Day 1 - my solo day in SF

This was my first "real" vacation in a long time, so I decided I was going to approach it differently than usual. Two of my best trips have been to Paris and Ireland when I was relaxed enough to let things just HAPPEN. To trust in...serendipity? So, I decided that I would use this plan (or lack of plan) for this trip too.

I do believe in research and knowing what I'd like to do...I just waited to make decisions and to relinquish control as much as possible.

Travel tip #2 - important to me - choose a hotel with internet access

I won't even mention the name of my first hotel in SF. Rates were sky-high for my dates and Friday night was sold out almost everywhere. I tried Priceline. I tried my usual favorites. I decided to trust a tripadvisor review and try a new place with decent reviews.

The problem? They had not adjusted my arrival date and were not expecting me on my arrival date. They had a room for me that night, but no non-smoking rooms for the rest of my stay (although I had the confirmation with the no-smoking quarantee. It was late. I checked in. I was miserable in a smoking room. I was miserable in a noisy room. I was miserable in a room with sporadic internet signal.

I called my favorite - the Kimpton group to see what rates were available at some SF hotels. My favorite was 1/2 the price originally quoted. I called my hotel front desk to make sure I could cancel the rest of my reservation and then booked the new room.

The next morning I called my new hotel to ask when I could check in. They said immediately. I said "NOW?!?!?" The answer was "yes". I didn't even shower. Brushed my teeth, pulled my hair back and called the front desk to ask for a cab.

At 7:30 am I was checking out! To go to ...(drumroll, please)...the Hotel Monaco!

It was hard getting a cab at that time of morning. The front desk guy called twice. The sweet guy finally went out to the street and hailed one himself (it took almost 20 minutes). Settled in with my luggage and was quickly delivered to my nirvana.

Travel tip #3 - just book the Monaco

I cannot express how wonderful it was to arrive at my blissful hotel! "Hello, Miss Starrs". "What can we do for you, Miss Starrs?" "Would you like a goldfish delivered to the room, Miss Starrs?".

Gorgeous room. Wonderful amentities - tv, cd player, etc. L'Occitane Verbena toiletries. Yes! This is a sign all is right in my world. The first time I discovered L'Occitane's verbana scents was at the Four Seasons Hualalai on the Big Island. Long soak in a deep tub getting rid of all the crud from the smoking room. Leopard print room waiting in the closet. Perfect internet access for checking email and travel info. Movies available that you can start and finish later. Ahhhh!!! I just took some time to enjoy it all.

When I stirred again it was to dine at the Grand Cafe. The theme of this trip was to "do something different". So, instead of my usual breakfast items I ordered their omelet.

Ahhhh, the Omelette aux Champignnons et Epinards! Pure bliss!
The description was "mushroom, spinach, & gruyere cheese omelette, smoked pepper and scallion potato cake". Sounds good. The omelette was amazing (that word was chosen on purpose). The different mushrooms in the omelette were exquisite. The cheese was incredible. I'm not sure what the fruit preserve served was exactly, but it was divine. All is right in my little travel world

I got my first hint of my hotel booking problems. My neighbor was a man in scrubs. He joined to greet others at another table (his salmon dish looked wonderful). It turns out that 33,000 orthopedic medical professionals were in town. Oh, well. Someone (or lots of someones) must have cancelled their reservations because I'm back in the Monaco for 1/2 what they quoted before I left home.

Travel opinion - Splurge a little in the cities and make up the difference in other locations. The Monaco made the trip soooo much better!

Great report, Starrs. I'm looking forward to the rest.
I also love the L'O verbena. Even DS commented that he liked the smell of the shampoo when he tried it at the FS. Luckily we have an L'O outlet nearby.

I used the internet to finalize how I would spend the day. I had grabbed a city booklet as I left the other hotel and noticed an ad for a walking and tasting tour of SF.

Now, I LOVE the www.foodsofny.com tours and have recommended them many times on this board. There were some "stamps of approval" on the ad. I trusted them. Big mistake. The tour was awful. I would blame it on the guide and caution others but I think he is the only guide. We spent 45 minutes at the first stop - a coffee shop. He talked on his cell phone. He disappeared for a while. He returned to talk about roasting and grinding coffee beans. The folks on the tour started giving one another "uh-oh" looks.

We averaged 1 stop per 1/2 hour. The tour was PAINFULLY slow. The guide was painfully unprepared. I can only guess that friends had been associated with the stamps of approval. One cute couple was starting their trip with this tour and the young man wondered aloud what he had gotten himself into. We did see a couple of neat things - a brick oven in a bakery you would not ordinarily see. But, very little food and late in the tour. The "last straw" was his taking us in a church as a funeral was ending. He had just a few lame comments to make (as they were removing the flowers in front) and then...walked away to talk on his cell phone! In a church! With family members still milling outside. We ALL were aghast. I'm not sure if he read the body language or not. Then, he reconvened us... on the steps headed outside...but still IN the church building...and will a BIG smile and a chipper voice started with "ANOTHER FUN TIME TO COME TO THE CITY IS DURING THE XYZ PARADE...". Starrs had had enough. I interrupted and asked if we could go OUTSIDE the church before he talked about wild and crazy parade participants. The man was clueless. It was a waste of a lot of money and the afternoon. Everyone expected that based on the price and the ad that we would be full from the tour. Not. It was a very, very bad tour.

Travel tip #4 - take another tour
maybe one of these - san francisco city walk

Travel tip #5 - Buy 1/2 price tickets for a show from the Union Square kiosk

http://www.theatrebayarea.org/tix/tix_booth.jsp

During my long soak in the tub, I perused the Living/Entertainment sections of the paper to get ideas. I got all excited at all the play options in one section...and then realized it was from the New York Times. I got up, dripping water all over the room to get the SF paper. With a bit of disappointment I settled back in my verbena soak, and then found... Cybill Shepherd! She was closing a preview show that weekend. My wonderful internet access confirmed that tickets were available at the 1/2 price booth so, the evening's plans were made!

Now, Cybill Shepherd is just inches away from being my BFF. The only problem is...she's just not met me yet. But, IF she DID, I am SURE we would bond immediately. I've liked her since her cover girl days, through the Last Picture Show and Moonlighting and The Yellow Rose of Texas, etc, etc, etc.

Front row center. Half price. One woman show. Pretty good show (I hope it's tweaked before it opens at home in a few months). Mere feet away from my BFF who doesn't know it yet. It was a very nice evening.

The show ended fairly early because there was no intermission - and I was starving because the tour guide didn't feed us...so I stopped at a diner on the way "home". Remember the exquisite breakfast? Well, dinner was a BLT. Okay. Sue me. I like BLTs. And, a soda...with free refills! (current thread topic). Diner food and I like diner food.

I head home to the bliss of the Monaco. Oh! I forgot. I had stopped by earlier in the evening during cocktail hour to grab a glass of wine and have my cards read (tarot). I will be changing jobs soon and will be very successful financially - in case you were wondering. And, when I got back to my room, my goldfish had been delivered. I named her ...(any guesses?)..."Cybill".

Starrs is officially a happy girl. A good first vacation day. The bliss of the Monaco. Slightly scented with verbena. A nice play. Time to unwind with a movie...and more internet time... and try to stay awake. My solo portion of the trip is about to end.

DF's flight arrives. Cab to the Monaco. He is very happy with the accomodations. He is hungry. He wants company at the restaurant. I take him to...the diner! I have a chocolate milkshake. It's vacation. I don't care

DF is here to help his DD plan her wedding. But, I'm not sure how much planning is going to get done because future SIL's movie is premiering this weekend. Actually, a documentary and it opens in 7 cities. Future SIL is headed to NYC, Chicago and somewhere else for those openings. Partner is doing the celebrations and Q&A's on the Left Coast. We need to get up early to get to Berkeley. The movie starts at 12:30 but the festivities start at 10:30. Argghh. Neither of us are morning people. We renegotiate the meeting time and do breakfast in SF first. I steer us away from the Grand Cafe because it can be pricey, so he steers us to Max's. The Grand Cafe would have been a much better choice. About the same price and much nicer.

Here's the link to the Grand Cafe -
http://www.grandcafe-sf.com/

Check out the website. The place is beautiful and the food is wonderful!

Back to the trip. We took BART to Berkeley. Easy peasy.

Travel tip #6 - just ask
My earlier attempt at BART wasn't as simple. To join the tour, I was instructed to take the cable car from Powell and ask to get off at Union Street. The line was way too long. Before I grabbed a cab, I went into the BART station just to ask. There was really no good way to use BART to get to where I needed to go, but the nice man left the information kiosk to even point me in the best direction to catch a cab. I am always reminded how nice people are when you just ask for their help.

Travel opinion #2 - consider cab fares a part of the travel budget. I STRONGLY believe in this. My vacation time is worth a lot - and the time saved is well worth the money IMO. And, the views of the city out the window when your feet are tired are just lagniappes IMO.

Berkely.
I loved it.
Loved walking around.
Loved trying out LucieV's favorite coffee - Peek's (I steered DF from the Starbuck's, LucieV).
Loved the Shattuck theatre.
It turned out we had about an hour to kill after all. We wandered around and I decided to get my eyebrows waxed. DF wandered alone. I loved the clinician, her exotic accent, her attitude and her technique "It's all in the RIP!".

We wandered around together a bit more and then returned for a wonderful movie and he left a very proud (almost) FIL

Next stop, Chez Panisse for a late lunch.

Great report Starrs. Love your descriptions: the omelet; the tour. Really fun to read.

This sounds a bit familiar, hmmm?

You are being so ambitious! I am taking the easy way out right now and just posting pictures on here. Trip report will follow, but may not match yours in such spendid detail.

More, please!
Deb

My pictures are up on one website, but I'm doing an edited version for a link to here

Hi, starrs!

Great report! The report sounds just like you! I can hear you speaking! Terrific! Please keep it going!

Hi there starrs, I am so enjoying your trip report as although we had a lot of time together I didn't really hear about all of your activities. Love your style of writing also! And I so agree with you regarding taxis. I always look at the expense of taxis as money well spent. I can imagine the Monaco seemed like paradise after your horrible room the first night.

Great report, it sounds like a wonderful trip, thanks so much for sharing with us. ***kim***

Starrs - trust me - next time take a FREE SF City Guides tour.
www.SFCityGuides.org

My wife led the "Victorian San Francisco" tour this past Sunday, and one person on the tour had already done 15 other City Guides tours. At least this "other" person must think the tours are worthwhile. My wife got a round of applause after her tour on Sunday.

Also - my wife & I were having a "flight" of wines at one of our favorite restaurants in the Noe Valley on Saturday night (Incanto). Someone walked up to us and asked if we were Mr & Mrs Stu Dudley. It was Cabovacation - another Fodorite - she recognized us from the pics easytraveler took & posted from the GTG. We chatted for awhile, and I told her she should attend the next GTG.

Great report !!!

Stu Dudley

Fantastic report...I felt as if I were there with you. And I know the city well, staying there several weekends a year.

(errr...I think you mean "Peet's" coffee. Good, yes? I have some in my kitchen right now.)

Ah, yes, Peet's--someone at my school sent E-cups of Peet's to everyone on the staff. Nice way to face the State budget cuts!

Wow! So many typos! Leopard print ROBE in the closet...PEET's coffee... other mistakes too. I'm gonna hear it for sure

Forgot the links too -
http://www.sfcityguides.org/
http://www.monaco-sf.com/

Yes, y'all are right. Peet's! I knew it...am just typing too fast and not proofing. I'm afraid I'll stop if I don't just type - maybe that's a good thing

Yep, TrvlMaven, I sent LucieV one about a year ago. I lots some kind of bet on here (was it about antique sewing machine?). It worked out to be a good deal though. She said the deal was that she was picking up my check at the GTG. I don't remember that, but what a sweet deal!

BTW, I'm not a big coffee fan so I ordered their equivalent of a Starbuck's vanilla bean frappachino (probably misspelled) but DF loved his coffee - and his DD met us there and told us we made a good choice. I was so proud of my SF (well, Berkeley) coffee shop wisdom. This site is SO handy!

Thanks, folks, for the nice comments. Much appreciated. Feel free to start an email campaign to Cybill to let her know she's missing out on a potential BFF

Back to the report...

When did Alice Waters enter my consciousness? I'm not quite sure. I had heard of her and CP. I think I really started paying attention when I attended my state's organic conference. One of my favorite authors was the keynote speaker so I signed up because of that. The conference was being held only a few miles away - out here in the middle of nowhere, so I said "Why not?". I really enjoyed the conference and became much more aware of organic options in my state. I enjoyed the farm tours and was amazed that the guy that pretty much started the most favorite metro Saturday market and started providing the Atlanta restaurants with the baby veggies, etc. was doing this just a few miles away. I was intrigued with the organic flower operation too and considered taking them up on intern opportunities. My land hasn't been "worked" in years and I'm reclaiming the garden spot this year (I hope). Then, Alice Waters came to speak nearby. My awareness grew. I REALLY wanted to eat at CP.

They couldn't seat the GTG group but I made reservations for a Saturday lunch just in case a Fodorite could join me before the dinner GTG. Then, I learned DF would be in SF too.

Let me tell you, his DD was THRILLED! Talk about a great place for a celebration. DF and I were chatting about our plans as we wandered Berkeley and TWO people that overheard us commented on how wonderful our meal would be - and one actually stopped us because we were crossing the street in the "wrong" direction. We shared that our reservations were hours away, and he was relieved. CP is much loved it seems

The meal was sublime. DF had entertained customers there years ago and he said it hadn't changed in the intervening years. Every taste seemed to be...vibrant.

I ordered the Avocado and Beet Salad and I don't remember a better dish - ever. The flavors and textures were incredible. DD anguished over her decision and ordered the rocket salad. She enjoyed it very much. DF didn't order a salad but our waiter brought a "mistake" endive salad to our table and asked if we wanted it. It was the other salad DD wanted and it was wonderful. If we had stopped after the salads, the meal would still have been memorable.

DF and I ordered the chicken. DD ordered the duck. Fabulous. I ordered the apple tart and DD ordered a wonderful unique dessert - but it's not on the menu online and I can't remember it exactly. We were also celebrating DF's birthday and although he declined a dessert the waiter winked and brought the chocolate cake/brownie anyway - complete with a candle. Of course, it disappeared quickly - but my dessert was by far the best on the table!

We ordered a wine I was unfamiliar with - a viognier. It was wonderful too, and seemed to become a theme of the trip to come.

CP = FABULOUS!

And, now, completely full, we head for BART and the SF GTG!

easytraveler was calling just as we started in the tunnel. LoveItaly wasn't picking up her phone. I know...I know... I'm late!

I was the first one there. Got the name tags out on the table. Ordered a bottle of prosecco for the table - to start the party - and because I promised LoveItaly a glass. Got an early start with Luigi and saw immediately what the others had raved about

We've talked about the GTG on other threads so I won't go into a lot of detail here. It was just a blast to FINALLY meet Fodorites that I already "knew" but had never "met".

Perhaps my favorite moment of the night was the expression on Mr. Deb's face when he realized he was steps away from City Lights bookstore. He had been such a dear, patient man. A real trooper in the midst of all the Fodors chatter. Near the end of the meal someone asked about "what's next" plans, and I mentioned that I was going next door to City Lights. The man quickly sat up straight with true excitement on his face. "You mean, FERLINGHETTI'S CITY LIGHTS?!?!" I pointed out the window behind him and the astonishment was apparant. He had been sitting with his back to City Lights all this time! Not long after, as we were mixing and chatting some more I realized he was no longer with us. Yep! He couldn't stand it! He was already across the street, happily browsing

easytravler offered us a ride back and offered to wait a bit longer. I bought Alice Water's book and the poetry book Mr. Deb recommended and we were soon set to go. easytraveler gave us the scenic tour "home". The phone rang and DF was calling. He had gone to the hotel to rest before the 7pm show and we were to go dancing with more of his family members to celebrate his birthday. They were headed to a restaurant instead for a late dinner. He told me the intersection and we were driving on Market...but I opted out of a THIRD meal in less than 12 hours even though "Home" was supposedly wonderful too. I was finally worn completely out!

DF was too. The dancing plans were cancelled.

Travel tip 7a - rent the car at a non-airport location
Travel tip 7b - ask

We are headed to the wine country today. easytraveler told me about the Sonoma Barrel Tasting weekend. I'm pointing us in that direction, but then giving up control.

I'd read on this board the big difference in rental fees and the savings if one doesn't pick up at the airport. I priced the rental with a pickup at SFO and a drop at LAX and it was $900. I changed to a SF pickup a couple of days later and it dropped to a bit over $400. I called another agency (Alamo) and the total cost was less than $300. The pickup location was closer to the Monaco than the original hotel. All is well.

DF went with me and was concerned about our luggage fitting in the car I reserved (economy - the cheapest one possible). I laughed and told him he may have to sit on his suitcase on the ride to Sonoma. When we got to the counter, he pointed to a picture of a PT Cruiser convertible and said I needed to rent one of those. I asked the agent for one...at the economy rate. We all laughed. I'm so funny! DF and I chatted as the agent completed the paperwork and radioed down for my car. He said we may have to wait just a bit.

We say the garage guy washing down a much larger vehicle and DF said "I think that's your car" - but I didn't believe it until it was driven up to us.

http://www.chevrolet.com/hhr/

Here's what the agent gave me - a burnt orange Chevrolet HHR - with a sunroof. Not a PT convertible, but pretty darn close!

I loved driving that car for the next week. Loved the sunroof. Loved all the extra room.

We met DD and friend in Santa Rosa and piled in a much smaller car because I really wanted to enjoy the wine tasting. She suggested the Dry Creek valley. We agreed to whatever she wanted. She suggested picnic items from the Dry Creek General Store. My answer was the same all day - "We're following you...literally".

The sandwiches were great at the General Store. I ordered the BLTA. So sue me again (the A = Avocado...it IS California after all!) I ordered a deviled egg for each of us (refraining from that joke).

It was a magical day. GORGEOUS weather. Good wines. Great company. My favorite was a port at the Truett-Hurst (formely Martin) winery. The best pics of the day came from the creek at the end of the trail behind the winery. A picture perfect day.

We returned to my car and ventured on solo to Napa. I drove around Santa Rosa a bit, and was tickled to see the Snoopy sculpture -
http://santarosa.about.com/od/outings/ss/walkrrs_3.htm

I really enjoyed the drive, reliving previous visits to the area. Such a beautiful part of this country.

tripadvisor served me well this time - much better than Night 1 in SF - and I stayed a basic but nice motel. http://www.winevalleylodge.com/
You can see from the pics that it was and is a basic motor lodge layout, but the rooms are nicely appointed and very clean. It was a good find.

I called Ristorante Allegria and placed an order to pick up. The Napa Cabbage Salad was pretty good. The Pollo Ripieno was awful. Tuscany across the street looked very nice. I wish I had called them instead.

Time to crash and be ready to pick up LoveItaly in the morning.

Dang, I'm too wordy. I was hoping to get out of SF tonight

I'll try to fast forward this. Left Napa grabbing breakfast to go at the motel. Left a bit late 'cause I had to take care of something important that popped up at work. Easy drive to pick her up.

What can I say about a day with LoveItaly? Lovely, just lovely. Lovely home. Lovely company. We talked non-stop on the way in to SF (can you imagine?! ). She navigated us into SF and a great parking spot. DF was waiting for us at the bar of John's Grill. Headed upstairs to meet the Falcon and the Fodorites.

I've been to several GTGs so far and this was the most FUN I've had. I think the pictures previously posted tell the story. It was just so much fun. It was a bit eerie how much Deb and Suki looked alike and their hubbys looked like they could be family too. Sweet Shanghainese came by just to greet us and take some great pics. Easy, fun conversation throughout the GTG and so much laughing! What a great day. What a relief - DF didn't think I was crazier than normal .

Afterwards, the three of us (DF, LoveItaly and I wandered up to check out the changes of Villa Florence. DF really wanted to find the rooftop garden of a building nearby, but we were a bit anxious to beat traffic out of the city. So, a quick good-bye and we were on our way.

Dropped LoveItaly off at home and headed south towards Carmel. My pillow for the night was at Doris Day's hotel, the Cypress Inn - and I made it.

I didn't do the usual SF things on this trip. I've done so much on earlier trips and been lucky enough to experience so much prior. So, although this was not the typical SF visit, it was the very best one (for me) ever!

What a great report! Reliving a lot of moments - all that laughter - and enjoying other new moments as you drive around Sonoma and have your chatty mini-GTG with loveitaly!

Great job! Thanks again for sharing!

Sweet Starrs -- What a terrific report and it was wonderful meeting you!

Thanks, S. It was such a pleasure meeting you.

I'll do Carmel and the central coast trip report tonight.

Hard to go wrong w/the Hotel Monaco...nice report, so far...waiting for the rest.

Okay, I'm not in the greatest of moods, but I'm going to continue with the TR.

Years ago, I heard about Doris Day opening a hotel - a NICE hotel - that allowed dogs. I told myself I would stay there "one day".

I made reservations at a great rate for the Cypress Inn. No pups with me, but that didn't matter.

LOVED the place. Would love to return. LOVED Carmel. I had blown through a couple of times and eaten at Hogs' Breath when Clint owned it. My only "must do" on this trip was the walking tour to see the Comstock fairytale cottages.

I called to make a reservation per the website as instructed and went to sleep very excited about the morning.

http://www.cypress-inn.com/

http://www.carmelwalks.com/

I think TTess told me about this. In any case, I am very glad I found out about it. I really like walking tours (good ones) and I like cottages (am renovating one). This was going to be the highlight of "my" part of the vacation.

I was the only one that showed up at the meeting point. After the awful SF tour, I needed a good tour. So, I proposed an option. If she needs 4 people at $25pp for 2 hours of tour, would she do 1 hour for 1 person for $50? She accepted the offer. It was a great personalized tour. We saw a lot in an hour. I'm sure I didn't see everything the tour usually includes, but I'm betting I saw some unique things too.

I LOVED the cartoons by the local artist, Bill Bates. I've ordered a signed copy of his book from an Amazon dealer.

Gale is coming out with a book soon and I plan to buy that too. I just LOVED getting to know Carmel a bit better.

So, I'm back at the Cypress Inn and I'm tired. I'm beat. I'm whooped. I just don't want to go anywhere else right now. I call and cancel that night's reservation. The Cypress Inn is willing to switch me to another room at the great rate, but the new room still has occupants with a late checkout. I had noticed a Best Western on the hill during the tour so I called them. Yep, they had rooms, they had internet access and I get to stay in Carmel for another night!

http://www.carmelbayviewinn.com/

The location was lovely. The flowers were beautiful. The room was nice, very clean and had a fireplace. The breakfast bar was fine. A good place at a great AAA price.

Okay, so now I have a whole new, unexpected day in Carmel to go "Ahhhh!". What to do?

First stop was lunch at the Tuck Box, thanks to Fodorites' recommendations (BTW the breakfast bar was very nice at the Cypress Inn). Gale had pointed out a certain shop so I strolled to it.

http://www.jandeluz.com/boutique/index.cfm/bath_products/

Jan de Luz - gorgeous products
I say I'm not much of a shopper. A more accurate truth is that I try not to go shopping because I ALWAYS find something I want. Oprah's O List includes their heart shaped jasmine soaps. I so wanted to buy the boxed guest set. I refrained. What tempted my credit card out of safety? DISH TOWELS!

Yep, dish towels. I think I have a sickness. But, they are GORGEOUS French dish towels. I had two monogrammed/ embroidered and then felt a bit guilty. But, when I picked them up, I was so pleased. One I will keep and one is a birthday gift for my sister. She will appreciate it and will use it in her little Provencal-style getaway.

What next? Hmmmm....
I've needed a pedicure for a long time.
I called and booked an appointment for later in the day.
Now, time to head for the beach. GREAT pics, especially of dogs having fun on the beach.
Back in time to wash my feet for the pedicure, and then a true Carmel experience.

It was the best entertainment of the trip so far. They were running behind, so I read Hello magazines and could not avoid eaves-dropping on the conversation. One was the stereotypical, 90 pound "never too thin" horsewoman impressing her massage chair neighbor with the gorgeous accent. It was hard not to laugh. I was "reading" the magazine intently, but would sneak a peek for the Candid Camera. Then, the gorgeous, wealthy, totally bored young woman came in and huffed and puffed through her stack of Hello magazines as she TRIED to impatiently wait her turn. I'm sure she was Paris Hilton's BFF. Well, maybe not. She had no teacup dog in tow and this IS dog-friendly Carmel, after all!

The pedicure was nice. I was a bit surprised that the red I chose was not "in season". I always choose the clearest, reddest red I see from the choices. I was gently corrected and my toesies sport a more appropriate red now

Then, a big oops! They don't take credit cards. I don't have my purse. I just have my cc and debit card and a little bit of cash stashed in my jeans pocket. If looks could kill...

What to do other than to promise to return? I'm sure they didn't expect me too. I waddled in my plastic pedicure slippers to the car, drove around town to find an ATM, waddled to the walk-up ATM to get money, and returned within 5 minutes with the fee plus a 20% tip. I didn't even get a smile in return I am definitely not Carmel-material! LOL!

I had a lovely image of a picnic on the beach, so the next stop was the deli/ store/ wine store. But, they were about to close. Most of the deli items had already been put up, so I choose from what was still available. Little plastic containers of orzo pasta salad, artichokes, chicken salad, grabbed some cheese and bread and a red wine. Off to the beach with the makings of a picnic.

The beach is freezing! I snack on my dinner in the warm car, get out in time to take some really pretty shots, and then back to the hotel to snack some more on the picnic items.

I chuckle to myself for experiencing my second night of what I call to myself "NeoPatrick's Absolutely Depressing and Pitiful Dinner in the Room". It's good for a chuckle, but in truth, I really enjoy dinners this way. It's even better when someone's in the room with me, but a great way to dine (for me) when traveling on the road for work AND leisure.

I spend some time on the internet doing some work stuff and some email and Fodors posting and go to sleep absolutely thrilled with my "Ahhh!" day in Carmel.

Fabulous trip report! I'm just loving reading it!

Do you ever have one of those surreal vignette moments? Almost like a few seconds of a movie moving in slow motion when you are hyper aware of small details - but you aren't really sure why.

At the dinner GTF, I saw a hand holding a black cirle studded with silver medallions dangling from a hand and moving slowly across my field of vision. All is slow motion. After a couple of eyeblinks, I come "back" to normal speed and watch Shanghainese finish the motion of handing a hatband to Mr. Deb. It had dropped off and she found it and was returning it to its rightful owner. A few moments but the image of that hatband was burned into this old brain.

1, 2, 3, 4 days later I'm returning from the point at Point Lobos State Park and as I near the parking lot I see...that headband. Seriously. Of all the details contained in the row of cars and their contents, I see that headband. It's on a hat on a man sitting in a car in the parking lot. Sitting next to the man is a lady who looks a lot like Deb. Could it be? What are the odds?

They are still sitting in the car as I near my car. I walk toward their car, and the passenger side window is open. I call "Deb? Deb?" No response. I walk to the other side of the car. It HAS to be the same hat. One more "Deb?". The woman in the neighboring car is watching me carefully. She hears me - but the occupants of the car don't. I'm afraid she thinks I'm a weirdo and I can imagine CHiPs cars or park rangers squealing in the lot to arrest the weird woman approaching cars in the parking lot. One more "Deb?" and I go to my car.

One more attempt. The space beside them is empty. Surely they will be exiting their car sometime soon. Another approach to the car and another "Deb?" Ta-da! I get her attention. It IS Deb! What are the odds. Now, really. What are the odds we would be at the same place at the same time days after the GTG? But, even so, what are the odds that I would have noticed them sitting in one of the many cars as I returned to my car. It was the glint of the hatband that drew my attention - and I probably wouldn't have noticed the hatband if it hadn't had dropped off Mr. Deb's hat and Shanghainese hadn't dangled it in front of my face.

I find the whole thing completely amazing. And, we got a couple of more pics out of it!

We REALLY do need orange label pins or SOMETHING to identify fellow Fodorites out in public.


On down the coast. Despite asking and listening to others' input, I still found my car turning into the Nepenthe parking lot. LOVED the lunch. Loved the view - nothing like it. Liked my sandwich very much. Had a neat conversation with the woman lunching next to me and she gave me some travel tips for further down the coast.

There is nothing like the drive from Carmel to Cambria. Nothing. It is as beautiful this time as it has been every time I've driven it. I am very, very happy. The Wicked soundtrack is blasting on the CD player, the sunroof is open and I'm getting a bit of sun and having a wonderful time, stopping to take some pics and just enjoying life.

I had cancelled my earlier reservation and so had to make new plans. I posted a quick question on the board. MarkVK had emailed me previously a suggestion. I almost randomly chose the next hotel - but not quite. A good internet connection was important to me. I didn't spend much time online, but it really helped to take care of important work issues as they popped up or to let folks know I'd respond next week in full.

Mark recommended the Best Western Cavalier in San Simeon but the website didn't indicate internet service. The one in Cambria on Moonstone Beach did. I called to confirm that the room had a fireplace, WIFI, AND a patio with an ocean view. All for an amazing price. Moonstone Beach (whatever you are), here we come.

Now, it's been a really good trip so far. One of my best ever. I'm very happy and appreciative. So, I'm not discounting anything that has happened so far when I say the FABULOUS part of the vacation is about to begin. My FABULOUS friend (to be called FF) was driving up from West Hollywood to meet me for a couple of days. We had no plans. It had been a few years since we had seen each other. We had never traveled together. We both had big ????s in our heads. The next two days were to be....
FABULOUS!!!

Great trip report Starrs! I am glad you had such a nice trip.

Will

Hugs to you dear friend as I am so enjoying your report!! And amazing, you and Deb and Mr. Deb being in the same parking lot.

And if you don't mind..I will share with our Fodorite friends your special gift that you brought from Georgia to give to me. I had broken a beautiful and sentimental plate that had been part of my paternal grandmother's china set. I was heartbroken. It was a "willow" pattern, an English company had produced it back in the 1800's.


Dear starrs brought me a plate that had belonged to her 106 year old grandmother, her grandmother who is still alive and well. It is the Blue Willow pattern produced in Ohio. Her grandmother's plate sits proudly on my coffee table and brings me a smile and much joy every time I see it. It is though a bit of starrs is still here and her precious grandmother's strong and lively spirit is also.

But I don't know what the IN red polish color is here in California, sigh.

This is great. I'm hanging on every word.

Okay. We LOVED Moonstone Beach. Just loved it. We stopped to look at cottages and the desk clerk said this is "flyover" territory for Californians. I showed my pics to my LA friend and they are going there for a weekend getaway. I really don't know how to describe it. Just a small stretch of oceanfront hotels that are mostly small motel set-ups but most (all?) looked nice and comfortable.

The Best Western was very nicely appointed. Nice linens. Spa type toileties. Gas fireplace in the room. Waffle weave rooms. Patio seating area outside the slider. MUCH nicer inside than you would expect from the outside. Neat as a pin and a great breakfast bar with make-your-own waffles, hard boiled eggs and GOOD coffee - 3 types to choose from. Juice, bagels, etc. We had a wonderful breakfasts on the patio, listening to the ocean and visiting with our neighbors.

(The road does run between the hotels and the beach).

There is a very nice boardwalk running along the beaches and tidepools with benches and informative signs at the tidepools. I know. It reminds me of Jekyll Island, GA. Moderate accomodations. Nice waterfront (west coast vs. east coast beaches). But, no pretension. I loved it.

We walked to the Moonstone Bar and Grill and had a wonderful dinner. Steamers for appetizer and good entrees.

A short drive away is Cambria with two sections - East Village and West Village. There were some neat shops that we didn't have time to check out, but we did eat at Linn's. Great comfort food and wonderful pies, including their ollalieberry pie and drinks - a hybrid between a raspberry and a blackberry. I took some of the preserves as a hostess gift for friends down the road.

If I lived in CA, I would go back in a heartbeat for a weekend getaway.
If I were driving the coast, I'd stop there again.
We only stayed two nights, but we would have enjoyed more time there. Our neighbors considered staying another night...they just didn't want to go home. Just a very peaceful, pleasant place. (and we got a GREAT AAA rate).

I'm always intrigued when I read posts where the poster is wondering if Fodorites are being "themselves". I guess the alternative is assuming an alternate, imaginary persona for posting? Well, I go on the assumption that people are pretty much themselves on this board. For better or worse, I know I am. Kind of nice, kind of sarcastic, definitely opininated, but like to be helpful.

But, in THIS case, I did assume a new identity. Well, I was ASSIGNED a new identity. My FF decided that we were to be "Laurette and Didier Viognier" for the duration of our getaway. I'm not sure WHY...but the Viogniers we did become. Now, in emails he jabbered away in French that I didn't even bother to translate. I just trusted that all would be well. And, it was BETTER than "well" - it was FABULOUS!

Our neighbors became Ladies Pennington and Covington (no point in asking why - the names were probably pulled out of thin air by FF). They seemed to enjoy the craziness and would join us for happy hour and pistachios. Life was pretty darn sweet for the Viogniers.

I didn't have any plans for the next 2 days. FF didn't have any plans for the next 2 days. The lack of design...was FABULOUS. We spent a lot of time catching up and sharing stories.

The location would be fabulous for a visit to the Hearst Castle. The area is surrounded by the Hearst Ranch. I'd been before and so had FF. So, we laughed and ate and drank and laughed and walked until we decided it was Paso Robles we would go.

starrs -- I like Cambria too when there are no crowds, it is so calming walking on the boardwalk and gazing at the ocean.

This is so great! You really tell the story such that it is as if we were there with you. How do you manage such wonderful details but no tedium? I guess it is called being a gifted writer!

Wow, thanks, socialworker! That's a HUGE compliment. You just made my day.

More from the Viogniers after dinner tonight.

Great report. I'm so glad to know that the Tuck Box is still there in Carmel. I used to go there with my grand parents and my mom and dad oh so many years ago. We always went for breakfast...the scones, the scones!!!!! I guess you found out the air is quite "rare" in Carmel. LOL

I love tea or dish towels too. I pick them up everywhere. Some I use, but some I just display in my armoire.

Boy, you sure packed a lot into your trip. I was thinking about you at Barrel Tasting..I kept wondering if maybe you were in the same tasting room and I didn't even know it. I just finally got all my wine stashed away in my frige on Saturday.

Are you related to THEEEEE Voigners? You know the Kentucky Voigneirs...very old money, horse people, all vedy vedy, you know.

I don't KNOW!
I have to ask Didier.
I'm sure that if we ARE, we are the black sheep of the family

Tell Didier that this is the POINDEXTER Voigniers branch of the family. Perhaps you may be distant cousins or something. Dripping money and thorobreds ya' know.

"...Dripping money and thorobreds ya' know. "

Oh, this sounds sooooo ME!

But, I do have a stallion in the back yard - and a pretty nice quarter horse. Alas, no throughbreds

"...Dripping money and thorobreds ya' know. "

Oh, this sounds sooooo ME!

But, I do have a Appaloosa stallion in the back yard - and a pretty nice quarter horse. Alas, no throughbreds

But, a friend in Texas owned a real life racehorse! I still get those damn race email update. Mine just race to the feed bucket

Anyhoo, I'll ask Didier.

So much for editing talent

I know you have horses...envy envy...I'm partial to Arabians myself, but I'd take anything at this point. Problem is, I'd need a winch to get me on it!!!!!!

Back to the trip report -

One bad thing about our stay at Moonstone Beach = virtually no cell service by my carrier
One good thing about our stay at Moonstone Beach = virtually no cell service by my carrier



So, imagine my surprise at being awoken by my cell phone ringing at 8:30 am "our time". It was a work call. I opened the sliding door, tried the patio and found a small window of good reception in the parking lot. Conducted a bit of work listening to the music of the waves.

Back in the room Didier stirred enough to ask "Are we getting up now?" My response - "Not unless you want to". The next time we woke up was almost noon. Ahhhh! Full relaxation mood had finally overtaken the Type A's.

Lunch in Cambria and then meandering to a vague destination - Paso Robles wineries.

The desk clerk had recommended a brochure with a few wineries listed. I also picked up the brochure that listed about 200 of them. Even so, the "follow your nose" was still the plan.

The drive into Paso Robles was beautiful. I was surprised by the topography. The green hills reminded me of Ireland. When they got craggier, they reminded Didier of the Waipi'o valley. Beautiful. The California cows did indeed look happy. It was a gorgeous sunshine-y day. We drove happily toward Paso Robles with no real plan and passed several wineries that intrigued us.

When I saw the sign for Peachy Canyon, we turned in quickly. We loved this place. The house reminded me of my farmhouse. The land was gorgeous. The tasting was very nice. We loved the wines. The only white available for tasting was... a Viognier. I'm tellin' ya, this trip is magical! The wine was wonderful! My choices were the Viognier (of course) and the Snow Zinfandel. I also left with a free Peachy Canyon poster. Didier was entranced by the Meyers Lemon Oil and the DeVine Cabernet.

www.peachycanyon.com

As we left, we asked about sparkling wines. He pointed out the window, up the hill and JanKris was our next stop.

http://www.jankriswinery.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/page=index.html

We didn't like the sparkling wines (they offered a raspberry flavored one and an almond.) A big disappointment. Their Viognier was watery. We really didn't find one that wow'd us. But, they had an amazing port. Amazing. It was wonderful! Strangely, they didn't have labels for it, so she wrote the name on the bottle - and Didier asked her to add a message for me at the same time. Awwwwww... It was so sweet. I do smile when I see the bottle They also had a barrel full of unlabelled wines. Their story was that Jan and Kris' dad found some bottles that somehow went without labels. It was a grab-bag/ mystery approach - but at a great price. I bought a couple of bottles and enjoyed the sense of adventure (and the price).

As we left, I played around with the new camera and realized (using my 12x zoom) that the recommended winery was right there too.

http://www.castorocellars.com/

We really enjoyed this place. Great, FREE wine tasting. Good gift shop. Informative pourer. Oh, and they have some dam fine wines too.

Now, off to Paso Robles for our dinner reservation - and perhaps the best meal of the trip.

I am new on Fodor's. Enjoyed your report Stars. I knew I liked you when you told us you had horses. I am a horse lover as well.

I love going to CA when the hills are still green, just beautiful. Isn't it great when you finally "let go" and just relax. It's kind of shocking to wake up at noon but so great when you realize how good you feel and you don't have to worry about being anywhere at any particular time. That's what a vacation is all about.

Travel Tip # something - www.foodandwine.com

Travel Tip # something+ - www.opentable.com

FF had a brainstorm - "Let's eat at Babs' favorite restaurant!" He had heard the last time he was in Paso Robles that one of Barbra Streisand's favorite restaurants was in Paso Robles.

I was googling trying to figure out which restaurant it might be, and FF told me to use www.foodandwine.com. Only 1 restaurant showed up, and it was too early to call to make reservations, so I used NeoPatrick's hint and used www.opentable.com to make a reservation.

We arrived at Villa Creek early for our reservation - and it turned out NOT to be the restaurant he remembered. But, 15 minutes later we were thrilled at the "mistake".

I'm really not a foodie. I like good food, love comfort food, believe in the slow food/ organic food concept, but don't call myself a foodie. The menu looked good -
http://www.villacreek.com/restaurant/dinner.html -
but I wasn't expecting what was to come.

I ordered the asparagus soup and FF ordered the spinach salad. We shared.

Our reaction to the soup was the same - "OMG! OMG! OMG!". It was INCREDIBLE. I can't believe the server described it as less "interesting" than the other appetizers.

FF's spinach sald was like no other I've had before. The spinach was "Bloomsdale spinach" and the server said it would be crunchier than we are used to. It was...AMAZING. Simple amazing. I still go back in time to the crunch and the texture of that spinach. The pecans, cranberries and mustard bacon vinaigrette were great additions, but the spinach itself was wonderful.

When I saw the "Charcuterie Plate" I thought of this board and smiled

Our entrees were good. FF enjoyed the lamb and I ordered the Hearst Ranch Flat-iron steak served with the mashed potatoes rather than the wild mushroom bread pudding. They brought asparagus instead of the haricot vert and it was a pleasant surprise.

The dessert was baked pear something...can't remember. FF wanted it and I tried a bite. I couldn't wait to get back to Cambria to get pie from Linn's!

We rolled ourselves to the car and out of the little town of PR, back through the green hills and toward Moonstone Beach. We stopped at Linn's and I got a slice of the famous Ollalieberry pie to go.

The whole day was magical. The hotel offers a pool in warmer weather but the hot tub was open. We were going to walk the boardwalk, soak in the tub, or SOMETHING. We crashed. Barely had time to share the wonderful slice of pie before sleep took over.

Dang, for someone that isn't a foodie, I sure am describing food a lot.

The free breakfast at the Best Western was good. For me "good" is when they have a hard boiled egg (for morning protein) and make-your-own-waffles (as a treat because I only have them at hotels or in the mountains). Bagels, danish, cereal, etc. A couple of juice choices. THREE coffee choices. We carried our goodies across the parking lot and enjoyed a breakfast in the sunshine looking at the ocean. The line of birds on the rooftop enjoyed watching US.

It was time for both of us to go so we wouldn't get stuck in LA traffic - but we didn't want to go. So, we wandered over to the boardwalk and strolled for a while. We enjoyed the view, the tidal pools, a short stroll on the beach, a photo op with feet in the cold Pacific...but mostly just talking. But, the fears of LA traffic finally tore us away and it was time for Part 3 of my journey.

Santa Barbara - was just a drive thru...but LITERALLY a drive through along State Street to find "them".

A week before my departure, the youtube video of The Dog, The Cat and The Rat made its rounds via email. I jested with online friends that I would stop and find them. Even though I was short on time, I wanted to see if I COULD find them.

None of this trip was typical tourist fare, but Santa Barbara was especially strange. A drive to find three furry (are they really?) friends we saw on youtube.

I found them. Right there. Downtown in Santa Barbara. I took a right at the next light, found a parking space waiting for me, walked less than a block total...and there they were!

Lots of speculation about the animals being drugged or starving or unhealthy or mistreated. They looked great - and I'm not sure I expected them to. They kind of wandered around until someone got a camera ready, and then he would put the cat on the dog's back and the rat on top and they often would stay there for a while... and then "at ease" until the next photo op.

Now, for the really strange part. The owner had been chatting with a couple and then it was just me... and then he said he really needed to go to the bathroom...so I asked him if I wanted to baby-sit/ critter-sit/ stay with them?... and he said "yes".

So, here I am, sitting on a bench in downtown Santa Barbara with a rat on my lap, a dog at my feet, and a cat (on a leash) wandering around a bit watching bugs. Surreal!

The rat was in my lap because he cautioned me not to let the rat run off. There was nothing keeping the rat attached to anyone... and I had a vision of Rat making a run for it through traffic and then... well, I put Rat on my lap and talked and cooed and... filmed it all. Thank goodness that my new digital camera had the video feature. There's a not-so-great, but documentation-that-it-really-happened footage of Rat checking out the camera and a "behind the scenes" view of being the Dog/Cat/Rat handler in Santa Barbara

A women wandered up and started talking about seeing the video. I wondered if she wondered why this woman was here instead of the man. Then, the owner walked up and we all chatted for a while. I handed Rat off and relaxed to be relieved of Celebrity Safety Duty, and took a few more pics. I sent some via cellphone to my friends back home - and they were suitably amazed at my finding them - and a couple were truly jealous. I love my friends

One of them called immediately - and asked me to go to see a vet's office at the corner of streets X and Y. "Why?" I asked. "Okay, I'll do it". So, I found myself at said location, took a few pictures for my friend, and introduced myself as the friend of their webmaster. I DO think they looked at me quite strangely. I'm in their reception room, talking to friend while sick vet is on hold as she is home recuperating and I'm being told to look for a certain person, so I look up at a 4 people and asked correct person directly "Are you P?". "Um, yes" - and you could see them wondering if they should call security Friend wanted me to take a tour of the place. I just asked if I could use their restroom and then continued on my way down the coast.

Starrs, you've outdone yourself!
What fun to come back from our month long sojourn in Sarasota,to Fodorsville, and find your great trip report! Keep it going! It sounds wonderful.

Thanks, ccs. It was a fun trip!

Forgot to mention - I asked at the vet office about The Dog, The Cat and The Rat. The young lady agreed that they looked very happy and healthy. They haven't treated the trio, but have watched and visited with them. I agree fully.

And, of course, the wine at Villa Creek was the Viognier. It was the last evening in the Central Coast for the Viogniers.

Starrs,

I've enjoyed your trip report and your style of writing. Sounds like you had a fantastic time, and the Monaco and Moonstone Beach are my favorite parts. Sometimes its just fun to let things unfold.

like_2travel

Well it's about time you got back to telling the tale. I've been checking every day for a week now.

Has anyone seen the little man with the dog outside Galerie Lafayette in Paris? Same kind of thing, people think the dog is drugged. I'm trying to remember if he had a cat too...hmmm.

You're lucky that rat didn't crap all over you. You lead a charmed life.

On that note, I'm off to bed. It's almost 9, way past my bed time.

Sounds like you had a wonderful time.
Enjoyed your trip report.

Thanks, guys!

The start of the pics -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/344814/

Previous pics -
The SF GTG - http://www.worldisround.com/articles/343883/index.html

And, the accidental meet-up with Mr and Mrs DebitNM at Point Lobos -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/343916/index.html

Hi starrs, thanks for sharing your beautiful photos. I loved them, wish I was in Carmel, sigh. Take care, hope all is going well today.

What a GREAT report, starrs! I've enjoyed every bit of it, and it brings back such great memories of fabulous places. Such great details. And oh how i love the central ca coast.

So cool you saw mr and mrs debit at pt lobos - such a stunning, special place made even more memorable!

And the dog, cat and rat - and being the critter sitter, too funny! We saw them last july ('07)in Santa Fe. Absolutely fascinating! Didn't realize he took his show on the road but what a crowd he had gathered every time we walked thru the square.

I hope there's even more of your report, starrs!? Thanks for sharing!

The Winery that has the porch you want...we were there!!!!!!! Can't remember the name of it. I didn't buy there but my brother did. They actually had a pretty good red on sale..it was starting to "go down the other side" and would have been great for cooking with, but I was running our of room in my carry box.

It was formerly the Martin family winery. Now, the Truett-Hurst. That's Mr. Hurst talking to DF's daughter.

I knew he looked familiar..I had skipped the close up of the picture before the porch..just looked at it and remembered the name after I saw it. Heavens, we could have been tasting side by side and never knew it...well, I'd know your Crocs anywhere??? LOL

Great reading and great pics.

Were you there that Sunday afternoon? That would have been bizarre. Dang! We need those Fodors pins

Alas, I was not wearing my Crocs. I know, I know. Head hanging in shame. I was in demure black Merrills.

I'll send you a pic of the four of us if you think we were there at the same time.

We loved the place. The wines. Wandering down to the river behind. GREAT photo opp!

I bemoaned leaving the port behind, but then Didier bought me some at JanKris outside of Paso Robles and I was all better

www.wineroad.com/wineries/282
Phil Hurst

Well darn...we were there on Sat, while you were Get togethering. That would have been a kick though wouldn't it? We headed the other direction on Sunday..wanted to hit some new places...we spend too much time at the old favorites..except Wilson is ALWAYS a must..not only the wine but the tri-tip a fabulous cream of mushroom soup!!!!

On Sunday we hit Hop Kiln..I remember that because I bought wine there...and some others.

I have a fabulous Chocolate Port I got at Rosemblum in Healdsburg last year. I haven't opened it yet..it's in my wine frige...I'll save it for your next trip west..should be really good by then ya think?

I'm hoping to go to Seattle and the San Juans in July. Ya wanna bring it up there for an afternoon cocktail hour? Or, does it need to rest for a while and wait til I get back to CA?

starrs -- you write FABULOUS reports and take fantastic pictures. It was so much fun meeting you and hope you come out to the Left Coast again!

I'm sure it can rest for a couple of years or you could fly into Reno, we can crack the port and send you on the Seattle via Alaska Airlines with a smile on your face and you could have a lovely nap on the way...the result of all that great port.

Thanks, Shanghainese. I USED to be a Serious Hobby Photographer. That was a couple of decades ago (we used to use the lab's stud fees to buy new lenses, etc. A win-win for all ) Now, I give credit to a great new point and shoot digital camera. It has a lot of capabilities, IF I decide to relearn everything that I've forgotten. I used to develop my own B&Ws too. Won a photography contest hosted by a local nature reserve. Hmmmm... maybe it's time to get serious again....
Nah, maybe not!

Here are the pics -

GTG -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/343883/index.html

To Carmel -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/344814/index.html

Carmel to Hollywood -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/344838/

Back to the report.
Onward southward toward LA.
Note: I HATE traffic.
Additional note: I have traveled LA for business and I have experienced the madness before.
Conclusion: I am an idiot to have timed my arrival during late afternoon. I take a deep breath, make a plan to keep to the Pacific Coast Highway - no matter what - and get to my OF's house WHENEVER.

OF = Old friend. Friends since 1981. She moved to the Left Coast a few years ago and I haven't visited yet.

Happy through Malibu. Kept a sharp eye out for Jen (as in Jennifer Aniston). I am quite sure that if I stopped and found my way to the beach I would stumble upon her and Norman on a stroll and of COURSE she would invite me up for a cocktail or glass of wine until the traffic cleared.

But, I didn't detour

On the way, happy in the sunshine streaming in the sunroof, and moving at a good rate of speed, I wondered to myself what would make an ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL trip even more wonderful.

Of course, there was only one answer (for me).

WICKED. My addiction. It had been the soundtrack to the entire trip and the headgear of choice. A few phone calls. A few plans made. Tix bought. Wicked it is! Oh, what joy!

At Santa Monica, I decide it may be time to venture over to the 405. WRONG. I mean, REALLY wrong. I get on...and immediately get off. Well, of course not IMMEDIATELY, but as soon as possible. I. Hate. Traffic.

Cruising toward Venice Beach I think, hmmmm, maybe I should check out VB. Fortunately, my senses returned. I did the BK drive-through thing and continued on my way.

And continued. And, continued. And, continued. Very, very slowly. Painfully slowly. But, still faster than the 405, I am quite sure.

Every hour, on the hour, I would call and cheerfully announce that I'm sure I'll be there in an hour or so. Only, to call when the hands reached 12 again. Not even music to cheer me up. I wallowed in the misery of LA traffic on the PCH in the dark when I couldn't see anything anymore.

I needed to stop for a restroom break, but just didn't want to. Finally, it wasn't a choice anymore. Ahead, what did I see? A FedEx Kinkos.

Travel Tip something: I like to stop at FedEx Kinkos on the road. I can check email. I can use their restroom. I can google to get a map to see what my options are. I did all three.

The freeway is only a few miles up 17th Street. I admit defeat and head that way. 18 miles later, traveling at a great rate of speed, I arrive at my destination.

I walk in the door to stand and watch CNN coverage of the tornado that just hit downtown Atlanta. Talk about surreal.

Starrs, love your whole trip report and your description of LA Area traffic is right on - whenever I am in traffic I wonder why I love living here and then remember - it's the weather!! Thanks for sharing your trip.

The joy of drving in LA...I just can't actually. I had a friend from Reno that moved down to Santa Monica so her husband could go to school there. I went to visit her about eight months or so after she had moved and as we were driving around I asked her how the heck she did it. She was the cutest little thing, very very tiny and she was driving like a holy terror...just like the rest of them. She said the first month she was down there, every time she drove somewhere she just cried all the way...LOL. Eight months later, that little girl was a DEMON!!!!!!!

Thanks, Cali,
LOL, crefloors. I've found myself racing a cab at a light in Manhattan only a block after picking up the rental car. Sometimes the "When in Rome" approach is NOT a good thing!

So, we stood there and watched. Literally stood. Could not believe what we are seeing. Too late to call back home so we are texting folks we think may be awake. The young'uns are - and tell us that so far, everyone we know is okay. My DF (whom kybourbon and Cimbrone met at the last Atlanta GTG) is supposed to be there for the conference that is being held. Is he there - or at home in Buckhead? His Emory buddies have stayed in touch since school and many of them are there. It will be morning until we can confirm that everyone is okay. It is amazing how limited the human damage was. A friend visited my dad last week in the hospital and was wearing a CNN ID tag. He's a consultant working there (post-retirement) and he said they had filled 64 trailer loads of ceiling fragments from the CNN Center itself. Just amazing. DF went down the next morning, just in case the classes weren't cancelled and he said it was a ghost town. Very, very quiet in the midst of the usually busiest part of Atlanta.

It was hard to wind down after the last 12 hours. LA traffic. Tornado hitting downtown Atlanta (home). I retired to friend's office to wind down on the computer a bit and leave messages for family and friends.

Now it's the next-to-the-last day of vacation. It's been a wonderful trip. Phase 3 of seeing old/new friends in California.

Today is the day they folks at home THOUGHT would be Grandma Starrs' funeral. While I was gone, she stopped eating and drinking. I didn't know of course. They decided to let me enjoy my first real vacation in such a long, long time. But, all of a sudden, she decided to accept food and liquids. She drank 4 large glasses of water in a row. Thirsty girl! She may indeed make it to her 107th birthday

Today was a lazy day in sunny southern California. OF and I were supposed to get up and get going. We just lazed around and talked. So much stuff to talk about. Finally got out the door and headed to the beach. Crystal Cove in fact. Time for lunch at the Beachcomber.

While we waited for a table we wandered over to see the "Beaches" house. Neat to see. Kept waiting for Bette and Barbara to show up. (see pics on the link)

Lunch at the Beachcomber was good. Would love to come back and stay in one of the cottag

Would love to come back and stay in one of the cottages sometime.

http://www.crystalcovebeachcottages.org/

Here's the lunch place -
http://www.thebeachcombercafe.com/

A drive down the PCH in a convertible...what could be better? Time to do a little bit of shopping. Nice shops. Especially enjoyed Art of the Soul. Browsed the Brian Andreas prints and sculptures to see if there was anything I HAD to have.

Can't find a link to the store, but here's one to Brian Andreas
www.storypeople.com

Another wonderful shop = Tuvalu
http://www.tuvaluhome.com/lbp/

Found a glass doorknob to take back to use in the farmhouse.

A great lazy day and afternoon. Time to head back home, try out the "mystery bottle" wine from JanKris and analyze the world in long conversation.

Whoa! Just found this...ttt!

Thanks for topping, TTess.

I forgot to type "Laguna Beach". Geez.

That night we were planning to go out to eat, but were enjoying talking so much we just pulled out munchies and wine and snacked our way through dinner. One of my favorite ways to spend an evening.

The next morning, headed back to Laguna Beach and enjoyed wonderful breakfast sandwiches at the Orange Inn. GREAT local place with friendly staff, good food and the feeling that you're in a time warp - taking you back to the casual surfing days of Laguna. (see pic on link)

Back "home" to pack and load up to head back to LA for....WICKED!!!

There has to be a bigger fan - somewhere, but I'm not sure where. I am a bit of a Wicked freak, I guess. The soundtrack was my companion down the coast and I was beyond thrilled to see the LA production.

I have a hard time not hating Patrick because he got to see Kristen and Idina on stage together in NYC. Not only that, he saw them improvise during a technical snafu. Lucky dog. I've watched enough videos to have tiny Kristen on stage next to Idina imprinted on my mind. I've seen two touring shows and it was an adjustment to see Galinda and Elphaba about the same size (yes, I am fully aware I am weird). But, to see a big/tall Megan/Hilty next to a little Caissie/Elphaba...well, I was not sure at all. Megan does a great campy Galinda. But, Caissie blew me away as Elphaba. Absolutely blew me away. And, it was a treat to see Jo Anne Worley on stage. I loved the Pantages theatre too.

I floated out of the theatre and on to a late lunch with my FF at Charcoal -
http://www.charcoalhollywood.com/

I corrupted usually healthy eating FF by ordering the spinach and artichoke dip. A lemon drop for me and I can't remember what for him Wedge salad here with chicken added for protein and crab cakes sandwich there. We shared the upside down apple pie. Wonderful meal.

The food was good, but the best part was laughing. My Didier wanted a play-by-play of my trip, starting at the beginning and continuing through our travels (described in third person, of course!). Immensely interested in Phase 3 and we just laughed and laughed and amazed at how much we enjoyed being together, enjoyed traveling together and missed being with each other. We decided our next rendezvous will be in Las Vegas.

We lingered over the meal and the conversation until it was past time for me to head to the airport. A quick drive through West Hollywood and then on to LAX.

Ms. Tote Bags had not sorted things out beforehand, so upon arrival at the rental car return I told them I needed extra time. I was instructed to pull the car to an adjacent lot and I sorted through Fodors orange tote and Cape Cod canvas tote and Trader Joe's shopping bag and dish towel gift bag and assorted bottles of wine and olive oil (using easytraveler's prize of bubble wine bottle wrap) and somehow got it all to fit in the rolling suitcase and duffle bag (checked items) and backpack (with laptop and purse) and Trader Joe's bag with mags, jackets, and wine glasses. 2 to check and 2 to carry. Still got there in plenty of time to check in and wait at the gate.

I'm a lucky sleeper. I can sleep anywhere. I stash my stuff and pull out quilted jacket and fleece tunic and have my pillows for the ride home. I sleep 80% of the time and so the red-eye flight was a good deal - more time on vacation and a slow work day waiting for me upon arrival.

I was wondering if you were using your fashionable ORANGE tote!

thereyet

Terrific report starrs. Glad you had such a good time. You sure did a lot in the time you had.

It's lovely to shlep around some days. I visited my friend in Las Vegas (Hendersen) a few months ago and on Saturday we didn't even get out of your jammies until 4:00 in the afternoon. It was one of the best days I've had in the last few months.

topping for Lizzie
Some Carmel photos are here
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/344814/

Hi Starrs - LOVED your photos! You have quite an eye - loved your framing. That wasn't my former house, by the way, ours was this past summer. If we still had it, I would've taken you on a tour. Would it help to tell you about it and then you can picture it in your head?

Cheers from sunny Carmel! It rained last night and was beautiful all day.

Thanks TTess. I'm rediscovering how much I enjoy taking pictures. After about a decade of using disposables I'm enjoying the new digital. So far, it's mostly used as "point and shoot" but I'm slowly venturing out a bit and playing with the other options. I envy your opportunity to live in Carmel. What a lovely place - a bit Shangrai-LaISH.

I found it so interesing that homes did not have numbered address, but only names and that for sale ads list location info "4th house NW of Fodors on Travel Lane". LOVED the Bates' cartoons in the PO. Loved the flowers. And, of course, loved the Comstock cottages. The walking tour helped make the town come alive for me. Sure, give me some details and I'll see if I can "see" your former house!

topping for treetops for Carmel info