Yellowstone and Big Sky - a winter trip report and photos
Feb 19th, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Yellowstone and Big Sky - a winter trip report and photos
This was our first trip to Montana and Yellowstone. We wanted to visit in the winter season when it’s quiet and everything is covered in snow (we live in SoCal so it’s a novelty for us 
) and the wildlife is easily visible. Plus we love skiing and winter sports.
We flew into Bozeman, picked up an SUV rental and drove 1.5 hours to Gardiner near the north entrance of Yellowstone. In Gardiner, we stayed at Yellowstone Suites B&B and drove the northern road inside the park between Gardiner and Cooke City which is open to vehicles year round. Access to this road and being able to drive ourselves was the reason for staying at the north entrance. Otherwise to enter the park from the west or south entrances, you’re restricted to riding snowcoaches or traveling on guided snowmobile tours.
Our room at the B&B was the Yellowstone Suite, not as large as the name would suggest but comfortable and cozy. Books and videos on Yellowstone are available for guest use and there’s a friendly black lab for those who miss their dogs back home.
It was very mild when we arrived in Gardiner about 45 degrees F with little snow. Gardiner’s elevation is around 5000 ft and the road climbs to about 6000 ft at Mammoth Hot Springs and over 7000 ft at Cooke City, so temps did get colder and colder as we traveled east. Aside from some photographers and wolf watchers with very serious looking equipment, there were few tourists along this road in the park. Within minutes, we were able to see bison, elk, pronghorn, and mule deer.
We spent the following day driving to Cooke City and back, taking pictures, looking for wildlife and hiking along the way. From Tower Junction, we walked to the Calcite Springs viewpoint and frozen Tower Falls. The trail was packed enough so that we didn’t need snowshoes and we passed only 5 other skiers along the way.
It was snowing quite heavily in Cooke City when we stopped for lunch. In the Lamar Valley area, we saw bighorn sheep and 5-6 members of the Slough Creek wolf pack stalking a herd of elk. Our wolf spotting strategy was to look for a row of spotting scopes and pull over. The wolf watchers were very friendly, inviting us to look through their 60X Swarovskis and identifying the pack for us. Unfortunately, the wolves were too far for us to get any photographs.
During our stay at Yellowstone we also arranged to spend one night in the Old Faithful area at the Snow Lodge and took the Xanterra (park concessionaire) snowcoach from Mammoth Hot Springs to Old Faithful. The ride took approx 4 hours getting to Old Faithful around noon. About one hour of that time consisted of stops along the way. On the way we saw coyote, a pair of bald eagle, trumpeter swan, Canada geese and a pair of bufflehead.
I’m glad we spent the night instead of taking a day trip which was our original plan. At mid day, the area gets a lot of visitors but any other time, you have it practically to yourselves. We walked up to Observation Point and had a great view of the Old Faithful area and passed only a big bull bison on the trail (kind of scary but he looked like he wasn’t about to go anywhere and we carefully skirted around him). Again the snow was packed enough so that we didn’t need snowshoes. Our Sorrels worked fine.
Our cabin at the Snow Lodge was circa 1970’s but the rooms in the main lodge looked fairly new. It was very cold in the Old Faithful area which is around 7000 ft elevation with nights dipping into the negative teens. Those not wanting to brave the walk to/from dinner can stay in the main lodge. My expectations for in park dining are generally rather low, but we had a surprisingly good dinner at the Snow Lodge restaurant. Make your reservations early. We booked about a month in advance and could only get a 5:00pm seating. There’s no other option for dinner.
There’s now a skating rink behind the Snow Lodge as well. I think it’s new because they mentioned that lighting hadn’t been installed yet. Skates are complimentary and located right at the back entrance and you help yourself. Evening programs by park rangers are available Thursday through Sunday (same at Mammoth Hot Springs) and we attended one on tracks and signs.
The snowcoach ride back to Mammoth Springs left at 2:00pm and we liked our guide, Darla, for the ride back much better than the one the previous day. Unfortunately, I don’t think there’s any way to request a specific guide so it’s the luck of the draw who you get. My only other complaint about the snowcoach ride is that it was rather hot in the vehicle on the ride in. Next time I think we’d opt for a snowmobile (though I’m not sure if you can spend the night this way). Given the choice between freezing or cooking, I prefer freezing
We took one last drive in the park and the early evening light coupled with a full moon was incredibly beautiful. During our stay in Gardiner, we had a couple of very good dinners at the Park Street Café. Sadly we learned that they’re closing for good this weekend as their landlord raised the rent significantly. Rumor is that a restaurateur from Livingston will open up a place in its location.
) and the wildlife is easily visible. Plus we love skiing and winter sports.We flew into Bozeman, picked up an SUV rental and drove 1.5 hours to Gardiner near the north entrance of Yellowstone. In Gardiner, we stayed at Yellowstone Suites B&B and drove the northern road inside the park between Gardiner and Cooke City which is open to vehicles year round. Access to this road and being able to drive ourselves was the reason for staying at the north entrance. Otherwise to enter the park from the west or south entrances, you’re restricted to riding snowcoaches or traveling on guided snowmobile tours.
Our room at the B&B was the Yellowstone Suite, not as large as the name would suggest but comfortable and cozy. Books and videos on Yellowstone are available for guest use and there’s a friendly black lab for those who miss their dogs back home.
It was very mild when we arrived in Gardiner about 45 degrees F with little snow. Gardiner’s elevation is around 5000 ft and the road climbs to about 6000 ft at Mammoth Hot Springs and over 7000 ft at Cooke City, so temps did get colder and colder as we traveled east. Aside from some photographers and wolf watchers with very serious looking equipment, there were few tourists along this road in the park. Within minutes, we were able to see bison, elk, pronghorn, and mule deer.
We spent the following day driving to Cooke City and back, taking pictures, looking for wildlife and hiking along the way. From Tower Junction, we walked to the Calcite Springs viewpoint and frozen Tower Falls. The trail was packed enough so that we didn’t need snowshoes and we passed only 5 other skiers along the way.
It was snowing quite heavily in Cooke City when we stopped for lunch. In the Lamar Valley area, we saw bighorn sheep and 5-6 members of the Slough Creek wolf pack stalking a herd of elk. Our wolf spotting strategy was to look for a row of spotting scopes and pull over. The wolf watchers were very friendly, inviting us to look through their 60X Swarovskis and identifying the pack for us. Unfortunately, the wolves were too far for us to get any photographs.
During our stay at Yellowstone we also arranged to spend one night in the Old Faithful area at the Snow Lodge and took the Xanterra (park concessionaire) snowcoach from Mammoth Hot Springs to Old Faithful. The ride took approx 4 hours getting to Old Faithful around noon. About one hour of that time consisted of stops along the way. On the way we saw coyote, a pair of bald eagle, trumpeter swan, Canada geese and a pair of bufflehead.
I’m glad we spent the night instead of taking a day trip which was our original plan. At mid day, the area gets a lot of visitors but any other time, you have it practically to yourselves. We walked up to Observation Point and had a great view of the Old Faithful area and passed only a big bull bison on the trail (kind of scary but he looked like he wasn’t about to go anywhere and we carefully skirted around him). Again the snow was packed enough so that we didn’t need snowshoes. Our Sorrels worked fine.
Our cabin at the Snow Lodge was circa 1970’s but the rooms in the main lodge looked fairly new. It was very cold in the Old Faithful area which is around 7000 ft elevation with nights dipping into the negative teens. Those not wanting to brave the walk to/from dinner can stay in the main lodge. My expectations for in park dining are generally rather low, but we had a surprisingly good dinner at the Snow Lodge restaurant. Make your reservations early. We booked about a month in advance and could only get a 5:00pm seating. There’s no other option for dinner.
There’s now a skating rink behind the Snow Lodge as well. I think it’s new because they mentioned that lighting hadn’t been installed yet. Skates are complimentary and located right at the back entrance and you help yourself. Evening programs by park rangers are available Thursday through Sunday (same at Mammoth Hot Springs) and we attended one on tracks and signs.
The snowcoach ride back to Mammoth Springs left at 2:00pm and we liked our guide, Darla, for the ride back much better than the one the previous day. Unfortunately, I don’t think there’s any way to request a specific guide so it’s the luck of the draw who you get. My only other complaint about the snowcoach ride is that it was rather hot in the vehicle on the ride in. Next time I think we’d opt for a snowmobile (though I’m not sure if you can spend the night this way). Given the choice between freezing or cooking, I prefer freezing
We took one last drive in the park and the early evening light coupled with a full moon was incredibly beautiful. During our stay in Gardiner, we had a couple of very good dinners at the Park Street Café. Sadly we learned that they’re closing for good this weekend as their landlord raised the rent significantly. Rumor is that a restaurateur from Livingston will open up a place in its location.
Feb 19th, 2006, 07:41 PM
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After Yellowstone, we headed to Big Sky driving back through Bozeman and then another hour or so south through Gallatin Canyon. We stayed at the Big EZ Lodge located about a half hour drive from the ski area. The Big EZ was wonderful and the staff there couldn’t do enough for you (where else are you going to find someone scrapping the ice off your car windshield at 7:00am?). Winter is their low season and at most there were 3 other rooms occupied during our stay. The meals were also excellent. We had plans to dine elsewhere during our stay but ended up dining at the lodge every evening because we were too lazy to drive anywhere else and oh yeah, the food was delicious.
The skiing at Big Sky is perfect for us with wide open intermediate runs and no lift lines. On some of the runs, we didn’t even encounter a single other skier or boarder. One morning we also took a dog sled ride out of Moonlight Basin with Spirit of the North Sled Dog Adventures. There were six sleds that morning with two people per sled and a guide every other sled. We got one without a guide because I wanted to drive
Make sure you tell them early, otherwise you might end up just riding and where’s the fun in that?
8 dogs pulled each sled and we were surprised how small the dogs were (avg 45 lbs) and that they basically looked like assorted mutts. Professional sled dog teams don’t look anything like a pack of huskies or malamutes which was the image I had in my mind. I had a great time driving and wished it lasted longer. And I managed to only tip the sled once! As I started to lose my balance I remembered our guide’s words “hold on to your sled and the dogs won’t drag you too far”. He was right, just a few feet head first into a snow bank
In the afternoons, we would head back to the lodge for snowshoeing, sledding and a soak in the hot tub. The lodge provides robes and slippers but we’d forgotten to pack our bathing suits so at the suggestion of the staff, we went in towels. It required a bit of careful maneuvering on our part but worked. Sitting in the hot water with steam rising and snow falling on our heads, we felt like a pair of Japanese macaques enjoying a warm winter soak.
Snowshoes and sleds are also complimentary for guests and you can go right from the lodge. The sledding is best on the road (it’s a private road so not much traffic) and I had a few spectacular crashes including one right into Mark
He still has the bruises to show for it. You know you’re not in LA anymore when they don’t even ask you sign an indemnity form.
At last, it was time to leave. Being as out of shape as we are at the moment, it was either go home or die from exhaustion. Knowing fully well what I was getting myself into, I booked the last flight out of BZN that evening. There was one later flight to Butte but where does that get us (who flies between Bozeman and Butte anyway)? As luck would have it, weather at SLC delayed our inbound aircraft and given the choice of overnighting near BZN or SLC, we decided to stay in Montana. We ended up at the HI Express in Belgrade that evening and flew home the following morning. I briefly considered rebooking another late flight the next day and skiing Bridger Bowl but decided not to push my luck.
Link to our photos - http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...d&x=0&y=somjp4
We had a really fun time. One of our best trips in the US ever and we’re now thinking about going back to Yellowstone in the spring or fall season too. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
The skiing at Big Sky is perfect for us with wide open intermediate runs and no lift lines. On some of the runs, we didn’t even encounter a single other skier or boarder. One morning we also took a dog sled ride out of Moonlight Basin with Spirit of the North Sled Dog Adventures. There were six sleds that morning with two people per sled and a guide every other sled. We got one without a guide because I wanted to drive
Make sure you tell them early, otherwise you might end up just riding and where’s the fun in that?8 dogs pulled each sled and we were surprised how small the dogs were (avg 45 lbs) and that they basically looked like assorted mutts. Professional sled dog teams don’t look anything like a pack of huskies or malamutes which was the image I had in my mind. I had a great time driving and wished it lasted longer. And I managed to only tip the sled once! As I started to lose my balance I remembered our guide’s words “hold on to your sled and the dogs won’t drag you too far”. He was right, just a few feet head first into a snow bank
In the afternoons, we would head back to the lodge for snowshoeing, sledding and a soak in the hot tub. The lodge provides robes and slippers but we’d forgotten to pack our bathing suits so at the suggestion of the staff, we went in towels. It required a bit of careful maneuvering on our part but worked. Sitting in the hot water with steam rising and snow falling on our heads, we felt like a pair of Japanese macaques enjoying a warm winter soak.
Snowshoes and sleds are also complimentary for guests and you can go right from the lodge. The sledding is best on the road (it’s a private road so not much traffic) and I had a few spectacular crashes including one right into Mark
He still has the bruises to show for it. You know you’re not in LA anymore when they don’t even ask you sign an indemnity form. At last, it was time to leave. Being as out of shape as we are at the moment, it was either go home or die from exhaustion. Knowing fully well what I was getting myself into, I booked the last flight out of BZN that evening. There was one later flight to Butte but where does that get us (who flies between Bozeman and Butte anyway)? As luck would have it, weather at SLC delayed our inbound aircraft and given the choice of overnighting near BZN or SLC, we decided to stay in Montana. We ended up at the HI Express in Belgrade that evening and flew home the following morning. I briefly considered rebooking another late flight the next day and skiing Bridger Bowl but decided not to push my luck.
Link to our photos - http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...d&x=0&y=somjp4
We had a really fun time. One of our best trips in the US ever and we’re now thinking about going back to Yellowstone in the spring or fall season too. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Feb 19th, 2006, 08:02 PM
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Patty,
Loved the report and the photos. Who's becoming such a great photographer, you or Mark???
Every weekend I run through Golden Gate Park to the beach and always take a little break at the bison paddock. I can't tell you how it did my heart good to see these beautiful creatures in the wild in your pics.
Thank you!
Loved the report and the photos. Who's becoming such a great photographer, you or Mark???
Every weekend I run through Golden Gate Park to the beach and always take a little break at the bison paddock. I can't tell you how it did my heart good to see these beautiful creatures in the wild in your pics.
Thank you!
Feb 19th, 2006, 08:11 PM
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Thanks, maj!
Leely,
I took most of the photos. Mark is the videographer. This may be a stupid question but why is there a bison paddock at Golden Gate park? There used to be a lot of bison on Catalina Island. They were brought over for a film in the 1930's (adaptation of a Zane Grey novel, I think) and multiplied. In recent years, they've tried to relocated and reduce the bison population on the island (not really their natural habitat!) and I didn't spot any on my last trip there.
P.S. - Mark was looking over my shoulder and I casually commented "Leely's from the Africa board". His reply "I know"
Leely,
I took most of the photos. Mark is the videographer. This may be a stupid question but why is there a bison paddock at Golden Gate park? There used to be a lot of bison on Catalina Island. They were brought over for a film in the 1930's (adaptation of a Zane Grey novel, I think) and multiplied. In recent years, they've tried to relocated and reduce the bison population on the island (not really their natural habitat!) and I didn't spot any on my last trip there.
P.S. - Mark was looking over my shoulder and I casually commented "Leely's from the Africa board". His reply "I know"
Feb 19th, 2006, 09:34 PM
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Patty,
The bison were brought to GG Park in 1891 as part of an early conservation effort; I guess they were greatly endangered at the time.
I had to look this up. Funny how one lives somewhere one's entire life and knows next to nothing about it. (One=me.)
Your whole trip sounds really cool. I was talking to my Africa-travel friend on the phone when I saw your report and told her about it. She said, "Has Patty been on vacation since November???"
The bison were brought to GG Park in 1891 as part of an early conservation effort; I guess they were greatly endangered at the time.
I had to look this up. Funny how one lives somewhere one's entire life and knows next to nothing about it. (One=me.)
Your whole trip sounds really cool. I was talking to my Africa-travel friend on the phone when I saw your report and told her about it. She said, "Has Patty been on vacation since November???"
Feb 20th, 2006, 02:58 AM
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Thanks for posting - we were in Yellowstone this summer and I was greatly curious about what it was like in the winter.
Sorry about Park St. Cafe - we had a great meal there in August.
We were told by Gardiner locals that in bad winters the bison are all over the place near taht entrance to Park and sometimes even decide to visit the town. Thanks for letting me see the Park thru your eyes - I hate cold weather (live in Boston) so may never make that trip.
Sorry about Park St. Cafe - we had a great meal there in August.
We were told by Gardiner locals that in bad winters the bison are all over the place near taht entrance to Park and sometimes even decide to visit the town. Thanks for letting me see the Park thru your eyes - I hate cold weather (live in Boston) so may never make that trip.
Feb 20th, 2006, 09:22 AM
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These were great, Patty! Someday I aim to get to Yellowstone myself. I think the snowshoeing looked really great. And, nice animal shots, too, of course. Did you hear much rumbling from the snowmobilers? (Haven't had time to read your report yet!)
Sharon
Sharon
Feb 20th, 2006, 09:29 AM
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Lynn,
I forgot to include the dates
We arrived in Yellowstone on Feb 8, left for Big Sky on Feb 12, and got home on the 16th (was supposed to be late evening 15th).
Leely,
So true. When visiting friends and family ask me what there is to do in LA, I come to Fodors.
I have a short trip to Zion/Bryce in March (I got on this NP kick and booked it yesterday) and will be bringing the dogs with us. I felt bad being away from them so much since Nov
It'll limit what we can do, but that's OK. The rabbits are definitely staying home. I don't think they're into road trips anyway.
I have another week in Hawaii in April but no concrete plans after that. Thinking about a long weekend in Big Sur in May and still trying to see if I can swing Mongolia this summer but timing may be a problem.
gail,
That pic of the bison crossing the road in front of a pickup truck was taken right in town. Pronghorn and mule deer were also at the edge of town. I can see why they like hanging out there. Unlike in the park, there was very little snow on the ground in Gardiner.
Thanks, AuntAnnie. Did you used to live near Yellowstone or work in the park?
I forgot to include the dates
We arrived in Yellowstone on Feb 8, left for Big Sky on Feb 12, and got home on the 16th (was supposed to be late evening 15th).Leely,
So true. When visiting friends and family ask me what there is to do in LA, I come to Fodors.
I have a short trip to Zion/Bryce in March (I got on this NP kick and booked it yesterday) and will be bringing the dogs with us. I felt bad being away from them so much since Nov
It'll limit what we can do, but that's OK. The rabbits are definitely staying home. I don't think they're into road trips anyway.I have another week in Hawaii in April but no concrete plans after that. Thinking about a long weekend in Big Sur in May and still trying to see if I can swing Mongolia this summer but timing may be a problem.
gail,
That pic of the bison crossing the road in front of a pickup truck was taken right in town. Pronghorn and mule deer were also at the edge of town. I can see why they like hanging out there. Unlike in the park, there was very little snow on the ground in Gardiner.
Thanks, AuntAnnie. Did you used to live near Yellowstone or work in the park?
Feb 20th, 2006, 09:37 AM
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Sharon,
We saw quite a few snowmobile groups going to/from Old Faithful. None on the other days. I believe the current in park limit is 700 sleds per day and they rarely reach that number. Seems like a lot to us but I guess it's nothing compared to what it was like before when there was no limit and you could go wherever you want. Now the snowmobiles have to travel in guided groups with a max of 10 sleds per guide.
We saw quite a few snowmobile groups going to/from Old Faithful. None on the other days. I believe the current in park limit is 700 sleds per day and they rarely reach that number. Seems like a lot to us but I guess it's nothing compared to what it was like before when there was no limit and you could go wherever you want. Now the snowmobiles have to travel in guided groups with a max of 10 sleds per guide.
Feb 20th, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Patty: thanks for sharing the excellent report and pics.
Yellowstone is magical in winter, the mix of freezing cold and snows in combination with the hottest underground thermal area on earth is incredible. It is definitely a place to be visited in all seasons although thankfully most will only make it in summer. I have not been in a couple of years and your trip has me longing to return.
Yellowstone is magical in winter, the mix of freezing cold and snows in combination with the hottest underground thermal area on earth is incredible. It is definitely a place to be visited in all seasons although thankfully most will only make it in summer. I have not been in a couple of years and your trip has me longing to return.
Feb 20th, 2006, 10:59 AM
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Loved the report, thanks!
We have only been to Yellowstone in the winter, and agree that it is amazing. We took a snocoach tour, but ours was freezing. I was pregnant and still cold...so that says a lot, lol!
We have only been to Yellowstone in the winter, and agree that it is amazing. We took a snocoach tour, but ours was freezing. I was pregnant and still cold...so that says a lot, lol!
Feb 22nd, 2006, 08:19 AM
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Thanks for a great report. Love the photos. Esp. the bison.
Hope you and the dogs enjoy your next NP -- too bad the rabbits can't come but we have rabbits, too and I agree, they hate car trips (though perhaps it's because there aren't any carpets to chew up or dig while en route--we have naughty bunnies!).
Hope you and the dogs enjoy your next NP -- too bad the rabbits can't come but we have rabbits, too and I agree, they hate car trips (though perhaps it's because there aren't any carpets to chew up or dig while en route--we have naughty bunnies!).
