult than Boiling RIver) swim in hot springs. Head toward Norris Basin and hike trails to Porcelain Basin and Back Basin. If time, visit Artist Paint Pots (0.5 mile trail) before heading to dinner and overnight again at Old Faithful Inn.

Day 12-Leave park through South Entrance to arrive at Grand Teton. Drive along Rockefeller parkway to see Cathedral Group (peaks). Continue south to Colter bay. Hike Lakeshore trail, 2 miles. Lunch. Continue south to Jackson Lake junction and head west to Signal Mountain. Take path to Jackson Point Overlook. Continue south to Jenny Lake and hike up to inspiration point (1.8 miles if take boat shuttle, otherwise 5.8 miles. May be better suited for morning). Dinner and overnight at either Colter Bay Village or Signal Mtn Lodge.

Day 13- Start at Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor center. See Chapel of Transfiguration. Take float trip down Snake River - recommendations for an operator welcome. Overnight same as day 12.

Day 14 - drive to Jackson Hole to depart.

Any suggestions or changes you would make? AM I allowing enough time in each place, considering our hiking is minimal?

spirobulldog

First Week in July sounds like a really bad idea, IMOP.
Go in June!!!

Roosevelt Lodge is all Cabins--there are no "rooms" actually there. One without a private bath would have been a big deal for my wife/daughter. We've been to so many national parks now without a bathroom in our room, it's no biggie at all now.

There is a Deli in Canyon area that might be better to get your lunch(if your buying it in the park)

Day 10-- Don't miss Dragon's Cauldron(this is right on the road and is cool thing for kids to see--I think I've got the name right). Check out West Thumb area. Maybe do a Lake Tour.

I would only have one Meal at Old Faithful Inn. Food is not that great. But, I would have one meal. Hamilton Store is a good place for a burger or breakfast(it's close by OFI-kinda in the parking lot entrance).

I would allow for a lot of time to see not only Old Faithful, but also Riverside Geyser and Castle Geyser. You can get an idea of their eruption times too--these require more waiting than Old Faithful, but the payoff is huge!!

Since I mentioned food earlier, Have a meal at Jackson Lake Lodge. Main Dining Room and then the 50's dining room style below are both good.

I would consider doing the boat across Jenny Lake with a hike to Inspiration Point and Hidden Falls. It is a busy trail, so no solitude.

I would also consider hiking Mount Washburn in Yellowstone.

Since you are going to be hiking some, do invest in a can of Bear Spray before entering the park(or perhaps even before your on the Beartooth HWY).

The best wildlife is early or late. I know you said you aren't early risers, but there are very few people out early and I PROMISE PROMISE PROMISE, it is so worth it to get up and get going.

Yellowstone is one of those unusual places that makes it a little hard to predict how long it takes to get from point A to point B. You find yourself stopping and looking at a lot of wildlife.

You might want to take a Historic Yellow Bus Tour. Mammoth are a is our least favorite(do expect to see a lot of elk there). Petrified Tree is a little underwhelming(nothing like Petrified Forest in Arizona).

The only really big flaw I see is going on July 4th.
You are very likely to be able to get the rooms you want if you get on the phone/computer the day/hour they become available.
You need to check the first day of every month(sometimes they release them early)

shorty313

Thanks for the reply!

Unfortunately the kids have school until June 23, I plan to leave June 25 for Rapid City...but perhaps it would be a better idea to do the trip in reverse? Not sure what SD is like early July as far as crowds.

I was told when I called last month that they release dates May 1. Is it possible they release them April 1? En-suite bathrooms are a deal breaker for my mom. Of course, I can't buy plane tickets until August (we are coming from NJ) so I may book an extra night in either direction until I have confirmed flight dates.

If you had to pick one early day for wildlife, which area would it be?

What's to see in West Thumb area?

How long/far/strenuous is the Mt Washburn hike?

Thank you for the food suggestions - I only put dinner twice at OFI because I don't know what else is there. I guess I will have to look into restaurants more closely after the rooms/cabins are booked.

This will be my parent's only trip to the area, and I really don't want to miss anything!

schlegal1

I'm researching my own trip for this July and love all the tips.

spirobulldog, I am especially happy to see you weigh in since when I see your reports we usually share similar styles. But then, I think everyone who loves the outdoors is usually on the same page. [small hijack, have you been to the Great Smoky Mountain NP--if so, can you link to a report, I didn't see one when I clicked your name and I'd love your tips]

shorty, I saw you mentioned swimming in the boiling river. That was on my "to do" list as well until the guidebook I was using mentioned risk of deadly amoebic encephalitis if you get your face in the water. I haven't sussed out the real risk yet (seems extremely unlikely to contract but always deadly once contracted). But I wanted to pass that info on so you can do your own research. It's weird, I have probably been in numerous bodies of water with this amoeba with no negative result yet seeing it as a specific warning in the guidebook makes me anxious (plus I am being entrusted with my nephew for this trip so I am feeling extra cautious).

shorty313

Schlega - thanks for the heads up, I'll have to look into that. I can't imagine telling a 7 and 5 year old not to dunk or splash.

spirobulldog

I don't think anyone has ever actually contracted encephalitis, but it is present. I'm sure most everyone goes under/splashes. Depending on current flow, first of July might be to early to go in the river anyway. There is also a small are in the Firehole River that you can swim in. Boiling River is something I've wanted to do, but haven't yet.

Here is a link to Great Smoky's. I've been the past 2 years around the end of May. The TR is with my nephew 2 years ago. My wife and our daughter, did the exact same trip, except we also added in the North Carolina side and saw The Biltmore too this past year.
http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...nd-parrots.cfm
Here is a link to just photos from last May trip.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...0IatW7FqybsWtE

Lamar Valley and Hayden Valley are the prime spots(you will be driving thru these anyway). But, we saw a lot right around Tower area. You are going to see Elk, Deer, Coyotte, Bison pretty much guaranteed every single day. Fairly likely to see a bear, but might not. Unlikely that you would run into a cougar or wolf. You might get lucky and see something like a bobcat or porcupine(my parents had a porcupine visit when they were at a picnic area at dusk). It is somewhat of a crapshoot.

In rethinking-Mt. Washburn might be a bit much. Maybe try Hell-Roaring or Fairy Falls. Getting just a bit off the roads will be much less crowded.

I would be tempted to start out in Yellowstone and then fight the crowds at Black Hills. Plus, you probably want to be at Mount Rushmore on the 3rd or 4th(perhaps they will reinstate the fireworks, they haven't had them the past 3 years or so-due to the Pine Beattls killing the trees)(but there is other stuff there during that period-I think 3rd is the big day there).

I love love the National Park Lodging. But, just so you know, OFI and Roosevelt are both pretty rustic, even with bathrooms in your room. Personally, those 2 are my favorite spots, with Lake Hotel right behind them. Just be prepared for squeaks in the floors, paper thin wall, and perhaps a squirrel or critter in your room.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...0IatW7FqybsWsz
Here are some photos of our Yellowstone/Tetons trip 4 or 5 years ago. We were there Mid-June. We stayed one night at Roosevelt Cabin(with bath), OFI(no bath), Lake Hotel, and Colter Village Cabin. 5 days total. Beartooth HWY was closed due to snow and all the roads had just opened in the park on the day we arrived.

West Thumb is kinda cool, because there are geyser/steam vents right by the lake. You could probably see enough of it in an hour or two.

Your first encounter with a thermal feature will likely be Soda Butte area not long after entering the park/ from the Beartooth HWY. It's smell is pretty impressive. Lots of Bison in the area. Saw a lot of Pronghorn there too.

By the way, you can search a lot of this on youtube and get a pretty good feeling for things(boiling river, mt. washburn, etc)

Let me repeat myself. Castle Geyser and Riverside Geyser are the bomb!! Castle only goes every 13 hours(about 1 out of 20 is a dud--like it just sorta goes). You may have to wait on it 2-3 hours. It goes for a long time(20 minutes at least) followed by a steam phase. If happens to go early or late, there are only a handful of people there.
Riverside is cool because it arcs over the river. It goes about every 4 hours. It goes for several minutes. You may be waiting on it an hour or more.
Daisy is another one that is predictable-just check with a ranger at Visitor Center.
I like Old Faithful best at about 6:00AM. It was just me and one other person there for the show. Most of the day expect 1000+. It only goes for a couple of minutes. Very easy to catch though as they rarely miss the predicted eruption(usually within 5 minutes of what they predict). It goes about every 90 minutes. Catch it several times.

shorty313

I will definitely be adding Dragons Cauldron. Hellroaring is classified as strenuous, so that's probably out. Fairy falls seems doable. I will have to read those PDFs more closely for some other options.

Reversing the trip as I have it now puts me at Mt Rushmore July 6, but I can probably move the SD side of things around without too much difficulty. Is the crowd increase more pronounced at Yellowstone than other parks? If so I have no problems reversing, assuming flights are readily available.

Are the Castle and Riverside geysers on the list of predicted times, just not as accurate a window of time? Riverside seems doable...I'm not sure I can convince a five year old boy to wait 2-3 hours for Castle, but perhaps we'll get lucky.

We don't mind rustic, as long as there is running water! Since we want to do the cookout I don't want to drive in the dark afterwards so it made sense to stay there, and I don't want to change hotels every day if I can help it.

Spiro great pics! Where was number 60 taken?

Thanks for all the input so far!

spirobulldog

There are about 6 or 7 geysers that are predictable. Riverside and Castle are both on that list. Riverside is every 4 hours +/- 1 hour or so. Castle is every 13 hours +/- 2 hours.
I saw one couple playing a board game with their kids at Castle. We watched a Coyotte harass a young bison and it's mom while we were waiting(pretty cool). You can have a pretty good idea on when Castle is going to go, even the night before. Now, when a geyser does something that isn't the norm, then the next prediction is sometimes trickier. The predictions are somewhat like predicting weather.

I was just thinking that Hell-roaring would be easier than Mt. Washburn and shorter. I may be getting hikes confused.

I just think the crowds would be really really big anywhere in Yellowstone and Blackhills for several days before and after July 4th. I haven't been to either at that time, but perhaps others will way in on that.

I'm pretty sure #60 was Morning Glory Pool. You can walk from OFI and see it along with Riverside, Castle, Daisy Geyser (plus many other geysers). My parents were lucky enough to see Beehive Geyser go. I think it goes 3 or 4 times a day, but unpredictable.


BTW, we are going to Mount Rushmore over Memorial Day weekend this year. Staying at Sylvan Lake Lodge cabin in Custer State Park. Will see Wind Cave, Jewel Cave, Badlands, Crazy Horse, Rushmore, Mammoth Site. I think one day we are going to drive and see Devils Tower and Battle of Little Bighorn.
You might consider driving through Bighorn Canyon area, as it is supposed to be very pretty. It would be a bit out of my way, but it is on the route to Yellowstone from Black Hills. Cody would be a good stop to do too.

shorty313

Right now the first portion of our trip includes Badlands (wonder how hot that gets in July if we reverse?), Mt Rushmore, Custer St Pk, Sylvan Lake, Crazy Horse, Wind Cave, Mammoth, Hot Springs, and Cody. I didn't think we'd be able to fit Jewel Cave in.

I will have to plot the tour in both directions and see what everyone else thinks. Flight times are slightly better with the original plan, but that's not the end all, be all.

richmond706

Did you say you weren't going until 2015? Bravo for the early planning. We are going this year with teenagers the last week in June and the first few days of July. For some reason our flights were cheaper to work it that way. We didn't want to go before the 2nd week in June anyway and risk some things still being closed or it being too cold for some younger nephews we are meeting up with.
Anyway, just for info...I was able to get our reservations for July 4th week in January (as in 6 mos prior) There wasn't a lot left but obviously I think you don't have to panic about getting them on the first day reservations open at least but the earlier the better. It was booked solid by the middle of January though (except the $379 1 queen only rooms were left.) We are staying at Mammoth Springs Cabins and the Old Faithful Snow Lodge. That being said, I couldn't get anywhere for two of my nights, but I feel confident I can get them a week or two before we go when people cancel.
I know there are a lot of Yellowstone experts on here but if there is anything you want me to try and check out for you when we are there pertaining to that busy period let me know. Thanks for all of the info you added, Spirobulldog.

shorty313

Thanks for the offer richmond! I will be looking forward to your trip report. Yes, I'm planning for 2015...I know places book pretty far in advance an dour preference is to be at the hardest to get accommodations, of course!

schlegal1

Good for you. My newphew only decided last week that this would be our destination. It was madness on my end trying to find some of the in-park lodges and I did get one room at Grant's Village. All else was booked solid for almost every week from May through August. Tetons park accommodations were easier to come by.

My goodness are the lodges expensive, though.

The biggest difficulty I am having is the same as yours, shorty---how long is it going to take to see/get to the things I want to include. Distance isn't such a good measure since, as SB pointed out, there's likely a lot of stopping.

The biggest difficulty I have right now is the middle of our trip: We have a night at Jackson Lake Lodge currently followed by a night in Gardiner. (Thinking we'd spend most of the day in the Western area of the park and then just make for the North at the very end of the day). We are cram-it-all-in vacationers but this might just be too much distance and we wonder if we're better off booking something in W. Yellowstone that night rather than getting our tired rears up to MT.

shorty313

Oddly, the car rental is $200 more JAC>RAP than RAP>JAC, so I think we'll stick with our original plan of SD first. Even crazier, a round trip rental from RAP is more than the one way rental!

Once I have the whole itinerary worked out I'll post again, including SD, so perhaps I can get some ideas/opinions on lodgings there.

Myer

spiro,

I hiked Hellroaring. It's up between Mammoth and Tower.

The Mt Washburn trail is very easy. It's a wide, gently sloped dirt road up to the ranger station. Of course, the problem isn't the trail it's the elevation. It starts at 8,800 ft and goes up to about 10,350. The good part is that you go up first and coming back down is a piece of cake. Just rest often and drink water. Take with some warm clothes.

Hellroaring is tough. The trail goes downhill first and is quite narrow. There's a lot of knee and hip movement. Going down is ok which you do first. Coming back up is tough. We were hanging over the car when we got back up to the top. The trail is shared with horses so not only are you on a trail that has a lot of relatively small boulders making it very uneven, but you have to avoid what the horses leave for you. We went as far as the bridge.

If I had to choose one it would be Mt Washburn. I'm taking my daughter and almost 8 year old granddaughter to Yellowstone in late July. I think my daughter told her about Mt Washburn and she wants to try it. There's nothing tough about it. Nothing that a can of oxygen wouldn't cure.

= = = = =
About viewing geysers.

There are 5 predictable geysers. Old Faithful is easiest. Partly because of it's location and partly because it erupts about every 90 minutes.

We went to Grand near the end of its eruption window. We sat around for almost an hour (it might have erupted 2-3 hours earlier and we would have missed it) before it erupted.

We were very lucky as from there we walked about 10 minutes to Riverside that erupted about 20 minutes after we got there.

From Riverside it's a 5-7 minute walk to Morning Glory.

You can see my photos of the trip at:
www.travelwalks.com

spirobulldog

http://mms.nps.gov/yell/ofvec/exhibi...n/predict4.htm

Link all about Predictable Geysers.

shorty313

Thanks for the link to the geysers spiro.

Is not my kids I worry about with the hikes, it's my parents. They walk regularly at home, but only for an hour and at sea level to boot!

tomarkot

Hi shorty313, we've been to Yellowstone and GTNP several times. We'd suggest definitely making "Artist's Point" a stop. It's one of the most spectacular, along with "Inspiration Point". If you're there at sunset, it's a real bonus! Our style may be a bit different; but instead of lining up so many walks or hikes to do, we'd suggest "playing it by ear" as some demand more pausing and staring. We think more is not always better. We'd second the suggestions above for earlier and later in the day animal viewing; however, a surprise sighting is never out of the question.

GTNP has some wonderful "easy" walks which your parents might enjoy, like String Lake.

You have a good year to anticipate the enjoyment of these beautiful parks.

circassy

Hi,
You are going to LOVE Yellowstone. Me and my husband just came back from camping there it was awesome...
Here are some things that you may want to keep in mind..
Try to do some of the back country hikes. We dd storm point near fishing bridge and overlook in west thumb. Both worth the walk.
The Grand Canyon is awesome, and uncle toms point is neat. There is a section where you can climb down 300 stairs to see the lower falls. But keep on mind you have to also walk back up 300 stairs. At the high altitude it was a little rough, but it is so worth the view.
Mammoth hot springs are cool, also the driving in that part of the park going into Gardner MT is great. If you are squeamish about heights this might be a problem . I didn't spend a lot of time at old faithful, some of the other geysers are more impressive. If you can see whirligig geyser that is probably cool (we didn't get a chance to see it, but it sounded like it has a neat eruption).
If you want good animal viewing go out early and go to Lamar and Hayden valley. And watch for folks in turnouts with scopes, they are the serious animal watchers and on two occasions we were able to see bear and elk interaction, as well one man let us see wolves through his scope (they were completely invisible to the naked eye).
If you can take advantage if the evening ranger talks. They have them at all or most of the sites, and you learn a lot about the park. Take advantage of the rangers knowledge.
One more thing(I could talk about Yellowstone all day). If you get off track of your plans-don't worry, we were not disappointed by anything we saw there(although I agree with the one poster, the petrified tree is underwhelming). And get bear spray... Chances are slim you will need it, but better safe. And keep the altitude in mind and stay hydrated... And don't let it keep you from some of the hikes... The views with some of them are simply unbeatable and worth the huffing and puffing... Have fun )

awayfromitall

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