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Where to stay between Torrey and GC South Rim?/trip with kids

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Where to stay between Torrey and GC South Rim?/trip with kids

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Old Jun 1st, 2014, 06:49 PM
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Where to stay between Torrey and GC South Rim?/trip with kids

We have used the last months planning our upcoming family trip to Utah and it has been a great help reading all the answers in this forum to decide on our itinerary, good places to stay etc., so firstly thanks for those.

The plan for our trip is almost set, but I would love help with a few last issues as well as good ideas/comments to the trip we have put together so far.

We are a family of 4 including 2 boys age 5 and 7. Also, I will be 5 months pregnant by the time of our trip in late June. So even though we are all in good shape and somewhat used to hiking, this is naturally not going to be a trip with a lot of strenuous hikes, instead we hope to get a to explore the wonders of the area from the easier paths.

I need help finding accommodation on our stretch between Torrey and Grand Canyon South Rim. We plan to drive route 24 to 95 and avoiding route 261 (and Moki Dugway) by going via White Mesa and Bluff on to 163 and then on to GC.

We have 2 days for the drive, but cannot decide on where to stay in terms of sights to see and accommodation available. We imagine it would make sense to make a stop in MV but where else and is MV worth while staying for the night or should we rather spend the time somewhere else? Any suggestions are very welcome.

Please also share any thoughts on our plan below. The plan itself is pretty set and we have created it based on a wish not having to rush and avoiding very long stretches of driving, therefore also leaving out Moab/Arches.

It would be great with suggestions for activities for kids (apart from the ranger programs) and stops/sights along the way that we just have to do – there seems to be so many to choose from. We are still planning the exact hikes we want to do and we will probably have to play it a bit by ear depending on moods, energy levels, temperature etc. Still, please share if you have good suggestions – also for non–hiking activities.

Day 1: fly into LV (stay one night)
Day 2: Drive from LV to Zion National Park (booked Majestic View Lodge 2 nights).
Day 3: Spend the day in Zion.
Day 4: Drive to Bryce (Booked Bryce Park Lodge 2 nights), explore park, see sunset.
Day 5: See sunrise - spend the day in Bryce - maybe a drive outside the park
Day 6: Drive to Torrey/Capitol Reef (booked BW in Torrey 2 nights), we expect to spend all day driving Route 12.
Day 7: Capitol Reef National Park (still need to decide on hikes/sights)
Day 8 and 9: Drive towards GC – please help with sights and accommodation for day 8 and 9.
Day 10: Arrive in GC South Rim (Booked Maswik Lodge 2 nights)
Day 11: Would like to do a river float trip – any suggestions? (possible at all for a pregnant and a 5 yo?)
Day 12: Drive to LV (stay one night)
Day 13: return trip

Thanks in advance for any input!
Sommer14 is offline  
Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 02:50 AM
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I would take route 12 south - one of the most beautiful roads in the US - with a stop at Escalante SP to give the kids a little break. There is a small museum and reconstructed anasazi village there. Continue on 12 to 89 to Page AZ. Take the smooth water raft trip on the Colorado river, see the dam view, perhaps a tour of Antelope Canyon. The smooth water raft trip is fine for a pregnant person and a 5 yo. If you want another water experience, you could get a boat trip on Lake Powell from Page too. There is plenty of lodging in Page, but if you think that is too far for one day, look for lodging in Kanab.

Fill your gas tank any time it gets to a half and you see a station.

Keep a cooler with plenty of drinks and snack/sandwich fixings. Drink ten times as much water/juice as you think you need and make sure the kids do too.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 04:08 AM
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Emalloy, it says they are doing hwy 12 on the way to Torrey

Here is what I would do and this will take all day before you even get to Monument Valley. First see Goblin Valley(this will be about an hour out of your way. Also, Little Wildhorse Canyon, which is right near the Goblins(don't get it confused with Wildhorse, you want Little Wildhorse)
You next stop would then be Natural Bridges National Monument. There are 3 bridges there, but Sipapu Bridge is one of my favorite Arches/Bridges period. If you aren't going to make the effort to hike down to it, then don't waste your time. It is a short hike, but you do go down a couple of very short ladders.
Next is Moki Dugway. Also see Goosenecks State Parks. The Goosenecks are 10 minutes from the Dugway and you will only spend about 15 minutes there, but they are neat to see.
I would stay at Monument Valley and it is worth 1/2 day or so there. You will want to take a Guided tour as it is the only real way of seeing the place, IMOP.

Dau 10 and 11. You have one day to many at GC, IMOP. You can't do a float trip in that short of time.

Day 12--Have pie at the Gifford House in Capitol Reef for breakfast. Eat it in the orchard picnic area nearby under the two huge trees there. Deer are almost alway present in the orchard area. Hickman Bridge and Cassidy Arch are my 2 faorite things at Cap Reef. You could hike to either or both of those.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 04:12 AM
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The way I had you going is HWY 95 and then 251. 210 miles and about 4.5 hours of total drive time from Goblin Valley to Monument Valley
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 04:13 AM
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Don't avoid the Moki Dugway. It's not that big of a deal going down it. It's GREAT!
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 12:51 PM
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Sommer:

I have done Zion, Bryce, Capital Reef, and Escalante all with kids. If you search my username you will see my trip reports. Between Capital Reef and the GC, there are several options. It would totally be worth it to see Goblin Valley and hike some of Little Wildhorse Canyon. Kids love it!! I wouldn't stop at Natural Bridges--too much of a hike for you and the 5 yo at this point. I don't think the Moki Dugway is something you need to avoid.

I would suggest that you stay in Bluff at the Recapture Lodge-it is a wonderful place with owners who can give you all sorts of suggestions for brief hikes in the area. There are several rock art panels nearby that are an easy walk. The Twin Buttes (or twin something...) Trading Post is a wonderful shop for Navajo and Ute crafts/art etc. I like it much better than Monument Valley as far as a place to stay. (and much, much better than Blanding for staying overnight) There is an excellent museum in Blanding that houses exhibits on the Ancestral Puebloans who inhabited the area between approximately 500-1300 AD.

Between Bryce and Cap Reef--see my Escalante trip report. The Petrified Forest SP in Escalante would be fun for you and the kids. And the Anasazi/Ancestral Puebloan museum in Boulder is interesting for kids too.

In Torrey, be sure to try Slackers for burgers and the Robbers Roost for coffee.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 01:23 PM
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I'll agree with everything Stanton says but the hike at Natural Bridges. It's maybe a 30 minute hike. The 2 ladders aren't exactly vertical. The tallest one might have had 15 rungs on it. It is not big deal, IMOP. Outside of a couple of Arches at Arches National Park, Sipapu is one of the best I've seen. I wouldn't waste my time going, if I weren't going to hike to it though. You can see it from the road, but just isn't the same thing
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 01:25 PM
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And about Slackers and every other greasy spoon hamburger joint in this part of Utah. They have this stuff called Fry Sauce and each place is a bit different. It is usually pink and is made of Ketchup and Mayo. Some people add vinegar, jalapeno juice, or mustard. Just didn't want you to miss it as it is somewhat unique
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 02:05 PM
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ha, ha!! Of course, you MUST have fry sauce!!!! Yes, it is worth the extra money. Such a Utah thing. We even have it in the cafeteria at work!
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 05:53 PM
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You guys are really a huge help, thanks all.
emalloy, thanks for the suggestions. As Spirobulldog mentions we will be driving route 12 between Bryce and Torrey, so it is great with your suggestions for the stops. We will make sure to drink tons and fill the car with gas often.
Spirobulldog, thanks to you as well. I saw your description of the little Wild Horse in another post (I think it was yours), and I really wanted to go, but wasn't sure it was worthwhile the drive out of the way - so thanks for bringing this to my attention again. Goblins Valley and Little Wild Horse is added to the list and maybe National Bridges.
Gifford House was already on our list - again from one of your previous post I'll look at Hickman Bridge and Cassidy Arch.
Statonhyde, I will definitely read more of your reports. And sounds like we will have to try the Fry Sauce!

All, do you think we can go from Torrey to Goblin Valley and Little Wild Horse and then drive all the way to Bluff afterwards – it seems like a long day?
I was thinking it might be better to find a place to stay somewhere on the way – though it does not look like there really are much lodging along 95? If it is possible to find accommodation along the way we could do National Bridges on Day 9, sleep in Bluff and then do Monument Valley on our way to Grand Canyon on Day 10. Or maybe we will cut our stay in Grand Canyon to one day and instead spend the extra day exploring the area around Bluff/Blanding and more time for Monument Valley. Not quite sure yet how to piece it together, but I will get there.

I have been concerned doing the Moki Dugway - so it will be okay in a standard passenger car?
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 07:55 PM
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Highway 95 - You will be driving through Hanksville. Insure you visit Woolverton's Mill at the BLM office (south of town a few blocks). A 30 minute tour - take a camera. Motels there are basic.
Blanding Utah - 'dry town' - all tourist services.
Bluff, Utah - Very historic town that Mormon Pioneers settled after their historic Hole in the Rock journey. http://www.thefurtrapper.com/Hole_Rock.htm

Recapture lodge has been travelers choice for decades, especially hikers. It is rustic, not luxury. See below for other options. Desert Rose is most modern.
http://bluffutah.org/lodging/
Insure you drive around town and view their very historic restored homes. Also, the cemetery where there is an ancient Anasazi ruin. If you have time, hire a river tour from one of the local guides. Highly recommend having dinner at very historic Cow Canyon Trading Post- the only place we eat dinner in that village. Call now for reservations (435) 672 2208.

Lodging at MV - My preference is Gouldings.
www.gouldings.com - Make reservations now. The Navajo also have a fine hotel on the rim of the park. http://monumentvalleyview.com/

From there to SRGC, the best hotel/trading post is Cameron Trading Post. http://www.camerontradingpost.com/ Note: They sell AUTHENTIC Navajo rugs and jewelry - not imitation junk found along the road. There may be a Navajo weaver on the premises.

Vaga
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 03:17 AM
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You will need about an hour at Goblins and then I would suggest hiking in about an hour at Little Wildhorse and then turning around. So 2 hours there. So, probably 4 hours total for the two of them.

Little Wildhorse does have a parking lot and it is a popular hike(not sure hike is the right word here). However, the entrance is a little tricky and wasn't clearly marked. I've done it twice and even on the 2nd time had a bit of trouble. Just don't give up, it might take you 5 minutes to figure it out.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 03:39 AM
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The Moki Dugway is fine for a regular car. You can see some pictures i took of it at
www.flickr.con/photos/emalloy2009/sets
in the 2010 set. Of course if it is raining heavily or snowing, I would check with the local folks for conditions.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 03:41 AM
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Typo that's

www.flickr.com/photos/emalloy2009/sets
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 09:16 AM
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There isn't anywhere to stay between Hanksville and Blanding (or Mexican Hat if you head down Moki Dugway). But there isn't much to stop for either so it is just a nice scenic drive. Doing Goblin's Valley, Little Wild Horse and then driving to Bluff in one day would not be too much.

I would take the time to drive Natural Bridges just because if you are skipping Arches it will give you a chance to see something similar. Sipapu may be spirobulldog's favorite, but there are two others as well and the Owachoma is more accessible for you and your five year old. (though last time I was at Sipapu it was me and a family of four kids and the youngest girl was probably about 4. They had taken her shoes off to wade in the stream at the bottom and she was climbing back up the rock barefoot. So Sipapu is certainly ok)

Then I would skip Moki Dugway and head to Blanding and go to the Edge of the Cedars State Park. It is a nice pueblo from the Ancient Ones, and is a good example of the other many ruins in the area. Then stay in Bluff for the night. Definitely stop at Twin Rocks, and the Ft Bluff the next day.

I would take the short detour up to Goosenecks for the great views,- (hold on to the kids) and then head to Monument Valley for a valley tour. If the cost for the whole family is too much (it adds up) then just enjoy the views from the rim. Still beautiful.

There are two places for a nice river trip. First would be in Bluff down the San Juan. It is a full day however and the second half of the trip might be a little boring for the kids. The second place would be in Page. They offer a half day trip down the Colorado from the dam. https://raftthecanyon.com/ These are a great way to experience the river canyon.

So I would spend that second night wherever you decided to take the raft trip. Either in Bluff for the full day trip. Or drive to Page after Monument Valley and take the half day trip from there.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 10:59 AM
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There is a motel in Mexican Hat that we stayed in, beautiful location right on the river, rather old, tired motel.

BTW we've stayed in Recapture lodge but I wouldn't stay another time, the room we got was very old, tired, etc. but DH wanted to stay there because Tony Hillerman talked about it in his books, The regular operators must have been away as the people at the desk knew very little about the area when we stayed.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 12:12 PM
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There is Valley of the Gods B&B
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Old Jun 3rd, 2014, 08:51 PM
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See the Recapture is the only place I stay in Bluff--been staying there for 20 years. Clean and neat and the people are awesome and all of the books to review for hiking etc. Never have had a bad stay. But if you want more modern, then it is not your place.

The Twin Rocks cafe/eatery is not bad for diner food in Bluff. I ate at Cow Canyon years ago and it was excellent but more gourmet--my kids wouldn't have eaten what was on the menu then. Not sure about what it is like now.
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Old Jun 4th, 2014, 11:11 AM
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Forgot about Edge of Cedars State Park - a must do stop especially for their pottery display.

http://www.stateparks.utah.gov/park/...te-park-museum. Quote from this web site.
"Visit Edge of the Cedars Pueblo, a village inhabited by the ancestors of contemporary Puebloan peoples from AD 825 to 1125, and climb down a ladder to enter the 1,000-year-old kiva. View the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) pottery on display in the Four Corners area. "

There are many ruins in the area. 3-Kiva is one of the better ones. There is also an excellent pictograph panel on the way to that ruin.

RE: Mexican Hat motels. All are basic and most acceptable. Inspect room before paying.
Note: The motel next to the river, as you cross the bridge, sells booze (or used to). This is the last place to purchase this refreshment until you leave the Navajo Nation.

Vaga
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Old Jun 4th, 2014, 05:24 PM
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Alright, so I have booked Recapture Lodge for 2 nights and we will get there after driving from Goblins Valley, where we will also do Little WIld Horse. That will give us a day for exploring the area of Bluff and Blanding - thanks for all the great suggestions in this area. We might do a river trip starting in Bluff, but I think InSandy is right, that it will be too long for the kids.
From Bluff we will go to Monument Valley area and stay there one night before driving to Grand Canyon, where we will just stay one night instead of 2.
We can't wait to go!! Thanks again….
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