Plan to fly out from Albany NY to Vegas in August for an 18 day total trip with my wife and 17 year old daughter. We are most interested in seeing the natural wonders of the Southwest, camping, short to moderate day hikes (maybe a few strenuos ones), photography, Native American historic and cultural sites. I saw the GC and Oak Creek Canyon as a teen, briefly, while hitch hiking to California. Wife and child have not been to SW at all. Our budget is for mostly camping, figuring on a Hotel or Lodge to shower and recoup every third or fourth day. We enjoy vast panoramas, but I also hope to explore and encounter some of the more subtle beauty of the scenery, waters, flora and fauna. Don't mind crowds if they are necessary to see some of the most important sites, but also like to be off the beaten path. We don't get too do much long distance travel (usually stick to hiking and canoeing in the mountains of the NE), and I fear spreading our trip too thin. Priorities for us could be Bryce, Zion, North Rim of the GC, Mesa Verde and Canyon De Chelly. If we went to all of those places, I figured on at least driving through Capitol Reef, Canyonlands area, though not necessarily spending as much time. I figure Arches is too far out of the way for the same trip. Grand Staircase Escalante sounds more like a trip for backpacking and four wheeling, which is less likely for this trip. Would appreciate opinions on how many days in each place, must see, must stay places, most scenic drives etc. Is my itinerary already too broad? Should we plan and reserve sites and lodgings everywhere, or is there some wiggle room for spontaneity? Is an SUV rental neccesary? We plan on using Vegas as a flight destination only, not really interested in staying there. Thank you all in advance for your help!
Southwest Vacation
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I'm not sure why you choose the N. Rim but the S. Rim has more view points and a broader view of the canyon. You could really do either rim without going out of your way. If you are going to camp at either rim, I recommend making campging or motel reservations. This is really the only place you will have to worry about this and since it is your first stop, you will know the dates.
Las Vegas to N. Rim is 265 miles via I-15, Hwy 9, 59, 389 and Alt 89. Two nights at N. Rim. unless you plan on hiking down into the canyon or decide on the S. Rim, then spend 3 nights.
N. Rim to Monument Valley, Utah is 245 miles via Alt 89, take hwy 89 up to Page, AZ and have lunch there. Maybe squeeze in the Upper Antelope Slots Canyon tour that takes 1 1/2 hour before heading out on hwy 98, Hwy 160 to Kayenta and then Hyw 163 to Monument Valley. Spend one night at Monument Valley. There is a nice KOA with swimming pool and showers in Goulding or there is the Monument Valley campground with showers and 360 degree views!
Tour Monument Valley before driving the 131 miles to Canyon de Chelly. Spend 2 nights. The first day you can explore the canyon from the rim. I prefer the south rim. The next day take the 1/2 day or all day tour into Canyon de Chelly. To really see the canyon you have to go with a guide. The tour out of the Thunderbird lodge is excellent! The campground at Canyon de Chelly is in a grove of Cottonwood trees. A nice campground and there is no charge for camping but there are no showers. The Thunderbird Lodge runs $100+ per night. OUCH!
Canyon de Chelly to Mesa Verde is 150 miles via Hwys 191 and 160. The campground in Mesa Verde is large and very nice. There are showers nearby at the store. I highly recommend staying in the park. I would spend 2 or 3 nights so you can fit in the 3 guide tours by the ranger. They charge a couple of dollars per person for the tours. You can not see Long House, Cliff House or Balcony House without going on a ranger guided tour, so it's well worth the small price.
From Mesa Verde to Needles in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park is 120 miles via Hwys 160, 666, 191 & 211. You will either want to get a room in Monticello or camp at the Squaw Flat campground in Canyonlands. The campground is small but in a scenic setting and some campsites have big redrock boulders. The campground can fill up early in the day. There is another campground near Newspaper Rock State Historical Park. There is a big pannel of petroglyphs here so please make sure you stop either coming or going to the Needles District.
From Canyonlands to Capitol Reef is 250 miles via hwy 211, 191, 95, & Hwy 24. On Hwy 95 you will find Mule Canyon Indian Ruins just along side the road will be a quick stop and Natural Bridges National Monument has some short hikes that are good for a stretch. You will also cross over the Colorado River at Hites Crossing. You can't miss the BRIDGE!
The Fruit campground at Capitol Reef is one of my favorites. It has grassy areas and big shade trees but no showers. I would spend at least one night in the campground and if you could spend one night in a motel in Torrey, Utah. I like the Grand Wash & Capitol Gorge hikes at Captiol Reef.
to be continued.
Utahtea
Capitol Reef to Bryce is 125 miles via Hwy 24 to Torrey and then head south on scenic Hwy 12 to Bryce Canyon. This is a beautiful drive though Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument. This was a fantastic drive long before a section was made a national monument. You are right, there is a lot more to see but it will take a 4 x 4 and many days to explore. Even I haven't done that yet! Plan on time to stop and just enjoy the views. The campgrounds in Bryce fill up early in the day. You can make reservations at the North Campground but they have to be made at least 2 days in advance. You might consider calling when you get close enough to know when you will be there. The campgrounds are in a thick forested area. There are pay showers nearby. If you want to stay at the motel nearby at Ruby's Inn you will also want to make reservations ahead of time.
I'd spend at least 2 nights at Bryce. The Navajo - Queen's garden loop is one of my favorites.
From Bryce to Zion National Park is 86 miles. You will pass though Red Canyon and might plan on some time to stop and take pictures Zion has two really nice campgrounds. You can make reservations at Watchman on the same day if they have sites available. South Campround is first come first serve and can fill up by mid day. Both campgrounds are excellent and have access to the Virgin River. I would spend at least 2 nights or 3 or even 4 if you have that much time left. From Zion to Las Vegas is just a 3 hour drive so you can even do some hiking before you leave for Vegas. The Riverside walk, Weeping Rock, the Emerald Pool hikes are my favorites here.
Other than what I've mentioned, I don't really know about motels.
A great website for more information on almost everything I've talked about is:
http://www.so-utah.com/
Utahtea
Utahtea
Thank to Utahtea! Message us if you ever want info on a New York or Vermont wildernes vacation. We plenty and it's actually quite beautiful up here!
Thanks! Vermont is on our to do list, but it might be a couple of years yet!
Have a great trip!
Utahtea
The last time we were at the north rim, reservations were not possible for the campsites and there were only 82 of them. That was quite a while ago, but I have no reason to think that the situation changed. On the other hand, I believe tha the National Forest you drive through to get to the north rim is in Arizona, and the rule used to be that you could camp anywhere in the forest as long as you were at least 150 yards from a paved road. But you would have to bring your own water. Check it out with the local NF headquarters.
Michael,
Boy do things change when it comes to National Park campgrounds. I thought you had a choice between reservation and first come first serve at the N. Rim, but according to the offical Grand Canyon web site, they are ALL reservations now!
http://www.nps.gov/grca/grandcanyon/north-rim/camping.htm
Utahtea
Freddle,
You mentioned driving through Canyonlands, but that "Arches is too far away". They are right next to each other. From the Arches park entrance to Canyonlands official park entrance is only abut 35 miles.