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SW Scenic Whirl: Zion,Bryce,Capitol Reef,MV,GC,Sedona

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SW Scenic Whirl: Zion,Bryce,Capitol Reef,MV,GC,Sedona

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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 04:37 AM
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SW Scenic Whirl: Zion,Bryce,Capitol Reef,MV,GC,Sedona

What started out as taking advantage of a great 3 night stay/deal in Sedona - suddenly morphed into a last minute/six day - fast moving/scenic/whirlwind tour (certainly not for all travelers) - around the southwest US.

This meant that instead of flying into Phoenix and renting a car, we packed the car here in San Diego on Saturday afternoon - included some camping gear - and bright and early/Oh Dark Thirty Sunday morning - headed from San Diego to Zion National Park in SW Utah - just beyond St. George.

Zion: Since we arrived at around 3 PM - we just went for it and drove to the visitor parking lot (vis a vis parking outside the park and riding the shuttle) and found a spot as people were leaving and we didn't even have to wait to board the bus for the incredible 80 minute roundtrip of the uber scenic canyon. http://tinyurl.com/6qymf44

This "blitz" was rewarded by our meeting a well equipped hiking couple (from New Hampshire) - who boarded at the top of the route. They also had been up before the crack of dawn and had energetically hiked up the Narrows (walking in/along the river part) and even up another canyon/Wall Street. That has always been on my "to do" list - and next time - we will hike/explore Zion in much more depth. http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-narrows.htm

Bryce: From there, we drove on to Bryce - and perhaps the driving "highlight" of my having toured all over the western US happened en route - about 5 miles south of Hatch: We actually saw a big bear!!!!

This blond/brown Bruin was running along the other side of a fence just below/parallel to the road - chasing some tasty morsel - and this big guy was moving!!!!! For short distances - Bears can sprint as fast as a horse.

And while Black bears can come in all colors - and supposedly Brown/Grizzly bears are non-existent in most of the lower 48 states, this sure looked like a 500+ lb Brown bear - and again, it was hauling after something, just galloping along on all fours.

Suddenly - it veered toward the fence and dove down toward the bottom - and I can only guess the rabbit? - got away by zipping under the fence.

Continuing on - we entered Bryce about 7 PM - and after hastily pitching the tent - drove down the 18 mile drive to the end at - Yovimpa and Rainbow Point - and then doubled back to Bryce Point for the Sunset. http://www.gorp.com/parks-guide/bryc...e-cid8844.html

As expected - the Hoodoos http://tinyurl.com/6pvw3a3 were in fine fettle, and there are other great lookouts/photo ops along the way - including the Natural Bridge Arch. http://tinyurl.com/86olhu4 http://www.bryce.canyon.national-park.com/sights.htm

It should be noted that comparing Zion and Bryce National Parks is difficult - as they really are two different types of parks: Zion is big and round and a river running through it - and you start at the bottom and head to the top - whereas in Bryce, the orientation is mostly top down - and you have the fabled hoodoos and other rock formations - yet they are both stunningly beautiful.

Forgot to mention another great wildlife viewing while driving in Bryce - and that was a pack of Antelopes who were just casually munching in the meadows about halfway to Rainbow Point.

For dinner - we broke out the "tent chicken" - a roasted chicken we had picked up in St. George - and it served us well for dinner that night and the next night when we camped at the Navajo National Monument - just west of Kayenta/Monument Valley.

During the night - I walked to the rest rooms - and the view of the stars was as amazing/bright/clear as anything I have seen, including looking up from Glacier Point in Yosemite.

Bright and early the next morning - we again drove down the 16 miles (measured from the North Campground) - for more photo ops and appreciation - again - planning to return for more in-depth exploration on a future trip.

Grand Staircase, Kiva Coffee, Boulder and on to Capital Reef: We then broke camp - had a quick breakfast at Ruby's Inn (where we would have stayed if there was not a campsite available - http://www.rubysinn.com/ ) and then headed north and east - toward Capitol Reef - stopping at the very helpful Inter-Agency tourist office in Escalante http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/grand...or_Center.html.

Not only does this center have a cute little display of native animals/plants (including a Rocky Mountain Ram) - they also gave us a great tip about where to stop for coffee. This was at Kiva - a round/built into the side of the hill/marvelous find - where the coffee was very good and the view was terrific. http://www.kivakoffeehouse.com/

And then it was off for a majestic drive along scenic Hiway/Biway 12 - http://www.scenicbyway12.com/ through the 9,000 foot passes - before heading on to Capital Reef. This part of Utah - including going through the town of Boulder - besides having beautiful Red Rock formations - could almost double as being in Colorado, with Aspen groves, mountain lakes and the like. http://www.lrbryanphotography.com/St...2847&k=vqN9Vqj http://tinyurl.com/7zmdz6q

We were also overlooking the Grand Staircase area - where the hiking couple we met in Zion was excited about going canyon-iring here for the rest of their week. http://tinyurl.com/7mt7wcy

As you may or may not know - this was the last part of the US that was finally mapped - and that was not until about 1860. What - with a part of the road called Hell's Backbone - what do you expect?

Continuing on through Capital Reef - turning east at Torrey - is just an incredible visual smorgasbord/potpourri - of the beautiful Red Rock formations that cover this part of the US. http://tinyurl.com/cjypn9l It was just one after another - nonstop - ongoing great sights and can only be appreciated by driving through this area.

Natural Bridges National Monument - on to Monument Valley: We continued on toward Monument Valley - stopping at the headwaters of Lake Powell for a picnic lunch - and then toured the Natural Bridges National Monument - a bonus along the way. They have a great 10 minute film at the Visitor's center which we watched before driving around. http://www.nps.gov/nabr/index.htm

You do know the difference between a bride and an arch, right? A bridge is formed by running water - a stream/river - continually wearing down the rock/and or cutting a new path through it - while an arch is usually the result of many centuries of erosion, from top down.

We took the shorter route toward Monument Valley - route 261 - going down the Moki Tugway - which is not for the faint of heart. http://tinyurl.com/6nh3rjf It's about a three mile or so gravel road - sharply descending with numerous switchbacks - but we loved it. (Well, I know I loved it - and as my wife was driving during that section - she did manage to catch some of the scenery while adroitly steering the car down the hill. )

After gassing up/topping off in Mexican Hat - we drove into Monument Valley from the north - and because we had just experienced two of the most scenic days one could ever imagine, and additionally because we hav also visited Monument Valley before - we continued on to the Navajo National Monument - as we wanted to set up camp before coming back to Monument Valley for Sunset.

We did stop in Kayenta - and grabbed a soft drink at the Burger King - where they have a very nice/small - yet powerful/moving display of the huge contribution by the Navajo Nation to our Marines during WWII. http://tinyurl.com/6mqteve

This was when the Navajo language was used to form an unbreakable code - which was used to call in supporting artillery during the island campaigns in the South Pacific. There was even a recent movie about this Wind Talkers - with Nicholas Cage among others. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0245562/

The sad thing about their brave exploits is that the Navajos' heroic actions were classified until the 70's (yes - the secret code was apparently that good) - and they couldn't even get jobs with the US government - as they couldn't say anything about what they did in the war, and even their local community didn't fully appreciate their significant contributions did during WWII.

Navajo National Monument: We arrived at the National Navajo Monument - http://www.nps.gov/nava/index.htm and thankfully there was camping space (we had called ahead for info - first come first serve - and again - this was a spur of the moment trip).

We set up the tent - and after enjoying some more of the great roast chicken, etc - this time on a picnic table - we just decided to chill out and didn't drive back to Monument Valley for the Sunset. We had been there before - and loved it - but since we had just covered over 1,000 scenic miles in two days - what can I say - we wimped out But hey - the good thing about now being "senior" citizens is the $10 lifetime pass to National Parks was good every place we visited. dos.

The next morning - I drove back into Kayenta to pick up some coffee (next time will take along a little portable coffee maker) and we broke camp - and since we had also visited the Navajo National Monument before - we headed out early for a "bonus" stop at the Grand Canyon en route to our three day - kickback stay in Sedona.

Grand Canyon: Now what can you say about the Grand Canyon? http://tinyurl.com/7g4pusx Simply put - it should never be missed if one is in the area - as it has something of everything we toured during the previous two days - with perhaps the exception of the numerous hoo-doo spires that you find in Bryce.

We have been to the GC several times before - but it is always just that - GRAND - and this time, thanks to our good 10 power binoculars - we were even able to watch 8 different rafts running through two different sets of rapids. It's truly one of a kind, and one of these trips - will get down on the River for the rafting trip - much more exciting than the half day float trip we once took out of Page - pretty but tame.

Sedona: Continuing on - we drove out the GC via the southern exit - and then south of Flagstaff - along the Oak Creek Canyon http://tinyurl.com/d6lerdg into beautiful Sedona - http://tinyurl.com/6vmsx2l

Now - while we have been in Sedona before - we never had the opportunity to leisurely explore it for three days - interspersed with some chilling out/pool time, but that's another story - with downloaded pics to follow ............................

While in Sedona, I noticed the weather report for Phoenix was to be 112 degrees on Friday, so we left at 6 am to beat the heat - and had a nice drive back to San Diego - via Prescott - arriving mid-afternoon.

OK - can't wait for the next "Road Warrior" trip.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Great report, guys! It sounds like a really fun trip. Love your spontaneity! Did you take route 95 from Cap Reef/Hanksville to Natural Bridges? We're planning our fall trip and expect to be heading from Nat Bridges up 95 to Hanksville and route 12 back to Zion. We've been out this way lots of times but haven't used 95 yet. Any input would be great!
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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Hi Tom,

Thanks for the great quickie trip report. Have you visited Zion and Bryce before? Hopefully next time you can take longer and enjoy some of the hiking/canyoneering!

I smiled at your description of the Boulder Mtn drive. Utah is almost two completely different states between northern and southern. South is all the red rock and north is all the mountains, lake and aspens.

It seems most visitors go tothe Natl Parks, but few who don't ski make it north. Trust me, northern Utah is paradise!

Come back soon!
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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Hi Sharon! Can't wait to hear about your plans for the next visit
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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Nice trip report! Which reminds me, I need to post mine from last week.

Lee Ann
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Old Jun 2nd, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Sharon: Driving 95 south from Hanksville was like being on a freeway - mostly a straight shot and my wife made great time while I caught up on my nap time.

And Dayle: We/I have been all over Northern Utah - mostly skiing - with summer visits to Deer Valley/Park City - I did make it through Arches/Moab on a trip back from Colorado.

Have probably driven by St. George five or more times over the year - usually just bulleting past - and think I might have been to the Zion visitor's center - maaaany years ago - but that was it for the beautiful south/central part of Utah. This better - albeit quick look/tour of Zion - sort of reminded us of Yosemite. Definitely want to spend more time there next time.

As you note - Northern and Southern Utah are like two different "countries", hence the name Dixie National Forest? - for much of Southern Utah. http://www.fs.usda.gov/dixie

And Lee Ann: Get on it girl!!!!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Great report... thanks for sharing!!!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2012, 01:04 PM
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>>And Lee Ann: Get on it girl!!!!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2012, 03:45 PM
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Great report on this fantastic area!! I love Grand Canyon too and try to stop every time we are in the area. Moki Dugway is an E ticket ride, we did it when there was a little snow left on it for an added excitement.

Thanks
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Old Jun 3rd, 2012, 05:36 PM
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tom,

Good to know you enjoy northern Utah too! I just love living in a state with so much variety.

Lee Ann, are you seriously auditioning for Jeopardy? My sister did it many years ago and said the test was really tough. The staffers came in and told the entire group they all failed! She has a warped sense of humor and just laughed out loud! Some of the other potential contestants really gave her some dirty looks (they took themselves way too seriously)!

Good Luck!
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 04:34 AM
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emal: I grew up driving on snow in Oregon - so it wouldn't have been that extra exciting for moi - but it might have made my dear wife (who grew up in the SF Bay Ares) a bit more focused.

And Lee Ann: Good luck to you if you are really trying to get on Jeopardy. Stay determined.

Dayle: Skied all over the Wasatachs - which as you know - are beautiful. http://tinyurl.com/73uo734

We drove over from Lake Tahoe (where we skied the most) - the first time back in '78 was it - and enjoyed a week with over 100 inches of power at Alta and Snowbird, while staying at Alf Engen's hotel - the (High?) Rustler was it?

Later - we skied more at Deer Valley and Park City (where we have a number of friends) - and even one year when I was consulting for a Salt Lake Company - I stayed up at Park City in condos off and on for a couple of years and even had a shared pass at Park West - now called Canyons?

As you also know - Utah gets the best/most consistent powder in the US - outside of Grand Targhee - http://www.grandtarghee.com/ where we also skied once (drove over from Sun Valley where we spent a week) - but Targhee is much smaller and harder to get to, and on average - gets only 50 more inches of power per year than Alta/Snowbird. (500 v. 450). Just love Utah. (And also like Colorado where I went to college).
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Wow that sounds like a great trip! I love Zion's National Park and still need to make plans to go to Bryce's.
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 01:02 PM
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Yes, I am really auditioning for Jeopardy. Sorry to hijack your trip report, tomsd!

Lee Ann
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Thank you for such a great report. I will be going to this area for the first time in Oct, and will be doing a whirl wind tour, seeing as much as I can for my first trip. Your report will certainly help in my planning.
So great that you saw a bear.

LeeAnn, good luck . How exciting !
And since you were in the parks of Utah recently, it looks like I will be following in your footsteps once again.
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 04:53 PM
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Lee Ann: I like what you added to the blog and welcome all such additions, as well as wishing you good luck with getting on Jeopardy.

Kodi - I think I left an email address - and feel free to email me if I can help with anything else.

I say - just go for it. Have a tank full of gas, some extra water and food (we always take a cooler from here - or buy a styrofoam/plastic one if we fly into some place) and blankets along (sleeping bag if you can) - and a flashlight, extra layers of clothes, maps, cell phone, etc - and I also recommend having some pepper spray - and you should be good to go/prepared for almost any breakdowns, sudden snow storms, whatnot.
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 05:10 PM
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Tom,

Always good to hear from fellow Powder Pigs!

I'm amazed that you saw a bear out in the valley by the river. Very unusual!

The Forest Service just trapped and relocated a young (2) black bear in Summit Park. He had been hanging around this higher altitude neighborhood, but not showing any aggression. I'm so thankful they saved him. He's now down around the mountains east of Spanish Fork.

Good luck Lee Ann!
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Great report, Tom! Spontaneous and fun-loving!

Lee Ann: Lots of Luck!
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Old Jun 4th, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Tom thank you for the offer to help . I appreciate it . I don't see your
email address though .
Since I'll be flying to Las Vegas I won't have the extra emergency
items that I would have if I was driving .
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Old Jun 5th, 2012, 04:19 AM
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Thanks easyt. And Kodi - my email address is: [email protected]

My best advice is stop at a big grocery store and buy a few of the necessary items, depending on what kind of trip/driving/distance you are going to cover. It's cheap insurance really.
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Old Jun 5th, 2012, 04:41 AM
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Thanks Tom . I agree. I will be in touch when I finally get around to looking at some maps and getting organized. I've had other projects on the go... and can't wait to start thinking more about this trip.
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