What a start to our trip out West! Yellowstone trip report.
Jul 19th, 2007, 08:47 AM
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What a start to our trip out West! Yellowstone trip report.
After planning our trip for nearly 12 months it got off to a bad start! We were delayed in the UK for 12 hours and arrived in Chicago at 2 am. We had obviously missed our connection to Rapid City but were put up in a Chicago hotel (to which we arrived at 3 am) and were told to come back to the airport as early as possible (7.30 am!!) to see if we could get on another flight as stand by as they all appeared to be booked. We just about had time for a shower and a bit of a rest and were back at the airport to be told they could not get us on another flight for two days!! We were due to pick up a car at Rapid City and had booked two nights at a B&B Inn. We knew we had to be in Yellowstone by 2 July to keep our booking there, so decided the only thing we could do was drive from Chicago! The car hire cost us a further $350. Still we were on the road and after getting over the stress decided to make the best of things.
We stopped at Rock Island in Iowa for coffee and browsed the visitor centre there, which was really nice. Checked in at Best Western for the night. After breakfast we set out on the 80 heading West.
We made good progress and after a few rest stops arrived in Wall where we decided to stop. Not a good idea!! I had read mixed reviews on Wall Drug but thought we should see it. I can only say it was a complete waste of time. Thought it tacky and not at all what I had expected. We had booked in at Best Value Inn in Wall and again this was rather disappointing. However we caught up on some sleep and hit the road again very early next morning.
We stopped at Walmart and picked up a cooler and picnic lunch items and then drove to Mount Rushmore. We could only spare an hour here but felt it was worth it and this had been one of the things I had wanted to see. We made another stop in Deadwood for lunch and would have liked more time to look around.
We made an overnight stop in Billings at Days Inn, which was surprisingly good.
The next day things began to get MUCH better. We drove the Beartooth Highway to Yellowstone. This was absolutely fantastic as we had been told and we made many stops. Then we finally arrived in Yellowstone. We stopped for a picnic lunch and watched the ground squirrels. Saw loads of bison and then saw a brown bear! We had only just arrived in the Park and couldn't believe it! We checked in at Roosevelt and the cabins there were better than I had anticipated. We sat on the porch with a cocktail whilst waiting for a table for dinner. The meal was very good and we were again surprised because we had read such negatived reports about the food in Yellowstone. We drove out at dusk and saw another brown bear a little way out of Roosevelt towards Canyon.
We got up early the next day and drove to the Lamar Valley. Loads of bison blocking the road. We sat watching for a while and then as there did not appear to be anything else about we moved on to Canyon Village where we had breakfast. Saw Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which was an amazing sight.
We then went on to Norris basin and walked for miles along the boardwalks viewing all the geysers and hot springs. It was extremely hot and I had stupidly forgotten to bring along the sun lotion. Got quite a bad burn on my back which eventually blistered. We moved on to Beaver Lake where we had our picnic lunch. The hot springs at Mammoth were spectacular. Got back to cabin in time for shower before going on Chuckwagon Cook Out. This was great fun. Steaks were huge and coffee good, as was the company.
Our third day in Yellowstone we moved on to Old Faithful Lodge. Our room here was very good (great, we have a bathroom!!). However the shower was very temperamental and involved being frozen one minute before being boiled the next. On the way to the Lodge we saw a grizzly with two cubs and then a grey wolf walked out right in front of our car!
We had a nap and shower and arrived in front of Old Faithful, which was literally two minutes from our cabin, just in time to see her erupt! Walked the boardwalks amazed at how many geysers there were. Had dinner in OF Lodge cafeteria - yuk!! The Lodge looked dingy and there was food on the floor. However we wanted a quick bite to eat before taking a drive. We saw a herd of elk in the water and further on some more. We drove towards Artist Pots but it was beginning to get dark at this point. A family was leaving the site just as we arrived and we were the only ones there. I began to get scared and felt a bear might be lurking so we decided to retrace our steps. The family who had left were waiting for us as they were concerned about us being on our own out there. As they arrived at the car park there was a bison blocking the exit. Fortunately it decided to wander off!
We wished we had booked more time in Yellowstone - three nights were not enough but we had to move on to our next stop. We were booked in at The Ranch Inn in Jackson. The Tetons were so beautiful it definitely took our breath away and we made several stops just to take it all in. We had a Tower Room at the Ranch Inn. It was big with a microwave and fridge and we had a balcony! We had dinner at the Old Town Inn, which was quite good.
The next day was my birthday! We drove to to Jenny Lake and saw a young coyote on the way. We took the shuttle across the Lake and did the hike up to Hidden Falls. We had intended going on to Inspiration Point but it was extremely hot and as I have a leg problem we decided not to go any further. Watched the shootout in the town square and then had dinner at Sweetwater Restaurant. Food was very good and staff friendly. When my OH told our waitress it was my birthday she insisted I leave room for dessert as it was "on the house"!
Next day we continued on to Salt Lake City. We had to sample the raspberry shakes at Bear Lake as there had been several recommendations on Fodors! Mmm delicious! Checked in at City Creek Motel, which wasn't bad and then went into town. Temple Square was absolutely amazing. The buildings are so incredible. We had dinner at Lamb's - best meal we had had so far. Exceptionally good value. We then went back to Temple Square to watch a film about the life of Joseph Smith who founded the Mormons.
Next day Moab! Stayed at Cali Cochitta on the recommendation of a Fodorite. She didn't exaggerate. It was fantastic. The breakfasts were amazing and the couple who run the Inn are so friendly. We were here three nights and didn't want to leave! Had dinner at Pasta Jay's and this was very good.
Will continue trip report later!
Dot
We stopped at Rock Island in Iowa for coffee and browsed the visitor centre there, which was really nice. Checked in at Best Western for the night. After breakfast we set out on the 80 heading West.
We made good progress and after a few rest stops arrived in Wall where we decided to stop. Not a good idea!! I had read mixed reviews on Wall Drug but thought we should see it. I can only say it was a complete waste of time. Thought it tacky and not at all what I had expected. We had booked in at Best Value Inn in Wall and again this was rather disappointing. However we caught up on some sleep and hit the road again very early next morning.
We stopped at Walmart and picked up a cooler and picnic lunch items and then drove to Mount Rushmore. We could only spare an hour here but felt it was worth it and this had been one of the things I had wanted to see. We made another stop in Deadwood for lunch and would have liked more time to look around.
We made an overnight stop in Billings at Days Inn, which was surprisingly good.
The next day things began to get MUCH better. We drove the Beartooth Highway to Yellowstone. This was absolutely fantastic as we had been told and we made many stops. Then we finally arrived in Yellowstone. We stopped for a picnic lunch and watched the ground squirrels. Saw loads of bison and then saw a brown bear! We had only just arrived in the Park and couldn't believe it! We checked in at Roosevelt and the cabins there were better than I had anticipated. We sat on the porch with a cocktail whilst waiting for a table for dinner. The meal was very good and we were again surprised because we had read such negatived reports about the food in Yellowstone. We drove out at dusk and saw another brown bear a little way out of Roosevelt towards Canyon.
We got up early the next day and drove to the Lamar Valley. Loads of bison blocking the road. We sat watching for a while and then as there did not appear to be anything else about we moved on to Canyon Village where we had breakfast. Saw Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which was an amazing sight.
We then went on to Norris basin and walked for miles along the boardwalks viewing all the geysers and hot springs. It was extremely hot and I had stupidly forgotten to bring along the sun lotion. Got quite a bad burn on my back which eventually blistered. We moved on to Beaver Lake where we had our picnic lunch. The hot springs at Mammoth were spectacular. Got back to cabin in time for shower before going on Chuckwagon Cook Out. This was great fun. Steaks were huge and coffee good, as was the company.
Our third day in Yellowstone we moved on to Old Faithful Lodge. Our room here was very good (great, we have a bathroom!!). However the shower was very temperamental and involved being frozen one minute before being boiled the next. On the way to the Lodge we saw a grizzly with two cubs and then a grey wolf walked out right in front of our car!
We had a nap and shower and arrived in front of Old Faithful, which was literally two minutes from our cabin, just in time to see her erupt! Walked the boardwalks amazed at how many geysers there were. Had dinner in OF Lodge cafeteria - yuk!! The Lodge looked dingy and there was food on the floor. However we wanted a quick bite to eat before taking a drive. We saw a herd of elk in the water and further on some more. We drove towards Artist Pots but it was beginning to get dark at this point. A family was leaving the site just as we arrived and we were the only ones there. I began to get scared and felt a bear might be lurking so we decided to retrace our steps. The family who had left were waiting for us as they were concerned about us being on our own out there. As they arrived at the car park there was a bison blocking the exit. Fortunately it decided to wander off!
We wished we had booked more time in Yellowstone - three nights were not enough but we had to move on to our next stop. We were booked in at The Ranch Inn in Jackson. The Tetons were so beautiful it definitely took our breath away and we made several stops just to take it all in. We had a Tower Room at the Ranch Inn. It was big with a microwave and fridge and we had a balcony! We had dinner at the Old Town Inn, which was quite good.
The next day was my birthday! We drove to to Jenny Lake and saw a young coyote on the way. We took the shuttle across the Lake and did the hike up to Hidden Falls. We had intended going on to Inspiration Point but it was extremely hot and as I have a leg problem we decided not to go any further. Watched the shootout in the town square and then had dinner at Sweetwater Restaurant. Food was very good and staff friendly. When my OH told our waitress it was my birthday she insisted I leave room for dessert as it was "on the house"!
Next day we continued on to Salt Lake City. We had to sample the raspberry shakes at Bear Lake as there had been several recommendations on Fodors! Mmm delicious! Checked in at City Creek Motel, which wasn't bad and then went into town. Temple Square was absolutely amazing. The buildings are so incredible. We had dinner at Lamb's - best meal we had had so far. Exceptionally good value. We then went back to Temple Square to watch a film about the life of Joseph Smith who founded the Mormons.
Next day Moab! Stayed at Cali Cochitta on the recommendation of a Fodorite. She didn't exaggerate. It was fantastic. The breakfasts were amazing and the couple who run the Inn are so friendly. We were here three nights and didn't want to leave! Had dinner at Pasta Jay's and this was very good.
Will continue trip report later!
Dot
Jul 19th, 2007, 09:49 AM
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It sounds like you had a great time. I'm quite jealous, as we were thwarted in our Yellowstone/Tetons plans by Mother Nature. We had driven from Sandpoint, Idaho, around Flathead Lake to Missoula and then to Phillipsburg, Anaconda and then Butte...where we encountered a lot of snow--during the third week of May.
We learned that Phillipsburg, where we'd been before Butte, had received 16 inches of snow. It was a lovely little place, though. The whole town is on the National Historic Register. It must be quite charming in summer.
We stayed the night in Butte, and when we saw about six inches of snow on the railing outside our window we decided to give it up. It appeared that it would only get worse as we traveled east.
This September we are going to Ireland. I hope that in Sept. 2008, we will be able to complete the trip to Yosemite. We had especially wanted to see the dinosaur exhibits at the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman.
We learned that Phillipsburg, where we'd been before Butte, had received 16 inches of snow. It was a lovely little place, though. The whole town is on the National Historic Register. It must be quite charming in summer.
We stayed the night in Butte, and when we saw about six inches of snow on the railing outside our window we decided to give it up. It appeared that it would only get worse as we traveled east.
This September we are going to Ireland. I hope that in Sept. 2008, we will be able to complete the trip to Yosemite. We had especially wanted to see the dinosaur exhibits at the Museum of the Rockies in Bozeman.
Jul 19th, 2007, 11:24 AM
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Hi bennie - thanks for the reply. It wasn't the weather that held us up but engine problems. We were eventually told that the engine had been stripped and was in the test bay and that "hopefully" it would be OK! Not very reassuring when you are waiting to take off!
Hi Pegontheroad - sorry to hear your plans went awry because of bad weather but hope you enjoy your trip to Ireland. In spite of it being so close to where we live we have never been but have friends who have travelled there and it is reported as being beautiful.
We went to Yosemite some years ago and absolutely loved it. At the time they had had floods and we were only able to go into the Park in convoy starting at 5.30 am but it was certainly worth it.
Good luck with your plans
Dot
Hi Pegontheroad - sorry to hear your plans went awry because of bad weather but hope you enjoy your trip to Ireland. In spite of it being so close to where we live we have never been but have friends who have travelled there and it is reported as being beautiful.
We went to Yosemite some years ago and absolutely loved it. At the time they had had floods and we were only able to go into the Park in convoy starting at 5.30 am but it was certainly worth it.
Good luck with your plans
Dot
Jul 19th, 2007, 11:48 AM
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Trip report continued....
Woke early to watch sun rise and after another wonderful breakfast made by David at Cali Cochitta Inn we stopped by City Market for some picnic items to take with us to Arches NP. We had been told to go straight through to Devil's Garden while it was relatively cool and make our way backwards. This was certainly good advice. I did about half of the trail and then found some shade whilst my OH went on a bit further. What a spectacular place! I couldn't stop taking pictures. We did another couple of short hikes and stopped at various viewpoints. Loved the Windows section but think Devil's Garden was my favourite. However it was getting extremely hot (temp 111 degrees!) so we decided to go back for a nap and shower before going out for dinner, which we had at Eddie McSkiffs. Dinner was OK, not wonderful.
Next day we went to Canyonlands. We walked to Mesa Arch and stopped again at various viewpoints. We managed to find a shady bench for a picnic and watched the ravens who were looking for any scraps of food we might have. We drove up Potash Road on our way back to see the petroglyphs and then went some way along La Sal Loop. Far too hot to do much hiking today.
We had delicious pancakes with strawberries & cream for breakfast and then had to leave our lovely B&B. We were told Ouray was a nice place to stop on our way to Manitou Springs so we decided to try there. On the way we saw a golden eagle feasting on some dead creature in the road. We have never seen one at such close quarters before - it was magnificent. I have read so many positive things about Ouray but we were disappointed. The weather had clouded over so maybe that had some effect. However we were only there one night so perhaps we didn't give it a chance. We stayed at the Matterhorn Motel which was OK. It was clean but had no air conditioning, just a fan.
Our last stop was Manitou Springs. We stopped in Montrose to do some shopping and travelled on through the mountains in a thunder storm. We had booked a "cozy bungalow" in Manitou Springs and this was delightful and very well equipped with barbecue and brilliant deck area where we had several meals. After a restful night we visited the Garden of the Gods, which was just up the road. We took the bus tour which gave my husband a break from driving and then browsed the Visitor Centre. The Garden of the Gods Trading Post was brilliant for gifts and jewelry and also had a nice outside eating area. We loved it here. We did a few short trails before heading back.
Our last day and we had booked seats on the Cog Railway going up Pike's Peak. Certainly don't think we could have driven all the way up! At 14,110 feet we both felt a little breathless but that was the only time we had been bothered by the altitude. We saw some marmots on the way up. At the top we bought some doughnuts (not very good ones unfortunately) and sat and admired the view.
We returned to the bungalow for our lunch on the deck and then set out again to see the Cliff Dwellings. We watched a display by Indian dancers and then went back to Garden of the Gods where an open air concert was being held that evening.
We were sad that our trip was over but were both feeling ready to get back home and see the family. It was certainly a trip to remember. We had driven a total of 3,500 miles and had lots of fun on the way.
Love to go back some day!
Woke early to watch sun rise and after another wonderful breakfast made by David at Cali Cochitta Inn we stopped by City Market for some picnic items to take with us to Arches NP. We had been told to go straight through to Devil's Garden while it was relatively cool and make our way backwards. This was certainly good advice. I did about half of the trail and then found some shade whilst my OH went on a bit further. What a spectacular place! I couldn't stop taking pictures. We did another couple of short hikes and stopped at various viewpoints. Loved the Windows section but think Devil's Garden was my favourite. However it was getting extremely hot (temp 111 degrees!) so we decided to go back for a nap and shower before going out for dinner, which we had at Eddie McSkiffs. Dinner was OK, not wonderful.
Next day we went to Canyonlands. We walked to Mesa Arch and stopped again at various viewpoints. We managed to find a shady bench for a picnic and watched the ravens who were looking for any scraps of food we might have. We drove up Potash Road on our way back to see the petroglyphs and then went some way along La Sal Loop. Far too hot to do much hiking today.
We had delicious pancakes with strawberries & cream for breakfast and then had to leave our lovely B&B. We were told Ouray was a nice place to stop on our way to Manitou Springs so we decided to try there. On the way we saw a golden eagle feasting on some dead creature in the road. We have never seen one at such close quarters before - it was magnificent. I have read so many positive things about Ouray but we were disappointed. The weather had clouded over so maybe that had some effect. However we were only there one night so perhaps we didn't give it a chance. We stayed at the Matterhorn Motel which was OK. It was clean but had no air conditioning, just a fan.
Our last stop was Manitou Springs. We stopped in Montrose to do some shopping and travelled on through the mountains in a thunder storm. We had booked a "cozy bungalow" in Manitou Springs and this was delightful and very well equipped with barbecue and brilliant deck area where we had several meals. After a restful night we visited the Garden of the Gods, which was just up the road. We took the bus tour which gave my husband a break from driving and then browsed the Visitor Centre. The Garden of the Gods Trading Post was brilliant for gifts and jewelry and also had a nice outside eating area. We loved it here. We did a few short trails before heading back.
Our last day and we had booked seats on the Cog Railway going up Pike's Peak. Certainly don't think we could have driven all the way up! At 14,110 feet we both felt a little breathless but that was the only time we had been bothered by the altitude. We saw some marmots on the way up. At the top we bought some doughnuts (not very good ones unfortunately) and sat and admired the view.
We returned to the bungalow for our lunch on the deck and then set out again to see the Cliff Dwellings. We watched a display by Indian dancers and then went back to Garden of the Gods where an open air concert was being held that evening.
We were sad that our trip was over but were both feeling ready to get back home and see the family. It was certainly a trip to remember. We had driven a total of 3,500 miles and had lots of fun on the way.
Love to go back some day!
Jul 19th, 2007, 12:25 PM
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Lovely report, Dotty6! 
I certainly give you the gold medal award for good attitude, what with all the delays at the Chicago airport, then chucking it all and driving! Wow! Did you have maps for the whole drive, or did you just follow the sun?
You sure saw lots of animals. That's terrific. So many bears. I've been there several times and have only one time seen bears. We're heading there in September. What was the best spot for catching a glimpse?
How did you really like The Ranch Inn? Isn't that the place directly across the street from the fire station; and if so, did it cause a problem at night with sirens?
Thanks for such a great report!
I certainly give you the gold medal award for good attitude, what with all the delays at the Chicago airport, then chucking it all and driving! Wow! Did you have maps for the whole drive, or did you just follow the sun?
You sure saw lots of animals. That's terrific. So many bears. I've been there several times and have only one time seen bears. We're heading there in September. What was the best spot for catching a glimpse?
How did you really like The Ranch Inn? Isn't that the place directly across the street from the fire station; and if so, did it cause a problem at night with sirens?
Thanks for such a great report!
Jul 19th, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Hi kopp, thanks for your nice comments. Think we felt it was such a long awaited trip to celebrate my "big" birthday we didn't felt we just needed to "get on with it"!
We saw the grizzly and cubs and black bear on the road towards Canyon going from Roosevelt and saw another black bear in the other direction towards Mammoth. Hope you have some good sightings in September.
Ranch Inn was fine. We had a Tower Room top floor directly opposite the small fire station. We saw the fire engines go out twice but they never sounded the sirens and we were never disturbed during the night. We thought the Ranch Inn was Ok and was certainly a convenient location.
Regards, Dot
We saw the grizzly and cubs and black bear on the road towards Canyon going from Roosevelt and saw another black bear in the other direction towards Mammoth. Hope you have some good sightings in September.
Ranch Inn was fine. We had a Tower Room top floor directly opposite the small fire station. We saw the fire engines go out twice but they never sounded the sirens and we were never disturbed during the night. We thought the Ranch Inn was Ok and was certainly a convenient location.
Regards, Dot
Jul 19th, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Hi kopp - don't think my head is back in action yet. It was my first day back at work today and I think it is time I got to bed! I meant to answer your question about maps. We were given a map at the Alamo rental office giving general directions going West (on 80 I think). After that we had come prepared with maps for Wyoming, Montana, Utah and Colorado so didn't do too badly. We got a bit confused going through Rapid City as there were road works but otherwise did well!
Dot
Dot
Jul 19th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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Thanks, Dotty6. I've made a note of your info re seeing the bears.
Have you ever heard the saying "Go West, Young Man." Well, I guess that's about what you did! (Well, woman, lol!) I told my DH about your adventure, and he said something about making lemonade out of lemons. I'm so glad it turned out so well for you.
We love road trips. There's something about the wide open spaces and just driving that's so -- I don't know -- so relaxing, just to see what's out there. The most we've ever done is 6000 miles in 6 weeks.
Happy belated birthday!
Have you ever heard the saying "Go West, Young Man." Well, I guess that's about what you did! (Well, woman, lol!) I told my DH about your adventure, and he said something about making lemonade out of lemons. I'm so glad it turned out so well for you.
We love road trips. There's something about the wide open spaces and just driving that's so -- I don't know -- so relaxing, just to see what's out there. The most we've ever done is 6000 miles in 6 weeks.
Happy belated birthday!
Jul 19th, 2007, 08:36 PM
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Great report! I'm intrigued by all the animals that you saw. On our abortive trip to Montana, we saw a couple of bison, but they were some distance away. It must have been thrilling to see so many animals at fairly close quarters.
I live in the West (Washington State), so the occasional critter will wander into residential districts in town here. During the past couple of years there have been a small bear and a cougar trapped in trees and a moose wading in a pond.
Animal control people shot the bear and the cougar with tranquilizers and removed them from the area. The moose was so big they just let it be, and it wandered away after a while.
I live in the West (Washington State), so the occasional critter will wander into residential districts in town here. During the past couple of years there have been a small bear and a cougar trapped in trees and a moose wading in a pond.
Animal control people shot the bear and the cougar with tranquilizers and removed them from the area. The moose was so big they just let it be, and it wandered away after a while.
Jul 20th, 2007, 06:16 AM
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Hi again kopp. Thanks once again for your kind words and the birthday greetings. I didn't realise we had been so lucky in seeing the animals. We certainly did plenty of driving around and managed, over the three nights we were in Yellowstone to do the complete figure of 8.
Loved your DH's expression about the lemons!!
Look forward to hearing how your trip turns out. Good luck with the sightings!
Hi also Pegontheroad. Can't imagine what it must be like to have a bear, cougar or moose wander into town!! The only time we have had problems with livestock was when a sheep escaped from a field when I was travelling with my daughter and her family and it wandered into the road causing chaos!!!
Hope you get back to Yellowstone soon.
Loved your DH's expression about the lemons!!
Look forward to hearing how your trip turns out. Good luck with the sightings!
Hi also Pegontheroad. Can't imagine what it must be like to have a bear, cougar or moose wander into town!! The only time we have had problems with livestock was when a sheep escaped from a field when I was travelling with my daughter and her family and it wandered into the road causing chaos!!!
Hope you get back to Yellowstone soon.
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