Southern history- walkable cities

Old Jul 24th, 2016, 12:54 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Southern history- walkable cities

Hi folks! I'm playing with ideas for an east coast road trip. I can figure out some of the northeast destinations, but I know comparatively little about the south.

So: I like food and history and I really enjoy leaving my car parked for a few days. On my list so far: Savannah, Charleston, Asheville, Nashville. Are there cities/towns that I'm missing? Should I scratch any of the above? If it was between Savannah and Charleston, which would you pick?

My initial idea was to do a few places in the South, hit the Great Smoky Mts NP, maybe explore the coast on the way up to Maine and Vermont. But that may be too much. I can probably take 1-2 months, but the problem with that long trip is that it would have to be in the summer. Is there a time span in which both the south and Maine would be pleasant?

I went to Florida this summer, and I can tell I won't do much hiking in the south if every day is 100+ humidity. My other issue is that I have been to Boston and Cape Cod in July in similar weather, in July, several years ago, but all the locals I talked to said it had been record high temps. So, what weather conditions would be more typical? I would really love to visit Vermont and Maine. I'd like to revisit Boston and the Cape. And I'd really like to take in some Civil War history as well. I have not made it Gettysburg yet, and that is certainly on my bucket list. My time frame is May-September, if that matters. It's really hard for me to get time off in early Spring and late Fall. Winter is not my idea of fun for a road trip.

Is it possible (as on the west coast) to escape the heat in the mountains or at swim holes or on the coast? Where on the east coast would you recommend for that? I would be okay with the heat if I can alternate between hot and more pleasant, especially if there is water involved.
Any great local festivals happening during my time frame? Any great bike paths? Any great outdoor theater? When I went on my epic California road trip last year, I mixed it up a lot in terms of landscape and activities and that really kept me going, so I'm trying to do something similar here. I'm thinking a combination of camping and hostels, but as always, am open to any suggestions about truly unusual resorts or hotels.

As usual...answer anything you feel like answering. I'm basically looking for a bit of information before I go looking for guide books. Guide books are not always very useful to me because they don't really give me a clear idea of what towns are genuinely interesting and what ones are overly developed or car reliant. Forums- especially this one- usually give me a much better/fuller picture.

Thanks for any information you can give me
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2016, 04:53 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I consider Charleston to be the most walkable and most "European" city in the US in that way. It is getting to the edge in a way, but still so charmin.
Gretchen is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2016, 05:32 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh, thanks, Gretchen. Good to know. I've heard so many contradicting things about Charleston but it's been on my list for years. How's the food scene? What are your favorite attractions?
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2016, 05:44 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Am heading on a road trip in much the same direction in mid-September (New Orleans - Savannah - Charleston - Ashville - Washington DC), so will keep an eye out for responses.
scdreamer is offline  
Old Jul 24th, 2016, 06:53 PM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Both Charleston and Savannah are easily walkable, though there are a few outlying attractions in both where a car is useful. New Orleans is also very walkable and more far-flung areas are easily accessed via streetcar or bus. The attractions in Jackson, MS are close by each other. Little Rock is reasonably walkable and most of the attractions are near each other. Parts of Nashville are walkable, but you'll need to take buses or a car for other areas of it; it's also fairly hilly. Atlanta can be seen without a car, though it's extremely hilly, attractions tend to be spread out, and you'll need to take MARTA and buses a good bit. If you stick to the Civil Rights District and the Art Museum, Birmingham could be considered walkable.
bachslunch is offline  
Old Jul 25th, 2016, 03:04 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Food in Charleston!! Really!! Do a search of some threads here--too much to list.
What part of the country are you coming from?
Gretchen is offline  
Old Jul 25th, 2016, 09:29 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You could do many of the usual tourist stops in Nashville without a car, if you stay downtown (though downtown hotels are ridiculously expensive right now - often more than Manhattan, on average). But if you stay outside downtown, and/or want to eat at the best restaurants and see some of the attractions outside downtown, you'll either need your car or to use the (limited) bus system or Uber. So, depends on what your interests and budget are.

Is there a time span in which both the south and Maine would be pleasant?

You might try mid- to late May/early June to start in the South and make your way north. But the mountains will be better, in terms of heat and humidity, at any point than somewhere like Charleston or Nashville. The Smokies won't be anything like Florida in the summer, is what I'm saying.

Avoid the second weekend of June in the Nashville area; that's when Bonnaroo and the CMA Fest are. Downtown Nashville will be crazy due to CMA Fest; of lesser, but still possible, concern is that traffic between Atlanta and Nashville will be crazy due to Bonnaroo.

If I had to pick between Savannah and Charleston, I'd pick Charleston, but they're certainly both worth your time.
jent103 is offline  
Old Jul 25th, 2016, 12:14 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The cuisine in the Low Country cities of Savannah and Charleston is uniquely flavourful and delicious --you're in for a real treat. I'd pick Charleston (for the water views and Fort Sumter) over Savannah if told I could only see one although in some ways I preferred Savannah (loved the squares of Savannah). So I agree with jent, better to do both if you can.

The only other place in the general area that I've been which fits the plan of park & then walk & soak in the history for a few days is Saint Augustine FL. Will be hot although beaches are close at hand. Its vastly different history from other east coast locales I found gave me a fuller picture of the early days of the USA. Beaufort between Savannah & Charleston would make for a lovely lunch stop too.

Have a great trip!Daniel
Daniel_Williams is offline  
Old Jul 25th, 2016, 07:54 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks! If I do the trip as it is, I'm not going as far south as New Orleans, but I'll add St Augustine to my bucket list.

Fodors is often strangely therapeutic. Once I write down long posts like this, I start to get a much better idea of the shape trip will take, and I think this is definitely going to be a New England adventure I'll save NO and the rest of the south for a cooler time of year.
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Jul 26th, 2016, 02:39 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 23,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
When you do your southern trip, add Beaufort, SC. Small, authentic and beautiful little city. Go the beginning of the week when Marines are not completing training at Parris Island - it is quieter.

Now - the New England part. The middle 2 weeks of July are traditionally the hottest in Boston area. By 2nd week in August it gets a lot cooler. You say you have 2 months between May-Sept, so pick north/south route based on when you actually start.

So as a general framework - I would start in Bar Harbor/Acadia National Park at the hottest time (or depending on when you are starting - start in June south and work north). Plenty of hiking, biking and natural beauty. If you have time you could add Nova Scotia or PEI.

Work down thru Maine towards Portland. You can fill out that itinerary with plenty of nice coastal towns. After Portland, turn right and head thru NH and VT - towards Montpelier or even Burlington. Nice mountains, scenery and cute towns. Head south through VT towards Brattelboro and into western MA/Berkshires. Tanglewood and Jacobs Pillow provide music and theatre. Head east towards Boston and then Cape Cod, which you say you wish to re-evisit.

All of New England has fairs and festivals in the summer and early fall, since the weather is so dreadful the rest of the year.

If you have more time after this, since you mention Gettysburg, it is a day's drive there.

Just a rough framework - if it makes sense, details could be filled in.
gail is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 09:51 AM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 292
Received 4 Likes on 1 Post
OK, so I'm at my office on a Saturday, and I really should be working, but you helped me out on my plans for my upcoming trip to the Pacific Northwest, so I can't resist doing the same for you -- even if it is at least a year away.

Let me start with the South, for whenever you're able to make that trip. It is true that at the height of the summer, the southern coastal areas, in particular, are anything but comfortable. The Southern coast is glorious from March through maybe late May, and then again from early September certainly through the end of October. But it can be very hot and buggy in between. So you should probably try and go to the south in May or September, if possible, or visit it in smaller chunks during the spring or autumn.

Click on the link below and scroll about halfway down, and you'll find a detailed discussion I previously posted of what to see and do along the SE coast between St. Augustine and Charleston:

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...needs-help.cfm

Also, here's a photo album I recently posted on Flickr of the Ashley River road plantations near Charleston:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/276859...57670487620200

In my book, the only reasonable response to the question, "Should I choose to see Savannah or Charleston?" is "No. You should see both." Both would be on any reasonable person's list of the 10 most outstanding smaller or mid-sized American cities. They might well both be in the top 5. Yes, they have a lot of similarities, but these are good similarities that aren't in huge supply anywhere else -- beautifully preserved 19th century buildings; a lengthy and vivid history; spectacular scenery and vegetation; and lots of places of interest around them. Charleston has some of the best food in the country because it's chock full of cooking schools, but Savannah has many fine restaurants as well. Both are full of wonderful, interesting accomodations.

Savannah's squares (20 survive from the colonial plan) have no equal anywhere in the U.S., and the Savanannah College of Art & Design (SCAD) gives it an artsy vibe and helps make that city less tradition-bound than Charleston. For me, Savannah's live oaks beat Charleston's palmettos, and the Georgia coast is overall more interesting than South Carolina's. (I do heartily endorse Beaufort. That's another great walking town.)

Also, if you're going to be in Georgia, and you like beautifully-preserved historic architecture, don't miss Madison, an hour east of Atlanta, just off I-20 (albeit a drive of several hours from the coast). It is, no question, one of the most beautiful small towns (maybe even the most beautiful) in America. Here's another photo album I put up on Flickr after a visit there last year:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/276859...57665708064452

Again, it is particularly glorious in the spring. Southerners are great gardeners. (That would be true of Charleston as well, BTW.)

If you're exploring the Smoky Mountain area at some point, you might want to add Chattanooga to your list, and perhaps Huntsville, Alabama for its space program installations. Chattanooga played a pivotal part in the American Civil War. The battlefields immediately around the city (Missionary Ridge, Lookout Mountain) are geographically compressed, but quite memorable. Chickamauga National Military Park, not far to the south, is one of earliest and therefore best preserved battlefields anywhere -- virtually the entire battle area was saved.

Further up the coast, Antietam and Gettsburg fall into the same category as Charleston and Savannah: i.e., don't try to choose; go see both. To begin with, they're hardly an hour apart. Both were incredibly important to the course of the war, albeit for different reasons. When you know what happened there, standing at the East Cornfield or the Bloody Lane at Antietam, or Cemetery Ridge or Little Round Top at Gettysburg, is incredibly moving. Burnside's Bridge at Antietam is one of the loveliest spots in Maryland, or on any Civil War battlefield. There are great books about each battle. And Harper's Ferry -- a don't miss place for any lover of history or scenery -- is barely ten miles from the lower end of Antietam Park. The view from Maryland Heights of the meeting place of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers is one of the most memorable views in the eastern U.S.

That's all I'll say for now. More later, including thoughts about New England and guidebook and other recommendations.
jeffergray is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 10:42 AM
  #12  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
WOW, jeffergray! I'm thankful I helped with your PNW trip. That is very descriptive and useful. I actually had no idea Harper's Ferry was so close to Antietam Park. And you've certainly sold me on seeing both Savannah and Charleston. Definitely looking forward to your NE recommendations
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 12:17 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
. I've heard so many contradicting things about Charleston

I would REALLY be interested in what you have heard about Charleston that is "contradicting". LOL
Gretchen is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 01:29 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Gretchen- I am pretty sure it was on one of the forums but I cannot remember which one (until I actually joined Fodors I lurked quite a bit). Someone said something along the lines of Charleston being fake and the beach being dirty. The second bit is usually subjective- the first concerned me because I have visited places that were probably wonderful 20 years ago but have been "preserved" beyond the point of recognition by now. My hometown is somewhat like that these days!

But as you know, there are always clashing personalities or points of view on forums like this. It could very well have been a "train wreck thread", which seems to happen less here more recently.
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 02:23 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I also appreciate your recent advice for a trip I'm taking so I'll add my $.02 about your trip. I totally agree to see both Charleston & Savannah. I don't know about your lodging as far as hostels or camping, but when I was there, I stayed downtown in B&Bs, parked the car for 3 days and didn't move it until I left. I walked miles everyday exploring myself and also took several walking tours in each town to get more info such as Civil War Tour along the Charleston Battery and tour of the Savannah Squares. Each town also have tour trolleys which give history talks w/ on/off options; at least when I was there. Also, in Charleston, take the trip to Ft. Sumter where the Civil War began.

I was just in St. Augustine in June this yr and spent an entire day exploring by foot. Yes, the south is hot, but do most of your walking earlier & later in the day and take a tour or visit museums in hottest part of day. Of course, I was returning to AC to sleep, and that may not be an option for you so no advice there.

As a huge Civil War hx fan myself (My great grandfather fought, wounded, and captured at Gettysburg), I would also suggest parts of VA along w/ a 2nd vote for Harper's Ferry/Antietam & Gettysburg, PA. If you want to really explore the Civil War, there is lots of history around Fredericksburg and Richmond/Petersburg. I agree great CW hx in AL and GA and TN, but you will have to decide whether to stick strictly to east coast or wander a bit.

I love Smoky Mt. NP, but I hope you realize it's the MOST visited NP in the system...I know, surprise to me too! It's worth the trip, but you have to fight the crowds in some parts..do not go on wkends! If you are into camping, you could pick up the Appalachian Trail here and spend some time hiking and enjoying the mts.

After all the heat of the south, your idea of heading north sounds refreshing. I love Maine...Camden, Acadia NP, lots of other fun places and then catching the fast ferry to Nova Scotia.

Good luck!
Momof3boys is offline  
Old Aug 6th, 2016, 02:52 PM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I actually did not know that about the Smoky Mt. NP! Would not have expected it at all- thought the Smokies would be a good place to catch my breath before heading to the craziness that is Williamsburg. Thanks, I'll aim for weekdays. I was pretty stunned by the crowds at Yosemite when I visited last year.

Decisions are so difficult. I thought I had a trip outlined but now you folks are making the south sound all the more tempting.
marvelousmouse is offline  
Old Aug 7th, 2016, 03:16 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, GSMNP IS most visited but it doesn't mean you shouldn't do it.
As for Charleston, if you believe ONE post like that then IMO you do yourself a disfavor. Perhaps it was colored by your opinion of your own town. Too bad.
Charleston proper does not have a beach--it is on a river estuary. Maybe the ill informed person thought the river was the ocean.
Charleston was actually saved from the wrecking ball within the past 50 years by its mayor, Joe Riley, who stopped the urban renewal that would have taken history away. Yes, the old market in mid charleston is a commercial wart, IMO. BUt Charleston has been enhanced by its preservation. As I said in my first post, it is perhaps our most European city--walkable, charming, historic with incredibly wonderful food that is native to the area.
Gretchen is offline  
Old Aug 7th, 2016, 05:32 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bookmarking...great info, everyone.
jayne1973 is offline  
Old Aug 7th, 2016, 09:29 AM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Don't forget to see the Hunley in Charleston--a Civil War submersible that they have found and preserved.
Gretchen is offline  
Old Aug 23rd, 2016, 09:18 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 292
Received 4 Likes on 1 Post
I strongly endorse Gretchen's comment about seeing the CSS Hunley while you're in Charleston (its museum is actually a few miles up the road in North Charleston). Along with the USS Monitor's turret (which, BTW, I think is in a maritime museum in Newport News, not far from Williamsburg), it is one of the two most important relics of the naval side of the Civil War. Both represented astonishing technological and engineering advances that shaped naval combat for a full century to come. And the story of the Hunley, its successive doomed crews, and the triumph and tragedy of its final mission is one of the most extraordinary stories to come out of the Civil War (or any war, really). Its recovery is also one of the most important archaeological finds of the twentieth century.

P.S. I had wondered about the origin of your Fodor's moniker, Marvelous Mouse. Suffice to say that I have now been to Pioneer Square in Seattle, and you are BUSTED!
jeffergray is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -