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Old Oct 10th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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Washington D.C.--Museums, Monuments & Mount Vernon

After all the help I received from Fodorites planning this trip I thought I would post a trip report.

We are a 50-something couple and this was our first trip to Washington D.C. We decided only in August to make this trip. We usually spend more time planning trips but found a good airfare and hotel price so determined to take a week and see the capital. We arrived at Dulles airport early Saturday evening where Abe's Transportation picked us up and drove us to the Omin Shoreham Hotel. We easily checked in and were soon in our room ordering room service. There was a nice feature on the menu to create your own salad. I chose entree size which was way too big but very good. We enjoyed the comfortable room and peace and quiet after spending the day on an airplane. Our room had a king bed, looong bathtub (must be original to the 1930 building), walk-in closet and view of the Washington Monument in the distance.

Sunday October 3
Walked 19,000+ steps
 
We decided to treat ourselves to breakfast at the hotel this morning in an elegant room with sparkling chandeliers.  We walked around the grounds which are very pretty then took the Metro to the stop nearest the White House for photos.  We we were not able to get a tour of the WH but we were able to secure a Capitol tour on Wednesday.  We walked to the Washington Monument, and the Vietnam and Lincoln Memorials which were both tear inducing. Strangely the Lincoln Memorial gave me that "I am in Washington" moment more than the White House which we saw first.

We noticed a lot of trash on the Mall and from the signs on the ground recalled the march on Saturday. Clean-up from the march caused the street where the Trolley usually stops near the Lincoln Memorial to be closed and we could not find the temporary stop for the Trolley. We saw someone get out of a taxi and were able to take advantage of it and save the Trolley for another day.  Passed the Jefferson Memorial on our drive.  We went to Old Ebbitt Grill which a few people had recommended to us.  We were supposed to have dinner there with friends this night but one of them became ill so we had to cancel and decided to have a late lunch instead. DH had crab cakes benedict and I had roasted salmon with rice.  We shared a piece of peanut butter pie which was wonderful.  I would return just for that pie. I've searched online for the recipe and emailed the Old Ebbitt Grill to see if they will share but if anyone has that recipe please share!

We walked to the American History museum but we'll need to go back and spend more time there.  Julia Child's kitchen, a pair of the ruby slippers Judy Garland wore and Kermit the Frog were the highlights this day.  There is an exhibit on Lincoln and the First Ladies I want to see. The building is rather grey and uninviting and the interior isn't much better. Small rooms held the display of pop culture items and the lighting seemed dim. I understand the care with lighting for preservation but the overall presentation was not attractive.

Walked up the hill to the Metro then hit the CVS near our hotel.  We bought cereal, milk, bowls for breakfast the rest of the week.  We have a little fridge in the room and I joined their guest club when I reserved the room (thanks to another Fodorite).  We get two complimentary drinks each morning so  we'll get our juice, coffee and tea then add our own cereal. We'll be able to save a little money and get ready faster in the morning as we have a lot we want to see each day. We had a light dinner in the bar and watched some football to end this day.

Monday October 4
Walked 14,000+ steps
It rained in the morning but not a bad walk from the Metro to the Mall. Most of this day was spent at the Air & Space Museum. The entry into the Milestones of Flight made an instant impression with several famous aircraft including the Spirit of Saint Louis and an Apollo Spacecraft. We purchased tickets to two films for the afternoon then spent the morning in the many exhibits. Having grown up with the space program we were especially interested in this museum and spent significant time in the Apollo exhibit. We had childhood and teen memories of many of the missions and astronauts. We had been warned against the fast food in this museum so when lunchtime came walked to the American Indian Museum next door. The cafeteria there offered dishes with ingredients known to Native Americans so we shared the sampler which included salmon, bison and 3 sides. I wasn't too crazy about the bison (and I do like some game) at least it was freshly grilled. The rice salad was very good as were the sweet potatoes.

The American Indian Museum was in a beautiful building that stands out from other museums on the Mall for its architecture. The design and presentations of the exhibits were far superior to the American History Museum. The lighting and colors of the displays were beautiful. We could only sample a little of the 4th floor after lunch and hope to return. Gorgeous jewelry in the entrance to the gift shop was way out of my price range.

Returned to the Air & Space for the films. The first one, “To Fly”, was unimpressive on the development of flight. Disjointed and dated they had a lot of nerve charging $9 to view this film--we could have spent more time in the American Indian Museum. The second film, “Legends of Flight” was a bit of a Boeing commercial but a much better film. After visiting a few more exhibits and a purchase in the gift shop we headed toward downtown.

We walked past the IRS building and took the obligatory empty pocket photo on our way to the Old Post Office which I understood to have shops and restaurants. So disappointing. It was a food court with a few souvenir shops. Perhaps I confused this with Union Station? We left and headed uptown toward Ford's Theater to purchase tickets to Sabrina Fair. Too late, the box office was closed. We found a light dinner then returned to the hotel and ordered tix online for the following night.
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Old Oct 10th, 2010, 07:21 PM
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The main attraction at the Old Post Office is the viewing gallery at the top. Hope you went there. The Old PO is interesting architecturally but Union Station has far more in the way of shopping and dining.
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Old Oct 10th, 2010, 07:39 PM
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Nice report so far. Look forward to the next installment.

Have been to the Air & Space Museum several times over the last couple of years, but never went to one of the films. Now I'm glad I didn't.

Don't tell me you skipped going to the top of the Old Post Office's tower. It's the second best birds-eye view of the city (and some may even contend it's the best). That's the only reason to go there.

The recently completed renovation of the American History Museum just doesn't feel right to me either. I'll admit that the section for the Star Spangled Banner is nice & fitting, but the rest of the museum seems somewhat sterile. It used to be like walking through an attic filled up to the ceiling with old memorabilia on the walls and floors and in hidden corners that was fun to explore. But now it's like they went way overboard to clean up the clutter and compartmentalize things, and it's just not as interesting to explore.
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Old Oct 10th, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Y'know, I hadn't really analyzed what was "wrong" with the renovation, but I think you've hit the nail on the head! It still has great stuff, but it just isn't quite as fun to discover it as it used to be.
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Old Oct 11th, 2010, 08:57 AM
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Old Oct 12th, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Oh Furledleader I'm afraid we did miss the tower. I think I had confused Union Station with the Old Post Office and just wanted out of there. Later we remembered the tower but never managed to make it back. On with the report:

Tuesday October 5
Steps 14,000+
Spent a lazy morning relaxing at the beautiful hotel after the first two days of heavy touristing. Took the Metro one stop to Cleveland Park to look for an early lunch spot. Found a little French restaurant called Lavandou, I had a plate similar to our last night at the Chateau de Rochecotte in the Loire with dried fruit, salad and a selection of cheeses while DH had chicken, potatoes and ratatouille. He cleaned his plate. We're planning a return trip one night this week.

We walked about a mile through a lovely neighborhood to the Washington National Cathedral for the Tea & Tour. The tour was very interesting and could have gone longer for me. Jane, the guide, talked about the construction which began in the early 20th century using medieval techniques. She explained how, like an ancient cathedral, the building explains the gospel but US history is also represented. The stained glass was beautiful but my favorite window honors the Apollo 11 mission and includes a moon rock.

After the tour we went up the tower for tea. It was in a wood paneled room with great views over the city (helped make up for the old Post Office) and tables with tiered dishes holding little sandwiches, scones and desserts. I would have liked larger scones and a black tea otherwise the presentation and flavors were quite nice. We stopped in the garden shop and found some small gifts for sisters then were glad to find a taxi to take us back to the hotel to rest before the play tonight.

After sharing a sandwich from our lobby Starbucks we took the Metro to Ford's Theater. The museum was on our to-do list but when we saw “Sabrina Fair” was playing we decided to see that as well. The play is very different from the two Sabrina movies. We read that they had not changed any dialogue but cast a black actress in the lead and as her chauffeur father. The lead actress was very good as were most of the actors. The only miscast member was the French boyfriend. The set, the Larrabee's terrace, was beautiful and I loved the 1950's costumes. We visited the museum about Lincoln before the play.

After returning to our Metro stop we had a late dinner of shared macaroni & cheese at Open City which is kitty-corner from our hotel. It was really good so we want to go back there for another dinner. So many restaurants so little time.

Wednesday October 6
Steps: 22,951

First order of the day was our Capitol Tour through our Congressman's office. We were unable to get a White House tour but this was interesting. Patrick, a UCSB student and intern gave us the tour. He was pretty new at it but entertaining.

We stopped in the Library of Congress for a quick peek and some photos. Found lunch at the Hawk & Dove near Capitol Hill, pastrami & ham sandwiches. DH had a rare lunchtime beer (perhaps Congress drove him to drink) and one side of the glass read “Lambeau on the Hill”. I saw a neon Green Bay "G" and a sign that we could buy a Hawk & Dove glass but sadly the glasses for sale were not the Lambeau glass.

After lunch we used our hop on bus tour to get to the FDR, Korean War and WWII memorials and to get home in the evening. The Korean War memorial design seemed to borrow from the Vietnam Memorial but the addition of a sculptured platoon appearing to walk out of the trees lent a dramatic quality of its own. There were members of the Korean military placing a wreath while we were there.

We were donors to the WWII memorial in honor of my father and uncle so visiting this memorial was long-awaited and very moving. It is well sited between the Washington and Lincoln Memorials and does a good job of commemorating the branches of service and theaters of the war. How frustrating that it took so long to build. We saw a number of honor flight visitors, what a wonderful service they provide.

After returning to the hotel for a break we went back to Lavandou for dinner. This time we both had the delicious chicken breast with potatoes and ratatouille. I also had onion soup. We walked a little in the Cleveland Park area then stopped at a bakery/coffee spot for some cookies and a petite cupcake. Yum.
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Old Oct 13th, 2010, 05:31 AM
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Enjoying your report!

BTW - I STRONGLY suggest you walk across the Calvert St. bridge from your hotel to 18th St. and check out the many great restaurants in that area. It's about a 10 minute walk from your hotel.
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Old Oct 13th, 2010, 08:12 PM
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Thursday October 7
Steps, 15,173

Today was a light day with only 15,000 steps.  We took the Metro to Arlington to visit the Tomb of the Unknown and JFK's grave.  Didn't make it to the Marine Memorial because we had so much still on our to-see list.  Took the Metro from Arlington to a stop close to the Spy Museum.  Really enjoyed that museum.  Then onto the National Archives to see the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution then back to the American History Museum.  We had not seen the Star Spangled Banner and I wanted to see the exhibit on the First Ladies' clothing.  The flag was huge and truly moving. We didn't have time for everything so since we had seen the Lincoln exhibit at Ford's Theater visited the exhibit on First Ladies here. I looked for a book on the exhibit in the gift shop and was told it was out of print. Hopefully it will be updated and brought back. Interestingly there were reproduction pieces of Jackie Kennedy's jewelry for sale in the gift shop—like QVC! Back on the Metro (this was our biggest Metro day) we returned to our neighborhood and had dinner at Open City across from our hotel.  It was so warm today that the patio was filled so we sat by an open door.  They have great macaroni & cheese and we had a very fun waitress.

Tomorrow Mount Vernon and Alexandria
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Old Oct 15th, 2010, 06:47 AM
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Friday October 8
Steps: 14,000+
Mount Vernon & Alexandria

Took the red then yellow Metro all the way to the last stop on yellow to Huntington in Virginia. There is a bus to take to Mount Vernon but we found our timing was off and there would be about a ½ hour wait. Tom spotted a taxi stand so we splurged $25 to get there sooner. The estate was very interesting to visit. It was purchased by a women's organization in the 1800s to make sure it was restored and maintained. It was a beautiful day to visit and we enjoyed walking the grounds. Unfortunately one of the gardens was being restored so I was disappointed not to be able to enjoy that. Another garden was full of pumpkins and there were horses, cattle and pigs—lots of piglets. We decided to have lunch a little early before the crowds hit the Inn. It was pretty good, nice gift shop adjoining which I would visit at the end of the day.

During the walk through the house we could see how the house had been expanded and the sometimes vivid colors the Washingtons had used on the walls. Before visitng the museum and education center we checked the bus schedule so we could time our departure. Then continued our visit. We were disappointed in the 6 minute film. It was narrated by historian David McCullough and General Colin Powell but really didn't tell much about the man. The film that Disneyland had years ago on Lincoln was much more informative and we wondered why this one couldn't have been in the same vein. In the museum we learned that GW had been conflicted about slavery and granted freedom to his slaves upon his wife's death along with funds to help them in a new life. Martha Washington freed them a year later.

At the bus stop tourists helped each other determine which bus they needed. We met some fellow Hawkeyes from Tipton waiting for the 101 bus. Once back in Huntington we took the Metro just two stops to King Street in Alexandria. It is a charming town and we walked up and down the main street, took some photos, peeked in a few shops and had a light dinner. Then back on the Metro to our hotel to start packing.


Saturday October 9
For our last morning we treated ourselves to buffet breakfast in Robert's at the Omni then a walk around the leafy neighborhood. After packing up we relaxed in the beautiful lobby for about 20 minutes waiting for our airport transport. Our driver was very chatty and interesting. He was born in Palestine but was a Jordanian citizen. He had lived in many countries of the middle east but has been in the US for 30 years. He said his family lives all around the middle east, Europe and US and said that is typical for Palestinian families. Those who can get out that is. He shared that his son was born here in the US and, now an adult, has friends from all walks of life, other Muslims, Christians and even one friend who is Jewish. All have been to their home. We enjoyed the conversation.

The airport was not crowded so we got through security fairly easily and found our gate. Time to poke around in the stores. I bought a glass and bead necklace in a store called Appalachian Spring. They had gorgeous glassware and jewelry all made in the US. Finally our plane was ready to board. We chose Virgin America for the newer planes and the in-seat entertainment. We anticipated being able to watch football all the way home even though there had been a few rows (including ours) were the video stopped working on the flight to DC. This time the system on the entire plane was down. We were pretty annoyed but the cabin crew claimed we will get some type of refund on our credit card. (The credit turned out to be $20 each on a future flight--useless. We understood it to be a credit returned in form of payment.) I knitted all the way home and finished another pink scarf, DH read his magazine cover to cover. He didn't bring a book as we had the expectation of 5 hours of in-seat entertainment.

Looking back on the week and 500 photos later we packed a lot into a short time. Our favorite places were the Cathedral, Mount Vernon and Air & Space. We enjoyed walking in Washington both the Mall area and in a couple of neighborhoods. Had I to do it again I would try to squeeze a couple of extra days off work and rent a car to go to Mt. Vernon then visit Gettysburg. We were very pleased with the Omni Shoreham Hotel but confirmed that we are not big city subway riding folk. It's fine for a short time but we would not want to live the life underground for very long.
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Old Oct 15th, 2010, 12:15 PM
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They let you on the plane with knitting needles?
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Old Oct 15th, 2010, 08:19 PM
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TSA says the knitting needle prohibition is an urban myth. I know my wife flew with them back in the early 2000s and had no problem.
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Old Oct 17th, 2010, 07:22 PM
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I checked the TSA website before our trip and knitting needles are not prohibited. I bought 10 inch long plastic needles for ease of knitting in the confined space and thinking that plastic might be a better idea than metal. Knitting is very relaxing to me and I need that on a plane.
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Old Dec 12th, 2010, 01:12 PM
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We are planing a trip next month crossing our fingers the weather will be acceptable, I would like to ask you how did Abe transportation worked for you, I could not resist buying very very inexpensive tickets at Jetblue and the only bad thing it lands in Foster Dulles. Did you used the same service both ways, >? how much did it really cost>? are there extras like tolls, tips and the like ?Thank you.
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Old Dec 16th, 2010, 06:02 AM
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The National Building Museum at 401 F Street NW near the Verizon Center is magnificent, both the landmark setting and the exhibits (shows like World's Fairs of the 1930s).
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Old Jan 1st, 2011, 03:38 PM
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Hi Graziella,

Just saw your post and I'll have to check our receipts to see what Abe's Trans. charged. Seemed fair at the time. We did use their service both ways and found it through the Omni hotel. The only extra we paid was a tip to the drivers.
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Old Jan 1st, 2011, 07:55 PM
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Graziella, fyi if you are still checking this thread: Washington Flyer, the main taxi company that runs from Dulles Airport, estimates that a fare from the airport to downtown DC will run about $55: http://www.washfly.com/Taxi_rate.htm

The Abe's website does not quote rates, but suggests that "special rates" are available for hotel guests. You could use the $55 as a ballpark figure for comparison to ascertain exactly how "special" the rate is. http://www.abestrans.com/services.html

While there is a toll road running near Dulles Airport, vehicles going to and from the airport itself do not pay a toll.

Scootoir: I really enjoyed reading your report, thanks for posting.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2011, 08:26 AM
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Graziella: We paid $95 for 2 people for the trip from Dulles to the Omni with Abe's. Looks like the taxi suggested by MoonGirl above is quite a bit cheaper.

MoonGirl: Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed the report. We packed so much into a week that posting helped me keep track of each day's activities.
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Old Jan 6th, 2011, 04:16 AM
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Thank you all . However I changed the tickets from using Dulles to Reagan airport. Had to pay a penalty of $50 per tickets but I guess I did the right thing. Hotel is across the street from subway stop.
Any last minute advice for enjoying Washington>?
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Old Jan 6th, 2011, 08:01 AM
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...Had to pay a penalty of $50 per tickets...

But you saved $100 in getting from/to Dulles. Not to mentioned the saved time. A cautionary note for those thinking it's "cheaper" to fly into Dulles or BWI if the plane ticket is $25-$50 less.

Have a great trip - look forward to your report.
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