Thank God I'm a Mountain Girl
Jun 12th, 2016, 02:00 PM
#1
Thank God I'm a Mountain Girl
June 3-7, 2016
Palisade/Grand Junction (two nights)
Ouray (one night)
Crested Butte (two nights)
The sun is just rising as we leave home, the day promising. Three minutes later my OCD kicks in. Our ten minute lead is lost as we return to the house to make sure the heated mattress pad has been turned off. We’re on a schedule, planning to meet friends in Eagle, near Vail, for a 9 am breakfast.
Pikes Peak looms ahead in all her snow-covered glory. Soon we’re on US 24 headed west; 6 am, 43 degrees; a deliciously cool Colorado summer morning.
We work our way west through mountainous landscape, passing through small towns dotted with propane tanks, advertisements for tractor pulls, grazing cows, abundant places of worship and ranches named Lazy This and Lazy That.
We pass deserted campgrounds, the highway wonderfully empty; we’re surrounded by evergreens and tall grass the color of straw, lazily swaying in the wind. The aspen trees at this altitude are just beginning to bud. It suddenly occurs to me how much of this I, a spoiled mountain girl, take for granted.
We drive past the newly re-opened Wilkerson Pass Visitor’s Center (closed for over a year due to major issues with the toilets) a popular rest stop located at 9,507 feet.
Then begins the decent into the valley; the distant snow-covered Colligates on full display before us. As a child I hated this drive; straight, relatively flat (for CO anyway) and to my young eyes...seemingly endless. Many moons on I thoroughly enjoy this stretch of single lane highway, cresting one gentle hill just to see a dozen more exactly like it.
This is the real South Park, a basin in the Rocky Mountains, home to the fictional small town of South Park from the animated television series of the same name...and to some pretty spectacular scenery. We drive through the wide open valley floor rimmed with snow covered mountains, antelope grazing just beyond the snow fence that lines the highway.
We slow as we pass through the tiny community of Hartsel, population 677. We expectantly watch the car temperature gauge dip to 39 degrees as we approach a locally known ‘cold spot’.
We turn left on 24/285 towards Buena Vista, leaving the prairie behind as we begin to climb through forest. Road crews are blasting through rock to change the highway lane pattern; we come to a halt, hopes of that 9 am breakfast dimming with every minute.
I’ve always liked Buena Vista (Spanish for ‘good view’, which is an understatement). It sits at the foot of the Continental Divide and is considered by some the nation’s white water rafting capital, in addition to being home to ten of CO’s 14ners (mountain peaks over 14,000).
We forge on, the Arkansas River and rock formations on one side, those imposing 14ners on the other, including Mt Elbert, the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains at 14,433 feet.
Some two hours after leaving home, we’re in the former silver mining town of Leadville, elevation 10,152, and working our way further up, through San Isabel National Forest and over Tennessee Pass, traversing the Continental Divide, now at 10,424 feet, with a smattering of leftover snow.
The river is near bursting, the landscape surprisingly green as we approach the tiny town of Red Cliff, which yes, is overlooked by a red cliff. The roads become sickeningly curvy; we pass 13,327 foot Notch Mountain, which yes, has a notch.
The aspens are in full leaf as we descend into Minturn, the pretty little town long and skinny, situated in a narrow river valley. The houses are positioned right alongside the river, disconcerting, as the river is swollen and running fast.
We join I-70 and merge into the traffic zipping east, the 75 mph speed limit feeling strange after our much slower drive through the mountains.
We exit at Eagle, only five minutes behind schedule. The couple we’re meeting wanders into the Eagle Diner about ten minutes after we arrive, so we’re not late afterall. Chile rellenos with green chile, hash browns and refried beans all around, breakfast of champions. Our friends like this place, but us...not-so-much. Edible sure, but bland and uninspired, which sets the tone for the next few days.
I don’t know why, but I was expecting Eagle to be a small town, and I guess technically it is, but its proximity to Vail, Beaver Creek and Glenwood Springs makes it feel much bigger...there’s even a nearby Costco, which evidently serves the entire valley.
Stomachs full, we continue our drive, following our friends up I-70, a bit overwhelmed by the speed and volume of traffic, particularly the semis.
The views are spectacular as we work our way up narrow Glenwood Canyon via the second deck of I-70, an engineering marvel and one of the most expensive rural highways per mile built in the United States.
It’s been ages since either of us has been up this way, and we’d forgotten how pretty it is through here - the bright red rocks, greenery growing up its sides, the CO river dotted with rafters running far below – fabulous.
We feel the temperature rising as we forge west, the landscape changing; the green replaced with rocky bluffs and sand as we approach the town of Silt, some 185 miles west of Denver. It just feels dusty. Soon we’re surrounded by sagebrush and scrub; the mountain peaks gone, their tops missing, now flat topped mesas. Nirvana for the geologically inclined maybe, but personally, landscapes like this just make me thirsty.
We pass through dry crunchy towns with names like Meeker, Parachute and Battlement Mesa, wondering where the pretty went, the elevation now a mere 5,095 feet. The temperature has risen to 84 degrees; I almost expect to be assaulted by the black Australian fly when we step out of the car.
On our right is a formidable, pale, chalk-like mesa. Quite suddenly, to our left and below a beautiful sight unfolds...field after field of glorious lush green, the vineyards and orchards of Palisade. The contrast is fascinating.
We’ve arrived.
Palisade/Grand Junction (two nights)
Ouray (one night)
Crested Butte (two nights)
The sun is just rising as we leave home, the day promising. Three minutes later my OCD kicks in. Our ten minute lead is lost as we return to the house to make sure the heated mattress pad has been turned off. We’re on a schedule, planning to meet friends in Eagle, near Vail, for a 9 am breakfast.
Pikes Peak looms ahead in all her snow-covered glory. Soon we’re on US 24 headed west; 6 am, 43 degrees; a deliciously cool Colorado summer morning.
We work our way west through mountainous landscape, passing through small towns dotted with propane tanks, advertisements for tractor pulls, grazing cows, abundant places of worship and ranches named Lazy This and Lazy That.
We pass deserted campgrounds, the highway wonderfully empty; we’re surrounded by evergreens and tall grass the color of straw, lazily swaying in the wind. The aspen trees at this altitude are just beginning to bud. It suddenly occurs to me how much of this I, a spoiled mountain girl, take for granted.
We drive past the newly re-opened Wilkerson Pass Visitor’s Center (closed for over a year due to major issues with the toilets) a popular rest stop located at 9,507 feet.
Then begins the decent into the valley; the distant snow-covered Colligates on full display before us. As a child I hated this drive; straight, relatively flat (for CO anyway) and to my young eyes...seemingly endless. Many moons on I thoroughly enjoy this stretch of single lane highway, cresting one gentle hill just to see a dozen more exactly like it.
This is the real South Park, a basin in the Rocky Mountains, home to the fictional small town of South Park from the animated television series of the same name...and to some pretty spectacular scenery. We drive through the wide open valley floor rimmed with snow covered mountains, antelope grazing just beyond the snow fence that lines the highway.
We slow as we pass through the tiny community of Hartsel, population 677. We expectantly watch the car temperature gauge dip to 39 degrees as we approach a locally known ‘cold spot’.
We turn left on 24/285 towards Buena Vista, leaving the prairie behind as we begin to climb through forest. Road crews are blasting through rock to change the highway lane pattern; we come to a halt, hopes of that 9 am breakfast dimming with every minute.
I’ve always liked Buena Vista (Spanish for ‘good view’, which is an understatement). It sits at the foot of the Continental Divide and is considered by some the nation’s white water rafting capital, in addition to being home to ten of CO’s 14ners (mountain peaks over 14,000).
We forge on, the Arkansas River and rock formations on one side, those imposing 14ners on the other, including Mt Elbert, the highest peak in the Rocky Mountains at 14,433 feet.
Some two hours after leaving home, we’re in the former silver mining town of Leadville, elevation 10,152, and working our way further up, through San Isabel National Forest and over Tennessee Pass, traversing the Continental Divide, now at 10,424 feet, with a smattering of leftover snow.
The river is near bursting, the landscape surprisingly green as we approach the tiny town of Red Cliff, which yes, is overlooked by a red cliff. The roads become sickeningly curvy; we pass 13,327 foot Notch Mountain, which yes, has a notch.
The aspens are in full leaf as we descend into Minturn, the pretty little town long and skinny, situated in a narrow river valley. The houses are positioned right alongside the river, disconcerting, as the river is swollen and running fast.
We join I-70 and merge into the traffic zipping east, the 75 mph speed limit feeling strange after our much slower drive through the mountains.
We exit at Eagle, only five minutes behind schedule. The couple we’re meeting wanders into the Eagle Diner about ten minutes after we arrive, so we’re not late afterall. Chile rellenos with green chile, hash browns and refried beans all around, breakfast of champions. Our friends like this place, but us...not-so-much. Edible sure, but bland and uninspired, which sets the tone for the next few days.
I don’t know why, but I was expecting Eagle to be a small town, and I guess technically it is, but its proximity to Vail, Beaver Creek and Glenwood Springs makes it feel much bigger...there’s even a nearby Costco, which evidently serves the entire valley.
Stomachs full, we continue our drive, following our friends up I-70, a bit overwhelmed by the speed and volume of traffic, particularly the semis.
The views are spectacular as we work our way up narrow Glenwood Canyon via the second deck of I-70, an engineering marvel and one of the most expensive rural highways per mile built in the United States.
It’s been ages since either of us has been up this way, and we’d forgotten how pretty it is through here - the bright red rocks, greenery growing up its sides, the CO river dotted with rafters running far below – fabulous.
We feel the temperature rising as we forge west, the landscape changing; the green replaced with rocky bluffs and sand as we approach the town of Silt, some 185 miles west of Denver. It just feels dusty. Soon we’re surrounded by sagebrush and scrub; the mountain peaks gone, their tops missing, now flat topped mesas. Nirvana for the geologically inclined maybe, but personally, landscapes like this just make me thirsty.
We pass through dry crunchy towns with names like Meeker, Parachute and Battlement Mesa, wondering where the pretty went, the elevation now a mere 5,095 feet. The temperature has risen to 84 degrees; I almost expect to be assaulted by the black Australian fly when we step out of the car.
On our right is a formidable, pale, chalk-like mesa. Quite suddenly, to our left and below a beautiful sight unfolds...field after field of glorious lush green, the vineyards and orchards of Palisade. The contrast is fascinating.
We’ve arrived.
Jun 12th, 2016, 05:20 PM
#3
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Interested in hearing your impressions of our "wine country." Last summer, we did a long weekend circle of Glenwood, Paonia, Crested Butte. Stopped in a couple of wineries in Paonia & the Black Canyon if the Gunnison. Planning on a couple of long weekends this summer & looking for ideas.
Jun 15th, 2016, 01:28 PM
#4
This is our first visit to the area, so we follow the lead of our friends. We’re now at an elevation of 4,725 feet, the lowest we ever remember being in Colorado. All we know about Palisade is that its Colorado’s fruit basket and home to those fabulous Palisade peaches; unfortunately, they’re not yet in season.
Over the course of the afternoon, which just gets hotter and hotter, we visit numerous establishments, imbibing in wine, spirits, cider and fudge. Which begs the question, what is it about CO tourist areas and fudge? Not that I’m complaining mind you.
Our stops:
Grande River - we like their Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc
St. Kathryn/Talon – we’re pleasantly surprised by a tart cherry wine at St. Kathryn, but Talon gets four thumbs down.
Peach Ave Distillers - spirit tasting is lost on me as I can't drink the stuff straight, but our bourbon-drinking friend enthusiastically approves of their bourbon
Red Fox - having received a bottle of their Bourbon Barrel Merlot last fall from the same friends we’re now following around Palisade, Red Fox is at the top of our must visit list. I’m not usually a merlot drinker, but this one single-handedly convinced me to give Colorado wine another chance. While there, we share a cider tasting tray, interesting and unusual (in a good way).
Greyson - another special request of ours, as we truly miss Australian fortified wine; it doesn't disappoint
Carlson - (home to Tyrannosaurus Red - which we rather enjoy - and Laughing Cat, gotta love the names)
A third couple joins us, friends of our friends. It’s late afternoon, a blazing 91 degrees, we’re thoroughly wined out. Our three vehicle convoy makes its way to Grand Junction, where we’re booked for two nights at the Grand Vista Hotel.
http://www.grandvistahotel.com/
I’m a bit wary. The parking lot is filled with pick-up trucks, tailgates down, groups of men drinking beer from coolers. Hmmmmm. Check in is slow, the lobby very busy. Our room is large and comfortable, but our neighbors have their door wide open, several jovial men inside drinking beer. I suspect we’re in for a long night.
The six of us head to Mi Mexico for a totally underwhelming meal; perfectly edible, but instantly forgettable.
A surprisingly quiet night and an unsurprisingly mediocre hotel buffet breakfast later, the golfers play nine holes at Tiara Rado Golf Course. I tag along. Wow, what a setting! The golf course is bordered by the Colorado National Monument, which is spectacular. I take a long walk in the immediate area and snap a gazillion photographs. The monument will have to wait for another visit at a cooler time of year.
http://www.golfgrandjunction.net/course_tr/
https://www.nps.gov/colm/index.htm
The sweaty golfers join me for a drink in the club house; it’s perfect gin and tonic weather, 93 degrees; I so could not live here.
Nearby Two Rivers Winery and Chateau beckons; we have a fine old time chatting up owner Bob, soak up the air con and buy some of their lovely wine, liking every single one we try. Winner, best winery of the trip.
http://www.tworiverswinery.com/
We seek out sustenance...in the form of toffee ice cream at Enstrom’s, whose products we’ve gobbled up for years from afar. They make the best toffee, they truly do.
http://www.enstrom.com/
The day has disappeared. We join yet another couple for dinner that evening at The Alehouse; lively company, adequate food, sketchy service.
http://www.alehousegj.com/
Impressions:
Palisade was quite a surprise - especially the lush green of the valley, the blooming cacti and the roses!
Seven years in Australia and many trips to NZ have spoiled us – we’d pretty much poo-poo’d Colorado wine – but we were both pleasantly surprised at some of the wine on offer. Next time – yes there will be a next time – we’ll visit at a cooler time of year and stay right in Palisade. Perhaps explore the wineries by bike.
We weren’t enamored with Grand Junction in general, nor did we expect to be, but we would definitely like to spend some time at the Colorado National Monument, also at a cooler time of year. The Western Slope is just too hot for us in the summer months.
Palisade and Grand Junction photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...h/26974397034/
Over the course of the afternoon, which just gets hotter and hotter, we visit numerous establishments, imbibing in wine, spirits, cider and fudge. Which begs the question, what is it about CO tourist areas and fudge? Not that I’m complaining mind you.
Our stops:
Grande River - we like their Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc
St. Kathryn/Talon – we’re pleasantly surprised by a tart cherry wine at St. Kathryn, but Talon gets four thumbs down.
Peach Ave Distillers - spirit tasting is lost on me as I can't drink the stuff straight, but our bourbon-drinking friend enthusiastically approves of their bourbon
Red Fox - having received a bottle of their Bourbon Barrel Merlot last fall from the same friends we’re now following around Palisade, Red Fox is at the top of our must visit list. I’m not usually a merlot drinker, but this one single-handedly convinced me to give Colorado wine another chance. While there, we share a cider tasting tray, interesting and unusual (in a good way).
Greyson - another special request of ours, as we truly miss Australian fortified wine; it doesn't disappoint
Carlson - (home to Tyrannosaurus Red - which we rather enjoy - and Laughing Cat, gotta love the names)
A third couple joins us, friends of our friends. It’s late afternoon, a blazing 91 degrees, we’re thoroughly wined out. Our three vehicle convoy makes its way to Grand Junction, where we’re booked for two nights at the Grand Vista Hotel.
http://www.grandvistahotel.com/
I’m a bit wary. The parking lot is filled with pick-up trucks, tailgates down, groups of men drinking beer from coolers. Hmmmmm. Check in is slow, the lobby very busy. Our room is large and comfortable, but our neighbors have their door wide open, several jovial men inside drinking beer. I suspect we’re in for a long night.
The six of us head to Mi Mexico for a totally underwhelming meal; perfectly edible, but instantly forgettable.
A surprisingly quiet night and an unsurprisingly mediocre hotel buffet breakfast later, the golfers play nine holes at Tiara Rado Golf Course. I tag along. Wow, what a setting! The golf course is bordered by the Colorado National Monument, which is spectacular. I take a long walk in the immediate area and snap a gazillion photographs. The monument will have to wait for another visit at a cooler time of year.
http://www.golfgrandjunction.net/course_tr/
https://www.nps.gov/colm/index.htm
The sweaty golfers join me for a drink in the club house; it’s perfect gin and tonic weather, 93 degrees; I so could not live here.
Nearby Two Rivers Winery and Chateau beckons; we have a fine old time chatting up owner Bob, soak up the air con and buy some of their lovely wine, liking every single one we try. Winner, best winery of the trip.
http://www.tworiverswinery.com/
We seek out sustenance...in the form of toffee ice cream at Enstrom’s, whose products we’ve gobbled up for years from afar. They make the best toffee, they truly do.
http://www.enstrom.com/
The day has disappeared. We join yet another couple for dinner that evening at The Alehouse; lively company, adequate food, sketchy service.
http://www.alehousegj.com/
Impressions:
Palisade was quite a surprise - especially the lush green of the valley, the blooming cacti and the roses!
Seven years in Australia and many trips to NZ have spoiled us – we’d pretty much poo-poo’d Colorado wine – but we were both pleasantly surprised at some of the wine on offer. Next time – yes there will be a next time – we’ll visit at a cooler time of year and stay right in Palisade. Perhaps explore the wineries by bike.
We weren’t enamored with Grand Junction in general, nor did we expect to be, but we would definitely like to spend some time at the Colorado National Monument, also at a cooler time of year. The Western Slope is just too hot for us in the summer months.
Palisade and Grand Junction photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...h/26974397034/
Jul 6th, 2016, 01:55 PM
#10
We part company with our companions and tour guides and return to Palisade, where we wander curiously named country roads - 35 ½ Road, F Road, 26 ¾ Road. I’m hankering for a few photos.
It’s another beautiful but hot day - something in bloom is wreaking serious havoc on my nose and eyes. The roses are lovely and remind us of Western Australia. No flies though, thank god.
It’s 11 am, 86 degrees as we work our way towards Delta on Hwy 50, surrounded by brown, crunchy, scrubby landscape, the snow-covered San Juan Mountains beckoning in the very far distance. We pass signs advising us not to pick up hitchhikers; we’re near yet another correctional facility.
We wind through the long main street of small town Delta, The Delta Dab and Doobie bringing a laugh. Memories of high school flood back as we pass a Der Weinerschnitzel, in a gas station, no less.
https://www.facebook.com/people/Delt...00012139775098
It gets prettier and prettier as we approach Montrose, the mountains grow closer. We eyeball each other as the temperature climbs to 91 degrees; surely it will get cooler as we gain altitude? Please-oh-please?
We begin the pretty drive between Montrose and Ridgway, the landscape vibrant green, snow-covered mountains directly ahead, the very full Uncompahgre River running alongside. The difference in scenery since we left Grand Junction only 90 minutes earlier is astounding; we much prefer our mesas with copious amounts of green. We anxiously eye the car temperature gauge, spirits rising as the numbers drop, one by one.
We motor through Ridgway, now at 6,985 feet, and begin one of my favorite stretches of road, the ten miles between Ridgway and Ouray. I so love this drive, it’s just beautiful. There’s been an accident involving a motorcycle, every cop within a 30 mile radius seems to be on site.
The temperature has dropped to 76 degrees and its spitting rain as we roll into town, back in our comfort zone at an elevation of 7,792 feet.
Ouray, a.k.a, “The Switzerland of America”, is one of Colorado’s historic former mining towns. It’s located in a hole surrounded by the majestic San Juan Mountains and separated from Silverton and Durango by the Million Dollar Highway, yet another engineering marvel.
http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-...ghway-usa.html
http://www.ouraycolorado.com/
We locate our favorite Ouray lodging, the Box Canyon Lodge, and check in.
https://www.boxcanyonouray.com/
We’re not strangers to Ouray, although we much prefer visiting in the cooler months, which are more conducive to soaking in Ouray’s sulfur-free hot springs. This time we’re here to satisfy Bill’s craving for Ouray Brewery’s barbecue and beer, which we discovered during our three night stay here last month, and to hopefully do a bit of hiking, assuming the heat doesn’t convince us otherwise.
Within minutes of checking in, we’re hoofing it up one of Ouray’s many hills to the brewery where we settle in on the very hot rooftop balcony with a beer, a Crabby Ol’ Granny cider and a shared plate of pulled pork. Finally, some good food!
http://ouraybrewery.com/
We cross the street to share a dish of ice cream at Moose’s and watch the tourists wander by. Not content to just relax, we foolishly decide to walk up to Cascade Falls, forgetting that the worst bit of this short trek is getting to the trailhead on foot from town, via very steep 8th Ave – okay on a cool day, but not much fun today; the sun is brutal and of course we’ve left our hats in the car. The falls are gorgeous and rambunctiously full, making the jaunt almost worth the effort.
It’s too hot for a soak in the Box Canyon Lodge’s hot pools – for me anyway - and I’m cranky after a day of drowning in snot from the mystery plant that is tormenting me, so we stay in for the night and chill in our hotel.
It’s another beautiful but hot day - something in bloom is wreaking serious havoc on my nose and eyes. The roses are lovely and remind us of Western Australia. No flies though, thank god.
It’s 11 am, 86 degrees as we work our way towards Delta on Hwy 50, surrounded by brown, crunchy, scrubby landscape, the snow-covered San Juan Mountains beckoning in the very far distance. We pass signs advising us not to pick up hitchhikers; we’re near yet another correctional facility.
We wind through the long main street of small town Delta, The Delta Dab and Doobie bringing a laugh. Memories of high school flood back as we pass a Der Weinerschnitzel, in a gas station, no less.
https://www.facebook.com/people/Delt...00012139775098
It gets prettier and prettier as we approach Montrose, the mountains grow closer. We eyeball each other as the temperature climbs to 91 degrees; surely it will get cooler as we gain altitude? Please-oh-please?
We begin the pretty drive between Montrose and Ridgway, the landscape vibrant green, snow-covered mountains directly ahead, the very full Uncompahgre River running alongside. The difference in scenery since we left Grand Junction only 90 minutes earlier is astounding; we much prefer our mesas with copious amounts of green. We anxiously eye the car temperature gauge, spirits rising as the numbers drop, one by one.
We motor through Ridgway, now at 6,985 feet, and begin one of my favorite stretches of road, the ten miles between Ridgway and Ouray. I so love this drive, it’s just beautiful. There’s been an accident involving a motorcycle, every cop within a 30 mile radius seems to be on site.
The temperature has dropped to 76 degrees and its spitting rain as we roll into town, back in our comfort zone at an elevation of 7,792 feet.
Ouray, a.k.a, “The Switzerland of America”, is one of Colorado’s historic former mining towns. It’s located in a hole surrounded by the majestic San Juan Mountains and separated from Silverton and Durango by the Million Dollar Highway, yet another engineering marvel.
http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-...ghway-usa.html
http://www.ouraycolorado.com/
We locate our favorite Ouray lodging, the Box Canyon Lodge, and check in.
https://www.boxcanyonouray.com/
We’re not strangers to Ouray, although we much prefer visiting in the cooler months, which are more conducive to soaking in Ouray’s sulfur-free hot springs. This time we’re here to satisfy Bill’s craving for Ouray Brewery’s barbecue and beer, which we discovered during our three night stay here last month, and to hopefully do a bit of hiking, assuming the heat doesn’t convince us otherwise.
Within minutes of checking in, we’re hoofing it up one of Ouray’s many hills to the brewery where we settle in on the very hot rooftop balcony with a beer, a Crabby Ol’ Granny cider and a shared plate of pulled pork. Finally, some good food!
http://ouraybrewery.com/
We cross the street to share a dish of ice cream at Moose’s and watch the tourists wander by. Not content to just relax, we foolishly decide to walk up to Cascade Falls, forgetting that the worst bit of this short trek is getting to the trailhead on foot from town, via very steep 8th Ave – okay on a cool day, but not much fun today; the sun is brutal and of course we’ve left our hats in the car. The falls are gorgeous and rambunctiously full, making the jaunt almost worth the effort.
It’s too hot for a soak in the Box Canyon Lodge’s hot pools – for me anyway - and I’m cranky after a day of drowning in snot from the mystery plant that is tormenting me, so we stay in for the night and chill in our hotel.
Jul 6th, 2016, 03:46 PM
#11
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"the ten miles between Ridgway and Ouray". . .we, too, love that drive. Really enjoying your TR, Mel! Re-living many of our past trips. We have to get back to that area! Love the drive between Ouray and Silverton, although we've heard others who are spooked by the road.
Jul 9th, 2016, 09:32 AM
#13
We’re up and out the door by 6 am walking the Perimeter Trail, reason #2 for coming back to Ouray. It’s a lovely trek, the views glorious, all the more so because of the early hour, my favorite time of day to walk. My nose is still leaking; the day has grown quite warm by the time we get back to the hotel at 8:30, we’re glad we got an early start.
http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails...eter-trail.htm
Photos from Ouray here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57669585182905
We shower, pack up and leave Ouray by 9:45, heading to our favorite Ridgeway dining establishment, Kate’s Place, for an excellent down home breakfast, reason #3 for our return to the area.
http://katesplaceridgway.com/
On the road again by 10:30 am, we backtrack to a very green Montrose, the temperature climbing to 87 degrees. We make a quick stop for allergy medicine, and then work our way to Gunnison via Highway 50 and alongside shimmering Blue Mesa Reservoir , Colorado’s largest, with 96 miles of shoreline; fishing nirvana.
http://www.thebluemesa.com/
The drive to Gunnison is painfully slow as we trail behind massive crawling trailers and semis. The air is thick with floating white fuzz...the source of my itchy eyes and nose-dripping misery perhaps?
We take a break at tiny Anejo Bistro on South Main Street in downtown Gunnison, where we sip incredibly potent college town margaritas and Bill tucks into a rather bizarre cheese concoction. We later ask what they put into their non-margarita tasting margaritas, and are surprised to learn they use Gran Gala, sweet and sour mix, grapefruit (!) and a mysterious “Mexican drink”. Huh. I think I’ll stick with my homemade lime, simple syrup and anejo tequila thanks.
I’ve always liked Gunnison, but having been away from my home state (and country) for many years I’d forgotten just how close it is to Crested Butte (about 30 miles). I’m suddenly filled with envy for those fortunate enough to live so close to so many of Colorado’s beautiful bits (not that I’m particularly deprived).
We come to a complete stop on State Highway 135 – roadwork - so we while away the time singing with Gordon Lightfoot, counting out-of-state license plates – TX, MT, TX, TX, TX, NY, and watching the antics of a large fox in a nearby field. Man, it’s pretty through here.
We eventually roll into the town of Crested Butte, Colorado’s Wildflower Capital and ‘the last great Colorado ski town’.
http://www.visitcrestedbutte.com/
http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails...eter-trail.htm
Photos from Ouray here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57669585182905
We shower, pack up and leave Ouray by 9:45, heading to our favorite Ridgeway dining establishment, Kate’s Place, for an excellent down home breakfast, reason #3 for our return to the area.
http://katesplaceridgway.com/
On the road again by 10:30 am, we backtrack to a very green Montrose, the temperature climbing to 87 degrees. We make a quick stop for allergy medicine, and then work our way to Gunnison via Highway 50 and alongside shimmering Blue Mesa Reservoir , Colorado’s largest, with 96 miles of shoreline; fishing nirvana.
http://www.thebluemesa.com/
The drive to Gunnison is painfully slow as we trail behind massive crawling trailers and semis. The air is thick with floating white fuzz...the source of my itchy eyes and nose-dripping misery perhaps?
We take a break at tiny Anejo Bistro on South Main Street in downtown Gunnison, where we sip incredibly potent college town margaritas and Bill tucks into a rather bizarre cheese concoction. We later ask what they put into their non-margarita tasting margaritas, and are surprised to learn they use Gran Gala, sweet and sour mix, grapefruit (!) and a mysterious “Mexican drink”. Huh. I think I’ll stick with my homemade lime, simple syrup and anejo tequila thanks.
I’ve always liked Gunnison, but having been away from my home state (and country) for many years I’d forgotten just how close it is to Crested Butte (about 30 miles). I’m suddenly filled with envy for those fortunate enough to live so close to so many of Colorado’s beautiful bits (not that I’m particularly deprived).
We come to a complete stop on State Highway 135 – roadwork - so we while away the time singing with Gordon Lightfoot, counting out-of-state license plates – TX, MT, TX, TX, TX, NY, and watching the antics of a large fox in a nearby field. Man, it’s pretty through here.
We eventually roll into the town of Crested Butte, Colorado’s Wildflower Capital and ‘the last great Colorado ski town’.
http://www.visitcrestedbutte.com/
Jul 9th, 2016, 10:15 AM
#14
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Nice trip report! I'm looking forward to your next installment. My husband and I want to take a mountain trip next month. We were talking last night and he asked me where I wanted to go. I replied Ouray and he countered with Crested Butte. We've been to both and can't go wrong either way, but making the actual decision is the tough part.
Jul 9th, 2016, 11:58 AM
#16
Mount Crested Butte, the town’s namesake, looms above at 12,162 feet, dominating the landscape. The views are absolutely gorgeous here amongst the Elk Mountains.
We easily locate our lodging, Purple Mountain B&B.
http://www.purplemountainlodge.com/
The bed and breakfast is located in a residential area right on the edge of town, strolling distance to just about any place one might want to eat, drink or shop. The adjacent homes are in close proximity. We learn later that we need to keep our window open all night to stay cool, but neighborhood noise is a non-issue after about 10 pm. We’re in the Paradise Divide room, which is small, comfortable, and equipped with a fabulous shower. Creaky character is plentiful.
I settle in for an allergy medication/strong margarita/road trip induced nap.
Later we partake in the complimentary micro brew tasting offered each day at 5 pm, where we meet our host Chris and the other guests, chat, and learn about the area.
The B&B is dog friendly and, as we soon discover, Chris is quite the cook. His sumptuous breakfast turns out to be worth the visit alone.
For lack of a better description, Purple Mountain B&B is very Crested Butte.
We’re surprised by the assortment of eateries and shops in this town of 1,500 and the minute we hear those sweet words "Indian food”, we decide to give The Ginger Café a go for our 34th anniversary dinner.
http://thegingercafe.com
Perhaps our hopes are too high, but we’re seriously underwhelmed. Think Colorado ski town meets British take away, embellished with frou-frou drinks. The food is disappointing; the service spastic; our waitress can’t seem to get anything right.
The emphasis seems to be on trendiness rather than on producing good food. We console ourselves with their ginger martinis, a highlight, and call it good.
On the way back to the B&B we stop and watch a local softball game, loving the small town laid back vibe. The main form of transport in Crested Butte is townie bike.
I feel like I’ve stepped into a modern version of Mayberry. And I like it.
We easily locate our lodging, Purple Mountain B&B.
http://www.purplemountainlodge.com/
The bed and breakfast is located in a residential area right on the edge of town, strolling distance to just about any place one might want to eat, drink or shop. The adjacent homes are in close proximity. We learn later that we need to keep our window open all night to stay cool, but neighborhood noise is a non-issue after about 10 pm. We’re in the Paradise Divide room, which is small, comfortable, and equipped with a fabulous shower. Creaky character is plentiful.
I settle in for an allergy medication/strong margarita/road trip induced nap.
Later we partake in the complimentary micro brew tasting offered each day at 5 pm, where we meet our host Chris and the other guests, chat, and learn about the area.
The B&B is dog friendly and, as we soon discover, Chris is quite the cook. His sumptuous breakfast turns out to be worth the visit alone.
For lack of a better description, Purple Mountain B&B is very Crested Butte.
We’re surprised by the assortment of eateries and shops in this town of 1,500 and the minute we hear those sweet words "Indian food”, we decide to give The Ginger Café a go for our 34th anniversary dinner.
http://thegingercafe.com
Perhaps our hopes are too high, but we’re seriously underwhelmed. Think Colorado ski town meets British take away, embellished with frou-frou drinks. The food is disappointing; the service spastic; our waitress can’t seem to get anything right.
The emphasis seems to be on trendiness rather than on producing good food. We console ourselves with their ginger martinis, a highlight, and call it good.
On the way back to the B&B we stop and watch a local softball game, loving the small town laid back vibe. The main form of transport in Crested Butte is townie bike.
I feel like I’ve stepped into a modern version of Mayberry. And I like it.
Jul 11th, 2016, 06:33 PM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Melnq8, still following along. Loved your pix of Ouray! Next time we're around Ridgeway, we'll have to try Kate's Place. From Ridgeway, we usually go across the Dallas Divide and on to Telluride. There's a nice little bakery that we usually hit on the way.
BTW, Belated "Happy 34th Anniversary"!
BTW, Belated "Happy 34th Anniversary"!
Sep 29th, 2016, 09:13 AM
#19
Well, true to form, I lost my trip report writing mojo mid-stream, but will try to finish up...
The morning brings a wonderful community breakfast prepared by Chris, clad in his chef whites. He serves up some lovely organic hazelnut waffles. I could get used to this.
With breakfast comes the news that Kebler Pass is open. When planning this trip we’d hoped to drive Kebler Pass from Paonia to Crested Butte – the direct route - thus eliminating the need to drive through Gunnison twice. But, we’d read that Kebler was closed indefinitely due to road damage.
So, this is a nice surprise. We set out in the delicious 55 degree morning to explore Kebler Pass (Colorado 133), home to one of the largest aspen groves in the United States, growing from a single living organism, no doubt a sight to behold when the aspens change color in the autumn.
As we work our way up the pass we notice abandoned snowmobiles willy-nilly alongside the road, uncovered and baking in the sun, some of them hanging precariously over ledges; weird. As former snowmobile owners we can’t imagine neglecting them like this. We ask Chris about it later and he speculates that they might be owned by locals who can only access their property via snowmobile in the winter months. The mystery grows deeper after a Google search turns up this:
http://www.chriskopf.com/crested-but...ass-road-trip/
https://www.wildsnow.com/1852/snowmobile-trash-colorad/
It’s early June, so we’re not surprised to see a bit of snow here and there; the views however, are a surprise, even to us jaded Coloradoans; spectacular.
We detour to Lost Lake Campground, but the barrier is down, the deep snow suggests it’s too early in the season. We forge on, surrounded by an astonishing number of aspens and wildflowers one minute, shrubs and meadows thick with a bizarre unrecognizable plant the next.
Some 16 miles later, we enter the town of Paonia, population ~1,500. With high hopes we settle in for lunch at The Living Farm Café.
We lounge on the shady porch and wait an eternity for our meal to arrive. Bill likes his lamb enchiladas well enough, but my smoked chicken sandwich is akin to shoe leather, the accompanying fries soggy - a disappointing $37 lunch.
The car tells us it 97 degrees as we depart Paonia and backtrack to Crested Butte. We drive through town, amazed at the sheer number of dandelions, and continue up to Mt. Crested Butte.
Note: What I didn’t realize until I began my search for accommodation is that Crested Butte consists of two separate towns – the historic mining town of Crested Butte which dates back to the 1800’s, and the newer town of Mt Crested Butte, located at the base of the ski area nestled amongst the Elk Mountains. These two towns are connected by a free shuttle. We were interested in the original town of Crested Butte, so we chose our lodging accordingly.
We’re a bit taken aback at the town of Mt Crested Butte, which is home to some 800 residents and a surprising number of condos, resorts and spas. It instantly reminds me of the stark contrast between the town of Telluride and Mountain Village.
Mt Crested Butte and the little town below with its historic buildings, quaint shops and Mayberry feel, are rather incongruous.
We work our way along the beautiful Gothic Road, and embark on the rocky hike to Judd Falls (~2.5 miles return), rewarded with some lovely views.
After the 5 pm beer tasting with host Chris and the other B&B guests, we wander into town for dinner, ending up at Secret Stash, where we tuck into a Hey Zeus Greek pizza - tasty, other than the chicken which added no value - our third meal in as many days with overcooked, chewy chicken - what is it with the Western Slope and rangy chicken?
----------------------
It was time to leave. We’d enjoyed Crested Butte’s mellow small town vibe. As with most ski towns, we found the value for money a bit lacking, but certainly not on the scale of Aspen or Telluride.
After another fabulous breakfast we bid adieu to Chef Chris and the Purple Mountain B&B. We potter along Highway 135, soaking up those beautiful riverside views as we approach Gunnison.
We turn onto Highway 50 and curl our way over 11,312 foot Monarch Pass, with its smattering of leftover snow. At Poncha Springs we join 285 and inch our way to Buena Vista, stopping at Big Bend Recreation area alongside the high and fast flowing Arkansas River at the cleanest long drop in the state of Colorado.
We forge on, the snow-covered Colligates to our left, river rafters to our right. We peel off at Highway 24, the road wonderfully devoid of traffic, 68 degrees and a light rain falling as we cruise through Hartsel.
Unwilling to pass up the opportunity to visit the newly re-opened Wilkerson Pass Visitor’s Center, we stop for a quick look-see and a glimpse at the valley we’d just driven through.
Three and a half hours after leaving Crested Butte, we arrive in Divide, and succumbing to temptation, we call into our favorite local eatery, McGinty’s, for our favorite garlic, potato, bacon and rosemary pizza.
It’s a glorious 73 degrees as we arrive back in the City Above the Clouds.
Photos from Crested Butte here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57666940786354
The morning brings a wonderful community breakfast prepared by Chris, clad in his chef whites. He serves up some lovely organic hazelnut waffles. I could get used to this.
With breakfast comes the news that Kebler Pass is open. When planning this trip we’d hoped to drive Kebler Pass from Paonia to Crested Butte – the direct route - thus eliminating the need to drive through Gunnison twice. But, we’d read that Kebler was closed indefinitely due to road damage.
So, this is a nice surprise. We set out in the delicious 55 degree morning to explore Kebler Pass (Colorado 133), home to one of the largest aspen groves in the United States, growing from a single living organism, no doubt a sight to behold when the aspens change color in the autumn.
As we work our way up the pass we notice abandoned snowmobiles willy-nilly alongside the road, uncovered and baking in the sun, some of them hanging precariously over ledges; weird. As former snowmobile owners we can’t imagine neglecting them like this. We ask Chris about it later and he speculates that they might be owned by locals who can only access their property via snowmobile in the winter months. The mystery grows deeper after a Google search turns up this:
http://www.chriskopf.com/crested-but...ass-road-trip/
https://www.wildsnow.com/1852/snowmobile-trash-colorad/
It’s early June, so we’re not surprised to see a bit of snow here and there; the views however, are a surprise, even to us jaded Coloradoans; spectacular.
We detour to Lost Lake Campground, but the barrier is down, the deep snow suggests it’s too early in the season. We forge on, surrounded by an astonishing number of aspens and wildflowers one minute, shrubs and meadows thick with a bizarre unrecognizable plant the next.
Some 16 miles later, we enter the town of Paonia, population ~1,500. With high hopes we settle in for lunch at The Living Farm Café.
We lounge on the shady porch and wait an eternity for our meal to arrive. Bill likes his lamb enchiladas well enough, but my smoked chicken sandwich is akin to shoe leather, the accompanying fries soggy - a disappointing $37 lunch.
The car tells us it 97 degrees as we depart Paonia and backtrack to Crested Butte. We drive through town, amazed at the sheer number of dandelions, and continue up to Mt. Crested Butte.
Note: What I didn’t realize until I began my search for accommodation is that Crested Butte consists of two separate towns – the historic mining town of Crested Butte which dates back to the 1800’s, and the newer town of Mt Crested Butte, located at the base of the ski area nestled amongst the Elk Mountains. These two towns are connected by a free shuttle. We were interested in the original town of Crested Butte, so we chose our lodging accordingly.
We’re a bit taken aback at the town of Mt Crested Butte, which is home to some 800 residents and a surprising number of condos, resorts and spas. It instantly reminds me of the stark contrast between the town of Telluride and Mountain Village.
Mt Crested Butte and the little town below with its historic buildings, quaint shops and Mayberry feel, are rather incongruous.
We work our way along the beautiful Gothic Road, and embark on the rocky hike to Judd Falls (~2.5 miles return), rewarded with some lovely views.
After the 5 pm beer tasting with host Chris and the other B&B guests, we wander into town for dinner, ending up at Secret Stash, where we tuck into a Hey Zeus Greek pizza - tasty, other than the chicken which added no value - our third meal in as many days with overcooked, chewy chicken - what is it with the Western Slope and rangy chicken?
----------------------
It was time to leave. We’d enjoyed Crested Butte’s mellow small town vibe. As with most ski towns, we found the value for money a bit lacking, but certainly not on the scale of Aspen or Telluride.
After another fabulous breakfast we bid adieu to Chef Chris and the Purple Mountain B&B. We potter along Highway 135, soaking up those beautiful riverside views as we approach Gunnison.
We turn onto Highway 50 and curl our way over 11,312 foot Monarch Pass, with its smattering of leftover snow. At Poncha Springs we join 285 and inch our way to Buena Vista, stopping at Big Bend Recreation area alongside the high and fast flowing Arkansas River at the cleanest long drop in the state of Colorado.
We forge on, the snow-covered Colligates to our left, river rafters to our right. We peel off at Highway 24, the road wonderfully devoid of traffic, 68 degrees and a light rain falling as we cruise through Hartsel.
Unwilling to pass up the opportunity to visit the newly re-opened Wilkerson Pass Visitor’s Center, we stop for a quick look-see and a glimpse at the valley we’d just driven through.
Three and a half hours after leaving Crested Butte, we arrive in Divide, and succumbing to temptation, we call into our favorite local eatery, McGinty’s, for our favorite garlic, potato, bacon and rosemary pizza.
It’s a glorious 73 degrees as we arrive back in the City Above the Clouds.
Photos from Crested Butte here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57666940786354
Sep 30th, 2016, 06:19 AM
#20
Join Date: Mar 2003
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I'm glad to hear Kebler Pass was open for you. I had no idea about the abandoned snow mobiles, that's awful. We took Kebler Pass this fall into Crested Butte and it was a beautiful drive. I wish we would have picked your B&B as we stayed at The Inn at Crested Butte which was just ok. We used to go to Crested Butte every year with the kids and wow, how it has grown! Mt Crested Butte was a batch of condos and now million-dollar homes with spectacular views.
What did you think of Paonia? We are considering staying at a small farm, Avalanche Cheese Company Goat & Dairy Farm, for a night or two as part of next year's drive.
You are very fortunate to live in such a beautiful area!
What did you think of Paonia? We are considering staying at a small farm, Avalanche Cheese Company Goat & Dairy Farm, for a night or two as part of next year's drive.
You are very fortunate to live in such a beautiful area!
