Those Wild Chickens in Kauai are Delicious!: A Songdoc Trip Report

Well, I didn’t personally try them – but some locals told me that many people eat them and use green papaya as a natural tenderizer. Now that I’ve got your attention …

THE SCOOP & CAST OF CHARACTERS:

July 24 – August 18, 2010

Me: 54; male; hopelessly in love with Kauai. When I step off the plane I feel I’ve returned home. I travel extensively, to many beautiful places—but have never felt anything like this phenomenon. I’ve been spending a month twice a year to get my fix.

DP: 58; male; NOT in love with Kauai – but I’m working on it and I seem to be wearing him down . (He “likes” Kauai—but prefers the cold, rugged seacoast and mountains of Northern Ireland)

I return each summer to teach and perform at the fantastic Kauai Music Festival—where every year, I hear Hawaiian artists who blow me away. This year, O’Brien and his all male hula troupe were the most memorable amongst many highlights at the four-hour-long closing show. I loved every minute.

Of course, I had to arrive early (um, er … to adjust to the time change before having to be brilliant) and I added on an additional 2-1/2 weeks after the festival to … um, er … wind down .


ACCOMMODATIONS:

The music festival is held at the Hilton Kauai Beach Resort—five minutes from the airport on the east coast. The hotel was fine. Nice rooms; nice pool; pretty beach (but not for swimming); the breakfast buffet was excellent. The one negative is that that there is nothing within walking distance. But that said, it’s a central location for driving to other parts of the island.

Since I was arriving in the evening after a long trek from Nashville (3 flights) I decided to spend my pre-festival three nights close by. Found an ocean front unit (listed at VRBO.com/80939; vinglo@mindspring.com) at Pono Kai for $110/nt. (unit C-204). My heart lives on the North Shore—so I didn’t have high expectations. Those first nights were basically to adjust.

I was surprised at how much I enjoyed my stay on the “Coconut Coast.” The unit was spacious; beautifully decorated; thoroughly equipped; and if the balcony had been any closer to the ocean I could have snorkeled without leaving the condo. The views and breezes from the chaise lounge on the balcony were heavenly.

I loved being able to walk to restaurants in Kapa’a; having the supermarkets so close by—and having my favorite walking path (to Kealia Beach) right outside my door. Also really enjoyed the pool and spa. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed my stay and I wished it had been longer. But … would I trade it for the North Shore? No.

After the festival I returned to my idea of heaven: an ocean front condo at Sealodge in Princeville. I’ve stayed there many times in different units. Chose to return to D-4 (robertlundgren@cox.net) for my third time because:

1) the owner gave me a great deal for my return, extended stay; and 2) it’s the only 1-br in the complex with a/c. It was great.

While the ocean view was gorgeous, the units that face the Anini reef and lighthouse get the full breezes and IMO the primo views. But you pay for that premium view. I got those same views by moving my chaise lounge 6 feet away from my lanai—but if $$$ were of no consideration I’d have chosen a unit facing the lighthouse.

WEATHER:

I left behind sweltering humidity and temps that reached 101 in Nashville—and traded them for cool mornings and evenings; highs of 84; blissful, gentle breezes; and (mostly) sunny, blue skies. Only used the a/c briefly a few times—and would have been fine without it.

There were brief, intermittent showers most days—but only two days (out of 3-1/2 weeks) were what I’d call “mostly rainy.”

ACTIVITIES:

I’ve been to Kauai many times and go there primarily to enjoy the beauty—and to write in an exquisite setting – not to sightsee, zipline, snorkel, eat gourmet meals, kayak, or to have adventures.

My idea of a perfect day is: watching the sunrise over the Anini reef; sipping a homemade pineapple/banana/mango smoothie and eating breakfast while looking out over the ocean from my patio; going for a long morning walk at Ke’e or Anini Beach; writing on my patio; napping; more writing; more smoothies (this time, adding blueberries); a sunset stroll in the surf at Hanalei Bay; more writing; then drifting off to sleep to the sound of the ocean’s lullaby. I did this most days.

But DP gets bored while I’m writing, so (in my attempt to encourage him to fall hopelessly in love with the Garden Isle) I added a few activities.

BOAT TOUR OF NAPALI CLIFFS

Chose to sail with Captain Sundown because they left from Hanalei—and because they offered a 3-hour sunset tour without snorkeling. ($144 pp incl. snacks, soft drinks, tax & gratuities) The crew was fantastic—knowledgeable and enthusiastic. I was especially impressed by their ability to circumvent the rain showers on our way out. But they were unable to eliminate the mist and heavy clouds that shrouded the cliffs, almost completely obscuring them. When the mist turned to rain—I wrote the trip off as a bust.

Oh, but wait … then the most incredible rainbows appeared and it was pure magic. One of the crew members (Larry) offered to snap photos of the passengers “holding” a rainbow. It was very cool. (My photo link is below.)

The clouds and mist parted to reveal the Napali Coast in breathtaking light—crowned with the most intense, vivid rainbows I’ve ever seen. A few turtles popped to say “hello.” The trip was magnificent and I felt unbelievably lucky.

The ride back was rainy and much colder than I’d expected. I should have brought the windbreaker or jacket they’d recommended!

WAIMEA CANYON/KALALAU LOOKOUT

Left Princeville around 8:15AM and arrived at Waimea Canyon Lookout at 10 AM. The sky was a cloudless brilliant blue. But the morning light wasn’t ideal for photos. I wasn’t getting the shadows and colors I’ve seen at other times—and many of the waterfalls were dry due to the drought. But it was still remarkably beautiful.

Note: we chatted with several people who had taken the long drive to see Waimea Canyon—and had no idea they were only minutes away from the breathtakingly beautiful, “must-see” Kalalau Lookout.

Continuing on to the Kalalau Lookout the potholes on the three mile stretch of road between Koke’e Lodge and the lookout were horrendous. It was like driving an obstacle course. At times the only way to avoid a broken axle was to scrape into the bushes and shrubs that line the road. But all was forgiven when I glimpsed what I truly believe is the most beautiful view in the world. I’ve been to the Kalalau Lookout several times—but had never seen it so clear. It was spectacular—but I must admit I missed the mystical feeling of seeing it shrouded in mist. In the past I’ve seen double rainbows there. This time: only sunshine—but I’m not complaining.

We continued on the road to the nearby Pihea lookout—and the beginning of the Pihea Trail. On a previous visit we hiked that trail and it was muddy and treacherous. (During this recent visit I read in the newspaper that two people had to be air lifted off the trail—one with a broken leg. Someone was air lifted off the Kalalau Trail, as well that same week. I’m surprised it doesn’t happen every day.)

This time the trails were bone dry and I was disappointed to learn that this presented a different danger. The powdery clay could be just as slippery as mud. (Imagine hiking up a steep, smooth surface sprinkled with dry sand.) We walked only about ten minutes, enjoying those gorgeous views … knowing that our plan was to do the Canyon Trail.

We had a delightful pre-hike picnic under a shady tree with lots of chickens and red-crested cardinals near the Koke’e Museum/Restaurant. We’d brought delicious sandwiches from Foodland. It was such a peaceful, lovely spot.

I had done the Canyon Trail once before—but had forgotten how absolutely spectacular it is. For me, this is the perfect way to see Waimea Canyon and get some exercise. It’s a little less than 4 miles (round trip) and nowhere near as demanding or dangerous as the Kalalau Trail—yet the views are simply incredible.

The waterfall on the trail had become little more than a trickle due to ongoing drought—but it’s still a beautiful setting, with pools of water and a stream studded with tropical ferns. In the past I’d turned back after seeing the waterfall. This time, we continued the short distance to a lookout that was indescribably gorgeous. Oh, and did I mention that it was a blissful 68 degrees? (Author’s note: HELP! I’m running out of superlatives!!!)

On our way back we stopped at the Kauai Coffee Company Plantation for me to stock up on my addiction: Coconut Caramel Crunch decaf. (At times the Wal-Mart in Lihue has carried it—but this time I couldn’t find it anywhere other than the source. I’d already bought two huge bags of the caffeine variety at Costco.) The coffee company is in a beautiful setting and it’s heaven for a coffee lover like me. I sampled some delicious brews and enjoyed seeing the coffee growing and learning about how it gets from the field to my cup. They have a terrific gift shop, too.

This was a wonderful, but very long day—almost twelve hours (including a dinner stop).

NA’AINI KAI BOTANIC GARDENS

Very nice, pleasant way to spent the day—but it was one of our few “mostly rainy” days and I suspect I would have appreciated it more in the sunshine. Photos were mostly a bust—until the last hour. The only tour available on the day we wanted it was the full 5-hour deal ($75 pp including lunch). I think I would have preferred the shorter tour, featuring only the highlights. The gardens are home to more than 125 beautiful bronze sculptures. The lunch (overlooking a beautiful beach) was surprisingly good and our guides were knowledgeable and personable. We enjoyed it—but I wouldn’t call this a “must-see” for those with limited time.


FOOD:

Costco is my friend I couldn’t believe how much I saved by stocking up before heading to the condo. Of course, this wouldn’t work unless you’re a Costco member and are staying for quite a while—at a place with a kitchen.)

Most of my meals were eaten on the patio at the condo. I didn’t do much “cooking”; mostly bought prepared food at the Foodland deli. (terrific teriyaki chicken; roast “huli huli” chicken; Portuguese sausage meatloaf, potato wedges, feta orzo salad …) and those huge, made-to-order sandwiches at ($5.99; $6.29 w/cheese).

Also enjoyed:

House of Noodles (in Kapa’a) -- for delicious chow mein

Waipouli Family Restaurant (in the shopping center with Foodland in Wailua) – for the BEST broccoli beef

Papaya’s – health food store & takeaway with a great salad bar

Kountry Kitchen (in Kapa’a) -- for banana and macadamia nut pancakes that should be illegal. (DP went for the massive Luau omelet—stuffed with kahlua pig, spinach, cheese, & mushrooms.) LOVE this place!

and of course … Hamura’s Saimin (in Lihue) -- for their amazing “special” saimin and teriyaki chicken sticks.

But undoubtedly, the most delicious, romantic, and memorable meal of the trip was plump, luscious shrimp perfectly sautéed with red peppers, onions, kalamata onions, sun-dried tomatoes, and feta cheese—served on a bed of melt-in-your mouth gnocchi. This dish was served on my patio at sunset. It could be the culinary highlight of your trip, as well … um, er for the cost of my plane ticket—and accommodations . hehehe

PHOTOS:

Kauai is photographers’ heaven. Don’t take my word for it. Check ‘em out:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=995070206506%3A1616964043&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee

That’s all for now. Gotta plan my return trip to paradise!